mast foot on sailboat

Average Sailboat Mast Height

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

August 30, 2022

‍ Sailboat masts are known to be quite tall, but how tall do they get? The answer varies on rig type, boat size, and design attributes.

Small sailboats, under 20 feet in length, rarely have masts taller than 20 ft or shorter than 8 ft. Sailboats between 20 and 30 feet have masts up to 30 feet tall, and large 40+ foot sailboats often have masts that exceed 50 feet in height.

In this article, we'll cover the average mast height of various sailboats based on length, and we'll also provide a typical height range. Additionally, we'll compare mast height by rig type. Finally, we'll cover the benefits and disadvantages of tall and short masts.

We sourced the information used in this article from sailboat design guides and the sailing community. Additionally, we analyzed several boats from each length category to determine average mast heights.

Table of contents

‍ Why are Mast Heights Different?

If you spend enough time around marinas, you'll undoubtedly notice the numerous masts that tower high above seemingly minuscule boats. Some are tall and thin, some are short and fat—and many are somewhere in between. So why do sailboat mast heights differ so much?

There are a lot of factors that contribute to mast height, not the least of which is boat size. Obviously, boats need a sail plan proportionate to their length, beam, and displacement in order to be efficient. The type of sail plan varies based on what the boat is used for.

Different rigs use different mast heights, even if the boat underneath is exactly the same. Let's assume we have two identical 30-foot boats. One has a tall mast and a triangular Bermuda rig, while another has a shorter mast with a four-sided rig.

The four-sided sail has a much greater area per foot of height than the triangular sail, so the mast doesn't need to be quite as high. Additionally, shorter masts can be thicker and stay within the same weight limits as a taller mast, so they can be thicker and stronger.

Average Mast Height by Sailboat Length

Now, we'll look at the average mast heights of sailboats by their overall length. We're not considering rig type beyond the fact that the majority of modern sailboats are Bermuda-rigged sloops—we'll get into that later. Here are some averages based on popular sailboats.

As you can see, the average mast height is highly dependent on the length of a sailboat. Most vessels have triangular rigs, which require a taller mast. It also seems as though mast height isn't usually far from the overall length of the boat, at least on tall single-masted vessels.

Why do Racing Sailboats Have Tall Masts?

Racing sailboats are known for their crazy mast heights and long, thin sails. There's a very simple reason for this, and it has to do with efficiency and drag. A taller and thinner sail is much more efficient for speed than a shorter and fatter sail. The same goes with the dimensions of the hull, as fast boats tend to be long and slender.

The science behind sail design is ancient and fascinating. In the 21st century, where the boat market values speed and agility, tall masts with thin triangular rigs are becoming increasingly popular. Short-masted vessels, once a key component of working offshore, are more durable but less common.

Average Mast Height of Multi-Masted Sailboats

Having multiple masts has distinct advantages, especially for cruising. Multi-masted sailboats are some of the best offshore cruisers ever built, and they are also remarkably durable. One of the main benefits of having multiple masts is that it adds a level of redundancy and increases your ability to finely control the vessel.

Multi-masted sailboats almost always have shorter and thicker masts when compared to similar single-masted vessels. Sailboats with four-sided mainsails, such as many classical schooners, are a particularly extreme example of this.

Gaff-rigged schooner masts are significantly shorter than triangular rig masts, sometimes more than 10 to 20% shorter. It's often the case that these vessels have a topmast that can be raised or lowered to add a triangular topsail, further increasing the area of the large four-sided sail plan.

What Sailboat Rigs Have Tall Masts?

Bermuda rigged sailboats (also known as Marconi rigged sailboats) are the most common tall-masted boats. Triangular rigs are tall because their sail area decreases as it moves up the sail, so they make up for it by adding height.

Fully-rigged ships also have very tall masts. These are the traditional sailing ships that are quite literally called 'tall ships' in the sailing community. They have multiple sails on each mast when fully deployed, and they usually have three or more masts and multiple headsails.

What Sailboat Rigs Have Short Masts?

The gaff rig is a common and classic sailboat rig that uses traditionally shorter masts. The gaff rig uses a square mainsail, which has more lateral area than a triangular mainsail. These vessels often deploy a topsail with or without a mast extension called a topmast.

The lateen rig is also famously simple and short-masted. It uses a triangular sail with spars that fly at an angle to the mast. It is an ancient sailing rig that was extremely common in the early days of civilization, and it served workboats across the world for centuries.

Are Shorter Masts Stronger?

Short masts can be stronger, but they aren't always. It depends on the design of the craft and is more dependent on rig type than the size of the mast itself. The strongest masts are found on gaff-rigged vessels. They are usually short and thick and traditionally made of wood.

The strength of the mast isn't so important when everything is working properly. It begins to matter in the event of a failure, like a broken stay.

A gaff-rigged vessel with a typical mast has a good chance of surviving a snapped stay as the mast can support itself. A Bermuda-rigged vessel, more likely than not, could lose its mast immediately after the standing rigging goes down.

What are Masts Made Of?

Masts are made of many different materials. Traditionally, wood was the mast material of choice. It was strong and lasted a very long time if maintained. Through the production sailboat era, when boatbuilders switched from wood to fiberglass for hulls, sailboat masts were mostly made of aluminum.

Today's high-tech racing sailboats have many more options to choose from. Composite materials, such as carbon fiber, are increasingly common due to their astounding strength-to-weight ratio. Alloy masts are also fairly common. Steel masts exist, but their use is usually confined to small sailboats and dinghies.

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Costing: The Investment Behind the Mast

While the thrill of sailing might be priceless, maintaining the mast comes with its costs.

Regular Upkeep : This is an ongoing expense, but think of it as insurance against larger, more costly repairs down the line.
Repairs : Depending on severity and frequency, repair costs can stack up. It's always advisable to address issues promptly to avoid more significant expenses later.
Complete Replacement : Whether due to extensive damage or just seeking an upgrade, replacing the mast is a significant investment. Consider factors like material, type, and labor when budgeting.

Upgrading Your Mast: Why and How

There comes a time when every sailor contemplates upgrading their mast. It might be for performance, compatibility with new sail types, or the allure of modern materials and technology.

Performance Boosts : New masts can offer better aerodynamics, weight distribution, and responsiveness.
Material Upgrades : Shifting from an old wooden mast to a modern aluminum or carbon fiber one can drastically change your sailing experience.
Compatibility : Modern sails, especially those designed for racing or specific weather conditions, might necessitate a mast upgrade.

The Impact of Weather on Masts

Weather conditions significantly influence the longevity and performance of your mast. From strong winds to salty sea sprays, each element poses unique challenges. Regularly washing the mast, especially after sailing in saltwater, can help prevent the onset of corrosion and wear.

Customization and Personal Touches

Every sailor has a unique touch, and this extends to the mast. Whether it's intricate carvings on wooden masts, personalized masthead designs, or innovative rigging solutions, customization allows sailors to make their vessel truly their own.

The Role of Sails in Mast Design

It's not just about the mast; the type and size of sails greatly influence mast design. From the full-bellied spinnakers to the slender jibs, each sail requires specific support, tension, and angle, dictating the rigging and structure of the mast.

Safety First: The Role of Masts in Overboard Incidents

A mast isn't just for sailing; it plays a crucial role in safety. In overboard situations, the mast, especially when fitted with steps, can be a lifeline, allowing sailors to climb back onto their boat. Its visibility also aids in search and rescue operations.

The Rise of Eco-Friendly Masts

As the world grows more eco-conscious, the sailing community isn't far behind. New materials, designed to be environmentally friendly, are making their way into mast production. They aim to provide the strength and durability of traditional materials while reducing the environmental footprint.

The Intricate World of Rigging

The mast serves as the anchor for a complex system of ropes, pulleys, and cables – the rigging. This network, when fine-tuned, allows sailors to adjust sails for optimal wind capture, maneuverability, and speed. Mastery over rigging can elevate a sailor's experience and prowess significantly.

Historical Significance: Masts in Naval Warfare

In historical naval battles, the mast played a pivotal role. Damaging or destroying an enemy's mast was a strategic move, crippling their mobility and rendering them vulnerable. The evolution of masts in naval ships offers a fascinating glimpse into maritime warfare tactics of yesteryears.

The Science Behind Mast Vibrations

Ever noticed your mast humming or vibrating in strong winds? This phenomenon, known as aeolian vibration, arises from the interaction between wind and the mast's

structure. While it can be a mesmerizing sound, unchecked vibrations over time can lead to wear and potential damage.

Future Trends: What Lies Ahead for Sailboat Masts

With technological advancements, the future of masts is bright. Concepts like retractable masts, integrated solar panels, and smart sensors for real-time health monitoring of the mast are on the horizon. These innovations promise to redefine sailing in the years to come.

Paying Homage: Celebrating the Mast

Across cultures and ages, masts have been celebrated, revered, and even worshipped. From the Polynesians who viewed them as spiritual totems, to modern sailors tattooing mast symbols as badges of honor, the mast, in its silent grandeur, continues to inspire awe and respect.

Conclusion: The Mast’s Place in Sailing

In the grand scheme of sailing, the mast holds a place of reverence. It's not just a structural necessity; it's a testament to human ingenuity, our quest for exploration, and the sheer love of the sea.

How often should I inspect my mast?

At least twice a year, preferably before and after sailing season.

Can I handle repairs myself?

Minor repairs, yes. But for major issues, it's best to consult a professional.

Is there an average lifespan for a mast?

With proper care, masts can last decades. Material and maintenance quality play a huge role.

How do I know if it's time to replace my mast?

Constant repairs, visible wear, and decreased performance are indicators.

What's the most durable mast material?

Carbon fiber is incredibly strong and durable, but aluminum also offers excellent longevity.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite sailing destinations.

Mast Queries Answered

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Raising the Mast of a Small Sailboat with The Resourceful Sailor — The Solo Version

It’s been a while since we’ve heard from The Resourceful Sailor. Since he lowered the mast on his boat Sampaguita last June, he’s been busy taking care of several boat projects. Now he’s back on deck and has sent us this detailed report on raising the mast.

What goes down must go up? After a rig refit, the mast of Sampaguita , a Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20, was ready to be raised. Still in her Port Townsend slip, the process was, generally, the opposite of lowering, presented in ‘Lectronic Latitude on June 16, 2021 — Lowering the Mast on a Small Sailboat with The Resourceful Sailor .

It required the same bridle setup. The boom, again, would act as a gin pole to gain the proper angle for leverage. The mainsheet block and tackle would do the heavy lifting. Rather than write the same thing again, I will focus on the differences between the two procedures and provide some previously left-out insights. In doing this, I will presume that you have read or will review the installment mentioned above.

For raising, only the cap shrouds and the headstay needed to be attached to their respective chainplates. Out of respect for Murphy’s Law, the other wires were secured tightly to the mast to mitigate their inclination to get snagged. Snagged wires like to kink, and whether new or old, it is unsatisfying, not to mention detrimental to their longevity and strength. The turnbuckles were wrapped in rags and secured to the mast, preventing them from scratching and banging into anything (everything.)

The bridle setup was more challenging to organize with the rig down than up. Since I had new wires, I needed to re-seize the stainless steel rings to the cap shrouds. It required holding up the wire to determine the proper pivot points with the mast. Then the opposing force lines to the lower stay chainplates were added, conceptualizing the rigid triangle necessary to maintain the pivot points. With the rig up, it is easier to build and see this. But down, it is a floppy mess. Then, a line was attached to each ring, ready to lead to a bail on the boom. A block and tackle served nicely for this on one side for ease of adjustment. These guylines will provide the opposing forces to keep the boom centered.

After that, I moved the mast to the tabernacle and pinned its base in the ready position. A final review of the halyard and wire leads and spreader orientations was done. A reminder: Always be on the lookout for snagging wires and lines whenever you move the mast.

The boom, as a gin pole, could then be added. When lowering, it was already in position and there was only the matter of attaching the bridle lines. However, with the mast down, the boom would be attached starting in a vertical position, which involved some boat yoga. I shackled the mainsheet and topping lift to its outer end. Lots of slack was fed into those lines, allowing for lifting it straight up. While holding it so, I pinned the mast end to the gooseneck. I picked up the previously-led guylines (the line and the block and tackle) and attached them to the boom bail. I tightened and adjusted the mainsheet, the topping lift, and the guylines until the boom was centered and vertical. The opposing forces held the gin pole in place.

With the correct bridle setup, the mast base in the tabernacle, and the gin pole in place, it was simply a matter of hoisting the mast. On a Flicka 20, the round bar traveler and the four-part mainsheet block and tackle are very accommodating to providing the mechanical advantage necessary for raising and lowering the mast. To a soloist, this advantage was indispensable. It took two hands and a bit of leaning to get it moving, but it became easier as it went higher. An eye was kept on the centerline alignment of the mast and boom, making sure the bridle prep was accurate, and watching that the wires did not snag.

The accompanying video shows the raising from a first-person view and solo. In contrast to lowering the mast, gravity is less of a friend, so the ascent is slower, with a bit more heave-ho. There is no shame in re-lowering the mast to adjust the bridle lines or sort out the wires. It is better to correct them early than to think something will be all right when it is not. Raising and lowering the mast is not rocket science, but 99% of the gig is proper preparation. If something goes wrong, it could be catastrophic, so double- and triple-check. It can be intimidating at first, but it is simple physics and simple tools at work. Remember, keep it safe and prudent, and have a blast.

This is so stressful to watch! I would have never had the courage to do it myself. As always, you have my respect and admiration. Well done!

Rusty, thanks for the kind words, and thanks for reading.

Joshua, Thank you for taking the time for so nicely relaying your experiences on single-hand stepping the mast on your Flicka. I am currently refining this design process for my own boat, and am thus interested in the finer details. My initial questions are two: First, concerning the method and material for seizing the bridle to the cap shrouds: As you state, a properly rigged bridle is key to making the process work. How did you analyze the adequacy of your seizing method and the loads that would be experienced?

