sailboat mast stepper

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How To Install Mast Steps

• By Don Street
• Updated: March 15, 2018

With the almost universal use of GPS and chart plotters, eyeball navigation has largely been forgotten, and in some cases, the result has been disastrous. One can argue endlessly over paper versus e-charts, but one thing’s certain: Over-reliance on electronic navigation supports the local salvagers. Note the case of a Swan 90 hard aground on the western side of Antigua’s Spithead Channel. The grounding occurred because the skipper was looking at his chart plotter rather than using eyeball navigation. The salvage and repair costs ended up in the $800,000 ballpark. If you use common sense — not heading west to enter harbors after 1500 or heading east in reef-encumbered areas before 1100 — you can cruise the Caribbean relying completely on eyeball navigation, as is proved by two stories, one from the late 1950s, the other from the early 1960s.

Marv Berning and Bill Bailey, both in their very early 20s, were crewing on Le Voyageur (now Mariette) , a 131-foot Herreshoff schooner. They saved their money, left the boat and bought a 20-foot Bequia double-ender. They installed a deck with a big hatch so they had sleeping accommodations out of the spray and rain, then took off, spending two months cruising from Bequia to St. Thomas, in the U.S. Virgin Islands .

Their navigational equipment consisted of an Esso road map that showed all the islands and a dry Boy Scout compass. To keep the compass level so it would work, they glued it to a piece of wood that they floated in a half-filled gourd whose top had been cut off. They chocked the gourd so it did not fall over; the compass needle gave them north, and they estimated the other compass points. (Note: This was in the days when all sailors had to learn to box the compass, reading off the 32 points and the quarter points!)

In the early ’60s, my yawl Iolaire departed Grenada on a one-month sail to St. Thomas. The trip was a charter, and on board was a group of six young doctors doing their medical residency at Bellevue Hospital in New York. As we reached the northwest corner of Grenada, I discovered that, because of crossed wires, our charts of the Grenadines had been left in the Grenada Yacht Club bar. Neither I, nor my 18-year-old crewmember, Ed Pionkowski, had ever sailed the Grenadines. The only guide available was my Norie and Wilson Sailing Directions for the West Indies, published in 1867. It was an excellent guide, but for the Grenadines it gave no information other than that one should hire a local pilot.

I was not willing to go back to St. George’s to pick up the charts. Instead, I told Ed to take two small cockpit cushions to the lower spreaders and secure one on each so someone on either spreader would have a comfortable seat. We had a flag halyard on the starboard spreader and rigged another on the port spreader so that no matter which tack we were on, the person on the spreader could be supplied with cold Heineken.

In my early days of chartering and exploring the eastern Caribbean, often without the aid of a detailed chart, one of my crew or I would spend a lot of time conning Iolaire from a perch up the mast.

We spent a week cruising the Grenadines and later entered the Tobago Cays from the southern entrance, a pass that today the bareboat charter managers and guide authors claim is too difficult to use. We found that if there is good light and the skipper reads carefully the sailing instructions on the back of Imray Iolaire chart B31 or B311, or the piloting directions found in Street’s Cruising Guide to the Eastern Caribbean: Martinique to Trinidad, and uses eyeball navigation with a crewmember on the foredeck or up the mast, the southern entrance is not that difficult. Eyeball navigation is much better from the bow than from the cockpit, and standing on top of the bow pulpit is better still than standing on deck. If it is a tight situation or the light is fading, a crewmember piloting from the lower spreaders makes everything clear. In my early days of chartering and exploring the eastern Caribbean, often without the aid of a detailed chart, one of my crew or I would spend a lot of time conning Iolaire from a perch up the mast. Before the late 1970s, when Imray Iolaire charts became available in the marine hardware stores throughout the eastern Caribbean, obtaining charts in the islands was extremely difficult. We ordered ours from the United States or England, and it often took six weeks for them to arrive.

When I first bought Iolaire in 1957, she had a wooden mast with external halyards, thus it was no problem to climb aloft. But over time, rig problems eventually got to me. In 1962 we lost the mast in Anegada Passage. To salvage it, we towed the spar in to Norman Island — at that time, Iolaire had a very small engine that sometimes ran — and hoisted it on deck; powered back to St. Thomas; shortened and scarfed the spar; and were out on charter 11 days later.

Then, in 1966, we lost the top 10 feet of the mast off Dominica. The engine did not run, so we came up with a jury rig and sailed back to Grenada. We averaged 5.5 knots with me, daughter Dory, 7, and a young Grenadian crew aboard.

I decided finally I’d had enough of wooden spars that had to be regularly varnished and whose glue joints let go with disastrous consequences, so I installed an aluminum mast. Even so, I maintained the external halyards, and until I reached my mid-70s, I could still climb Iolaire’s mast without the aid of a bosun’s chair.

As my red beard started going gray and sailors began to ask how old I was, I would reply, “As long as my wife looks young enough to be my daughter and I can climb to the spreaders without the aid of a bosun’s chair, I am 38 and holding!” However, when we moved Iolaire to Europe and I started sailing about the Caribbean aboard Lil’ Iolaire, a 28-foot yawl that had an aluminum mast with internal halyards, I learned that climbing such a spar is only for the young and very fit. Once I realized it was almost impossible for me to climb to the spreaders, I immediately installed mast steps. Despite being over 70, I regularly went up the rig when entering harbors and exploring. In fact, the view from the lower spreaders is great!

Given that nearly all boats now have internal halyards, anyone headed for the Caribbean should check the various catalogs, find steps that are appealing and install them at least to the lower spreaders. Rigging steps is a job that can be done by ship’s crew with the mast in the boat.

Whenever there is a tricky pilotage situation, if someone is on the lower spreaders, everything becomes crystal clear. Also, at anchor, crew who are too nervous to go aloft under sail can climb the mast via the steps and obtain wonderful views and photographs that are not visible from deck level.

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• Navigating the High Seas: A Comprehensive Guide to Sailboat Masts

Sailboat masts are the unsung heroes of the sailing world, silently supporting the sails and ensuring a smooth journey across the open waters. Whether you're a seasoned sailor or a novice, understanding the intricacies of sailboat masts is essential for a safe and enjoyable voyage. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the world of sailboat masts, discussing their types, maintenance, and everything in between. 

Types of Sailboat Masts

Sailboat masts come in various configurations, each with its advantages and drawbacks. The two primary types are keel-stepped and deck-stepped masts.

Keel-Stepped Masts

Keel-stepped masts are the most common type, extending through the deck and resting on the boat's keel. They provide excellent stability and are suitable for larger sailboats. However, they require careful maintenance to prevent water intrusion into the boat's cabin.

Deck-Stepped Masts

Deck-stepped masts rest on the deck of the boat, making them easier to install and remove. They are commonly found on smaller sailboats and are more forgiving in terms of maintenance. However, they may offer slightly less stability than keel-stepped masts.

Components of a Sailboat Mast

To understand mast maintenance better, it's essential to know the various components of a sailboat mast. The key parts include the masthead, spreaders, shrouds, and halyard sheaves.

The masthead is the topmost section of the mast, where the halyards are attached to raise and lower the sails. It also often houses instruments such as wind indicators and lights.

Spreaders and Shrouds

Spreaders are horizontal supports attached to the mast to help maintain the proper angle of the shrouds (cables or rods that provide lateral support to the mast). Properly adjusted spreaders and shrouds are crucial for mast stability and sail performance.

Mast Materials: Choosing the Right One

Sailboat masts are typically constructed from three primary materials: aluminum, wood, and carbon fiber. Each material has its unique characteristics and is suited to different sailing preferences.

Aluminum Masts

Aluminum masts are lightweight, durable, and relatively easy to maintain. They are commonly used in modern sailboats due to their cost-effectiveness and longevity.

Wooden Masts

Wooden masts, while classic and beautiful, require more maintenance than other materials. They are best suited for traditional or vintage sailboats, where aesthetics outweigh convenience.

Carbon Fiber Masts

Carbon fiber masts are the pinnacle of mast technology. They are incredibly lightweight and strong, enhancing a sailboat's performance. However, they come at a premium price.

Mast Maintenance

Proper mast maintenance is essential for safety and longevity. Regular cleaning, inspection, and addressing minor issues promptly can prevent costly repairs down the line.

Cleaning and Inspection

Regularly clean your mast to remove salt, dirt, and grime. Inspect it for signs of corrosion, wear, or damage, paying close attention to the masthead, spreaders, and shrouds.

Common Repairs and Their Costs

Common mast repairs include fixing corroded areas, replacing damaged spreaders, or repairing shrouds. The cost of repairs can vary widely, depending on the extent of the damage and the materials used.

Extending the Lifespan of Your Mast

Taking steps to prevent damage is essential. Avoid over-tightening halyards, protect your mast from UV radiation, and keep an eye on corrosion-prone areas.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

Check out our latest sailing content:

Stepping and Unstepping a Mast

Stepping and unstepping a mast is a crucial skill for any sailboat owner. This process involves removing or installing the mast on your boat. Here's a step-by-step guide for safe mast handling.

Step-by-Step Guide for Safe Mast Handling

• Gather the necessary tools and equipment.
• Disconnect all electrical and rigging connections.
• Use a crane or mast-stepping system to safely lower or raise the mast.
• Secure the mast in its proper place.
• Reconnect all electrical and rigging connections.

When and Why to Unstep a Mast

You may need to unstep your mast for various reasons, such as transporting your sailboat or performing extensive maintenance. It's crucial to follow the manufacturer's recommendations and ensure a safe unstepping process.

Sailboat Mast Boot: Protecting Your Mast

A mast boot is a simple yet effective way to protect your mast from water intrusion and damage caused by the elements. Here's what you need to know.

