bottom paint for racing sailboats

Sailboat Bottom Paint: 10 Best Paints

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

If you leave your boat without protection, it's beyond question that it will start attracting several marine organisms such as slime, algae, mussels, barnacle, and seaweed. This will cover the bottom of your sailboat and may negatively affect your boat's speed and fuel efficiency.

This is exactly why you need to apply the best sailboat bottom paint on your boat.

The freedom that sailing and being off land gives you are immense and almost unmatched.

But do you know that having multiple organisms such as algae, slime, barnacle, seaweed, and mussels grow on your boat can throw everything out on the wind and leave you with a very unreliable boat?

These pesky hangers will put a huge dent in your boat's speed, its movement, fuel efficiency, and overall aesthetic.

That's why you need the best sailboat bottom paint to greatly minimize any damage that might be caused to your boat's hull by marine biological growth.

Also known as antifouling paint, bottom paint is essentially a paint or coating that's specifically designed with elements that prevent various marine organisms such as algae, seaweed, barnacles, slime, and mussels from attaching themselves to your boat's hull or any other part of the boat that's below the waterline.

One of the most important elements of bottom paint is the inclusion of a biocide and copper is the most common. This may, however, depend on the type of boat that you have, how, and where you always use it.

But because there's an ocean of bottom paints out there on the market, choosing the best sailboat bottom paint can be an overwhelming task for most of us.

Fortunately, you can always count on us to make it a lot easier for you. We've gone through many bottom paints and we do not doubt that we've selected the most effective, reliable, and best sailboat bottom paint.

Our unbiased selections will not only match your needs and budget but will be available in a variety of colors to complement and augment your boat's visual appeal.

Table of contents

What to Consider when Purchasing Sailboat Bottom Paint

If you're on the market for the best sailboat bottom paint, it's crucial to go for top quality; something that will offer efficiency, top speed, and excellent performance for your sailboat. With that in mind, here are a few things to consider before spending your hard-earned money on bottom paint.

Your Sailing Location

Where are you planning to sail? Is it on a freshwater body or in a saltwater location? This is essential in helping you determine whether to go for a bottom paint that's meant for saltwater, freshwater, or both. It's generally recommended that you go for a bottom paint that will serve you perfectly well in both freshwater and saltwater. This gives you the versatility of sailing anywhere without worrying about marine organisms damaging your boat's hull.

Launch Time and Recoat Time

It's important to keep in mind that bottom paint products have specific launch time limits. The idea here is to ensure that you launch it within the required timeframe and ensure that recoating is done as required. You should, therefore, choose a bottom paint that offers a lengthy launch and recoat time while offering durable protection for your vessel is the right thing to do.

Type of Boat

You should determine whether your boat is made of wood, fiberglass, or aluminum and go for bottom paint that's suitable for that particular surface. Many bottom paints work perfectly with fiberglass but some work great with aluminum or wooden surfaces.

The Fouling Condition

Having a deeper idea of the type of fouling that you might deal with can be crucial when buying the right bottom paint for you. Whether you're dealing with slime, algae, mussel, or any other type of marine organism, knowing the type of fouling you're dealing with will make it a lot easier to pick the best sailboat bottom paint for your vessel.

Best Sailboat Bottom Paint

Rust-oleum marine flat boat bottom antifouling paint.

As one of the most respected brand names in the bottom paint industry, Rust-Oleum is known for producing some of the best sailboat bottom paint and the Marine Flat Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint is one of them. This bottom pain is designed to be suitable for various conditions (both freshwater and saltwater) and is designed with moderate copper that works great if you are environment-conscious.

This bottom paint does an excellent job of offering a protective coating to ensure that your boat is free of all sorts of unwanted marine organisms. You'll love this paint because it is thick and spreads so easily and will not be a problem even if you're a beginner. This bottom paint offers top-notch antifouling properties and is very easy to apply as long as you use a soft brush and mix it carefully. This is a great bottom paint choice that will offer a sleek multi-season finish and ensure that your boat's hull is always awesome and in great condition.

• ‍ Easy and simple to apply
• Great for both freshwater and saltwater
• Offers gentle fouling conditions
• Excellent in antifouling
• Offer a sleek and awesome finish
• ‍ Quite expensive
• Has a very strong smell that can cause headache

Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote Antifouling Paint

This is another great brand that is considered as one of the best bottom paint in the sailing world. Even though it's a bit pricey, it offers great features that will ensure that your boat remains in tip-top shape. It is an excellent option if you're looking for a sailboat bottom paint that brings to the fore a unique dual resin approach.

This is a very reliable bottom paint that will not only prevent your boat's hull from the effect of marine organisms but also prevent premature deterioration. It offers an awesome polishing action and is perfecting if you want to discard unnecessary paint buildup. This bottom paint is also very economical and a small quantity will cover a considerable surface area of your boat's bottom.

This is, without a doubt, a superb buy in terms of its practicality and economical nature. It is excellently formulated to prevent marine organisms from damaging your boat and also to ensure that premature wear and tear doesn't exist in your vocabulary.

• ‍ It's formulated with a unique dual resin approach to prevent premature wear and tear
• It prevents early decline
• It prevents unnecessary paint buildup
• Great for ensuring that your boat is fuel effective
• Great for all conditions (both freshwater and saltwater)
• ‍ It's expensive
• The quantity and size can be misleading

TotalBoat JD Select Bottom Paint

As one of the few bottom paints that's formulated with low Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC), this bottom paint is one of the most cost-effective on this list. With one gallon, you can easily cover about 400 square feet and the application is a breeze since it's even much easier to clean up.

When you purchase this bottom paint, the package will come complete with a pair of latex gloves, a wooden stir stick, an abrasive pad, a metal tray kit, a paint suit, a roller, a painter's tape, and many more. The inclusion of all these accessories makes it a quite cost-effective purchase.

Again, this is one of the most durable bottom paints. Apply it on your boat's hull and you're guaranteed that it will offer excellent protection for the next 18 months. On the downside, this paint is too thick and you'll have to buy an excellent thinner for it to work perfectly.

Nonetheless, this is an ablative bottom paint that is easy to apply and does an excellent job of protecting your boat's bottom for close to two years.

• ‍ Perfect for all conditions
• Easy to apply and clean up
• Can improve your boat's speed and fuel efficiency
• Comes with all accessories required for the paint job
• It's one of the best water-based bottom paint products in the industry
• It contains low VOC
• ‍ You'll need a top-quality thinner for it to work perfectly

Aquaguard Water-based Antifouling Bottom Paint

An excellent choice for both wooden and fiberglass boats, this is the most perfect bottom point for saltwater conditions. This is a water-based bottom paint that's very easy to apply and clean up (using soap and water) and is formulated with an ablative action that makes it superb for preventing any marine organism that may negatively affect your boat.

This is a bottom paint that is EPA-approved and surpasses the set VOC standards. It has an extended shelf life and offers durable protection for your sailboat. It doesn't contain toxic fumes and is great even for novices. Its drying time is also excellent, so you won't wait for far too long to get your boat out there on the water.

• ‍ Excellent for saltwater conditions
• Application and cleaning is very easy
• It's approved by the US EPA
• You don't have to use a primer
• ‍ The color selection is limited
• A bit pricey

Pettit Hydrocoat

This is another water-based bottom paint that offers outstanding ablative properties that will protect your boat from marine organisms throughout the seasons. It offers good value for money and is easy to apply and clean up with just water and soap.

We're talking about a bottom paint product that will protect your boat's hull for months on end. You also do not need a full tank of the paint to complete the job. With just a single gallon, you can be sure to complete an area as big as 430 square feet.

This is also one of the few bottom paints that can perfectly prevent your boat from damage when being trailered, launched, or beached. More importantly, it's not irritating to the nose and eyes because it has low VOC.

• ‍ It will dry in 3 hours
• It's easy to apply and clean up
• It offers multi-season protection
• It's not irritating to the eyes and nose
• It's quite economical
• ‍ May not be the best in antifouling
• You have to apply at least two coats

SEA HAWK PAINTS Aluminum Boat Paint

One of the best aluminum boat paints in the market, this bottom paint is formulated to offer quick-dry corrosion-blocking, high-solid features. This bottom paint is specifically manufactured to be used in aluminum boats and doesn't require the addition of any primer.

While it doesn't have an antifouling feature, it stands out and can be used both below and above the waterline as it is risk-free and free or chromate. It is also formulated to offer a unique dual resin approach and can be used both as paint and a primer at the same time.

This is a great paint for both freshwater and saltwater conditions and can be applied as a primer or topcoat on a fiberglass boat. This is an excellent sailboat boat bottom paint that's worth every coin as it is practical, versatile, and can combat both rusting and lifting.

• ‍ The application and cleanup process is easy
• Great for both freshwater and saltwater conditions
• It doesn't require a primer
• Can be used as primer or topcoat in fiberglass boats
• Can prevent rusting and lifting
• It has quick-dry and anti-corrosion features
• ‍ Can produce deadly fumes

TotalBoat Spartan Boat Bottom Paint

If you've been looking for a practical, reliable, and cost-effecting bottom paint that will offer durable performance and protection, the Spartan Boat Bottom Paint. Perfect for both freshwater and saltwater, it can be perfect for protecting your boat and ensuring that it is fuel-efficient and reliable.

This bottom paint is formulated with advanced copolymer ablative to ensure that it doesn't deteriorate instantly. This is a very dependable bottom paint that will serve you perfectly throughout the year and will ensure that your boat easily defies fouling while reducing unnecessary buildup and sanding on your boat.

This is a very adaptable bottom paint that not only offers great value for money but is very easy to apply. More importantly, it is very durable and will protect your vessel for at least 12 months on any type of water.

• ‍ Great for all types of water
• It offers a very durable protection
• Available in a wide variety of color selection
• Offer a visually appealing abrasion-proof finish
• ‍ The included accessories aren't up to the right quality

To this end, we must put a lot of emphasis on the importance of having the right bottom paint for your boat. In addition to being an antifouling agent, bottom paint will significantly increase the fuel efficiency of your boat and ensure that it performs optimally at all times. Of course, you do not want to diminish your sailing escapades or have your nice and beautiful vessel damaged by marine organisms just because you didn't apply the right sailboat bottom paint. If you're unsure how to proceed, here's how to paint a sailboat.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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The Fastest Boat Bottom Paints: Antifouling for Speed

Whether you're racing your boat or cruising casually, everyone wants to sail faster. Is there a bottom paint that will make your boat sail faster? And is it right for you?

What are The Fastest Boat Bottom Paints? The fastest bottom paints are vinyl or Teflon based hard paints, which can be wet sanded and burnished to a smooth finish .

Maintaining a fast, racing finish with these paints requires more maintenance than a hard copolymer or a softer ablative paint. It is more maintenance, but it can make a big difference in boat speed.

On this page:

What slows you down, bottom preparation is everything, maintaining the finish, alternatives to hard and burnished, how much faster is it, what are your goals, racing vs. cruising.

In a word: friction. Friction causes turbulence and drag

Without requiring a degree in Computational Fluid Dynamics to explain it, a rough bottom is slower. More friction is slower - think about rubbing your hand across a carpeted floor versus a glass table top with a little oil spilled on it. Which is easier? Now imagine you're playing with a toy boat on either surface. If you push the boat, which one will be easier to push? Which might even keep sliding a little if you let it go?

Getting more into the science (still without the degree!), when fluids move over a surface there is a "boundary layer," the layer of fluid closest to the surface skin. When a hard surface moves through a liquid, molecules of the liquid get dragged along with it. This increases "skin friction" and causes drag. The faster something moves, the more drag.

If the flow of molecules in the boundary layer is "laminar", it is evenly spread and more calm. A "turbulent" boundary layer pulls more water with it and causes more friction and drag. A smooth bottom helps maintain laminar flow and reduce turbulence and drag as the boat speeds up.

These forces can be considerable if a boat bottom is not a fair surface, and the effect is more pronounced at higher boat speeds.

Given the power provided from your sails is constant, a boat with less drag will move through the water faster.

Spraying a layer of VC Offshore or Baltoplate on your boat will not make it instantly faster. To get the full benefit of a hard, fast bottom paint job the surface bottom must be prepared with care.

• Old incompatible bottom paint must be stripped. You can't put a Teflon based paint over an ablative or copolymer paint. It won't stay on.
• The bottom should be "faired." The aim is to create a smooth, curved surface with no bumps, dips or ripples. This is labor intensive and requires expertise and a keen eye to fair a hull.
• The bottom should be sanded smooth after fairing and before painting. Even if an orange is round and fair, if you spray paint it you will not end up with a smooth surface. You must start with a smooth surface.
• For a fast finish, spraying gives an even, smoother coating and reduces the amount of sanding time. Rolling hard bottom paint makes little sense because of the increased work from the rough paint application.
• Sanding and wet sanding is a must. Sprayed paint will still feel rough to the touch. For a fast finish sanding and wet sanding with up to 400 grit sandpaper will get results.
• Burnishing is a step even farther than wet sanding, and can give a mirror finish to a well prepared bottom.

Hard bottom paints designed for racing are not as effective at preventing grown as softer ablative paints or copolymers. They don't hold as much active antifouling, and it doesn't leach out of the paint or get refreshed since the paint doesn't slough off. And wet sanding and burnishing both remove some surface active ingredients.

In high growth areas, a racing finish with require constant maintenance and cleaning. When I raced my last boat, I had a diver come every week to clean the bottom and we dove on the boat ourselves at major regattas. You won't get hard growth quickly, but you will get slime buildup in very little time which can slow you.

You may not get two seasons from a coat of racing paint. If you don't, you'll want to wet sand it before the start of the season to ensure everything is smooth and ready again. The good news is that a properly prepared bottom is easy to re-spray and sand back to a good finish compared to the first time you do it.

What if you don't dive, can't clean your boat regularly, or don't want to pay a diver? Maybe you just want to go faster but aren't a speed-mad racer looking for every 1/10th of a knot speed extra?

Dry sailing for smaller boats is very popular. Fair the bottom and leave it unpainted or put on an underwater epoxy paint. As long as you don't store the boat in the water for more than a couple of days during a regatta there shouldn't be any growth. Most dinghies are dry sailed. Many smaller boats kept at clubs or marinas with a crane have this option, though there may be a cost to haul and launch.