Temporary seizing is a good place to start for me, but since I do this spring and fall every year, I have considered incorporating a more permanent nicropress and cable pigtail for the ring attachment (the loads there are not very high). A triangular plate in the top shroud with attachment points for the bridle connection points would be nicer, but more expensive to implement. Either way, it is probably prudent to use a temporary seizing first, to demonstrate dimensional functionality prior to a permanent solution. Second, I am sure you release the cap shrouds to allow the bridle arrangement some up/down movement as a result of the mast butt movement in the tabernacle during stepping. Somehow I must have missed that. Once upon a time I tried raising the mast with very slack uppers (guessing at what was needed instead of graphical analysis or calculations) instead of the bridle approach (all else was like your scenario). Because the slack was inadequate and no bridle, I managed to bend my boom out of alignment. :o(. A good machine shop worked that out. As long as the mast remains vertical through the lift, there isn’t much load on that ring connection, but its job is keeping the mast in a vertical/perpendicular orientation through the lift. But if some kind of unforeseen incident would create shock loading on the seized ring, (say even 2 pounds of lateral movement (force at the truck) that would correlate to about 56 foot-pounds of moment (engineering statics) applied at the ring due to the long lever arm of the mast. If it were 5 pounds force perpendicular at the top of the mast, it would correlate to up to 140 foot pounds. In my view, a shock load of 5 pounds or maybe more, isn’t an unlikely scenario, considering Murphy. I can’t think of a way to analyze the strength of the seizing, and prayer does not work for me. So, how did you analyze the adequacy of your seizing method and what did you use? Wire? In my case, I have been stepping my mast at least annually, on my Lancer 25 for more than 35 years. I usually do it on the hard, or in the water if launching was via travel lift or something else that dictated the mast needed to be down when launched. But in at least one case, years ago, while sailing near Cowichan Bay at Vancouver Island, the jib wire jumped the sheave (a result of rough water and a slack line while dousing the jib) at the truck, and jammed along-side of the sheave when I tried to pull the sail down. I wasn’t sure of the problem at the time, but the sail definitely was not coming down, so I wrapped the jib halyard around the forestay to try to contain the partially-filled sail and considered my options. Luckily, upon checking my depth sounder, and found some shallow 30’ water (unheard of up there) and dropped the hook (probably on a rock bottom) and it held well enough for the task at hand. My mate always helped tail the line connected to the backstay at the winch and through a clam cleat to hold things if I needed a rest. I just loosened and released the rigging as necessary, muscle-dropped the mast and used the dinghy to go forward and sort things out. It was a very high reach, but I was successful. After I got the mast back up it started to rain….. I later drilled a hole in the truck to insert a stainless wire restraint, so the halyard cable could not be thrown off the sheave again. I have toyed with analyzing more mechanical methods for raising the mast now that I am older, less strong, and my first mate has passed on. That is what piqued my interest on your article. The Flicka is ready-made (Bingham designed it in; I am sure) for this raising procedure. The Flicka doesn’t have many complications, since there are double lowers in perfect position for the bridle attachment, and the cap shrouds are neatly centered to the mast. The Lancer is not so nice. It has a single set of lowers, and the chain plate has about 1” between the 2 connections for uppers and lowers. These are also set about 3” aft of mast centerline. The original Lancer design was a tabernacle (not exactly the proper technical term, but we will go with it) with the slot in the tabernacle tabs, and a through bolt for securing the mast. I would say this is the usual case for production trailer sailor boats. I have never been wild about the uneven up-and-down friction-prone mast butt action and the associated movement reflected in the rigging connections during stepping. I do have a strong toe rail to connect the bridle, but the chain-plate bridle connection will not work geometrically. I have purchased a hinged tabernacle plate from Ballinger Spars, which will smooth out the rotational process down there. However, the negative thing it does, is place the pivot point about 3” in front of the mast centerline. The hinge movement is forward of the mast (eccentric) and translates to about 3” up-and-down movement (tensioning or slacking) of the cap shroud/ bridle assembly while stepping the Lancer mast. With the eccentric hinged plate pivot, (while rotating up), the mast butt raises momentarily for about 1/4” (slackening the rigging) and then drops down 3” (requiring an equal amount of rigging slack or things will go into tension, which is no good). The shrouds or bridle assembly must allow a lengthening of 3” during rotation of the mast butt into final position (as determined by graphical analysis). On lowering, the movement is opposite, so the shrouds will slacken throughout rotation without causing any tension problems, and there is plenty of play being created to keep any stresses from developing. I suppose the key in my case is to set the bridle configuration when the mast I up, thus ‘dimensionally building in’ the 3” movement required into the bridle/shroud system. Thoughts? The following is an analysis of the forces on the Lancer rigging dimensions and mast weight: The mast (Kenyon 3550) is 28’ long and weighs in at 62 pounds. I arbitrarily rounded to 70 pounds for these calculations. The moment to initiate lifting the mast is 980 foot pounds. (28’x half the mast length x70 pounds – assume equal weight distribution per foot.). That is to say, if the mast is on the ground and you lift one end, it will take 35 pounds force through a distance of 28 feet (=980 foot pounds of moment acting on the mast to lift one end off of the ground). But in raising the mast, the force is pulling more aft than up (requiring vector analysis which I will get to). I am currently considering a 10’ jibboom mounted at the hinge point and not higher on the mast where the boom lives, which changes the numbers- (no bending forces on the mast – which are not really great enough to mean much to the 3550). Also in the Flicka case, boom length (as with lancer) is probably about 8’. A 10’ jibboom lowers the forces more than an 8’, but using the existing spar is practical. It is probably prudent for me to reconsider and re-calculate using the boom in its usual position. A few years ago, I designed and had a fitting made to connect a jibboom to the mast foot, so I was considering using it. So, running the numbers based on the Lacer backstay distance to the mast and initial lay of the mast, it would take (rounded) 103 pounds of tension in the backstay from the mast truck to the jibboom, and 125 pounds of tension from the jibboom to the backstay connection point. Compression loading in the 10’ boom is 114 pounds. Yes, one can use Eulers equation to analyze buckling forces, but I didn’t do it. Following good engineering practice with a factor of safety of at least 2, these numbers would be double the values shown for design checking of adequacy of rigging and spars. Confirming your experience, as the mast goes up, the center of gravity moves aft, requiring less and less force to raise the mast (and the geometry is changing) to increase efficiency of the forces as the mast goes up. 30degrees=858 ft lbs, 45 degrees=700 ft lbs, 70 degrees=350 ft lbs. 70 degrees into the lift, it would equate to 10 pounds of perpendicular force applied at the top (the center of mast mass has shifted to only 5’ in front of the final mast position). With a 4:1 ratio applied on the backstay, the pull on the line is about 31 pounds force for the Lancer System. The Flicka system is somewhat more (I don’t have the dimensions to analyze it), but from your description it was probably 40 pounds or less to start the raise, and then the tension required reduces as the mast goes up. Since the pull for the lancer scenario calculates in at around 31 pounds, I am planning to run the bitter end of the 4:1 through a block at the stern, to the bow, through a blocks on the bow, and use the anchor windlass to pull the mast up (the windlass maximum has 400 pounds of tension available). So even with friction losses, there should be no issue. I have a windlass switch in the cockpit, and a second hand-held remote at the forward hatch. It is a very convenient setup for going forward and guiding the mast or sorting out issues. Also, after my spouse passed, I put a winch at about 5’ high on the mast, and I ran the raising line there, instead of needing someone tailing at the cockpit. It is easier (almost necessary) to have a helper with me at the mast. I have lowered the mast alone with this manual system by taking wraps on the winch and playing out slack while catching the mast. However, without a jibboom, the forces are tougher to man-handle alone at the end of the lowering process. Comments are appreciated, as there is always something else to be considered or learned. Thanks

Jim, Thanks for reading and taking the time to engage. You have certainly been thinking about this! You get far deeper into the physics than I ever have and I suspect, many readers and sailors. Regarding seizing the rings on, I don’t overthink it. I have some net twine and I wrap and figure-eight it until I am sure it is strong enough. They are not permanent installations but are easy for me to put on as needed. Thoughtful marlinspike would make a nice permanent install. I have seen a different Flicka install that had the cap shroud turnbuckle placed at the pivot point. This removed the need for a seized-on ring and also gave a nice pivot point that does not bend the wire. Kinking the wire is my big concern, but the forces and the pivot point have not been high enough to do this, so without doing the physics calculation, the stress is low. Regarding the extra slack in the cap shrouds to accommodate that extra lift that occurs as the mast tips forward, no, I did not mention it, but it is a thing. I learned of that when I did not have them slack enough on a lowering. I recognized what was happening, so rather than forcing it, I backed off, adjusted, and restarted. Article scope naturally means some things are left out. That is good intel on bending your boom though. I have found on a sailboat, that if something feels like it is not running free, something is wrong. I don’t force it.

Thanks for the reply, Joshua.

I am leaning toward installing a permanent 4-hole triangular plate in the cap shroud at the bridle connection. This would create clear movement for hinge point attachments, and address stresses that can occur there. The rest is just a matter of rigging things up.

Best wishes in the new year.

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In this report, first published in 1998, we discuss various designs of mast steps for climbing, or for assisted climbing. Here is a link to this print version of the original report on mast steps, which includes the black and white images. Since this report, we’ve done a number of other reports on mast climbing. For our most recent reports use the website search tool and search under “going aloft” or “bosun’s chair” or “mast steps” or “mast climbing” and that should bring up the more recent reports. Although some of these products are no longer available and new ones have been introduced, the designs for mast steps have not changed significantly since this report.

High on the list of chores for which its difficult to find volunteers are trips to the masthead.

But aboard most boats, it sooner or later is unavoidable. A fouled or lost halyard, an expired lightbulb, a damaged antenna or wind sensor…and up you go.

Perhaps the least tremulous ride is in a well-made boatswains chair slung from a recently inspected, powerhouse halyard, on an integral masthead sheave, whose tail is tended by your two best friends, neither of whom is a beneficiary on your insurance policies.

Doing the window shade trick rarely is that idyllic. Sometimes you even have to go it alone, sometimes on something other than a flat calm morning, sometimes even underway.

Some good minds have worked on this problem. They’ve come up with steps attached to the mast; web ladders; drums that contain multi-purchase mechanisms; and mountain-climbers hand grippers and stirrups (the hand grips contain cam cleats). Well look at all of them we can find, plus a home brew block-and-tackle/chair-cleat system used by an expert rigger.

For this report, well deal only with mast steps, which probably constitute the most commonly seen mast climbing method aboard shorthanded cruising boats. In a subsequent issue, well look at the other systems mentioned above.

Nine Mast Steps In All We collected all the steps we could find-nine in all and mounted them on a short section of mast once aboard a Prout 37 catamaran that, while doing the Inland Waterway, snagged a spreader on a tree and ripped out a big chunk of mast. Paul Boyce, manager of Hood Yacht Spars, responded to our request by grabbing a saber saw and cheerily saying, About six feet, you say?

The mast steps come in three basic flavors-fixed, folding and one demountable.

The five fixed versions carry twin liabilities. Except for one very small step, they create considerable wind resistance and theres little you do about that. They also snag errant lines, such as halyards and sometimes sheets, a tendency that can be minimized (with some of them) by rigging a fine wire or light line along their outside edges, tensioned with turnbuckles. That creates even more windage, of course, and makes the mast begin to look like a truss left over from the Eiffel Tower. In our experience, even this wire, however, may have a tendency to catch lines, especially those with a soft hand.

The three folding models eliminate much of the windage and virtually all of the snag potential, but do not provide footing as secure and comfortable as most of the fixed steps.

The ninth sample? Its a permanent or demountable step that the inventor intends should be used with an attendant safety harness manipulated with a sliding cam cleat device.

All of these steps involve drilling many holes in your mast. Weve never read or been told that drilling holes in a mast removes enough material to worry about. Further, weve never heard of a mast failing because of such holes. Nevertheless, one surely likes to minimize the number of holes.

Because it is considerable work to install such steps, its not recommended that it be done when the mast is stepped. Exerting pressure on a drill bit (and applying lubricant to preserve the bit) is difficult enough to do when the mast is on sawhorses, let alone aloft. Its minor, but you also would wind up with a lot of nasty sharp aluminum curlicues on your deck.

And whether you intend to use plain aluminum rivets or stainless machine screws or 305 stainless rivets (with a threadlock or insulating paste to inhibit corrosion), tapping good, clean threads or operating a rivet gun also is difficult if youre confined to a boatswains chair.

Stainless steel machine screws are nearly twice as strong as pop rivets, but 3/16″ 5052 aluminum rivets have a shear strength of 500 pounds (1/4″ 5052 rivets go up to 850 pounds). Nobody recommends self-tapping screws for this job.

For our tests, we took the easy way and installed all the steps with aluminum rivets. (We had enough practice in drilling and tapping aluminum when we last year worked on the mast of our Tartan 44 test boat.)

To attach these steps, we used a stock rivet gun that cost about $30. If you use stainless rivets or aluminum rivets larger than 3/16″, youll need a compound-action gun thatll set you back a hundred and a half, unless you can rent or borrow one.

Aluminum rivets go for 2 to 8. Stainless rivets cost 8 to 22. Stainless machine screws are not cheap. Whatever you choose, with two or more per step, youll need quite a few to attach alternating steps the recommended 16″ to18″ apart. Measure and divide to get the steps evenly spaced. Youll want two opposing steps for standing at the top; consider carefully how far these two should be from the top of the mast.

The Stainless Triangles The most flattering thing to be said about the strap-type steps is that they sort of enclose the foot, once it is inserted, and provide a more secure feeling than the open steps.

The two stainless steps-one sold by ABI Industries, Inc. ($18), the other by West Marine ($14)-appear to be identical except for the tread material. The West version, bottom left in the photo, has a grooved teak piece. The ABI, second from the bottom left, has a black urethane instep pad.

These steps are heavy. They weigh 11-1/2 ounces.

Both have tightly spaced holes for six fasteners…too many in our opinion. If either of these steps were our choice, wed utilize but four of the holes, two at the top, two at the bottom.

The least flattering thing to be said about these steps is that a size 10-1/2 male shoe can just barely be inserted in the opening. Extracting a foot requires a bit of a bowlegged can’t.