The Purpose of a Mast Boot

A mast boot is a flexible material that wraps around the mast at the deck level. It prevents water from entering the cabin through the mast opening, keeping your boat dry and comfortable.

Installing and Maintaining a Mast Boot

Installing a mast boot is a straightforward DIY task. Regularly inspect and replace it if you notice any signs of wear or damage.

Replacing a Sailboat Mast

Despite your best efforts in maintenance, there may come a time when you need to replace your sailboat mast. Here's what you should consider.

Signs That Your Mast Needs Replacement

Common signs include severe corrosion, structural damage, or fatigue cracks. If your mast is beyond repair, it's essential to invest in a replacement promptly.

The Cost of Mast Replacement

The cost of mast replacement can vary significantly depending on the type of mast, materials, and additional rigging needed. It's advisable to obtain multiple quotes from reputable marine professionals.

Yacht Masts: Sailing in Style

For those looking to take their sailing experience to the next level, upgrading to a yacht mast can be a game-changer.

Differences Between Sailboat and Yacht Masts

Yacht masts are typically taller and offer enhanced sail performance. They are often equipped with advanced rigging systems and technology for a more luxurious sailing experience.

Upgrading to a Yacht Mast

Consult with a marine professional to determine if upgrading to a yacht mast is feasible for your sailboat. It can be a significant investment but can transform your sailing adventures.

Sailboat Mast Steps: Climbing to the Top

Mast steps are handy additions to your mast, allowing easier access to perform maintenance or enjoy panoramic views. Here's how to use them safely.

Using Mast Steps Safely

Always use proper safety equipment when climbing mast steps. Make sure they are securely attached to the mast and regularly inspect them for wear or damage.

The Advantages of Mast Steps

Mast steps provide convenience and accessibility, making sailboat maintenance tasks more manageable. They also offer an elevated vantage point for breathtaking views while at anchor.

Mast Maintenance Tips for Beginners

If you're new to sailboat ownership, these mast maintenance tips will help you get started on the right foot.

Essential Care for First-Time Sailboat Owners

• Establish a regular maintenance schedule.
• Seek advice from experienced sailors.
• Invest in quality cleaning and maintenance products.

Preventing Common Mistakes

Avoid common pitfalls, such as neglecting inspections or using harsh cleaning agents that can damage your mast's finish.

Sailing with a Mast in Top Condition

A well-maintained mast contributes to a safer and more enjoyable sailing experience. It enhances your boat's performance and ensures you can rely on it in various weather conditions.

How a Well-Maintained Mast Improves Performance

A properly maintained mast helps maintain sail shape, reducing drag and improving speed. It also ensures that your rigging remains strong and secure.

Safety Considerations

Never compromise on safety. Regularly inspect your mast, rigging, and all associated components to prevent accidents while at sea.

Sailboat masts are the backbone of any sailing adventure, and understanding their intricacies is crucial for a successful voyage. From choosing the right mast material to proper maintenance and upgrading options, this guide has covered it all. By following these guidelines, you can sail the high seas with confidence, knowing that your mast is in top condition.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite  sailing destinations.

I am ready to help you with booking a boat for your dream vacation. Contact me.

Denisa Nguyenová

MAST MATE CLIMBING SYSTEM

The original mast ladder, made in the USA since 1989.

A Skipper’s First Mate Is Self Reliance Sailboat ladder or mast ladder that allows one to climb the mast alone for maintenance.

CLIMBING SYSTEM

Mast Mate is an alternating-step, flexible mast ladder made of 2 inch-wide nylon webbing. Each mast step is reinforced with an additional piece of webbing.The sewn tensile strength of the webbing is a minimum of 3,000 pounds.

TOOL BAG WORKBELT

The design is similar to a linesman’s belt, consisting of an adjustable waist belt with a tool bag conveniently affixed at the back and a tether strap that goes around the mast and clips back onto the opposite side of the belt…

DEAR SAILOR

Thank you for your

interest in the Mast

Mate Climbing

System…

I take pride in introducing you to Mast Mate, an efficient, single-handed, patented mast climbing device and the practical Tool Bag Workbelt. Combined, they make going aloft and working a simple, easy and, most importantly, safe experience. As a sailor, I know that going aloft is a serious matter, be it at the dock or underway. The quality of Mast Mate and the Workbelt reflect that belief.

All our mast step ladders and Tool Bag Workbelts are made in the U.S.A with quality materials and meticulous craftmanship. Whether you cruise, day sail or race, mast maintenance is a chore that cannot be overlooked. If it is, you will pay the price in time and money, or worse! Mast Mate can be rigged in five minutes and climbed in less time than that. Combined with the Workbelt securing you to the mast, small repairs like changing a bulb or fixing a wind indicator, as well as larger jobs, such as replacing shrouds or varnishing can be attended to without assistance. No more winching; no more scouting the dock for help; no more not quite being able to reach the masthead.

Over the years, we have supplied the Mast Mate Climbing System to Single Handed Transpac Racers, as well as to a number of challengers in the Ostar Races. A single hander has no one but himself to count on. I am sure you will find the Mast Mate Climbing System the best method for climbing and working aloft.

TESTIMONIALS

Thank you to Nic Morgan from “The Boat Life Blogger” for this video. His blog is fun and informative.

Please do not use the work belt as a safety harness. Use the work belt around the mast when you are in position to work.

I went up the mast using MastMate today, in order to repair the wind speed indicator.  Here are my takeaways:

Feel Free to Contact Us for More Info.

Phone Number

Be sure to add the numbers above and THEN SUBMIT! It keeps your data safe.

The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

How to Step a Mast Single-Handed With or Without Using the Boom as a Gin Pole

How do you step the mast on your trailerable sailboat? With a gin pole? With the trailer winch? With the help of friends or family? With your fingers crossed? No single system works for every sailboat or for every skipper. If you’re new to mast stepping, you don’t like your current method, or you just want to simplify or speed up the process, this post is for you. I must warn you though, this is a long post, even for me. To make it as short as possible, I’ve included five YouTube videos that show how this system works. By the end of this post, you’ll know everything about how I step the mast on Summer Dance single-handed in minutes, even on the water.

I’ll describe two ways that I step the mast, including one way that doesn’t use a gin pole at all. Both are fast and mostly use the boat’s own rigging and very little extra gear.

I’ll also explain some topics that lead up to and follow mast stepping, like how I:

• Use a DIY telescoping mast crutch for easier stepping and secure trailering.
• Tie down the mast and rigging for trailering.
• Keep my mast in tune without having to loosen and re-tighten the shroud turnbuckles to step the mast.

What do you really need?

When I started trailering Summer Dance years ago, I researched a lot about mast stepping. The Catalina 22 Owner’s Manual and General Handbook is pretty brief on the subject.

Walk the mast aft and drop the mast foot into the mast step on top of the deck, keeping the mast in center line of boat, insert the pivot bolt and locking nut. One crew member should pull on a line tied securely to the forestay while another pushes up on the mast and walks from the cockpit forward. With the mast erect, attach the forestay and forward lower shrouds.

Poorly written but pretty simple, huh? One crew member pulls on the forestay while another pushes on the mast. That’s how the mast was designed to be stepped and it works well if you’re young, strong, and there are two or more of you to do the job.

But what if you don’t normally have a second able crew member? What if you need to step the mast on the water? What if you want to lower the mast to go under a bridge? What if you or your crew have a physical impairment that prevents them from performing one of the tasks? That system may not work for you and you need an alternative. If you believe in the rule that you should have a backup for every critical part and system, then you also need a backup mast stepping plan even if you normally step the mast with the factory recommended method.

I’ve read about lots of different systems. Maybe you have too:

• Factory-built gin poles, braces, guy wires, and mast-ups
• DIY wooden gin poles with winches, bridles, and brace poles
• Blocks attached to the pulpit to reuse the trailer winch cable
• Electric winches on the trailer or in the tow vehicle
• Jumbo bungee cord connected to the forestay
• Assorted Rube Goldberg variations on all the above

They all struck me as overkill for the real problem. What do you really need once you have the mast bolted to the step? What do all of these system have in common? Some mechanical advantage to raise the mast and a way to keep it from swinging too far sideways until the shrouds tighten.

If you’ve read this blog for very long at all, you know that I’m really big on reusing or repurposing things for other uses. It’s something of a prerequisite to be a stingy sailor. If you’re lucky, it’s in your DNA and it comes easily to you. Being an armchair engineer qualifies too.

Let’s see — sailboat design is all about capturing, multiplying, and redirecting forces for mechanical advantage: the hull, keel, rudder, mast, sails, rigging, almost everything. What’s the most compact, portable piece of gear on a sailboat that creates mechanical advantage? The main sheet or the boom vang typically multiplies the force applied to it by three or four times. What are all gin poles in their most basic form? A big stick. Is there already a long, stiff, portable, stick onboard? The boom. Can we raise and lower the mast single-handed with the main sheet and the boom?

As it turns out, it’s really pretty easy to do. But it’s not very easy to describe in words, so rather than write an entire book about it, I’ve made a series of short videos that each show a different aspect of my mast stepping system. I’ll give you an overview of each aspect in the text below but to really get it, you should watch the videos.

Getting it to the water

Besides being simpler, one of the basic principles of this system is to make launching and retrieving the boat as quick as possible while also being safe. That starts with securing the mast and rigging for trailering. For me, it has to be secure enough to tow for a hundred miles over bumpy state highways and county backroads to my favorite cruising spots. This is in north Idaho, mind you, which is relatively remote compared to the Florida coast or southern California.

I use a combination of DIY mast supports, motorcycle straps, and inexpensive ball cords to secure the rig. The mast is supported on both ends and in the middle. This follows closely the Catalina 22 Owner’s Manual and General Handbook  recommendation.

Tie the mast and boom securely to the bow and stern pulpits. The spars should also be supported in the middle by the cabin top. Pad the mast at all contact points to prevent damage.

