adding water ballast to sailboat

Yachting World

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Pip Hare’s sailing masterclass: How to make the most of a water ballast system

• May 21, 2020

Water ballast is no longer the preserve of ocean racing yachts, it can now be found on performance cruisers and smaller racing boats. Pip Hare shares her top tips for using it

The JPK 1030 features transfer pipe and inspection hatches. Photo: Jean-Marie Lio

No two water ballast systems seem to be the same, but the principles for use and troubleshooting remain the same. Here are some guidelines for success.

Filling ballast

The ballast is filled via a scoop in the bottom of the boat, which is like a ‘reverse snorkel’. The snorkel is pushed down with the hole forward to fill the ballast, when the hole is facing aft the tanks can empty. To seal the system the scoop is retracted into the hull, leaving a flush finish.

A single scoop will be situated on the centreline, while twin scoops are placed outboard, so the leeward scoop must always be used for filling. When the scoop is pushed down, providing water is moving over the hull it will start to fire water into the boat. Filling can be achieved through continued forwards motion although this can take a lot of time so a pump is often used to accelerate the process.

Before pushing down the scoop, ensure all valves are in the correct position – this takes concentration if you’re not familiar with the system. Check:

• Valve to leeward scoop is open.
• Valves to leeward tanks are shut.
• Valves to water pump is open.
• Valves out of water pump are either directing towards windward tanks, or open on windward and closed on the leeward side.
• Correct windward tanks are selected – you can fill multiple tanks at the same time.

Once the valves are in the correct position push the scoop down then turn on the ballast pump. Once water is overflowing from the breathers on deck, first close the tank valves, then shut off the pump and retract the scoop.

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If you’ve been running the ballast pump but the tanks are not filling then look for air in the system. Airlocks are a common problem with a pump and can be tricky to remove. Start by identifying where the lock is; transparent pipes are helpful. Then your objective is to flood that part of the pipe.

Every system will be different but things that can work include turning off the pump, rotating the scoop aft to empty for a few seconds, then face it forward and turn on the pump again. Or try changing the angle of heel to flatten the boat momentarily.

If all else fails, changing tack but leaving whatever ballast you have on the same side might shift the air. Tack, then tack back and try the whole process again.

Transferring ballast

Any manoeuvre involving transferring ballast is going to take time and it’s important to factor this into your planning and make sure you have enough ‘runway’ to complete your manoeuvre. For example, if you know it takes 140 seconds to drop the ballast and you’re sailing upwind at eight knots you’ll need one third of a mile to complete the tack from the moment you open the valves.

Use the time it takes for the ballast to transfer to get set up on deck for tacking and to move the stack to leeward (if allowed). Remember the trim of the boat will change while the ballast drops, so ease the mainsheet or traveller to control excess heel and feather the boat into gusts.

The process for transferring ballast is simple:

• Check scoops are retracted and valves closed.
• Open leeward tank valves, open transfer valves, open windward tank valves.
• Once all water has transferred, close all valves.

The most common mistake is to close the valves and tack before all the water has run down. Sight glasses can help but they often don’t go to the bottom of the tank. Try putting your ear close to the windward transfer pipe, you should be able to hear water running through; if there’s no sound then the tank is empty. Water will rush out of the deck breathers on the leeward side but this may happen before the windward side is empty.

Always check the leeward side after a manoeuvre and empty out any water that’s left. Expect to top up the windward side over time.

Deck-mounted control rods can open or close the ballast transfer valves. Photo: Jean-Marie Liot

Dropping the ballast

There are no tricks to emptying the ballast, other than adding a little extra heel towards the end of the process. The routine is:

• Push the leeward scoop down and turn it to face aft.
• Double check leeward tank valves are closed.
• Select the tank you wish to empty and open all valves between that tank and the scoop.
• When finished close the valves and retract the scoop.

Management and maintenance tips

• Put luminous tape on the scoops so you can easily see which way they’re facing in the dark.
• Check inspection hatches and seals regularly. These hatches are a constant pain and expect them to leak. If going on a longer voyage, then take plenty of spare hatch seals and a couple of spare hatches.
• Try very hard not to step on ballast pipes or valves.
• Check both tank levels regularly. It’s not uncommon to lose water from the windward tank or for the leeward tank to start to fill over time.
• Check all valves, particularly gate valves, are closing fully and also check the leeward deck breathers are not letting water into the tanks – which can happen if sailing with the rail constantly underwater or if the breathers are damaged.

First published in the May 2020 edition of Yachting World.

How Does Sailing Ballast Work and Why Do Boats Need It?

What is a sailboat ballast.

Sailboat ballast is a weight carried either in the sailboat keel or hull, typically made of lead, iron, or cement, which acts as a counterweight to the wind's force on the sails' force, providing righting moment by lowering the center of gravity.

Where is the ballast in a sailboat?

Ballast can be carried either in the sailboat keel (keel ballast) or hull (internal ballast). Generally, the majority of the ballast will be located in the keel, since the lower the ballast, the more righting moment it provides.

Where do you put ballast on a boat?

You want to put your ballast in the lowest point of the boat. Typically, ballast is stored in the bilge, where it will have the most effect.

Why do boats need ballast?

Boats use ballast to offset their hull's inherent buoyancy, which creates a tendency to roll. Ballast increases the displacement by lowering the center of gravity, increasing the amount of wetted surface. This improves stability and reduces roll or heel.

How does a boat ballast work?

Boat ballast is a weight that is typically added to the bilge or the keel of a ship in order to increase the weight while simultaneously lowering the center of gravity of the boat. This increases the displacement and the wetted surface, which in turn increases stability and reduces roll.

Sailboat ballast material

Sailboat ballast is usually made from lead or iron , but sometimes cement or water is used as well. Lead is the most expensive ballast material but also has the highest specific weight, reducing the volume.

How much ballast does a boat need?

The amount of ballast needed for a boat depends on several factors, such as displacement, hull design, and boat type. The desired amount is generally expressed as a percentage, also called the ballast displacement ratio . In sailboats, the average ballast ratio is 35-40%, with weights ranging anywhere from 200 to 12,000 pounds .

What did sailing ships use for ballast?

Wooden ships typically used ballast stones, but sometimes extra anchors and cannons were used. Depending on the weight of the cargo weight and crew, ballast stones were added or removed to change the ship's weight accordingly. Ballast was kept in the bilge to lower the center of gravity.

Does sailboat displacement include ballast?

Displacement is always measured including ballast, since adding ballast increases the total displacement.

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You may also like, sailboat keel types: illustrated guide (bilge, fin, full).

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Adding Ballast

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When the ballast was poured into our full keel back in 1978 they didn't get it quite right. She sits about 2 inches higher at the stern than the bow. We're in the process of replacing our engine with one that is around 100 pounds lighter, which might make the problem even more noticable. While the engine is out I'm considering adding some ballast to the very stern end of our bilge. Has anyone done anything like this? Any suggestions on how to figure out the correct amount? I would imagine I would fiberglass in some lead pigs? Any advice appreciated. Thanks.  

Is the boat actually loaded with your gear yet? You may want to hold off a bit before adding ballast, because things like BBQ grills, full fuel tanks, and otherwise loading the boat - if you load center and aft, will definitely bring your stern lower. When I was cruising on my C-27 - the stern dropped a inch or 2 - and it didn't really take that much...If it is really a concern use something you can remove like sand bags or water jugs... The stern really doesn't have to be weighted down too much to get it to squat right..but fiberglassing in lead - you may regret it later... some re-positioning of gear / storage items may make the difference you are looking for...  

Year, make, and model?  

Also, how many crew do you typically sail with? If you usually have 2-3 or more adults in the cockpit, that will often balance it out pretty well on a small-medium size boat. If you are talking about a 40+ footer then crew weight might not be as noticeable. Another question, are you carrying a large inventory of anchor chain in the bow?  

It's a '78 Pacific Seacraft Mariah 31. I'm told it was the very last Mark I, but had the ballast poured the way they did it for the Mark II, which had some slight design changes. I'll certainly see what I can do about packing some gear a little differently. Using something removable is also a great idea, remove the possibility of regrets. We don't have an enormous amount of chain, but we do have 2 anchors right out on the bowsprit (35lbs and 20lbs). We only have the 2 of us as crew. Thanks for the replies.  

Sorry, Dhornsey, I'd forgotten that you have a Mariah. I wouldn't call that an inordinate amount of anchor weight on the rollers (we have a 35 lb and 25 lb anchor on ours.) And if you aren't carrying all chain rodes, then anchor and chain weight wouldn't be contributing much to the bow-down trim. And two average adults in the cockpit probably won't correct it either. Interesting about the ballast change between the Mark 1 and 2 Mariah. Good to know. Do you know whether your boat was factory finished or built out by an owner from a hull/deck kit? Sometime in the past year or so, there was an interesting article in Good Old Boat magazine by Jerry Montgomery, in which he described ballast modifications that he had to make on one of his Montgomery pocket cruisers. He worked with the designer, Lyle Hess, to correct the problem, but the gist was that very small amounts of ballast can make a big difference in trim and righting moment. The advice above about loading the boat first, with heavier gear further aft, is good. If you decide to add ballast, add it gradually. Another variable is tankage -- maybe you could use-up your forward water tank first, or if you only have one consider adding a second water tank somewhere aft so that you get something useful for the extra weight being hauled around?  

The boat was factory finished, with the exception of the mast & rigging. I'll try to track down that good old boat article, thanks for the suggestion.  

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MODERN SAILBOAT DESIGN: Ballast Stability

At the end of our last discussion on stability we mentioned the old mono v. multihull worst-case-scenario debate re sinking to the bottom (monohull) versus capsizing on the surface (multihull). This time we’ll focus on that which drags the poor monohull to the bottom, which is, of course, its ballast. Ballast, ironically, is added to a boat to help it stay upright. As with form stability, the principle is obvious: an object is harder to up-end if a heavy weight is placed at the bottom of it. Witness the iconic inflatable punching clown. With the majority of its weight concentrated at floor level, the clown pops back upright every time you knock it down. This, of course, is exactly what you want your sailboat to do.

 Besides helping boats sink, ballast is counterproductive in another way: it makes a boat heavier and increases displacement , thus increasing resistance and decreasing speed. But this sad fact can be mitigated. The amount of ballast needed to counteract the capsizing forces of wind and wave decreases dramatically the lower it is placed in the boat. Unlike the clown, which must always have its feet on the ground, the bottom of a sailboat can reach as far down as there is water for it to float in. This is one reason why racing sailors always prefer very deep keels and why gunkholing cruisers must agonize over the question of draft. On a stock 40-foot boat, for example, the weight differential between a shoal-draft cruising keel and a deep racing keel installed on otherwise identical hulls can amount to 20% or more of the boat’s total displacement. For many, this will seem a heavy price to pay (pun intended) for shoal-draft capability.

Just as weight down low increases stability, weight up high–generally speaking, just about any weight added at or above deck level–decreases it. It is important, therefore, not to think of ballast as a discrete feature. Think instead of a boat’s total weight and how it is distributed. For example, adding one pound of weight at the masthead of a 35- to 40-foot cruising boat effectively subtracts 7 to 10 pounds of ballast from its keel. Conversely, subtracting that pound adds 7 to 10 pounds of ballast. The effects are less dramatic but are still significant when weight is redistributed closer to the boat’s center of gravity.

