420 sailboat speed

Boat Care And Upgrades

Buying And Selling

Destinations

420 Sailboat: An In-depth Analysis

The 420 sailboat, a classic in the sailing world, is known for its versatility and performance. Loved by both beginners and seasoned sailors alike, this craft offers a unique sailing experience. In this comprehensive review, we will delve into its features, functionality, and overall value.

The History of the 420 Sailboat

The 420 sailboat has been a staple in the boating community since its creation in 1959. Designed by Christian Maury, this French-made dinghy has gained a reputation for being a top choice for youth training, high school and collegiate sailing, and even for competitive events. Over the decades, it has proven its worth and stood the test of time, making it a much-loved choice for many sailors.

Design and Construction

When it comes to design and construction, the 420 sailboat is nothing short of impressive. Its 4.2 meters of length coupled with a light hull weight of around 80 kg allows for easier transportation and storage. The boat's construction materials have evolved over time, with modern versions often featuring a durable fiberglass hull and an aluminum mast.

Sails and Rigging

The 420's sailplan consists of a mainsail, a jib, and a spinnaker. This configuration offers a balanced performance in various wind conditions, allowing sailors to efficiently manage and adjust sails as necessary.

Performance on Water

The 420 sailboat's performance is noteworthy, as it strikes a perfect balance between speed, stability, and maneuverability. Its responsiveness, combined with the simplicity of its handling, makes it an ideal boat for a wide range of skill levels.

Handling and Maneuverability

The 420's handling and maneuverability is where this vessel truly shines. Its lightweight design and efficient hull shape allow for quick tacking and gybing, while the adjustable rigging system enables sailors to modify the boat's performance according to changing conditions.

Comfort and Safety

Although primarily designed for competitive sailing, the 420 sailboat doesn't compromise on comfort and safety. The cockpit is spacious enough to accommodate two people comfortably, while the hull's robust construction and the boat's inherent stability offer peace of mind to the crew on board.

The 420 sailboat is truly a gem in the sailing world. With its enduring design, commendable performance, and solid build, it promises an enjoyable sailing experience. Whether you're a beginner looking for a reliable boat to learn on, or an experienced sailor seeking a versatile craft for competitive racing, the 420 sailboat certainly warrants consideration.

Price and Value

When it comes to value for money, the 420 sailboat stands tall among its competitors. While the initial investment may seem significant, its longevity, performance capabilities, and the enduring demand in the second-hand market make it a worthwhile investment for the serious sailor.

Initial Cost

The price of a new 420 sailboat can vary significantly depending on the manufacturer, equipment included, and the specific model. As of 2023, you can expect to pay anywhere between $8,000 to $12,000 for a new 420 sailboat.

Maintenance and Operating Costs

The 420 sailboat's maintenance costs are relatively low compared to other similar vessels. Due to its robust construction and simple design, regular cleaning and occasional rigging adjustments are generally all that's needed to keep a 420 in top shape. Additionally, being a small sailing dinghy, it doesn't incur mooring fees and its transportation costs are minimal.

Resale Value

One of the standout aspects of the 420 sailboat is its strong resale value. Given its popularity in sailing schools and racing events, there is always demand in the second-hand market. Well-maintained boats often retain a significant percentage of their original value, making the 420 a financially sound choice.

Final Thoughts

The 420 sailboat is a true classic that continues to hold its own in the contemporary sailing world. With its perfect balance of performance, durability, and value, it offers a versatile sailing solution for enthusiasts of all skill levels.

In conclusion, the 420 sailboat ticks all the right boxes for both recreational and competitive sailing. From its clever design and excellent performance to its safety features and overall value, it offers everything a sailor could ask for. For those in the market for a reliable, efficient, and enjoyable sailing vessel, the 420 sailboat is indeed a worthy contender.

You may also be interested in:

The Westerly Centaur: A Classic Cruiser for Modern Sailors

By Derek Caldwell

Review of Honda 2.3 Outboard Motor

Exploring the World of Schooner Boats: A Comprehensive Guide

By Ben Hunter

Review of the Seawind 1370 Catamaran

Review of Azimut 43

By Poppy Harvey-Fitzgerald

Honda Boat Motors: In-Depth Review & Buying Guide

Azimut 50: A Comprehensive Review

Pilot Boats: A Comprehensive Review

Tracker Jon Boats: A Comprehensive Review of the Versatile Lineup

Highfield Dinghy Review: A Rigid Inflatable Choice

Review of Cedar Strip Canoes

Review of the Bayliner 285 Cruiser: The Spacious Seafarer

Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. Sign in to save them permanently, access them on any device, and receive relevant alerts.

• Sailboat Guide

420 is a 13 ′ 9 ″ / 4.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Christian Maury and built by Rondar Raceboats, Fountaine Pajot, Snapir Sailing Craft Ltd., MacKay Boats Ltd., Lanaverre, Johnson Boat Works, Far East Boat Co., Whitecap Composites, Xtreme Sailing Products, and Nautivela starting in 1959.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

One of the most successful sailing dinghies ever. (Only the SUNFISH or LASER can be considered in the same league.) Originally designed and built by Lanaverre of France. (They built 32,000 according to one source.) Licenses were later granted to other builders around the world. In 1996, the International Class agreed to amend the deck layout. 1 Trapeze permitted. Spinnaker: 97 sq.ft. There is a ‘Club’ version of heavier construction and slightly different dimensions.