If you stay in the water, a good choice is a hard copolymer paint. These are often referred to as "self polishing," as they smooth themselves with use as the paint sloughs off. Many of these are quite hard and can be carefully sanded to a smooth finish. Since they’re softer, you don’t want to sand through the paint. With proper preparation before painting, a sprayed paint job, and a little sanding, your bottom can be almost as fast as the high maintenance race boats.

Even without the sanding, a good bottom preparation before painting can give you more speed on passages. These paints are popular with long distance cruisers and people who use their boats frequently. You'll lose a little edge if you're racing, but you won't put yourself at the back of the fleet with it.

"What are you getting for your money" is a common question when preparing a boat for racing. The faster bottom and the newest sails won't win races for you if your crew can't tack or gybe and you can't spot wind shifts. You can lose the entire advantage of that quarter knot speed increase with a blown tack or a missed shift.

From personal experience, replacing a rough, coarse, orange-peel looking bottom with a polished and burnished bottom made a big difference. Both in my boat speed, and my wallet. It was expensive to do and expensive to maintain. But the boat was faster, and we were racing competitive regional events. The difference was most noticeable at low speeds and in light air.

There is not a lot of empirical data about how much faster a burnished Teflon bottom is over a well prepared copolymer paint. So the answer is "yes, it's faster," but with your boat, your budget, and your application there’s no way to predict that you may be 5% or 10% or half a knot faster.

To the casual club racer or cruiser, is it worth the time and money to prepare and maintain the fastest of possible finishes? It may not be; that's a question that only you can answer.

The best choice for a fast bottom comes down to you, your boat, and how you will use it.

• Are you a racer? If yes, is it weeknight club racing, or are you racing at higher level regional events against serious racers?
• If you cruise, how much maintenance are you willing to do to keep every extra fraction of a knot of speed?
• Where do you sail? Some areas have more aggressive growth than others. A sailor in the Great Lakes may get away with a hard bottom paint with less work than a New England coastal racer or a cruiser in the Caribbean.
• What is your budget for bottom preparation and maintenance? Are you willing and able to do some yourself?
• What us the current condition of your bottom? How ready is it for a top quality refinishing?

You will find very few non-racers who take the time and effort to apply the fastest bottom paints. The cost/benefit/effort analysis doesn't show a reasonable payback for what you get.

Most sailors aren't taking their boats to world-class regatta venues, they're taking off for weekends and vacations and maybe doing the club series on Wednesday nights or the annual regatta. Most of those boats are not going through the expense and effort for a competitive racing finish.

On the other hand, if you're racing in a competitive one-design fleet at New York Yacht Club Race Week or the San Diego NOOD Regatta, you can bet almost every boat in your fleet will have a smooth, wet sanded finish.

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You may also like, do i need to antifoul (bottom paint) my boat - sometimes.

Any time you buy a new boat, you get a work list as long as your arm. Bottom paint is expensive, toxic, and can be difficult to apply. It's an easy task to want to …

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whats the best bottom paint for racing

• Add to quote

I am stripping all of the 27 yrs of bottompaint off and will be applying several coats of new...except this time i want to put a faster bottom on her and was curious to what yall suggest?? lancer 36  

It depends... do you keep the boat in the water or not?  

yes saltwater,NC  

Racers like hard paints like VC17 or Baltoplate. Note that the bottom paint wont be any faster than the quality of the bottom prep underneath the paint. if you you don't spend 5-10 full days fairing the bottom with microballoon filler and a long board, don't bother with a hard bottom paint, just roll on some ablative stuff and go sailing...more slowly.  

Bottom paints tend to behave differenty in different areas. Ask the racers in your area what they use and how they like. Your best bet will probably be to go with thier consensus. I use Baltoplate and like it. However, note that none of these paints are going to be as effective as the cruising alternatives at keeping growth off; you will have to regularly clean your bottom.  

you will have to regularly clean your bottom. Click to expand...

Mikelivingstone said: At Jason, I am considering switching from ablative bottom paint to try to better performance. But would like to ask how often does it have to be cleaned underwater? Mike Click to expand...

Yes, certainly before any major race I'll either get in and scrub or get a diver. In the meantime, I use a Dri-Diver ( DRI-DIVER - Boat Hull Cleaner, Remove hull growth from the dock ) to keep the hull free of too much growth accumulation. I'll scrub with the Dri Diver once or twice a month and dive (or pay a diver if it's cold) 7 or 8 times a year.  

NOLA..thanks for the link.. we use an old fishing net with a line tied on both ends..tyhe ropes go up the and up the hull on each side to a person on each side standing on the deck then one pulls the other one lets go a little ,and both move back and forth like a saw, and walk back  

Thanks for d advice Jason and Alex. -Jason can you operate the dri diver from your own boat? Also the rope and net method can be done up to the keel only? Will any of the methods clean the keel? I am not a serious racer but appreciate good performance. Thanks Mike  

Mike, the problem is it does not clean the keel...you really need to dive or wash with pressure washer  

Thanks, I'm thinking of investing in a diving course anyway.  

Just take the boat to Gozo...and do a little dive..lazy bastardo.....  

Alex, if no one has said it to you I will. You have to many animals in your life. What's up with Penguin bottom paint.  

did you ever talk to the guys at Enemalta? I miss Malta so much...left wonderfull frineds there...and I remeber going to to a cliff (where they found the great white), and eat Hobbz bis zeit.(mispelled)  

Mikelivingstone said: Still hope u make the Middle sea race next year. Click to expand...

Why do you need a radar for the middle sea race?  

Not for the race....to get there from Portugal...especially going into Gibraltar.. Once there it comes off..  

chucklesR said: Do you have to dive if your draft is only 18 inches? I wipe my bottom with a sponge while standing next to the boat. Guys, don't go there, keep the thread on topic Click to expand...

Understand, It can sit in my garage for the race if you like....and any other stuff you want to unload during the race.  

The method Gui proposes works well and it does clean the keel. In fact, there's a commercial product that does the same thing (EZ Diver, or something). The negative is that it takes two people and is a bit cumbersome. I like the Dri Diver because I can do it myself or, if we're prepping the boat to race, hand it off to a newbie crew who may not know how to rig the boat. As for the keel issue - for me the keel does not accumulate growth nearly as quickly as hull nearer the waterline and along the rudder. I can clean my transom hung rudder with the deck brush and the rest of the hull with the Dri Diver. For the keel, it takes getting in the water, but a scrub every six weeks or so keeps it pretty slick. I can clean my keel by free diving. Gui's Penguin paint may be a good paint. I've seen videos of Penguins and it looks like they move through the water very well. I had no idea Gui painted them though... Seriously - bottom paint behaves differently in different regions, so I'll say again, go with what the majority of the successful racers in your area are using.  

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SPEEDCOAT-49

The very best in high performance boat bottom coatings.

Optimize Speed!  Use Less Fuel!

Resist pond scum and fouling, and super easy to clean .

Specifically, what is Speedcoat-49? It is a permanent, non-ablative, hard boat bottom coating that utilizes unique Wearlon chemistry to achieve hydrophobicity, non-stick and anti-friction properties.

Speedcoat-49 began as a water-drag-reducing hull coating for power boat racers, but now it is highly coveted by all sorts of boaters that not only want to go faster, but also use less fuel, and provide an easy to clean, non-stick surface against pond slime, algae, and fouling. But perhaps most crucial of all, it is a non-ablative bottom coating!

This high performance hull coating will help every kind of boat perform better, and in many different ways. Boats such as pontoon boats, speed boats, and all sporting and leisure boats, will see benefit in these six significant ways.

Six Huge Reasons why Speedcoat-49 is the best bottom coating for your boat:

1.) Lowers water drag , which means increased speeds and fuel savings:

Speedcoat-49 is used by powerboat racing teams to achieve optimal speeds, win races, and acquire championships. As with many high quality speed coatings, SC-49 is hydrophobic.

However there are many misconceptions about hydrophobicity. Many think that with improved hydrophobicity comes improved water drag, and faster speeds. NOT TRUE . Hydrophobicity helps because the surface tension causes water to bead up. But what really matters is how fast those water beads want to travel all along the surface as it is shedding off. Often times, beads of water will actually want to cling. The U.S. Navy tested numerous hydrophobic and water drag resistant coatings for various marine applications. Not only have they chosen SC-49 for many of their naval vessels, they also coat their battleship radomes because SC-49 has excellent water shedding properties, and that is crucial with this type of equipment.

Movement of water along the surface and water drag resistance is the key to speed. Speedcoat-49 is a unique coating with unique chemistry. Boat racers understand this. That’s why Wearlon SC-49 is being used by boat racers at the highest levels.  Some of these racers, like these Unlimited Hydroplaners, can reach speeds of over 200 MPH.

But obviously, most boaters are not racers. Sporting and leisure boaters can also benefit from increased performance. Even smaller (engined) leisure boaters are recording higher speeds , and decreased fuel consumption.

-(see the “Speed Data” tab on the menu bar for more technical info on speed and drag reduction).

“The acceleration is incredible – you gotta hang on. I can beat anybody on our lake. Went from 77/78 MPH to 81 MPH ” – Al Craig, 300 HP Sea Doo

2.) Foul & Slime Resistant and Easy to Clean :

When it comes to the need for foul resistance, ablative paints are the go-to. And yes, most ablative paints get the job done in terms of anti-fouling. But, in doing so it leaches toxic metals into our waters. This unfortunate reality has become a necessary evil in dealing with the extreme fouling problems salt water has to offer. But, SC-49 has proven itself as an excellent foul-resistant coating in fresh water. Zebra mussels, algae, and all the types of fouling encountered in fresh water are no match for SC-49. So why use ablative in fresh water? Why poison our freshwater with this stuff when you don’t have to? Not to mention, ablatives still stain, dull out, deteriorate, and hardly last a season. Speedcoat-49 is so slick and non-stick, fouling organisms have a difficult time sticking to it. In most cases, your hull will become easy to clean with a hose and a soft nylon brush and maintain a vibrant appearance and functionality.

From David Morrill in NH, here is a typical example of a Speedcoat-49 experience:

And here is Speedcoat-49 under a worse-case-scenario:

“ Lake Hopping ” has become more difficult due to ever increasing regulations forcing boaters to clean their hulls before and after every launch. SC-49 makes this much easier. Easy clean, means saving time and money. It also means deterring those horrible-looking scum lines.

-(See the “Anti-Fouling Data” tab on the menu bar for more technical info).

 ” I was experiencing significant hull cleaning problems from leaving the boat in the water for the summer at Lake Erie. I found the product did a excellent job resisting the growth of algae/crud from the lake. Most of the growth came off while the boat was running (probably due to the slickness of the coating).” – Ken Huckaby, 20′ Crestliner

3.) Speedcoat-49 is a permanent, hard, non-ablative coating :

Today’s boaters largely go with one of four options for bottom coatings. They are: seasonal ablatives, solvent-based permanent, waterbased permanent, and gel coat.

Solvent and water-based permanent paints are primarily meant to be protective and durable, but don’t offer much in terms of foul resistance, cleanability, or anything else.

Gel coats are the shiny fiber enriched epoxy/polyester finish that looks sharp and glossy. For that reason, many do not want to put a coating over this. But after a short period of time in water, gel coats and protective coatings alike, pick up discoloration, algae, fouling, and waterline stains, all of which are very difficult to clean, and slow down the boat. Extensive and expensive acid-etch cleaning usually becomes necessary at this point.

And then there are ablatives. If you are using an ablative anti-fouling bottom paint on your freshwater boat, you are releasing poison into our waterways , and into the fish you are trying to catch and eat. Speedcoat-49 is eco-friendly, and is perfectly safe for our water systems and aquatic life.

Today, most of all anti-fouling bottom paints are ablative. Ablatives are self-sacrificial. These paints are actually designed to deteriorate, to be self-sacrificial, constantly leaching toxic biocides and heavy metals out until the paint fully deteriorates.

These toxic leaching bottom paints are a tremendous scourge on aquatic life. It is already an unfortunate necessity that such coatings are being used in our oceans. They are a necessary evil in salt water in combating barnacles and such, but to use such toxic coatings in our freshwater rivers and lakes,… it really is unconscionable and unnecessary! But that is happening. Also, using ablatives means constant re-application which makes it a cash cow for paint manufacturers, retail boat stores, and marinas. It has become real “racket”.

Speedcoat-49 does not leach harmful toxins into the water as it’s method of action to combat fouling. Instead, Speedcoat-49 works on the principle that a super slick and non-stick surface is very difficult for algae, pond scum, zebra and quagga mussels to get adhesion to.

And unlike ablatives, Speedcoat-49 lasts for many seasons without any need for recoat. This means big savings on those high costs marinas charge for seasonal cleaning and re-application.

Speedcoat-49 offers the performance of top-notch speedcoats, the durability of permanent protective coatings, the fresh water foul-resistance of ablatives, and it’s easy cleanability is unsurpassed.

“ It definitely helps” “on there for 3 seasons with no issues” “definitely smoother and slicker” “durable” – John Culver, 1L Mod Hydro

4.) Speedcoat-49 is safe and easy to apply and touch up , (And no primer coat needed) :

Many boat bottom paints require primer coats because the top coat has weak adhesion to aluminum and other surfaces. SC-49 adheres great to just about any surface type. And it is durable and long-lasting, so an extra primer coat is not needed.

Speedcoat-49 is also non hazardous and water based. It is safe and easy to apply. It can be applied yourself with a standard paint roller or by spray.

With toxic ablative coatings, and solvent based high VOC permanent coatings, you either have to spend big $ on pro marina applicators, or try doing it yourself. But read what a Senior Admiral Club member on the popular “The Hull Truth” website, warns about trying to apply a standard ablative and solvent based paint yourself. Here are a few excerpts from his post:

“A bottom job ain’t what it used to be. I used to do it myself, but no longer will even consider it. Ablative Bottom paints are hazardous materials and constitute hazardous waste. Fumes from bottom paints are poisonous.”

“ So here goes: You will need to get into a proper full paint suit and wear a ventilator. Nothing on you should be exposed. Scrape away until the all loose paint is removed, scuffed, or ready to be painted over. Clean up debris. Remove all old zincs. “

“ Paint on first coat in a color DIFFERENT from desired color. After first coat dries, paint with desired color. This way, when you see the not desired color, you know that you need another bottom job. You may want to have air pumped into a face shield as bottom paint fumes are very toxic.”

