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On board Ribelle with owners Paola and Salvatore Trifirò

In planning their 12th yacht, Ribelle, sea lovers Paola and Salvatore Trifirò knew what they wanted – down to the finest detail

Paola Trifirò does everything with love, passion and joy. You get the sense she wakes up smiling, barely able to contain her enthusiasm for a new day. “I live in Milan,” she says, “and we also have homes in Paris, Portofino and Cap d’Antibes. And there’s also Ribelle , of course, my home in motion. I live a life of privilege and I have many splendid things, but I remember to always ask myself why I have this lovely life.”

In her Milan apartment she lives surrounded by light, colour and the contrast that comes with living in an ultra-modern apartment in a 17th century building. Contrast with her busy everyday life is one of her favourite things about time spent aboard Ribelle , a 32.6 metre Malcolm McKeon design built by the Dutch yard Vitters in carbon composite. “ Ribelle offers the privilege of living in silence and nature, surrounded by the best of the things I love,” she says. “Boats are dreams; sailing this boat is living a dream.”

Paola’s husband, Salvatore, introduced her to sailing and they have owned more than a dozen boats, sailing the world. “Every stage of our lives has had a boat in it, and in recent years we started building our own,” says Paola. The Trifiròs began with a seven metre Calife Jouët and moved all the way up to the 50 metre Zefira before they decided to go smaller. “And slimmer and faster,” adds Paola. At this point Salvatore joins the conversation.

“Years ago we had a 32 metre Jongert with a steel hull and I decided to race against other yachts like it. We came in first and I thought this is pretty fun,” he says with a twinkle in his blue eyes. “Then we participated in another regatta against lighter and faster yachts and came in last.” The face that he pulls at this point says it all. “I have spent a lifetime at the top, from school all the way through my professional life as a lawyer. The only yacht that represents me is one that can come first. Maybe I do my best and don’t win, but at least if I lose, I did my duty and tried not to.”

The Trifiròs have since become fixtures on the regatta circuit, and if occasionally Salvatore isn’t first across the finish line, he’s always number one on the floor at the owners’ dinner-dance. While being competitive is important for Salvatore – the yacht won her class at the Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup in her first season – being generous is equally important to Paola. In Ribelle they have found the yacht that lets both of them shine. “For me, the privilege of being aboard Ribelle is the silence,” says Paola.

“I really don’t understand why people would sail to some beautiful spot then run off their boat to go to some noisy restaurant. The real enjoyment is getting away from it all and enjoying a meal in a quiet bay under the stars. That’s living like kings.” In fact, she prefers only to go ashore to shop for fresh local fish and ingredients. Paola worked closely with McKeon and Rémi Tessier , who has now done the interiors of two Trifirò yachts. “Taste is taste, but if you want the boat of your dreams, you have to have clear ideas,” she says. “You can’t just let your architect do what he or she wants to do. You must insist on having what you prefer because real luxury is not a brand, it’s being surrounded by all the things you love.”

What Paola loves is cooking, so designing the galley was very important. “There are three sources of energy that drive a sailing boat,” she says. "One is the wind, another is the engine. The third is food. Even on our first boat, where we had one pot, one plate and one glass, I would always make a hot meal. I insisted on real tableware and real food because these are the things that give me satisfaction.

“People say I’m a fantastic cook,” she says, laughing and shaking her flaming red hair. “That may or may not be true, but for sure it’s my art and a passion that I have followed throughout my life. I want to tell the world that even a fast boat like Ribelle can have a gourmet soul. All of my kitchen machines stay on board, even during regattas,” she says with emphasis. “Well, maybe not all of them.” She smiles. “The meat slicer stays on the dock.”

When Paola proposed an island in the galley, even McKeon wasn’t sure it could be done. “I told him I knew what I was doing and I designed it. And I want to tell anyone who is building a custom yacht: don’t ask; know what you want and explain it. Express your will. In my case it was my galley, I knew what I wanted there. Ribelle is my style, my life and my special place for living well.” Of course, Ribelle’s Singaporean-born chef benefits from the insistence on a great galley as well.