No tools or knot tying are needed for my system and any one of them works in seconds and stows easily either onboard or in my pickup.

Here’s a tour of the rig tied down just before I step the mast.

The previous video mentions my DIY mast stepper, also called a Mastup by a popular online Catalina parts retailer. I haven’t yet devoted a blog post to it but it was pretty easy to make. If you’re interested in a fabrication drawing and materials list, keep reading to the end of this post and a special offer.

I bought the steel myself from the cutoff pile at a local metal distributor. I took the metal and my drawing to a local welder who advertised on craigslist.com. I painted and assembled it myself. The total cost was half the price of the commercial version and in some ways, works even better. I especially like the D rings, which make it simple to secure the top of the mast stepper to the aft mooring cleats while trailering. It holds the mast very solid that way. And because the pintles are welded in place instead of adjustable, they can’t accidentally loosen and drop the mast.

Following is a close-up video of just the mast stepper. You can see it in action in the last two videos.

Setting up the boom as a gin pole

The  basic theory of a gin pole is to lift a heavy object below one end while it remains stationary at the other end. Support lines called guys position the lifting end over the object that is raised. A mast raising gin pole has one end stationary near the base of the mast, uses the forestay to support the lifting end, and uses a winch or a block and tackle to theoretically raise the bow of the sailboat to the end of the gin pole. In reality, the bow stays stationary and the entire gin pole system including its base (the mast) are raised towards the bow.

Most C-22 gin poles use one of two methods to attach the gin pole to the mast:

• A peg on one end of the pole that fits in a hole in the mast (the factory system for 2nd generation C-22s)
• A saddle on the end of the gin pole that fits around and is strapped to the mast (most DIY systems)

Neither of those gin poles serve any purpose after the mast is raised. They’re useless extra weight that takes extra storage space.

The system I use attaches using a small right angle bracket. I fabricated it out of a piece of scrap aluminum I already had. One side of the bracket is bolted through the mast step and the cabin top in front of the mast. The other side the bracket points upward and has a 1/4″ hole through it to act as a hinge for the gooseneck (stationary lower) end of the boom. If you’re a follower of this blog and have the password, you can find a scale drawing of this bracket on the Downloads page.

I connect the gooseneck fitting to the bracket with the same quick pin (drop cam or toggling bimini type) that I use to connect the gooseneck fitting to the mast slide while sailing. The pin is tethered to the boom with a stainless steel lanyard so it can’t get lost and it’s always near at hand.

I connect the forestay to a shackle on the top side of the (upper) end of the boom. On the opposite (bottom) side of the boom from the forestay, I connect the end of my main sheet tackle that doesn’t have the cam cleat. This is the same configuration as when the main sheet is attached for sailing. I connect the other end of the main sheet (that’s normally attached to the traveler car) to the stem plate where the forestay is normally attached.

To hold the boom vertical during raising, I sometimes use two pieces of pre-tied accessory cord. They connect to the sides of the boom with clips through the eye straps where my boom topping lift and jiffy reefing lines attach. The other ends of the cords have loops tied into them that I tie to the upper ends of the midship lifeline stanchions with girth (cow) hitches. The mast step is nearly in-line with the tops of the stanchions, so the cords rotate around the same pivot point as the mast and the boom.

If your sailboat doesn’t have the same style of gooseneck fitting as a Catalina 22 or you can’t use your boom for some other reason but you do have a spinnaker pole, you might be able to use it instead as this picture from a Westerly 21 owner shows. This picture also shows that a gin pole can be a great help with lifting the extra weight added by a furler.

That’s kind of hard to visualize, so here’s a short video that takes you on a tour of the setup.

This is a stickup with a boom!

After I rig the boom like shown above, the hard part is over. The rest is just pulling the main sheet with one hand while I steady the mast with my other hand. I also watch the stays and shrouds to be sure they don’t catch on anything as they raise off the deck.

With the main sheet cam cleat at the stem plate, I can easily stop raising the mast at any point, cleat the line with a sharp tug, and then clear snags or move to a better lifting position. Then I uncleat the main sheet at the stem plate first and hold light tension on the main sheet while I get into position to resume raising the mast.

The mast only needs to be held centered until it reaches about a 45° angle. Then the upper shrouds begin to tighten and they hold it centered the rest of the way up.

When the mast is vertical, I reconnect the forestay and forward lower shrouds using quick release levers . The mast is back in tune and requires no further adjustment. I disconnect the boom from the system and attach it in its normal place between the mast slide and the topping lift or backstay pendant. I disconnect the main sheet and attach it to the traveler car. All I need to put away are the two accessory cords if I used them, which I typically only do when it’s windy, when I’m setting up in a unlevel area, or on the water when its choppy.

Here’s a video showing the entire process completed in about 4 and a half leisurely minutes.

Single-handed speed stepping

In good conditions (light breeze, level area, or calm water), I skip over using the boom as a gin pole entirely and just use the main sheet to pull the mast up by the forestay. It saves several minutes and is nearly as easy to do but you should be fitter than average to attempt it. It’s the single-handed equivalent of having a crew member in front of the boat pull a line attached to the forestay. Bystanders seem to enjoy watching me raise the mast by myself in seconds.

Here’s what it looks like when it’s done on the water.

Back to the beginning

At the end of a road trip, I never look forward to tearing down  Summer Dance , pulling her out of the water, and tying her down for the ride home. I’ve had a great time but I’m tired and there’s many miles to go before I sleep. I don’t want to spend an hour lowering the mast and tying the rig down. I want it to be quick and simple.

Almost always, I lower the mast without using the boom as a gin pole even if I raised it that way. A gin pole is just not usually necessary so long as the mast comes down slow enough and lands in the crutch. You might not want to do it that way your first few times, so here’s what it looks like using the boom as a gin pole.

Then I tie it all down in a few minutes like shown in the first video.

Special offer for blog followers

Whew! That’s a lot of info. If you stuck with me through it, I really appreciate it. I want to thank you by offering not one, but two free bonuses to my blog followers.

The first is the launch checklist that I use to prepare and launch Summer Dance . It’s two pages of items that can help make sure you don’t forget something important for your next cruise — everything from an umbrella for the first mate while she waits for you to step the mast, to step-by-step instructions that you can have on deck for the gin pole method described above. Use it as a starting point to add and remove items to make your own checklist.

The second bonus is a dimensioned drawing and materials list for my DIY mast crutch that is described at the beginning of this post. Use it to build your own and save some money for something else.

If you’re already a subscriber to this blog, you can download both of the free bonuses from my Downloads page using the password that you received when you subscribed. If you’re not already a subscribed to this blog, sign up and you’ll join the thousands of other stingy sailors. Just enter your email address in the box at the bottom of this page and then click the Subscribe  button. You can unsubscribe at any time and I won’t share your address with anyone, ever.

I hope you’ve picked up some tips from this post that you can use to optimize your mast stepping system and spend more time on the water.

Would you like to be notified when I publish more posts like this? Enter your email address below to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. You will also receive occasional newsletters with exclusive info and deals only for followers and the password to the Downloads page. It’s free and you can unsubscribe at any time but almost nobody does!

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58 thoughts on “ how to step a mast single-handed with or without using the boom as a gin pole ”.

Love your vids on raising mast. Could you send a pic of quick release on forward shrouds and forstay and the pin you spoke of in vid.

Stay tuned here for a separate post on the quick releases and maintaining mast tune that’s coming soon!

I like the idea of using PVC tube & fence to make mast supports.

Just some scraps I had on hand; lightweight, strong, and they don’t look too ghetto.

Hey $tingy,

Thanks for another great post.

You mention the newsletter. I am definitely a long time blog follower, and look forward to every post, but I have never gotten a newsletter. Could you add me to whatever email list you use? I don’t want to miss any more.

Hi, CapnRehab

You weren’t receiving the newsletter initially because you’re a WordPress user so if you follow, my posts should show up in your Reader list instead of by email. But I added your email address to the newsletter recipient list back on May 11. The last newsletter went out on May 21 titled What’s Your Favorite DIY Project? Did you get that one? I’ll probably shoot out the next one at the end of the month. If you don’t get it, I don’t know what more I can do on my end.

Brilliant repurpose of mainsheet. I’ve struggled with this procedure for years, just man-handling it up there. Can’t wait to try this!

I hope it works for you. Let me know how it goes!

For mast raising and lowering, I have it a little easier with a 16ft boat, and can raise the mast single handed juat by manually lifting and walking forward in the cockpit and onto the keel case with the hatch slid forward, although I usually have my wife tension the forestay for some extra assurance.

I like your use of the “ball ties” for securing the rigging on the trailer. I usually use the halyards to tie everything up, but that takes more time than it should. I use some “sail ties” which are very similar to your ball ties to secure the sail on the boom and the boom is stowed inside the cabin. I think I will either get some more sail ties for securing the rigging on the trailer, or make up some velcro webbing straps. At the bow, my mast is tied down using my bowline and the DIY timber A frame mast crutch tied down at the rear with a rope tied to cleats on either side of the transom. The boat is held to the trailer using a stern ratchet strap and a turnbuckle on the bow, and the winch cable attached.

I really like the idea of using the boom as a gin pole. Brilliant. I wonder if you could post a picture of the L-shaped aluminum bracket that you fabricated and how it is attached to the boom? Making that may be the tricky part for me to get this thing. I could not really see a clear picture of it in your videos. Thanks!

I’ll add a close-up shot of it soon.

I added a close-up picture of the hinge bracket about midway through the post.

Excellent blog and report. I struggle with the mast raising and have an assistant. I will give your system a try. I finally understand the function of a gin pole and how to use it.

That’s awesome, Richie. I’m really glad it helped. In the case of a sailboat, it’s just a long, temporary lever. Aha moments are great!