“ There is whole lot more to do here. it took me 4 weekends. Presently, the going rate is $26 per foot plus materials. To me, that’s a deal.” -posted by ‘High Interest’ (Senior Admiral Club member on  The Hull Truth Forum)

SC-49 is a waterbased and relatively low VOC coating. And from a hazard standpoint, it is much like a typical latex house paint used in a home.

With Speedcoat-49, there is no more constant reapplications. And compared to the nightmare of trying to coat your boat yourself with ablatives, and other solvent-based permanent coats, SC-49 is safe, easy and the job is done in hours, not weeks .

Lastly, SC-49 is permanent and durable. But if somehow there is damage, touching up is a cinch. It has great adhesion to aluminum, fiberglass, gel coat, and to itself, and will last for many seasons.

5.) Specifically engineered by Plastic Maritime Corp, a long-standing and distinguished company.

For over three decades PMC, makers of Wearlon Industrial Coatings , has been on the technological forefront within the waterbased industrial coatings class for achieving optimal results in areas of nonstick, anti-friction, hydrophobics, and water drag resistance. Wearlon chemistry is unique. There is no other coating like it; it is a patented technology.

PMC has also introduced its shallow-water boat bottom coating line (for sportsmen) called Wetlander . This extra tough and super slick bottom coating has quickly become a top seller for jon boaters, drift boaters, mud boaters, jet boaters, and airboaters.

6.) Speedcoat-49 outperforms the competition:

High performance racers, the US Navy and all those that put performance first, choose SC-49. Just read what our customers have to say on our Testimonials page.

The benefits of SPEEDCOAT-49 are now being realized on every variety of boats,… lake cruisers, pontoons, catamarans, jet boats, bass boats, trolling rigs, sailboats, race boats, jet skis, hydroplanes, sprint boats, ski boats, drag boats and even kayaks. Speedcoat-49 will get you moving faster through the water, decrease your fuel consumption, and keep your hull clean, and keep our lakes, rivers and oceans clean.

“It’s the best thing I ever did for my boat” “after 450 hours of boating and trailering it still looks brand new.  It’s the best coating in the world” -Dave Jensen,  Tritoon with 250 HP

Sponsored boat racers, university researchers, and the United States Navy, have all done extensive testing with Speedcoat-49.

Just read what all of our customers have to say about SC-49 performance .

The Racers : The smaller, stock runabout racers say they get 1/2 to 1.0 “extra” MPH while using Speedcoat-49, compared to other bottom coatings they have tried.  The guys we get the most data from race in stock classes that can reach speeds anywhere from 80 to 200 MPH, so a little extra means a lot.

The Universities : SPEEDCOAT-49  has been independently tested by universities and research labs all over the world. The University of Buffalo offered volumes of data showing the decreases in water-drag

The US Navy: The US Navy, through it’s various subcontractors, have been applying our Speedcoat-49 coating to key areas of nuclear submarines and battleships for over a decade. But, they don’t share data.

Application Product Data : SPEEDCOAT-49 can be applied by anyone.  You do not need a professional applicator, special materials, licenses, or a Haz Mat suit to apply it.

• SPEEDCOAT-49 is non-ablative and remains effective for years.
• Contains no heavy metals or biocides.
• Suitable for both fresh and saltwater; however, this is NOT a barnacle-proof coating in saltwater.
• Water-based formula is stable, easy to apply, and will not harm the environment.
• SPEEDCOAT-49 is applied directly to aluminum  with no primer; two complete coats is sufficient.
• SPEEDCOAT-49 is applied directly to fiberglass and gelcoat with no primer; two complete coats is sufficient.

Free samples are available!

Just email your address to [email protected] , with the subject line “speedcoat-49 test panel”, and we will send you a pre-coated panel to test., share this:, 28 comments on “ speedcoat-49 ”.

I have a 14’ aluminum boat that is oxidized and showing holes now. I am concerned about wire brushing since I feel lots more holes will show up. Will your coatings take care of this issue ?

Hi William,

If your aluminum is that thin, and that “holey”, and that oxidized…. well, you know it might be too late for the ol’ girl. I haven’t seen your boat, so I cannot comment directly, but -49 is a two-part epoxy, so it can help seal up some minor pinholes holes and prevent further oxidation damage. However, I would not expect it to fill in and/or cover large holes. There should not be a need to for an aggressive wire brush; we can get good adhesion results with just 100-150 grit sandpaper and an acetone wipe. Please feel free to call me directly at 518-469-3612 so we can go over your specific situation in more detail.

Can your product be applied over existing paint or does the bottom need to be sandblasted to gelcoat before applying your product please let me know thank you

Yes, Speedcoat-49 can be applied over an existing paint, as long as that existing paint is in very good shape, and is not an ablative, or sacrificial “bottom paint”. Your best bet would be to give me a call at (518) 469-3612, and I will ask you a series of questions. From there, we can both decide what your best move is.

I have a 26’ Triton bay boat. Is there anyone you would recommend for the application of speed coat 49?

Any local marina, boat yard, or boat repair shop will have no problem applying Speedcoat-49. It is safer and easier to apply than most of the other coatings they are used to applying.

i have a aluminum boat that i race in a tiller handle class will this product help me on the days when the water is slick slowing me down

Stock racers are the ones who like Speedcoat-49 the best, as it gives them a bit of an edge. If you are currently racing with a bare aluminum hull, I think you will feel a huge difference…

Hi where can I purchase your product

Hi Salvatore,

You order it from us, the manufacturer, and we ship it directly to your door. You can order from Speedcoat49.com, or you can call me at 518-469-3612.

Wanting something for my 1987 fiberglass bass boat that I have in a freshwater river. Always seems to have some kind of scum line from all the vegetation that happens to be in the water. Was wondering a couple of things. Does this change how the handling of the boat by being so slick surface. And does this come in just colors or is there a clear for the custom striping of metallic red that I have on the side of my boat.

Speedcoat-49 is perfect for reducing that scum line and making it much easier to wipe away. The handling will not be effected too much if you have any kind of lower unit in the water, longitudinal ribs in the water, or even a keel. Some jet boats with super round bellies (and airboats) will swing wide in a turn, but those guys are used to it, and like it! Only colors; no clear coat version.

I have an aluminum boat that I use in the salt water. When not in use it is in dry storage. Once I have been using the boat after about 3 weeks a moss/algae growth starts appearing on the sides below the water line. After about 5 weeks in the water small barnacles start showing up on the bottom. I usually don’t keep the boat in the water for over six weeks before I have in out and back on dry dock. I have to clean the and sides that were below the waterline. If I take it out of the salt water after just 3 weeks I usually don’t have to clean it at all. I am wondering if the Speedcoat-49 coating would extend the time before I start to get the build up of moss/algae and barnacles.

In salt water specifically, I don’t think the Speedcoat-49 would extend the amount of time before the fouling begins to build up, but it would make cleaning it up much easier. However, I do not like Speedcoat-49 in barnacle infested water. It is not better than a standard anti-fouling, and I do not want disappointed customers.

Where can I pick up some

Scott, I purchased Speedcoat-49 for a racing sailboat. Unlike a motorboat that benefits from dimples, racing sailboats benefit from a fair, smooth, burnished finish. I read your application notes, and it states to avoid sanding. Why? Because, I plan on burnishing the finish to 1500 grit.

Because the Speedcoat-49 gets it’s beneficial attributes from the chemistry and the non-stick nature of the coating… by smooth sanding or burnishing, you are simply removing an amount of the coating. Sand if you must, but I’d rather see you leave the surface as it is. If you want the smoothest surface possible, spray it on an there will be no need to remove any dimples.

Good news for Wetlander, I will be buying more gallon kits. I will be burnishing to 1500 grit. Sailboats need at least a bottom wetsanded to 400 grit at a minimum for speed regardless of coating type. I will need to compensate for at least two coats loss for leveling and burnishing. So, probably 5 coats will be applied by flock foam roller. The boat is on Lake Ontario in NY, so we will see how well it works next season in Sodus. Thanks!

Hi Scott, I have a 2013 62 Princess and the bottom of the boat is being sand blasted completely. I am applying propspeed on all metals and was looking for something to cover the rest of the hull that would protect and improve overall performance. Will your product accomplish this?

Are you in salt water, or fresh? What do you use the boat for? What is/was on the bottom that you are now sandblasting off? What do you mean by overall performance? Feel free to call me at 518-469-3612 or email me at [email protected] if that is easier for you.

So I have your product on my boat. I have bumped and dinged it. Can I sand and apply to only the spots I need to. Basically like touch up.

hi… Im from India

can i apply speed coat on wooden boat…?

Yes, you can apply Speedcoat-49 to a wooden boat, but ONLY if it has a layer of fiberglass and epoxy on there already… I do not like Speedcoat-49 on BARE wood.

Can speedcoat 49 applied to outrigger canoes like these? https://www.kaiwaa.com/draco-oc1

Hi Jennifer,

As long as the final “water facing” layer on these canoes is either gelcoat, an epoxy resin, polyurethane or carbon fiber, then yes. Based on the shine in the pics, I am going to guess it is a clear coating that has been buffed, but that is a guess. I have sent in an email to the company to ask what the specific outermost coating is… I hope to hear back from them and I will come back here and follow up.

Thanks, Scott H.

Follow up: Alicia at the Kai Waa company responded with the following statement “The factory finish is a marine grade acrylic urethane clearcoat, over the basecoat on top of carbon fiber.” Therefore, my answer is a definitive Yes, you can apply Speedcoat-49 over the existing Kai Waa hulls.

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-mike jensen, tritoon with 250 hp.

“Major difference. Looks awesome. Completely changes the boat.  It looks great, wears great, and makes loading and unloading super easy”.

-Dave Jensen,  Tritoon with 250 HP

“It’s the best thing I ever did for my boat” “after 450 hours of boating and trailering it still looks brand new.  It’s the best coating in the world”

G. Bachman, 12 ft. aluminum boat

“I put that other order on my 12 foot tinny and it worked great. I got 12 1/2 mph out of a 6 hp 4 stroke when the boat was fully loaded with about 450 lbs ( gear, trolling motor, battery and me), well up from the previous 9 mph! Doesn’t seem much but it makes a big difference on the water. And that stuff is pretty durable as well, even after driving the boat on the beach, banging it off a few rocks, barely a scratch! I had about 10% left over, even after putting on three thick coats!”

G. Chandler, boat racer

GRAY CHANDLER – PS. Just a little feed back on the Wearlon. We have been testing the Wearlon with other anti foul coatings in the Marina [ salt water ] . These have been in the water since last September. No effect at all on the Wearlon whilst the other coatings have snails, algae, etc all over them. Will give the test a full 12 months . At this rate the result for Wearlon is excellent. Cheers.

“I raced last weekend with both the hydro and runabout. (Both are coated with Wearlon). I won both the DASH FOR THE CASH (one of the hardest races in the country to win) and the North American Championship in CSR. So, the wins just keep on coming and Wearlon is a part of the success.

DuckManDan, Tritoon Pontoon

I put the Speedcoat 49 on my tri-toon and I love it, worked perfect, everybody now wants it at the marina, no poontoon cleaning yea! No grass build up nice.

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Your Ultimate Boating Resource

Sailing Smoothly: The Best Guide to Selecting the Perfect Bottom Paint for Your Boat

Maintaining your boat’s performance and longevity is deeply anchored in the choice of the right bottom paint. It’s not just about aesthetics; it’s about creating a shield against marine life that can slow you down.

Dive into this all-encompassing guide to discover how the right bottom paint, tailored to your boating lifestyle, can make a world of difference.

The Vital Role of Bottom Paint

Think of your boat’s hull as a warrior in constant battle against underwater foes. Without bottom paint, it’s vulnerable to fouling, which can lead to reduced speed and efficiency. The secret weapon? Bottom paint infused with biocides that repel these unwelcome guests, keeping your hull sleek and swift.

Exploring the Seas of Bottom Paint Choices

Navigating the world of bottom paints can be like sailing through uncharted waters. There’s hard paint for the long haul, ablative paint that gracefully wears away with use, and even eco-friendly options that embrace green sailing. Each type has its unique strengths, so your choice should reflect your nautical needs.

The Copper Conundrum

Copper-based paints have long been the go-to for their fouling-fighting prowess. But as we become more conscious of our environmental impact, it’s important to weigh the effectiveness against potential ecological concerns.

Tailoring Paint to Your Boating Style

Your boating habits are the compass that guides your choice of bottom paint. Whether you’re leisurely cruising or racing against the wind, there’s a paint that aligns perfectly with your aquatic adventures:

Cruising Boats

With sleek and sturdy boats, their hulls coated in durable paint, resist the corrosive forces of time and tide. These vessels offer unwavering protection, allowing you to sail confidently through any weather conditions.

Racing Boats

For those seeking speed, ablative paints provide a slick and clean surface that is crucial for cutting through the waves. Their sleek, streamlined bodies sliced through the water with precision and speed. Each boat was coated in a shimmering layer of ablative paint, creating a smooth and clean surface that was essential for achieving maximum velocity.

Factors to Navigate When Choosing Paint

The waters you sail, the material of your hull, and even local laws are crucial markers in your journey to the perfect paint:

As you glide through the vast expanse of ocean, the type of water beneath your boat plays a crucial role in determining the ideal paint for your vessel. The crystal clear waters of a freshwater lake call for a different coating than the salty waves of the open sea. And even the laws and regulations of the local area can impact your choice of paint.

Hull Material

Selecting the hull material for your boat is like choosing a vessel as a sailor. The material you choose will play a crucial role in determining which type of paint will adhere best and provide optimal protection for your boat. Think carefully about your options, for the material itself can greatly impact the performance and longevity of your watercraft on the open seas.

DIY or Professional

Taking on a DIY project can be both exciting and daunting. Are you confident in your skills to paint your own ship, or will you leave it to the professionals? Consider the type of paint you choose–some are more forgiving for those without professional experience. As you set out on this endeavor, envision yourself as a deckhand navigating rough seas, armed with your chosen brush and paint, ready to transform your ship into a masterpiece.

Local Rules of the Sea

As you sail the open sea, always keep a vigilant watch on the horizon for any local regulations that may dictate your voyage. Pay special attention to any restrictions regarding copper-based options, as they may affect your journey in unexpected ways. Stay informed and navigate confidently to ensure smooth sailing ahead.