Embed this page on your own website by copying and pasting this code.

Discover Related Sailboats

United States Sailboat Show 2019

• About Sailboat Guide

©2024 Sea Time Tech, LLC

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• All Topics Sailing
• Sailboat Racing
• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

420 vs FJ racing

• Add to quote

Does anyone have solid advice as far as racing fj's v 420's (purely boat speed related)? My impression is the fj is slightly more responsive, and likes to point a little more than go low and fast upwind, but i have only had a few races in one. I have plenty of 420 experience so I wont have any problem working off of comparisons. It would be collegiate so no chutes or traps involved. Thanks  

At the risk of sounding seditious, try the Dinghy thread at SA: Sailing Anarchy Forums -> Dinghy Anarchy The Racing forum at Sailnet just isn't that robust, look how many days or weeks there between threads. SA is definitely rougn-and-tumble, but much more race-oriented...  

• ?            
• 176.4K members

Top Contributors this Month

Performance

Accomodation.

Report error

Tell us what's wrong

We do our best to fix any errors in boatpedia. thanks for the help.

• 420 Sailboats: Exploring the Thrill of Dinghy Sailing

Sailing has been an adventurous and captivating water activity enjoyed by enthusiasts around the world for centuries. Among the various sailing boats, the 420 sailboat stands out as a popular choice for dinghy sailing. In this article, we will delve into the exciting world of 420 sailboats, understand what makes them unique, explore different sailing dinghy types, and discover the thrill of dinghy cruising. So, hoist the sails and let's embark on this thrilling journey!

What are 420 Sailboats?

1.1 the origins of the 420 sailboat.

The 420 sailboat originated in France in the late 1950s as a two-person dinghy designed for competitive racing. Its design was based on the popularity of the larger 470 sailboat and was intended to create a more accessible racing boat for young sailors.

1.2 Design and Characteristics

The 420 sailboat typically measures around 4.2 meters (13 feet 9 inches) in length, featuring a single trapeze, a mainsail, and a jib. The boat's hull is often made of fiberglass, ensuring durability and performance on the water.

1.3 Sailing Community and Competitions

Over the years, the 420 sailboat has garnered a strong global following, becoming one of the most popular dinghies for youth and amateur sailors. The boat's versatility allows both beginners and experienced sailors to enjoy thrilling competitions and hone their skills.

The Fascination of Dinghy Sailing

2.1 understanding dinghy sailing.

Dinghy sailing involves sailing small boats, often single-handedly or with a crew of one or two. It offers a more intimate connection with the water, providing sailors with an immersive experience of being one with the elements.

2.2 Advantages of Dinghy Sailing

Dinghy sailing offers several advantages, such as affordability, portability, and maneuverability. Sailors can easily transport and launch dinghies, allowing them to explore various water bodies and remote sailing destinations.

2.3 Challenges and Skills Required

While dinghy sailing is exhilarating, it requires a certain level of skill and adaptability. Sailors must learn to handle the boat in changing weather conditions and use their body weight to maintain stability.

Exploring Dinghy Cruising

3.1 escaping to serene waters.

Dinghy cruising offers a unique opportunity to explore secluded coves, tranquil lakes, and winding rivers. Sailors can escape the bustling city life and immerse themselves in the serenity of nature.

3.2 Navigating the Seas with Confidence

Before embarking on a dinghy cruise, sailors must acquaint themselves with navigation skills, weather patterns, and safety procedures. Proper planning and preparation are essential for a safe and enjoyable journey.

3.3 Preparing for a Dinghy Cruise

Preparing for a dinghy cruise involves packing essential supplies, inspecting the boat's condition, and ensuring all safety equipment is onboard. Additionally, sailors should inform someone about their sailing plans for added security.

Different Types of Sailing Dinghies

4.1 traditional sailing dinghies.

Traditional sailing dinghies often have classic designs and are cherished for their historical significance. They offer a nostalgic sailing experience, appealing to enthusiasts looking to reconnect with the past.

4.2 Modern Performance Dinghies

Modern performance dinghies, like the 420 sailboat, are designed for optimal speed and maneuverability. They are favored by competitive sailors and those seeking an adrenaline-fueled sailing experience.

4.3 Choosing the Right Dinghy for You

When selecting a sailing dinghy, consider your sailing goals, experience level, and preferred type of sailing. Consulting with experienced sailors or boat dealers can help you make an informed decision.

Unraveling the Mystery of Dinghies

5.1 defining a dinghy.

A dinghy is a small boat, often with a shallow draft, suitable for short trips near the shore or larger vessels. Dinghies serve various purposes, such as transportation between a yacht and the shore.

5.2 Brief History of Dinghies

Dinghies have a rich history, dating back to ancient times when they were used as lifeboats and for short excursions from larger ships. Their design and purpose have evolved over centuries.

5.3 The Role of Dinghies Today

In the modern era, dinghies continue to play a crucial role in recreational sailing, racing events, and as safety boats for larger vessels. Their versatility and ease of handling make them an essential part of the sailing community.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

Check out our latest sailing content:

The versatility of the 420 sailboat, 6.1 thrilling racing experience.

The 420 sailboat offers an exhilarating racing experience, with its responsive design and competitive class association events worldwide. Sailing enthusiasts can participate in friendly regattas or challenging competitions.