These steps provide lateral security and are very nice hand grips. However, the difficulty of inserting and removing a foot makes them-at least for those with average to large feet-a bit clumsy and perhaps even slightly dangerous.

Further, they snag halyards and, being stainless, need careful anti-corrosion treatment to isolate the stainless from the mast.

If you favor either of these steps (we don’t), try one (mounted) for size before you commit.

Triangle & Trapezoid On the bottom right in the photo is an aluminum step shown in the Defender Industries catalog. It sells for $8.60. Our files show it used to be made by United Die and Manufacturing Co. in Sebring, Ohio, but we got a not in service message when we telephoned and Defender could not supply the name of the maker.

So, we do not know who makes it now, but most anybody could.

That’s because it is a piece of anodized aluminum tubing, bent and flattened in the proper places to form a step and for mounting holes for fasteners. (Weve never been taken with anything that utilizes flattened tubing; too many failures.)

This step has three closely spaced fastening holes at the top and three of the same ilk at the bottom and thats several holes too many, in our view. Even if using two at the top and two at the bottom, the holes are very close together.

Its simple and strong and cheap.

It weighs but 8 ounces.

It makes a fairly comfortable hand hold.

The opening for ones foot is more generous than the two discussed above. However, the narrow rounded tread is tough on the instep. If you wear thin-soled boat shoes, youll get enough in a hurry.

A minor objection: This step is very unattractive; weve seen boats with a full set and the steps stand out very noticeably.

A major objection: Windage.

Unless saving a few bucks is paramount, this is not the way to go.

The other aluminum step, which makes a trapezoid with the mast, has been made for years by Pace-Edwards.

It is a wide extrusion, ribbed on one side, grooved on the other side. The ribs are for strength and ridigity, but they also make for good footing on the 2″-wide tread. The grooves, on the surfaces facing outboard, are said to make it more radar-reflective.

Being a tradezoid, the step has ample width for even a big seaboot (see photos).

The anodized extrusion is tabbed (by punch pressing away part of the flange) at the top and bottom for fastening with four rivets. The holes are widely spaced, which we like.

The Pace-Edwards step weighs 7 ounces.

It is available with an extra, a small clip, fastened with two very small rivets, that can carry a wire to vertically connect the steps and prevent halyard fouling.

In a PS review years ago, it was observed that the wide tread makes a somewhat difficult handhold. If one has small hands, this is true.

Its also true that, along with the other triangular steps, there will be considerable windage.

However, for size, rigidity, finish and comfort, we think this is the best step of its type. West Marines catalog displays the Pace-Edwards step, priced at $26.99 a pair.

The Seabird, aka Nicro aka Ronstan The Ronstan, known in an earlier life as a Seabird Mast Step then as a Nicro product, is derived from a step used aboard Bernard Moitessiers Joshua. It is described in the famous French sailors book, The Long Way .

A one-piece cast stainless half circle with an integral supporting strut, the Ronstan probably is one of the strongest steps made. It can be bent to shape. Attached with but three widely spaced fasteners, it also is, by far, the lightest at 3 ounces.

It also has, by far, the least wind resistance.

It doesn’t snag halyards. (Its also used by some sailors at the base of the mast to stand on while flaking the mainsail and dealing with the cover on boats with high booms.)

The West catalog shows it for $16.99, only $1.04 more than it cost almost 10 years ago, when we last evaluated mast steps.

So why isn’t it the perfect mast step?

Maybe it is, if you’re intrepid and have small feet.

Besides being a very poor handhold, its principal liability is that it projects from the mast less than 2″. Because the average shoe is about 4″ wide, you get support for about half of your arch or even less if you elect to place the ball of your foot on the step.

To compensate somewhat, the Ronstan step has cast into its step surface six fairly sharp teeth. Theyre intended to grip the bottom of rubber-soled boat shoes; it also means you wouldnt go up the mast barefooted.

We wouldn’t consider for an instant going up the mast with these steps unless we were wearing a harness or chair on either a tended halyard or, if singlehanded, one with a sliding cam cleat we will be discussing in a moment.

The Folding Steps The two folding steps, both made of cast aluminum, may appear in the photo to be identical. Theyre the two on the top right. In one of the photos, theyre shown in the stowed position.

Each is made up of two aluminum castings.

One casting is a movable step with a tread about 4-1/2″ long with non-skid gooves and a prominent hook on the outer edge for lateral security.

The other casting, to be mounted on the mast with four fasteners (aluminum rivets would be our choice), is shaped to permit the step to be folded up when not needed and slid down to lock in place.

As one ascends the mast, the steps are popped up and open. Those who own and use this type of step probably only forget once or twice to fold and stow each and every step while descending.

They make good, long, wide footholds; as handholds, both serve better than any others. They don’t foul halyards. Windage? About medium. Theyre a bit heavy, about 10 ounces.

The Mast Walker, made by Damage Control, is smoothly made of Almag 35. Theres evidence of careful shaping, fitting, grinding and polishing. It operates easily and has a nylon button insert, threaded for adjustment, to bear against the mast and preclude rattling.

There are six versions of the Mast Walker to fit different mast curvatures. Priced at $14.50, the Mast Walker would be especially attractive for anyone looking for a good snug fit.

The ABI folding step, well polished and anodized, also has the important nylon insert that engages the mast when the step is folded. (The ABI step used to have a black rubber button, but somebody must have decided that the adjustable nylon button was worth copying.) With either make of step, the button should be adjusted before mounting, if possible. Youll see why, on the first one you mount.

The ABI step is sold by West Marine for $15.99.

There seems to us to be little to choose between these two well-made folding steps whose principal advantages are that they reduce windage, avoid snagging lines and eliminate corrosion (if mounted with aluminum rivets).

Another folding step, also made by ABI and sold in several catalogs for $14, is more commonly used as a transom step. However, ABI feels this heavy (15-ounce) chromed brass assembly can be used on a mast. In the photos, it is the second from the top left. It folds and is held firmly by a stainless spring. It does not, however, fold quite flush enough to the mast to preclude it from snagging a 1/2″ halyard. That and its weight, plus the mish-mash of metals, make it a choice wed avoid.

A Demountable Step In the photos, half way up the left side of the mast, is another mans approach to mast steps.

Looking for a better way or the best of all worlds, Alfred Gilbert fashioned his Fastep from two pieces of 1/4″ stainless rod. Bent properly and assembled with four simple welds, the Fastep is, for an open step, very strong and quite secure.

More importantly, Fasteps can be mounted when needed and demounted coming down. No windage, no fouling, no fasteners.

Fasteps can, of course, be left in place, in which case there would be a little windage and the threat of a fouled halyard. If you mount and demount them as needed, there is, of course, the risk of dropping one.

A Fastep requires only two holes in the mast. Gilbert admits the holes are a bit fussy but he supplies stick-on templates, instructions to keep the holes perpendicular to a fore and aft line (not to the curvature of the mast) and suggests a center punch and a bradpoint bit to get clean 9/32″ holes.

Going up the mast with a canvas bucket of Fasteps, the steps are inserted in the two holes and pulled down 90 to seat them snugly in place. They have small nylon-tubing fenders to make them fit snugly and not vibrate. Coming down, a step is rotated upward 90 and pulled free of the two holes.

Gilbert strongly recommends that his Fasteps ($12.95 each) be used with what he calls a Saf-Brak. The Saf-Brak is a 12″ web strap with a cam cleat device on one end and, on the other, a locking carabiner to attach to a good harness or soft boatswains chair. The cam cleat assembly, from an Idaho mountaineering gear manufacturer, seems, by marine standards, a bit clap trappy but its certainly rugged. Rigged on a taut, stowed halyard, the Saf-Brak rides up easily as one climbs up the mast, but belays securely with a down load. One would lift the strap momentarily and slide it down a bit when coming down the mast one step at a time.

The Saf-Brak, which sells for $68.95, is a sort of store-bought Prusik knot but better, because Prusik knots can jam and require two hands to work loose. (The Prusik knot, really a hitch, was invented during World War I by an Austrian professor of music, Dr. Karl Prusik, as a way to join the broken strings of musical instruments. There are several versions, one of which, made of tape or webbing, is what is called a Chinese finger. Mountain-climbing experts using two Prusik slings, both led through a ring on a harness to foot stirrups, have climbed 100′ in about one minute.)

With the Fastep system, a mast ascent will take a bit longer than with permanent steps. And, in addition to your bag of tools for whatever job it is youre about to perform, youll have a second bag of steps to contend with. In a controlled situation this doesn’t worry us, but if going up the mast underway, the extra time and fuss could be a liability.

The Bottom Line There are here probably more than the usual personal preferences to be sorted out. Included are cost, comfort, safety, windage, esthetics, whether you fear halyard fouling and how many holes it takes to make you uneasy about your mast.

For those who want permanently installed steps and care little about windage or esthetics, the Pace-Edwards trapezoid is a good choice.

If you want an open folding step that creates less windage and is a bit more sightly, choose either the Mast Walker or the ABIs nearly identical folding aluminum step.

If very little windage and no fear of fouling is your wont, consider the small, strong Ronstan…but only if youre willing to be faithful about using a harness attached to something that will catch you if you slip.

Best overall? Unless theres something weve missed, a canvas bag of Fasteps, used in conjunction with the Saf Brak, makes sense. They can be left in place, which we wouldnt do. No fasteners and only two holes per step. Mounted only when needed, thered be no corrosion fears, nothing to foul halyards, nothing unsightly.

And if youre going up alone with any of these steps, wed recommend the use of the Saf Brak.

Contacts- ABI, 1160A Industrial Ave., Petaluma, CA 94952, 707/765-6200. Defender Industries, 42 Great Neck Road, Waterford, CT 06385, 800/628-8225. Fastep & Saf Brak, Alfred Gilbert Enterprises, 2921 Wood Pipe Lane, Phila., PA 19129, 215/849-4016. Mast Walker, Damage Control, 7670 Bay St., Pasadena, MD 21122-3433, 410/360-2445. Pace-Edwards, 2400 Commercial Blvd., Centralia, WA 98531, 800/338-3697. Ronstan, 7600 Bryan Dairy Rd., Largo, FL 33777, 813/545-1911. West Marine, 500 Westridge Dr., Watsonville, CA 95076, 800/262-8464.

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Replacing Your Sailboat Rigging

By Wendy Mitman Clarke
Updated: March 23, 2020

Whether you’re buying a used sailboat that’s new to you or you’ve owned your boat for decades, the standing rigging is what keeps the mast in place, and thus requires particular attention. How do you know when it’s time to re-rig? There are some obvious answers to this one — for instance, if your wire rigging has broken strands or if it’s suffering from “candy-striping,” i.e., rust-colored streaks swirling down the wire. The latter may indicate two things: one, that it’s simply surface rust, which you should be able to polish off, or two, that as the wire was being manufactured, a strand might have picked up some contamination during the process and is compromised, which is cause for concern. A third visual indicator are cracks in swaged fittings, some of the most common end fittings for wire. Cracks are hard to see (use a magnifying glass), and sometimes marks that look like cracks can be left by the machine used to create the swage. Then there’s just age, and this factor as a reason to re-rig is more subject to a boat’s history than anything else.

“There’s a rule of thumb, but it varies rigger to rigger,” says Steve Madden, co-owner of M Yacht Services in Annapolis and the head of its M Rigging division. “My belief is that you should be replacing your sailboat’s standing rigging every 10 to 15 years.” But this time frame also is variable, depending on the boat’s purpose and use. For instance, for an offshore bluewater boat, Madden recommends 10 years, and for a serious coastal cruiser, more like 12.

“The biggest thing we like to have is the history of the boat: what kind of boat it is, how it’s been sailed and where has it been sailed,” says Jay Herman, owner of Annapolis Rigging. “That history will affect what kind of life you get out of your standing rigging.” Some insurance companies, he says, will require a re-rig if you’re purchasing a used boat that has standing rigging older than 15 years.

Either way, Jimmie Cockerill, co-owner of the Rigging Company in Annapolis, recommends that for a sailboat with wire rigging, the mast should be pulled and all fittings and wire visually inspected every five to six years. And although rod rigging may be able to last longer than wire, it too needs to be serviced every five to six years to get the most life out of it. Sticking to the 10-year rule, Madden says, means that for the most part, any corrosion or failure points will be eliminated with a re-rig.

How the rigging has been tuned is also part of a boat’s story. For instance, Madden says, he recently had a customer whose 46-foot cutter had a rigging failure at six years. The customer had had the boat re-rigged, and during a trip to the BVI, the new wire stretched. The owner didn’t adjust the rigging to compensate for the stretch for several seasons. “That was a case of not knowing that the worst thing you can do to standing rigging is have it loose on the leeward side,” he says. “Sailboat rigging very rarely fails from being overloaded. There’s such a safety margin in rigging. So you’re sailing offshore and you’re looking at the windward shroud that’s taut, and that’s not the one to worry about. It’s when the leeward side starts flopping around that you’re asking for trouble.”

Stainless steel has a finite number of cycles — essentially, movements, whether fore and aft or side to side. “The theory is that it can take 10 to 15 years of cycling, but this continual motion when it’s unloaded is what fatigues the wire,” Madden says. “There’s no real way of measuring that. Die testing won’t pick it up, and it’s rare that a wire will give you warning before breaking.”

So how often should standing rigging be replaced? For all of these reasons, most riggers agree that when your sailboat’s standing rigging approaches 15 years old, it’s a good time to consider replacing it.

Wire or Rod Sailboat Rigging?

Riggers say the question of whether to rig with wire or rod is usually fairly easily answered: Run what you brung. In other words, if your boat already has rod rigging, with all of the end fittings to terminate the rods both on deck and in or on the mast, then sticking with rod will ultimately be less expensive than making the switch to wire. Likewise, if you already have wire with fittings that accommodate your boat and mast, stick with wire. Aside from the relative cost differences between rod and wire (rod is more expensive), what also makes a switch pricey is having to significantly modify the mast to accept the different rigging.