Final Thoughts

Your boat is more than a vessel; it’s a testament to your passion for the sea. Choosing the right bottom paint is a crucial step in ensuring it remains your faithful companion on countless voyages. With a keen understanding of the types of bottom paint and a thoughtful consideration of your boating style and environment, you can set sail confidently, knowing your boat is as ready for adventure as you are. Keep your hull in prime condition, and the sea will always welcome you with open arms.

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Best Bottom Paint for Racing Boats

• By Ralph Naranjo
• Updated: August 1, 2007

Research and real world feedback from competitive sailors confirms that the best bottom paint systems largely depend on geographic location. Differences in temperature, salinity, dissolved oxygen, and sunlight, as well as the length of the in-water season all impact bottom paint performance.

To better understand what worked best and where, we caucused speed shops and raceboat-favored boatyards around the country. Opinions varied, but a few points of consensus carried from one location to the next. One given was that a carefully faired keel and an epoxy primed and smoothly sanded bottom was the required starting point for all products. Another was that the higher the level of competition, the more often the bottom would be cleaned during the season.

From there, recommendations about the best bottom paint seemed to split down the middle with half favoring soft ablative coatings that hydrolyze, or slowly wear away to expose a fresh layer of slime-fighting chemicals. The other half favored hard, modified epoxy paint that can be scrubbed, wet sanded, and burnished to the point where the bottom looks like a polished beryllium sphere.

Shops servicing the needs of top-tier racers tended to favor the latter while those with predominantly club racer clientele felt the best bang for the buck came from high-biocide ablative coatings sprayed by a competent applicator.Paul Miller, a Naval Architecture Professor at the U.S. Naval Academy, who regularly tank tests slippery surfaces, recently reiterated that biological fouling starts within a couple of days of immersion, and even the first layer of bacteria can increase skin drag. He also pointed out that research has shown that a slippery coating does not in itself create less skin drag, but it does create a surface that marine plants and animals are less able to adhere to.

Developing a faster surface is about retaining laminar flow over more of the submerged hull skin, and shy of illegal practices, such as injecting polymers, detergents, and other chemicals into the water flow adjacent to the hull skin, smoothness and hull fairness are the variables worth improving. Paints, patents, and promisesBottom paints with chemicals defined as toxic to a wide range of marine organisms have been progressively removed from the market, and manufactures are developing effective ways to minimize biological growth.

In recent years, the definition of hazardous material has expanded to include Tributyltin (TBT)-a tin-based compound that is effective in bottom coatings. It remains legal for vessels longer than 82 feet, but its days are numbered. Soon it will join arsenic, mercury, and lead on the list of materials to be kept out of the water column. The importance of this development is crucial to competitors sailing to or shipping boats to Europe where tin has long been completely outlawed. Boats entering European waters must have a document detailing the coatings applied to their underbody-each layer, not just the last coat.Copper is now in the sights of regulatory researchers, and is already outlawed in some parts of Europe.

The result is new renditions of antifouling coatings must be made with less toxic or even non-toxic material. Making biocides that don’t end up in the environment is a priority as is further development of coatings that are too slick for organisms to attach to. Progress has been made, we have yet to surpass the performance of conventional top-of-the-line biocide-loaded paints, which are not as effective as tin-laced paints, and which have disappeared from U.S. and European chandlery shelves. Sailors are good stewards of the environment, but when it comes to bottom paint we’re still waiting for a “green” solution that can live up to the performance sailor’s needs.

The status quo is a multi-track approach-products with higher copper content still hold the antifouling edge. But, to racers there’s a second, highly valued characteristic of bottom paint-the ability to polish it to a smooth, slick surface. This is why ablative coatings that hydrolyze gained so much initial appeal. Their self-polishing chemistry releases biocide throughout the season, creating a near steady state antifouling quality. There’s also the upside of a smooth surface and an ability to haul and re-launch without destroying the antifouling quality of the paint. This triple set of advantages is further bolstered by zero paint buildup, as well as a surface that actually grows smoother with time. The problem was these claims were overly enthusiastic, and to really be ready for an important regatta, the bottom still needed to be wiped or scrubbed, a process that removed a significant amount of material, especially if done every couple of weeks.

Traditional hard, high-copper non-ablative bottom paints continue to have a strong following. They provide high initial antifouling quality and can be wet sanded to a smooth surface. In regions where the sailing season amounts to less than half of the year, and the normal routine includes regular bottom scrubs, these hard durable surfaces still make sense especially when the bottom is painstakingly wet sanded and burnished. Seasonal paint buildup is an inherent problem with hard coatings, and over a few years the skin can become cracked, chipped, or flaked.

Once this happens, it’s time for a labor-intensive bottom strip and paint makeover. Care must be taken during this process not to damage the fairness of the underlying surface.Slick, low-drag coatings are also on the market, and they deter fouling through the physical nature or lubricity of their skin rather than through copper content or other toxins. They’re effective in regions where fouling is less active, but they need to be carefully applied in order to develop as flawless a surface as possible. Some are soft and the surface may be wiped with a sponge but not scrubbed with an abrasive pad. A weekly wipe down by a swimmer with a sponge keeps the surface functional for the season, but if a month of inactivity slips by, barnacles may adhere to the surface and the show is over.

While regulations steadily eliminate biocides from antifouling coatings, other factors are conspiring to increase fouling rates. In some harbors it’s increased nutrients from farm run off or sewage treatment plants that boosts growth. Warmer water associated with global warming, and in some cases, better water quality are associated with the higher growth rates of organisms clinging to boat bottoms. The Mid-Atlantic has been plagued by an upturn in Bryazoan growth, a tenacious black mat-like coating that thrives in low-salinity conditions.

Barnacle growth in southern waters is booming. Ballast water dumped by globe-girdling freighters bring new organisms to local estuaries, and where conditions are right, they, too, find a new home on your boat’s keel, rudder, or hull skin. New products from companies such as E-Paint, which use zinc rather than tin or copper looking promising, but the best way to pick the right paint product for your racing commitment and local waters is to see what the industry experts use, check with others in your marina, and see for yourself which products are doing the best job.The CostPaint is the last thing to skimp on, and even budget-bound racers should invest in the best performing material for their part of the country.

The cost of a haul out, prep work, spray application, and diver service significantly exceeds the material cost of what’s in the can. Skimping on the quality or quantity of paint just doesn’t make sense. The big question is the level of finish desired, the cost of the management routine associated with bottom maintenance, and whether or not you bite the bullet and pay for the spray application of a hard finish product, the associated wet sanding, and also shoulder the cost of regular dive service that goes hand-in-hand with the top-tier competitor approach to bottom finish. Or, you opt for an ablative, self-polishing paint that requires no wet sanding, fewer bouts of bottom cleaning, and is perhaps less effective as a low-drag surface. Do-it-yourself prep work can help lower the application cost, but many yards mandate that they do all of the bottom work.Bottom Paint ResourcesAwlgrip: www.awlgrip.com E-Paint: www.epaint.net Interlux: www.interlux.com Pettit: www.pettitpaint.com Sea Hawk: www.seahawkpaints.com

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VC Offshore Regatta Baltoplate

VC Offshore Baltoplate is a specialized hard antifouling for the dedicated racing or high performance boat, combining antifouling protection with the smoothness and low friction of a racing finish. For use on fiberglass, wood and primed metals (except aluminum), with proven performance on winning boats.

Not for use in California

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Good to know

• Low-friction antifouling for powerboats and sailboats
• Sand and polish for a gleaming metallic finish
• Suitable for use in all waters

Available colors

Download technical datasheet.

Contains detailed information on everything from the substances used to the application method.

• Technical datasheet - EN (PDF 149KB)

Technical data excerpt

* Method for professional use only

Safety information

The safety datasheet contains detailed information for the current formulation of this product such as hazardous ingredients, first-aid measures, fire-fighting measures, handling and storage. To make sure you have the right datasheet, please find the corresponding color and formula on your can. The formula is usually on the bottom. We provide safety datasheets for each latest formula. For missing safety datasheets, please visit our MSDS search site

Metallic Gray

• Sales code R3950
• Revision Date 20190721

Other information

• Is my new antifouling compatible?

Application guide

• English – Antifoulings and the environment including tear-out maintenance Guide
• English – Lakeland boating brochure

Suggested protective equipment

• Protective equipment overview

Advice on how to avoid problems

• Solve common problems

Check if this product is compatible with your current antifouling product

Simply use this tool to check compatibility with the antifouling product you already have on your hull. If you need any assistance, feel free to contact us for support.

Related products

Fiberglass Surface Prep

Removes contamination to the fiberglass bottom of new boats or unpainted hulls to aid adhesion.

InterProtect 2000E

Specially formulated with Microplates®, it protects fiberglass hulls from water absorption, which can lead to osmotic blistering.

Special Thinner 216

A fast evaporating solvent which improves paint drying in cold climates and makes spray application easier.

Although every effort has been made to ensure the colors on screen are as close as possible to actual paint colors, we cannot guarantee an exact color match. Paint swatch colors will vary depending on your screen settings and resolution. The manufacturer cannot be responsible for slight variations.

• Metallic Gray R3950

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bottoms, foils and finishes

One of our newest advertisers, Waterline Systems , shares some pretty good bottom and foil info right here.

When resins cure, they shrink. This is an inescapable fact of composite boatbuilding. Of the preva lent resin systems, epoxy shrinks the least, polyester the most and vinylester is somewhere in the  middle.  

The mold can be perfectly fair, but as the resin shrinks within the matrix, some areas end up low  and others slightly high. This is not a manufacturing defect, but an unavoidable property of the  materials used.  

Fair vs. smooth  

Many sailors mistake smoothness for fairness. We see people at regattas compounding, buffing and  waxing their bottoms. They may be pretty proud of their obviously un-fair bottom. Fairness and  smoothness are different things, with fairness being by far the more important in terms of speed.  

Water flowing around a hull does not like to change direction. Highs and lows in your hull surface  force the water to make a rapid direction change. This leads to a dramatic increase in drag. We  aren’t making this up! Julian Bethwaite, the designer of the 49er ran full-size in the water tests  between a faired 49er and a 49er fresh from the mold. Incredible as it seems, he found a 14% differ ence between the faired and un-faired hulls. He published his findings in Seahorse Magazine.  

Smoothness  

Sailors grossly over-estimate the value of smoothness. At the speeds we deal with on keelboats a  400 – 600 grit finish is all you need. It is not until speeds roll into the 30 and 40-knot range that  smoother finishes add any benefit. Even at high speeds it’s good to note that the BMW Oracle AC  Cat actually spent vast sums to carefully introduce roughness to the hulls via the 3M Riblet film.  

Keel and Rudder fairing. Science and art  

Keel and rudder fairing is substantially more complicated than bottom fairing. With the bottom we  are only concerned with drag reduction. Keels and rudders both need to generate lift as well.  Highs and lows are still vitally important, but now we add the need for a very precise shape.  

Choosing the proper foils shape is the science part of the equation. Waterline Systems works  closely with some of the world’s foremost hydrodynamic engineers and Naval Architects to help us  determine the correct shape. We need to balance lift/drag, pressure distribution and the limitations  imposed by class rules.  

With the science in hand, art takes over. Actually getting the foil to the designed shape is pure art.  Our team will fair more keels in a year than most yards do in a lifetime. Even with that level of  experience, Company founder/President Randy Borges is still hands-on with each keel fairing pro ject. 

‘ Club Racer’ / “Grand Prix’ – What’s the difference  

Waterline Systems offers 2 basic levels of fairing service. Time is the difference. Block sanding is  the time consuming part of the job. With every block-sanding pass, the surface gets a bit fairer. In  a Grand Prix job, we do an additional few steps; filling with epoxies, and spend additional time  block sanding.  

The Club Racer bottom is really, really good. The Grand Prix bottom is better!  

What is the ‘maintenance/ scuff and shoot’ bottom?  

Over time, bottom paint loses its potency and epoxy primer gets a bit tired. Boats with our bottoms  tend to get wet sanded a lot and eventually the paint just gets thin. The scuff and shoot is a re fresher. Since we know what is on the bottom, we can block sand the existing paint, re-shoot and  then wet sand. The scuff and shoot gives you an extra fairing pass, and your bottom comes out bet ter than ever!  

What is the ‘Cruising / Daysailor’ Bottom?  

We’ve heard from plenty of customers who don’t race but still want a higher quality bottom paint  job than they can typically get at their local boat yard. We sand, apply Interprotect 2000, sand and  prep that then spray your choice of anti-fouling. The bottom will get a bit fairer, but we aren’t  spending our time or your money aiming for fairness. A sprayed application of bottom paint is a  whole lot smoother than a roller job!  

What’s up with the hard line at the waterline?  

There is a definite line, almost a ridge where the bottom job ends. We position this several inches  above the static waterline. This really bugs some people but it shouldn’t. Even immersed, this line  is in the very top layer of the water. This area is really turbulent and actually mostly bubbles. The  smart guys tell us that it makes zero difference to boat speed and may actually create lift going up  wind like a chine. Hum? Maybe that makes sense? Anyway live with it.  

Materials  

The materials we use are expensive. We occasionally hear from clients inquiring if we can use less  expensive stuff. There are a few good reasons that we don’t: First, in the overall project, materials  are a small percentage. Labor makes up the vast majority of the total. Second, we know they work.  We stand behind our work and our suppliers stand behind their products and in the end, you win.  

What products do you use?  

Below the waterline, we exclusively stick with the AkzoNobel line of Interlux products. This in cludes solvents, epoxy fillers, barrier coat, primer and anti fouling coatings. Our manufacturing  reps all shy away from the word paint these days. Modern coating systems (that’s what they call  ‘em) are all designed to work together on a chemistry level. While most of us muddled through re medial chemistry classes. They have PhDs. It’s smarter for us to do what they say works! And they  stand behind our applications.  

Above the waterline we use Awlgrip, which is also from the AkzoNobel product line. After about 25  years, Awlgrip has really earned our trust. It can be difficult to work with, but we have the experi ence needed and it simply gives our customers the best finish and is the most durable product on  the market.  

   Bottom Paints  

What are our options on bottom paints?  

Dry sailed Boats  

For dry sailed boats we specify VC Performance epoxy. This is a white epoxy paint, which cures  extremely hard. For our purposes, harder is better. A hard paint allows us to wet sand to the very  best possible finish. The label on the can says “With Teflon!” This can confuse people into thinking  that it has some anti-fouling properties— it doesn’t!  