6.2 Casual Sailing and Cruising

Beyond racing, the 420 sailboat is equally enjoyable for leisurely sailing and cruising. Its stable and forgiving nature makes it suitable for novices, families, and friends seeking quality time on the water.

6.3 Ideal for Novices and Experts Alike

The 420 sailboat strikes a perfect balance between beginner-friendly features and high-performance capabilities. Novice sailors can develop their skills with ease, while experienced sailors can explore advanced techniques.

420 Sailboat vs. Flying Junior Sailboat

7.1 a closer look at flying junior sailboat.

The Flying Junior (FJ) sailboat is another popular double-handed dinghy known for its competitive racing and sailing programs in schools and clubs worldwide.

7.2 Key Differences and Similarities

While the 420 sailboat and Flying Junior share similarities in terms of size and purpose, they have distinct design elements, which affect their handling and performance.

7.3 Choosing Between the Two

Choosing between the 420 sailboat and Flying Junior depends on individual preferences, training programs available, and desired sailing experience. Both boats offer thrilling adventures for sailors of all ages.

Yacht vs. Boat: Understanding the Distinction

8.1 what defines a yacht.

A yacht is a larger and more luxurious vessel, often used for recreational purposes, cruising, and leisure activities. Yachts are known for their opulence, amenities, and long-range capabilities.

8.2 How is a Boat Different?

Boats, including sailing dinghies like the 420, refer to smaller watercraft used for various purposes, such as sailing, fishing, transportation, and sports.

8.3 Determining the Right Vessel for Your Needs

Selecting between a yacht and a boat depends on factors such as budget, desired activities, number of passengers, and the kind of sailing experience you wish to have.

The Thrill of 420 Sailing Competitions

9.1 the competitive spirit.

420 sailing competitions are known for their competitive spirit and camaraderie among sailors. Participants challenge their skills and tactics to outperform their rivals.

9.2 International 420 Class Association (ICA)

The International 420 Class Association (ICA) is the governing body that organizes and regulates 420 sailing events worldwide, fostering a vibrant and inclusive sailing community.

9.3 Notable 420 Sailing Events

From local regattas to prestigious international championships, 420 sailors have the opportunity to participate in a wide range of events that cater to different skill levels and age groups.

Owning a 420 Sailboat: A Dream Come True

10.1 factors to consider before purchasing.

If you're considering owning a 420 sailboat, factors like budget, boat condition, and available storage space should be carefully evaluated to make the right investment.

10.2 Maintaining Your 420 Sailboat

Proper maintenance is essential for keeping your 420 sailboat in top-notch condition. Regular inspections, cleaning, and timely repairs contribute to its longevity and performance.

10.3 Cherishing the Sailing Memories

Owning a 420 sailboat is not just about the vessel itself but the unforgettable memories created on the water. Cherish the moments spent sailing, racing, and exploring new horizons.

420 sailboats have captivated sailors worldwide, offering a versatile and thrilling sailing experience. From competitive racing to leisurely cruising, the 420 sailboat has proven its mettle as a reliable and exciting dinghy. Whether you're an experienced sailor seeking a new challenge or a novice eager to learn the ropes, the 420 sailboat is ready to take you on a memorable adventure on the open waters.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite  sailing destinations.

FAQs more about 420 sailboats

I am ready to help you with booking a boat for your dream vacation. contact me..

Denisa Kliner Nguyenová

Browse by Category

• Coach of the Year
• High School Sailing Team of the Year
• Optimist Sailor of the Year
• Sailing Fitness
• Regatta News/Results
• Boat Speed/Tuning/Sailtrim Articles
• General Sailing News
• Coaches Locker Room
• From the Experts
• Profiles in Pro Sailing
• Featured Jobs
• Marketplace Ads
• Skip to primary navigation
• Skip to main content
• Skip to primary sidebar
• Skip to footer

Sail1Design

First Name*

Email Address*

420 Class: Club, Collegiate = Win, Win

August 1, 2014 by Sail1Design Editor 1 Comment

Reader Interactions

[…] To learn more about the c420, read our class profile! […]

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

By submitting this form, you accept the Mollom privacy policy .

One Design Classes

Browse the airwaves.

• Sailing News Articles
• High School & College News Articles
• One-Design Class Profiles
• Tactics & Strategy
• Sailing & Education
• ICSA Rankings
• Sailing/Yacht Club Profiles
• Youth Sailor of the Year
• Sail1Design Annual Awards

Helpful Links

• Join the S1D Team
• Accessibility Help
• Privacy Policy
• Entries feed
• Comments feed
• WordPress.org

420 Tips From the Tops

From the Team Vanguard site.