When downsizing from their previous 50 metre, what did Paola leave behind? “Nothing really,” she answers. “Sure, we had some art from Zefira that we don’t have on Ribelle , but this yacht is a work of art unto itself.” Knowing what you want can sometimes be a touchy subject when it comes to guests, but Paola has a solution for that, too. “We are both lawyers, but we don’t invite business contacts, only friends who are happy to live the boating life we enjoy. Over the years we have eliminated the ones who want to run ashore to see and be seen. We have a core group of four or five couples who really share our love for living aboard. Or maybe they don’t,” she jokes. “I can never really be sure if they come for the boat or for the food, because at breakfast they are already asking me what we’ll have for lunch.”

What does Paola pack for a yachting trip? “I live comfortably. One thing that drives me crazy are those tiny drawers only a couple of inches high that so many people do on yachts. I told Rémi to make our drawers look small with fake fronts, but be large inside. That way I can keep my T-shirts in one, my ballerina flats in another. Oh, and my shawls in another – I have some beautiful shawls.” So, good friends, good food, a T-shirt and you’re off? “Yes, because a boat is a place for getting your energy back, for enjoying yourself. You have to think about what you bring aboard and chose only the things that you love the best. Bring things that make you feel good. Life is so short, we really have to enjoy the small big joys that are sun, fresh air, wind and good food. Surround yourself with what you truly love because you have to be hospitable, even towards yourself.”

Paola’s tips for building a boat

• You must first have clear ideas. Even the best designers can’t reach a perfect result without clear indications of the spirit and the goal in the owners’ hearts

• Dare to have what you really want. You can’t let the shipyard tell you that something can’t be done

• You’ll only be living your dream if your style comes out on your boat

• To totally enjoy nature and to relax, you must have as much natural light as possible in the interior

• If you plan your spaces well and only bring things that you truly love aboard, you’ll live very well

• Pay attention to the layout. Only an owner can know personal habits and necessities. Some things can’t be changed later without destroying the boat

Paola’s onboard essentials

Ribelle’s  galley is designed around kitchen machines that include a blast chiller for proper food conservation and an instant water boiler for a quick plate of pasta. Paola spotted Ribelle’s induction cooker with a built-in down-draft exhaust vent at a recent Salone del Mobile. “Since I don’t have an overhead hood, I can have a proper window in the galley,” she says.She is possessive of her personal knife set and especially proud of her cup-warmer drawer. “I was talking with the owner of a large explorer yacht and mentioned my cup-warmer. He said, ‘Let’s trade boats, I’ll sail and you can motor around Polynesia.’ Everyone looked at us in amazement, but he said, ‘I could entrust much more than my yacht to a woman who is attentive enough to have a cup-warmer drawer!’ “When we eat on deck at the tables under the boom, I use simple placemats and Puiforcat dishes with a nautical theme,” she says. “For eating inside, I get a bit more elaborate. I have beautiful linen tablecloths and ultra-thin dishes by Society Limonta and I use napkin rings from my collection. I set out black and blue candles and use stones or something from outdoors as a centrepiece to remind us to be modest and see nature. The copper in Ribelle’s saloon gleams like gold at night and reflects the stars that shine through the glass.”

First published in the October 2018 issue of BOAT International.

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“Silence is the perfectest herald of joy: I were but little happy, if I could say how much”

William Shakespeare

“Silence is all we dread. There’s Ransom in a Voice. But Silence is Infinity”

Emily Dickinson

Zefira wins at ShowBoats Design Awards 2011

Winner: Exterior Design & Styling

Winner:  Crew & Service Areas

Zefira wins at World Superyacht Awards 2011

Winner: Sailing Yacht of the Year

Winner: Best Sailing Yacht 45m+

Zefira – The World’s Best

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Super yacht in Fairhaven Shipyard for maintenance

Seen from the New Bedford side of the river, the single mast of the 164-foot super-sized sailboat Zefira towers above all other boats at the Fairhaven Shipyard and even makes the town's commercial wind turbines appear small.