VC Performance epoxy is legal in both the US and Canada.  

Wet sailed boats- Salt Water  

Baltoplate – Baltoplate is our default choice for a racing antifouling paint. We feel that it cures the  hardest and gives the best wet-sanded finish. It comes in one color and honestly; it’s not the best  anti-fouling going but it sands smooth.  

VC Offshore – Interlux claims this is essentially the same paint as Baltoplate. Our wet sanders  swear it is just as hard as Baltoplate. It does come in different colors (Red, Blue & Black) both are  legal in Canada.  

Even though these products are “anti-fouling” Most racers find that they need to clean the bottom  weekly or bi-weekly.  

Wet sailed boats- Fresh Water  

For boats to be wet sailed in fresh water we like VC-17. It seems to have the best anti-fouling prop erties in fresh water. VC-17 is an extremely thin film. This makes it difficult to wet sand without  burn through. It also makes it single season paint.  

Legal in the US and Canada  

I want a white racing bottom.  

If you really need a white antifouling racing finish, Interlux “Trilux” is about the only thing we will  recommend. We have used Petit Vivid with limited success and experimented with all the E-Paint.  Trilux provides good antifouling characteristics Ever since tin was banned in the 80’s there simply   isn’t a white anti-fouling paint that is great for racing. Truth be told, no one misses Micron 33. It  was plain nasty stuff.  

Ablative paints 

Waterline Systems does not recommend any ablative paints for a racing finish. These paints work  by being really soft, and effectively slowly ablating off during the course of a season. Because they  are soft, they don’t sand well. That and the fact they need to go on thick, just can’t add up to a rac ing finish.  

For a cruising or day-sailing finish, they’re just fine. 

Maintaining your Waterline Systems finish  

Dry sailed boats  

VC-Performance epoxy is the hardest and most durable paint we use. Still, you can mess it up! The  most important thing is to keep it clean. Every time you haul, go over the bottom with a hose and a  soft sponge, cloth or one of the soft brushes made for topsides. Don’t ever use a scrubber pad or  abrasive cleaners. Use dish soap to clean.  

After a road trip you may find little hunks of tar, or diesel soot. The bug and tar remover available  at you auto parts store will take this off with a soft rag.  

Polishing – Don’t do it! Don’t put any type of wax or polish on your bottom. It will not make you  faster, but may prevent us from being able to do a proper ‘scuff and shoot’ somewhere down the  road. Epoxy sticks to lots of stuff, but not wax or Teflon!  

Wet sailed boats  

Bottom Cleaning  

We see divers using abrasive cleaning pads or sandpaper on a perfectly finished WLS bottom.  “Hint” don’t hire that guy. Whether you do it your self, or hire a diver, make sure that the only  thing that touches your bottom is a soft rag or sponge nothing more abrasive than the 600grit it  was polished with. More frequent light cleaning is far preferable to letting things get out of control  and then falling for the temptation to use something abrasive. If this happens go back to the section  on (Scuff and Shoot)  

Seasonal Maintenance  

The hard anti-fouling paints we use need to be immersed to keep their effectiveness. When they’re  exposed to air, the very top layer oxidizes and ‘locks in’ the poison. We apply the paint nice and  thick and it’s nice and hard. This means that if you wet sand the boat right before spring launch ing, you remove the oxidized layer and expose fresh poison. Most of our clients get 3-5 seasons be fore needing to re-spray.  

Wet sanding  

If you are going to wet sand your own bottom here are some tips to keep you from wrecking your  investment:  

Equipment needed:  

Sanding Block – You need an 8-inch rubber sanding block. These are available at you local auto body  supply store. They take 1/3 of a sheet of sandpaper, lengthwise .  

Squeegee – An auto windshield squeegee with a sponge on one side and the squeegee on the other is  just the ticket. (Auto body supply or at your local gas pump)  

Big Bucket – You need a bucket big enough for the squeegee to fit in. (5 gallon)  

Dish Soap – We add dish soap to our sanding water. This both acts as a lubricant and keeps the  water film on the surface longer. 

Sandpaper- Cheap sandpaper is really expensive. Buy it by the sleeve and plan on using lots more 

than you think .  

Technique  

Like a lot of things, there’s a lot more to wet sanding than you think.  

Fill your bucket with CLEAN water (We only use Perrier) and add a good squirt of soap. Dunk  your squeegee in and wet down the hull using the sponge end. Always wet sand fore and aft and  use full strokes. Hold the block with both hands. The objective is to remove a tiny, uniform layer of  paint. If you sit and whale on one spot, you are just making a hollow!  

Use the sponge side of the squeegee to wet the hull, and then use the squeegee side to wipe the wa ter and floating dust away. This will help you determine where you have been and what you still  need to hit.  

Change your paper frequently. I see amateurs with 4 or 5 scraps of paper laying under the boat at  the end of a session. At the shop, there is a blizzard of paper. When you drop your block, don’t just  pick it up and start sanding with it! Take the paper off and rinse it well. A tiny piece of gravel will  make mincemeat of your bottom.  

Stay an inch or two away from any edges; stem, transom corner, the centerline ridge and keel trail ing edge. It is way too easy to apply too much pressure on the edges and burn through the paint. If  you burn through, you need to touch up with more paint and that is going to be a big hassle. Come  back to all your edges and delicately hand sand and follow with a couple quick/light passes with the  block.  

Remember a few paragraphs ago when we were talking about wetsanding your Baltoplate or  VCOffshore to expose fresh poison. We weren’t kidding. Antifouling paint is considered a pesticide.  Keep the stuff off you. Gloves, goggles, tyvek suit. Don’t eat lunch, drink a beer or even smoke be fore you’ve cleaned yourself up completely. Material Safety Data Sheets are available online.

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Boats & Bottom Paint: 15 Quick Answers (For Beginners)

Often when boaters gather for cocktails, the conversation drifts to bottom paint.

This is one of the more costly and frustrating items of boat maintenance, but with proper knowledge, the right bottom paint can be found for your boat.

Table of Contents

1. What is the Purpose of Bottom Paint?

Bottom paint, often called antifouling paint, is formulated to keep marine growth from forming on the bottom of your hull.

This growth can be stringy or slimy green algae or even hard barnacles attached for the free ride.

All growth causes loss of performance and excess fuel costs, and it looks disgusting!

2. How Does Bottom Paint Work?

Bottom paint contains Copper or Tin compounds that are actually poisonous to marine organisms.

Due to the potential to contaminate waterways, there are now bottom paints without heavy metals that use other chemicals to inhibit marine growth. Tin has now been outlawed in the US and other countries.

That leaves Copper and Copper-free formulas.

3. What Are the Different Types of Bottom Paint?

The two basic categories are ablative and hard bottom paints.

Ablative bottom paints slowly wash away as the boat moves or sits in the water. They act like a slowly melting bar of soap. By ablating, they shed some paint along with marine growth.

These paints also have Copper and other chemicals that inhibit growth. By ablating away, they expose fresh layers of paint with fresh chemical compounds.

Do some research among paint manufacturers; there are hard and soft ablative paints.

The soft is more effective in inhibiting growth but doesn’t last as long as harder compounds.

Ablative Paints Are:

• Easy to apply by roller, even over older ablative bottom paint that has been thoroughly cleaned.
• Cost is slightly lower than hard paints.
• The hull bottom stays clean without scrubbing, as long as the paint is not used up.
• It can wash away too quickly, requiring more paint to remain effective.
• They are usually thick and do not provide a slick, smooth hull finish.

Hard bottom paints contain Copper compounds like ablative paints but are thinner, longer-lasting paints. They are designed to be effective for several years and not wear away as quickly.

Hard Paints Are:

• More demanding of surface preparation. All old paint, especially ablative paint, must be removed.
• Require scrubbing, about once/month, to remove marine growth and expose more chemical compounds.
• More costly to buy and apply than ablative paints.
• Provide a smoother, slicker bottom finish for higher performance.

4. What’s the Best Bottom Paint?

That’s a favorite topic in sailor’s bars.

There is no simple answer but let’s look at some guidelines:

Most Important: What’s Under your Bottom Paint?

Fiberglass boats have an outer surface of tough gelcoat.

This is sprayed in the mold before laying up the fiberglass. Gelcoat does absorb a small amount of water.

Therefore, multiple coats are necessary for a water barrier between you and the gelcoat. A good practice is to alternate the coats with gray and white 2000e so you can see in the future how far you have sanded through your barrier coat.

The barrier coat must be sanded before applying bottom paint to have proper adhesion. A sanded barrier coat is the perfect primer for any bottom paint.

Watch Out for Blistering:

Older boats and some newer ones suffer from osmotic blistering of the gelcoat.

This occurs when water absorbs through the gelcoat into the first layers of fiberglass. The water can actually build up pressure that pops the gelcoat up like a blister.

Any boat that has osmotic blistering requires serious, remedial work.

The blisters must be removed by grinding or sandblasting. After the hull is completely dry, the blisters are filled with an epoxy filler and sanded smooth.

To prevent future blistering, layers of epoxy barrier coat must be applied. Interlux 2000e works well.

Fresh Water Boats Have Limited Choices for Bottom Paint:

One choice instead of using bottom paint is to use a boat lift or dry storage.

If not, Interlux VC17 and Petit SR21 work fairly well and are easy to apply.

• They are skinny, so they tend to give a smooth finish.
• They require scrubbing every month, more frequently for racing boats.

Ablative bottom paints work fairly well, too. If they don’t effectively inhibit growth, they will ablate off to remove the growth along with a fraction of the paint.

Salt Water Presents More Challenges:

There is a greater variety of organisms in saltwater that like to hitchhike on your hull.

Warmer water temperatures also accelerate growth.

• Talk with other boaters in your area. Find out what works best.
• Consider how often you will pull your boat out of the water for cleaning or repainting.
• Consider the added expense of hard paint if you can easily snorkel or dive to clean your boat bottom.

5. Can I Apply my Own Bottom Paint?

Most paints have explicit instructions for the DIY boater.

As always, follow the manufacturer’s instructions, but here are valuable tips on a successful bottom job:

• All bottom paints require a sound base to adhere to.
• You don’t want delays in your project.
• There are a lot of solids that need to be dispersed in the paint.
• Temperature and humidity must be within the manufacturer’s specifications. Of course, rain can make a mess of a bottom job.
• Applying thick coats in succession can entrap solvents and cause the paint to remain soft.
• There is nothing worse than a perfect bottom finish marred by lift slings or trailer pads.
• Plan on a week to clean, sand, and apply bottom paint.

6. What Colors are Available in Bottom Paint?

In years past, bottom paint was dull, red copper color.

Now the manufacturers add a variety of tints. Some are quite vivid (Micron Vivid), but most turn a dull color when exposed to water.

All look bad when covered with marine growth, but black seems to hide the appearance of marine growth the best.

7. How About Bottom Paint Safety?

Bottom paints contain chemicals poisonous to marine growth.

They are also toxic to humans and animals.

Sanding old bottom paint is especially dangerous. Wear protective clothing and breathing devices!

There are often environmental regulations regarding sanding, washing, and applying bottom paint. Ask at your boatyard to be sure you comply.

We do not want to pollute the beautiful waters we enjoy on our boats .

8. How Much Bottom Paint will I Need?

Manufacturer’s websites help estimate how much you should buy.

Be aware that some paints have a shelf life. Don’t buy extra that might expire before you re-paint.

We used four quarts of VC17 or SR21 on our 28-foot sailboat in Lake Michigan. We now live aboard a 42-foot sailboat and use four gallons to re-paint.

9. How Long will the Bottom Paint Last?

The goal for most boats that stay in the water year-round is two years.

Our experience is that performance is poor during the second year; we have to do a lot of scrubbing. Boats that are used during only a summer season can often go two years on a bottom job. Some routinely put on a fresh coat every year.

Some hard bottom paints like Coppercoat can last 10 years. This is a highly specialized, epoxy/copper paint that must be applied with care. I saw a boat out of the water that sailed with Coppercoat for two years, and the bottom looked like new.

The owner said they do have to clean the bottom every month, though.

Petit Trinidad SR can last several years but, again, needs monthly scrubbing.

10. What’s New in Bottom Paint?

Copper-free bottom paints have emerged on the market to be more friendly to the environment.

Some contain non-metallic biocides. One unique paint is Epaint, EP 2000. This water-based paint forms a layer of Ozone when in the water. This Ozone is toxic to all marine growth but has no lasting pollutants.

We used it on the keel and rudder of a racing boat, and it stayed immaculate all summer.

It just rolled on like house paint. However, it wasn’t easy to sand to a smooth, racing finish.

11. What’s the Best Bottom Paint for Speed?

The simple answer is “none” because your boat’s factory gelcoat finish is probably smoother than any bottom paint.

If racing performance is the goal, wet sand the gelcoat and keeps cleaning the bottom or hauling between races. We did this for years with our 28-foot race boat, Veloce. We would haul the boat on the yacht club crane and scrub before every race.

It took only ½ hour, and we always had the confidence of a perfect bottom.

For boats that must have an antifouling paint, hard paints are the fastest.

They can be wet sanded to be almost as smooth as gelcoat. Ablative paints, sloppily applied, look like roofing tar. But if applied with care, it can provide a smooth finish.

Remember, any marine growth will be slow, regardless of the type of paint. Antifouling paint will help with boat speed and fuel savings.

12. How Much Does it Cost to Have the Boat Professionally Painted?

There are a lot of factors involved in the cost.

Bottom cleaning and sanding, type of paint, cost to haul and launch the boat, and boat size contribute to cost.

As a rough average, bottom jobs can cost from $20/lineal foot to over $100/lineal foot. We do most of our own work on Uproar, our 42-foot sailboat, but we have had quotes as high as $5,000 for the entire project!

We do our own painting on Uproar. The cost of hauling, bottom washing, bottom sanding, a week in the yard, and relaunching is under $2,000.

The cost of paint is usually $600. By applying the paint ourselves, we save a lot.

13. Are There Special Concerns for Aluminum or Steel Boats?

Yes, any two different metals can cause corrosion.

Proper epoxy barrier coats can prevent the problem, but the manufacturer’s specifications must be followed.

The new, copper-free paints are ideal for Aluminum or Steel hulls.

14. Is There a Bottom Paint for Pontoon Boats?

Epaint even makes a special formula for aluminum pontoon boats.