The following measurements are those we have found to be the fastest settings for a Club 420. After experimentation you may find that a slightly different setting may mean even better boat speed for you and your style of sailing. The Club 420 is an extremely popular boat used in both college and club/junior racing. It has been sailed in numerous Youth Championships. It is the recognized junior class boat in many areas. In college sailing, once the standing rigging is set, there is no adjustment to the shrouds, spreaders, mast butt position, etc. In club/junior sailing there may be an opportunity for adjustment. Our tuning guide addresses both types of sailing and the compromises necessary for collegiate racing. Scroll down the page to read the entire guide.   MAST STEP The mast step should be set at 9′-4 1/2″ when measured from the inside of the transom along the floor of the boat to the back of the mast. Usually this places the butt of the mast in the first pin hole from the front. MAST RAKE To measure the rake hoist a tape measure to the top of the mast on your main halyard. Lead the tape measure over the top of the transom, down the aft face of the transom to where the transom meets the bottom of the boat. For club/junior sailing the rake should be adjusted to fall between 21′-6 1/2″ for light winds and 20′-9 1/2″ for heavy air. Note that the shrouds and, therefore, the rig tension should be adjusted as well, as the rake is ALT=”ered for varying wind conditions. (Please see chart at end of tuning guide.) In general in heavier winds and as you become overpowered, rake the mast farther aft which will twist open the leech of the jib and depower the sail. This has the same effect as moving the jib lead aft. Raking the mast aft also moves the center of effort aft, which makes the boat naturally head up into the puffs instead of being blown over sideways. Heavy crews (over 270 lb.) will want to rake aft in higher wind velocities because they can use the extra power. Lighter crews (under 240 lb.) will tend to be overpowered sooner and should rake farther aft in lower wind velocities. Here is a good rule of thumb. If your boom is consistently out beyond the corner of the boat to maintain the boat balance when sailing upwind, you should rake the mast farther aft. Note: As mentioned earlier, racing the Club 420 collegiately you are limited in the amount of adjustments that can be made. You are restricted to the shroud settings that the host college has selected. Each fleet may be set up differently (hopefully each boat in the fleet is identical) making the “magic numbers” different. In light winds you want the rig raked farther forward. In heavy winds it is necessary to rake it aft. Since you are not able to adjust the shrouds as the rig is raked aft, the result is a looser rig, but one that is still better balanced with depowered sails. By itself this set up is fine, but be careful of overtensioning the boomvang in a breeze. Too much vang tension without the tighter rig and mast blocks (see section on following pages) will lead to excessive headstay sag and overbending of the mast. This creates a jib that is too full, a main that is too flat and a badly balanced boat. Instead sail with a looser vang in heavy winds. With the vang more eased the mainsheet will control the amount of twist (the angle of the top batten to the boom). You can depower quickly by easing the sheet and twisting the main more open. This makes it easier to quickly balance the boat and pop it up on a plane when sailing upwind in a breeze. RIG TENSION The tension of the rig is effected through shroud position and channel adjusters and tension of the jib halyard. It is measured off the 1/8″ sidestays with either the new Loos model PT-1 tension gauge or the older model A tension gauge. (These gauges are very helpful in tuning your Club 420.) While they are valuable in setting the tension close to that of other boats, they will only give relative tension numbers. We have found wide variances, even with new gauges. Take note of what we describe as the goal in setting the rig up with the proper tension. Remember, use the Loos gauge to get close to the specified tensions. If in doubt, use your gauge to measure the fastest boats and set your boat up accordingly! While sailing your Club 420 in club/junior racing, your rig tension should be varied from 240 lb. in light winds, to a maximum tension of 360 lb. in near survival conditions. (Again, note the chart at the end of the tuning guide.) When the rig is tensioned properly for upwind sailing, the leeward shroud just starts to go slack (definitely not “dangling”). For the collegiate sailors, since you are not able to adjust your shrouds, go ahead and read on. The best method to change your rig tension while on the water between races is to ease the jib halyard until the forestay is just taking all the load. This will allow the mast to fall back enough that it should be fairly easy to adjust the position on the leeward shroud. When completed, tack and do the other side. On some older boats it may be necessary to add an extender to the forestay to allow the rig to drop back enough to change the pin position. To pull the rig back forward, use the 3 to 1 purchase on the jib halyard, “bowstringing” the halyard above the purchase, then taking up the slack created with the 3 to 1 purchase. For lightweight crews or those low in strength, it may be difficult to change the rake and rig tension on the water. Some may find it helpful to tension the jib halyard through placing your feet on the bow while the crew tightens the halyard inside the boat. MAST BLOCKS Mast blocks are usually not supplied with the boat. Mast blocks are either wood or plastic spacers that are cut to fit into the mast partners in front of the mast. Placing mast blocks in the slot in heavy winds will help prevent the mast from overbending too much down low. In light winds mast blocks are not at all necessary. As the breeze builds, especially when more boomvang tension is applied, the mast will bow forward. If unrestricted it can bend too much below the spreaders. Overbending creates two major problems. First the jib luff will sag more which reduces your boat’s pointing ability and it will overpower the boat by making the jib too full. Secondly, overbending the mast down low will overflatten the main in this area and greatly reduce its drive and power. Ideally in windy condition where the boomvang is tensioned, mast blocks are placed in front of the mast in the partners to the point where they fill up the space less about 1/8″ to 1/4″. If there is the possibility of a capsize, be sure to use some type of retaining line or duct tape to hold your blocks in place. When sailing collegiate regattas, unless the entire fleet is fitted with mast blocks and their adjustment is specifically allowed, this tuning technique is not applicable. CENTERBOARD POSITION When sailing upwind the centerboard is usually in its maximum down position. In the near survival conditions when the boat is