Aboard most cruising boats, the center of gravity is more or less about 6 inches above the waterline. Any weight subtracted above or added below this point increases the boat’s effective ballast and lowers its center of gravity. Such increases are multiplied according to the weight’s vertical distance from the center of gravity. For example, subtracting 1 pound of weight 35 feet above the center of gravity is equivalent to subtracting 35 pounds 1 foot above it. Adding 1 pound 7 feet below the center gravity is equivalent to adding 7 pounds 1 foot below it.

The bottom line (another intended pun) is that you should always strive to keep weight as low as possible, whether or not it is officially designated “ballast.” This is why racing sailors always embrace technology that dramatically reduces weight aloft, such as carbon-fiber spars and fiber rigging. It is also why cruising sailors should be more circumspect when adding weight to their rigs. Roller-furling headsails, in-mast furling mainsails, extra-heavy wire rigging, mast-mounted radomes, mast steps, and other such gear may improve a boat’s “cruise-ability,” but their cumulative weight also significantly decreases its stability.

Cruisers often store too much gear on deck, which raises a boat’s center of gravity and can make it considerably less stable

Boats that rely primarily on ballast for stability tend to be narrow and deep. In the past they also often had a great deal of deadrise in their hulls, though this is less true now. Narrow, heavily ballasted boats, particularly those with lots of deadrise, usually are tender and quickly heel to significant angles when pressed by even a moderate breeze. But this does not make them “unstable.” When pressed to extremes, they are usually more stable than stiffer boats that rely more on form stability to stay upright. Unlike form stability, which increases a boat’s initial stability, ballast stability increases what is known as ultimate or reserve stability, which is what helps a boat recover and roll upright again–just like the punching clown–after it has been knocked flat or even capsized.

Tender boats, like stiff boats, can be both comfortable and uncomfortable. Their tendency to heel easily often makes inexperienced crew feel nervous and uncomfortable, and even for experienced sailors, working at severe angles for extended periods of time can be taxing. But when the sea gets rough a tender boat normally has a smoother motion than a stiff one. It rolls to greater angles, but does so more slowly, without the vicious snapping and jerking that characterizes the motion of a stiff boat. Sailing to weather in a strong breeze a tender boat’s lee rail will be buried much of the time, and the crew on deck will get wet, but the boat will not pound as violently as a stiff boat.

For cruising sailors, the question of which sort of stability to favor when selecting a boat is a serious one. Many designs available today, of course, are relatively moderate and compromise between extremes. As a general rule, however, popular modern designs tend to be relatively light and wide with shallow bilges, and thus are more stiff than tender. Older designs from the CCA era are usually heavier, narrower, and more tender. As a general rule, coastal cruisers who expect to sail primarily in moderate conditions can, if they like, favor faster, more modern, stiffer designs. Bluewater cruisers who are more likely to encounter extreme conditions should consider whether they’d be better off in slower, more tender design with more ultimate stability.

Shifting Ballast

The most effective way to increase initial stability aboard a boat that may or may not have good form stability is to shift significant amounts of ballast to windward while sailing. This creates a lever arm that operates at a right angle to the sail plan, which increases the ballast’s effectiveness and allows a boat to carry significantly more sail.

Crews on modern planing skiffs like this 49er have to stay well outboard to keep their boats upright

This principle is seen at work on any unballasted sailing dinghy that depends primarily on crew weight to stay upright. To prevent the boat from toppling over to leeward, the crew hikes out on the windward rail. The further to windward they can get, the more sail the boat can carry, as the crew’s effective weight is increased by the longer lever arm. On modern dinghies you often see devices such as trapezes and/or hiking rails that allow crew to get as far outboard as possible. On traditional boats like Bahamian sloops and Chesapeake log canoes the crew sits out over the water on long planks that protrude from the windward rail. When the boat is tacked, the planks are moved from one side to the other, and there is a mad scramble as the crew repositions itself.

A traditional Chesapeake log canoe in action

These days ballast on larger boats can be shifted in more sophisticated ways. In one method known as water ballasting, large quantities of seawater are moved from one side of the boat to the other as it tacks. The water is shifted between dedicated tanks on the outboard edges of the hull’s interior either with a pump or by letting the water run downhill from the windward tank to the leeward tank before tacking. Water ballast augments a conventional ballast keel and is released overboard when it is not needed.

Another way to shift ballast is with a canting keel. These are struts with heavy ballast bulbs that can swing from a vertical position under a boat’s hull out to angles of up to 55 degrees. Large canting-keel monohulls 70 feet and longer have hit top speeds in excess of 30 knots, which is comparable to speeds routinely achieved by large racing catamarans. Several canting-keel boats have sailed 600 miles or more in open water in a single 24-hour period, maintaining average speeds of over 20 knots. What makes canting keels so powerful is that they shift all of a boat’s ballast to windward while keeping it well below the hull, thus greatly increasing its effectiveness. A keel capable of canting 55 degrees requires 25 to more than 60 percent less ballast than a fixed keel to support the same hull and sail plan. The result is a much lighter boat with a much higher SA/D ratio and a much lower D/L ratio.

A modern raceboat with its ballast keel canted to windward. The daggerboards rather than the keel create hydrodynamic lift

Canting keels do have their complications. When canted well to windward a keel ceases to function as a hydrodynamic foil and other foils must therefore take its place. These can be significantly smaller than the keel itself, due to the high speeds at which the boat travels. Often these auxiliary foils are daggerboards in the boat’s midsection, one on each side, with only the leeward board deployed at any given time. Or there may be a second rudder forward of the keel, often called a canard, that works in conjunction with the primary rudder to both resist leeway and steer the boat. This configuration, referred to as the Canting Ballast Twin Foil (CBTF) system , is a patented technology seen on large maxi yachts such as Roy Disney’s last Pyewacket . Centerboards and centerline daggerboards have also been used.

Another major complication is the mechanism that swings the keel back and forth. This mechanism is somewhat simpler on smaller boats, as the top of the keel, which protrudes several feet into the boat’s interior, can be pulled to either side with nothing more than a hefty tackle. On larger boats, however, the weight that must be shifted can be enormous and mechanical assistance is required. This is normally provided by large hydraulic rams and pumps powered by the boat’s main engine or a donkey engine, which must be running when the keel is moving. In all cases the pivoting keel joint in the bottom of the hull must be properly sealed and protected against flooding. Not surprisingly, dramatic failures are fairly routine.

Canting keels have also been installed on a few high-end custom performance cruisers. Examples include the Baltic 78, certain luxury performance cruisers built by Wally Yachts, and a sleek 65-foot one-off boat, Spirit of Adventure , designed by Owen Clarke Design of New Zealand for a private client. The canting keel on Spirit is also a lifting keel, as is the canting keel on the 100-foot super-maxi Maximus , a no-holds-barred racer launched back in 2005. It is unlikely however that canting keels, lifting or otherwise, will trickle down any further into the cruising-boat market. The systems are just too complex, too expensive, and potentially unreliable.

The keel on this custom cruiser, Spirit of Adventure , designed by Owen Clarke Design, both cants side-to-side and shifts up and down (Photo by Paul Todd)

Water-ballast systems, on the other hand, have proven more popular. Indeed, several small trailerable cruising boats use static water ballast as their primary ballast. On these boats the ballast tanks are low in the bilge on the boat’s centerline and are filled after the boat is launched to increase its displacement and stability. When the boat is hauled from the water, the ballast tank is emptied to reduce trailering weight. Since the ballast is never shifted, these are more appropriately termed static variable-ballast systems. Dynamic shifting-ballast systems are less common but have appeared on several performance cruising designs. These include at least one production boat, Hunter Marine’s old HC-50, which was designed to be sailed by a couple. On some other production performance cruisers it is also possible to shift water stored in the freshwater tanks from one side of the boat to the other.

Like canting keels, water-ballast systems make a boat much more complex. The ballast tanks take up interior space that could otherwise be devoted to accommodations, and they require a great deal of extra plumbing for picking up and discharging raw water and for moving it from tank to tank. Because water is not particularly dense, because ballast tanks must be located inside rather than below the main hull, and because the water ballast represents only a portion of the boat’s total ballast, water-ballast systems also do not have nearly as dramatic an effect upon performance as do canting keels.

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These are useful advice. Thanks! For quality and affordable boat ballast check out http://www.waterskiersworld.com/category-list/accessories/boat-ballast-fat-sacs-pumps.html

Found this looking for research on a short high-school presentation on how boats work. Made my head hurt with funky words. 10/10

Very helpful in analyzing where to put 500 pounds of batteries for a conversion from diesel to electronic propulsion.

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  All About Water Ballast Systems Advantages of Existing Internal Water Ballast Systems How Water Ballast Increases Boat Speed and Comfort Advantages of New External Water Ballast System Stability and What Hangs In The Balance

Advantages of Existing Internal Water Ballast Systems

M any new high performance racing and cruising sailboats are being manufactured with built-in rigid internal water ballast tanks to improve their upwind performance, without sacrificing downwind performance.  This is accomplished by filling the windward ballast tank with water while going upwind to stabilize the sailboat, and emptying the ballast when going downwind for less weight.  Reducing the angle of heel not only increases performance but also increases comfort and safety similar to sailing down wind.  The cockpit is much more comfortable and you have a safer working platform, especially on the fore deck.  Below deck tasks such as cooking, using the head or sleeping (in improper sea berths) are made safer and easier in heavy seas.  Even when just day sailing with friends and family it becomes more comfortable -- everyone likes a nearly level boat!  Reefing is also minimized by stabilizing the boat in moderate conditions and not having to depower the sails.

Examples of  internal water ballast manufactured into high performance cruising sailboats can be found in Roger Martin's 40 foot Gray Wolf, with the following advantages:

" with winds westerly at 15 to 18 knots.  Our initial angle of heel, close reaching with full main and 120 percent jib, was near 10 degrees.  This all but disappeared after Rodger scurried below and switched on a Rule 3600 pump to fill the windward ballast tank.  Our speed subsequently increased by a knot, to say nothing of our comfort level."  "Each port and starboard tank holds 262 gallons (2,240 pounds). "       CRUISING WORLD magazine June 1997, page 91.

and also, in Steve Dashew's 80 foot Beowulf:

"Beowulf's 7,500 pounds of saltwater ballast, stored in side tanks, reduces heeling by 8 degrees and adds several knots to boat speed".     CRUISING WORLD magazine August 1998, page 36.

How Water Ballast Increases Boat Speed and Comfort Water ballast works by reducing the angle of heel on a sailboat.  This makes the keel, rudder and sails increase their projected profile and lift in the horizontal direction (less downward sail pressure), generating greater driving and tracking forces that make the sailboat go faster.  It also reduces leeway (side slipping) and the resulting (hull form) drag.  Although there is additional drag from the hull with the added ballast weight, it is minimal when compared to the gain (also in water line length).