Although rod rigging is more common on racing boats, many well-known cruising-boat builders, such as Valiant, Bristol, J/Boats and Hinckley, have rod-rigged models. The benefits of rod are less stretch, less weight, less windage, and arguably longer life than wire, because there’s less possibility for corrosion of the rod itself.

That said, some sailors prefer wire over rod for a number of reasons. First, it’s easier to fix in remote places and on your own. With a spare mechanical end fitting, wire and the proper tools, you can replace a stay pretty much anywhere. Similarly, it’s easier to find usable replacement parts far from busy ports. Wire rigging is generally less expensive and easier to handle. Finally, rod rigging requires a particular type of terminus — called a cold head — that can be fabricated only with a purpose-built machine, which only a rigging shop will have. You cannot use a mechanical fitting on rod rigging.

In the past, long-distance cruisers typically chose wire rigging with mechanical fittings for all of these reasons. They also would carry a piece of wire as long as the longest stay on the boat — coiled and stowed, which undeniably was sometimes easier said than done — as well as spare end fittings and the tools needed to replace a broken shroud or stay. Today, with the advent of super-strong synthetic line such as AmSteel and Dyneema, the need for that extra wire and gear is eliminated. For instance, the Rigging Company makes a spare-stay kit that can accommodate either wire or rod rigging repairs, Cockerill says. It has a synthetic stay with an eye splice, a toolless turnbuckle (the Handy Lock, made by C. Sherman Johnson), quick-release fast pins with an attached lanyard, several high-strength Dyneema loops, and even a heavy-duty zip tie to fish loops in and out of holes in a mast.

“The idea is you come on deck with this small canvas bag and make it happen,” Cockerill says. “Let’s say you ripped a tang out of the mast; you can use a Dyneema loop to create another attachment point. A smaller loop is a makeshift chainplate attachment — you can attach it to a neighboring chainplate and attach the stay to it. It’s good enough to get you to safety and someplace you can make a more permanent repair.” Riggers say very few sailors re-rig from wire to rod or the reverse, but if switching is on your mind, have a professional make a full assessment first.

There are so many variables in the system — types of end fittings, types of masts, types of attachment points — that each boat will have its own specific requirements that can affect cost. For that reason, it’s difficult to give an accurate estimate of the cost of making the switch, even for an average 40-footer.

End Fittings for Sailboat Rigging

All standing rigging, whether rod or wire, has to end in a fitting that attaches to the deck and mast. The three most commonly used types of attachments are swaged and mechanical fittings for wire, and cold heads for rod. Generally, end fittings fall into a few classes: studs, eyes, forks and hooks, each of which comes in a dizzying array of sizes and configurations. There are multiple combinations and variations: For instance, if your mast has double tangs, most likely the end fitting will be an eye — although it can be a marine eye or an aircraft eye, which differ primarily in shape. All rod rigging terminates in a cold head, which accommodates the end fitting or is encapsulated by the end fitting. This could be a marine eye, a marine fork, a T-head or a J-hook, among others.

A swaged fitting is a terminus that’s attached using a machine called a swager. It rolls the end fitting through two opposing dies and compresses the fitting on the wire so tightly that it can’t pull out. “The theory is that you’ve crushed it so tightly that all the wires inside have just merged into one solid piece of stainless,” Madden says. Swaging must be professionally done, and the result is extremely strong and generally has a long life. Top manufacturers of swaged fittings are Hayn Marine Rigging Products, Alexander Roberts and C. Sherman Johnson.

Mechanical fittings can be applied using a few common hand tools by the mechanically handy DIY sailor, which is one reason they’re popular. The two primary manufacturers of mechanical fittings presently are Sta-Lok and Petersen Stainless, which produces Hi-MOD. Both are located in the U.K., and the products are distributed in the U.S. through vendors like Hayn, West Marine, Defender, and local chandleries and riggers. Generally, they consist of either three or four parts (Sta-Lok has three; Hi-MOD has four), including a sleeve; a cone; in Hi-MOD’s case, a crown wheel; and the terminal (an eye, fork, stud, etc.). If you follow directions, they are fairly straightforward to install, although not especially easy. “The mechanical fasteners are great in that you can terminate and then look inside to be sure it’s formed correctly, so you do have a way of inspecting your work,” Madden says.

However, they generally cost more than a swaged fitting; Herman says while Hi-MOD’s newer mechanical fittings are “definitely more user-friendly to assemble, they’re twice the cost of a swaged fitting.” Some riggers will recommend swaged fittings for the mast end of the rigging and mechanical fittings at the deck level: Corrosion is less prevalent at the top of the mast, and you can more easily and regularly inspect mechanical fittings at deck level, where they’re frequently subjected to salt water

Should You Replace Your Sailboat’s Rigging Yourself?

So you’ve determined your sailboat’s standing rigging needs work. Do you hire a pro or go it alone? Good question. Yes, doing it yourself will theoretically save money. For an average 40-foot boat, Cockerill estimates about $100 per foot to re-rig with wire rigging ($4,000), as well as the round-trip cost to haul and launch the boat and unstep and step the rig (an additional $2,500 or so). By taking on the labor yourself, you’ll probably save as much as $2,000 on the re-rigging cost, he says. Madden says that cost isn’t linear, though; as you go up in size (a bigger boat needs heavier wire and larger fittings), you’ll spend more. He’d estimate more like $4,600 for a 40-foot boat, but all of these numbers depend on how much is involved: Are there furlers? What kind of end fittings? Are the chainplates sound? Depending on the answers to those questions and others, a professionally done re-rig for a 40-footer could be closer to $6,000 or more.

If you go DIY, you will be limited to mechanical end fittings unless you hire a rigger to swage your end fittings. The Rigging Company gears much of its sales to DIY sailors and is beginning an e-commerce site to cater specifically to handy individuals. But Cockerill says it quickly becomes evident whether an owner feels comfortable enough to do the work. “You should be mechanically inclined,” he says, “and the way to find that out is if I start talking all this technical jargon and you decide whether you’re suited to handle that at all.”

Additionally, a DIY sailor needs to do plenty of research, particularly when it comes to wire quality, which is something professional sailboat rigging companies watch like hawks. Although anyone can walk into a local chandlery and buy wire, that doesn’t mean the wire is of the highest quality. Marine-suitable stainless wire is called 316 grade, but even that doesn’t mean you’re necessarily getting high-quality wire. Much depends on where it is manufactured; Herman and other riggers say the best wire today is coming from South Korea through a manufacturer called KOS, making wire to military specifications. It’s imported and sold through distributors like Alps Wire Rope.

“We only sell guaranteed-content, guaranteed-process wire,” Herman says. “There are other wires out there that are cheaper, but they’re not guaranteed.”

As for sources of wire and fittings, there are many, including major chandleries and vendors, like West Marine and Defender, as well as some private riggers, like Annapolis Rigging and the Rigging Company, which will work with you to define what you need and help you source parts and materials.

One thing all the riggers I spoke with expressed emphatically was that stainless steel needs oxygen to create a fine film of oxidation that protects the metal. The fastest route to crevice corrosion is to cover the metal with plastic or leather turnbuckle covers or to coat the fittings in tape. Enough tape to cover a cotter pin suffices; otherwise, leave the metal open to the air. Likewise, if you are re-rigging your sailboatboat, use the opportunity to check your chainplates (easily the subject of another article entirely), since that’s one of the most common points of rigging failure.

Another factor in your DIY decision-making process is simple: peace of mind. “Most of my clients say to me without any prompting, ‘This is one area I feel should be done by a professional,’’’ Madden says. “You’re out there offshore and there’s a squall coming and you start worrying about the craziest of things, and you don’t want to have any unknowns.” That’s especially true of the system that keeps the mast and sails up.

Wendy Mitman Clarke is currently between passages. She’s the director of media relations at Washington College in Chestertown, Maryland, and she and her family continue to pine and plan for the day they can return to the cruising life.

More: How To , mast , Refits , rig , rigging , sails and rigging , Upgrades
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How Much Does a Sailboat Mast Replacement Cost?

Now I won't ask why you are researching mast replacement - the story behind it is probably tragic and I don't wanna cry as I do whenever I see an injured sailboat. But it is what it is and you simply need a new mast. Let's have a look at how much this will cost, how much of that price is negotiable, and what you need to pay attention to - so that you don't need the services of this article anytime soon.

Replacing a mast costs between $15,000 - $30,000 for an average sailboat. Out of that, $4,000 - $6,000 is the cost of labor. The mast itself costs between $10,000 - $25,000. The total cost of a sailboat mast replacement raises exponentially as you go up in boat size.

But since there are many variables in this, let's have a look at it in more detail to make sure you only pay for what you need.

Replacing a mast rarely happens without replacing the standing rigging as a whole - which are the wires that hold the mast in place. So for the sake of simplicity and useability, this will be mentioned in the article. But in case you came here to find out what replacing only the mast will cost, let's have a look. In short, this will cost you around $7,000 - $15,000 for an average-sized sailboat.

But since there are a lot of variables at play here, please take the above figure with a grain of salt - the price is very much dependent on the size and age. As for the size, I am talking about 30-something-footers, and as for the age, I am talking about new masts.

Thus if your boat is bigger, the figure won't apply to you anymore. Similarly, if you just bought an older, $20,000 sailboat and you don't exactly fancy spending half of its price on a new mast, chances are you will pick something used, and then you can find a mast in a reasonable condition for around $2,000.

Buying a second-hand mast is possible, but do make sure it is in a condition worth the money you are paying for it. We will talk about what that condition is later too.

That's it for just the mast, but even if you only came for this figure, don't leave us yet. We will talk about various other costs associated with this operation. After all, it doesn't end with just purchasing the spare parts.

Realistically speaking, chances are that if your mast needs replacement, so does your standing rigging. If the mast is too old, the standing rigging is likely aged too. If the mast got damaged, the standing rigging probably did too. So most of the time, it has to be factored in the cost.

Don't worry though, it is not a significant addition to the overall sum, at least proportionally speaking.

So how much will this set you back? On an average boat with a 30 or so foot length, the standing rigging is likely to cost around $1,500 and upwards. Don't go too far up though, if the quotes you are receiving from riggers in your area go over $2,000, start being suspicious. Not that there is no good reason for the higher price, but do ask questions.

Now, if your boat is bigger than the 30-or-so-footers that we take as the averagely sized boat and you are doing the math in your head now to see what figure applies to you, hold on a second - the price here goes up exponentially, not in a linear fashion. So going up ten feet from the above estimation can easily mean doubling the price, not just adding fifty percent to it.

There is no conspiracy behind this. It is so mostly because the rigging's length goes up, but so does its width. Bigger boats need stronger rigging, and thus your price is growing twice as fast.

As mentioned at the beginning of this article, quite a large chunk of the whole deal is the cost of the work that's gotta be done to put the rigging up. So some might be inclined to do this themselves to save some dollars. Whether this will be worth the time is a question.

Such an endeavor requires a lot of research, not just when it comes to attaching everything that's gotta be attached, but also choosing the right kinds of wires. Not any old wire is up to the job; sailboat rigging has to withstand much more than what the usual manufacturing norm offers.

It will also cost a lot of time, so unless you are prepared to spend it on the repair, don't do it. You might end up hating your boat, and that isn't worth it.

That all being said, if you do want to go at it yourself, you might be saving something over $100 per foot of sailboat length - that is the approximate cost of work required for re-rigging a sailboat. So a 30 something sailboat would set you back some $4,000.

Things don't end here though. There is the cost associated with unstepping the mast, for which you are likely to need a crane. You might want to do this whole thing on dry land, so when calculating, factor in taking the boat out of the water, moving it around, perhaps towing it somewhere, all of which requires time, equipment, and manpower that, if outsourced, might cost around $2,000. And since even if you do this yourself, you will probably have to rent the crane and the trailer, not much is to be saved here.

Replacement of the rigging has to be done every now and then, but to make sure you don't do it more often than necessary, here are a few tips on how to have your boat rigging live as long as possible.

First of all, if you are currently unsure about whether your rigging needs replacing, you can hire a rigger for around $80 to inspect your boat and tell you the state of it. Make sure they are an honest person; it's their job to replace rigging, so telling them yours has a few good years ahead of it still is not exactly in their business interest.

There is a way to check things yourself. Make sure to visually inspect the mast foot, which will be either on the deck or below, if it is connected to the keel. If you see any sign of corrosion, that's bad news. So if you are buying a boat and this is what you find, either don't go for it or expect repairs.

Visual inspection of the rigging works the same way. Visible signs of corrosion are a bad sign, things looking out of order too, luckily consulting the internet can give you a good idea of how what should look even if you are doing this for the first time in your life.

As for the body of the mast, it is okay to have a few scratches on it, but make sure you repair them - the mast is usually coated to protect against corrosion, and scratches tend to go through this coating. The same applies to dings that might have been created because of metal components attached to the lines smacking against the mast. While these won't likely impact the structural integrity of the mast, they can damage the coating. Make sure your lines are in a position where the dings won't happen or that the metal components are wrapped in something to protect the mast.

Speaking of the mast, check whether it is straight. If it bends slightly back, that is considered okay, but any other direction means the rigging isn't holding it in place properly.

And unless this inspection happens after taking the mast down, it is time to go up - hoist yourself all the way up to inspect the mast in its entirety. Check for scratches but also inspect the spreaders. These should be straight and all angled the same way.

Replacing the mast as well as the standing rigging can be a costly endeavor, but one that is a necessary part of a boat owner's life. It will very likely set you back thousands of dollars, but if you take care of your boat well, inspect it regularly and do small maintenance repairs when needed, you will avoid the replacements for as long as possible.

It is also a good idea to pay attention to the rigging when buying a used boat. Because of how much this costs and because much of the rigging tends to be up and thus out of sight, it pays off to have a look at it closely - every now and then some eager sailor buys a second-hand sailboat only to find they have to pay half the cost of the whole vessel for repairs. And that just doesn't make sense.

Jamie Smith

When was this written please? Just need to know when the costs quoted were current.