greatly overpowered, it is helpful to pull the board up as much as 2 or 3 inches to balance the helm and make the boat easier to steer. Downwind and on a reach with or without the spinnaker, the board should be positioned high enough so that the helm (whether the tiller “tugs” or “pushes”) is neutral. If the board is down too far and there is too much windward helm, the boat will tend to “trip” over the board and will not plane as fast. MAIN TOP BATTEN TENSION While the proper tension on the upper batten is not critical, it is important that the batten is neither too loose or too tight. Ideally the batten would be tensioned just until the vertical, perpendicular wrinkles to the pocket are just barely removed. Overtensioning the batten past this point will make the sail too full and the leech will be too closed. Undertensioning The batten in heavy winds will allow the batten to slide aft in the pocket and the leading edge will poke through the front of the pocket. MAIN HALYARD/CUNNINGHAM Tension on the luff of the main will affect the draft position and to a lesser extent the depth of your mainsail. A looser luff with wrinkles all the way from tack to head is necessary in lighter winds to allow the draft to move aft and flatten the entry of the main. In heavy winds tension the luff until the wrinkles are almost completely gone. This will help maintain the proper draft position. You can adjust the luff tension on your Club 420 main with either your main halyard or cunningham. If you expect to be sailing in a constant, relatively unchanging condition (is that ever possible?!), then it may be best to use the main halyard to tension the luff of the main. On the other hand, if the conditions are puffy yet still leave enough time to adjust the luff tension, you may want to initially set your main halyard so there are slight wrinkles all the way up and down. Then use your cunningham tension (through the grommet just above the tack), to fine tune the luff tension for the proper wrinkle and draft position. OUTHAUL Your North Club 420 mainsail does not require a great range of adjustment to be set properly. For lighter winds tension the outhaul until vertical wrinkles just disappear and the sail is smooth. As the breeze picks up and the boat becomes more overpowered progressively tension the outhaul. The foot tape on the bottom of the sail should be standing straight up from the boom in very windy, near survival conditions. Downwind if there is an opportunity to adjust the outhaul, ease it until the bottom of the sail is just smooth. Be conscious of overtensioning the outhaul in any conditions, as this will overflatten the bottom of the sail and depower the boat which harms the boats pointing capability. MAINSHEET TENSION Ideally the mainsheet should be tensioned so that the last 18″ of the top batten is set nearly parallel to the boom (sighted from underneath the boom looking up the sail vertically). Trimming the mainsheet harder will hook the top batten in relation to the boom which will proved the boat with short bursts of pointing ability at the expense of power and acceleration. Easing the sheets so that the top batten twists open (falls away) from parallel to the boom will compromise top end speed and pointing ability, but greatly increase the boat’s power to punch through waves and ability to accelerate out of a tack. The mainsheet will never just be cleated and left alone. It is one of the more critical adjustments on the boat. Play it constantly to allow the boat to point and power up and to sail with a balanced helm. BOOMVANG Downwind the boomvang is tensioned just enough so that the last 18″ of the top batten is nearly parallel to the boom. Be careful of overvanging in light winds and undervanging in heavy winds. Upwind in light winds, the vang needs to be loose enough so that the leech will twist open (upper batten angled outboard) to help the boat drive through waves and accelerate out of a tack. The vang should not be totally loose as this will compromise the boat’s speed and acceleration out of tacks. The vang should be set loose enough so that when the mainsheet is eased out the upper batten a good 15 to 20 degrees open from parallel to the boom, but no looser. As the breeze picks up, increase boomvang tension to help bend the mast and flatten the sail. At maximum boomvang tension there will be slight overbend wrinkles running from the mast toward the clew of the main. These should be just below the spreader and just barely evident in the heaviest of winds. In very heavy conditions, near survival, it may be advantageous to ease tension on the vang allowing the top of the main to twist way open reducing heeling moment. JIB SHEET TENSION On the Club 420 the jib leads are fairly far outboard which makes it necessary to use windward sheeting in light to medium winds to bring the lead closer to the centerline. The leeward sheet is trimmed in tight until there are slight creases from the tack to the clew. Trim the windward sheet hard enough so that the creases just barely disappear (approximately 1 1/2″ to 2″). In light to medium winds when trying to accelerate ease the leeward sheet and not the windward sheet. In breezy conditions do not use the windward sheet. (Note: Please see the chart at the end of this guide.) SPINNAKER TRIM Your North Club 420 spinnaker should be flown with 4″ to 8″ of curl in the windward luff at all times. An overtrimmed spinnaker will close the slot between the spinnaker and the main. It will not only make the boat sail much slower, but the spinnaker will also become more difficult to fly. Set your pole topping lift height so that it is roughly parallel to the horizon. In light winds it is necessary to lower the pole. In a breeze raising the pole will keep the 2 clews even. Set the pole position nearly perpendicular to the wind when sailing on a broad reach or a run. A telltale on the topping lift 1 ft. up from the pole will greatly aid in setting the proper angle of wind to pole position. Finally, ease your halyard off the top of the mast approximately 6″ to help open up the slot between the spinnaker and the upper sections of the main. WEIGHT PLACEMENT Upwind in very light winds the helmsman should sit just in front of the traveler with the crew placed just forward of the centerboard thwart. In medium winds the helmsman will move aft slightly just straddling the traveler. The crew will be anywhere from just behind the thwart to just forward of the helmsman. In a breeze the helmsman will move aft of the traveler. When on the trapeze, the crew will have his/her aft foot just forward of the helmsman’s body. When hiking the crew will be just forward of the helmsman and hopefully leaning aft and angled behind the helmsman. Remember to keep the weight centered so the boat maintains proper balance through chop. ** We want to thank Tyler Moore, multi-year collegiate All-American and past collegiate sailor of the year (and expert Club 420 sailor!) for his time, effort and input into the creation of this tuning guide.