"It's just here for some routine maintenance," Kevin McLaughlin, one of the shipyard's owners, said Monday as his workers inspected the underwater surface of the aluminum hull.

Built in New Zealand by Fitzroy Yachts, the luxurious vessel was launched in 2010 and is registered in Valletta, Malta.

The accommodation plan includes room for 10 in the owner's party and up to eight crew members.

McLaughlin declined to identify Zefira's owner. However, there is plenty of other information on this spectacular yacht available on the Internet. Photos of the yacht's interior feature a level of opulence few people ever experience.

The super yacht took first place in the sailing category, at the 2011 Superyacht of the Year awards held in London, according to the Boat International website, which describes the event as the Oscars of the sailing world. Prior to its arrival in local waters, Zefira was cruising in the South Pacific. For more information, visit the yacht's own website syzefira.com.

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ZEFIRA Interior & Exterior Photos

49.69m  /  163' | fitzroy | 2010.

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Visiting Russia - Makhachkala, Capital of Dagestan

By Koryo Tours

Makhachkala, Capital of Dagestan

Visiting Russia – Makhachkala

Yoshkar-ola | cheboksary  |  astrakhan | elista | stalingrad (volograd)  | abakan  |  nalchik  | validkavkaz  | grozny.

Makhachkala is the capital city of the Republic of Dagestan, and the largest city in this part of the North Caucasus with around 600,000 people calling the city home.

While Dagestan has a bit of a bad reputation for extremism (justifiably, given that there have been various serious issues over the last couple of decades or so) Makhachkala itself is a very diverse and generally tolerant city with a fascinating combination of Russian influence and the flavours of the Caucasus and all its peoples in general. The ethnic mix here is particularly interesting, the largest group would be Avars who make up around a quarter of the people of Makhachkala.  – Avars are a North Caucasian people, as are Kumyks (2nd in terms of population), Darghins (3rd), Lezgins (4th), Laks (5th), Tabasarans (7th) and so on.

Compared to neighbouring Chechnya which has a high degree of ethnic homogeneity this is very notable. It makes for a far more diverse urban population than most would expect, also notable that identifying as a ‘Dagestani’ is not really a thing at all! Makhachkala is on the Caspian Sea, the west coast, it is one of the largest cities on this inland sea (with Baku, Azerbaijan being by far the most prominent and biggest) and has a very Mediterranean vibe when at the seaside. Visiting this part of the city is an absolute must, especially on a sunny day! Founded initially as a Russian fort in the mid 19th Century Makhachkala has gone by many names (both Russian and native). When known as Petrovsk it was briefly used as an air base by the occupying Royal Air Force (of the UK) during the Russian Civil War After the consolidation of victory of the Red forces the name was settled on Makhachkala, after the local revolutionary hero Magomed-Ali ‘Makhach’ Dakhadaev. Makhachkala is a somewhat chaotic city, in great contrast to the order and polish of the rebuilt centre of Grozny, many visitors who have been to Russia though will notice the familiar cracked sidewalks, random abandoned buildings, constant renovation, demolition, and building of somewhat unattractive malls and retail outlets.

It is largely unplanned, heavy with traffic, and generally bustling. The Central area near the beach is the most pleasant with some surviving examples of 19th and early 20th Century architecture, as well as some high-Soviet buildings still standing. The outskirts tent towards the utilitarian late-Soviet and 21st Century ‘Chinese-Style’ apartment buildings A note on drinking – Dagestan is not a dry republic, but still, the majority of people in Makhachkala and the republic, in general, do not touch alcohol. Being majority Muslim here does mean that beer houses and bars have to operate in a certain way. What most of them do is set themselves up as ‘fish bars’ where you can buy a wide range of smoked fish (they are delicious, if a little pungent sometimes) and also get a beer to go with your snack, including locally brewed ones.