The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

How to Step a Mast Single-Handed With or Without Using the Boom as a Gin Pole

How do you step the mast on your trailerable sailboat? With a gin pole? With the trailer winch? With the help of friends or family? With your fingers crossed? No single system works for every sailboat or for every skipper. If you’re new to mast stepping, you don’t like your current method, or you just want to simplify or speed up the process, this post is for you. I must warn you though, this is a long post, even for me. To make it as short as possible, I’ve included five YouTube videos that show how this system works. By the end of this post, you’ll know everything about how I step the mast on Summer Dance single-handed in minutes, even on the water.

I’ll describe two ways that I step the mast, including one way that doesn’t use a gin pole at all. Both are fast and mostly use the boat’s own rigging and very little extra gear.

I’ll also explain some topics that lead up to and follow mast stepping, like how I:

Use a DIY telescoping mast crutch for easier stepping and secure trailering.
Tie down the mast and rigging for trailering.
Keep my mast in tune without having to loosen and re-tighten the shroud turnbuckles to step the mast.

What do you really need?

When I started trailering Summer Dance years ago, I researched a lot about mast stepping. The Catalina 22 Owner’s Manual and General Handbook is pretty brief on the subject.

Walk the mast aft and drop the mast foot into the mast step on top of the deck, keeping the mast in center line of boat, insert the pivot bolt and locking nut. One crew member should pull on a line tied securely to the forestay while another pushes up on the mast and walks from the cockpit forward. With the mast erect, attach the forestay and forward lower shrouds.

Poorly written but pretty simple, huh? One crew member pulls on the forestay while another pushes on the mast. That’s how the mast was designed to be stepped and it works well if you’re young, strong, and there are two or more of you to do the job.

But what if you don’t normally have a second able crew member? What if you need to step the mast on the water? What if you want to lower the mast to go under a bridge? What if you or your crew have a physical impairment that prevents them from performing one of the tasks? That system may not work for you and you need an alternative. If you believe in the rule that you should have a backup for every critical part and system, then you also need a backup mast stepping plan even if you normally step the mast with the factory recommended method.

I’ve read about lots of different systems. Maybe you have too:

Factory-built gin poles, braces, guy wires, and mast-ups
DIY wooden gin poles with winches, bridles, and brace poles
Blocks attached to the pulpit to reuse the trailer winch cable
Electric winches on the trailer or in the tow vehicle
Jumbo bungee cord connected to the forestay
Assorted Rube Goldberg variations on all the above

They all struck me as overkill for the real problem. What do you really need once you have the mast bolted to the step? What do all of these system have in common? Some mechanical advantage to raise the mast and a way to keep it from swinging too far sideways until the shrouds tighten.

If you’ve read this blog for very long at all, you know that I’m really big on reusing or repurposing things for other uses. It’s something of a prerequisite to be a stingy sailor. If you’re lucky, it’s in your DNA and it comes easily to you. Being an armchair engineer qualifies too.

Let’s see — sailboat design is all about capturing, multiplying, and redirecting forces for mechanical advantage: the hull, keel, rudder, mast, sails, rigging, almost everything. What’s the most compact, portable piece of gear on a sailboat that creates mechanical advantage? The main sheet or the boom vang typically multiplies the force applied to it by three or four times. What are all gin poles in their most basic form? A big stick. Is there already a long, stiff, portable, stick onboard? The boom. Can we raise and lower the mast single-handed with the main sheet and the boom?

As it turns out, it’s really pretty easy to do. But it’s not very easy to describe in words, so rather than write an entire book about it, I’ve made a series of short videos that each show a different aspect of my mast stepping system. I’ll give you an overview of each aspect in the text below but to really get it, you should watch the videos.

Getting it to the water

Besides being simpler, one of the basic principles of this system is to make launching and retrieving the boat as quick as possible while also being safe. That starts with securing the mast and rigging for trailering. For me, it has to be secure enough to tow for a hundred miles over bumpy state highways and county backroads to my favorite cruising spots. This is in north Idaho, mind you, which is relatively remote compared to the Florida coast or southern California.

I use a combination of DIY mast supports, motorcycle straps, and inexpensive ball cords to secure the rig. The mast is supported on both ends and in the middle. This follows closely the Catalina 22 Owner’s Manual and General Handbook recommendation.

Tie the mast and boom securely to the bow and stern pulpits. The spars should also be supported in the middle by the cabin top. Pad the mast at all contact points to prevent damage.

No tools or knot tying are needed for my system and any one of them works in seconds and stows easily either onboard or in my pickup.

Here’s a tour of the rig tied down just before I step the mast.

The previous video mentions my DIY mast stepper, also called a Mastup by a popular online Catalina parts retailer. I haven’t yet devoted a blog post to it but it was pretty easy to make. If you’re interested in a fabrication drawing and materials list, keep reading to the end of this post and a special offer.

I bought the steel myself from the cutoff pile at a local metal distributor. I took the metal and my drawing to a local welder who advertised on craigslist.com. I painted and assembled it myself. The total cost was half the price of the commercial version and in some ways, works even better. I especially like the D rings, which make it simple to secure the top of the mast stepper to the aft mooring cleats while trailering. It holds the mast very solid that way. And because the pintles are welded in place instead of adjustable, they can’t accidentally loosen and drop the mast.

Following is a close-up video of just the mast stepper. You can see it in action in the last two videos.

Setting up the boom as a gin pole

The basic theory of a gin pole is to lift a heavy object below one end while it remains stationary at the other end. Support lines called guys position the lifting end over the object that is raised. A mast raising gin pole has one end stationary near the base of the mast, uses the forestay to support the lifting end, and uses a winch or a block and tackle to theoretically raise the bow of the sailboat to the end of the gin pole. In reality, the bow stays stationary and the entire gin pole system including its base (the mast) are raised towards the bow.

Most C-22 gin poles use one of two methods to attach the gin pole to the mast:

A peg on one end of the pole that fits in a hole in the mast (the factory system for 2nd generation C-22s)
A saddle on the end of the gin pole that fits around and is strapped to the mast (most DIY systems)

Neither of those gin poles serve any purpose after the mast is raised. They’re useless extra weight that takes extra storage space.

The system I use attaches using a small right angle bracket. I fabricated it out of a piece of scrap aluminum I already had. One side of the bracket is bolted through the mast step and the cabin top in front of the mast. The other side the bracket points upward and has a 1/4″ hole through it to act as a hinge for the gooseneck (stationary lower) end of the boom. If you’re a follower of this blog and have the password, you can find a scale drawing of this bracket on the Downloads page.

I connect the gooseneck fitting to the bracket with the same quick pin (drop cam or toggling bimini type) that I use to connect the gooseneck fitting to the mast slide while sailing. The pin is tethered to the boom with a stainless steel lanyard so it can’t get lost and it’s always near at hand.

I connect the forestay to a shackle on the top side of the (upper) end of the boom. On the opposite (bottom) side of the boom from the forestay, I connect the end of my main sheet tackle that doesn’t have the cam cleat. This is the same configuration as when the main sheet is attached for sailing. I connect the other end of the main sheet (that’s normally attached to the traveler car) to the stem plate where the forestay is normally attached.

To hold the boom vertical during raising, I sometimes use two pieces of pre-tied accessory cord. They connect to the sides of the boom with clips through the eye straps where my boom topping lift and jiffy reefing lines attach. The other ends of the cords have loops tied into them that I tie to the upper ends of the midship lifeline stanchions with girth (cow) hitches. The mast step is nearly in-line with the tops of the stanchions, so the cords rotate around the same pivot point as the mast and the boom.

If your sailboat doesn’t have the same style of gooseneck fitting as a Catalina 22 or you can’t use your boom for some other reason but you do have a spinnaker pole, you might be able to use it instead as this picture from a Westerly 21 owner shows. This picture also shows that a gin pole can be a great help with lifting the extra weight added by a furler.

That’s kind of hard to visualize, so here’s a short video that takes you on a tour of the setup.

This is a stickup with a boom!

After I rig the boom like shown above, the hard part is over. The rest is just pulling the main sheet with one hand while I steady the mast with my other hand. I also watch the stays and shrouds to be sure they don’t catch on anything as they raise off the deck.

With the main sheet cam cleat at the stem plate, I can easily stop raising the mast at any point, cleat the line with a sharp tug, and then clear snags or move to a better lifting position. Then I uncleat the main sheet at the stem plate first and hold light tension on the main sheet while I get into position to resume raising the mast.

The mast only needs to be held centered until it reaches about a 45° angle. Then the upper shrouds begin to tighten and they hold it centered the rest of the way up.

When the mast is vertical, I reconnect the forestay and forward lower shrouds using quick release levers . The mast is back in tune and requires no further adjustment. I disconnect the boom from the system and attach it in its normal place between the mast slide and the topping lift or backstay pendant. I disconnect the main sheet and attach it to the traveler car. All I need to put away are the two accessory cords if I used them, which I typically only do when it’s windy, when I’m setting up in a unlevel area, or on the water when its choppy.

Here’s a video showing the entire process completed in about 4 and a half leisurely minutes.

Single-handed speed stepping

In good conditions (light breeze, level area, or calm water), I skip over using the boom as a gin pole entirely and just use the main sheet to pull the mast up by the forestay. It saves several minutes and is nearly as easy to do but you should be fitter than average to attempt it. It’s the single-handed equivalent of having a crew member in front of the boat pull a line attached to the forestay. Bystanders seem to enjoy watching me raise the mast by myself in seconds.

Here’s what it looks like when it’s done on the water.

Back to the beginning

At the end of a road trip, I never look forward to tearing down Summer Dance , pulling her out of the water, and tying her down for the ride home. I’ve had a great time but I’m tired and there’s many miles to go before I sleep. I don’t want to spend an hour lowering the mast and tying the rig down. I want it to be quick and simple.

Almost always, I lower the mast without using the boom as a gin pole even if I raised it that way. A gin pole is just not usually necessary so long as the mast comes down slow enough and lands in the crutch. You might not want to do it that way your first few times, so here’s what it looks like using the boom as a gin pole.

Then I tie it all down in a few minutes like shown in the first video.

Special offer for blog followers

Whew! That’s a lot of info. If you stuck with me through it, I really appreciate it. I want to thank you by offering not one, but two free bonuses to my blog followers.

The first is the launch checklist that I use to prepare and launch Summer Dance . It’s two pages of items that can help make sure you don’t forget something important for your next cruise — everything from an umbrella for the first mate while she waits for you to step the mast, to step-by-step instructions that you can have on deck for the gin pole method described above. Use it as a starting point to add and remove items to make your own checklist.

The second bonus is a dimensioned drawing and materials list for my DIY mast crutch that is described at the beginning of this post. Use it to build your own and save some money for something else.

If you’re already a subscriber to this blog, you can download both of the free bonuses from my Downloads page using the password that you received when you subscribed. If you’re not already a subscribed to this blog, sign up and you’ll join the thousands of other stingy sailors. Just enter your email address in the box at the bottom of this page and then click the Subscribe button. You can unsubscribe at any time and I won’t share your address with anyone, ever.

I hope you’ve picked up some tips from this post that you can use to optimize your mast stepping system and spend more time on the water.

Would you like to be notified when I publish more posts like this? Enter your email address below to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. You will also receive occasional newsletters with exclusive info and deals only for followers and the password to the Downloads page. It’s free and you can unsubscribe at any time but almost nobody does!

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Mike Lynch’s Sunken Superyacht Is Largely Intact, Italian Officials Say

I talian investigators searching the wreckage of the Bayesian superyacht said it appeared largely intact, a discovery that contradicts earlier eyewitnesses who said its mast had snapped when it sank in Monday’s storm.

Divers are reporting that the 180-foot-long yacht was lying on its side on the ocean floor, an Italian coast guard official said Wednesday. “The divers are looking for structural damage on the hull,” the official said.

The early reports from Italian officials appeared to be at odds with witnesses who had said the aluminum mast snapped during a violent thunderstorm when the vessel sank off the coast of Sicily with 22 people on board, including owner Mike Lynch, a U.K. tech billionaire.

The towering mast on the Bayesian stretched nearly 240 feet into the sky—making the superyacht the tallest luxury sailboat when it was built.

Maritime experts said a broken mast of that height could cause serious damage to a vessel, but the design isn’t a safety concern as long as the masts are well maintained and held tightly upright on the hull by cables called stays.

“Bigger masts support bigger sails and higher sailing speeds,” said Takis Tsakos, a veteran captain who also oversees for clients the construction of superyachts such as the Bayesian at yards in Europe and the U.S. “The yacht fans love the bigger masts because they look marvelous and give the vessel more volume. They are especially impressive at night when they are lit up.”

The Bayesian’s mast could have fallen on the hull, damaging it, or could have been uprooted from its base by the strong winds if the stays weren’t tight enough. Yacht captains say loose stays can make a boat tilt as much as 15 degrees even with the sails folded.

“That would have made a gaping hole and water could have rushed in. It was also a relaxed evening—doors and windows could have been open with more water coming in as the boat tilted,” said Tsakos, founder of Athens-based Yachtways GP, which rents out luxury yachts in the Mediterranean. “These will be determined when the yacht is pulled out of the water.”

The people missing and presumed dead in the sinking of the Bayesian include Lynch, his daughter, a top executive at Morgan Stanley and one of Lynch’s lawyers. The group was celebrating Lynch’s acquittal on U.S. fraud charges.

Italian authorities are continuing to investigate the accident and divers are trying to access the sunken hull. Rescue teams located five bodies from the wreck on Wednesday. The body of the boat’s chef was retrieved from the sea on Tuesday.

Masts must meet the safety standards of classification societies that give the green light for a ship to sail and monitor its maintenance over the years. Oversize masts on superyachts are turned by computer so they face the wind straight on and not sideways even when the sails are folded.

“For a vessel of this size to go down, there must have been tremendous ingress of water inside its enclosed spaces,” said Fotis Pagoulatos, a naval architect who has participated in a number of shipwreck investigations. “Its design allows it to stay afloat, even with two compartments flooded.” He said he wouldn’t be surprised if the yacht’s hull is found cracked and buckled from the forces exerted by the freak weather and possibly the cracked mast.

The single-masted Bayesian was built by Italian company Perini Navi and delivered in 2008 to its original owner. The boat, which was taller than it was long, was one of a class of supersize luxury yachts that cruise the Mediterranean and other hot spots.