Share this:

Leave a comment.

Notify me of follow-up comments by email.

Notify me of new posts by email.

• NCA’s login

• 420 World Championships
• 420 Junior European Championships
• 420 European Championships
• Youth Sailing World Championships
• 2022 Eurosaf 420 Cup
• Regional Games
• Results archive - 420 World Championships
• Results archive - 420 Junior Europeans
• Bid for a Championship
• Latest news
• 420 Newsletter
• Why to Sail a 420
• Introduction to the 420
• Tips for buying a 420

Getting into Racing

• Buy and Sell Marketplace
• 420 Superstars
• 420 National Class Associations
• Sustainability
• 420 Executive and Technical Committees
• Constitution
• 420 General Assembly Meetings
• Membership Fees
• 420 Class Privacy Policy
• 420 Class 50th Anniversary
• Privacy Notice
• 2023 420 Class Development Programme

420 to the Max - Free online training video

New 420 tuning video.

• 420 e-Book - Performance Training

420 Boat Settings - Beginner's Guide

• I-420 Sailing Academy
• Learn to Sail - Recommended Boat
• 420 Class Rules
• 420 Licensed Builders
• How to become be a Licensed Builder
• 420 Technical Documentation
• 420 Sail Stickers and Boat Plaques

420 Sails and Spars Manufacturers Guides

• 420 Sailmakers and Equipment Suppliers
• International Measurers
• The Racing Rules of Sailing
• Equipment used at 420 Championships
• Media office

DEVELOPMENT 420 Boat Settings - Beginner's Guide

© Event Media

Courtesy of the British 420 Class Association , below is information on some basic boat settings written by Matt Burge:

Guide to Barber Hauling

Guide to Mast Rake

Guide to Changing Mast Rake on the Water

Guide to using Mast Chocks

Guide to Spreaders

Guide to Main Sheet Bridles

Guide to Tuning

Barber hauling is the name given to tensioning the windward/slack jib sheet. This is not done in all boats (e.g. the Mirror) but in the 420 it helps to achieve a faster jib slot / leech shape. You apply barber hauler simply by pulling the windward jib sheet and cleating it. It is very important to know how much to pull it on though.

Barber hauling makes the jib fuller and therefore more powerful. It has the same effect on the jib as chocks do to the main, and therefore follows a similar pattern:

• In very light winds and when you are overpowered you want the jib flat, so none is needed, however it often pays to put on half an inch in strong wind because it makes the leech more stable.
• In wiring conditions before flat-wiring you again want power, so it is good to pull on about an inch and a half. If it is choppy as well up to two inches is good. Exceeding two inches however will close the slot and is not fast so be careful.
• Putting marks on your jib sheets in both the sheeting positions and the barber-hauler positions will help you to judge how much jib sheet and/or barber hauler you have on.
• Pull on rig tension until it reads 30 on the tension meter. (Always take the reading at shoulder height up the shroud).
• Tie the tape measure to the end of the main halyard and pull to the top of the mast. Then lower it slightly until it measures 16’1½” at the top of the black band at the gooseneck.
• Pull the tape measure to the transom & take the measurement at the top edge of the transom. We are aiming for a reading of 19’11” here (with 30 on the rig tension). So if it is 19’11” leave it and put a pen mark on the mast lining up with where the rig tension block/hook is. Label this mark ‘L’ and record which hole the shrouds are in on the chain plates. This is your light wind setting.
• If it does not read 19’11” then take the rig tension off & move the shrouds down the chain plates if the reading is above 19’11”, and up the plates if it is below. (Each hole on the chain plates will make a difference of roughly 1½” to your measurement).
• Repeat steps 1-4 until you achieve 19’11” with 30 on the rig tension.
• Then, repeat steps 1-4 but to get a measurement of 19’9¾”. Once achieved mark the mast with ‘M’ and again record the hole number (which is usually a hole down from the light wind setting). This is your medium wind setting. Don’t worry if a rig tension of 31 is needed to achieve this measurement.
• Then, do the same again but to get 19’8½” using 31-32 on the rig tension. Mark this as ‘S’ on your mast and record the hole number, (which is usually a hole down from the medium setting). This is your strong wind setting.
• If you & your crew are very light you may like to set up 19’7” with 31-32 on the rig tension. Use this only in very windy conditions.

The strengths of wind at which you should change settings depends entirely on your crew weight:

Use the light wind setting upto the point where you become overpowered. i.e. your crew is flat wiring and you are having to play more than 6” of mainsail.

Then change to medium wind settings. If you are then having to play more than 6” of mainsail all the time on medium settings then change to strong wind settings.

Always choose the setting that best suits the strength of the lulls.

• Go ‘heave-to’. (Back the jib, let the main sail go completely & put the tiller down to leeward).
• Completely let the rig tension off & pull the kicker on hard. This will make the leeward shroud go slack.
• Change the leeward shroud to the new hole.
• Tack & go ‘heave-to’ on the other tack.
• Change the leeward/other shroud to the new hole.
• Release the kicker and pull the rig tension onto the new mark on the mast (that corresponds to the new hole numbers).