Customers usually then sit in a booth and a curtain is drawn around them to protect their modesty. It does have the result of projecting shame onto the furtive drinker, whether you generally feel shame while having a beer or not. Quite an experience and something to be tried for sure! Do not take photos of people drinking alcohol - that's considered a bit rude.

Arriving/Departing

Uytash Airport (MCX) lies to the South of Makhachkala and serves mostly domestic destinations in Russia as well as the occasional flight to Dubai and various charter flights to Jeddah and Medina during Hajj season.

The airport is named for a fighter ace who was a Crimean Tatar, which makes it an odd choice of name for the eastern end of the North Caucasus. By rail Makhachkala is connected to the main Russian system so reaching here from Vladikavkaz and even further up into European Russia is also an option. Being a Caspian Sea port should enable access to the neighbouring countries of Iran, Turkmenistan, Azerbaijan, and Kazakhstan but in reality, there is little passengers traffic from here. Worth checking out options on cargo ships though if you’re feeling adventurous! To get to the best city to visit in Dagestan, Derbent, there is a train that takes a leisurely 4 hours riding down the coast of the Caspian Sea.

This is by far the best way to get between the two most significant settlements in Dagestan.

Makhachkala Grand Mosque – one of the biggest in Russia this is the main attraction in the city. It is a Sunni Mosque and people here do take their religion seriously, so the dress code is enforced, women cannot go into the men’s section (nor vice versa) and casual visitors may get some looks from worshippers if they show up during prayer time.

This is very much a functional house of worship rather than something aimed at tourists. Still do go and see it, and check out the I Heart Mosque sign outside (a play on the almost-Omnipresent ‘I Heart Wherever-I-am’ signs you will have seen before.

This is an impressive multi-domed white building, reminiscent of the Istanbul Blue Mosque.

Lenin Square

A large space in the city centre with a towering Lenin Statue and all the main government buildings for the administration of the Republic of Dagestan plus the House of Friendship, local telecom base, Museum of the Republic, and so on. Basically the proper heart of the secular city. The Buildings here are very attractive and the size of the square makes it popular with kids playing, families strolling etc. Don’t miss the very pleasant park to the south of Lenin Square, in summer people often sell antiques here, bargains and curios aplenty!

In summer this is very much an unmissable spot. To many people who know nothing of Dagestan apart from its reputation for Islamic Extremism the idea of a beach full of sunbathers here is a bit of an odd one, but here you can find all manner of people, dressed conservatively, or very un-conservatively mixing and enjoying the sun. The beach is around 1km long and nicely sandy, the sea is cold but most people seem to be sunbathing rather than water bathing. Cafes and sitting areas are set up and it is a very pleasant spot. the buildings around here give off a Mediterranean vibe also. There may be no beer bottles but the range of ice creams for sale is highly impressive!

Makhachkala Bazaar

Inconveniently located uphill to the south of the city the main bazaar is a modern kind of place, in that it is not one of the particularly attractive bazaars that people may imagine. Most things sold are functional or the kind of clothing you can find anywhere, but there are still a few places selling Dagestani carpets and local trinkets.

Worth it for people-watching and as a reason to take a trek across the city (or jump on a public bus or marshrutka, there are loads of them and they are very cheap) to save some effort!

Statues and Monuments

As we have come to expect from Russian cities Makhachkala is full of interesting statues and monuments – two Lenins, a Pushkin (of course), Kirov, Rahul Gazmatov (an Avar poet), the city father Makhach Dakhadayev on a horse, a great monument to Dagestani fighters for Soviet power (outside the House of Friendship). And an excellent monument to Imam Shamil – the hero of Caucasian resistance to Russian imperialism.

Also, there is a Tu-134 monument at the airport.

Koryo Tours Russia Tours

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