Formerly known as Salute, it was one of several that Perini Navi built that was 56 meters long. But its sister ships had shorter masts—generally extending 59 meters, compared with about 72 meters for the Bayesian. Perini Navi didn’t return requests for comment.

The Bayesian has been eclipsed by newer boats owned by other billionaires. Jeff Bezos, the Amazon.com founder, commissioned the 127-meter-tall Koru, a three-masted vessel that was delivered in 2023.

The Koru was so tall that in 2022 it sparked a protest over plans to dismantle a bridge to let it sail out of the Dutch port where it was built. Instead, the ship was towed to another shipyard to have its masts mounted.

Still, the Bayesian remained one of the largest private sailing yachts. It was ordered by a Dutch businessman but, in 2005, he was paralyzed in a yachting accident and it was sold on completion to another Dutch owner and renamed Salute, according to yacht brokers.

In 2014, it was sold to an entity owned by Angela Bacares, Lynch’s wife, and renamed Bayesian. It has no racing history, but boats of this size compete in events such as the St Barths Bucket Regatta, an annual race in the Caribbean, and in the Perini Navi Cup, a four-day race near Sardinia.

Perini Navi is known for creating some of the world’s most famous and luxurious sailing yachts, including the 88-meter-long Maltese Falcon, one of the world’s most recognizable sailing yachts, with rotating masts and a futuristic design.

The masts of the Maltese Falcon are 57 meters tall.

Write to Costas Paris at [email protected]

Mike Lynch’s Sunken Superyacht Is Largely Intact, Italian Officials Say

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Aluminum Sailboat Mast & Boom Extrusion

7 Popular Sailboats with Two Masts (With Pictures & Prices)

Sailboats can come with one, two, or even more masts. You can also have different-sized masts placed on the front, back, or middle of your vessel.

Below, I have listed popular sailboats that have two masts.

Let’s get started!

Table of Contents

Check also: Average sailboat price examples .

Things to Know About Sailboats With Two Masts

When looking for sailboats with two masts, you should know what you are looking for. A Ketch is one type of sailboat with two masts.

Knowing this term can help you to nail down your search when looking for a boat with two masts.

These boats come in many shapes and sizes as well as many different types of designs. Generally, these types of boats have the taller mast being forward and the smaller mast near the aft.

Yawls are also boats that feature two masts.

These also come in multiple types and designs. The difference between the Ketch and the Yawl is that the Yawl has the larger mast in the aft instead of forward. They also have smaller sails and can be easier to handle.

Another type of sailing ship that features two masts is a Brigantine.

This ship has mixed sailing rigs which commonly features squared sails on the front part of the ship and triangular sails on the back of the ship.

These boats are often larger and require more people to handle them.

7 Great Used Boats with Two Masts

There are many benefits to used boats including a lower cost. You can get a larger boat for a lower cost if you choose to buy used.

When looking at used boats, you need to make sure you look at the boat and its features thoroughly to make sure everything is in great working order.

If you do not feel confident that you can properly look over a used vessel, you can even hire a marine inspector to look it over and let you know of any potential issues or needed repairs. You can use this assessment to decide what is worth it, or if the needed repairs fall into the budget.

It is much more common for a used boat to have more than one mast. This is because the newer sailboat models are creating their new designs with just one mast.

One mast ships are easier to handle and manage so new designs are trying to optimize design and ease of sailing.

Below are great used sailboats with two masts which I have arranged by price .

1. 1976 Westerly Center Cockpit Ketch

This 1976 Westerly Center Cockpit Ketch is a small 36-foot long sailboat with two masts. This is a solidly built cruising vessel that features a center cockpit ketch layout.

This boat has a small 38 horsepower engine perfectly fit to navigate its smaller size.

The interior features 1 single berth and 3 double berths all in 3 cabins. This boat also has 2 full heads onboard.

You also have a full galley with a 4 burner stove, refrigerator and freezer, stainless steel sink, and microwave oven.

This boat makes great use of limited space and offers many amenities in a much smaller frame.

Price: $37,000.00

2. 1978 Jeanneau Gin Fizz

The 1978 Jeanneau Gin Fizz is a trusted and popular two-masted design capable of crossing the Atlantic Ocean .

This boat is also very spacious for a boat that is only 38 feet in length. This model also won an award for “security, comfort, ease of handling, and ability to handle varying conditions.”

This particular used model has been well maintained and upgraded over the years.

This boat is great for family cruising, offshore passages, and even racing.

This boat features a 50 horsepower engine to help navigation.

Inside you can find 2 cabins and 1 head. You will be highly comfortable with air conditioning and other interior luxuries.

Price: $46,000.00

3. 1979 Freedom 40

The Freedom 40 is a classically designed centerboard ketch with two masts. This boat is a great sailor loaded for cruising on the wide-open blue water.

This sailboat is 40 feet in length and features accommodations for six people that include a double-v berth, another double berth, and two single berths.

There is also a full head that can be accessed both from the main salon and aft cabin.

This boat was recently painted and features newer interior fabrics, forced air heating, and much more.

You can find a dinette with separate freezer and refrigeration compartments, a stove with an oven and broiler, a double stainless steel sink, plenty of storage, and other interior features.

This boat also comes with an outboard motor with 50 horsepower and a hard bottom inflatable dinghy.

Price: $54,900.00

4. 1977 Puma 38 Ketch

The Puma 38 Ketch is a two-masted sailboat built for racing like the rest of the Puma sailing line. This brand prides itself on speed and maneuverability.

The 1977 Puma 38 is 34 feet in length with a backup diesel engine that can help you get where you need to go as well as docking into a slip. This motor features more horsepower than the average sailboat with 45 horsepower.

Features on this vessel include autopilot, electrical and manual bilge pumps, a full marine head, running hot water, and refrigerator.

This boat is made of fiberglass with teak finishes and looks well kept. You can find this boat in Spain if you are interested in purchasing it.

Price: $66,099.00

5. 1973 Morgan Out Island 41

Originally designed by Charley Morgan, the Morgan Out Island 41 is a center cockpit shoal-draft cruiser that features two masts.

This larger boat is 41 feet 3 inches in length and features many amenities.

This boat is the tri-cabin version and features interior heating, pressurized hot and cold water, a 2 burner gas oven, and a fridge.

This boat also seats up to 7 in the 3 cabins and the saloon. There are also 2 full heads on this vessel.

This boat is even equipped with an inboard motor . Inboard motors are easier when it comes to navigation including backing up, which is generally hard for sailboats to do.

Price: $68,596.00

6. 1970 Hinckley Bermuda 40

This 1970 Hinckley Bermuda 40 is a gorgeous two-masted boat painted with a mixture of desert sand and oyster white on the exterior and features a beautiful and well-kept deck.

This boat has previously had all her systems replaced and upgraded and features a 40 horsepower engine that was new in 2014.

This boat features a mahogany interior and sleeps up to 6 people in 2 cabins. You can also find a 3 burner propane stove with oven, fridge and compressor, new countertops and plenty of storage.

This boat is a stunning and highly upgraded “must-see” at a very reasonable price.

Price: $129,500.00

7. 1995 Amel Super Maramu

A newer model of sailboat is the 1995 Amel Super Maramu sailboat. This sailboat has two masts and is very long at 53 feet.

This boat features an aft deck, steps molded right into the hull, well-protected cockpit an many other features. This boat has a large 76 horsepower engine which is more than the average sailboat is equipped with.

Inside, this boat features 2 cabins and 2 heads with showers. There is also plenty of storage, air conditioning , and electric heaters. There is also a nice salon and galley with a refrigerator, dishwasher, chest freezer, microwave oven, 3 burner stove, and other appliances.

This boat is great for multiple days out on the water and is new and updated. Because of the year, this was manufactured and the features, this boat has a larger price tag than the previous models.

Price: $299,990.00

Final Thoughts:

Sailboats are a great way to enjoy a day out at sea. Most sailboat models come with sleeping arrangements and even a kitchen. This makes them ideal for trips that will take more than a day.

Having multiple masts allows you to harness the power of the wind better and can increase your speed and directional capabilities.

There are many great choices when it comes to boats with two masts, but newer models are starting to steer away from double mast designs. This does not mean that you cannot get a good boat with two masts.

Used boats can be great choices when it comes to purchasing a boat. This is even more true with large, yacht boats such as the ones listed above.

Just make sure when you buy a used sailboat you check that everything is intact and in good working order and if it is not, you have allotted space in the budget to fix what is needed.

Your new double-masted sailboat should provide you with plenty of long-lasting memories and adventures out on the water while you connect with the wind and the sea.

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Mast Steps Sailboat: A Guide to Choosing and Installing the Perfect Mast Steps

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 10, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer: Mast steps on a sailboat

Mast steps are devices installed on sailboats to aid in climbing the mast. They consist of small platforms or rungs attached to the mast, allowing sailors to ascend safely for maintenance or rigging purposes. These sturdy steps provide stability and ease of access while working aloft.

1) Introduction to Mast Steps: A Must-Have for Every Sailboat

Introduction to Mast Steps: A Must-Have for Every Sailboat

Sailing is an exhilarating experience that allows individuals to harness the power of the wind and immerse themselves in the wonders of the open water . Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a novice, it’s essential to have the right equipment on board to ensure safety and convenience. One such tool that every sailboat owner should consider investing in is mast steps.

Mast steps, as the name suggests, are secure footholds attached to the mast of a sailboat . They provide sailors with a safe means of climbing up and down the mast, allowing them to perform various tasks such as adjusting sails, inspecting rigging, installing or repairing equipment, and even taking stunning aerial photographs.

But why are mast steps considered a must-have for every sailboat? Let’s dive into their benefits.

1. Accessibility: When navigating through rough waters or adverse weather conditions, it may become necessary for sailors to ascend the mast quickly. Mast steps provide an easily accessible route up the mast without relying on haphazard makeshift solutions or dangerously improvising climbs. Having well-installed mast steps ensures swift and secure access when you need it most.

2. Safety: Safety should always be a top priority while sailing . By having mast steps installed on your boat, you eliminate potential risks associated with climbing masts without proper footholds. With each step firmly anchored to the mast and designed for optimal grip, sailors can confidently ascend even in challenging sea conditions while minimizing accidents or falls.

3. Versatility: Apart from aiding navigation during demanding situations at sea, mast steps offer versatile functionality during regular maintenance activities as well. Whether it’s routine inspections or replacing rigging elements like spreaders or lights, being able to climb up your mast safely makes these tasks significantly more manageable.

4. Efficient Rigging Adjustments: Properly trimmed sails play a crucial role in maximizing speed and improving overall sailing performance. With mast steps, sailors gain the ability to make on-the-go adjustments without having to rely solely on electronic or hydraulic systems. Climb up the mast, analyze sail shape, tension lines, and make necessary tweaks to ensure your sails harness the wind to its fullest potential.

5. Aesthetic Value: Mast steps not only provide practicality but also add a touch of elegance and sophistication to your sailboat. The sight of well-designed and expertly installed mast steps can awe fellow sailors and generate admiration for your attention to detail.

In conclusion, mast steps should be viewed as an investment rather than just another accessory for sailboats. Their numerous advantages in terms of accessibility, safety, versatility, efficiency, and aesthetic value make them a must-have tool for every sailor looking to enhance their sailing experience. So why compromise on convenience and risk safety when you can ascend your mast confidently with secure footholds? Upgrade your sailboat today with mast steps and embrace the full potential of joyful sailing!

2) How to Install Mast Steps on Your Sailboat: A Step-by-Step Guide

Installing mast steps on your sailboat is not only a practical addition but also an essential safety measure. These handy devices allow you to climb up and down the mast with ease, making tasks like changing sails or inspecting rigging much simpler. So, if you’re ready to take on this DIY project and enhance your sailing experience, here’s a step-by-step guide on how to install mast steps.

Step 1: Assess Your Boat and Choose the Right Steps Before diving into the installation process, it’s crucial to assess your boat and determine which type of mast steps will work best for you. There are various options available, including folding steps, ladder-style steps, or even custom-made ones. Consider factors such as the size of your mast, the material of the steps, and your personal preferences. This initial research will ensure you make an informed decision that suits both your boat and your needs.

Step 2: Gather Your Tools To successfully complete this project, gather all the necessary tools beforehand. Typically, you’ll need a drill with different-sized bits (depending on the screw dimensions), a measuring tape or ruler for accurate placement, a wrench or socket set for tightening bolts or screws, some sealant to prevent water ingress around screw holes if required in your specific setup.

Step 3: Determine Step Placement The next step is determining where exactly you want to place your mast steps along the length of your mast. It’s crucial to consider factors such as proper weight distribution and ease of access when deciding on their placement. Keep in mind that each step should be evenly spaced for optimum usability during ascent or descent.

Using a measuring tape or ruler as guidance can help ensure equal spacing between each step while maintaining symmetry visually appealing aesthetic.

Step 4: Prep Your Mast After marking out where each step will go along the mast length using tape or pencil marks in line with measured placements determined in Step 3 – it’s time to prepare the mast. Use a wire brush or a fine-grit sandpaper to clean the surface where each step will be mounted. This ensures excellent adhesion for proper installation.

Step 5: Drill Pilot Holes To ensure secure mounting of your mast steps, it is imperative to drill pilot holes before inserting screws or bolts. Having pilot holes helps prevent splitting the wood and makes screwing in much smoother – especially if your mast is made of wood. Match the size of your pilot hole with that of your chosen screws or bolts – a slightly smaller diameter would suffice.

Step 6: Install the Mast Steps Now comes the exciting part – installing the mast steps! Follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer, specifically focusing on how to attach them securely to your specific mast type. Typically, you’ll insert screws or bolts into each pilot hole and then tighten them carefully using a wrench or socket set. Be cautious not to overtighten as this can damage both the steps themselves and compromise the integrity of your mast .

Step 7: Test and Refine Once all steps have been installed, take some time to test their functionality. Inspect each step closely for any signs of looseness or instability while applying controlled weight pressure during testing period which simulates climbing conditions; resolve any issues promptly by tightening necessary bolts or screws further if required. It’s better to catch any potential problems now rather than dealing with them while out at sea!