Excellent report and diagram on the mast stepper. What would you think about using aluminum to build it instead of steel?

I think aluminum would work great so long as the wall thickness of the tubes is adequate. You wouldn’t need to be concerned about painting or rust. The critical area is where the outer tube overlaps the inner tube when the crutch is extended. Depending on how close the fit is and how much overlap, when you’re rolling the mast back to set it in the step, there can be considerable strain on that “joint.” A thin wall or soft aluminum might deform so make it beefy there.

Thanks for your comment, Michael!

I spoke to my fabricator friend about using aluminum and, him not knowing about the stepping process was most concerned about the hinges holding weight while trailering over the road. He also suggested using a beefier thickness if choosing aluminum just like your suggestion.

thanks for all you do!!!

The gudgeons can easily handle the weight so long as the pintles on the crutch are sturdy.

Send us a good picture of the final product and I’ll add it at the end of the post as an example!

Great post. Just started following your site. You have a lot of good projects on here. Where did you find such thin-walled square tubing for your mast stepper? All I can find is telescoping 1-3/4 & 1″ tubing. I don’t think I need that much strength or weight. Also, I receive the posts by e-mail but I never received the password for the download section. Thanks

There are a couple of industrial metal suppliers in my area that sell their cut-offs retail to the public by the pound. One of them also sells small quantities of standard sizes. I found all the sizes I needed with very little cutting. You definitely don’t need much strength and as little weight as possible. Aluminum would be even better if you can get it welded.

I’ll send you the password by email.

Thanks for your question.

I really like the simplicity of raising the mast without a gin pole. I use a gin pole now but prefer a simpler approach. How to you lower your mast? Do you use your mainsheet tackle when lowering? Thanks for the great video.. Jim Mathews

That’s right, Jim. I lower the mast by the same method but in reverse, which helps to remember the steps in both directions.

Thanks for your question!

Hi. I’m making the mast crutch and downloaded the drawing. How far down is the second hole in the 1″ tubing? ie. the hole where I would put the lock pin when the crutch is raised. Thanks.

That’s an excellent question, Jim, since it wasn’t shown on the drawing. I’ve since revised the drawing to show the hole 2″ up from the bottom of the inner tube.

The distance isn’t critical but depending on how tight the fit is between the inner and the outer tube, the hole might work better even farther up the inner tube. Try it at 2″ and if the top tube is too loose for you and it wobbles around, drill another hole farther up the inner tube, say at 4″ and try that. The mast will sit 2″ lower but it shouldn’t affect how you step the mast other than by making the crutch sturdier. Then you will have two holes to choose from. You can even drill more holes at different heights for different purposes.

Hi Thanks for the blog. Some pretty interesting ideas here, I’m borrowing some, especially related to the sails… Seeing your “system” to step the mast, I’m trying to adapt it to my boat, a ’82 French Rocca Super Chausey. The mast step has no pin to lock to the mast foot, it just falls into place between two pins that limit its longitudinal travel. Hence, nothing for the mast to pivot on. Any thoughts on how I could achieve that effect? Thanks.

If you have the tools and the ambition, you could replace your existing tabernacle with a custom made pivoting one. Find a piece of heavy gauge aluminum channel that you can cut into a shape similar to the C-22 tabernacle shown in the picture above. The channel should be just wide enough for the mast to sit into and the height a couple of inches. Cut slots in the sides for the through bolt to slide up and down. Cut the channel long enough and drill holes in the bottom of the channel to fit your existing deck bolts.

Then drill a hole through the base of the mast to accept the through bolt. It should be close to the bottom of the mast, 1/4″-1/2″ from the bottom. Angle the aft edge of the end of the mast so that it will rotate without binding in both directions. As it rotates backward during unstepping, the bottom end of the mast and the through bolt should ride up in the slots. Put a wingnut on the end of the through bolt for easy removal and you’ve got a pivoting mast.

If you don’t have the resources to make one yourself, maybe you can find a friend or a metal fabricator to help.

Good luck with your projects and thanks for your question! $tingy

When installing the gin pole hinge bracket you drill through the cabin roof. Have you experienced any water penetration through this hole?

I sealed the plate and hole perimeters with butyl tape, so no problems.

Wow! Love the post and videos!! So clear and easy to follow. I’m going to try this for my Columbia 8.3. I tried to follow you but got an error code. Can you manually add me, please?

Please try following again and if the error repeats, send me the text or a screenshot of the error so I can investigate.

My Venture 21 tabernacle and mast look like yours (sans the plate for your swivel blocks) and I have often wondered if there is wear on the trailing edge of the mast foot after repeated raising/lowering? Or does yours have some reinforcement?

Also, have you ever noticed the boom baby stays pulling too much on the stantions? I wonder if mounting the ropes at the base would be less apt to damage them if the mast were to go somewhat off-center (to the exrent the upper shrouds allowed)?

Love your site. I shared the 2017 DIY competition on Small Craft Advisor Magazine’s Facebook page and I noticed the 10 most popular projects link…most of which are on my to-do list!

There is a tiny bit of wear after 36 years but not enough to matter. Tying the baby stays to the stanchion bases would be more solid but then their pivot points would be too low. The reason that I tie them up at the top of the stanchions is so that the baby stays keep in relatively constant tension throughout the range of motion of the mast/boom. They’re almost perfectly aligned with the tabernacle. The stanchions aren’t in much danger because the boom doesn’t weight much and it can’t wander very far at all since it’s held in tension between the forestay (running aft) and the main sheet (running forward). They really just help to hold the boom vertical while you’re setting the system up until you begin to raise the mast. The mast can wander side to side some until its raised about halfway, then the upper shrouds come taught and keep it centered.

Thanks for the share!

Your site has been a tremendous help and inspiration for me and my 1988 Cat 22. My mast step has welded loops fore and aft. Can you suggest a structurally sound way to secure the boom to the loop for lifting/lowering?

Link showing the step: http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/345_18/mast-step-c-22-cp-22brcp-18-wwelded-vang-loop.cfm

Hello, KGUNN

Since the loop is perpendicular to the line of the mast/boom rotation, it won’t work well using only off the shelf parts. I suggest you consider mounting a tang like the Garhauer BT-1 to the bottom of the mast instead. You can pin the boom to it similar to how I do it to my bracket. The boom will then rotate with the mast as it raises and lowers.

Great suggestion. Thanks!

Hmmm, this asks more questions for than answers. I don’t have the lower stays, nor do I have any of the attachment point on the mast that I can see. The thing is the boat is smaller 20′ vs 22′ I have no lifelines nor a rear rail, walking down the side of the boat would be a challange, never mind running lines while doing so. The mini stays have no place to attach to. Not sure how to go about raising the mast without help…even with this setup…

A smaller sailboat could indeed be trickier to step the mast single-handed since it has less rigging to aid the process. If you’re not committed to perfecting a single-handed technique, I’d suggest you consider a two-handed process with one crew member in the cockpit to steady the mast laterally while the second crew member pulls the mast up by the forestay or foresail halyard from the bow or on the ground in front of the bow. A mast crutch would also help in that case. Otherwise, you might be looking at extensive fabrications or commercial mast stepping hardware with a winch.

Where there’s a will, there’s a way!

How could your system be used with a furling 150 genoa on a Catalina 25?

Hello, Thomas

It could be used in a similar way on your C-25 with a couple of adjustments. First, your mast is longer and heavier than a C-22 so I would always use the boom as a gin pole. You’ll need the leverage for the extra weight, especially with the addition of the furler. Second and more importantly, you’d need to lift the furler as well as the mast somehow. I’d suggest using a main or spinnaker halyard to hold the mast and furler together. Wrap it around them from top to bottom before you lower the mast, then handle them as one unit until after you raise the mast again and unwrap the halyard to reconnect the forestay/furler. Use the jib halyard with its working end securely tied off instead of the forestay to connect the masthead to the boom/gin pole. The rest of the process would work the same.

Stay tuned because I’ll be publishing a post soon about choosing and using a furler with a trailerable sailboat.

Appreciate your reply Stingy. I need to carefully review your technique but it seems one’s boom would remain upward; although I’m sure you lower it when finished? Sorry for my ignorance. I’m also looking at the idea from the clever MacGregor 26 mast raising pole that uses a winch on the pole with baby stays with a special one to automatically keep the lowered furler up off the deck. I read about it on TropicalBoating ( https://www.tropicalboating.com/2010/04/the-perfect-solo-mast-raising-system-for-small-sailboats ). I’ll have a look at your mast crutch but I can’t use the gudgeons for the rudder as I’ll need to motor over to the Cave Run Lake (KY) boat launch for the haul out. Thanks!!

Winch-powered mast raising systems are a good choice for owners with impaired physical abilities. I might have to resort to one as I get older and am not able to do everything I once could. Beats giving up sailing!

One needs to attach a mast bail with the MacGregor 26 solo mast stepping system. I’m reluctant to drill into the mast though. This is my first cruiser (purchased in July) and I’ve much to learn from your blog. I was only introduced to sailing two years ago when I bought a Sunfish.

My C-25 teak companionway/hatchboards need replacement after 20 years, probably all standing rigging needs replacement even though it all looks fine at deck level (in the Lake continuously since ‘08), etc., etc. I pulled two through hull Airmar transducers out to check them and found only thin layer of algae on them – tells me the lake water has been very clean. The old KVH display is dead so I’ll switch it out (plugging holes with marine plastic and epoxy) with a new RayMarine i40.

I see that the boom is removed of course in your video. I also see the stress on the mast crutch essentially dictates one use the transom gudgeons for support. I had thought I could use 1” pipe secured to the stanchions but then there would not be enough telescoping height available either. You’ve devised a very clever approach- I’ve never remounted my boom so will need how I can attach it to the fore ring on the step plate.