They also make paint for inflatable dinghies.

15. Where Do I Start?

Talk with other boaters in your location.

Talk with boatyards and charter fleets. You will get a variety of opinions but can determine what would work best for your boat.

If you plan to start living aboard your boat, raise the waterline and paint higher on your hull. Your additional cargo will sink your boat deeper in the water.

Plan your project. Assemble all materials, tools, and protective safety clothing. Prepare a workspace where you won’t accidentally paint your friend’s BMW (ask me how I know). Get help from friends who boat with you.

Wait for the proper weather and be sure to allow proper drying time.

No matter how well you apply your bottom paint, plan on some periodic hull cleaning. This is one project that, if left too long, becomes a nightmare of barnacles and algae.

A clean bottom is essential for boat performance and getting the most enjoyment out of your boating lifestyle.

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BOTTOM PAINTING

As a boat owner, getting dragged to the depths of the ocean by a giant sea monster is probably not high on your list of concerns. But make no mistake, there are some very foul creatures lurking beneath the waves.

We’re talking microscopic sea monsters: acorn barnacles, zebra mussels and slime-causing bacteria that cause serious hull drag, and wallet drain from higher fuel costs and repair bills.

You may not even know they’re there until it’s too late because they don’t come at you flailing ferocious tentacles, at least not ones you can see. What you will see—and want to prevent—is the ugly, dirty, slimy mess they make on the bottom of your hull that decreases your speed and increases your fuel bill because your engine has to work harder. A fouled hull bottom is also a safety risk because it can decrease your ability to maneuver.

Battle the barnacles and other biofouling bottom huggers with the right bottom paint for smoother sailing.

Choosing an Antifouling Bottom Paint

Location, location, location, types of antifouling bottom paint, which bottom paint is best for your boat, figuring how much paint you need, how to strike a waterline on your boat, bottom painting equipment, surface prep for bottom painting, best conditions for bottom painting, bottom painting like a pro.

The purpose of applying antifouling bottom paint is to prevent hard biofouling organisms like mussels, barnacles, and tubeworms, and soft growth like weeds and algae (slime!) from attaching to your hull below the waterline.

There are several different antifouling coatings available, with new ones being formulated all the time, making it very difficult to choose the paint that’s right for your boat and your budget. Some coatings work better in different locations, including fresh or salt water. Some are more environmentally friendly than others, and some cost more based on the type of biocide and the protection they provide.

The key antifouling ingredient in bottom paint is some type of biocide for deterring hard marine growth. Some antifouling paints also include an algaecide for preventing soft growth.

Biocide basics : For centuries, some form of copper has been used successfully to prevent the attachment of barnacles and other marine growth on hull bottoms. Today, the type of copper most commonly contained in antifouling paint is either cuprous oxide or cuprous thiocyanate. Cuprous thiocyanate has the added benefits of being a lighter copper in terms of color, so it produces brighter, truer paint colors. Also, paints using cuprous thiocyanate use half the amount of copper used in conventional, heavier cuprous oxide paints.

Because copper in the concentrations used in antifouling paints is a potential threat to some marine ecosystems, there are now equally effective, eco-friendly, antifouling paints that contain a metal-free biocide called Econea™ (main ingredient is tralopyril). Econea’s main benefit is that it dissolves after it is shed into the water, leaving no byproduct to harm marine life. Its secondary benefit is that it allows for the creation of brightly colored paints, unlike bottom paints containing cuprous oxide as the biocide.

Algaecide basics: If you use your boat in an area where slime, algae, and grass growth on the bottom of your hull are common, you need an antifouling paint that also contains an algaecide to prevent this soft growth. In the past, some antifouling paints contained an algaecide called Irgarol, which is no longer being used. Irgarol was discontinued because of its persistence after release into the water, and harmful effects on marine life. Zinc pyrithione (Zinc Omadine™) is now the slime-fighting agent used in many antifouling bottom paints. Its effectiveness is similar to Irgarol, but it dissipates quickly and harmlessly into marine or fresh water ecosystems. Zinc pyrithione is found in chemical solvent-based and water-based antifouling marine paints.

Chemical solvent-based or water-based antifouling paint? Another consideration is the type of solvent in the paint. Solvents keep the biocide, algaecide (if included), and pigment suspended in the paint so they’re distributed evenly in the coating as it’s applied to the hull surface. In the past, most antifouling paints contained harsh chemical solvents, and required the use of chemical solvents for thinning and cleanup. Those harsh chemical solvents contain toxic VOCs (volatile organic compounds) that evaporate easily into the atmosphere. To help meet environmental regulations in some areas of the country, and the world, there are now water-based paints, that also use water for thinning and cleanup. Many of these water-based antifouling paints contain the biocide Econea, and zinc pyrithione as the algaecide, because both dissolve in the water after release.

Won’t a water-based antifouling paint just dissolve and leave the hull unprotected while the boat is in the water? : The short answer is no. As the water-based paint cures, the water evaporates, leaving behind a protective film of biocide and/or algaecide, and pigment.

Teflon and vinyl bottom paints : Teflon paints are expensive, dry quickly, cure to a very thin film, and are ideal for fresh water areas where algae is a problem. Vinyl bottom paints are hard bottom paints that can be burnished smooth for racing, and are especially effective in saltwater, though not as effective as ablative paints for battling biofouling organisms. Both Teflon and vinyl bottom paints are used more to enhance performance, as in race boats, instead of antifouling.

Proprietary two-part bottom coatings : These products are new and expensive, using patented chemical formulas to create a hard and very slippery biofilm that doesn’t allow living organisms to attach to the boat.

Deciding on bottom paint is a regional, sometimes section-of-the-harbor-specific choice. It’s based on lots of variables like water temperature, silt, substrate, pollution, water flow, biofouling organisms present, and the frequency and type of boating you do.

Making that choice is made even harder because a bottom paint that works in one part of the harbor may not be as effective a few hundred yards away in that same harbor–even on the same type of boat.

The general consensus is there’s more fouling activity in warmer water and still water, and less growth in water that’s colder or where there’s more current flowing beneath the hull. It’s also harder for biofoulers to attach to a moving target, so the more you use your boat, the cleaner the bottom should remain.

At any rate, it’s always a good idea to ask fellow boaters and local boatyard professionals to help pinpoint paints that work best where your boat floats.

Bottom paints are usually one of two types: hard or ablative, with variations whose effectiveness depends on how much time the boat spends in the water, and how often it moves.

Hard bottom paints are typically less expensive than ablative antifouling paints. However, hard paints are effective for a single season, and they build up season after season, eventually requiring costly removal. Ablative paints come in single-season and multiseason varieties and don’t build up.

Hard bottom paint dries hard, stays that way, and doesn’t wear away gradually like an ablative paint. It works constantly while the boat is in the water, regardless of whether the boat is moving, and stops working once all its copper biocide gradually leaches out. So the coating can still be in great shape, but the biocide is gone and so is the protection. Water can seep in to the unprotected coating and damage the hull. Also, because hard bottom paint doesn’t wear away, it builds up and eventually has to be removed–a costly, labor-intensive endeavor.

Another problem for hard bottom paints is they lose their copper faster–and their effectiveness–if the boat is kept out of the water more than 60 days after applying bottom paint. For this reason, hard bottom paint is typically used on boats that remain in the water for extended periods. It’s also great for boats operated at faster speeds, like racing boats, because it can be burnished to increase hull smoothness and speed, unlike ablative bottom paints.

Ablative bottom paint wears away gradually as water flows under the hull, either from use or tidal movements. As the paint wears away, it exposes a fresh burst of biocide to keep biofoulers from attaching to the surface. There are ablative paints for multiple season use, and others that are effective for a single season. The single-season ablatives are typically less expensive than the multiple season ablatives.

For most ablative paints to work effectively, motion is required, so this paint is best if you use your boat fairly often–at least once a week. A hull painted with a single-season ablative antifouling paint can be pulled and left out of the water up to two weeks, but will require a light scuffing with a Scotch-Brite pad to reactivate the antifouling properties directly prior to launching.

A hull coated with a multi-season ablative can be pulled and left out of the water up to two weeks, without scuffing to reactivate the antifouling. However, after two weeks, scuffing is required directly before launching.

Self-polishing, copolymer ablative bottom paint also wears away gradually to expose fresh layers of biocide. However, it’s effective whether or not the boat is moving because it uses a self-polishing, controlled-release, copper copolymer formula. Some copolymer ablatives can last multiple seasons, requiring only a light scuffing to reactivate the antifouling in the spring, directly before launching.

Hybrid copolymer ablative bottom paint has all the self-polishing, controlled-release biocide benefits of a copolymer ablative. The difference is that it can also be burnished–like a hard bottom paint–for smoothness and speed, unlike other ablative bottom paints. And there’s less buildup to remove next season, as with hard bottom paints.

Preventing biofouling is not a one-shot-and-you’re-done deal, and no bottom paint is best for every boat. Your decision depends on answers to these practical questions.

What type of hull do you have? Most bottom paints contain copper as their antifouling biocide, which is fine for wooden, and fiberglass/gelcoat hulls, but causes galvanic corrosion, which will destroy a pontoon boat or an aluminum hull. For use on aluminum hulls, aluminum bottom paint typically uses a copper-free biocide such as Econea. Underwater metals such as outdrives and trim tabs also need this metal-free antifouling paint. And don’t forget the bottom of your inflatable, it needs protection, too. Inflatable bottom paint is ablative, so it wears away gradually, and is designed not to crack or peel while the boat is being rolled up, or after drying. What kind of water is your boat sitting in, and what’s the water temperature? In terms of temperature, biofouling levels are typically higher in warmer waters than cooler waters. Fresh water biofouling, while not as severe as saltwater (marine) biofouling, still poses problems which are compounded if the water is brackish or polluted. By far the biggest challenge comes from hard, marine biofouling organisms such as zebra mussels and barnacles, which destroy the hull surface and allow moisture in, causing blistering and other expensive damage. If moderate to heavy fouling is a problem in your region, you might consider a bottom paint that offers greater protection and lets you haul and relaunch without repainting, such as a multi-season paint. In lower fouling waters, you can get adequate single-season protection from a more economical bottom paint . The copper biocide (cuprous oxide or cuprous thiocyanate) or copper-free biocide (Econea) in these paints is designed primarily to combat hard shell marine growth. If slime is a problem in your area, use a slime-shedding bottom paint boosted with a slime-fighting agent (zinc pyrithione) that controls slime growth at the waterline. How and when do you use your boat? For example, do you trailer your boat? If so, you should use a harder ablative bottom paint that can withstand trailering. Do you race it or just like to go fast? Try a hybrid copolymer ablative that allows you to burnish the surface, and provides good single or multiple season protection. Do you go out every weekend? Every day? Do you want to be able to do your bottom painting at the end of the season so you’re ready to launch first thing in the spring? At TotalBoat, we’re DIY boaters that create products to suit every type of use in all types of waters. Do you live in an area that restricts the use of solvent and copper-based bottom paints? To address ever-increasing environmental regulations, some ablative bottom paints are now water-based and/or copper-free, containing an environmentally friendly biocide called Econea™, and fewer volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Other water-based ablatives contain copper for added antifouling protection, but offer easy soap and water cleanup. How much money do you want to spend on bottom painting? With bottom paint, usually the more biocide, or different types of biocide, the greater the cost. Also certain properties, like self-polishing, single or multi-season effectiveness, or slime-fighting ability, require the inclusion of certain additives, which can increase the cost. If you don’t need it, you shouldn’t have to pay for it, which is why we created a complete line of bottom paints to balance every boater’s needs and budget.

Figuring out the approximate surface area (in square feet) of your hull below the waterline is a good way to determine the amount of bottom paint you’ll need. Here’s an easy formula to use:

Length x Beam x .85

How heavily you apply the bottom paint is another factor in determining the quantity. The amounts below assume you want to coat the surface as thickly as possible without causing runs, and that you are applying two coats. For specific quantities, always refer to the manufacturer’s details on coverage areas.

Applying two coats of bottom paint up to the old waterline is a fairly straightforward task–if you know where the waterline is. Sometimes the line gets covered up by topside coatings, or it needs to be raised as the boat gets outfitted for cruising. Or you may have a new boat and need to find the waterline. Here’s a simple way to mark the waterline on your boat in preparation for bottom painting.

What You’ll Need for Bottom Painting

The safest and best way to do a DIY bottom paint job involves applying the paint with a brush or roller. Due to the substantial toxic hazards, spraying is not recommended.

If using a solvent-based antifouling paint, it’s important to use solvent-resistant roller covers, brushes, and paint trays and liners because the solvents in bottom paint are strong enough to dissolve regular household-type versions of these painting tools.

• Personal protection for sanding – paint suit with hood , goggles, and a respirator with appropriate cartridges, and gloves
• If bottom paint is cracking and peeling or otherwise requires removal (as in the case of hard bottom paint) use chemical stripper to remove it. Our TotalBoat TotalStrip paint remover is safe for gelcoat and fiberglass, and it’s easy to apply, odor-free, biodegradable, can strip up to 25 layers in a single application, requires no acid wash neutralization, and cleans up easily with just plain water. It’s also very effective on bottom paint.
• If previous bottom paint is in good condition and not too thick (only a couple of previous coats), you don’t need to sand it down, just scuff it up using a clean, maroon Scotch-Brite pad
• Paint scraper for removing loose or chipping antifouling paint to clean up the hull bottom before sanding
• When sanding down old bottom paint, use 80-grit large diameter sanding disks and a right angle grinder or dustless sander (recommended). 80-grit paper is the most common grit for sanding antifouling paint. Always use a dustless sander to keep the toxic antifouling paint sanding residue contained.
• Masking tape – solvent and water-resistant tape is ideal for lengthy bottom painting jobs that require two coats. This clean-release masking tape lifts off easily, leaving no gummy residue.
• Scratch-free cleaning and wiping rags and acetone or mineral spirits for removing surface dust and residue
• Solvent-resistant paint brush or 3/8" nap roller, paint tray and liner, plus small-width chip brushes for cutting in
• Drop cloths for any sanding debris, and for catching paint drips and spills

To ensure the best possible bond and the most effective antifouling results, take time to assess the type and amount of surface preparation needed. Typically, most ablative bottom paints can be applied over hard paints, but not the other way around. Also most other antifouling paints can’t be painted over vinyl or Teflon bottom paints. Incompatible paints must be removed first. Substrate matters, too, so for example, if you’re painting on steel or aluminum, check that you coat the surface with an appropriate metal primer first. Incompatible bottom paint or previous bottom paint that is extremely deteriorated should be stripped first. Use a chemical stripper that works with bottom paint to remove it. If you stripped the old antifouling and found hull damage or damage to the barrier coat, or if you’re painting a new boat for the first time, you’ll need to apply an epoxy barrier coat before applying bottom paint.