And there you have it – a straightforward, step-by-step guide on how to install mast steps on your sailboat! By following these detailed instructions and taking care throughout each stage, you’ll be able to navigate up and down your mast effortlessly, opening up new horizons in terms of maintenance and adjustment options while enhancing both safety aspects and overall convenience during your sailing adventures .

3) Frequently Asked Questions about Mast Steps on Sailboats

Frequently Asked Questions about Mast Steps on Sailboats

Are you curious about mast steps on sailboats? Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or just starting out, understanding mast steps is essential for your safety and convenience while sailing. In this blog post, we’ll tackle some of the most frequently asked questions about mast steps and provide detailed professional, witty, and clever explanations that will leave you with a deeper knowledge and a smile on your face.

1) What are mast steps?

Mast steps are sturdy platforms or rungs attached to the mast of a sailboat . They serve as vertical ladders that allow sailors to climb up and reach different areas of the rigging while aloft. In simple terms, they act as stepping stones to ensure safe access to the top of the boat ‘s mast.

2) Why do sailboats have mast steps?

Sailboats have mast steps for several reasons. Firstly, they make it easier for crew members to perform maintenance tasks, inspections, and repairs on the rigging at heights. Secondly, they provide an efficient way to access the upper parts of the sails for adjustment or reefing when necessary. Lastly (and let’s not forget!), they add an element of adventurousness – who doesn’t enjoy feeling like a fearless pirate climbing their way up towards new horizons?

3) Do all sailboats have mast steps?

No, not all sailboats have pre-installed mast steps. While some yachts come equipped with them from the factory, others rely on alternative methods like bosun’s chairs or ascenders for ascending their masts safely. However, many experienced sailors prefer having fixed/mounted mast steps due to their sturdiness and less reliance on additional equipment.

4) Can I add/remove my own mast steps?

Absolutely! Adding or removing your own mast steps is possible but should be approached with caution if you aren’t an experienced sailor or lack proper knowledge in rigging. It’s crucial to consult with a professional or expert before making any modifications to your sailboat’s mast . The last thing you want is for your mast steps to become a liability rather than an asset.

5) What materials are mast steps made of?

Mast steps can be constructed from various materials such as stainless steel, aluminum, or even high-strength plastics. Each material has its pros and cons, including resistance to rust and corrosion, weight considerations, durability, and overall aesthetic appeal. Whichever material you choose, always prioritize safety and reliability over everything else.

6) Are there different types of mast steps?

Yes! Mast steps come in a variety of designs and styles. Some boats have individual rungs that need to be bolted onto the mast individually, while others feature pre-fabricated platforms that can be easily attached and secured in one go. Additionally, some mast steps are specialized for specific boat models or sizes, so it’s essential to know what works best for your vessel before making any purchases or installations.

Now that we’ve answered some of the burning questions about mast steps on sailboats in a detailed yet witty manner (hopefully tickling your funny bone along the way), you’re armed with newfound knowledge about this crucial aspect of sailing. Remember, whether you’re climbing up towards uncharted territories or fine-tuning your rigging like a pro, having safe and reliable mast steps will set you on the right course towards nautical success!

4) Benefits of Having Mast Steps on Your Sailboat

Title: Enhance Your Sailing Experience with Mast Steps: A Clever and Versatile Addition to Your Sailboat

Introduction: Sailboat owners are always on the lookout for ways to improve their sailing experience; from upgrading equipment to fine-tuning techniques, every small adjustment makes a difference. One remarkable addition that can elevate both the functionality and enjoyment of your sailboat is the installation of mast steps. These nifty structures provide an array of benefits, allowing sailors to easily access various parts of the mast while ensuring safety and convenience. In this article, we delve into the world of mast steps and explore their invaluable advantages.

1) Enhanced Safety for Ascending the Mast: Ascending a towering mast can be a daunting task for any sailor. However, with well-placed mast steps, this once laborious activity becomes significantly safer and more manageable. The presence of sturdy steps not only ensures stability but also provides climbers with secure footholds at regular intervals. By eliminating unpredictable and hazardous gripping points found on traditional masts, mast steps considerably reduce the risk of accidents caused by slippery or unstable surfaces.

2) Simplified Maintenance and Repair Work: Owning a sailboat entails regular maintenance and occasional repairs, particularly regarding rigging or electronic installations mounted high up on the mast. The incorporation of mast steps renders these tasks far more convenient than ever before. Accessing hard-to-reach areas becomes effortless as sailors can now comfortably distribute their weight across each step when carrying out inspections or performing necessary replacements. This increased accessibility saves valuable time and energy while minimizing discomfort during challenging repair work.

3) Efficient Sail Changes: Sailing enthusiasts know all too well that wind conditions can change rapidly on the open waters . Being able to adjust your sails accordingly is crucial for optimal performance and speed control. With strategically positioned mast steps, quickly climbing up towards the headboard to alter your sail trim is no longer an arduous chore but rather an agile maneuver. The more efficiently crew members can engage with sail changes, the greater their sailing proficiency becomes, leading to a smoother and more responsive overall sailing experience.

4) Observing and Photographing Scenic Vistas: Sailors are often privileged to witness breathtaking scenes while on the water: picturesque sunsets, wildlife encounters, or simply breathtaking landscapes. Mast steps provide an excellent vantage point for embracing these visual delights by enabling sailors to climb up the mast safely and snap remarkable photographs or simply soak in the stunning surroundings. By providing a higher and unobstructed viewpoint, mast steps turn your sailboat into a floating observatory and enable you to capture memorable moments that would otherwise be missed.

Conclusion: Investing in mast steps for your sailboat is undoubtedly an astute decision that unlocks both practicality and enjoyment. From improved safety during ascents to simplified maintenance work, efficient sail changes, and offering stunning vistas from atop the mast, there is no shortage of benefits to reap. So why limit yourself when it comes to exploring the full potential of your sailboat ? Embrace this clever addition today and elevate your sailing adventures like never before – all while keeping your witty mind at ease!

5) Choosing the Right Type of Mast Steps for Your Sailboat

When it comes to sailing, having the right equipment can make all the difference in your experience on the water. One crucial aspect that often goes overlooked is choosing the right type of mast steps for your sailboat. Mast steps may seem like a small detail, but they play a significant role in ensuring the safety and convenience of accessing different areas of your boat’s mast .

So, what exactly are mast steps? In simple terms, they are metal or wooden installations attached to the mast of a sailboat that provide a series of steps or rungs, allowing sailors to climb up and down easily. These steps allow sailors to access various parts of their boat ‘s rigging for maintenance and repairs while at sea.

The first factor you need to consider when selecting mast steps is the material used in their construction. You’ll typically find mast steps made from either stainless steel or aluminum. Both materials offer their own unique advantages. Stainless steel is incredibly durable and resistant to corrosion, making it suitable for long-term use. On the other hand, aluminum is lighter and more cost-effective while still providing adequate strength.

Next, you’ll want to consider whether you prefer folding or fixed mast steps. Folding steps are hinged at one end, allowing them to be folded up against the mast when not in use. This feature not only improves aerodynamics but also prevents accidental injury by reducing snagging hazards while moving around on deck. Fixed mast steps, on the other hand, remain stationary and securely attached at all times.

Another key consideration is step design and spacing. The design should be ergonomic and comfortable for climbing without causing strain or discomfort over extended periods. A common step design includes squared off edges with non-slip grooves or grip pads for enhanced safety during wet conditions – after all, nobody wants slippery steps! Additionally, focus on finding an appropriate space between each step that allows for easy foot placement while accommodating different shoe sizes.

Aside from functionality considerations, it’s worth noting that mast steps can also enhance the aesthetics of your sailboat. Many sailors consider their boats to be a reflection of their personality, and having well-designed mast steps can contribute to an overall sleek and polished appearance. Some manufacturers offer customizable options, giving you the opportunity to showcase your unique style on your vessel.

When choosing mast steps for your sailboat, it is essential to prioritize safety and convenience without disregarding aesthetics. Ensure the material is durable and corrosion-resistant, select a folding or fixed design that suits your needs, and opt for a step layout that provides comfort during climbing. By carefully evaluating these factors, you’ll find yourself with the perfect set of mast steps that meet your sailing requirements while adding a touch of elegance to your boat.

In conclusion, selecting the right type of mast steps for your sailboat is crucial for maintaining safety, efficiency, and a visually appealing aesthetic. Consider materials such as stainless steel or aluminum based on durability and cost-effectiveness. Evaluate whether folding or fixed steps would better suit your sailing needs. Focus on ergonomic design and appropriate spacing to ensure comfortable foot placement during climbs. Remember that personalized customization options are available if you desire additional style elements on your boat. So next time you’re gearing up for an adventure on the open water, take a moment to appreciate the often-underestimated value of properly selected mast steps!

6) Tips and Tricks for Maintaining and Using Mast Steps Safely

In the exhilarating world of sailing, safely navigating through various tasks and maneuvers is of utmost importance. One crucial aspect that often gets overlooked but plays a critical role in maintaining a sailboat is mast steps. These handy little devices are not only essential for scaling the heights of your boat ‘s mast effortlessly, but they also serve as platforms to perform maintenance tasks efficiently. Whether you are a seasoned sailor or a novice just getting acquainted with sailing, we have gathered some expert tips and tricks to help you maintain and use mast steps safely.

1) Regular Inspection:

Like any other component on your boat, mast steps require regular inspections to ensure their functionality and structural integrity. Before each voyage, take the time to closely examine the condition of all your mast steps. Look out for signs of corrosion, loose or damaged fasteners, cracks, or any other visible damages that might compromise their safety. By detecting potential issues early on, you can prevent accidents from occurring while ascending or descending from your mast.

2) Corrosion Prevention:

As sailors well know, exposure to saltwater can accelerate corrosion on metal surfaces. To keep your mast steps in top-notch condition, it is vital to implement preventive measures against corrosion. Applying an anti-corrosive coating like zinc chromate paint serves as an effective barrier against saltwater-induced damage. Additionally, regularly rinsing off salt residue from your mast steps with fresh water after each sailing trip helps prolong their lifespan.

3) Lubrication and Tightening:

Over time, due to constant exposure to harsh environmental elements such as wind and waves, screws or bolts securing the mast steps may loosen up. To ensure safe usage and stability while climbing up the mast, it is imperative to periodically inspect and tighten these fasteners using appropriate tools. Additionally, consider applying a small amount of silicone lubricant to pivot points or hinges within your mast step system for smooth operation.

4) Consider Non-Slip Enhancements:

As you ascend or descend from the mast, the journey can become hazardous if your footing is compromised. Adding non-slip enhancements to your mast steps significantly decreases the chances of slips and falls, thus ensuring your safety. Non-slip adhesive tapes or rubberized coatings are popular options that improve traction on mast steps.

5) Proper Climbing Technique:

Maintaining proper climbing technique is essential for avoiding accidents when using mast steps. Always ensure both of your hands are free while climbing, as holding tools or equipment increases the likelihood of losing grip and falling. It is also crucial to wear a snug-fitting harness to maintain stability and enhance safety throughout the process.

6) Do Not Overload:

While mast steps are designed to support sailors during maintenance tasks, it is crucial not to overload them with excessive weight or pressure. Mast steps have their limits, and exceeding these limits can result in damage and compromised safety. Be mindful of the maximum load specifications provided by the manufacturer and distribute your weight evenly across multiple steps when necessary.

By following these tips and tricks diligently, you can guarantee a safe and hassle-free experience when maintaining or ascending your boat’s mast using mast steps. Remember, prioritizing safety ensures that you can enjoy sailing adventures with peace of mind while taking full advantage of this invaluable accessory. Happy sailing!

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Did Bayesian superyacht’s 237ft mast cause it to sink?

Bayesian’s 237ft metal mast may have played a part in the sinking of the superyacht off the coast of Sicily , experts have suggested.

The yacht, named after the mathematical theory Mike Lynch used to make his millions in the tech industry, foundered in the small hours of Monday morning.

Key among potential reasons for the loss of the vessel will be its most striking feature – the aluminium mast.

Four British personnel from the Marine Accident Investigation Branch are on their way to Palermo to carry out a preliminary assessment.

There are also theories that hot overnight temperatures of 27C (80C) could have prompted passengers to leave portholes and windows open – hastening the sinking when the high winds hit.

Launched in 2008 by Perini Navi, Bayesian is one of the 50 largest sailing yachts in the world and her mammoth mast supported a total sail area of almost 32,000 sq ft.

Bayesian had the tallest aluminium mast in the world when it first took to the seas under her former name Salute. The record was overtaken last year when Jeff Bezos, the Amazon billionaire launched his yacht, Koru.

Koru’s masts stretch to 278ft tall according to Boat International magazine.

Tom Sharpe, a former Royal Navy commander and warship captain, said initial reports from survivors and witnesses suggested “that the weather was sufficiently violent to cause her to capsize at anchor”.

Weather reports from Palermo airport, 12 miles west of the yacht, suggest that at about 4am, winds switched from a gentle south-westerly breeze to gusts of 40mph, with temperatures dropping.

Local newspapers have described the weather as a tornado and a waterspout, which is a tornado above water.

The pressure of high winds on the mast could have helped tip the boat over in rough seas, experts have suggested.

Mr Sharpe said capsizing seemed “unlikely” to him given the Bayesian’s size “and that boats like that are designed to survive poor weather – unless something failed at the same time like a valve that let water in and made the whole boat unstable”.

He said it was more likely that the Bayesian had “dragged anchor”. Anchors are designed to lodge on rocks on the seabed, but if the seabed is too soft, or weather is so bad that the anchor is dislodged, then a boat can drag its anchor and drift.

If a boat drifts into an obstruction such as a rock or another boat, this can damage the boat by tearing a hole in its side leading to sinking, Mr Sharpe suggested.

The sea bed off Porticello, the Silician harbour nearest to where Bayesian was moored for the night, consists of a mixture of rocky and muddy areas, according to nautical charts reviewed by The Telegraph.