You might consider modifying my crutch design so that the bottom end rests in the cockpit sole forward of the transom instead of on the rudder gudgeons. It would probably need additional support or to be fastened to the mast to keep it from falling over. Offset to one side a little, you should still be able to use your rudder to steer. That, or use the outboard tiller instead of the rudder to get to the ramp if you can. I do that sometimes.

Just what I have been looking for to give me some information to guide me in raising and lowering the mast for maintenance on my 26 foot Grampian without the expensive use of a crane this spring.

Hi, I like your idea of the mast raising system without a gin pole. Does your block & tackle include a ratchet or brake? Thanks!

Hello, Laura

Since I use my mainsheet tackle, no, but if you want to use a separate tackle, that would be a good idea.

Thanks, $tingy

Sure beats my system of using 2 sons to help out, they’re never around when you need them !

Thanks for the video on the no pole lift, that’s pretty much how I need to do it though I usually am working on the hard before getting a lift in.

I have tried raising the mast as you show in the video. I have the same quick release. But when I try to lift the mast with the forstay can’t do. I’m wondering maybe your mast is lighter or do I have the wrong set up to raise mast. I have the mast step which I can raise for a better angle…but it’s not happening.

Hello, Mark

Are you using a gin pole or trying to lift it only by the forestay? Either way, it takes quite a bit of strength to get the mast up that first few feet since you’re not pulling directly vertically on the masthead. If you’re not able to do it by yourself, you might need a helper for at least that part of the setup.

Dear sir My name is Mark Monteverdi. I have followed your web site for a while…and always turned out good. I have looked at the mast rising video countless times. I have the quick release for the shrouds. I’m guessing you are using a basic vang ? Well either I’m very weak or i have the vang set up incorrect or my mast is made of different material …when i go to raise my mast it will fall off to one side it just feels as though I’m pulling a truck up a hill. If you would be kind enough to send a pic of what ever type of pulley system i would greatly appreciate that very much. It’s hard to get any one to go sailing with me and that’s more just so i have some one to push and one work the winch. Thank you Mark

I’m sorry to hear you’re having trouble. When raising or lowering my mast, it too will tend to swing to one side or the other until it’s about half way up and the upper shrouds tighten and hold it centered the rest of the way up. That’s why I always have at least one hand on the mast to keep it centered during the lower half of the lift. I use the standard C-22 main sheet tackle which has a 3:1 mechanical advantage. You could use a stronger tackle (try 4:1) if you need the additional lifting power. You can see the whole main sheet in the video in Quit Spending Setup Time on Turnbuckles .

Hope that helps, $tingy

Hi Stingy Sailor, First of all, thanks for all your tips, tricks, and videos. Your site is awesome and very helpful! I have a C-25 with swing keel so most of all your tips are applicable, very nice, and handy. I really like your mast securing device located at the bow for trailering; easy and simple. I was wondering if you do have the drawings available for it so I could use it to build my own? Thanks! Alex

I did not make a fabrication drawing for the pulpit saddle because of the complex angles of the railing cutouts. Most readers wouldn’t be able to cut them accurate enough, so it’s a trial and error fit. Lay your material centered across the top of the pulpit, trace the railing edges onto the underside of the material, then cut a little at a time until the saddle sits down securely over the rails. Do the same with the mast on top of your material and you’re done.

Good morning, what a beautiful boat you have there ! that is an ingenious way to raise a mast,nice work ! I am curious about what the black,plastic/rubber item is that looks like it’s attached to the stern rail by the mast crutch @ 2:45 of the first video Please respond because my curiosity is killing me because I don’t get it. Thanks, Mick

You can read all about it in Add a Solar-Powered Flood Light in Your Cockpit .

Hi! I just subscribed to your blog, and I’d like the instructions for building a mast crutch like yours. Wasn’t sure whether that would be sent out automatically, or whether I needed to specifically ask for them. Thanks!

Lenny, You can find a dimensioned drawing of the mast crutch on my Downloads page if you’re a subscriber. The password to open that page was sent to you when you subscribed. $tingy

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Description.

The Hobie Mast Stepper II is easy to install because it eliminates the trailer mounted gin pole. However, the Mast Stepper II system does require that the trailer's forward mast support be 30" taller than the mast step and an existing winch. Setup also requires a set of trapeze wires (not included). The mast is stabilized by tying a trap wire on each side to the front cross bar. The kit includes all necessary lines, shackles, blocks and instructions. Purchase winch separately. Recommended for Wave, Getaway, Hobie 14, Hobie 16, or Hobie 17 catamarans.

• Easy to use Mast Stepper from Hobie Cat
• Recommend for Wave, Getaway, Hobie 14, Hobie 16, and Hobie 17
• Does not include mast stand or winch
• Does not include trapeze wires, which are required for proper use
• Installation Instructions

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Sailboat Mast: A Comprehensive Guide to Understanding and Maintaining

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 14, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

== Short answer: Sailboat mast == A sailboat mast is a vertical pole or spar that supports the sails of a sailboat. It provides structural stability and allows for adjustment of the sail position to effectively harness wind power. Typically made of aluminum or carbon fiber, mast design varies based on boat size, sailing conditions, and intended use.

The Sailboat Mast: A Comprehensive Guide for Beginners

Title: The Sailboat Mast: A Comprehensive Guide for Beginners

Introduction: Ah, the majestic sailboat mast! Like the beating heart of a ship, it stands tall and proud, guiding us through the vast ocean. But what does it actually do? How does it work its magic to harness the power of wind and propel us across water? In this comprehensive guide for beginners, we’ll dive deep into the world of sailboat masts to unravel their secrets and discover why they are indeed a sailor’s best friend.

1. Anatomy of a Sailboat Mast: To understand how a sailboat mast functions, let’s start by dissecting its anatomy. The mast consists of several essential components such as: – Luff track: This vertical groove allows the mainsail to slide up or down smoothly. – Spreaders: These diagonal bars help strengthen and stabilize the mast. – Shrouds and stays: These supportive cables hold the mast in position while also countering sideways forces. – Sheave boxes: Found at strategic points on the mast, these small wheel-like mechanisms assist with hoisting sails or other rigging tasks. By familiarizing ourselves with these various parts, we can appreciate how each plays a crucial role in maintaining balance and stability.

2. Materials Matter: Masts can be constructed from different materials including wood, aluminum alloy, carbon fiber composite, or even stainless steel. While wooden masts exude classic charm, modern technologies have introduced lighter options like carbon fiber that enhance performance and durability. The choice of material depends on factors such as boat size, sailing purpose (racing or cruising), budget constraints, and personal preferences.

3. Setting Sail: Hoisting Techniques Hoisting your sails is an art in itself – a symphony between wind and rigging systems. When raising your main sail, you can rely on either external halyards run externally to pulleys at deck level or internal halyards hidden inside the mast. The former allows for easy maintenance and inspection, whereas the latter provides a sleeker aesthetic appeal. Whichever method you choose, proper hoisting techniques are crucial to avoid tangling or jamming.

4. Sail Control: Mast Dynamics Understanding how the sail interacts with the mast is essential for optimizing performance. Controlling sail shape is achieved through tensioning and releasing various lines such as halyards, cunninghams, and outhauls. These adjustments influence mast bend, which in turn affects the distribution of power and aerodynamic efficiency of your sails. A well-tuned mast ensures efficient sailing in different wind conditions.

5. Stepping Up: Installing a Sailboat Mast Stepping a mast may provoke anxiety among beginners, but fear not! With careful planning and some assistance, it can be an invigorating part of preparing your sailboat for action. From proper alignment to securely attaching shrouds and stays, following step-by-step procedures helps avoid mishaps during this critical process.

6. Maintenance Matters: Regular maintenance extends the lifespan of your sailboat mast while ensuring safety on the water. Frequent inspections for corrosion, cracks, or loose fittings are essential. Additionally, lubricating moving parts like sheaves and checking tension in standing rigging help guarantee smooth sailing adventures.

Conclusion: Congratulations! As you reach the end of this comprehensive guide on sailboat masts, you’ve gained invaluable insights into their anatomy, materials used in construction, hoisting techniques, dynamics correlation with sails – all topped off with stepping tips and maintenance reminders. Now equipped with this knowledge foundation, novice sailors can embark confidently upon their seafaring journeys armed with an understanding of just how crucial the majestic sailboat mast truly is – a steadfast partner harnessing wind power while propelling us towards endless maritime horizons!

How to Choose the Perfect Sailboat Mast for Your Vessel

When it comes to sailing, one of the most crucial components of your vessel is undoubtedly the sailboat mast. It serves as the backbone and lifeline of your boat, allowing you to harness the power of the wind and navigate through the vast open waters. Choosing the perfect sailboat mast is not a decision to be taken lightly; it requires careful consideration of various factors to ensure optimal performance and safety.

Firstly, before delving into the specifics, it’s important to understand that sailboat masts come in different materials, each with its unique set of characteristics. The most common options are aluminum and carbon fiber. While aluminum masts offer durability at a lower cost, carbon fiber masts are lighter and stiffer, providing enhanced performance on the water.

Now let’s embark on our journey to select the ideal sailboat mast for your vessel! The first crucial factor to consider is your boat’s size and weight. A larger, heavier vessel would require a mast with greater strength and rigidity to withstand increased loads from larger sails. On the other hand, smaller boats may benefit from a lighter mast that allows for more flexibility in sail adjustments.

Next up is understanding your sailing goals – are you more inclined towards leisurely cruising or competitive racing? If you’re an avid racer seeking top-notch performance, a carbon fiber mast might be your best bet due to its stiffness and superior response to wind conditions. However, if you prioritize comfort and relaxation during casual sailing trips, an aluminum mast could provide suitable stability without compromising on enjoyment.