Modern sailboats that are light and have flat under bodies gain the most performance from water ballast since they are capable of going beyond their normal hull speed when planing.  Speeds beyond hull speed are generally achieved going down wind in brisk conditions having a good driving force, when the sailboat's bottom sections are kept flat on the water for planing.  The driving forces on a reach or upwind are not as direct, making the sailboat heel, no longer presenting the flat bottom sections of the vessel.  Adding water ballast on the windward beam while on a reach reduces the heeling angle, which again presents a flatter bottom for planing and increases the driving forces which make the sailboat go faster.  Heavy displacement sailboats have a substantial gain in performance with water ballasting, although they are limited by their hull speed. Light modern cruising sailboats also tend to have a harsh motion in heavy seas.  This can make it uncomfortable and difficult to perform normal tasks on ocean passages, with excessive heeling only aggravating the situation.  By adding additional water ballast weight on the windward beam, rolling and tossing are dampened and more velocity is sustained through oncoming waves.  With slower and less internal movement, as well as angle of heel, one has a more comfortable and safer sea kindly ride in heavy seas, with less time spent at sea with the added speed.  Also, water ballast can be placed on both sides of the sailboat to reduce rolling at anchorage or on one side to remove the vessel from a grounding. Advantages of New External Water Ballast System The new external water ballast system attaches to most sailboats in seconds without alterations, and can be moved from one rail to another or from one similar size boat to another.  This system provides all the advantages of internal water ballast for any existing sailboat.  Attempting to add  internal water ballast tanks to an existing boat would require major reconstruction and take up valuable internal space, even when not in use.  External water ballast also provides better performance with the ballast held further outward which has a greater stabilizing force for the same quantity of water.  External water ballast requires no active pumping for the emergency release of water on the leeward side of the boat and is also compliant with the 10 degree (heel) static rule for offshore safety (both sides 2x10°=20°). Disney's water ballast bags. Disney's water ballast bags, Sailing World. Home page for Maxi Marine external water ballast system.

As mentioned earlier, reaching speed is directly related to the heeling angle of a sailboat.  Some expensive high-tech solutions involve lightening the sail rig by the use of  Kevlar ® sails and carbon fiber masts, or use of bulbed keels to lower the center of gravity.  To measure the effect of  weight loss from the rig, project the center of the weight loss straight down from it's location as shown on the diagram to the right.  On the other side of the center of flotation (CF), measure the stabilizing force of the keel or movable ballast, i.e., water ballast, crew, etc..  Removing 200 lbs. from the rig with the boat heeling 15 degrees would have the similar effect of adding 200 lbs. to the keel, or only 100 lbs. on the beam rail.  Adding water ballast or crew on the boat's rail is the least expensive and most dramatic stabilizing force, especially within the optimal heeling/performance range for the modern sailboat.

   © 2013  Maxi Marine, All Rights Reserved.   home

How To Make Your Boat More Stable? (The 4 Best Tips)

Are you looking for ways to make your boat more stable and safe? Whether youre an experienced sailor or a first-time boat owner, there are numerous steps you can take to maximize the stability of your vessel.

In this article, well discuss the four best tips for making your boat more stable, including adjusting weight distribution, utilizing outriggers or stabilizers, adding ballast, and choosing the right boat.

Well also discuss reducing speed, tips for smooth sailing, and how to prevent unnecessary risk.

If youre looking for ways to make your boat more secure and reliable, this article is for you.

Table of Contents

Short Answer

To make your boat more stable, you can add ballast to the bottom of the boat to increase its weight.

You can also make sure the center of gravity is as low as possible by keeping heavy items on the bottom and center of the boat.

Additionally, you can add outriggers or sponsons to the sides of the boat to increase its beam and provide more stability.

Finally, adding floatation devices to the sides of the boat can help keep it stable in rough waters.

Adjusting Weight Distribution

When it comes to increasing the stability of your boat, one of the most effective measures you can take is adjusting the weight distribution.

By ensuring that weight is evenly distributed throughout the vessel, it will be less prone to tipping or rocking when out on the water.

This is especially important when navigating rough or choppy waters.

When adjusting the weight distribution, it is important to take into account the size and shape of your boat.

Smaller and more compact vessels, such as kayaks or canoes, will require a more precise weight distribution than larger boats.

Additionally, the type of material your boat is made from can also affect the weight distribution.

One way to ensure a balanced weight distribution is to make sure that weight is evenly distributed across the boat, including the bow, stern, and sides.

This ensures that the vessel is less likely to rock or tip in different directions.

Additionally, it is important to ensure that heavier items such as fuel tanks, tackle boxes, and fishing equipment are placed in the center of the vessel.

This will help to keep the boat balanced and reduce the risk of tipping.

Finally, it is important to consider the placement of passengers when adjusting the weight distribution.

If the boat is overloaded or has passengers sitting in the wrong areas, this can cause an imbalance and reduce the stability of the vessel.

Ensuring that passengers are seated in the appropriate areas and that the weight is evenly distributed throughout the boat will help to increase stability.

Utilizing Outriggers or Stabilizers

One of the most effective ways to make your boat more stable is to utilize outriggers or stabilizers.

Outriggers are a type of stabilizer that extends from the sides of the boat, providing it with greater stability in choppy waters.

Outriggers are most common on smaller boats, as they dont require a lot of space or weight to install.

Stabilizers, on the other hand, are usually installed on larger boats and create a platform that extends below the boat, providing it with additional stability.

Both outriggers and stabilizers are effective at increasing a boats stability, though they can be expensive to install.

Before investing in either of these, be sure to consider the type of waters youll be navigating and the size of your boat.

Additionally, make sure to check with your local marina to ensure the installation of outriggers or stabilizers is allowed.

Adding Ballast

Adding ballast is an important step in making your boat more stable.

Ballast helps to increase the displacement of your boat, which helps to lower its center of gravity and thus its stability.

This is especially important when sailing in choppy or windy waters, as the added weight helps to keep your boat from rocking and swaying too much.

When adding ballast, it’s important to ensure that you are not adding too much weight.

Balance is key here, as too much ballast can cause your boat to become sluggish and difficult to maneuver.

You should also make sure that the ballast is evenly distributed throughout the boat, as this helps to keep the center of gravity low.

Additionally, adding ballast should always be done with the boat in the water; adding it while out of the water can cause it to sink.

There are several options for adding ballast to your boat.

The most common is the use of water ballast tanks.

These are specially designed tanks that can be filled with water to provide an additional weight.

Another option is to add lead ballast, which is available in various shapes and sizes to fit any boat.

Alternatively, you can also add extra passengers, but this is not recommended as it can cause the boat to become overcrowded.

No matter which ballast option you choose, it’s important to ensure that it is properly secured to the boat.

Additionally, be sure to regularly check the ballast and make sure that it is evenly distributed throughout the boat.

With these simple steps, you can make your boat more stable and enjoy a safe and comfortable ride.

Choosing the Right Boat

When it comes to making your boat more stable, choosing the right boat for the type of waters you are navigating is an important step.

Different types of boats are designed for different waters and conditions, so you should always take the time to research the ideal boat for the environment youll be in.

A boat designed for calm lakes or rivers might not be ideal for navigating choppy seas, for example.

In addition, the size of the boat can also affect its stability.

A smaller boat may be less stable than a larger one, so if youre looking to navigate rougher waters, it might be best to look into a larger boat.

You should also take into account the size of your crew and cargo, as a full boat may be more susceptible to rocking and swaying, while an empty boat may be more prone to capsizing.

When it comes to the type of boat, the hull design can play a major role in stability.

A deep-vee or round-bottom hull, for example, will provide more stability than a flat-bottom hull in choppy waters.

Additionally, wider boats are generally more stable than narrow boats, as they have a larger surface area for the waves to push against.

Finally, the type of propulsion system you choose can also affect the stability of your boat.

Inboard engines generally provide more stability than outboard engines, as they sit lower in the water and provide more weight.

Additionally, the bow of a boat with an inboard engine is typically higher than a boat with an outboard engine, which helps to reduce the risk of swamping.

In summary, there are a few key factors to consider when choosing the right boat for maximum stability.

Research the ideal boat for the type of waters you are navigating, take into account the size of your crew and cargo, and consider the hull design and propulsion system of the boat.

By taking these steps, you can ensure that your boat is as stable as possible and that you have a safe and enjoyable boating experience.

Reducing Speed

When it comes to boat stability, one of the most important factors to consider is the speed of your boat.

By reducing the speed of your boat, you can significantly reduce the amount of rocking and swaying that comes with higher speeds.

This is especially important in choppy waters, where the boat can become unstable and dangerous at higher speeds.

Reducing your speed can also help to increase fuel efficiency, allowing you to get the most out of your boat.

When slowing down your boat, make sure to do it gradually as sudden changes in speed can cause the boat to become unstable.

It is also important to be aware of the conditions of the waters you are navigating and adjust your speed accordingly.

For instance, if you are navigating in a busy area or in bad weather, it is best to slow down your boat to reduce the risk of an accident.

Additionally, if you are navigating in shallow waters, reducing your speed can help you avoid running aground.

Overall, reducing the speed of your boat is an important factor in improving its stability.

By being aware of the conditions of the waters you are navigating and slowing down your boat at the right times, you can greatly reduce the risk of accidents and make your boating experience more enjoyable.

Tips for Smooth Sailing

Making your boat more stable is an important factor in ensuring a safe and enjoyable boating experience. As any experienced boater knows, the stability of your boat can mean the difference between a pleasant day on the water and a rough, rock-filled ride. Fortunately, there are some simple steps you can take to increase the stability of your boat, making it easier to navigate and enjoy the waters. Here are four of the best tips to make your boat more stable:

1. Adjust the Weight Distribution – One of the best ways to make your boat more stable is to adjust the weight distribution. The best way to do this is to move heavier items such as engines, fuel tanks, and batteries to the center of the boat, which will help balance out the weight. Additionally, avoiding storing heavy items on the sides of the boat will help keep the boat from tilting when you turn or maneuver.

2. Use Outriggers or Stabilizers – Outriggers or stabilizers are devices that can be attached to the sides of the boat to provide additional stability. These devices are designed to reduce the amount of rocking and rolling that occurs when the boat is in motion. They work by creating a larger surface area for the boat to rest on, which helps to evenly distribute the weight and reduce the amount of rocking and rolling.

3. Add Ballast – Another way to make your boat more stable is to add ballast. Ballast is a weighted material, usually in the form of sand or water, that helps to keep the boat level. Adding ballast to the bottom of the boat will keep it from rocking and rolling, making it easier to navigate.

4. Choose the Right Boat – Finally, choosing the right boat for the type of water you are navigating is key to ensuring a stable ride. Different types of boats are designed for different types of waters, and selecting the right boat for the conditions will help to ensure a smoother ride and greater stability. Additionally, reducing the speed of your boat will help to reduce rocking and rolling, making for a more comfortable ride.

By following these simple tips, you can make your boat more stable and enjoy a safe and comfortable ride.

Whether you are just starting out in the world of boating or are a seasoned veteran, these tips can help you to navigate the waters with greater ease and stability.

With these easy steps, you can make your boat more stable and enjoy a smooth and enjoyable ride.

Preventing Unnecessary Risk

Making your boat more stable is an important factor in maintaining a safe and enjoyable boating experience.

Unstable boats are more prone to tipping over or capsizing, which not only puts the passengers and crew in danger, but can also cause significant damage to the vessel itself.

To make sure that your boat is as stable as possible, there are a few simple steps you can take.

The first step is to adjust the weight distribution of your boat.

If there is too much weight on one side of the boat, it can cause the boat to become unbalanced and unstable.

To prevent this, you should make sure that the weight is evenly distributed throughout the boat.

Additionally, it can be helpful to use outriggers or stabilizers to keep the boat from rocking from side to side.

These devices can help to keep the boat steady, even in choppy waters.

The second step is to add ballast to the boat.

Ballast is a heavy substance that is placed at the bottom of the boat in order to provide additional stability.

This can be beneficial in a variety of situations, including when navigating rough waters or in high winds.

Additionally, ballast can also help to reduce the risk of tipping over in the event of a sudden gust of wind or wave.

The third step is to choose the right boat for the type of waters you are navigating.

Different boats are designed for different types of conditions, so it is important to make sure you are using the right boat for the job.

For example, if you are navigating rough waters, it is important to choose a boat that is designed for those conditions.

This will help to increase the stability of your boat and reduce the risk of an accident.

Finally, you can reduce the speed of your boat to increase stability.

When your boat is moving at high speeds, it can become less stable due to the forces of inertia and momentum.

By reducing the speed of your boat, you can reduce these forces and make your boat more stable.

By following these four steps, you can make your boat more stable and enjoy a safe and comfortable ride.

Adjusting the weight distribution, using outriggers or stabilizers, adding ballast, choosing the right boat for the type of waters you are navigating, and reducing the speed of your boat are all simple and effective ways to increase the stability of your boat and reduce the risk of an accident.

With these easy tips, you can make sure your boat is as stable as possible and enjoy a safe and enjoyable boating experience.

Final Thoughts

Making your boat more stable is an important part of having a safe and enjoyable boating experience.

By following the four best tips outlined in this article, you can adjust the weight distribution, use outriggers or stabilizers, add ballast, and choose the right boat for the type of waters you’re navigating.

Additionally, reducing your boat’s speed and preventing unnecessary risks will help to ensure a smooth and stable ride.

Now that you know how to make your boat more stable, get out there and enjoy a safe and comfortable boating experience!

James Frami

At the age of 15, he and four other friends from his neighborhood constructed their first boat. He has been sailing for almost 30 years and has a wealth of knowledge that he wants to share with others.

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Lead Ballast vs. Water Ballast: What's the Difference?

Types of Boat Ballast

For boat owners, weight and balance are important factors for a fun day on the lake. Or as we like to say, only a few letters separate "ballast" and "blast!" With multiple ballast products available, different locations for weighting your boat based on your sport, it can be a lot to search through when you’re trying to choose the best ballast weight solution for your craft. Buying weighting and balancing materials for your boat is an investment, which is why we want to provide you with all the information needed to help make the right decision. In this post, we'll discuss what makes lead ballast and water ballast unique, as well as their respective benefits so that you can make a well-informed purchase that meets your needs.

What is Lead Ballast?

While solid ballast weight is commonly referred to as lead ballast or lead weight, ballast brands don't actually use true lead in their solutions. Instead they use steel shot remnant, steel scrap, or small steel pellets.

So while steel is much more dense than water, it's not as dense as actual lead. In fact, if one were to use lead, it would occupy nearly half as much space by volume compared to steel shot. That's why we prefer to make the distinction of “solid ballast", meaning not water-based, not liquid, but a solid as that covers any type of solid ballast application, whether that's steel shot, concrete, sand or rocks.

Lead Ballast vs. Water Ballast

The primary consideration when it comes to utilizing solid ballast as opposed to water ballast is that no matter what happens, you've got that solid ballast with you and you're not getting rid of it. Whether it's a day on the water, trailering your boat to and from the lake or lifting the boat up on your boat lift, water ballast gives you the ability to quickly and easily drain the ballast and just like that, it's gone. You don't have to suffer the consequences of carrying the ballast around with you everywhere. So you have it when you need it and you don't have it when you don't need it. This makes water-based ballast the overwhelmingly favorite option in the majority of scenarios when you need a lot of weight and you have the space for it.

That's not to say there aren't scenarios or applications where solid ballast makes sense. For example, if you need a significant amount of weight in a relatively small volume of space like up in the bow of the boat to move the center of gravity forward solid ballast can be a great choice. Or maybe you need some extra weight on the port side of the boat to offset prop rotation or the weight of the driver, who is always going to be on the starboard side of the boat. The density of solid ballast means you can get the amount of weight you need without occupying a significant amount of space within the boat, which makes solid ballast a great option to consider.

Issues with Lead Ballast

Special caveats around using solid ballast exist as previously mentioned when it comes to trailering and putting your boat on the lift. For example, if you were to add 300 pounds of weight to the bow of your boat to move the center of gravity forward, it's very easy to exceed the rated capacity of your tow vehicle's hitch because effectively all of that weight is picked up by the tongue of the trailer and none of it is transferred to the axles of the trailer. That means best case you're transferring weight back and forth from the bow of the boat to the middle of the boat every time you trailer. And worst case, you'll have a significant safety issue on your hands if the tow vehicle is overloaded.

Similarly, solid ballast can pose a problem when dealing with your boat lift. So even if you don't trailer your boat, it's still something to be aware of. Many older lifts weren't built for today's modern wake and surf boats as the weight of the boat itself has doubled in the last decade. That means you might be up against the limit of your boat lift without any additional ballast onboard. Add another 500-1,000 pounds of solid ballast that's always there and you're going to have significant issues with your lift's capacity. We've seen many lifts fail as a result of this and it's not a pretty sight.

When does solid ballast make sense?

Steel shot based ballast can be a great tool when used appropriately. Our soft recommended limit is typically 300 to maybe 500 pounds at the high end. Anything over that, you probably should be looking at water based ballast to pick up the majority of the weight that you need and then rely on the solid ballast as a supplement. It's great to have a few 25lb and 50lb bags on-hand to help dial in your wake as needed.

Hopefully that explains some of the pros and cons of solid or lead ballast versus water based ballast. If you have any additional questions, feel free to reach out by phone at (888) 338-6085 , by email to the [email protected] , or leave a comment below and a product advisor will be happy to talk you through it.

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Water Ballast....Race Boat Applications

Water Ballast….Race Boat Applications

Water ballast, in one form or another, has been around for the past 150 years. It has only been in the last 20 years that racing boats have utilized water ballast as a performance enhancing feature in their design criteria. We have seen this development primarily in the Open Class 30s, 40s, 50s, and 60s as well as the Whitbread 60s (Volvo 60s), and more recently, Class 40s. The use of water ballast has added to the strategy and excitement of these ocean racers and has become a proven, accepted feature as well as being reliable and safe.

Why does water ballast work? Like crew on the rail, water ballast adds weight outboard to increase a boat’s stability, or righting moment, helping it to sail more upright. This is important because a sailboat’s hull drag is usually the least when sailed upright. As the boat heels, hull drag increases and the boat slows down. Also, lift on the appendages decreases with an increase in heel angle, so the yacht’s pointing ability is reduced. It’s a similar principle for the sails as excessive heel will cause a reduction in lift and an increase in sail drag.

So when the seas are running and the breeze is heavy, a water ballasted yacht has a distinct advantage of being able to stabilize herself and become a more powerful offshore design. Sailing close-hauled in breeze is usually the time to carry the additional ballast as the boat will be heeling the most. Off the wind, it’s often more advantageous to sail with the tanks empty or partially full depending upon the conditions. However, if the wind and sea are running fairly high, then water ballast could be carried in both port and starboard tanks for proper weight and trim distribution. The extra weight of the water will keep the boat steady in waves. If the boat hobby-horses (pitch moment) too much, drag increases in both the rig and hull, and the boat’s efficiency through the water decreases dramatically.

If the water ballast tanks are divided into multiple compartments fore and aft, certain sections may be filled to correct for trim. These compartments would then be sub-divided with baffles to combat any free surface effects caused by the water sloshing back and forward. Depending upon the design, trial-and-error is necessary to optimize performance and develop a strategy for the use of the system for any given weather conditions. Even in light air conditions water ballast can be an advantage. By inducing heel the sails can hang full and continue to draw, keeping the boat going. The increased momentum created by the added weight also keeps the boat drifting forward when the puffs pass by.

When racing offshore or sailing shorthanded, classes like the Open 60s (left), Class 40s (above), and Mount Gay 30s have a full range of stability available via their water ballast tanks. This added righting moment gives the boat a marked performance increase in a variety of sea and wind conditions. The Mount Gay 30 Rule allows up to 600 litters of water ballast total. That is 300 litters each side, equivalent to 307.5 kgs per side. At 72.6 kgs per crew member, that’s equal to 4 1\4 crew members for on-the-wind conditions.

The stability characteristics of a Mount Gay 30 are a product of the Rules which define the boats dimensions: length, beam, draft, displacement, keel weight, keel center of gravity, mast weight, and mast center of gravity. The keel moment (keel weight times the distance between its center of gravity and the flotation waterplane) must be at least 1,180 kg-m which is easy to achieve for boats of normal proportions. However, in the unlikely event that the keel moment is less than this limit, then the boat must undergo a stability test. This involves pulling the boat over to 90 degrees heel and weighting the mast with 70 kgs (154.3 lbs) at the top of the jib halyard (IG measurement). The boat must at least balance this way, or preferably return upright, but not turn turtle. With such well-defined parameters, the 600 liter (158.5 gals) capacity of the water ballast tanks was determined as a safe and prudent amount.

The only design restrictions other than maximum capacity are that the tanks, which must be located aft of the chainplates, be integral or permanently secured to the hull, and be symmetrically arranged about the boats center line. The tanks must be plumbed with one system of pumps and valves. The pumps may be manual or powered. If power operated there must be a manual back-up. The inlets may be flush openings or retractable inlet scoops to take advantage of the ram effect at high speeds.

There are definitely strategic advantages to racing with water ballast, particularly on longer offshore competitions where there is little tacking to do. Water ballast can be taken on when you need it, you don’t have to feed it, it doesn’t talk back to you, and you can dump it when its usefulness has expired. The negative side is that, the plumbing requires some occasional maintenance and you don’t have as many warm bodies who can handle lines. Conversely, for round-the-cans racing where the ability to tack quickly is a necessity, dealing with water ballast become impractical. Crew weight, rather than transferring water, is far more efficient on these short, inshore courses as there are people to handle lines and reposition their weight for the best boat trim.

The system on the VG30 is quite simple and can be readily applied to boats of a similar size. Water is pumped on board with an electric pump or the hand pump backup. The 30 gpm electric pump may be brought on line at any time and takes approximately 2-1/2 minutes to fill a tank. The flow controls are located in the cockpit just forward of the traveler, providing quick and convenient access to the trimmer. The plumbing of the tanks is designed to be simple, easy to maintain, yet highly efficient. There are only three flow controls to this system; the 3″ dia. inlet/outlet gate valve, and two port and starboard gate valves for the 3″ dia transfer pipe. Two-way diverter valves are located down below to switch from the tank fill to a bilge pickup. The gate valves are all spring-loaded with shock cord (positive closed) and controlled lanyards leading up into the cockpit which can be held open by cam-cleating the lanyard in place.

Operating the water ballast system couldn’t be easier. To pump water into the port tank, the starboard and overboard gate valves are closed. Begin pumping until the port breather valves, located on the shear, blow water. To dump the water ballast, simply open the port and overboard gate valves, and the water will drain out with gravity. Tacking the VG30 with water ballast is just as easy. Prior to the tack, open both port and starboard gate valves, keeping the overboard gate valve closed, so the water will downflood from one side to the other. The transfer should take approximately 30 to 40 seconds, and once it is complete, close both gate valves and tack. It’s almost like roll tacking the boat! If there is any water loss, the new windward tank can be easily topped up with a few strokes on the hand pump.

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• Water Ballast System

Why a Water Ballast System is Worth Thinking About

A water ballast system in a cruising boat? Not a concept the traditionalists are likely to accept unreservedly. But providing the boat isn't dependent on this for stability it can be very beneficial in a seaway.

Such a water ballast system was part of the design philosophy when we built our cruising boat Alacazam , where it just supplements the permanent ballast in the keel bulb providing additional weight to windward when required.

The water is carried in two tanks on each side at the extremity of the waterline beam, each capable of being independently filled and drained by two 12v electric pumps. This is well below the point of maximum beam, but provides substantial benefits.

The Benefits of a Water Ballast System

• the boat's Centre of Gravity is no longer on the centreline, but is transferred outboard;
• as the boat heels, the righting moment increases due to the extended horizontal distance between the centre of buoyancy of the hull, and the centre of gravity of the water ballast;
• the Roll Moment of Inertia is significantly increased in terms of both pitch and roll;
• if caught with the water ballast on the wrong tack, the converse of the above applies such that the heel to leeward is not dramatically affected.

Freshwater or Seawater Water Ballast?

Initially the cruising man in me was reluctant to forego the increased freshwater capacity that the ballast tanks could provide, so they were used to supplement the standard water tanks located close to, and either side of, the centreline.

However, after lugging over 1,000lbs of this additional water all the way across the Atlantic without using any of it, I converted it to a seawater system.

Now I can get rid of it and replace it as required, and think of it as adjustable displacement . Tacking is done by opening a couple of simple valves and switching on the appropriate transfer pump. The boat's then tacked in the normal way, and then when the transfer is complete, the valves are closed and the pump's switched off.

Hard on the wind, with both windward tanks full, Alacazam heels about 6 degrees less for the same sail area and wind strength than she otherwise would, and sails quicker as a consequence. The concentration of outboard weight in the centre section of the boat noticeably improves the fore-and-aft stability, and coupled with less heel, reduces pitch and roll appreciably, the increased displacement making the boat generally more comfortable.

As the wind moves aft, the forward tank is drained and when well off the wind both tanks are drained. Of course in a short-tacking situation, the valve turning and pump switching involved in swapping the water from one side to the other requires a lot more rushing about that I'm accustomed to, so we only use the water ballast system on long offshore tacks.

The downside is that the tanks and the plumbing take up space that could otherwise be used for stowage, but there's no doubt that a moderate degree of water ballast in a light-ish displacement cruising yacht can improve both her performance and crew comfort.

Water Ballast: A Few FAQs...

What is a water ballast system?

A water ballast system is a device that allows a sailboat to fill or empty tanks with seawater to adjust its stability, trim, and performance. The water ballast can be transferred from one side of the boat to the other, or from the bow to the stern, depending on the sailing conditions.

How does a water ballast system work?

A water ballast system works by using scoops, valves, pumps, and tanks to control the flow of water in and out of the boat. The scoops are openings in the hull that can be lowered or raised to capture or release water. The valves are switches that direct the water to the desired tanks. The pumps are devices that speed up the filling or emptying process. The tanks are containers that store the water ballast.

What are the benefits of a water ballast system?

A water ballast system can provide several benefits for a sailboat, such as:

• Increasing stability by lowering the centre of gravity and reducing the angle of heel;
• Improving performance by optimizing the sail area and reducing the wetted surface;
• Enhancing comfort by smoothing the motion and reducing the rolling;
• Saving space and cost by eliminating the need for fixed ballast.

What are the drawbacks of a water ballast system?

A water ballast system can also have some drawbacks for a sailboat, such as:

• Taking up precious room on board that could be used for storage or accommodation;
• Increasing complexity and maintenance costs due to the additional equipment and plumbing;
• Creating potential environmental issues by spreading invasive species or pollutants through the water exchange;
• Losing effectiveness at low speeds or when sailing upwind due to the reduced water pressure on the scoops.

How much water ballast do I need for my sailboat?

The amount of water ballast needed for a sailboat depends on several factors, such as the size, shape, and design of the hull, the weight and distribution of the fixed ballast, the rig and sail plan, and the sailing conditions. There is no simple formula to calculate the optimal water ballast, but some general guidelines are:

• The water ballast should be between 10% and 30% of the total displacement of the boat;
• The water ballast should be placed as low and as far outboard as possible to maximize its righting moment;
• The water ballast should be adjusted according to the wind strength, wave height, and point of sail to achieve the best balance and trim.

The above answers were drafted by sailboat-cruising.com using GPT-4 (OpenAI’s large-scale language-generation model) as a research assistant to develop source material; to the best of our knowledge,  we believe them to be accurate.

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An Overview of a Few Common Misconceptions Regarding Beam, Ballast & Displacement As They Relate to Seakeeping Copyright 2000 - 2015 Michael Kasten INTRODUCTION This article was originally prepared as a response to questions posed on the Trawler World mailing list on the subject of Beam vs. Ballast as these two factors affect a vessel's Stability and Rolling Behavior. There are many opinions among boaters regarding the quantity of ballast as it relates to stability and on the amount of beam as it relates to comfort. Most of what we read in the common literature relating to stability presents an incomplete picture at best. In fact, applying actual science to the question rather than hearsay, we find many popular notions to be entirely incorrect. However, on occasion a few truthful bits do emerge. Here is an overview that should shed some light on our stability questions...   ON ROLL MOTION... BEAM Increased beam definitely does not provide increased comfort. Increased beam also does not provide increased safety, or what we would call "seakeeping" ability... Consider the following... A relatively light weight vessel with a wide waterplane will naturally have a very active roll behavior on the water. In other words, such a vessel will react to the shape of the water's surface very readily. This describes the majority of semi-displacement vessels and virtually all planing vessels. Adding ballast or making the water plane wider will only result in a more "harsh" roll motion, meaning greater roll accelerations. While fairly wide beam is generally beneficial to a true planing vessel, with displacement or semi-displacement types adding excessive beam or ballast will only serve to degrade performance due to increased displacement and wave making. Roll accelerations are well documented as being the primary culprit inducing seasickness. In general we observe that while greater beam will provide less roll angle , greater beam will also provide much more harsh, rapid, aggressive roll accelerations . Other factors being equal, stiffness (initial stability) varies as the cube of the beam. In other words, small changes in beam have a dramatic effect. We conclude from this that widening the water plane (increasing beam) will increase stiffness, but will at the same time reduce comfort and degrade seakindliness. BALLAST We are often barraged with obsolete notions about ballast. One such notion is the commonly held belief that a certain 'ballast ratio' must be achieved on sail boats. This is purely and simply a myth - an out-dated rule of thumb that must be given the "deep six...!"  Similarly, among power boaters there is the popular but incorrect perception that power boats need a certain amount of ballast in order to have adequate stability. Why are these notions false...? First, we can observe the disadvantages of increasing the amount of ballast. Heavier displacement means more volume that must be pushed through the water, thus more ballast equals greater resistance which will only slow the boat down. Conversely, in order to sustain a given speed, the added ballast will cost more in terms of fuel, engine power, and / or sail area. Second, we can observe that adding ballast will not provide an improvement in comfort. Why is this you ask...? As with added beam, if we add ballast the roll motion will become more aggressive due to the added righting force. Even though the added ballast may reduce the typical roll angle , there will be a less gentle "return" at the end of the roll, i.e. there will be a shorter roll period , roll accelerations will be greater, the roll motion will be less comfortable , and the incidence of seasickness will increase. The same applies whether aboard a displacement power vessel or a sailing vessel. Can you have too much ballast...?? As it turns out, yes...! With a very light structure such as GRP or aluminum, there can be an over-concentration of ballast. This is neither necessary nor desired, since it will tend to produce an overly harsh rolling motion , i.e. a short roll period with high accelerations. If instead the vessel's mass is well-distributed, the rolling motions will be vastly more "seakindly" to those on board, and will be more gentle on the rig. In other words, with a distributed mass, there will be a longer roll period with greatly reduced accelerations. This is due to having increased the vessel's " Roll Moment of Inertia " which is explained below... STABILITY The essential task is to achieve an optimum Vertical Center of Gravity which, combined with the right proportion of beam, freeboard and structural weights, will provide good sailing performance, a seakindly motion, and will yield a large range of positive stability. These are our actual goals... not some mythic "percentage" of ballast! DISPLACEMENT Other factors being equal, greater displacement ordinarily equates to greater comfort, i.e. the quality of ' seakindliness ' we all seek. The reasons for this may not be so readily apparent. Displacement vessels (sail or power) will usually have a less aggressive roll motion, a longer roll period, and a more gentle "return" at the end of the roll than semi-displacement or planing types. This is primarily due to displacement types having a proportionately less wide waterplane and greater displacement. We find that comfort and seakindliness are enhanced by keeping beam to the least amount necessary for initial stability and / or for sail carrying ability. Conversely we observe that adding ballast will be counter-productive in terms of comfort. How then can displacement benefit comfort...?? ROLL MOMENT OF INERTIA While the amount of displacement per water plane area will have a very real effect on a vessel's reaction to the sea surface, it is the distribution of a vessel's mass that has the greatest effect on dynamic roll motions. A vessel's "Mass Moment of Inertia" also called "Roll Moment of Inertia" is a way of expressing resistance to being put into motion by a force. We can improve comfort , and we can improve safety by increasing the "Roll Moment of Inertia" of the vessel. This is accomplished by spreading out the various weights aboard rather than having them highly concentrated. This is very much counter to the often assumed requirement for a specific 'ballast ratio' on sail boats, or that there must be a certain amount of ballast present for the safety of a power boat. For the most basic understanding of this, we can observe that an object with its mass distributed toward its perimeter will have a much higher resistance to changes in motion. It is therefore evident that it will be more dynamically stable . This can be intuitively thought of as the "gyroscope" effect. On boats, it has been well proven that distributing weights away from the roll axis, say into the structure and the rig, is extremely favorable to a vessel's dynamic stability . By direct observation, we have learned that boats that have been dismasted are much more likely to be rolled over. Why, you might ask...? Don't they have a much lower CG as a result of the dismasting...? A dismasted sailboat is more likely to capsize due to the greatly reduced "Roll Moment of Inertia" and the consequent relative ease with which a heavy roll can be suddenly induced. This cannot be demonstrated by any kind of static analysis as one would normally expect. Said differently, while the dismasted boat obviously has 'more' static stability without its mast, in the ocean where dynamic forces are at work, the effect is the opposite...! More explicitly, Roll or Mass Moment of Inertia is a way of expressing resistance to being put into motion by a force. This is quite different from static Torque or "Righting Moment" which is calculated as a quantity of mass times its distance from an axis. Instead, Roll Moment of Inertia is calculated as a quantity of mass times the fourth power of its distance from an axis. It is helpful to perform a few basic calculations... For example, assume we have 2,000 pounds of ballast located 5 feet from the roll axis. This will provide a Righting Moment (Torque) of 5 * 2,000 = 10,000 lb-ft however it will yield a Roll Moment of Inertia of 5^4 * 2,000 = 1,250,000 lb-ft^4.   Much more dramatic is to consider a 200 pound mast having its CG located 25 feet above the roll axis.  The mast will introduce a Heeling Moment of 25 * 200 = 5,000 lb-ft, but will have a Roll Moment of Inertia of 25^4 * 200 = 78,125,000 lb-ft^4. In this example, the mast exerts exactly half the static moment (torque) as compared to the ballast, but although the mast has only one tenth the mass of the ballast, by virtue of its distance from the roll axis the mast is some 62.5 times more effective at resisting being put into motion...!!  It is by this simple example that we can observe the extraordinary benefits conferred by well-distributed masses. Many years ago during the Fastnet Race, rigorous analyses done after the loss of many vessels revealed that the boats which had concentrated ballast, light structure, and very light rigging suffered excessively due to their harsh rolling motions which caused many dismastings with consequent capsizes, as well as widespread seasickness and inability to function. By comparison, boats with heavier structure, lesser "ballast ratios" and heavier rigs resisted being "thrown" into severe roll accelerations, had much more seakindly roll motions, were easier on their rigging, did not lose their masts, did not capsize, and did not experience nearly the degree of seasickness among their crews. This is counter-intuitive because the heavier vessels typically had a higher center of gravity and therefore less " static " stability. However due to their distributed masses they had much greater " dynamic " stability, which enhanced both seakindliness and seakeeping ability, and vastly improved survivability. With regard to structure, as compared to a fiberglass vessel a steel vessel will inherently have its mass distributed farther from its roll center, therefore a steel vessel will have a higher roll moment of inertia (mass moment of inertia) and will be less active 'dynamically' in terms of roll, pitch, and yaw, thus a steel vessel will inherently be much more seakindly. ROLL ATTENUATION On power vessels, the most effective strategy for roll attenuation (certainly the most effective strategy per dollar spent) will be the use of properly designed paravanes. These will degrade performance somewhat, particularly at higher speeds, but for those times when performance is imperative, the paravanes can be retrieved... On power vessels, if cost is a lesser consideration and convenience of use is a paramount concern, then active stabilizers will possibly be the best choice, even though they are only effective under way.  A recent addition to the stabilization arsenal is the use of gyro-stabilizers, which are gaining acceptance on yachts. On sailing vessels, the weight and geometry of the rig and the wind in the sails will do an excellent job of reducing roll motions. It is rare if ever that a sailing vessel will resort to the extremes used by power boaters...! The above are among the various factors that affect a vessel's perceived "comfort" which is the usual consideration with regard to roll motions. Of course the comfort of the crew is an important safety factor that should not be overlooked...! For further discussion of these phenomena, please see my article on Roll Attenuation Strategies .   ON STABILITY... Several of the above factors primarily affect a vessel's initial, or "perceived" stability. In a completely separate category is a vessel's ultimate stability. BALLAST RATIO Ultimate stability, i.e. the ability to resist or to recover from a large angle roll, ordinarily is enhanced by the addition of ballast. However, whether adding ballast will provide an improvement in ultimate safety for any given vessel is a question that only a detailed analysis can answer. On the one hand, in a ' static ' sense, more ballast lowers the center of gravity, and should therefore be beneficial. For example it is obvious that for sail carrying, more ballast is beneficial. For comfort though, it is not, because for resistance to being rolled in actual dynamic conditions, added ballast will only increase the harshness of the roll. Without question, a balance must be struck. A light weight vessel having a large concentration of ballast will have greater stiffness (initial stability), but will have a much lesser Roll Moment of Inertia, will be much more easily put in motion, and will be more likely to experience large roll angles due to wave action. In other words, the light weight vessel with a high ballast ratio is more likely to be capsized...! While the 'ballast ratio' may have some utility as a measure of seakindliness (i.e. more equals less), it is in fact quite meaningless as a measure of either stability or seakeeping ability. Why? We know nothing about a vessel's true stability picture without considering the distribution of weights, the vessel's center of gravity, and the shape of the boat. In other words, dynamic stability and large angle stability must be considered as equal partners with the vessel's static stability. A/B RATIO Popularized by Beebe in Voyaging Under Power, the A/B ratio was originally promoted as a quick way to judge a power boat's seakeeping ability. It simply compares the Above water area to the Below water area. Small numbers are viewed favorably, large numbers not. We are so frequently taunted with questions about the A/B ratio of power boats that we should be clear about one thing: Although relevant, the A/B ratio is very misleading. As a criterion of stability or sea keeping ability it is a gross oversimplification of the factors that should be considered. We have much better tools at our disposal for the analysis of stability and we should make use of them. The range of positive stability of a sail or power vessel (static stability) depends entirely on three factors. The third factor, although equally important, is all too often ignored: Shape Center of Gravity Prevention of Flooding To the above we would ordinarily add a fourth factor: Movable Weights. For the moment we'll simplify the question by assuming all weights to be fixed and therefore that the CG remains in one place. After numerous stability analyses on a variety of craft, we quickly observe that increasing the volume of enclosed space above the waterline increases large angle stability. We achieve this by increasing freeboard and the volume enclosed by the vessel's superstructure. More enclosed space equals more reserve buoyancy and a greater righting force. But we must not ignore the center of gravity. Therefore the weight of superstructures must be kept within limits. Those limits however are not determined by some arbitrary A/B ratio, but instead by a thorough analysis of a vessel's weights, combined with a rigorous large angle stability analysis. As an interesting and somewhat contrary example, we observe that the large angle stability of power boats will nearly always be greater than that of a typical sail boat in the same size range. This may come as a surprise, but it is proven time and again by rigorous analyses of the large angle stability of different vessel types. Why is this so...? After all, don't sail boats have a higher ballast ratio and a smaller A/B ratio than power boats...? Their greater large angle stability is due to power vessels having relatively much larger enclosed volume of the superstructures. In fact we can say that the relatively greater large angle stability of power vessels is because of their relatively higher A/B ratio...! Where Captain Beebe’s original A / B ratio concept is shown to have good validity is when considering the windage of the superstructure of a power boat. This factor is actually modeled in the IMO extended weather criteria wherein a wind-force is imposed, as well as a rolling moment to leeward resulting in a certain amount of heeling energy. In this analysis, there must be sufficient reserve righting energy to resist the heeling energy, in order to pass this criterion. It is extremely difficult to pass this criterion if the vessel has excessive windage combined with insufficient volume below the water. In other words, if there is a larger profile below the water, it is more likely that the boat will have sufficient displacement to “handle” its windage profile above the water. Beebe probably did not need a crystal ball to know this…! He was after all a highly seasoned voyager, as well as quite an intuitive designer, thus Beebe was prescient with regard to the IMO wind and weather criteria. DOWNFLOODING In any analysis of stability, we must also make rational assumptions with regard to flooding... The primary key to prevention of flooding is to have a strong superstructure and adequately strong openings that are actually capable of keeping the water out in the event of a capsize. In terms of ultimate stability, a vessel's potential 'downflooding' points are a primary consideration. On power vessels for example, the location of engine room ventilation openings are possibly the most common violations of common sense and of good practice in terms of downflooding, and therefore of ultimate stability. Sliding glass doors and picture windows come to mind as being a close second... Sailing vessels are ordinarily well fortified against downflooding. Still, dorades, hatches and companionways are possible sites for downflooding. A strategy aimed at "keeping the water out" and assuring that all the various possible openings can be quickly closed or covered will provide the most benefit in terms of ultimate or large angle stability for any vessel. Whether they are displacement types, semi-displacement types, or planing types, if given sufficiently strong superstructure with robust windows, with hatches and doors having adequate WT seals, most power boats will have an enormous range of positive stability. A large portion of those power boats will actually be fully self righting, which is much more than can be said for the majority of sail boats. The key is to keep the water out... WINDAGE A thorough stability analysis must also account for the windage of a vessel's freeboard, superstructure, sails and rigging. Windage is a 'shape' related factor, and an important one. Most of the various stability criteria that are in use around the world consider windage. In fact on close scrutiny we observe that windage is quite an important limiting factor. If there is any validity to the use of the A/B ratio as a measure of anything, it is most useful as a relative comparison of windage. It is important to note however that there is not any specific numeric value here that means anything at all. It can only be used as a relative comparison, which even then is not of much use in an absolute sense, except to note that one boat has more and another less. The real story lies in actually calculating a vessel's wind resistance and its heeling due to wind pressure, then comparing that to the vessel's righting curve. This is of course not simple, because in order to even have a righting curve we must first have calculated the vessel's CG and its shape, and we must then have done a large angle stability analysis. This is the only way to derive a true comparison from one vessel to another. Actual calculation of windage and its effects on the stability of the boat in question is the only method internationally recognized as having any credibility among the various criteria of a vessel's survivability. MOVABLE WEIGHTS The shape of tanks... In terms of movable weights, the shape of tanks is another primary consideration. Why...?   The free surface effect. When you step into a partially filled skiff, you'll immediately discover the dramatic effect of free surface.... Numerically speaking, the motion of liquids in tanks degrades stability in proportion to the cube of the width of the tank. Suffice it to say that the liquids should be kept from sloshing, and that tall narrow tanks are generally better than wide shallow tanks. But it should also be realized that a tall narrow tank will have its maximum free surface effect when the vessel is heeled to 90 degrees... precisely at the moment when the vessel needs all the help it can get in order to recover.   Moderation... the great equalizer...!   WHAT CRITERIA TO APPLY... PREVIOUSLY We have looked at a few of the commonly used but over-simplified and outmoded ways of judging stability and seaworthiness, such as the commonly quoted 'ballast ratio' for sail boats or the A/B ratio for motor yachts. There is yet another commonly used but highly misleading criterion we may encounter. It is the metacentric height originally introduced by Frederik Henrik Af Chapman in the 1600's. While quite useful as a gauge of initial stability and therefore as a preliminary gauge of sail carrying ability and of seakindliness, a vessel's metacentric height is not of much use as a gauge of ultimate , or large angle stability. In other words, it is a useful piece of data re: initial stability and roll period, but it is not in any way definitive re: seaworthiness or survivability. These various criteria have all had their place in the history of boat design, however we must look beyond the overly simplistic view they offer. More accurate comparisons are more subtle, and will therefore require more than a cursory inquiry. PRESENTLY We now have much better stability analysis tools available, and we should insist on using them to their best advantage. Computer analysis has made possible a much more detailed picture of the various elements of stability and seakeeping ability than had been practical even as recently as two decades ago. In the case of seakeeping, stability and roll motion, we have observed that waterplane area, beam, VCG, displacement, and roll moment of inertia are all important factors. Also important are the shape of the underbody, the configuration of appendages, and the volume and watertight integrity of deck structures. In terms of ultimate stability , there are many different standards being used throughout the world. Among the most familiar are the ISO (European Union), MCA (International), IMO (International) and US Coast Guard (US only), and others that are applied locally in various regions. Each of them have rigorous criteria that apply to commercial power vessels and to sailing vessels. Within the EU, quite rigorous criteria have been formalized for recreational craft (ISO). For any new design, after a thorough weight analysis is done in order to determine the VCG, a large angle stability analysis can then be done. With the results of these analyses in hand, we can then determine the vessel's compliance with the ISO, IMO, MCA, USCG or other applicable stability criteria. In terms of comfort , internationally recognized criteria for seakindliness are still under development, however Maxsurf Motions software provides an opportunity to analyze dynamic vessel motions and accelerations.   SUMMARY If there is one absolute truth in all of this, it is this:                     With regard to seakindliness and seaworthiness there are no absolutes, only tendencies...! Due to the complexities involved, we may attempt to apply generalities to the problem, however such generalities are necessarily prone to oversimplification and error, and will therefore nearly always be misleading if applied too broadly.... or too blindly. We must step back a bit and consider the larger picture... Michael Kasten Port Townsend, 2002 Updated 2012 & 2016    

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What is Ballast on a Boat? – The Key for Stable Boating

Written by Anthony Roberts / Fact checked by Jonathan Larson

Ordinary folks have many questions about boating terminologies, making the query, “What is ballast on a boat?” no longer surprising. In simple terms, ballast is anything (mostly water) that stabilizes a structure or, in this case, a vessel. It’s a crucial element in ensuring a safe voyage.

Of course, that’s an oversimplification of this all-important vessel component. Join us in exploring what the ballast of a ship means.

Table of Contents

Understanding Ballast

1. solid ballast, 2. water ballast, how does a ballast work, 1. impact of ballast on performance, 2. factors influencing boat stability, 3. how ballast affects stability, advantages of using ballast in sailing, factors to consider for proper ballast distribution, 1. maintenance and safety considerations, 2. best practices for ballast management, frequently asked questions.

Let’s define ballast. Ballast is anything (i.e., water, sandbag, stone, improvised weights, and other objects or materials) vessel operators can use to ensure stability. In the case of boats, ballast adds weight to watercraft when it’s lighter than its safe operating limits.

For example, a container ship can carry tons of cargo. It would not have any issues maintaining stability on the high seas because the weight increases its draft. However, problems can arise once the vessel unloads its cargo. It would be bobbing in the ocean like a cork in the water.

Hence, the purpose of ballast is to ensure the container ship’s stability without its safe load, allowing it to stay afloat.

Now, you might hear some folks talk about a ballast light. That’s a different technology in lighting fixtures, especially high-intensity discharge (HID) bulbs and fluorescent lights. This ballast type allows lighting fixtures to start and operate optimally.

Some might also refer to a track ballast. It’s the bed of aggregate (mainly crushed gravel or rocks) supporting a railroad track and the train’s load while ensuring efficient water drainage.

Given these variances in definitions, we recommend appreciating this boating terminology by understanding the ballast synonym, including equilibrium, counterbalance, stabilizer, brace, and weight.

Different Types of Ballast in Boating

As mentioned, ballast could be anything a skipper or ship crew can use to balance and stabilize the vessel. Hence, we can categorize ballast into two.

Before the late 19th century, skippers and sailors relied on sandbags, rocks, and other “solid” objects to balance the ship’s empty cargo hold. They would secure these items on structures aboard the vessel.

Unfortunately, it’s not unusual for a ballast stone to break free, potentially shifting the ship’s weight to one side and causing it to list and capsize.

The 20th century saw drastic yet worthwhile improvements in boat designs, with pumps and steel hulls dominating the field. The days of the solid ballast material are numbered.

Steel-hulled ships in the 20th century began featuring a specialized compartment we call today a ballast tank. The innovation holds water as the balancing or counterbalancing material for the vessel. Rightfully, sailors call it ballast water.

Revisiting our earlier definition of ballast, we can say that the ballast water definition is a vessel’s use of water to correct stability issues and ensure a safe voyage.

We have two water ballast types: clean and segregated. Vessels with a clean ballast use the same oil cargo hold to fill with water for balancing and stabilizing the watercraft. The crew cleans the compartment before filling it with water and getting underway.

Meanwhile, segregated ballast refers to water in specialized compartments separate from the ship’s oil cargo. These sections can also accommodate other items, except harmful liquids.

Boat ballast works in various mechanisms depending on the ballast material. However, the principle remains the same – to add or reduce vessel weight to maintain balance and floatation stability.

For example, a fully loaded ship doesn’t need ballast because the cargo’s weight pushes the hull deeper into the water. However, a vessel without a cargo load will be light, raising its center of gravity toward the surface.

If the ship uses water as ballast, the crew can pump water from the sea, lake, river, or anywhere the vessel is on. The action increases the watercraft’s weight and improves its stability in the water.

If the vessel is ready to load another cargo, the crew can pump the water from the ballast tanks and discharge it into the sea.

It’s the same principle with solid ballast, albeit the crew will work more to move and secure the sandbags, steel, cement, rocks, or stone in their predetermined positions.

The Role of Ballast in Stability

Marine ballast weights are crucial to a vessel’s stability, especially in rough waters.

Although ballast is crucial to ensuring optimum center of gravity, too much ballast can impact vessel performance.

Increasing the watercraft’s displacement (i.e., adding boat ballast weights) will increase water resistance. There’s more water the ship must push against. Hence, too much ballast can reduce vessel speed.

Increased water resistance creates another issue – increased fuel consumption. The vessel will try to compensate for the reduced speed by increasing engine power, which consumes more fuel.

Vessel stability depends on several factors, including the following.

• Buoyancy – the ship’s ability to stay afloat defined by the water’s upward force.
• Weight location – a vessel’s weight must be near the bottom to improve stability; crowding the deck with a heavy load can upset the ship’s balance and cause it to roll.
• Water conditions – rough weather (i.e., strong winds and high waves) can reduce stability by continuously shifting the center of gravity.

As mentioned, weight location is a crucial factor in ensuring vessel stability. The ballast on a ship plays a vital role in this regard.

If a ballast is high on the deck, there’s a chance of upsetting the balance and causing the watercraft to roll. Moreover, too much ballast can lower the vessel’s freeboard, making the ship more susceptible to swamping.

Sailboats have ballast, providing sailors with two advantages.

The first is increased speed. Water ballast increases a sailboat’s sail, rudder, and keel projected profile, allowing the watercraft to catch more wind and propel it faster than sailing vessels without ballast.

The second is improved comfort. Sailing ballast softens the impact of tossing and rolling due to excessive heeling (the vessel’s tendency to “tip” to one side).

The amount of ballast to use in any vessel is the most crucial consideration for proper ballast distribution. The others are as follows.

• Space requirements – ballast occupies space, requiring boat owners to consider how much ballast their tank or compartment can hold
• Carriage capacity – the goal is to produce an effective counterweight, not overload the boat
• Boat metrics – draft, displacement, freeboard, and deadweight tonnage offer boaters an idea of how to distribute ballast

Ballast Systems and Design Considerations

Shipbuilders and boat manufacturers spend plenty of resources designing the ideal ship ballast system to ensure optimum stability and buoyancy. As a rule, ballast shouldn’t exceed 30% of the vessel’s deadweight tonnage.

One issue with water ballast is its effect on the environment when ships discharge untreated water into open seas and other bodies of water. The effluent could contain microorganisms and other life forms in various stages.

Hence, vessels must institute measures to ensure the safe discharge of water ballast into open bodies of water. It will help curb the proliferation of invasive species in local waters.

Here are some tips for optimizing ballast for stability.

• Research the best possible ballast installation diagram for your boat, preferably a customizable one.
• Understand your needs and choose the correct ballast size.
• Analyze different ballasts and pick the material best suited for your activity.
• Use a ballast calculator to help you determine the amount of ballast commensurate to your vessel’s buoyancy and weight.
• Consider your watercraft’s draft, freeboard, displacement, and deadweight tonnage ratings to determine the optimal ballast for stability.

Do all boats need ballast?

No, not all boats need ballast. Sailboats, particularly those with keels, often use ballast to provide stability and prevent capsizing.

However, many recreational boats or lightweight watercraft, such as kayaks or canoes, do not require ballast. These boats still maintain stability thanks to their design, hull shape, and inherent buoyancy.

Where do you put ballast on a boat?

Boaters must place ballast in their vessel’s lowest part (i.e., bilge). This location lowers the watercraft’s center of gravity to ensure floatation stability.

What are the risks of improper ballast distribution?

Improperly distributed ballast can upset the vessel’s balance, causing it to roll to one side. Swamping can also occur at heavier sections.

Are there any regulations or guidelines for ballast use in boating?

Yes, 82 countries signed the 2004 International Convention for the Control and Management of Ships’ Ballast Water and Sediments. Hence, vessels registered in these nations must comply with the international rules.

“What is ballast on a boat?” is a valid greenhorn sailor’s question. It’s a material that vessels use to ensure the watercraft stays upright even in stormy seas.

Ballast adds weight to the watercraft, increasing its draft and lowering its center of gravity. These effects contribute to better stability amidst rough waters. It’s the perfect element for sailboats, allowing sailors to minimize keeling tendencies.

Although most ships use water as ballast, other materials can be a counterweight, balancer, or equalizer. Knowledge of this boating terminology should make you more confident and secure the next time you sail.

Ten years of enjoying countless trips on boats never made me love them any less! So I am here to put all those experiences into good use for other boaters who want to have a safe and fun trip with their friends and families.

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What Is a Ballast on a Boat? (For Stable Floatation & Easy Boating)

Written by J. Harvey / Fact checked by S. Numbers

You may wonder “what is a ballast on a boat” and how does it work for easy and safe boating? Boarding a stable vessel that strides over tides without the risk of capsizing is possible because of a boat’s ballast.

The “ballast” of a boat provides stability while lowering gravitational balance and reducing the roll. This can be a “ballast tank or bag” containing water or other counterweights to increase boat displacement.

Read on to learn more about various effective marine ballasts and how seasoned boating experts enjoy using them.

Table of Contents

1. Simple Description Of An Effective Boat Ballast

2. the basics of adding a boat ballast, 3. marine ballast variants, 4. the power of boat ballasts, 5. water ballast technology systems, 1. what are ballasting and deballasting, 2. how does a ballast system work on a boat, basic guide about a boat ballast and how it works.

The boat ballast meaning varies based on where it is used: a sailboat, angler, airboat, or air balloon. Usually, a ballast comprises water but also uses other counterweight methods for a specific boat or boating need.

Like a small boat ballast, it needs the traditional use of ballast stone, water, lead, steel, cement, or sand materials. The water ballast sailboat effectively increases displacement against strong water or wind pressures by having a ballast keel.

The concept of older boat ballasts like the year 1700 ship ballast types and those in sailboats are still relevant today. Before, larger boats even used stones or sand as a ballast keel for floatation stability.

Years passed and ballasts evolved into advanced marine counterweights to pull dive deeper into the water, and thus, lower the center of gravity and displace water to improve floatation.

This means that the more weight your ballast can provide, the better the boat can settle in the water. It keeps hulls covered well in water for more boat balance, a dry deck, and better water wake.

Explore the basic tips for adding ballasts for a safe and well-balanced sailboat, yacht, fishing, wakeboard, and other vessel types here.

• Read about the best practices and secure the right boat ballast installation diagram to customize it.
• Know the space requirements for the ballast and the ballast size you want to use for your intended purpose.
• Check that your ballast features meet your expectations for big species fishing, recreational purposes like wakeboarding, etc.
• Consider the carriage capacity of the boat to select a boat ballast that serves as an effective counterweight.
• Compute for the freeboard, water displaced, or deadweight tonnage and draft calculations to know the effect of adding your ballast.
• Add sufficient counterweight to prevent the boat from tipping or heeling when exposed to excessively high waves and winds.
• Know whether a fixed, portable, or manual ballast system works for your boat by using a boat ballast calculator. Adding the appropriate type of ballast to your boat should be within the boat weight and buoyancy or floatation ability.

Aside from a water ballast and the materials mentioned above, there are other variants to consider for your vessel. Adding the right ballast type is vital, especially for ocean goers, like open-sea fishing, tanker, or barge and cruise ship.

Though they differ in names, they are basically classified as a clean ballast (CBT), and segregated ballast type (SBT). Each ballast needs to be shaped and secured firmly so it will not upset the ship’s balance or damage it.

Also, larger boats like yachts use water or lead ballasts in their keel or lower hulls with pipes and pumps. This additional weight helps keep yacht cruisers and barges floating upright for long stationary hours in the water.

Marine ballasts differ from simple to advanced materials and construction but all need safe handling, precision fitting, and sediment flowability. Essentially, heavier ballasts can lower boats in the water for maximum stability and create a better wake.

People tend to believe that each boat’s ballast type is much greater than the other, like using a water ballast . But the truth is, all of them are powerful counterweight measures when they are used accordingly.

• The boat ballast weight or additional mass needed depends on the boat’s displacement need, weight, and buoyancy.
• Check your desired ballast weight with the boat’s weight based on boat displacement or the weight of the water it displaces.
• Consider using stone, lead, iron, or cement to make a powerful sailboat ballast. Ensure the ballast is movable or designed to prevent further modifications to the layout of any boat.
• Add or reduce by one inch the weight of your boat in the water to see the difference when it’s floating. You can check different weight charts that apply even for small cruisers, yachts, or dinghies and tenders.

Today, boats use water ballasting or deballasting systems, which are handier and safer. This liquid boat ballast system consumes less time and maximizes the already available seawater whenever needed in huge amounts.

In the old days and in some boating environments these days, solid ballasts are used for boat stability. This applies for sailboats to ease out movements, and cargo loading and discharging where the portage is minimal.

The good thing about a water ballast system is it can become lightweight when there is cargo on the ship. The ship’s cargo maintains the stability itself requiring little to no ballast water and can quickly flow when needed.

Ensure to adhere to port authority requirements wherever you need to drain sediments or take water to the ballast tank. You need to have a water management plan when your ship navigates in foreign or a state’s terrestrial waters.

Learn more from this YouTube Video from Bar Crusher Boats on how a water ballast “Quickflow system” works.

Frequently Asked Questions About a Dinghy or Tender Boat

It’s the process of taking in and draining out seawater from the boat ballast tank for proper weight balance. The ballasting and deballasting process ensure structural integrity and stability of the ballast tank while at port or at sea.

Most ships with water ballast systems have piping and high-capacity pumps to ease the ballasting and deballasting process.

Installing a ballast system on a boat helps you keep stable access while navigating without the fear of tipping over. It also provides better storage for long periods or winterization purposes while preventing any damage.

Providing stability to your boat needs an additional solid, metal or water weight on the ballast tank or compartment. In addition, it is necessary to ease out the gravitational pull by displacing the weight down and putting dense water out for a better wake.

I’m certain you now know “What is a ballast on a boat and how does it work?” It’s your life-saving option to stride over strong tides without worries of capsizing.

Use these recommendations from experienced boaters to guide you in using your boat ballast tank. Operate your boat and enjoy proper displacement control of your ship to navigate smoothly and handle opposing buoyancy.

Continue learning these boating expert insights to ensure a safe and convenient boating experience. We hope you’ll share this review and feel free to share your thoughts about it with us.

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Sailboat water ballast

Discussion in ' Sailboats ' started by razor , Jan 5, 2006 .

razor Junior Member

How would you go about calculating the reduction in heal by adding water ballast to a boat? What are the measurements and variables do I need to understand to make the calculation (distance above waterline, distance from centerline etc..)? Thank you  

RHough Retro Dude

razor said: How would you go about calculating the reduction in heal by adding water ballast to a boat? What are the measurements and variables do I need to understand to make the calculation (distance above waterline, distance from centerline etc..)? Thank you Click to expand...

safewalrus Ancient Marriner

keep pouring it in until you stop healing - or sink! Hmm! not very scientific is it? some wouldn't like it as they have to have lots of maths to prove how clever they are. Works tho'  

Skippy Senior Member

RHough: 1 ton of ballast 1 furlong from the centre will create 1 ton furlong of moment. And if your boat moves 10,000 furlongs in 1 fortnight, then your average boatspeed is 10,000 furlongs per fortnight. btw, with a 1-furlong ballast lever arm, be VERY careful around shoals.  

Doug Lord Guest

Water Ballast For what it's worth and slightly off topic: canting keels have generally proved faster than water ballast at least in big boats. Some boats put tanks as far outboard as possible even using a flared hull to get the tank as far to weather as possible. Some boats use water ballast just filling a central tank (very inefficient)and others use it just for pitch trim. For use as righting moment the further to windward you can get it the better. But then you have to figure out how to get it from one side to the other and how to lose it when you don't need it.  

I was thinking of a retro-fit application by flaring the hull, it would seam to me to be the least expensive approach, PVC tubes glassed over on the sides of the hull.  

sharpii2 Senior Member

PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

You may also want to look at the loading on the bits and pieces of the rig and the rig as a whole, which will increase, possibly substantially.  

Thank you for your responses. Sharpii2 would your 25% rule apply to total capacity or per side? Does any one have access to information on the systems used on the old Volvo open 60s?  

razor said: Thank you for your responses. Sharpii2 would your 25% rule apply to total capacity or per side? Does any one have access to information on the systems used on the old Volvo open 60s? Click to expand...

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asathor Senior Member

waterballast Water ballast can be made self leveling by drilling a series of small holes at the waterline:idea: If the waterline is raised it will run out If it is low it will run in However some people prefers to have the water on the outside of the boat Whats so bad about lead anyway. It would be easy to build a track for lead ballast to move to the desired location and that way you could have the keel cant in the direction where it would do some good. Sure the ballst would not get as far out but it could make a canting keel inexpensive.  

any examples of side-to-side transferable water ballast sailboats?

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Adding Ballast to Hunter 240

• Thread starter patbratton
• Start date Apr 2, 2023
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Smaller Boats

I read Sandy Grant's review of his H240 in Brisbane, AU. It is posted in the Hunter 240 section on this site. He added two Plastimo flexible water tanks in the hatch spaces. He put a 100 L bag on each side in order to provide 400 pounds more ballast. He writes,"I have just added 2x 100 litre Plastimo water tanks which I plan to keep full. These are located in the hatch space on either side of the boat. I don't care what anyone else thinks - these boats are tender and I hate having to reef going upwind in 12 knots just when the sailing should be perfect. The difference upwind was amazing and downwind she felt much more stable - no annoying joggle when sailing in choppy seas." I just ordered two from Defender at $104.00 each. They hold about 26 gallons each and can be plumbed into the water system. They are 41 x 27 inches. I will post pictures of the install after the bladders arrive.  

Crazy Dave Condon

For those who are trailering, it depends where those bladders are as to trailering if they are in the back. Generally there is a 10% factor built in for safety on tires and with that, you will need to get rid of the water before putting the boat onto the trailer. where is the article so I can read it? I want to see what he is saying to choppy seas and how much he is heeling. your boat is on a lake, not on the ocean which i sailed everywhere plus being involved with the design. Yes I have reservations but open to see what the article has to say  

Crazy Dave Condon said: This is the link to Sandy Grant's review: Hunter Owner Reviews Hunter Owner Reviews hunter.sailboatowners.com If we have to pull the boat the added 400 pounds would be way to heavy for my trailer. The bladder tanks would have to be drained first. We have been in a slip for two years. It has taken my most of that time to get proficient with the rig. The CDI furler has been the best investment so far. She is just to tender for my wife and I am hoping that the added ballast stiffens her up a little. Elaine has gotten very cautious in her old age and is easily scared, which is odd considering all the time we spent on the Hobie 18. All four children are over 50 and they love the Wet Dog just the way she is. Click to expand

You could also add some ballast by dissolving salts into the ballast tank.  

Pat thank you for that link. It is great that you would drain the bladders before pulling the boat out. I was headed north with a new 260 when another 260 was headed south with tire’s carrying too much weight. Turned around and caught up with the owner headed back to Hunter in Florida with a major warranty issue. The water ballast had not been drained. We were 60 miles from my dealership suggesting to bring his boat there for repairs which Hunter highly suggested he do. Repaired his boat and took it sailing. Two day repairs at no cost plus he stayed at my home I introduced CDI as I met the mfg at the Annapolis boat show. I was one of the first customers and got Catalina and Hunter to offer it as an extra gear which is why I know your system all too well I was involved with the design of the 240. Based on experience I suggest never heel more than 12-14 degree of heel and get ready to reef at 14-17 knots. The mainsail is much bigger than a standard mainsail and it was designed that way for more power. Heel is controlled by sail deployment. The article states moderate winds 16-22 mph, choppy seas without stating how high and shallow waters withouth stating depth. Further, he does not like to reef. The 240 comes with one reef but a second reef can be added. Also I wonder if he sailing into the waves if you do add the tanks, take a look at the water line to make sure it is even with the water. Also you may have to raise the anti fouling paint line as well keep us posted Dave Condon  

rgranger said: You could also add some ballast by dissolving salts into the ballast tank. Click to expand

rgranger said: Okay so I didn't have time to expand on this idea when I first posted. Ammonium nitrate (available at most tractor supply type stores) is soluble in water at 119g per 100 ml. The ballast tank on a Hunter 240 is just a little over 156 gallons... or 590,524 ml .... (multiply by 119g)...and in theory you could dissolve 70.2 million grams of ammonium nitrate into that tank... or 154,764 pounds.... WAY MORE BALLAST THAN YOU NEED. There is an environmental problem with this though... ammonium nitrate is a very potent fertilizer and if you were regularly dumping this into a lake ... you would be causing all kinds of algae blooms etc. BUT If you want to try this out once just to see how it changes how your boat handles... of if you are leaving your boat tied up at a slip and not dumping the tank regularly... the environmental impact would be minimal. I think it would be wise to test it out before you invest in a lot of boat modifications. Try dissolving a few 50lb bags of ammonium nitrate into your ballast tank and see how your boat handles. BTW: Ammonium nitrate is also the active ingredient in those instant cold packs in your first-aid kit. So... if you did this on a hot day, you would get some very refreshing chemical cooling going on... Click to expand

I would not do that as it may well affect the integrity of the water ballast tank  

Johnb said: You may have slipped a cog in the calculation. 100 mL of water weighs 100 gm into which you could dissolve approx 120 gems of the salt resulting in 240% of the weight of the original. In round terms that would be 156x8x2.4 = 3000 pounds. Correct me if I am wrong Click to expand

When the tank is full, it will stop filling up. Simple. Close it up and go drink some grog. I call it moonshine when I use to make it  

Johnb said: Correct me if I am wrong Click to expand

rgranger said: a few hundred pounds of a soluble salt would allow the OP to determine if this fix will get him the performance he is looking for. Click to expand

I added the Starboard flexible tank under the seat. I remembered that Elaine had fallen in the cabin and caught herself on the table. It pulled the top two machine screws out of the fiberglass. Drilled out all six hole and replaced the screws with machine screws with fender washers with nyloc nuts. I did not want the flexible tank to rub against the screw ends, so I did not yet fill the tank all the way. I am looking for a five by seven inch rubber sheet to cover the back of the table mount under the seat. I will post all this information in the modification section of the H240 owners page. I can tell that she is setting lower in the water by the way the gunnels lay up against the fenders on the dock. Time will tell if the tanks hold up.  

I procured a kitchen silicone dish drying pad to place between the flexible water tank and the exposed bolt heads from the table mounting bracket. I doubled it up. I filled the tank with water and now the boat is balanced with about 216 pounds of additional ballast on each side of the cabin. She sits lower in the water as the gunnels are rubbing lower on the fenders attached to the dock. It looks like 9 mph winds and 76 degrees tomorrow on the lake. I will do a shake down if I can find a crew.  

So far the I am pleased the the boat performance. I found that the starboard tank had leaked about three fourths of the water into the bilge. It was no issue for the pump and I now have the cleanest bilge of any boat on the dock. I pulled that tank and checked for leaks. I turned out to be an O ring issue on the bottom connector. I do wish the tanks had come with caps to close the openings. After two tries I got a good seal and put the tank back under the seat. Tuesday, Jessie and I sailed from Aqualand Marina at Lake Lanier to Port Royal across the lake ( about two miles). The trip was uneventful in 12 mph winds. We had a late lunch at Pelican Pete's. Heading back on to the lake we found that the winds had picked up. We did not bother to reef but did pull the end of the boom all the way up with the topping lift so that the main would spill her wind. We were able to maintain a heading close hauled at about 20 degrees heal. Gusts would take her to 30 but pointing into the wind brought her back up. Coming about was a none event; back winding the jib pulled the bow right around. The week before Shawn and I were out in 18 mph winds with the main reefed but without the jib. We could not come about and had to jibe to change course. Mother's day we are going out with six of us but winds will only be about 4 mph. If I went back in time I would do the ballast tanks again. The bow of the boat wants to stay in the water and she has a good heavy feel to her.  

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