Cleaning Tips

In many cases, you’ll be painting over a previous bottom paint job that’s in good condition, so you don’t need to strip the paint or sand. Just chip away any loose paint with a paint scraper or putty knife, then abrade with a medium-grade 3M ScotchBrite pad, then wipe the surface with a clean, lint-free cheesecloth, rag, or tack cloth dampened with acetone or mineral spirits (or thinner recommended by the paint manufacturer) to remove residual dust and grease, let dry, then apply masking tape.

Sanding Tips

If you need to sand, sanding makes a mess, so first lay down some drop cloths under and around your work area. Sanding bottom paint also creates toxic dust, so use a dustless sander. And protect your exposed eyes, skin, and lungs with high-quality protective equipment before you begin sanding.

Masking Tips

For the cleanest line, try to position the tape as close to the bootstripe as you can, beginning at a natural start point in the line. Draw the tape out slowly, outlining every 1.5 to 2 feet. In addition, mask around underwater metals to protect them from contact with any copper-based antifouling paint.

Use 80-grit sandpaper to sand the entire bottom to smooth it out and remove any high or uneven spots. Sand lightly so you don’t sand through a protective barrier coat or damage gelcoat. After sanding, wipe down the surface using the solvent recommended by the bottom paint manufacturer.

After masking, and before painting, wipe the surface with a clean, lint-free cloth to remove any residual dust or dirt.

Getting great performance from your antifouling paint takes more than just completing the surface prep properly so the paint has every chance to bond mechanically and chemically to the hull. You also have to apply the paint when the timing is right in terms of temperature and humidity.

Resist the urge to start painting until temperatures are between 50°-85°F and the humidity is between 65 and 90%, or according to the manufacturer’s specifications. Be patient and wait for the weather to cooperate. You’ll be rewarded not just with optimal antifouling effectiveness, but with better looking, longer lasting results.

Before you start, pay attention to the dry time between coats and the recommended number of coats, as indicated by the manufacturer. Also, be sure to check if there are any maximum limits on the amount of time the boat can remain out of the water after bottom painting and prior to launch. For example, copolymer ablative paints dry faster, which means their overcoating times are shorter. They also have longer or unlimited launch windows.

Once you know the characteristics of your coating, and you’re ready to paint, here are some tips to expedite the process.

• To make it easier to get as much copper off the bottom of the can and into the paint, take it to a paint shop and have it shaken first. This will make it easier for you to stir the paint thoroughly.
• Do not thin bottom paint or it will lose its antifouling effectiveness.
• Use a solvent-resistant brush or 3/8" nap roller to apply paint thickly, without drips, onto the hull. Keep the thickness even, and paint from one end of the boat to the other.
• Because ablative paints wear away faster in areas of greatest turbulence, apply extra coats to these places such as the leading edge of the keel and the bow.
• Remember to paint underwater metals such as transducers, with a copper-free antifouling paint that will not cause galvanic corrosion.
• Recoat based on the manufacturer’s directions for overcoat times. Ensure that the weather conditions are optimal for recoating.
• After the final coat of bottom paint has dried, remove the masking tape slowly and carefully. After cleaning up, be sure to dispose of used solvent and paints properly.

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Fastest bottom paint

• Thread starter william24424
• Start date Feb 1, 2012
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

william24424

What is the fastest bottom paint? My boat is sailed in New England waters, it has an ablative coat, new bottom around 3 years ago. Is it worth it to go hard bottom paint? What is the best ablative coat for racing? The boat is hauled each fall and launched each spring.  

Its tough to call the fast saltwater stuff like Baltoplate antifouling as it requires and endless cleaning program and putting it on smooth enough to be fast is also really labor intensive  

The faster the more maintenance which kind of defeats the purpose.  

VC 17 is fast. I use it in freshwater. The copper additive is highly toxic to sea life (and to you - wear a full respirator mask!). Not sure how it would do in a saltwater environment...  

Fastest would be clean gelcoat! Haul the boat after every race clean and polish the bottom. Don't allow the boat to sit idle in the water between race days. What is the most practical, That is every manufacturers dream.  

william said: What is the fastest bottom paint? My boat is sailed in New England waters, it has an ablative coat, new bottom around 3 years ago. Is it worth it to go hard bottom paint? What is the best ablative coat for racing? The boat is hauled each fall and launched each spring. Click to expand

Baltoplate is by far the fastest if applied 'as smooth as a babies butt' ... and kept that way by wiping or using a squeegee on a long pole, etc. It will keep hard growth under control but does attract 'slime'. Next would be Vc17 'offshore' but its not as hard as Baltoplate but comes 'close'. Any bottom paint containing 'teflon' will be much faster than bare gelcoat because of extremely low coefficient of friction of PTFE and related 'teflonics'.  

Baltoplate Baltoplate is a hard vinyl racing paint that can be wet sanded to whatever level you want for your level of competition. However, you need to start with a smooth bottom with hull to keel joint faired in and the hull itself 'long boarded'. Once you start down the Baltoplate road, you are kind of committed to a very labor intensive installation and wet sanding every season you race. I happen to feel it was worthwhile in the light air of the northern Chesapeake Bay IF you are a serious racer. I used to prep the boat each spring by wet sanding the previous year's coat with 220 wet-or-dry paper before applying the fresh Baltoplate with a foam roller and then wet sanding, 1st with 240 wet-or-dry, then with 320 wet-or-dry.. you cango further but it isn't necesary. You should use a scrubber to clean off the slime before a race. Yes you need decent sails and yes you need to understand sail trim and especially in the Chesapeake, you need to understand local tides and currents. A perfect bottom job leaves you one less excuse to loose. But man is it a lot of work!  

Re: Baltoplate Up at the end where I sail we have five rivers entering the bay with the ebb and flood and wind not often going my way. The water can be as confused as anywhere. If you don't understand all of those factors then (your a**)the condiition of your bottom won't matter very much/  

Helpful input, so now I'm thinking less labor below and more attention to trim & tactics. Which brings me back to best ablative paint for racing, anyone try Micron 66? Interlux? Pettit? or any other recommendations?  

william said: Helpful input, so now I'm thinking less labor below and more attention to trim & tactics. Which brings me back to best ablative paint for racing, anyone try Micron 66? Interlux? Pettit? or any other recommendations? Click to expand

Okay guys, one more comment.... I believe that the fastest surface through the water (or any 'fluid') will not be smooth and shiny. It will be slightly rough - like with 1000 grit wet and dry. The reason is that a shiny (waxed) hull creates more friction because the water cannot stick to it. When the surface is *slightly* (and correctly) porous it allows a very thin (ideally one molecule) layer of water to stick to the hull and therefore the contact made while underway is 'water on water' which has very very low friction... I have seen the same principle used on sails (which is NOT class legal); both with noticeable results... That said, I do agree that knowledge of sail trim, tactics and local conditions probably trumps bottom paint in winning races. That and some luck... P  

tommays said: Its tough to call the fast saltwater stuff like Baltoplate antifouling as it requires and endless cleaning program and putting it on smooth enough to be fast is also really labor intensive Click to expand

[email protected] said: Okay guys, one more comment.... I believe that the fastest surface through the water (or any 'fluid') will not be smooth and shiny. It will be slightly rough - like with 1000 grit wet and dry. The reason is that a shiny (waxed) hull creates more friction because the water cannot stick to it. When the surface is *slightly* (and correctly) porous it allows a very thin (ideally one molecule) layer of water to stick to the hull and therefore the contact made while underway is 'water on water' which has very very low friction... I have seen the same principle used on sails (which is NOT class legal); both with noticeable results... That said, I do agree that knowledge of sail trim, tactics and local conditions probably trumps bottom paint in winning races. That and some luck... P Click to expand

Definitely the development of an intact and extremely thin hydrodynamic boundary layer is important to minimize skin friction (parasitic drag). Such will depend on the absolute smoothness of all leading edges and the smoothness of the hull and rudder ... as Joe stated a careful 'fairing job' on the hull is the 'first' step to insure hull smoothness, followed by NOT using a roller to do a 'slop' bottompaint job. Interestingly, the "fat-assed" newer designs will also better 'hold' that laminar flow than the older style more symmetric (pinched stern) hull which will easily cause the boundary layer to become turbulent/separated near the stern. VC can be 'burnished', using heavy clay-filled 'shiny magazine paper' to 'smear' the coating to a very fine polished finish and one that will fill small irregularities in the surface ... and since you dont 'remove' much by the sanding/polishing process ... its more economical than Baltoplate, and 'almost' as fast. Baltoplate is the proven 'fastest' but as like any fine 'racing bottom' it has to be applied and sanded to absolute perfection ... and must be constantly wiped down before racing. So too, you can put a high polish on the exposed topside and do a final prep by using Teflon laden 'speed waxes' ... Holly Speed Wax is long lasting too. That will add extra 'slippey-ness' to the heeled-over immersed topsides. Sailboat racing is simply a 'game of inches' ... and every 'inch' (by tactics, boat handling, boat speed/hull prep) you save when on the racecourse will enhance your performance and placement ranking.  

When I read "proven fastest" I usually expect documented numbers and conditions or standard conditions and I haven't noticed such in this thread yet. If speed wax helps the ~15% of top side go faster when heeled why not wax the whole thing, or bottom paint the whole thing? Given the same prepeartion and hull what would be the difference between the best paint and the average lower brands if in a straight line comparison over three miles?  

Why not ask the owner of the boat that finishes ahead of you?  

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Best Bottom Paint For Trailered Boats

July 5, 2023

‍ Key Takeaways

• Different boats have different requirements when it comes to bottom paint.
• For example, if you have a high-speed boat, hard paints may be the best option.
• If you’re boating in saltwater, look for paints specifically designed for saltwater use.
• Look for paints that are easy to apply, with minimal prep work required.
• Lastly, follow the manufacturer's instructions for your bottom paint to be effective.

‍ If you're a boat owner, you know that keeping your vessel in tip-top shape is crucial for its longevity, and that also includes choosing the right bottom paint.

The best bottom paints in the market for trailered boats include Sea Hawk AF33, Pettit’s Odyssey Triton Antifouling Paint, and Rust-Oleum 207012 Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint. These antifouling paints are designed to offer long-lasting protection against water and marine growth.

It’s important to note that there are several factors to consider, such as the type of water you'll be boating in, the frequency of use, and the material of your boat. That means that the best bottom paint for your tailored boat might not be the best choice for another owner. That’s why I've tested different paints and done the research for you. I'll be revealing my top picks for the best bottom paints for various trailered boats.

Table of contents

‍ 8 best bottom paint for trailered boats.

As a boat owner, you know how important keeping your vessel in good condition is. One of the most critical aspects of boat maintenance is ensuring that the bottom is protected from marine organisms, including algae and barnacles. This is where quality bottom boat paint comes in.

Using quality boat bottom paint can help prevent marine organisms from attaching to the boat hull. It can also help protect against rust and corrosion caused by saltwater conditions and keep your boat looking great. But with so many options on the market, knowing which one to choose can be challenging.

Here are the top 8 bottom paints for trailered boats:

1. Sea Hawk AF33

When it comes to bottom paints for trailered boats, Sea Hawk AF33 is a popular choice among boaters. This antifouling paint is a self-polishing copolymer ablative finish that is designed to provide long-lasting protection against marine growth and fouling.

Performance

Sea Hawk AF33 is known for its excellent performance in both saltwater and freshwater environments. It’s a hard-modified epoxy that provides a smooth finish and is resistant to abrasion, impact, and chemicals.

The self-polishing feature ensures that your boat maintains a smooth surface, and the paint remains effective throughout the boating season, even when the boat is not in use.

What Sets It Apart

What sets Sea Hawk AF33 apart from other paints is its self-polishing mechanism. This allows it to remain effective throughout the boating season, even when the boat is not in use, so you can use it as a multi-season paint.

• Long-lasting protection against marine growth and fouling
• Smooth finish that is resistant to abrasion, impact, and chemicals
• It has a self-polishing mechanism that ensures the paint remains effective throughout the boating season
• Easy application and quick drying time
• Improved environmental friendliness
• It’s relatively expensive compared to other bottom paints on the market.

Who Should Buy

Boaters who are looking for a high-quality boat bottom paint that provides long-lasting protection against fouling and marine growth should consider Sea Hawk AF33. It’s a great choice for trailered boats and is easy to apply, making it a great option for DIY boats.

Where to Buy

You can purchase Sea Hawk AF33 from a variety of retailers, including Jamestown Distributors .

2. Pettit Odyssey Triton Antifouling Bottom Boat Paint

Pettit’s Odyssey Triton is a top-quality antifouling paint that is perfect for trailered boats. This Pettit marine paint is one of the best boat bottom paints on the market, designed to provide exceptional, multi-season ablative performance, making it a great choice for boaters who want paint that will last for a long time. This boat bottom paint is effective against fouling in the harshest marine environments.

Pettit Odyssey Triton Antifouling Bottom Boat Paint delivers exceptional, multi-season ablative, tri-biocide performance. It combines Copper Thiocyanate with ECONEA® and the versatility of the biocide Zinc Omadine, which is proven for reliability.

This combination makes Pettit Odyssey Triton Antifouling Bottom Boat Paint effective against all types of fouling, including barnacles, algae, and slime.

Pettit Odyssey Triton Antifouling Bottom Boat Paint stands out from other antifouling paints because its trouble-free formula is more dependable and compatible without the challenges associated with old paint.

This paint is also compatible with most paints, making it a great choice for boaters who want to switch to better antifouling paint.

• Exceptional, multi-season ablative performance
• Effective against all types of fouling
• Enhanced HD (Hull Defense) 24-Month Limited Warranty
• Compatible with most bottom paints
• It’s designed with a trouble-free formula that is more dependable and compatible.
• It’s more expensive than other antifouling paints on the market.