This process will take a few minutes and so is not practical to do in a race. However it is useful to be able to do before a race and in between races should the wind get up or die.

It is a good idea to tie your shroud plate pins onto the plates so that you do not loose them whilst changing holes on the water. It is also safer to buy shroud plates that the shrouds cannot come out the top of should things go wrong!

Chock are the small ‘mushroom-shaped’ plates that you can put in front of the mast. They affect the pre-bend and as a result affect the amount of power you have in the mainsail:

Less pre-bend = Straighter mast = Fuller mainsail = More power More pre-bend = More curved mast = Flatter mainsail = Less power

Chocks alter the pre-bend by pushing back on the lower mast, therefore straightening it. So the more chocks that you put in the straighter the mast becomes and the more power you achieve.

Therefore; more chocks = more power

If you set up your light wind mast rake you will find a gap in front of the mast where the chocks go. If you fill this gap with chocks so that they are touching the mast but not pushing back on it this is your neutral number of chocks. Record/remember this number of chocks.

When you have neutral chocks in your sail is at its flattest, so neutral chocks are good when the wind is very light or if you are overpowered. As soon as you get on the wire there is enough wind for the sail to cope with being a bit fuller & more powerful put one more chock in (we call this +1). When you are well out on the wire (but not flat wiring/overpowered), and especially in choppy conditions put two extra chocks in (+2) for maximum power. However, as soon as you become overpowered (i.e. flat-wiring & playing the mainsail all the time) then go back down to neutral chocks because you do not need any extra power.

Also, do not exceed two extra chocks – putting in three extra chocks is likely to invert the mast!!!

It is not always practical to change chocks in a race so make sure they are right before you start. If the wind does change in a race such that you need to change the chocks then the best time to do it is on a run – there is less forwards pressure on the mast on a run & the crew is in the boat and able to reach the chocks.

NOTE: If you are very overpowered in very strong wind then you can remove one of the neutral chocks (-1). This will help to flatten/de-power your sail even more.

If you set up your light wind setting you will notice that your mast has a slight bend/curve going up it, this is called the pre-bend. The amount of pre-bend is controlled by the spreaders. You can measure pre-bend by following these steps:

• Set up your light wind setting & make sure there are no chocks in.
• Get the heavier of the two of you to pull and hold the main halyard tight against the gooseneck on the back edge of the mast.
• Meanwhile the lighter one of you needs to climb onto the boat (carefully) and stand next to the mast where the chocks normally go.
• From this position measure (using a ruler) the distance between the halyard and the back edge of the mast where the spreaders join. (This is the point where the pre-bend is greatest).

Different makes of sails require different pre-bends, these are:

Pinnel & Bax – 35mm Olimpic – 33mm Speed – 32mm North – 32mm

If your pre-bend measurement does not equal your sail’s requirement then release the rig tension, adjust the spreaders so that they are angled further back if your measurement is too small or further forward if it is too large. Then re-measure the pre-bend using steps 1-4 and keep adjusting until its right!

The bridle is the piece of rope that holds your mainsheet block and joins onto each end of the bar behind the centreboard. The lengths of the bridle are very important because they control the mainsail leech tension when block to block. The rules state that you are allowed two settings on your bridle length, so we set up one to be used with the light wind mast rake and one to be used with the medium & strong wind mast rakes. (The bridle length is changed with mast rake like this because the boom height alters with mast rake).

To set up the light wind bridle:

• Choose a day with a force 3-4 wind & set up your light wind mast rake.
• Check that the bridle ropes are equal in length by lining the block up along the centreboard. Adjust them so that they are.
• Hoist the main sail and set it up as if you were going sailing (eg outhaul on etc but no kicker on). Also, turn the boat 45 degrees to the wind so that it’s in the close hauled position. You will need to get your crew to hold the side of the boat so that a gust doesn’t blow it off the trailer!
• Pull the main in block to block and look at the leech. If none of the telltails are flying & it’s straight/tight then your bridle is too short. If the leech is very bowed/slack and all the telltails are flying then your bridle is too long. If your leech has a slight curve and the top telltail is flying 50% of the time then your bridle is perfect. (Make sure the kicker is off all the time).
• Adjust your bridle until this perfect leech is achieved, making sure you make equal adjustments to each side so it always lines up with the centreboard. Once achieved this is your light wind bridle setting.

To make the strong wind setting just tie two loops 7cm up from where the ends of the bridle join the clips on the bar. To use the strong setting you just need to clip the loops onto the bar:

NOTE: You will now need to set up your light wind setting again because tying the loops will have shortened the light wind settings quite a lot.

The following is a general table on how you might set up your 420 for different conditions. This does depend upon your crew weight though and so should not be followed religiously. I would encourage you however to make a table of your own personal settings built up through trail and error.

Related content

Information

Characteristics.

The 420 is the most popular double-dinghy in the world. Designed in 1961, about 60,000 boats have been built in all these years. In Spain, the class is at a great moment. The Cup and Championship of Spain hover around 100 participants each year, there are regattas with lots of participation in all the communities and titles and international recognition is constant.

Lenam Vela Ligera, licensed for manufacture since 1998 has contributed with more than 1300 boats to the 420 class. At Lenam we make a 420 without haste, with passion. The whole process is studied in detail.