Another aspect not to be overlooked is ease of maintenance. Aluminum masts generally require less upkeep compared to their carbon counterparts as they are less prone to damage from UV rays or accidental impacts. Carbon fiber masts demand regular inspection for any signs of wear or stress fractures since they can’t handle excessive bending or compression forces as well as aluminum.

Moreover, think about where you’ll primarily be sailing – will it be in open, unrestricted waters or areas with low bridges and height restrictions? Mast height plays a significant role here. Ensure your chosen mast fits within the clearance limits to avoid any unpleasant surprises during your journeys.

Sailboat masts come in various configurations, including single-spreader, double-spreader, and even triple-spreader setups. The number of spreaders – horizontal struts that help support the mast – affects overall stability and rigging options. Generally, single-spreader masts are easier to handle for casual sailors, while double or triple spreads offer higher performance but demand more meticulous tuning.

Lastly, it’s worth noting that the perfect sailboat mast doesn’t necessarily mean splurging on the most expensive option available. A comprehensive comparison of prices and features from different manufacturers can lead you to an ideal balance between affordability and quality.

At this point in our mast-selection odyssey, you should have a clearer picture of what to consider when choosing the perfect sailboat mast for your vessel. Remember to evaluate factors such as materials (aluminum vs. carbon fiber), boat size/weight, sailing goals (cruising vs. racing), maintenance requirements, clearance restrictions, spreader configuration, and cost-effectiveness.

Now set sail confidently with a mast tailored precisely to meet your vessel’s needs and embark on countless unforgettable nautical adventures! Bon voyage!

Step-by-Step Installation of a Sailboat Mast: A Beginner’s Guide

Are you a sailing enthusiast who has always been fascinated by the graceful movement of sailboats gliding through the water? Do you dream of owning your own sailboat and embarking on exciting adventures in the open sea? If so, then one of the essential skills you need to acquire is how to install a mast on a sailboat. In this beginner’s guide, we will walk you through the process step-by-step, ensuring that even if you have never done it before, you will be able to tackle this task with confidence and expertise.

1. Tools and Preparation: First things first – gather all the necessary tools for the job. You will need a crane or hoist (if available), a torque wrench, mast wedges, shims, sail track lubricant, an adjustable wrench or socket set, and plenty of patience! Before starting the installation, ensure that both your boat deck and mast are clean and free from dirt or debris.

2. Preparing the Mast Step: The mast step is where your mast rests on your boat deck. Start by inspecting it thoroughly for any damage or wear that may compromise its integrity. If needed, reinforce or repair it before proceeding further. Place mast wedges under the front part of the mast step to act as support when installing.

3. Attach Necessary Fittings: Now it’s time to attach various fittings onto your mast which are crucial for rigging control lines and sails effectively. These include halyard sheaves (for raising and lowering sails), spreader brackets (providing horizontal support), and any other attachments specific to your sailboat model.

4. Hoisting with Precision: Here comes the exciting part – hoisting your sailboat mast into position! Ideally, use a crane or hoist designed explicitly for this purpose so that you can easily control its vertical movement while minimizing the risk of damage. Carefully guide the mast toward the mast step, ensuring it is centered and aligned correctly.

5. Adjusting for Precision: Once your mast is in place, it’s time to make fine adjustments to ensure its vertical alignment. Use shims or wedges as necessary to eliminate any gaps between the mast and mast step. This step is crucial as it ensures that your sailboat will perform optimally on the water without any unnecessary stress on either the mast or your rigging.

6. Securing with Confidence: Now that your mast is perfectly aligned, it’s time to secure it in place. Start by cautiously tightening the bolts on each side of the base using an adjustable wrench or socket set. Remember not to overtighten, as this can potentially damage both your boat and mast. Once done, check all fittings once again and confirm they are securely attached.

7. Lubrication for Smooth Sailing: To ensure flawless movement of your sails along the track, apply a suitable sail track lubricant generously over your sail track after installation while closely following manufacturer guidelines. This lubrication will minimize friction when hoisting or lowering sails, resulting in a smoother sailing experience overall.

Congratulations! You have successfully installed a sailboat mast from start to finish! By following these step-by-step instructions with patience, attention to detail, and our witty guidance, you have gained valuable knowledge that will enable you to embark on countless sailing adventures confidently.

However, always remember that safety should be your number one priority whenever working with equipment related to sailing vessels. If at any point you feel unsure or overwhelmed during this installation process, do not hesitate to seek professional assistance from an experienced sailor or marine technician who can offer guidance specific to your sailboat model.

With newfound expertise in installing masts and pursuing many thrilling sea voyages ahead, set forth with confidence into uncharted waters – bon voyage!

Common FAQs about Sailboat Masts Answered

Sailing enthusiasts often find themselves captivated by the majestic beauty of sailboats gliding through the water. One key component that allows these vessels to harness the power of wind is the sailboat mast. However, many individuals who are new to sailing may have questions about masts and their importance in sailing. In this blog post, we aim to provide detailed and professional answers to some common FAQs about sailboat masts while injecting a touch of wit and cleverness along the way.

1. What is a sailboat mast? Ah, the central pillar of sailing prowess! A sailboat mast is essentially a vertical structure that stands tall and proud on a vessel, supporting the sails and imparting stability to your seafaring adventure. Think of it as the backbone upon which your nautical dreams come to life!

2. Why is choosing the right mast crucial for efficient sailing? Picture this: you’re in command of your trusty sailboat, ready to conquer the sea’s vast playground. But alas! Your hasty choice of an ill-suited mast has left you floundering like a fish out of water! The right mast offers optimal rigidity, balance, and strength necessary for efficient navigation regardless of wind conditions or sea state.

3. Aluminum or carbon fiber? Which material reigns supreme for masts? Ah, here lies one’s decision-making predicament! Does one opt for aluminum – sturdy like an old lighthouse but slightly heavier? Or does one embrace carbon fiber – lightweight as an albatross feather yet remarkably robust? Both materials have their merits; therefore, choosing between them boils down to personal preference and intended usage.

4. Can I upgrade my existing mast without breaking the bank? Fear not, fellow mariner! While pursuing that luxurious upgrade might conjure images of treasure chests filled with gold doubloons disappearing into Davy Jones’ locker, there are cost-effective options available. Opt for used masts in good condition, or explore local sailing communities where fellow sailors may be willing to part with their old but serviceable masts.

5. How can I ensure proper maintenance of my sailboat mast? Ahoy, matey! Maintenance is the key to keeping your mast shipshape and preventing any unwanted surprises on your voyage. Regular inspections for cracks, corrosion, or loose fittings are akin to swabbing your deck – tedious yet necessary. Additionally, ensuring proper storage and protecting your mast from harsh elements will keep it standing tall through the test of time!

6. Can a damaged mast be repaired or must it walk the plank? Nay, despair not as all hope is not lost! In cases of minor damage like small cracks or dings – worry not! Reliable craftsmen specializing in mast repairs can work their magic and have your trusty companion primed to conquer the waves once more. However, in more severe instances of structural compromise, replacing the mast might be the only option left.

7. How do I decipher the mysterious language of sailboat mast measurements? Approach ye with careful study, for understanding these mystifying dimensions requires an astute mind! Height measured from deck to tip (known as height aloft), length along its backside (called luff measurement), and even diameter play a significant role in determining compatibility with your vessel’s rigging system. Consult experts fluent in this ancient tongue to avoid any discrepancies on your nautical journey!

In summary, sailboat masts are no mere aesthetic addition; they are essential components that provide stability and sailing prowess to vessels at sea. Choosing the right material and maintaining them diligently ensures smooth sailing adventures without scuppering one’s budget. So set your sights high, dear reader, for these answers shall guide you towards a more enlightened understanding of sailboat masts!

Important Factors to Consider When Maintaining Your Sailboat Mast

Sailing is a thrilling and invigorating experience that allows us to connect with nature, challenge ourselves, and explore the vast open waters. However, as with any adventure, there are certain aspects that we must pay close attention to in order to ensure a safe and successful voyage. One such critical component of a sailboat that demands careful maintenance is the mast. The mast serves as the backbone of your vessel, providing structural integrity and supporting your sails. In this blog post, we will delve into some important factors to consider when maintaining your sailboat mast.

Structural Integrity: The first and foremost factor that you need to consider when maintaining your sailboat mast is its structural integrity. Any signs of damage or wear and tear should not be taken lightly, as it can compromise the overall stability and safety of your vessel. Regularly inspecting your mast for any cracks, dents, or corrosion is crucial to identify any issues early on before they escalate into major problems. Additionally, keep an eye out for loose or rusted fasteners and make sure all connections are secure.

Rigging Wear: Another vital aspect of keeping your sailboat mast in top condition is paying attention to its rigging components. Rigging includes various cables, wires, and ropes responsible for controlling the sails’ position and tension. Over time, these elements can experience significant wear due to exposure to sun, saltwater, intense winds, or simply general usage. To maintain rigging longevity and ensure safety while sailing, regularly examine all parts for fraying strands or broken wires. Furthermore, proper tensioning of rigging should be maintained as per manufacturer recommendations.

Cleanliness: Maintaining a clean sailboat mast may sound like an obvious consideration but is often overlooked by many boat owners. A dirty mast not only affects the aesthetics but can also lead to performance issues if left unattended for too long. Accumulated dirt, grime, salt deposits or marine growth can create unwanted drag, hindering the sailing experience. Regular cleaning with mild soapy water and a soft brush is generally sufficient to remove stubborn stains and prevent corrosion.

Painting: Maintaining the aesthetic appeal of your sailboat mast should also be on your priority list. A fresh coat of paint not only enhances its appearance but also offers added protection against corrosion. Prior to painting, ensure that the mast is thoroughly cleaned and all rust or peeling paint is removed. Use a high-quality marine-grade paint specifically designed for aluminum or wooden masts, depending on the material of your sailboat’s mast.