Pettit Odyssey Triton Antifouling Bottom Boat Paint is a great choice for boaters who want top-quality antifouling paint that will provide exceptional, multi-season ablative performance.

Pettit Odyssey Triton Antifouling Bottom Boat Paint can be purchased at Jamestown Distributors , a leading supplier of marine products.

3. Rust-Oleum 207012 Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint

If you're looking for a reliable and effective bottom paint for your trailered boat, Rust-Oleum 207012 Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint is definitely worth considering.

This paint offers a smooth but hard and protective finish that slowly releases copper to help prevent the bottom of the boat from fouling below the waterline. It's designed to keep your boat free from the build-ups of barnacles, algae, and other marine organisms or growth.

The Rust-Oleum 207012 Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint has been designed to provide excellent protection against fouling below the waterline.

It's formulated to release copper to prevent the buildup of marine growth slowly. This paint is ideal for powerboats, racing boats, or other regularly hauled and cleaned boats.

What sets the Rust-Oleum 207012 Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint apart is its ability to slowly release copper to prevent fouling below the waterline. It provides excellent protection against marine organisms.

• Provides excellent protection against fouling below the waterline
• Slowly releases copper to prevent the buildup of marine growth
• Ideal for powerboats, racing boats, or other boats that are regularly hauled and cleaned
• Hard, smooth, protective finish
• It's not suitable for boats that are kept in the water for extended periods of time.

The Rust-Oleum 207012 Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint is ideal for powerboats, racing boats, or other boats that are regularly hauled and cleaned.

You can purchase the Rust-Oleum 207012 Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint on eBay or Amazon .

4. Sea Hawk ColorKote Triple Biocide Antifouling Power

If you're looking for a high-quality ablative bottom paint for your trailered boat, Sea Hawk ColorKote Triple Biocide Antifouling Power is a great option.

This self-polishing antifouling is one of the best ablative paints designed to provide multi-season performance and hull protection.

Sea Hawk’s ColorKote Triple Paint uses a triple formula that includes Econea, Copper Thiocyanate, and Zinc Omadine.

This combination provides excellent antifouling power that can help keep your boat's hull clean and free of marine growth.

Its vibrant colors set Sea Hawk’s ColorKote apart from other bottom paints. You can choose from six basic paint colors that can be mixed to create custom shades that coordinate with popular topside yacht finishes.

• Triple biocide formula for excellent antifouling power
• Self-polishing, low-leaching chemistry for improved environmental friendliness
• Vibrant colors that can be customized to match your boat's style
• Multi-season performance for long-lasting hull protection
• It’s designed for use on all hull materials, but it may not be the best choice for aluminum boats.

If you're looking for the best boat bottom paint that offers excellent antifouling power and vibrant colors, Sea Hawk ColorKote Triple Biocide Antifouling Power paint is a great choice.

You can purchase Sea Hawk ColorKote Triple Biocide Antifouling Power on Amazon .

5. Sea Hawk's 4705 QT Smart Solution AF Bottom Paint (black)

If you're looking for a reliable and high-performance bottom paint, Sea Hawk's 4705 QT Smart Solution AF Bottom Paint is definitely worth considering.

This antifouling paint is designed to provide long-lasting protection against barnacles, algae, and other organisms that can damage your boat's hull.

Sea Hawk's 4705 QT Smart Solution AF Bottom Paint is known for its exceptional performance and durability.

It’s formulated with a high copper content, which ensures maximum protection against fouling and corrosion. This bottom paint is also easy to apply and dries quickly, making your painting job easy. In fact, you can easily paint two coats without much struggle.

Its unique formula sets Sea Hawk's 4705 QT Smart Solution AF bottom paint apart from other bottom paints. It contains a special resin that helps reduce paint buildup and makes cleaning easier.

• Provides long-lasting protection against marine growth and corrosion
• Easy to apply and dries quickly
• It contains a special resin that helps reduce paint buildup and makes cleaning easier.
• Compatible with a wide range of substrates
• Eco-friendly and less harmful to the environment

It’s relatively expensive compared to other bottom paints on the market. However, most people find this product's performance and durability well worth the extra cost.

If you own a trailered boat and want to protect its hull from marine growth and corrosion, Sea Hawk's 4705 QT Smart Solution AF Bottom Paint is a great option.

It’s also ideal for DIY boaters who want high-performance bottom paint that is easy to apply and provides long-lasting protection that can last a few seasons.

You can purchase Sea Hawk's 4705 QT Smart Solution AF Bottom Paint from a variety of retailers, including Jamestown Distributors and Amazon . Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully when applying this product to ensure the best possible results.

6. TotalBoat JD Select Ablative Antifouling Bottom Paint

If you’re looking for hybrid paints, TotalBoat JD Select Ablative Antifouling Bottom Paint is a great choice. This water-based hybrid ablative paint provides excellent protection against barnacles and slime for a full season.

The paint's ablative properties help shed slime and prevent paint buildup on the surface. You can apply it by brush, roller, or spraying.

TotalBoat JD Select Ablative Antifouling Bottom Paint has a medium copper content that fights hard and soft fouling like barnacles, slime, and weeds.

It’s designed to provide full-season protection against marine growth, saving you time and money on maintenance. The paint's ablative properties also help improve your boat's speed and performance by reducing drag.

TotalBoat JD Select Ablative Antifouling Bottom Paint is a hybrid paint that combines the best of both water-based and solvent-based paints.

It provides excellent protection against marine growth while being easy to apply and clean up. The paint's medium copper content strikes a balance between effectiveness and environmental safety.

• Full-season protection against barnacles and slime
• Ablative properties reduce drag and improve performance
• Low-VOC, low-odor, water-based formula
• Easy to apply by brush, roller, or spray
• Available in different colors to match your boat's aesthetics
• It may not be suitable for boats that are frequently used in saltwater or areas with high fouling pressure.
• The paint's medium copper content may not provide enough protection in extreme conditions.

TotalBoat JD Select Ablative Antifouling Bottom Paint is ideal for boat owners who want a hybrid paint that combines the best of both water-based and solvent-based paints. It’s also suitable for boat owners who want full-season protection against barnacles and slime without compromising performance.

You can buy TotalBoat JD Select Ablative Antifouling Bottom Paint on Amazon and eBay .

7. TotalBoat Underdog Bottom Boat Paint

TotalBoat Underdog is an excellent choice for those who own trailered boats and are looking for high-quality, affordable, and effective bottom paint.

This antifouling paint is designed to provide single-season protection in low-fouling conditions. It’s a solvent-based ablative paint that continuously releases fresh 24% cuprous oxide biocide while minimizing paint build-up.

TotalBoat Underdog is a reliable and effective bottom paint that provides excellent protection against barnacles and other marine growth.

It’s designed to wear away gradually as your boat moves through the water, which helps to reduce paint build-up and ensure that your boat remains clean and free of fouling.

What sets TotalBoat Underdog apart from other bottom paints is its affordability. It’s an excellent value for money and provides excellent protection against marine growth. Additionally, it’s easy to apply and dries quickly, which makes the painting process faster and more convenient.

• Provides single-season protection in low-fouling conditions
• Continuously releases fresh biocide to prevent marine growth
• Minimizes paint build-up to ensure a clean, smooth bottom
• Affordable and excellent value for money
• While TotalBoat Underdog is an excellent choice for many boat owners, it may not be suitable for those who sail in areas with high fouling conditions.
• Also, it’s a single-season paint, which means it must be reapplied each year.

TotalBoat Underdog is an excellent choice for boat owners who are looking for an affordable and effective bottom paint that provides single-season protection in low fouling conditions. It’s also a great option for those who are looking for boat paint that is easy to apply and dries quickly.

TotalBoat Underdog is available for purchase from a variety of retailers, both in-store and online retailers such as Jamestown Distributors and Amazon .

8. Sea Hawk's Aluma Hawk Aluminum Bottom Boat Paint

If you're looking for a quick-drying, corrosion-inhibiting paint coating for your aluminum boat, Sea Hawk's Aluma Hawk Aluminum Bottom Boat Paint is an excellent choice.

This chromate-free paint is designed to be used both below and above the waterline and can be applied directly to the metal without a primer.

Aluma Hawk boat paint has a unique phenolic resin, which allows you to use it as a primer directly on your aluminum boat or other metal boats, whether you have a topcoat or don’t.

It provides superior protection against potential damage and degradation, making it an ideal choice even for aluminum hulls.

What sets Aluma Hawk apart from other bottom boat paints is its ability to be used as a primer directly on your aluminum boat. This not only saves time but also provides an additional layer of protection against corrosion.

• Quick-drying
• High-solids
• Corrosion-inhibiting
• It can be used above or below the waterline
• It can be used as a primer directly on metal
• Provides superior protection against potential damage and degradation
• Aluma Hawk may be unsuitable for boats made from materials other than aluminum.
• It’s not the most cost-effective option for those on a tight budget.

If you own an aluminum boat and are looking for a high-quality bottom paint that provides superior protection against corrosion and potential damage, Aluma Hawk is an excellent choice.

You can purchase Sea Hawk's Aluma Hawk Aluminum Bottom Boat Paint from a variety of retailers, including Jamestown Distributors and Amazon .

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Bottom Paint for Your Boat

Choosing the right paint for your trailered boat is crucial to keeping it in good condition and preventing damage from fouling organisms. Here are some factors to consider when choosing boat bottom paint:

Water Conditions

The water conditions where you will be boating will determine the type of bottom paint you need. For example, if you intend to boat in saltwater, you’ll need a different type of bottom paint than the one you’ll be using to boat in freshwater. Salt water tends to be more corrosive and requires a bottom paint that can withstand harsh conditions.

Type of Boat

Your boat type will also determine the type of paint you need. Different types of boats have different needs when it comes to bottom paint.

For example, a sailboat that spends most of its time at anchor will need a different type of bottom paint than a powerboat that is used for watersports.

Frequency of Use

How often you use your boat will also determine the type of bottom paint you need. If you use your boat frequently, you will need bottom paint that can withstand the wear and tear of constant use.

But if you only use your boat occasionally, you may be able to get away with less durable bottom paint.

Environmental Concerns

If you’re concerned about the environment, you may want to choose an eco-friendly bottom paint. Some boat bottom paints contain harmful chemicals that can leach into the water and harm marine life. Look for a bottom paint that is labeled as eco-friendly or low VOC.

The cost of bottom paint can vary widely depending on the type and brand you choose. While choosing the cheapest or most economical option may be tempting, keep in mind that a lower-priced bottom paint may only last for a short time or provide as much protection as a higher-priced option.

So as you conduct a paint comparison on the market, consider your budget and choose the best bottom paint you can afford.

Compatibility with Existing Paint

If you’re repainting your boat's bottom, ensure the new bottom paint is compatible with the existing paint. Using incompatible paints can cause the new paint to peel or flake off, damaging the boat's hull.

By taking these factors into account, you’ll choose the best bottom paint to keep your boat in good condition and prevent damage from fouling organisms.

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This article may contain affiliate links where we earn a commission from qualifying purchases. The images and content on this page may be created by, or with the assistance of, artificial intelligence, and should be used for entertainment and informational purposes only.

About THE AUTHOR

Brian Samson

I have a deep love of houseboating and the life-changing experiences houseboating has brought into my life. I’ve been going to Lake Powell on our family’s houseboat for over 30 years and have made many great memories, first as a child and now as a parent. My family has a passion for helping others have similar fun, safe experiences on their houseboat.

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After spending over 30 years on houseboats, the memories and knowledge we've gained will never fade. Learn from our experiences here on LakeWizard. You can read more about us and our team, here .

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Choosing a Bottom Paint

Our past studies of freshwater bottom paints and regional bottom paints is another reminder that the most effective paint in our testing might not always be the best for your circumstances or location.

Unless you’re prepared for more prep work than a light sanding, the first step in selecting a bottom paint is finding one that’s compatible with what’s on your hull now. All of the manufacturers in our test will provide guidance on this, either over the phone or on the company website.

Generally, you can repaint a hard paint with either a hard or soft paint, while a soft ablative paint will need more sanding or a tie-coat primer when being coated with a hard paint. Bare fiberglass or metal will require a primer, and aluminum components like saildrives need a special copper-free paint that won’t induce potentially disastrous galvanic corrosion.

Before plunking down nearly $250 or more a gallon, consider where your priorities lie.

Simple application: With no unpleasant solvents, water-based paints are easy and safe to apply.

The environment: Driven by legislation regulating copper loading in sensitive waters, this is a fast-growing field. In recent tests the copper-free blends from Epaint have proven the most effective in marine environments. This is good news for owners of aluminum boats, which are incompatible with most copper-laced paints. Freshwater boats will be pleased with some of the less expensive paints featured in this months report.

No paint buildup: Over time, ablative paints wear away; hard paints generally form thick layer cakes.

Quick recoating: Hard paints can take a second coat sooner than ablatives, although some of the newer copolymer ablatives can be recoated after four hours or less. Thin-film Teflon paints for racing boats can dry in a matter of minutes.

Haulout schedules: Some paints (typically hard paints) lose their effectiveness if not launched within a certain time frame, or if the boat is hauled out and then relaunched without painting. Some paints you need to lightly sand or scuff to reactivate before relaunching.

Trailerability: Some ablative paints are designed to resist abrasion from trailering. Most hard paints will trailer well, but not all are meant to dry out.

Color: Pettit Vivid, Interlux Trilux, and Blue Water Kolor offer broad palette choices. Typically, the low-copper paints (Epaint being an exception) offer more color choices. If potency is what you’re after, some makers suggest black, although our panel studies are inconclusive regarding this. Some brands (such as Pettit) put a little more copper in some of their red paints.

Want to be a part of our bottom paint testing program? Fill out this quick survey at https://goo.gl/qTbu6p so we can share your experience with other sailors.

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When we moved our Pearson 303 from the Atlantic Coast to an Inland Lake, 34 years ago, we wondered what was the best antifouling paint to use in fresh water. We had been using Woolsey Neptune II copper based ablative paint in the Atlantic waters, re-applying it every 12 months or so. So we called Woolsey to ask them what paint to use before launching the boat in fresh water. They discussed tin based paint as the most cost-effective option, and then they asked me what I had been using. When told about the Neptune II, their comment was “you’ll never have to paint the bottom again.” I had some paint left over from the last application, so we threw that on the bottom, launched the boat, and we’ve never had to paint the bottom again. They were 100% correct, even after 34 years!

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