This means the yacht could have dragged anchor if it had been lowered into a soft, muddy patch of seabed.

A captain of another boat anchored nearby said his vessel was hit by abnormally strong winds on Monday morning.

Click here to view this content.

Karsten Borner said the Sir Robert BP was battered by strong gusts in the early hours of the morning but he managed to stabilise the vessel while anchored by using the engine.

He said as they were doing this, they noticed the Bayesian nearby and manoeuvred to avoid hitting it.

“We managed to keep the ship in position, and after the storm was over, we noticed that the ship behind us was gone,” said Capt Borner.

Mr Sharpe said: “From a seamanship point of view, the other boat (Sir Robert BP) coming up on her main engines and using those to keep position around [her own] anchor is what you should do. Yacht anchors are often not that robust and that is the best way to avoid putting too much strain on it and/or dragging.”

An alternative theory is that the weight of the mast led the Bayesian to capsize.

A yacht industry source told The Times that the vessel sank after the weight of her mast took the hull beyond its “down-flooding angle” – the point at which a boat cannot right itself after swinging at a steep angle – meaning water rushed over the sides into the interior.

“The wind toppled the mast, which fell over the side, causing the boat to heel over and take on water, capsize and sink very quickly,” the source said.

This can occur whether the mast snapped off or not.

Sam Jefferson, editor of Sailing Today, told The Telegraph: “She has a very tall, aluminium mast – I believe it is the second tallest aluminium mast in the world – and that would not have helped.

“Many yachts with big masts have carbon masts instead of aluminium as these save on weight and improve stability and performance.

“Stability was obviously the problem in the extremely strong winds she was experiencing and I’d assume the boat was pinned on its side and could not right before it filled up with water.”

Another superyacht expert who asked not to be named told The Telegraph that the mast could have pulled the Bayesian over into capsizing, although he expressed some scepticism, saying sailing yachts are designed to prevent that from happening.

He said the anchor-dragging theory was also a plausible explanation for why the Bayesian sank.

Typically, crews try to anchor in safe spots that are sheltered away from the wind, they said.

The Bayesian was moored just off Porticello, a few miles east of Palermo. Prevailing winds from the north-east may have robbed the vessel of the shelter offered by the Sicilian coast, which lay to the west.

Dr Lynch was reportedly aboard the vessel. His wife, Angela Bacares, is among those rescued but six others, including four Britons, are still missing.

One person, reportedly the yacht’s chef, died in the incident and his body was recovered by rescuers.

The Bayesian’s last refit was in 2020.

The vessel was listed for rent for up to €195,000 (£166,000) a week, according to online charter websites.

The interior featured six cabins – one master, three doubles and two twin rooms – for up to a dozen guests, with the crew occupying separate quarters.

Fitted out in a Japanese style, the interior was styled by the Remi Tessler design house.

Under her former name Salute, the yacht won the Best Exterior prize at the World Superyacht Awards in 2009, and the Best Interior at the International Superyacht Society Awards in 2008.

A coastguard statement issued on Monday morning said the missing passengers were of “British, American and Canadian nationality”.

Camper & Nicholsons, managers of the Bayesian, confirmed the vessel sank at about 4.30am following “severe weather”.

The Italian Coast Guard is leading search and rescue operations, and said on Monday it had safely recovered 15 individuals.

Broaden your horizons with award-winning British journalism. Try The Telegraph free for 3 months with unlimited access to our award-winning website, exclusive app, money-saving offers and more.

Bodies of Autonomy founder Mike Lynch and his daughter recovered from sunken Bayesian yacht

Mike Lynch, the U.K. investor and founder of IT company Autonomy, has been identified as one of two bodies recovered from the Bayesian, the yacht that sunk off the coast of Sicily early Monday, according to several reports coming out of the country that cite the chief of Civil Protection, Salvo Cocina. The boat, registered to Lynch's wife, Angela Bacares, quickly capsized in the early hours of Monday after it was struck by a tornado-like water column. In a tragic coincidence, Chamberlain was hit by a car last Saturday and died of his wounds earlier this week.

Mike Lynch, recently acquitted in HP-Autonomy fraud case, is missing after yacht capsized off Sicily (updated)

Mike Lynch, the investor and high-profile founder of U.K. tech firm Autonomy, has been declared missing at sea after the yacht he was on, the Bayesian, capsized in a storm off the coast of Sicily early Monday morning. Lynch's wife, Angela Bacares, is one of the 15 who have been rescued. The news is a dramatic, tragic development for one of the more colorful, and sometimes controversial, figures in technology out of the U.K.

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Mast Steps
Spars, Rigging, and Hardware for Sailboats. Rig-Rite, Inc. Phone: (001) 401-739-1140 -- FAX: (001) 401-739-1149 www.RigRite.com Ordering/Questions: Mast Steps: Mast Steps: Mast Steps, or Mast Feet, are used on Deck or Keel to secure the base of the Mast. Mast Steps are usually bolted through the Deck, or into the Keel. ... Mast Step Base Plate ...
Sailboat Mast Guide: Types, Maintenance, and Upgrades
To understand mast maintenance better, it's essential to know the various components of a sailboat mast. The key parts include the masthead, spreaders, shrouds, and halyard sheaves. ... these mast maintenance tips will help you get started on the right foot. Essential Care for First-Time Sailboat Owners. Establish a regular maintenance schedule.
Deck Stepped vs Keel Stepped Mast
This distinction refers to the location of the mast step, or where the base of the mast is located. With Keel Stepped, the mast stands on the keel at the bottom of the hull, while Deck Stepped means that the mast stands on the top of the deck. Deck Stepped. The most obvious difference between the two from a livability standpoint is the presence ...
Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)
The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat. The Sails. I think this segment speaks mostly for itself.
Mast Stepped: A Comprehensive Guide to Properly Installing and
Stepping the mast on a sailboat is a critical procedure that sets the foundation for successful and safe sailing adventures. A well-adjusted mast brings stability, facilitates efficient control, and allows your sails to harness the power of the wind, propelling you towards new horizons. So, next time you embark on an aquatic journey, appreciate ...
How Tall Are Sailboat Masts? 9 Examples
Her mainsail's luff length is 28.92 feet, and the foot is 12.45 feet; she is a high-aspect-ratio boat. The Islander 24 has a mast height of 28.82, so it is 2 and 1/2 feet shorter than our Melges. The main's luff length is 25.75 feet, and the foot is 11.52, for a low aspect ratio and much smaller main. The Islander 24 weighs 4,200 pounds ...
Average Sailboat Mast Height
The answer varies on rig type, boat size, and design attributes. Small sailboats, under 20 feet in length, rarely have masts taller than 20 ft or shorter than 8 ft. Sailboats between 20 and 30 feet have masts up to 30 feet tall, and large 40+ foot sailboats often have masts that exceed 50 feet in height. In this article, we'll cover the average ...
Parts Of a Sail Explained (Illustrated Beginners Guide)
A sail, which is a large piece of fabric that is attached to a long pole called the mast, uses the wind to pull a sailboat across the water. It has various parts, such as the head, tack, clew, luff, leech, foot, mainsail, jib, and batten. These components determine the shape and efficiency of the sail.
Sailboat Mast: A Comprehensive Guide to Understanding and Maintaining
A sailboat mast is a vertical pole or spar that supports the sails of a sailboat. It provides structural stability and allows for adjustment of the sail position to effectively harness wind power. Typically made of aluminum or carbon fiber, mast design varies based on boat size, sailing conditions, and intended use.
Sailboat Masts Explained: From Basics to Repairs
Sailboat Masts: Engineered for agility, they prioritize speed, wind optimization, and quick adjustments. Maintenance, Repairs, and the Importance of Both. Seawater, winds, and regular wear and tear can take their toll on your mast. Routine Maintenance: Regular checks for signs of corrosion, wear, or structural issues can prolong your mast's life.
Raising the Mast of a Small Sailboat with The Resourceful Sailor
The moment to initiate lifting the mast is 980 foot pounds. (28'x half the mast length x70 pounds - assume equal weight distribution per foot.). That is to say, if the mast is on the ground and you lift one end, it will take 35 pounds force through a distance of 28 feet (=980 foot pounds of moment acting on the mast to lift one end off of ...
Mast Steps: No Perfect Design
To attach these steps, we used a stock rivet gun that cost about $30. If you use stainless rivets or aluminum rivets larger than 3/16″, youll need a compound-action gun thatll set you back a hundred and a half, unless you can rent or borrow one. Aluminum rivets go for 2 to 8. Stainless rivets cost 8 to 22.
Replacing Your Rigging
Keep your sailboat's mast securely in place by carefully inspecting all of your spar's components and replacing parts before you have a breakdown. ... For an average 40-foot boat, Cockerill estimates about $100 per foot to re-rig with wire rigging ($4,000), as well as the round-trip cost to haul and launch the boat and unstep and step the ...
Sailboat Masts: A Comprehensive Guide to Choosing the Perfect Mast
Short answer sailboat masts: Sailboat masts are vertical structures that support the sails on a sailboat. Typically made of aluminum, wood, or carbon fiber, masts vary in length and design depending on the type and size of the boat. They play a crucial role in providing stability and transferring wind energy to propel the sailboat
How Much Does a Sailboat Mast Replacement Cost?
Replacing a mast costs between $15,000 - $30,000 for an average sailboat. Out of that, $4,000 - $6,000 is the cost of labor. The mast itself costs between $10,000 - $25,000. The total cost of a sailboat mast replacement raises exponentially as you go up in boat size. But since there are many variables in this, let's have a look at it in more ...
How to Step a Mast Single-Handed With or Without Using the Boom as a
Walk the mast aft and drop the mast foot into the mast step on top of the deck, keeping the mast in center line of boat, insert the pivot bolt and locking nut. One crew member should pull on a line tied securely to the forestay while another pushes up on the mast and walks from the cockpit forward. With the mast erect, attach the forestay and ...
Mast (sailing)
Mast (sailing) The mast of a sailing vessel is a tall spar, or arrangement of spars, erected more or less vertically on the centre-line of a ship or boat. Its purposes include carrying sails, spars, and derricks, giving necessary height to a navigation light, look-out position, signal yard, control position, radio aerial or signal lamp. [ 1]
Rig-Rite Inc.
Since 1961, RIG-RITE has engineered, manufactured and distributed Spars, Rigging and Hardware Systems for Sailboats. RIG-RITE stocks the largest variety of related Systems and Hardware available anywhere, Specializing in original replacement parts for Systems on yachts built the world over. Spars - Masts, Booms, Spreaders, Spinnaker Poles ...
SAIL SYSTEMS Universal Mast Boot
Universal Mast Boot. Model # P002_065_007_509 Mfg # 91400. $14.91. Additional 50% off savings is reflected in final price above. Select a Product. Mast boot fits masts with circumferences of 17-1/2" and larger with corresponding mast collars of up to 31" Mast boot fits masts with circumferences of 23" and larger with corresponding mast collars ...
Bayesian yacht: What we know about the luxury boat sank by a ...
What do we know about the boat? Built in 2008, the 56-meter (184-foot) yacht was manufactured by Italian company Perini Navi, Reuters reported. ... The yacht's mast stood 72.27 meters (237 feet ...
Mike Lynch's Sunken Superyacht Is Largely Intact, Italian ...
The Bayesian had a nearly 240-foot mast and was once the tallest sailboat, though it was dwarfed by Jeff Bezos' new yacht. The Wall Street Journal. Mike Lynch's Sunken Superyacht Is Largely ...
Dwyer Mast & Rigging
Quality Sailboat Masts, Booms, Hardware and Rigging Since 1963. Dwyer Mast & Rigging manufactures high-quality sailboat masts, booms, hardware, and rigging. Originally founded in 1963 as Dwyer Aluminum Mast Company, the legacy continues as an OEM supplier by taking advantage of improved manufacturing methods to offer a wide range of products ...
Sailboat Mast Steps & Hardware
Let us help. 206-632-4462. Email. Strengthen your mast with top-quality sailboat mast parts from Fisheries Supply! Find mast steps, mast hardware, mast tangs, & more for safe & secure sailing.
7 Popular Sailboats with Two Masts (With Pictures & Prices)
1. 1976 Westerly Center Cockpit Ketch. This 1976 Westerly Center Cockpit Ketch is a small 36-foot long sailboat with two masts. This is a solidly built cruising vessel that features a center cockpit ketch layout. This boat has a small 38 horsepower engine perfectly fit to navigate its smaller size.
Mike Lynch: Body of British tech entrepreneur recovered from yacht
The British-flagged vessel, with 22 passengers and crew members on board, rapidly sank after its mast, one of the world's tallest, broke in half during a violent storm.
Bayesian yacht: Fifth body found in search for those missing from ...
The British-flagged vessel sank early Monday - killing at least one of 22 people on board - after its mast, one of the world's tallest, broke in half during a violent storm.
Mast Steps Sailboat: A Guide to Choosing and Installing the Perfect
Short answer: Mast steps on a sailboat Mast steps are devices installed on sailboats to aid in climbing the mast. They consist of small platforms or rungs attached to the mast, allowing sailors to ascend safely for maintenance or rigging purposes. These sturdy steps provide stability and ease of access while working aloft. 1) Introduction
Mike Lynch's Super Yacht Bayesian Sunk After Its Towering Mast Snapped
Bayesian sailboat had a nearly 240-foot mast and was once the tallest, though it was dwarfed by Jeff Bezos' new yacht. By . Costas Paris. Aug. 21, 2024 10:27 am ET. Share. Resize.
Did Bayesian superyacht's 237ft mast cause it to sink?
Bayesian's 237ft metal mast may have played a part in the sinking of the superyacht off the coast of Sicily, experts have suggested.. The yacht, named after the mathematical theory Mike Lynch used to make his millions in the tech industry, foundered in the small hours of Monday morning.. Key among potential reasons for the loss of the vessel will be its most striking feature - the ...
Bayesian yacht sinking: What factors might have caused boat to sink
When the wind pushes the boat onto its side, the weight of the keel counteracts the lean and pushes the boat back level. ... According to Perini's website Bayesian has a 75m (246ft) mast which it ...