Inspections: Performing routine inspections by a professional is an essential factor in maintaining your sailboat mast. It is recommended to have an experienced rigger thoroughly inspect your mast at least once a year, or more frequently if you actively engage in competitive racing or regularly navigate harsh conditions. These experts have the knowledge and expertise to identify potential weaknesses that may go unnoticed by untrained eyes, providing peace of mind and preventing any unexpected mishaps on your sailing journeys.

In conclusion, maintaining your sailboat mast requires careful attention to detail and regular inspections. By prioritizing factors such as structural integrity, rigging wear, cleanliness, painting, and professional inspections, you can ensure that your vessel remains in excellent condition for countless captivating voyages ahead. So set sail with confidence knowing that you’ve taken every measure to maintain this vital component of your beloved sailboat!

Discover the Different Types of Sailboat Masts and Their Advantages

Sailing is an activity that combines the thrill of speed with the serenity of the open water. One crucial component of any sailboat is the mast, which not only provides structural support but also plays a vital role in determining a boat’s performance and handling characteristics. To help you dive deeper into this fascinating world, we will explore the different types of sailboat masts and highlight their advantages.

1. Fractional Masts: Let’s start with fractional masts, which are one of the most common types found on sailboats today. As the name suggests, these masts divide the rig into two sections: upper and lower. The ratio of the length between these sections can vary, offering flexibility depending on sailing conditions and desired performance.

Advantages: – Versatility: Fractional masts allow for fine-tuning your sails by adjusting halyard tension or configuring additional stays. – Better control in strong wind conditions: The longer lower section provides stability and prevents excessive heeling (tilting) usually encountered during high winds. – Improved balance: By placing more weight aloft, fractional masts offer better balance when tacking (changing direction against the wind).

2. Masthead Masts: In contrast to fractional masts, masthead masts have their forestay attached at or near the masthead rather than a fraction down its length. Traditionally seen on older cruising boats, they offer distinct advantages for particular sailing styles.

Advantages: – Strong downwind performance: With their design allowing for larger headsails like genoas or asymmetrical spinnakers, masthead rigs excel in reaching or downwind courses. – Easy to balance for autopilot usage: Due to a greater proportionality between mainsail area and foresail area when compared to fractional rigs, mastheads tend to require less manual adjustment while under autopilot control.

3. Keel-stepped vs Deck-stepped Masts:

3.a. Keel-stepped Masts: Keel-stepped masts are secured and supported by the boat’s keel, extending through the deck to connect with it at the base. This type of rig is commonly found on larger sailboats designed for offshore sailing.

Advantages: – Superior strength: The keel provides excellent support for the mast against heavy loads encountered during rough weather conditions. – Reduced deck compression: By transferring the load directly to the keel, stress on the deck is minimized, ensuring a longer-lasting and more reliable structure overall.

3.b. Deck-stepped Masts: Deck-stepped masts sit on top of a sailboat’s deck, rather than being connected directly to the keel. Typically seen on smaller boats and cruising vessels, they have their own set of advantages.

Advantages: – Easier maintenance: With no penetration through to the hull like keel-stepped masts, maintaining or replacing deck fittings becomes less complicated. – Cost-effective construction: As there is no need for precision alignment with a keel box, constructing a boat with a deck-stepped mast can reduce building costs. – Adjustable height: Deck-stepped masts offer flexibility in terms of adjusting their height based on clearance requirements for bridges or overhead obstructions.

Understanding these various types of sailboat masts empowers sailors to make informed choices when selecting or upgrading their vessel’s rigging. Each mast type brings its own set of advantages that can significantly impact your sailing experience depending on different conditions and preferences.

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Mast Steps: No Perfect Design

Part 1-among nine different steps, of three distinct types, each has its pros and cons. but when all is said and done, we see advantages to the removable fastep..

In this report, first published in 1998, we discuss various designs of mast steps for climbing, or for assisted climbing. Here is a link to this print version of the original report on mast steps, which includes the black and white images. Since this report, we’ve done a number of other reports on mast climbing. For our most recent reports use the website search tool and search under “going aloft” or “bosun’s chair” or “mast steps” or “mast climbing” and that should bring up the more recent reports. Although some of these products are no longer available and new ones have been introduced, the designs for mast steps have not changed significantly since this report.

High on the list of chores for which its difficult to find volunteers are trips to the masthead.

But aboard most boats, it sooner or later is unavoidable. A fouled or lost halyard, an expired lightbulb, a damaged antenna or wind sensor…and up you go.

Perhaps the least tremulous ride is in a well-made boatswains chair slung from a recently inspected, powerhouse halyard, on an integral masthead sheave, whose tail is tended by your two best friends, neither of whom is a beneficiary on your insurance policies.

Doing the window shade trick rarely is that idyllic. Sometimes you even have to go it alone, sometimes on something other than a flat calm morning, sometimes even underway.

Some good minds have worked on this problem. They’ve come up with steps attached to the mast; web ladders; drums that contain multi-purchase mechanisms; and mountain-climbers hand grippers and stirrups (the hand grips contain cam cleats). Well look at all of them we can find, plus a home brew block-and-tackle/chair-cleat system used by an expert rigger.

For this report, well deal only with mast steps, which probably constitute the most commonly seen mast climbing method aboard shorthanded cruising boats. In a subsequent issue, well look at the other systems mentioned above.

Nine Mast Steps In All We collected all the steps we could find-nine in all and mounted them on a short section of mast once aboard a Prout 37 catamaran that, while doing the Inland Waterway, snagged a spreader on a tree and ripped out a big chunk of mast. Paul Boyce, manager of Hood Yacht Spars, responded to our request by grabbing a saber saw and cheerily saying, About six feet, you say?

The mast steps come in three basic flavors-fixed, folding and one demountable.

The five fixed versions carry twin liabilities. Except for one very small step, they create considerable wind resistance and theres little you do about that. They also snag errant lines, such as halyards and sometimes sheets, a tendency that can be minimized (with some of them) by rigging a fine wire or light line along their outside edges, tensioned with turnbuckles. That creates even more windage, of course, and makes the mast begin to look like a truss left over from the Eiffel Tower. In our experience, even this wire, however, may have a tendency to catch lines, especially those with a soft hand.

The three folding models eliminate much of the windage and virtually all of the snag potential, but do not provide footing as secure and comfortable as most of the fixed steps.

The ninth sample? Its a permanent or demountable step that the inventor intends should be used with an attendant safety harness manipulated with a sliding cam cleat device.

All of these steps involve drilling many holes in your mast. Weve never read or been told that drilling holes in a mast removes enough material to worry about. Further, weve never heard of a mast failing because of such holes. Nevertheless, one surely likes to minimize the number of holes.

Because it is considerable work to install such steps, its not recommended that it be done when the mast is stepped. Exerting pressure on a drill bit (and applying lubricant to preserve the bit) is difficult enough to do when the mast is on sawhorses, let alone aloft. Its minor, but you also would wind up with a lot of nasty sharp aluminum curlicues on your deck.

And whether you intend to use plain aluminum rivets or stainless machine screws or 305 stainless rivets (with a threadlock or insulating paste to inhibit corrosion), tapping good, clean threads or operating a rivet gun also is difficult if youre confined to a boatswains chair.

Stainless steel machine screws are nearly twice as strong as pop rivets, but 3/16″ 5052 aluminum rivets have a shear strength of 500 pounds (1/4″ 5052 rivets go up to 850 pounds). Nobody recommends self-tapping screws for this job.

For our tests, we took the easy way and installed all the steps with aluminum rivets. (We had enough practice in drilling and tapping aluminum when we last year worked on the mast of our Tartan 44 test boat.)

To attach these steps, we used a stock rivet gun that cost about $30. If you use stainless rivets or aluminum rivets larger than 3/16″, youll need a compound-action gun thatll set you back a hundred and a half, unless you can rent or borrow one.

Aluminum rivets go for 2 to 8. Stainless rivets cost 8 to 22. Stainless machine screws are not cheap. Whatever you choose, with two or more per step, youll need quite a few to attach alternating steps the recommended 16″ to18″ apart. Measure and divide to get the steps evenly spaced. Youll want two opposing steps for standing at the top; consider carefully how far these two should be from the top of the mast.

The Stainless Triangles The most flattering thing to be said about the strap-type steps is that they sort of enclose the foot, once it is inserted, and provide a more secure feeling than the open steps.

The two stainless steps-one sold by ABI Industries, Inc. ($18), the other by West Marine ($14)-appear to be identical except for the tread material. The West version, bottom left in the photo, has a grooved teak piece. The ABI, second from the bottom left, has a black urethane instep pad.

These steps are heavy. They weigh 11-1/2 ounces.

Both have tightly spaced holes for six fasteners…too many in our opinion. If either of these steps were our choice, wed utilize but four of the holes, two at the top, two at the bottom.

The least flattering thing to be said about these steps is that a size 10-1/2 male shoe can just barely be inserted in the opening. Extracting a foot requires a bit of a bowlegged can’t.

These steps provide lateral security and are very nice hand grips. However, the difficulty of inserting and removing a foot makes them-at least for those with average to large feet-a bit clumsy and perhaps even slightly dangerous.

Further, they snag halyards and, being stainless, need careful anti-corrosion treatment to isolate the stainless from the mast.

If you favor either of these steps (we don’t), try one (mounted) for size before you commit.

Triangle & Trapezoid On the bottom right in the photo is an aluminum step shown in the Defender Industries catalog. It sells for $8.60. Our files show it used to be made by United Die and Manufacturing Co. in Sebring, Ohio, but we got a not in service message when we telephoned and Defender could not supply the name of the maker.

So, we do not know who makes it now, but most anybody could.

That’s because it is a piece of anodized aluminum tubing, bent and flattened in the proper places to form a step and for mounting holes for fasteners. (Weve never been taken with anything that utilizes flattened tubing; too many failures.)

This step has three closely spaced fastening holes at the top and three of the same ilk at the bottom and thats several holes too many, in our view. Even if using two at the top and two at the bottom, the holes are very close together.

Its simple and strong and cheap.

It weighs but 8 ounces.

It makes a fairly comfortable hand hold.

The opening for ones foot is more generous than the two discussed above. However, the narrow rounded tread is tough on the instep. If you wear thin-soled boat shoes, youll get enough in a hurry.

A minor objection: This step is very unattractive; weve seen boats with a full set and the steps stand out very noticeably.

A major objection: Windage.

Unless saving a few bucks is paramount, this is not the way to go.

The other aluminum step, which makes a trapezoid with the mast, has been made for years by Pace-Edwards.

It is a wide extrusion, ribbed on one side, grooved on the other side. The ribs are for strength and ridigity, but they also make for good footing on the 2″-wide tread. The grooves, on the surfaces facing outboard, are said to make it more radar-reflective.

Being a tradezoid, the step has ample width for even a big seaboot (see photos).

The anodized extrusion is tabbed (by punch pressing away part of the flange) at the top and bottom for fastening with four rivets. The holes are widely spaced, which we like.

The Pace-Edwards step weighs 7 ounces.

It is available with an extra, a small clip, fastened with two very small rivets, that can carry a wire to vertically connect the steps and prevent halyard fouling.

In a PS review years ago, it was observed that the wide tread makes a somewhat difficult handhold. If one has small hands, this is true.

Its also true that, along with the other triangular steps, there will be considerable windage.

However, for size, rigidity, finish and comfort, we think this is the best step of its type. West Marines catalog displays the Pace-Edwards step, priced at $26.99 a pair.

The Seabird, aka Nicro aka Ronstan The Ronstan, known in an earlier life as a Seabird Mast Step then as a Nicro product, is derived from a step used aboard Bernard Moitessiers Joshua. It is described in the famous French sailors book, The Long Way .

A one-piece cast stainless half circle with an integral supporting strut, the Ronstan probably is one of the strongest steps made. It can be bent to shape. Attached with but three widely spaced fasteners, it also is, by far, the lightest at 3 ounces.

It also has, by far, the least wind resistance.

It doesn’t snag halyards. (Its also used by some sailors at the base of the mast to stand on while flaking the mainsail and dealing with the cover on boats with high booms.)

The West catalog shows it for $16.99, only $1.04 more than it cost almost 10 years ago, when we last evaluated mast steps.

So why isn’t it the perfect mast step?

Maybe it is, if you’re intrepid and have small feet.

Besides being a very poor handhold, its principal liability is that it projects from the mast less than 2″. Because the average shoe is about 4″ wide, you get support for about half of your arch or even less if you elect to place the ball of your foot on the step.

To compensate somewhat, the Ronstan step has cast into its step surface six fairly sharp teeth. Theyre intended to grip the bottom of rubber-soled boat shoes; it also means you wouldnt go up the mast barefooted.

We wouldn’t consider for an instant going up the mast with these steps unless we were wearing a harness or chair on either a tended halyard or, if singlehanded, one with a sliding cam cleat we will be discussing in a moment.

The Folding Steps The two folding steps, both made of cast aluminum, may appear in the photo to be identical. Theyre the two on the top right. In one of the photos, theyre shown in the stowed position.

Each is made up of two aluminum castings.

One casting is a movable step with a tread about 4-1/2″ long with non-skid gooves and a prominent hook on the outer edge for lateral security.

The other casting, to be mounted on the mast with four fasteners (aluminum rivets would be our choice), is shaped to permit the step to be folded up when not needed and slid down to lock in place.

As one ascends the mast, the steps are popped up and open. Those who own and use this type of step probably only forget once or twice to fold and stow each and every step while descending.

They make good, long, wide footholds; as handholds, both serve better than any others. They don’t foul halyards. Windage? About medium. Theyre a bit heavy, about 10 ounces.

The Mast Walker, made by Damage Control, is smoothly made of Almag 35. Theres evidence of careful shaping, fitting, grinding and polishing. It operates easily and has a nylon button insert, threaded for adjustment, to bear against the mast and preclude rattling.

There are six versions of the Mast Walker to fit different mast curvatures. Priced at $14.50, the Mast Walker would be especially attractive for anyone looking for a good snug fit.

The ABI folding step, well polished and anodized, also has the important nylon insert that engages the mast when the step is folded. (The ABI step used to have a black rubber button, but somebody must have decided that the adjustable nylon button was worth copying.) With either make of step, the button should be adjusted before mounting, if possible. Youll see why, on the first one you mount.

The ABI step is sold by West Marine for $15.99.

There seems to us to be little to choose between these two well-made folding steps whose principal advantages are that they reduce windage, avoid snagging lines and eliminate corrosion (if mounted with aluminum rivets).

Another folding step, also made by ABI and sold in several catalogs for $14, is more commonly used as a transom step. However, ABI feels this heavy (15-ounce) chromed brass assembly can be used on a mast. In the photos, it is the second from the top left. It folds and is held firmly by a stainless spring. It does not, however, fold quite flush enough to the mast to preclude it from snagging a 1/2″ halyard. That and its weight, plus the mish-mash of metals, make it a choice wed avoid.

A Demountable Step In the photos, half way up the left side of the mast, is another mans approach to mast steps.

Looking for a better way or the best of all worlds, Alfred Gilbert fashioned his Fastep from two pieces of 1/4″ stainless rod. Bent properly and assembled with four simple welds, the Fastep is, for an open step, very strong and quite secure.

More importantly, Fasteps can be mounted when needed and demounted coming down. No windage, no fouling, no fasteners.

Fasteps can, of course, be left in place, in which case there would be a little windage and the threat of a fouled halyard. If you mount and demount them as needed, there is, of course, the risk of dropping one.

A Fastep requires only two holes in the mast. Gilbert admits the holes are a bit fussy but he supplies stick-on templates, instructions to keep the holes perpendicular to a fore and aft line (not to the curvature of the mast) and suggests a center punch and a bradpoint bit to get clean 9/32″ holes.

Going up the mast with a canvas bucket of Fasteps, the steps are inserted in the two holes and pulled down 90 to seat them snugly in place. They have small nylon-tubing fenders to make them fit snugly and not vibrate. Coming down, a step is rotated upward 90 and pulled free of the two holes.

Gilbert strongly recommends that his Fasteps ($12.95 each) be used with what he calls a Saf-Brak. The Saf-Brak is a 12″ web strap with a cam cleat device on one end and, on the other, a locking carabiner to attach to a good harness or soft boatswains chair. The cam cleat assembly, from an Idaho mountaineering gear manufacturer, seems, by marine standards, a bit clap trappy but its certainly rugged. Rigged on a taut, stowed halyard, the Saf-Brak rides up easily as one climbs up the mast, but belays securely with a down load. One would lift the strap momentarily and slide it down a bit when coming down the mast one step at a time.

The Saf-Brak, which sells for $68.95, is a sort of store-bought Prusik knot but better, because Prusik knots can jam and require two hands to work loose. (The Prusik knot, really a hitch, was invented during World War I by an Austrian professor of music, Dr. Karl Prusik, as a way to join the broken strings of musical instruments. There are several versions, one of which, made of tape or webbing, is what is called a Chinese finger. Mountain-climbing experts using two Prusik slings, both led through a ring on a harness to foot stirrups, have climbed 100′ in about one minute.)

With the Fastep system, a mast ascent will take a bit longer than with permanent steps. And, in addition to your bag of tools for whatever job it is youre about to perform, youll have a second bag of steps to contend with. In a controlled situation this doesn’t worry us, but if going up the mast underway, the extra time and fuss could be a liability.

The Bottom Line There are here probably more than the usual personal preferences to be sorted out. Included are cost, comfort, safety, windage, esthetics, whether you fear halyard fouling and how many holes it takes to make you uneasy about your mast.

For those who want permanently installed steps and care little about windage or esthetics, the Pace-Edwards trapezoid is a good choice.

If you want an open folding step that creates less windage and is a bit more sightly, choose either the Mast Walker or the ABIs nearly identical folding aluminum step.

If very little windage and no fear of fouling is your wont, consider the small, strong Ronstan…but only if youre willing to be faithful about using a harness attached to something that will catch you if you slip.

Best overall? Unless theres something weve missed, a canvas bag of Fasteps, used in conjunction with the Saf Brak, makes sense. They can be left in place, which we wouldnt do. No fasteners and only two holes per step. Mounted only when needed, thered be no corrosion fears, nothing to foul halyards, nothing unsightly.

And if youre going up alone with any of these steps, wed recommend the use of the Saf Brak.

Contacts- ABI, 1160A Industrial Ave., Petaluma, CA 94952, 707/765-6200. Defender Industries, 42 Great Neck Road, Waterford, CT 06385, 800/628-8225. Fastep & Saf Brak, Alfred Gilbert Enterprises, 2921 Wood Pipe Lane, Phila., PA 19129, 215/849-4016. Mast Walker, Damage Control, 7670 Bay St., Pasadena, MD 21122-3433, 410/360-2445. Pace-Edwards, 2400 Commercial Blvd., Centralia, WA 98531, 800/338-3697. Ronstan, 7600 Bryan Dairy Rd., Largo, FL 33777, 813/545-1911. West Marine, 500 Westridge Dr., Watsonville, CA 95076, 800/262-8464.

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You can safely climb a mast halyard without a special mechanism. Prusik knots are used by mountain climbers to vertically ascent a rope without special hardware.

Very informative, but how can I see the photos ? Thanks

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