The 420 has a strict regulation regarding the materials to be used in its manufacture. Only polyester resin is allowed, while Sandwich-type construction, which is allowed on Optimist, Europa, Snipe…, is forbidden. From these premises, the quality of the raw materials used in the construction of the 420 Lenam is maximum. The NPG isophthalic gelcoat and the isophthalic polyester resin, both with the highest H.D.T (temperature at which the gelcoat and resin can degrade), allow an elongation and elasticity of the laminated materials unequalled, enduring the harshest sailing conditions and suffering less with collisions than other boats.

The glass fibre used is the mat with powder binder, which avoids osmosis problems and offers better chemical resistance properties than other fibres of lower cost.

These materials are much more expensive than other permitted materials, but they ensure an unsurpassed quality of finish and a longer life and competitiveness of the boat over time.

It has already been mentioned mentioned that solutions to give rigidity to the hull or sandwich-type deck with P.V.C. foam are not allowed in 420. What is allowed to give consistency to the hull and deck are omega-type reinforcements to be placed according to the criteria of the shipyard. And it is at this point where the 420 Lenam has an important number of original reinforcements, which perfectly combine its minimum weight and maximum rigidity. In addition, the 420 in general for its special shape with a bulky bow, must take special care to make it light in that area, which Lenam achieves with a particular design of omegas in bow, very light and consistent, which at the same time allow it to provide the hull with a center of gravity more backward than its competitors, a fundamental aspect in short wave conditions or with weighty crews.

Once the hull and deck have been laminated, they remain in the mould for a minimum of one week, in a post-curing process at a constant temperature, in order to achieve the necessary degree of rigidity and curing that will provide the definitive dinghy with a long life at full performance.

And if the materials to be used are very limited, as we have commented in the 420 rules, on the other hand the water lines of the class allow tolerances that give a lot of game. Lenam gives a very versatile response to all wind and wave conditions. The wave conditions can be very different depending on where you are sailing. For instance, the typicall Mediterranean wave, characterized for being short, is different than the waves you can find in the Atlantic. Because of the knowledge provided by sailors and monitors, the water lines of the Lenam give a very easy navigation and maximum speed in these so diverse conditions.

The position and draft of the centreboard and rudder have also been studied to optimise navigation.

The design of the deck, the only one of all the shipyards manufacturing the 420 that is in one piece, contributes to the perfect alignment of the key elements in this section, such as stay chain, bonfire, cockpit, centreboard box and rudder hardware.

The boat is presented with the best hardware and accessories, with the cockpit as “clean” and tidy as possible. Details such as the padded belts with no water absorption, the neoprene anti-slip system for the crew, the spi bags made of water- and sun-repellent fabric… everything to give the sailor the peace of mind of knowing that he is sailing in a boat in which everything is designed to give maximum speed and comfort to the 420!

Elias Aretz, together with Pablo Garcia, runners-up of the world and Spain 2018

“We have been fortunate to be part of the Lenam team in recent years, getting material that has allowed us to fight at the highest level in this class. It’s a boat that adapts very well to all conditions. The quality of the materials used and the personal dedication behind each boat manufactured, is noticeable in the finish and over time. Added to this is the constant research always looking for the most innovative technologies of the moment to continue being one of the most competitive boats on the market”.

Wichy Hernandez, together with Nacho Balaguer, champions of Spain and fourth  of the world 2018

“I have had a long ride in the 420 class, about 8 years uninterrupted in active sailing. From 2016 until now I have sailed with Lenam and in the last two years there has been a great evolution to reach the current boat. Manel has managed to make a very competitive boat, you only have to look at the results obtained that endorse it in recent years. Its volume in the bow gives us a boat much more stable than the rest and, in wavy conditions, it gives us a lot of comfort and ease to pass the wave. With low wind conditions it is one of the fastest boats in the market. The new Lenam Race One is harder than its predecessor, the Lenam Gold. The internal construction has been changed and the result is a very fast boat with wind conditions and also it has more durability. Without a doubt, it is the best quality-to-price ratio 420 you can find. We have the best at home!”

New lighter, softer and more aesthetic kicker and main sail cuningham controls.

New control system of the spi sheet with the barber hook to the maximum in front of the chain allowed.

Simple and effective transom window system with “suction” effect.

New padded belts with no water absorption adjustable thanks to the dynema rope

New material in anti-slip neoprene for the crew member. Perfect grip of the foot and soft to the touch that does not tear the water suits.

New transom bead, which provides greater strength and helps to avoid the annoying collisions typical of regatta starts.

Large opening in front of the daggerboard box that helps to drain the water in the direction of the bayler.

Large opening behind the daggerboard box that helps the perfect drainage of the water in the direction of the bayler.

Simple and hidden centreboard lowering system.

Large bags of anti-solar fabric and Teflon finish, water repellent, with diagonal openings that facilitate the lifting and lowering of the spinaker. Transparent window in starboard bag for “instructions”.

If you would like us to send you a quote for this boat or any accessory, please fill in the attached form. If you indicate the place of delivery we will detail the budget with transportation included.

Southerly 420

Sailboat specifications.

• Last update: 25th March 2020

Southerly 420's main features

Southerly 420's main dimensions, southerly 420's rig and sails, southerly 420's performances, southerly 420's auxiliary engine, southerly 420's accommodations and layout.

Similar sailboats that may interest you: