windvane for sailboat

Wind Vane Self Steering: The Ultimate Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 20, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer: wind vane self steering

Wind vane self steering is a mechanical device used on sailboats to maintain a desired course without the need for continuous manual adjustment. It utilizes the force of the wind and a vertical axis to steer the boat by adjusting the position of the rudder.

How Wind Vane Self Steering Works: A Comprehensive Guide

Title: How Wind Vane Self-Steering Works: A Comprehensive Guide to Sailboat Autonomy

Introduction: Sailing is the epitome of freedom, embracing the unpredictable elements as we navigate vast oceans. However, when embarking on long journeys or overnight trips, the need for reliable self-steering systems arises. Enter wind vane self-steering! In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into this ingenious system, explaining its principles and mechanics while highlighting its benefits for seafaring enthusiasts. So hoist your sails and embark on a journey of knowledge as we unravel the inner workings of wind vane self-steering.

Chapter 1: The Basics of Wind Vane Self-Steering 1.1 Understanding Sailboats’ Balancing Act: – Explaining the importance of maintaining equilibrium between the sail and rudder configurations. – Highlighting challenges faced when manually helming during long passages.

1.2 Introduction to Wind Vanes: – Defining the wind vane as an autonomous steering mechanism driven by apparent wind direction. – Detailing their various components such as vanes, sensors, gears, and linkages.

Chapter 2: Principles Behind Wind Vanes 2.1 Apparent vs True Wind: – Unveiling the distinction between apparent and true wind direction. – Describing how wind vanes utilize apparent wind to adjust course.

2.2 Weight vs Force Systems: – Distinguishing weight-driven systems (servo pendulum) from force-driven ones (auxiliary rudder). – Discussing pros and cons of each system in different sailing conditions.

Chapter 3: Mechanics of Wind Vane Self-Steering 3.1 Servo Pendulum System: – Unveiling the engineering marvels behind servo pendulum systems. – Analyzing their interaction with changing winds and seas.

3.2 Auxiliary Rudder Systems: – Detailing the mechanism of auxiliary rudder systems, their hydrodynamics, and adjustability. – Discussing how they maintain sailboat course while minimizing yaw.

Chapter 4: Installation and Utilization Tips 4.1 Installing Wind Vanes on Different Sailboats: – Providing step-by-step instructions for mounting wind vanes. – Highlighting considerations for various boat designs and sizes.

4.2 Calibration and Fine-Tuning: – Elaborating on the importance of accurate calibration to ensure precise steering. – Offering pro tips to optimize performance under different sailing conditions.

Chapter 5: Advantages and Limitations 5.1 Benefits of Wind Vane Self-Steering: – Presenting the advantages of autonomy, reduced energy consumption, and enhanced safety during long-haul sailing trips.

5.2 Considerations in Complex Sailing Conditions: – Identifying limitations related to challenging weather patterns or narrow channels, necessitating manual intervention.

Conclusion – Navigating the Open Seas with Confidence: Wind vane self-steering systems revolutionize long-distance sailing by providing sailors with a reliable automated alternative to constant helming. Understanding the principles, mechanics, and installation tips outlined in this comprehensive guide will empower seafarers to navigate vast oceans with confidence, leaving them more time to revel in the beauty of their surroundings. Embrace the freedom that wind vane self-steering offers–the transformative companion for every true sailor!

Wind Vane Self Steering Explained: Step by Step Process

When it comes to sailing, one of the most essential tools for achieving steady and reliable course keeping is a wind vane self-steering system. This mechanism harnesses the power of the wind to effectively steer the vessel autonomously, ensuring sailors can enjoy a smoother and more hands-free sailing experience. In this blog post, we will delve into the step-by-step process of how wind vane self-steering works, unraveling its inner workings and highlighting its benefits.

Step 1: Understanding the Basics

Before we dive into the intricacies, let’s start with the fundamentals. A wind vane self-steering system consists of three main components: a wind vane, a linkage mechanism, and auxiliary steering gear. The wind vane acts as a sensory organ that detects changes in wind direction while transmitting these signals to the linkage mechanism. The linkage mechanism then translates those signals into appropriate movements, which are eventually transmitted to auxiliary steering gear responsible for adjusting sail trim or rudder angle.

Step 2: Wind Vane Sensitivity Adjustment

Once you’ve set up your wind vane self-steering system on board your yacht or sailboat, it’s crucial to fine-tune its sensitivity for optimal performance. By adjusting the weight distribution or adding counterweights to your wind vane, you can achieve precise responsiveness according to prevailing weather conditions. This careful calibration ensures that even subtle nuances in wind direction are accurately detected by the wind vane.

Step 3: Setting Course

Now that your system is finely tuned, it’s time to set your desired course manually using traditional methods such as compass bearings or GPS coordinates. Aligning your vessel towards this designated course provides initial guidance for your wind vane self-steerer.

Step 4: Autonomy Engaged

As soon as you activate your wind vane self-steering gear, you enable an autonomous sailor’s best friend. Once the wind vane starts detecting any deviations from your initial course, it sends signals to the linkage mechanism, instructing it to make corrections. This process ensures that your vessel automatically adjusts its heading to maintain the desired course against external factors such as wind shifts or gusts.

Step 5: Continuous Monitoring

While wind vane self-steering handles most course corrections independently, it does require regular monitoring to avoid any potential issues and make minor adjustments as needed. It is crucial to stay vigilant and keep an eye on how your self-steering system performs with changing wind conditions and other environmental factors.

Benefits of Wind Vane Self-Steering

Now that we’ve dived into the step-by-step process of wind vane self-steering, let’s explore its advantages:

1. Hands-free Sailing: With a properly calibrated and functioning wind vane self-steering system, sailors can free themselves from continuously holding the helm, affording a more relaxed sailing experience.

2. Increased Safety: Wind vane self-steering reduces fatigue in long ocean crossings by maintaining a steady course, minimizing human error risk at times when crew members might be physically exhausted.

3. Energy Efficiency: By utilizing the power of nature (the wind), a wind vane self-steerer requires no fuel consumption or electricity input for operation, making it an environmentally friendly and cost-effective solution for long-distance voyages.

In conclusion, the step-by-step process behind a wind vane self-steering system involves understanding the basics of its components, adjusting sensitivity levels, setting an initial course manually while enabling autonomy through continuous monitoring. This technology not only enhances safety but also allows sailors to enjoy hands-free sailing while embracing Mother Nature’s forces to keep their vessels on track efficiently. So why not embrace this clever innovation and sail away into effortless adventure?

Frequently Asked Questions about Wind Vane Self Steering

Frequently Asked Questions about Wind Vane Self Steering: Unlocking the Secrets to Effortless Sailing

If you’ve ever been on a sailing adventure or have spent any time around seasoned sailors, you’ve likely heard of wind vane self steering devices. These ingenious contraptions have sparked curiosity and interest among many sailing enthusiasts, but like any new concept, questions tend to arise. In this blog post, we will dive deep into the frequently asked questions surrounding wind vane self steering systems and shed light on their working principles. Get ready to unravel the science behind these mechanical marvels!

Q1: What exactly is a wind vane self-steering system?

A wind vane self-steering system is a mechanism designed to keep a sailing vessel on course without manual intervention from the helmsman. This device utilizes the power of the wind to maintain a steady heading even in challenging weather conditions. By harnessing wind pressure and utilizing specially shaped vanes, wind vane self-steering systems elegantly counterbalance forces acting on sails and rudders.

Q2: How does a wind vane self-steering system work?

The operation of a wind vane self-steering system revolves around one fundamental principle—using apparent wind angles and force to steer the boat. Typically mounted at the stern of a vessel, these systems consist of an arrow-shaped vane that reacts to changes in apparent wind direction. As the breeze shifts or fluctuates in intensity, subtle movements in the vane are transmitted via lines or linkage mechanisms to adjust the position of an auxiliary rudder at the boat’s stern.

When the boat begins deviating from its intended course due to shifting winds, turbulence, or waves, this auxiliary rudder automatically adjusts itself according to variations in apparent wind angles detected by the main vane. Consequently, as long as there is sufficient breeze available for propulsion, these systems effectively maintain precise navigation even during extended periods at sea. It’s like having an invisible helmsman tirelessly steering your vessel, allowing you to relax and enjoy the journey.

Q3: Are wind vane self-steering systems compatible with all types of boats?

Wind vane self-steering systems are highly versatile and can be installed on a wide range of sailboats. Whether you have a small, single-handed cruiser or a larger ocean-going yacht, there is likely a system that suits your vessel. The main considerations when choosing the right wind vane self-steering system for your boat include size, weight, balance, and how well it integrates with the existing rigging setup. Manufacturers provide detailed guidelines and support to ensure compatibility with various boat designs.

Q4: Can wind vane self-steering systems handle different weather conditions?

Absolutely! Wind vane self-steering systems are designed to thrive in diverse weather conditions and adapt to changing environments. Whether you’re facing calm seas or rough waters with strong winds, these remarkable devices remain stable and steadfast in their coursekeeping abilities. However, it is essential to learn about any limitations specific to the model you choose based on sailing experience and intended use.

Q5: Are wind vane self-steering systems difficult to install?

While installing a wind vane self-steering system may require some technical know-how, most reputable manufacturers provide comprehensive manuals and guidance materials tailored for DIY installations. However, if you prefer professional assistance or lack the confidence in setting it up yourself, seeking help from expert marine technicians is always an option worth considering.

In conclusion, wind vane self-steering systems offer sailors an unprecedented level of autonomy on their voyages by effortlessly maintaining course while they sit back and take in the panoramic beauty around them. Their ingenious working principles elegantly leverage wind power to navigate through uncharted waters. Embracing one of these marvels on your own sailing adventure might just be the key to unlocking new levels of sailing satisfaction. So, batten down the hatches, set your sails, and let the wind vane self-steering system be your faithful navigator on this extraordinary journey!

Mastering the Art of Wind Vane Self Steering: Tips and Techniques

For sailors navigating the vast blue oceans, wind vane self-steering systems are an invaluable tool. These impressive devices not only alleviate the stress of manual helm control but also empower sailors to sail solo or in small crews with ease. However, mastering the art of wind vane self-steering requires more than just installing the equipment – it demands practice, knowledge, and a cunning understanding of its intricacies. In this blog post, we will delve into the depths of wind vane self-steering, providing you with tips and techniques that will have you sailing like a seasoned pro.

Understanding the Basics:

To begin our journey towards mastering wind vane self-steering, let’s start by unraveling its fundamentals. A wind vane self-steering system essentially functions based on an aerodynamic principle: it utilizes changing winds to adjust your boat’s course automatically. The device consists of a wind vane mounted atop your vessel’s stern along with various lines and connections to your ship’s wheel or tiller.

1. Sail Trim is Key:

Properly adjusting your sails plays a crucial role in maximizing the efficiency of your wind vane self-steering system. Ideally, before engaging the device, ensure that your sails are appropriately trimmed for optimal performance based on existing weather conditions. Fine-tuning this aspect will allow for smoother operation and minimize any unnecessary strain on both boat and gear.

2. Get Acquainted with Your System:

Understanding how every component in your wind vane self-steering system works is vital for seamless operation. Familiarize yourself with all cables, lines, blocks, attaching points, and mechanical adjustments within your setup through careful study of instructions provided by manufacturers. Additionally, consider practicing installation and removal procedures before setting sail to save time during maintenance or repairs at sea.

3. Devise Efficient Linkages:

Connecting your wind vane to the ship’s wheel or tiller requires creating a linkage mechanism that transmits the vane’s signals accurately. Carefully select and adjust mechanical linkages, ensuring that they offer proper responsiveness and minimal play. Remember, any slack in these connections will decrease accuracy and compromise performance.

4. Experiment with Tension:

Fine-tuning the tension on your wind vane’s lines is essential for achieving optimal response. Experiment by adjusting the tension – both tightness and looseness – of these lines based on prevailing conditions such as wave heights, wind strength, course changes, or boat speeds. This flexibility allows you to adapt your wind vane self-steering system according to real-time situations and enhance its efficiency.

5. Observe Nature’s Cues:

Nature can be an exceptional teacher when it comes to utilizing wind vane self-steering systems effectively. Observing how wind shifts affect your vessel’s course during different weather patterns will help you develop a keen sense of understanding impending changes in wind direction. By balancing this observation with data from meteorological sources or barometers, you can anticipate shifts ahead of time, allowing for precise adjustments even before they happen.

6. Make Incremental Adjustments:

Once your wind vane self-steering system is activated, it is essential not to make abrupt adjustments unless absolutely necessary. Instead, opt for small incremental changes when altering course or sail trim. Gradual adaptations ensure smoother transitions without overwhelming the device with sudden demands.

7. Continuously Monitor Performance:

Constant vigilance is key while learning to master your wind vane self-steering system completely. Continuously monitor its performance by observing your boat’s behavior relative to sea conditions (weather helm, leeway). Appropriate awareness combined with timely tweaks ensures efficient operation throughout extended voyages.

8. Seek Expert Advice:

When seeking mastery over any subject matter, there is no substitute for expertise gained through experience and shared wisdom. Engage with sailing communities, forums, or seek advice from seasoned sailors who have honed their skills in wind vane self-steering. Their firsthand experiences and clever tricks will provide invaluable insights to propel your learning curve forward.

In conclusion, mastering the art of wind vane self-steering is a journey that requires practice, experimentation, and understanding. By grasping the basics, fine-tuning sail trim, learning your system inside-out, observing nature’s cues, and making incremental adjustments while monitoring performance attentively, you can unlock the true potential of this remarkable piece of sailing technology. So hoist your sails high and let the wind vane guide you towards a new realm of solo or small crew sailing prowess!

Choosing the Right Wind Vane Self Steering System for Your Boat

When it comes to sailing, there’s nothing quite like the feeling of gliding through the open waters, with the wind in your hair and the sun on your face. However, navigating a boat can be a challenging task, especially when you’re all alone out on the vast ocean. That’s where wind vane self steering systems come into play.

A wind vane self steering system is an invaluable piece of equipment that allows sailors to maintain course without having to constantly adjust their sails or helm. This automated system harnesses the power of the wind to steer the boat, freeing up valuable time and energy for sailors to focus on other important tasks.

But with so many different options available on the market, how do you choose the right wind vane self-steering system for your boat? Here are some key factors to consider:

1. Boat Size and Weight: The first thing you need to take into account is the size and weight of your boat. Wind vane self-steering systems come in various sizes designed to accommodate different vessels. It’s important to choose a system that is specifically built for boats within your size range to ensure optimal performance and stability.

2. Ease of Installation: As a sailor, you want a wind vane self-steering system that can be easily installed without requiring extensive modifications or additional support structures. Look for systems that come with clear installation instructions and minimal hardware requirements.

3. Weather Conditions: Sailors know that weather conditions can change rapidly at sea. Therefore, it’s essential to select a wind vane self-steering system that can handle a wide range of weather conditions – from light breezes to heavy winds and high seas. Look for systems that are durable and capable of maintaining control even in challenging weather scenarios.

4. Sensitivity Adjustment: Every boat handles differently based on its design and load distribution. To ensure precise control, choose a wind vane self-steering system that allows you to adjust its sensitivity to match your boat’s characteristics. This flexibility will enable you to fine-tune the system for optimal performance and responsiveness.

5. Reliability and Durability: When you’re out on the open water, you rely heavily on your equipment. Therefore, selecting a wind vane self-steering system from reputable manufacturers known for their reliability and durability is crucial. Look for systems made from high-quality materials that can withstand the harsh marine environment for years to come.

6. Cost: While cost should never be the sole determining factor, it’s still an important consideration when choosing a wind vane self-steering system for your boat. Evaluate different options and compare their features, performance, and price tags to find the best value for your money.

Now, armed with these essential considerations, you can embark on finding the perfect wind vane self-steering system that suits your boat and sailing needs. Remember to carefully research different products and consult with fellow sailors or experts if needed. With the right wind vane self-steering system onboard your boat, you’ll experience smoother sailing adventures like never before!

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Wind Vane Self Steering

Introduction:

Wind vane self-steering systems are a remarkable solution for sailors aiming to harness the power of the wind to navigate their vessels. By allowing the wind to guide the boat’s rudder, these systems reduce manual effort and provide a more reliable means of steering. However, like any piece of equipment, wind vane self-steering systems can sometimes encounter common issues that require troubleshooting. In this blog post, we will delve into some possible problems and provide professional, witty, and clever explanations on how to overcome them.

1. Lack of responsiveness: One frustrating issue that sailors may encounter with wind vane self-steering is a lack of responsiveness. If your system seems sluggish or fails to react promptly to changes in the wind direction, there are a few potential causes.

Explanation: Just like us humans after an indulgent Thanksgiving dinner, wind vanes can become lethargic too! The most common culprit for unresponsiveness is excessive friction within the system caused by wear or improper lubrication. To tackle this issue, start by giving your system a good inspection. Look for any signs of wear on bearings and joints while applying lubrication generously where needed (Think spa day for your wind vane). If this fails to resolve the problem, it might be worth checking if any foreign objects or debris have made their way into critical components – just imagine trying to navigate gingerly during peak pollen season!

2. Oscillations and instability: Unwanted oscillations or instability in your self-steering system can make sailing feel like riding a bucking bronco! This issue can be concerning and potentially dangerous if left unresolved.

Explanation: Imagine you are attempting to steer straight but your trusty wind vane has gained an affinity for dancing instead – quite embarrassing! The primary reason behind oscillations and instability is often an imbalance between sensitivity settings and sail trim (imagine mismatched dance partners). Adjusting both variables can help find the sweet spot. Additionally, thicker or heavier sails may contribute to excessive oscillations, so it might be time to reassess your sail wardrobe and consider adopting a lighter ensemble for smoother sailing (we all deserve a wardrobe makeover now and then!).

3. Misalignment and wandering: Has your wind vane suddenly decided to become an explorer, sailing in any direction other than the one you intended? Misalignment and wandering can occur due to various factors.

Explanation: Picture this – you want your wind vane pointing north, but instead, it decides it wants to discover hidden treasures in the opposite direction – quite the rebellious spirit! Misalignment is commonly caused by incorrect installation or loose connections between the wind vane and the boat’s rudder. Ensure that all parts are securely fastened with the precision of a complicated jigsaw puzzle (but without the frustration). When resolving misalignment issues, imagine you are showing your wind vane some tough love – tighten those nuts and bolts until they can’t even think about misbehaving!

Conclusion: While wind vane self-steering systems generally offer efficient steering solutions for sailors, encountering common issues is not uncommon. By understanding these challenges and implementing our witty troubleshooting advice, your wind vane will be back in shape in no time. Remember, a witty approach combined with professional expertise ensures smooth sailing both on water and through blog posts!

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Why You Need a Wind Vane for Your Sailboat

September 24, 2021 by Travis Turgeon 1 Comment

Many of today’s offshore cruising sailboats utilize a type of autopilot equipment called a windvane. A sailboat wind vane is a mechanical self-steering system that requires no electricity, fuel, or manpower to operate. It’s the perfect addition to bluewater cruisers and offshore sailboats. While a mechanical self-steering wind vane can’t hold you on a compass course, they’re more accurate than human steering over long distances. By reducing the overall mileage of a passage, you’re able to save time and money on your journey. Alternatively, a windvane is essential for short-handed or single-handed sailing. It gives the skipper a much-needed break from the helm when conditions allow.

How Does a Wind Vane Work on a Sailboat?

Mechanical wind vane systems are relatively simple in concept. Once mounted at the boat’s transom or somewhere along the stern, wind prompts the elevated vane to adjust the rudder or wheel steering system, putting your sailboat back on a wind-based course dictated by the captain. The idea is that you won’t have to make constant adjustments in variable winds. Automatic adjustments reduce boat heeling and allow your vessel to remain trim in the water. 

In other words, wind vanes use wind and water resistance to return a ship to course when wind chages direction.

Sailboat Windvane Gears Vs. Electronic Autopilot Systems

Two primary self-steering systems are standard for bluewater cruisers and offshore sailboats: wind vane steering gears and electronic autopilot systems. Both systems have advantages, and many sailors choose to install both systems on their boats. 

Electronic Autopilot Systems 

Electronic autopilot systems are the modern answer to self-steering. They’re easy to use, work without wind, and are an excellent option for near-shore cruising and short-term offshore sailing. Autopilots are also compatible with multi-hull vessels, unlike windvane systems. 

The downfalls to these systems can be daunting, though. Electronic systems are complex and have numerous parts: displays, wiring, plotters, motors – the list goes on. To run an electric autopilot system, you’ll also need a generator. Most even have two generators, using one as a backup for reliability. As you’d expect, they also come with a higher price tag. 

Self-Steering Wind Vane Systems

Windvane steering systems take a more traditional approach to self-steering. They rely on the wind to operate your boat on the desired course. Wind vane steering systems require no electricity, little maintenance, have few moving parts. They also come in several variations to fit your boat in the best way possible. Another massive benefit of a mechanical sailboat windvane is its robust build. This allows reliable and powerful performance in heavy weather conditions. 

There are also several downfalls to a windvane system. They do not work in the absence of wind or under power, can add weight and stress to the boat stern, can be initially expensive to purchase, and won’t work on multi-hull vessels. 

Types of Sailboat Wind Vane Systems

All wind vane systems direct a boat to a wind-based course, but they each do it differently. 

Servo-Pendulum Wind Vane 

Servo-pendulum windvane systems are the most common commercially available system, and they are a favorite among most sailors. The reliability for offshore sailing is a huge selling point. It re-affirms why these are the “classic” wind-driven autopilot systems. 

Main steering servo-pendulum systems have control lines running from the primary steering quadrant to a wheel or tiller. As the wind pushes the pendulum, it directs the boat’s steering by way of the primary rudder. Because of this, the system is solely dependent on the power of the wind. The stronger the wind blows, the more force the system provides to push the boat back on the desired course. 

Rudder steering servo-pendulum systems have the pendulum rudder connected to the primary boat rudder. It works almost the same as the “main steering system,” with a few minor differences. The wind pushes the pendulum rudder to the side, forcing water to pull the boat’s main rudder to change steering. The advantage of this system over the prior is that it involves fewer mechanical components, making it easier to check issues and fix any problems. The disadvantage is that it can be a bit trickier to set.

One of the biggest downfalls of either servo-pendulum system is that the pendulum rudder can not replace an auxiliary rudder. Unlike an auxiliary rudder, its one-dimensional operation makes it unable to run the system if the primary rudder fails. These systems can also create a cluttered cockpit due to the lines running from the steering quadrant. Lastly, servo-pendulum systems generally require more consistent maintenance and more common repairs. 

Auxiliary-Rudder Wind Vane

Unlike servo-pendulum steering systems, auxiliary-rudder wind vanes are entirely independent of all other aspects of the boat. Instead, the main rudder is locked, and the auxiliary rudder steers the vessel after setting a powerful windvane to the desired angle. The main rudder is often locked to the left of center or slightly at an angle to balance the helm. One of the most significant advantages to these systems is that if the primary boat rudder fails, the auxiliary rudder can act as a replacement to steer the boat. 

There are some important considerations to make when purchasing auxiliary-rudder wind vane steering gear. First, auxiliary-rudder windvanes put a significant amount of stress on the vane, making it vital that the model and components are well designed and made of quality materials. If you can source well-made parts, there is minimal risk while out at sea. There are very few moving parts and no critical lines attached to the system. Second, these systems are big, heavy, and bulky. Having such a massive piece of equipment at the stern of the boat isn’t always ideal in every scenario. Lastly, auxiliary rudders can be awkward to operate when the mizzen is in use on ketch-rigged vessels.

Trim-Tab Wind Vane

Trim-tab windvanes are less common than they used to be after the emergence of the steering technologies listed above. The system works by attaching a “tab” to the main rudder. The small surface of the trim tab makes it easy for the wind to move it from side to side, which then forces water over the primary rudder in the opposite direction to keep the boat on course. Those with the appropriate skills and know-how can even construct a trim-tab themselves, although we recommend that they do not rely entirely on a self-made system. 

The major drawback to trim-tabs is that the ability to fine-tune the system is somewhat limited in heavy conditions. 

How to Install a Sailboat Wind Vane System

Installing a wind vane on your boat is relatively easy, but it still takes a bit of planning. 

Initial Considerations

All windvane models require installation at the center of the boat’s transom or as close to the center as possible. Depending on which system you choose to run, you may need to account for the steering lines that operate the system. Steering lines are approximately a quarter of an inch in diameter and need a clear path from the wind vane to the boat wheel. You may redirect the lines with steering blocks, but be aware that each block adds friction and lessens the overall efficiency of the steering system. 

Balancing the Boat

Windvane gears adjust the course of a boat using the wind force at the surface. For this to happen efficiently, you’ll first need to ensure your boat is balanced and sailing as intended. Take your time to get the weight distributed evenly. You’ll also need to reef the sails appropriately so as not to be overpowered. 

Adjusting the System for the Conditions

Regardless of the system, nearly all sailboat wind vanes have one or more adjustment features so that you can optimize performance in various conditions. When wind conditions are relatively light, you should expose the vane as much as possible so that the system receives the most force as possible. In heavy winds, however, you can lower the windvane to reduce the impact on the system. In some cases, the wind vanes have sensitivity adjustments where the vane meets the pivot, so you may not need to adjust the height as weather conditions change. 

How to Engage a Sailboat Wind Vane System

Most wind vanes are relatively adaptable and can adjust to fit a variety of hull types. Some vanes are even customizable to bolt directly onto the boat. As with any other object you bolt to your hull, plan to through-bolt everything with the appropriate bedding and backplates for maximum security.

Operating a sailboat wind vane is far less complicated than you might expect. There are four standard steps to engaging a windvane:

• Deploy the Gear : To do this, attach the wind paddle and unfold the rudder to be placed in the water. Doing this should only take a few minutes at most. 
• Connect the Control Lines : Control lines run from the windvane to the boat wheel and may have steering blocks included in the setup. The system may require you to make a few knots or use some hardware, but again, it’s a relatively easy process once you’ve completed it once or twice. 
• Balance the Boat and Set a Course : With the wind vane deployed, balance your boat, set the course to the desired point of sail, and adjust the windvane to engage the steering. 
• Evaluate the Course and Adjust as Needed : Adjust the vane to steer more accurately after evaluating your approach. Course adjustments are made by rotating and trimming the paddle to match your course.

Perfectly balancing your boat is one of the easiest ways to make your self-steering wind vane more efficient in the water. A vessel with poor balance or trim will not just sail inefficiently, but it will put unneeded stress on the wind vane system.

Have more questions about sailboat windvane systems and how you can best implement them on your boat?  Reach out to the #Boatlife community on our forum  with questions or comments!

If you found this article helpful, please leave a comment below, share it on social media, and subscribe to our email list.

For direct questions and comments, shoot me an email at [email protected]

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Reader Interactions

June 12, 2022 at 5:44 pm

Thanks for the useful information. However, you didn’t mention anything about the usefulness of wind vanes in light or downwind sailing. You mentioned the issue of a mizzen and auxiliary rudder, how do I understand that (as we sail a ketch and thinking about installing a Hydrovane.

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The purpose of a wind-vane self steering device is to allow the skipper to do something other than sitting at the helm. While this is not practical for most un-ballasted small sailboats, a self steering device is an essential tool for the cruising sailor. Graham has been testing the wind vane on his  Core Sound 17 Mark 3  which has an excess of stability and is a perfect candidate for self steering. Following its success we have scaled up the mechanism which is built with modest tools and materials to work for larger boats up to 30 feet. 

We are pleased to offer our wind vane design as a set of downloadable plans and instructional documents revealing all the dimensions and ratios used as well as recommended materials and construction methods for building this simple cheap and effective system at a fraction of the cost of an off the shelf system. Graham's design is based on his decades of experience building wind vane self steering gear since the 1970's and the tips and tricks for setting up a simple to build and reliable system are all conveyed here. The plans for our wind vane include full size templates for all the critical parts along with the dimensions and ratios used. A builder's guide covers recommended materials and things to watch out for as well as details of construction. All you have to do is adapt the system to work on your boats transom configuration. To learn more about our system and if it might be a good fit for you just keep reading. 

How a self steering wind vane works. Short version. The “vane” part in the air provides the input to the rudder. The upper part of the system (the input or vane) is rotated such that it points into the apparent wind once the boat is on course. When the boat gets off course, the force of the wind hits the side of the vane causing it to lean over or in some cases rotate which in turn produces a correcting movement on the rudder. This turns the boat back on course until the vane is once again back to a neutral location. The trick to this is getting the right proportions, feedback and ratios of the vane, rudder, trim tab and control linkages. 

Our Design Requirements

1. Low Friction : The name of the game is LOW FRICTION with wind vane self steering devices. We accomplish this with polished stainless steel against uhmw plastic for a cheap and reliable low friction connection. 

2. Kick-up Auxiliary Rudder : This was a MUST HAVE for our shallow draft boats and not a feature we have seen on ANY other wind vane designs with an aux. rudder. The rudder pivots on a pin at the top of the transom and is held down with a line on a breakaway cleat. 

3. Trim Tab Control : The aux. rudder is controlled by a trim tab that is actuated by the movement of the wind-vane (the part in the air). It's mesmerizing to watch and works completely without batteries or power. 

4. Adjustable vane : The wind vane itself pivots on a horizontal axis that is inclined slightly. This creates an important damping effect in the actuation of the tab so that as the vane tilts it loses power because its projected area decreases. This reduces “hunting” and oversteering and unnecessary oscillation of the input to the rudder. 

5. Removable vane : As with most systems, the vane is completely removed or replaced in seconds and can also be tilted back to increase the damping effect for high winds or made more vertical for light air which increases power. It can also be swapped out for a larger or smaller vane in lighter or stronger conditions. 

6. Adjustable from anywhere in the cockpit : With the addition of a control wheel we can spin the upper part of the vane assembly 360 degrees using a control line routed around the cockpit. This means we can make small adjustments to the direction of the vane from anywhere you can reach the control line. 

-Note that there are features we did not incorporate but may be important to some. One such feature is an emergency tiller. This allows for the use of the auxiliary rudder if the main rudder becomes inoperable. We would certainly want this feature on an ocean going cruising boat. If you build the auxiliary rudder up to reach the top of the transom then this is not difficult to do. Our kick up auxiliary rudder makes this a bit more of a challenge but a tiller tube can be fitted to reach a socket without much difficulty. 

How does our wind vane system work...“I love it when you talk technical.” Our design uses a horizontal pivoting wind vane to control a trim tab on an auxiliary rudder. ( n this configuration, the vessels main rudder does the heavy lifting of keeping the boat generally on course essentially acting like a fixed skeg when the wind vane is engaged. The main rudder and most importantly the sails are adjusted first to balance the helm and then locked off with a tiller clutch. The auxiliary rudder then keeps the boat on course with small adjustments using a trim tab to amplify the power from the wind vane.

But will it work on my boat? … yes but! There are literally dozens of ways to control a boat using a wind vane. Here are a few  put into a nice chart we found on one of the many commercially available wind vane self steering gear company websites. The most common systems are auxiliary rudder systems and servo pendulum systems. If you prefer a  servo pendulum system or your boat is better suited for one then you can still use the vane assembly from these plans and simply adapt the lower unit however we do not show details for a pendulum in these plans.  Servo pendulum gears can generate great power but they are not easy to build and come at a higher cost due to the stronger materials and complicated parts required. They also rely on additional lines and rigging running through the cockpit. We feel an auxiliary rudder or trim tab system offers the best all-around self-steering device for most boats especially for low cost and simple construction methods.  A balanced auxiliary rudder can generate as much power as you need for most boats and has the benefit of being a redundant rudder in the event you need it. In addition, a super low power electronic autopilot like the pypilot can be connected directly to the trim tab or auxiliary rudder to steer a course while motoring for example.

We once installed an auxiliary rudder wind vane on a 45’ steel sloop one third of it’s way into a circumnavigation. It completed its way around the world even though the boat crashed onto a reef in Venezuela. The skipper shipped the auxiliary rudder while the boat pounded. After being dragged off the reef, and with the spade rudder inoperable, the aux rudder steered the boat to port where the main rudder and other damage was repaired. The owner said that the wind vane rudder which was equipped with an emergency tiller mount saved the boat.

The most cited disadvantage of an auxiliary rudder system are that they don't kick up and they require the construction and mounting of an extra rudder. Kicking up is an important feature and one we didn't want to give up especially for our smaller trailable boats.  Our auxiliary rudder can be tilted completely out of the water when not in use.  This is accomplished with some careful geometry and clever mounting BUT it is best suited for nearly vertical  or forward raking transoms. You can still fit an auxiliary rudder to a transom with reverse rake but it is typically done with a very strong vertical tube bolted to the transom at the top and bottom with braces extending diagonally low to the waterline for support. This requires some complex geometry and custom mounting brackets so it is a bit more challenging to mount.  If you are fitting a wind vane self steering system to a boat with an existing transom hung fixed (non kick up) rudder then a trim tab added directly to the main rudder may be a better solution for your boat and our wind vane would be easily adapted in this case. 

The real challenge of mounting. “No size fits all.” Production self steering units will supply various kits and tubing and brackets to help make their systems fit your transom with just a few bolt holes carefully placed. Even with those systems it's up to you to mount it correctly and this will be no different.  You will, without a doubt, need a custom mounting solution for your boat and you are the best person to design and build it! The system we are offering here is but a single example of a configuration fitted to a vertical or forward raking transom of our own design. We can’t help everyone mount this system to their individual transoms and there are probably some sterns that will really be challenging. You may need to design your own rudder for example using the parameters and ratios we offer in our plans as a guide in order to meet the needs of your transom configuration. This is for you to figure out! Remember, being a D.I.Y’er (also known as a sailor) is all about saving money by not charging yourself for the time it takes you to do stuff!

Limitations of a mechanical self steering device... What’s the “Ketch”? Wind vanes are not for everyone and one you build yourself has its own unique challenges to boot. A mechanical wind vane cannot blindly follow a compass course but instead must follow the ever-shifting wind direction and balance of the boat as wind and seat state change. On very fast boats, the apparent wind direction shifts so much that a wind vane is somewhere between useless and dangerous. Cruising cats can be fitted with wind vanes but typically an electronic autopilot is more practical due to their higher speeds. A mechanical wind vane relies on the wind speed being greater than the boat speed which for the vast majority of cruising boats is usually the case. On the current crop of large single handed around the world racers, automatic pilots have become so sophisticated they require training of the computer as they learn the boats behavior during high speed breakaways. 

If you are travelling at displacement speeds with a bit of surfing thrown in and if you do not have unlimited power and money and if you do not mind making small adjustments to the boats trim and self-steering gear as the wind shifts, you will have a loyal assistant that never grows tired or needs feeding. 

Staying in trim A good sailor keeps his boat in trim and a happy wind vane is one that is sailing a boat that is already balanced as well as possible. If your boat is heavy on the helm already then you may need the extra power provided by a servo pendulum system. If you have a hard time steering your boat, a wind vane (any wind vane) will too. 

Space requirements Highlighted below on Graham's Core Sound 17 Mark 3 'Carlita'. Our design requires open space above the transom so it won't work on a standard Core Sound 17 for example due to the proximity of the mizzen sheets. The addition of a boomkin allows the mizzen sheet to be behind the reach of the wind vane sail in the case of the CS-17 Mk3. Likewise a yawl with long mizzen boom will be a challenge as the mechanism must be mounted far behind the transom.

A few notes from Graham....

"Horizontal axis vanes and servo pendulum paddles are the most powerful self steering systems and are certainly required for large or heavy handed vessels. Carlita is a light well mannered boat and requires finesse rather than brute force. If you have not already seen the self steering video, check out the video and answer your own question. She is running almost straight downwind and surfing. After this video was taken she surfed to a little over 10 knots without misbehaving." 

Above, Graham steering his then unpainted Core Sound 17 Mark 3 Carlita with all sails flying in the 2016 Everglades Challenge. Note that this earlier version of the kick up wind vane employed a vertically pivoting vane which was converted the more recent version afterward. Vertically pivoting vanes have less power but do offer some advantages such as being able to just point into the wind when not in use. (photo Patrick Johnson)  

Graham continues...

"The key is an ultra light vane and very low friction. The lead counter weight is just 6 oz on Carlita's system. to balance the vane. This makes the vane very responsive and reduces friction and lowers the mass moment of inertia. The next important feature is differential feedback in the linkage. This means that when the vane kicks the servo tab over and the tab turns the auxiliary rudder, the angle of the tab is rapidly reduced. If you do not have this feature the boat will hunt badly down wind where there is no natural balance from the sails as you do when close hauled. The whole thing is a delicate balance between power and feedback."

In the video below, Graham sails Carlita a Core Sound 17 Mark 3 with the wind vane rudder disabled and in the "raised" position and the boat steers herself with proper sail trim to windward. Notice that the tiller is simply lashed. 

"I want the rudder fixed to aid directional stability. Before engaging the vane, I try to find the sweet spot for the rudder and lock it. I will then observe the course after the vane is engaged for a while and I may rotate the vane or move the tiller slightly. Usually I adjust the vane first. It is a powerful little vane and will tolerate a fair amount of imbalance. All self steering systems hunt but the better everything is balanced the less oversteering there will be.

If you do not enjoy fiddling then a wind vane may not be for you. Naturally they are worthless in waterways because the wind is too shifty. But It did do a great job last week running down the Cape Fear River. The GPS showed a top speed of 8.75 knots and the speed was rarely under 6, at least 3 knots of that was current." -Graham Byrnes

wavefront marine

Tiller clutch (standard).

B&B Windvane Self Steering Plans

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Sorting Out Self-Steering Options

• By Darrell Nicholson
• Updated: December 6, 2001

It seems unfair to regard the self-steering windvane—a device that we often view as another member of our crew—as merely a collection of metal, space-age plastics, and cloth or wood. But for anyone considering buying a windvane, such details merit a closer look.This month, we’ll compare the design and construction of some of the most popular servo-pendulum models on the market today. In a second installment next month, we’ll review alternative windvane designs, including trim-tab and auxiliary-rudder systems.

Servo-pendulum vanes can be broken down into three main components: the sensor vane, the pendulum rudder, and the linkages. The sensor vane is the brains of the self-steering system, but it needs apparent wind to work. Downwind sailing in light air—when apparent wind may be only a whisper—is one of the biggest challenges for a windvane steering system.

Sensor vanes are of two types: horizontal axis or vertical axis. The latter respond like the weathercock on a barn roof, rotating so that the leading edge of the vane always faces the wind. All of the self-steering devices we’ll look at have the more powerful horizontal-axis vanes. The helmsman turns the vane’s leading edge into the apparent wind once the sails are trimmed and the boat is balanced on the desired course. When the boat veers off course (or the apparent wind shifts), the wind strikes the flat side of the vane, tilting the vane on its horizontal axis and triggering the forces that steer your boat back on track.

Although called horizontal-axis vanes, the axes of the vanes we’ll look at are actually angled about 20 degrees from horizontal, away from the wind. This slight angle brings air flow to the lee side of the vane as it tilts, effectively damping the vane’s motion, reducing yaw, and permitting a more accurate steering impulse.

A sensor vane will have a counterweight to ensure proper balance, which becomes more critical in light airs, when the boat’s roll can cause the vane sensor to tilt on its own.

Another essential part of the sensor vane is the set of control lines, or knob, that allow you to adjust its position when you’re setting a new course relative to the wind. You should be able to do this quickly and easily from a safe position in your cockpit, preferably one protected from the weather.

A critical feature to look for in the vane is sensitivity. Any friction at the vane’s axis will inhibit performance in light airs. Many manufacturers supply smaller, heavy-weather vanes or larger, light-air vanes to improve performance in those conditions. You should be able to quickly change or replace the vane without using tools or worrying about losing a thumbscrew overboard. Vanes are generally lightweight and fragile under impact, so carry spares. On some models, you can make replacement vanes from plywood or cloth.

A final consideration is space. Radar arches, davits, or other accessories on your stern shouldn’t restrict the sensor vane’s movement or block airflow.

Power Stroke

Beneath the water, servo-pendulum windvanes rely on pendulum rudders (also called servo-rudders) to provide the muscle for course corrections. When a change in apparent wind tilts the sensor vane, it tells the servo-rudder to turn. Because the servo-rudder is suspended like a pendulum above the water, when it turns, hydrodynamic forces cause it to swing outboard. The substantial force generated by the swinging pendulum rudder is then transmitted to the wheel or tiller. Slowly rotate the broad face of a dinghy oar toward a 4-knot flow of water and you’ll have an idea of the power a pendulum rudder can generate.

Just as the vane requires apparent wind, the pendulum rudder relies on the boat’s motion through the water to do its job. Most manufacturers say that you’ll need at least 2 to 2.5 knots to generate the power needed for steering, although point of sail, sea conditions, and boat’s characteristics will affect this. The faster your boat moves, the more powerful the force that the servo-rudder delivers.

A good servo-pendulum rudder will be semibalanced and have a hydrodynamic profile so that it’s sensitive to the slightest impulse from the sensor vane. Minimizing friction is essential, particularly any friction on the servo-rudder’s main shaft, which the relatively weak impulse from the sensor vane must turn. The servo-rudder should have overload protection—a device that gives way during a collision—so that the windvane, its mounts, and the stern of your boat don’t bear the full impact. Freeing seaweed or a snagged fish trap from a servo-rudder should be quick and easy. You should be able to lift or fold the rudder out of the water and put it back in action while at sea. The pendulum rudder and its shafts must be rugged and resist corrosion.

One final consideration concerning the underwater unit is its ability to serve as an emergency rudder. Most pendulum servo-rudders are too small to steer the boat alone when used as an emergency rudder. Some manufacturers provide larger rudders that can be slipped over the servo-rudder in an emergency. If you’re going to use a servo-pendulum rudder as an emergency rudder, make sure its hull-attachment points are well reinforced because they’ll be subjected to much higher loads.

The Connections

If the vane sensor is the brain of the windvane, and the pendulum rudder provides the muscle, then the linkages are the nerves, the messengers that relay information between them. Two important linkages govern the windvanes we’ll look at: the one between the sensor vane and the pendulum rudder, and the one between the pendulum rudder and the boat’s rudder.

The linkage between the sensor vane and the pendulum rudder has two roles. The first is to efficiently relay every twitch in the sensor vane to the pendulum rudder. In a servo-pendulum vane, this means transforming the vertical motion at the vane sensor into the rotary motion at the servo-rudder. Because the vane’s signal may not be particularly strong, minimal friction here is important. Any play in the linkage will also interfere with an accurate steering impulse. Usually, this linkage is accomplished through bevel gears, levers, and/or rods, and manufacturers use plastic bushings, roller bearings, or ball bearings (often in plastic races) to reduce friction in the linkages. Bushing advocates tout resistance to dirt and corrosion; proponents of roller or ball bearings boast superior performance. In either case, this linkage should be durable, since its components can be hard to repair or replace at sea.

The second role of this linkage is to coordinate just how far the pendulum rudder will swing in relation to the vane’s movement. This helps determine how much helm will be applied to the ship’s rudder. For example, the 2-to-1 ratio of the bevel gears linking the horizontal vane to the pendulum rudder, common to many windvanes, doubles the force of the sensor vane’s impulse and halves the lateral motion of the pendulum rudder. One of the vanes we’ll look at allows you to adjust the ratio of this linkage to suit conditions.

The second linkage is between the pendulum rudder and your boat’s rudder. In most servo-pendulum vanes, this is usually accomplished by low-stretch lines led from the servo-rudder to the tiller or wheel. These lines attach to the servo-rudder either above or below its point of suspension (the horizontal axle or shaft on which the pendulum rudder swings). Manufacturers have long debated which is more effective; heavy-weather performance is an especially contentious issue. Makers that attach steering lines below the point of suspension, such as Aries and Monitor, lead the lines through struts that prevent the rudder from swinging out of the water and losing power in severe seas or a near broach, when lateral loads might be extreme. The opposite camp—including Sailomat, Windpilot, and Fleming, among others—contends that allowing the rudder greater swing room protects the gear from breaking under extreme lateral loads, makes it easier to swing the rudder up in port, permits more direct leads for steering-control lines, and allows for a more compact design. The compromises in either arrangement vary among boat designs. Look for a windvane that you can install in a way that maximizes the range of movement in the steering line—usually about 10 inches—and minimizes friction.

The linkage between the servo-rudder and the main rudder should be easy to disengage under load so that the helmsman can quickly take over. Again, reducing friction here is important. Large, lightweight, roller- or ball-bearing blocks with swivels—if needed—cut friction and ensure direct runs. Proper line tension, which may vary according to sea conditions, should be easy to adjust. Wheel-steered boats add more challenges: the added friction in the connection to the rudder and the “freewheel effect” of the wheel’s inertia. Attaching a windvane to a wheel-steered boat requires an adapter (usually with a clutch) mounted on the wheel. Most wheel-steered boats are compatible with servo-pendulum vanes, although they generally won’t respond as well as tiller-steered boats. Boats with hydraulic steering generally aren’t good candidates for servo-pendulum vane steering, although vanes have worked on hydraulic systems that have bypass valves. To accommodate those boats that are incompatible with traditional servo-pendulum designs, manufacturers are turning to auxiliary-rudder designs, which we’ll look at in the next installment.

The Choices

The primary differences among today’s servo-pendulum rudders are in construction materials, the linkages, and the ways they dampen the motion of either the vane or the pendulum rudder (yaw damping) so that he boat’s rudder receives an accurate steering impulse from the vane. Here are some of the main distinguishing features of the vanes we looked at in this class.

Aries: Apart from minor alterations, the Aries’ basic design has remained unchanged in nearly 30 years, and it’s earned a reputation as being rugged and reliable. Originally built in England and now manufactured in Denmark, the first mass-produced servo-pendulum windvane serves as a good standard for measuring those that have followed. Its formidable construction—cast aluminum, extruded-aluminum tubing, silicon bronze, and stainless steel—makes it one of the heaviest windvanes in this group. Galvanic corrosion can make cleaning or servicing troublesome on older, neglected models, but 20-year-old vanes that function perfectly are not uncommon. By turning a single screw, you can easily replace the plywood vane or angle it backward to dampen motion in higher winds. The vane swings on nylon roller bearings. Two lines control a toothed wheel that clicks with each adjustment and positions the vane to the apparent wind at 6-degree intervals. The servo-rudder is a semibalanced rudder made of foam-filled fiberglass. On older models, a breakaway tube on the rudder shaft affords 360-degree overload and collision protection. Newer models are protected from forward impact with a hinged shaft that eases raising or complete removal of the rudder. The vane-to-pendulum rudder linkage is a relatively heavy forked-aluminum rod linked to beveled silicon bronze gears with a 2-to-1 ratio. Nylon bushings at swivel joints also reduce friction on this linkage. The bearings for the pendulum rudder shaft are solid-plastic composite sleeves. The transmission lines are attached below the point of suspension, through built-in nylon blocks.

Monitor: Featured in the BOC Around Alone and popular among cruising sailors, the Monitor is quite similar to the Aries. The main difference is its construction: 1.9-inch-diameter, .049-inch-thick 316L stainless-steel tubing that avoids the galvanic problems of the Aries. It also features additional Delrin roller and ball bearings (as opposed to bushings in the Aries) in its vane-to-rudder linkage and in the pendulum rudder shaft. About five years ago, Monitor upgraded from 304 to 316L stainless steel. To protect the gear from impact, later models feature strut guards that also reinforced its substantial frame. Its sensor vane (angled 20 degrees) is plywood, easily replaceable, and can be infinitely adjusted by a line leading to the cockpit. A light-air sensor vane is standard. The rudder shaft is protected 360 degrees by a replaceable safety tube that collapses under extreme loads or impacts. Scanmar, the California manufacturer and dealer for several vanes, is known for good customer support and maintains a record of every Monitor. The Monitor has an emergency-rudder system that can be mounted on the pendulum rudder.

Sailomat 601: Sailomat’s fourth design in its familiar series of servo-pendulum vanes differs from the basic Aries design. The steering-control lines are attached above the pendulum’s point of suspension so the lines don’t need to cross before reaching a tiller. Remote course control for the vane position is optional. Forward impact protection is with a plastic composite sheer pin, and lateral overload protection is built in by its design, which allows the pendulum rudder to swing 170 degrees side to side—also useful when you’re in port or motoring. Rather than rely on bevel gears for the linkage from the sensor vane to the pendulum rudder, the Sailomat uses a universal linkage and a ball-and-socket joint, with solid Delrin bearings to reduce friction. This variable linkage allows you to adjust the vane-to-rudder ratio to suit varying wind and sea conditions. Yaw damping is provided by the angled pendulum rudder blade, which neatly follows the lines of many reverse transom boats. Body construction is cast silumin (an aluminum alloy) that’s chromated, wash primed, and painted with two coats of polyurethane paint. The solid, 1.6-inch-diameter shaft and large-diameter tubing (2.4-inch diameter with .24-inch wall thickness) is made of 6061 T6 aluminum alloy. Mixed Delrin and Torlon/PEEK roller bearings reduce shaft friction. Thread inserts insulate the stainless-steel fasteners from the aluminum. You can detach the Sailomat from the boat’s transom by undoing two bolts, making it one of the easiest to remove completely. Its compact setup occupies less horizontal space on the stern, but because the first set of lead blocks for the tiller control lines is mounted on the boat, an optional block holder will be required for some double enders. The unit features an optional emergency rudder.

Windpilot Pacific: The Windpilot Pacific melds two distinct design features: The steering-control lines attach to a lever above the pendulum rudder’s point of suspension; a 2-to-1 bevel-gear linkage between the vane sensor and servo-blade provides yaw-damping. This combination is made possible by 360-degree bevel gears, which let the servo-rudder swing up under lateral loads and make it easy to raise the rudder when it’s not in use. Adjustable friction plates securing the hemlock-and-epoxy rudder allow the rudder to kick up under fore-and-aft impact. You can adjust power transmission to the wheel or tiller by raising or lowering the point where the steering-control lines attach to the unit. The wheel coupling works like a disc break, allowing infinite adjustment. The vane sensor can be easily tilted back to reduce sensitivity and dampen motion. Body construction is cast aluminum (AlMg5) and 2.4-inch-diameter corrosion-resistant aluminum (AlMgSi5 F22) tubing, with a wall thickness ranging from .20 (in the vane tower) to .24-inches (in the rudder-shaft tube). The manufacturer uses no ball or roller bearings, preferring instead sliding bushings and sleeve bearings. Five different variable flanges facilitate installation on virtually any transom. You can remove the unit by undoing two bolts.

Fleming Global Major Series: Fleming, like the Windpilot, has the reverse servo arrangement to keep the unit compact, and keeps the 2-to-1 beveled-gear linkage between vane sensor and servo blade. The Fleming comes with both standard and storm sensor vanes made of polycarbonate. Its most noteworthy feature is its stainless-steel construction: high-grade (2205) castings and thick-walled 16-gauge stainless-steel tubing, with no structural welds. The bevel gears are also cast stainless steel. Delrin races for the stainless-steel bearings (needle bearings at the vane-to-rudder linkage, ball bearings at the rudder shaft) allow for easy removal. A 360-degree worm drive controlling the sensor-vane position can be operated by an endless line. Lateral overload protection for the stainless-steel rudder is by design, which allows the blade to lift completely out of the water (like the Sailomat and Windpilot). Forward impact protection is through a sheer pin on the hinged servo-rudder

Fleming offers a variety of mounting options, including one to accommodate open-transom boats.

Norvane: A relative newcomer, Norvane uses investment cast stainless steel and 316 stainless-steel tubing. It employs a reverse-servo design similar to the Fleming. Features include a polycarbonate sensor vane (two sizes) and two adjustable counterweights, which can be raised or lowered to change sensitivity or accommodate different vane sizes. Norvane also incorporates glass ball bearings in Delrin races on the vane sensor and the gear linkages and stainless-steel ball bearings in Delrin races on the servo-rudder shaft. Overload protection is through a breakaway tube on the pendulum shaft. The Norvane features a square socket joint to attach an optional emergency tiller. An emergency rudder is available. Mounting options fit a wide range of transoms.

Navik: This small, mostly 304 stainless-steel unit has been used successfully on Mini-Transat boats and many medium-displacement boats up to about 33 feet LOA. It’s not recommended for larger, heavy-displacement boats. The vane sensor is linked to a trim tab on the pendulum rudder, so that the underwater portion requires only minimal impulse from the vane. Control lines that run through a quadrant have the same effect as the reverse-servo arrangement in other vanes: lines to the tiller do not need to be crossed. The linkages on the Navik are carried out through ball-and-socket joints and a series of linked levers. These small parts are not as robust as the linkages in other servo-pendulum rudders. The Navik’s rudder has a sensitive overload protection that releases the oar on impact. It’s wide-swinging arc protects against lateral overload.

Cape Horn: A compact, stainless-steel unit, the Cape Horn introduces some novel changes to the basic design. The vane-to-servo-pendulum linkage uses a horizontal stainless-steel “Z bar” that reduces the number of moving parts. This arrangement allows a mounting option that conceals belowdecks part of the system, including most of the control lines to the tiller or wheel, and does away with the wheel adapter. A stainless-steel tube (3.25 inches outside diameter) is glass-laminated through the transom. Pivoting inside that tube, another smaller tube links the servo-rudder to a quadrant inside the lazarette. As the servo-blade swings, the inboard windvane quadrant rotates. Control lines are led through blocks attached to the boat’s steering quadrant (or tiller), then to a pair of jam cleats in the cockpit for quick disconnect or trim adjustment. The Cape Horn vane is the only servo-pendulum we look at this month that is recommended for hydraulically steered boats.

Installing the Cape Horn system belowdecks may not be suited to every boat. For this reason, Cape Horn also offers three conventional outboard models, with the control lines above the deck.

Read Part 2 of this article here .

Darrell Nicholson is a Cruising World associate editor. Contributing editor Michel Savage helped research this article.

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A Guide to Equipping Your Boat with a Windvane

Daniel Collins provides a summary of the major choices involved in the purchase of new self-steering gear. 

A common piece of equipment found on the modern offshore cruising sailboats is the autopilot. Whether it is an electronic unit, a windvane, or both, the need to relieve the helmsman from steering duty is essential to making safe passages, especially when sailing short of singlehanded.

The major choices when faced with the purchase of new self-steering gear are: What conditions the unit is expected to perform in; what are the possible failure modes; what are the challenges when mounting the components to the boat; and last but not least, how much should ongoing maintenance and the expected service life of the gear be considered?

Trim Tab Steering A trim tab windvane, less commonly seen by major manufacturers today, was the forerunner of the modern windvane system and works by affixing a small “trim tab” to the main rudder.  This trim tab is easily moved due to a small surface area, and the windvane’s power is sufficient enough to kick it to one side or the other. As the trim tab swings, it creates a significant water force, causing the ship’s main rudder to move opposite, and this motion of the main rudder is able to steer the vessel. Though this sounds complicated, it works rather well and was a predominant form of steering for many offshore boats until the servo-pendulum was developed.  It had a major drawback, though, in that it could not be fitted to a boat where the trailing edge of the rudder was difficult to access, as in the case of counter sterns.

The servo-pendulum system is the “classic” windvane, with a small servo blade that looks like the windvane’s rudder in the water, and a larger windvane “paddle” in the air.  As the vane tips to one side or the other, the servo blade turns in the water like a mini rudder, but this doesn’t generate sufficient force to steer the boat by itself. Instead, as the rudder turns, the water flowing past it swings it to one side or the other.

For a similar analogy, think of when you stick your hand outside a car window while moving. If you turn your hand sideways and “fly” it like an airplane wing, as you change the angle of your hand the air pushes it up or down. This servo rudder does that same thing in the water, and the force of the water pushing it to one side or the other is surprisingly powerful. This force is then used to turn the main rudder through lines that are affixed to the tiller or wheel of the boat.

The servo-pendulum is rather complicated as it has many moving parts and the constantly moving lines can chafe over long passages. In addition, the variety of moving joints and frequent oscillation cause certain models to have a reputation for breaking down mid-passage; to the immense frustration of their skippers. Thus, it is important to understand the issues facing the specific brand and series of the servo-pendulum you may wish to purchase, as well as to gather a general feel for its reputation in the offshore community as the quality of these devices varies greatly, even from the same manufacturer, as improvements were made from year to year or model to model.

To reduce the complexity of the installation, the auxiliary rudder windvane was invented.

Auxiliary Rudder Vane The auxiliary rudder windvane works on an entirely different principle than the other two types. Instead of the windvane, with its low power, moving a small rudder tab or servo blade to increase power before steering the boat, the auxiliary rudder windvane uses a very powerful vane to directly steer a balanced rudder. There is no connection to the boat’s rudder and typically the boat’s rudder is left centered or angled very slightly to balance the helm. Auxiliary rudder windvanes put a tremendous amount of force on the vane, rudder and boat mounting points, as they are directly steering the boat. This makes it more essential to buy an extremely well made model, as there is very little tolerance for poorly designed gear under these stresses. A well-made system, however, is exceptionally reliable offshore because it only has a few moving parts and no critical lines that can chafe through. A good auxiliary rudder system has the added advantage of being able to serve, in many cases, as a “spare” or “emergency” rudder should something happen to the main rudder or steering system. This feature has helped several sailors return safely to port after catastrophic steering failure offshore.

MAJOR CONSIDERATIONS While windvanes do not require any electricity to operate, and thus tend to be preferred by the offshore sailing crowd, they require a lot of care in mounting, installation, and use. Windvanes are only useful, of course, when the wind is blowing from a consistent direction and with a reasonable amount of force to power the vane. For most systems, five knots is sufficient, but as the wind becomes variable or gusty, the change in apparent wind angle is enough to cause the vane to behave erratically until the wind stabilizes somewhat. As a result, they tend to be most useful in longer passages, particularly in clear air.

Additionally, the mounting of a wind vane system must be extremely strong and rigid, particularly for auxiliary rudder vanes, which exert full rudder forces on their mounting points.  Because of this, the mounting system for most vanes spreads the load across many parts of the transom and can obstruct or prevent the installation of other equipment such as arches, davits, outboard motor mounts or swim platforms. Consult with the manufacturer to get diagrams of the necessary space required and mounting options before committing to a given design.

Also, if you are considering a trim-tab or servo-pendulum system, note that additional modifications to your boat may be required to provide strong and solid fairleads for the control lines, to attach those lines to your wheel or tiller, and in the special case of a trim-tab, to affix the tab to the ship’s rudder. These considerations can be a significant part of the installation effort and expense, so plan your install carefully as these details are often the weak points that bring grief to otherwise solid and reliable vane gear.

Lastly, consider the air you are putting the vane portion of the self-steering into: Is it obstructed by arches, solar panels, dodgers or turbulent air off the mainsail?  In many cases, some of this is unavoidable, so consult with the manufacturer to determine if the obstruction is significant enough to cause an issue with the vane getting clear air to properly steer by. Many vanes stick up far enough to get above deck and cockpit objects, so make sure there is nothing above the vane such as dinghy davits or mizzen sails to obstruct the full range of the vane’s motion.

COMMON FAILURE MODES The windvane is, in general, an exceptionally reliable piece of gear if it is suitable for your boat, and maintained and manufactured properly. However, failures do occur, most notably on trim-tab and servo pendulum systems. Excessive chafe on control lines, control line fairlead breakdown, and screw or retaining pin failure on part of the gear mechanism are the common offshore issues. Fortunately, replacing the lines is not difficult, and spares are easy to carry and refit. If a key vane component goes into the water though, replacing it at sea, even if a spare is carried, can often be impossible in all but the calmest conditions. Therefore, maintaining vane gear and keeping a lanyard or tether on the most critical components is essential.

For instance, with offshore sailors the first and foremost consideration is usually that the unit be able to function at all times in nearly all but the most extreme survival weather and require the least amount of crew interaction necessary. This necessitates that the unit be able to operate independently of electrical systems or engine function, and thus often swings the offshore sailor’s preference in favor of a windvane.

However, if the sailor has a very well equipped yacht, with redundant and ample power supplies, or if he or she expects to motor as much or more than sail, during which electricity is provided by the engine’s operation, an electronic autopilot may make more sense.

For many sailors with the budget, having both a windvane and an electronic autopilot may be a good solution, keeping in mind the situations in which either will be needed. But armed with the awareness of how and where each of the major self-steering types are most useful and in what ways they are often unsuitable, a wise skipper can make the most sensible decision for his vessel and sailing intentions.

Daniel Collins, an ASA certified sailing and navigation instructor, amateur extra class radio operator and small boat racer, enjoys experimenting with marine electronics. He is also actively involved in community-driven social change. Email him at [email protected], or read his blog at www.oddasea.com . He owns Aletheia, an Allied Princess.

Cape Horn Marine Products www.capehorn.com

Hydrovane www.hydrovane.com

Sailomat International www.sailomat.com

Scanmar International products include the Monitor Windvane and Auto-Helm Windvane www.selfsteer.com

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Windvane steering: why it makes sense for coastal cruising

• Will Bruton
• October 15, 2018

No electricity needed, built for gale-force conditions and currently experiencing 
something of a renaissance amongst 
cruisers; windvane self-steering makes sense for coastal cruisers as much as 
offshore voyagers. Will Bruton took 
an in depth look at the options 
and how they work.

‘The distance run was 2,700 miles as the crow flies. During those 23 days I had not spent more than three hours at the helm. I just lashed the helm and let her go; whether the wind was abeam or dead aft, it was all the same: she always stayed on her course,’ wrote Joshua Slocum in 1895.

The ability of his long-keeled Spray to hold course without input from the helm was instrumental 
in making her the first yacht to circumnavigate single-handed.

Few modern boats bear these inherently balanced characteristics, so some form of autopilot is necessary to allow the skipper to rest.

Even for crewed passages, it can take an enormous strain off the crew without draining the battery. Some insurance companies even count windvane steering as an additional crew member, such is its contribution to life on board.

Unlike an electronic autopilot, self-steering needs no power

One solution experiencing something of a renaissance, is windvane self-steering.

Requiring no electricity, mechanical self-steering gear was first designed in an age when autopilots were the preserve of large ships and heavy motor cruisers. The principle is relatively simple and pure physics.

What mechanical self-steering cannot do is hold your yacht on a compass course. However, as anyone that’s experienced a sudden wind shift or squall whilst away from the helm knows, steering to a wind angle is preferable most of the time as you are far less likely to crash gybe, and the sails remain correctly set.

Self-steering gear achieves this by presenting a vane directly into the wind. When the wind acts on either side of this vane, it tips, transferring this action through the mechanism below to either a rudder or a servo pendulum which acts on the main rudder, altering the boat’s course.

The two main systems

Servo-pendulum

A derivative of the servo-trim tab principle invented by Blondie Hasler, servo-pendulum self steering gear uses the speed of the yacht going through the water to push against the servo-paddle, creating a substantial force, which is then transferred to the yacht’s own tiller or wheel by control lines.

The wind itself does not provide the power for the steering; rather it adjusts the angle of the paddle, relying on the hydro-mechanical energy of the boat going through the water to do the work of steering the boat.

Popular before the advent of the small craft electronic autopilot, it’s particularly well suited to yachts under 40ft in length, and can be swung out of the water when not in use.

There are now several derivatives, including some available as a self-build kit. Amongst the Golden Globe Race entrants, models included Aries, Monitor, Windpilot and Beaufort systems.

One disadvantage of the servo-pendulum gear is that it uses the yacht’s rudder, meaning it does not double up as an emergency rudder should the yacht’s steering be disabled, although some servo-pendulums can be adapted.

Direct drive systems

Wind vane steering linked to a secondary rudder is the most inherently simple of the mechanical self-steering systems, but relies on a much more powerful transmission of force between a large-surface-area wind vane and the system’s own independent rudder.

Direct drive systems feature a large fully independent auxiliary rudder

This has the advantage of ensuring 
a back up steering method is already on board but also requires a heavy-duty installation to bear the load and strain that will be exerted.

One of the most popular models is the Hydrovane, which is now available in several different sizes and shapes depending on 
the boat it is being installed on.

The size 
and shape of the fabric-covered windvane is directly proportional to the size of yacht, and has been installed successfully on yachts in excess of 50ft in length, including multihulls.

When the boat veers off course, the 
wind hits the vane on one side or the other, deflecting it away from the vertical.

This then acts on a gear that converts 
this sideways movement into rotation to directly steer a relatively large rudder suspended from the boat’s transom via 
the installation framework.

Setting up windvane steering

Balancing the boat.

‘Before doing anything, you have to get the boat sailing well. It demands you take the time to get your boat properly balanced, correctly reefed and with no weather helms; so it actually makes you a better sailor!’ explains Nick Nottingham, who recently fitted a Hydrovane to his Hallberg-Rassy 42, Spellbinder . Nick is about to use the system on an Atlantic circuit.

Self-steering relies on a well balanced boat. As the wind shifts, the mechanism corrects

Self-steering gear works by adjusting the yacht’s course in relation to the apparent wind. The first step to making this work as efficiently as possible is to balance the boat and reduce the amount of input required.

Sailing conventionally, the yacht should be easy on the helm and not overpowered.

Setting the system for the conditions

Whether servo-pendulum or direct drive, most self-steering systems have one or more methods of adjustment for the conditions. In light airs, the wind vane will be exposed as much as possible to the wind, to exert the maximum force on the system, whereas in heavier weather, the vane’s height can be lowered, reducing the force acting on the system.

Some systems, like the Hydrovane, Monitor and Beaufort have different sized vanes that can be swapped, while the Windpilot and Aries allow the vane to be raked aft, presenting a shorter level.

With the wind vane attached, you are ready to remove the locking pin and engage the steering mechanism

On some set ups, the power exerted on the steering system can also be adjusted at the point where the wind vane meets its pivot, just like changing sensitivity on an electronic autopilot. By controlling the rotation of the rudder or paddle created by the windvane, you control how aggressively the system corrects the boat’s course.

Changing the gearing at the point where the wind input creates the steering output achieve an increase or decrease of ratio.

Engaging the system

To engage the system, set the yacht on course and adjust the wind vane so that the wind is flowing over it with the least resistance, like a blade.

If you a using a system with its own rudder, centralise and lock the yacht’s main rudder, simultaneously engaging the self-steering mechanism.

Once engaged, monitor how the system adjusts and double check your sails are trimmed correctly.

As the vane moves it will adjust the steering accordingly.

In heavy weather, reduce the system’s power to ensure the least amount of strain.

Self-steering systems work efficiently in strong winds but most will steer comfortably in light airs as well.

Course adjustments

When the wind vane is vertical, you are on course. When the vane is deflected, the system is adjusting course.

Changing the direction you want to go in is simply a matter of altering the self-steering system’s vane angle relative to the wind.

On most systems this is achieved by a steering line that can be run into the safety of the cockpit, meaning you do not necessarily need to adjust the vane itself directly.

Make small adjustments until the yacht comes onto the desired course, trimming the sails appropriately.

A standalone system?

Whilst self-steering systems offer a much more resilient option than an electronic autopilot for heavy weather, when there is no sailing wind, they cease to be useful.

Here an electronic tillerpilot has been plugged directly into the Hydrovane auxiliary rudder

For this reason, most cruisers also have a conventional electronic autopilot on board to steer under engine.

In the case of systems incorporating a rudder, many also make it possible to easily engage a tiller pilot onto the system’s auxiliary rudder for use under engine.

Self-steering on the Golden Globe Race

If there’s one place that mechanical 
self-steering fandom bordered on the evangelical this year, it was at the start of 
the Golden Globe Race .

50 years previously, Robin Knox-Johnston’s world first single-handed circumnavigation was steered by his own self-steering gear system until it failed 
near Australia.

Restored to her former glory, 
Knox-Johnston’s Suhaili joined the parade; along with Indian competitor Abhilash Tommy’s replica yacht Thuriya , which sports a commercially made Windpilot servo-pendulum system.

Self-steering gear on Suhaili. Credit: Nic Compton/Alamy Stock Photo

With this year’s revival competition using 1960’s technology and electronic wizardry strictly prohibited, mechanical self-steering systems are effectively the only option for competitors. Each has chosen carefully.

Competitors in the race are using a variety of systems including Hydrovane, Aries, Monitor, Windpilot and Beaufort.

Due to the nature of the boats competing being long keeled, they are ideally suited to mechanical self-steering, naturally holding course better than a modern hull. However, should systems fail and prove unrepairable, it will be hard 
for them to remain competitive in the race.

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How it works: Self-steering Windvane

• November 27th, 2023
• Product Test

“She is a true beauty!”, those were my first words as I finally stopped in front of BIBI, a spotless Rustler 36, moored right at the end of the long pontoon in Les Sables d´Olonne . Her skipper, Andrea Lodolo, had invited me to come and see her and it was a no-brainer to identify her: Not many boats these days are rigged Solent-style, even lesser bear those classic lines. BIBI is a huge box of chocolates stuffed with everything you´d need for a serious circumnavigation.

The boat has recently been completely re-furbished by the Rustler shipyard in Falmouth with her skipper sparing no cost to have the boat structurally and visually brought to a “near new” state. Various partners had installed surplus equipment on the boat needed for long passage sailing, more than that, needed for solo-sailing long passages. Andrea Lodolo is listed as skipper participating in the upcoming Golden Globe Race of 2026. For the first of my articles on BIBI and her skipper, I picked one particular detail which I always wanted to write about: The mechanical self-steering windvane. Andrea agreed to demonstrate the basic functions, so here we go …

Pros and cons of a self-steering windvane

First of all, the advantages of having a mechanical self-steering aboard are clear: No energy or fuel consumption, operation in a 24/7-mode for weeks and even months is no problem. With the systems perfected over decades with hundreds of sailors and literally millions of nautical miles experience, these systems are rugged and refined. With as less parts as possible and those parts all virtually repairable and replacable, those systems are near fail-safe. In the Golden Globe Race, of course, where only AIS is a concession to modern times, the windvane is an absolute essential part of the boat. Andrea Lodolo went for the Canadian brand Hydrovane.

There are not many cons regarding this system. One is that the installation of this system kind of “ruins” the clean and neat lines of a boat. The frame and the vane itself is huge: An electric or hydraulic autopilot of course is “hidden” and won´t alter the outward appearance of a boat. Nevertheless, think the other way around, with a windvane your boat will look like a “real” go anyway boat. Secondly, the windvane inherently can only steer a certain course relative to the wind-angle. It will change course accordingly when the wind shifts – later more on that. So, Andrea, show us how the Hydrovane is “activated”.

How it works: Setting up the Hydrovane

I was surprised how easy and fast this system is indeed ready to go. There are two pins which have to be removed, just like in a aeroplane. When this is done, both the windvane itself and the attached rudder down in the water are free to rotate and move. Andrea tells me that these pins are essential and that he secures them thoroughly and has a total of four spare pins for his adventure.

The second step was very hard to take a picture of, because words in this matter describe it better: Relative to the wind-direction and the desired course to this wind, the vane must be adjusted. So first the boat is put to the course the skipper wants to steer. Now the windvane, by rotating it, is set to be facing the wind direction in exactly the same angle the wind hits the boat from aside. That´s basically it …

Andrea now demonstrates what happens, when the boat – driven by currents or waves – veers off course. Then the angle of the wind hits the vane from either the right or the left hand side. It then pushes the wind vane to either of those two sides agains a small counterweight that sits beneath the pivot of the vane. When this happens, the left-right swinging movement of the windvane is translated into the rotation of a cogwheel. This cogwheel, in a 45-degree-angle, is connected to another corresponding cogwheel that sits on top of what is basically the rudder shaft. The turning of those wheels makes the shaft turn, thus giving a rudder impulse making the boat turn.

Because this simple “gear” is set up in a way that a veering off to starboard will result in a ruder impulse to port side, the boat will counter the initial course change until the wind vane is again dead in the wind: Hence no more swinging, no rudder, midship back on the old course. In reality the boat, depending on the swell and the severity of its own weather helm, will follow a “snake” course of luffing and bearing away from the actual course. A phenomenon electric or hydraulic systems have as well. The Hydrovane is so simple that the whole demonstration lasted no longer than two minutes. Of course, Andrea has trained a lot and certainly there are details and fine tuning tricks, but I was astonished of how conveniently easy it all works.

Pro-tipp: Quick reaction/mechanical remote control

Rather interesting was a detail he showed to me, I never had heard of in the first place regarding the self-steering windvane: A quick reaction-setup and in a way also a “remote control” for the wind vane. He said that in severe weather with very high waves it can be dangerous to haul oneself out over the aft coamings to re-adjust the angle of the vane when needed. Also, when a sudden hefty change in wind direction or a gust demands a quick turning of the adjusting wheel.

For this, there is a separate wheel and an endless loop-line connected to it. This has exactly the length of the cockpit. By means of a clip and a rubber band this band is strapped to one of the cleats next to the entryway and thus put under tension. Now, because this is a loop, Andrea can pull either one of those two lines, making the wheel at the end of the boat turn either left or right.

In doing so, he can make the vane turn into the wind very fast, hopefully before the gust of the windshift will make his boat turn and – by chance – turn into the waves which can cause serious trouble. Also, in shitty weather, he can sit there underneath his soon to be installed dodger to fine-tune the angle of the windvane as well. A pretty neat solution and again, wonderfully easy.

I can only imaging the harsh reality of the roaring forties and I cannot comprehend what it can be like in the furious Fifties, but I am sure that this system is increasing the safety for Andrea and all the other skippers using the Hydrovane manyfold.

Speaking of safety …

I remember talking to Golden Globe Race finisher Istvan Koper who circumvented the Earth in his boat in 2018/19, he told me that his windvane (it was a different brand than Andrea´s self-steering) broke pretty early on in the race. So I ask Andrea about his feelings regarding the rigidity of his self-steering, repairability and spare parts. Of course, he says, thinks can break – more so in the face of one of the most remote and violent places BIBI is going to sail, but tries to be prepared.

For that, he carries a complete spare vane frame in case all too violent gusts or turns will beak the aluminium frame. Also, he has a spare vane canvas that is to span onto the frame itself. Being a canvas, those of course can rip apart or get punctured. To me the whole mechanism, albeit being surprisingly nimble and quickly reacting (there is very little force needed to turn the rudder) made quite a rigid impression.

Lastly, Andrea pointed to an extension on the rudder shaft of the mechanism: This is where an emergency tiller could be mounted very quickly and easily. The Rustler 36 is a long keeled classic full-displacement yacht, very stable, very seaworthy and one of the handful of choices most GGR participants opted for. A long, very thick rudder and a solid tiller – I can´t imagine anything that could break this, not even a “playful” Orca . But it´s certainly good to have a fallback.

So much more to explore

Two guys jump aboard the boat, in the meantime the Les Sables autumn sun stands a bit higher, illuminating this unusually warm and calm mid-November morning in a golden shine. Andrea begs himself off, to brief one of the guys for further installations on BIBI. The second one turns out to be his sailing mate, today both are going to test the new inflatable dinghy. Andrea´s Rustler 36 is equipped already with anything a skipper might wish for his journey. In preparation for the Golden Globe Race, Andrea is going to sail her during the winter right here in Les Sables d´Olonne, where the rough Atlantic Seas finally smash against Europe after being stirred up on their way over the ocean. He invites me for a follow up – so much more to see, so many details to write about.

Seldom have I met a guy so determined, so calm but yet full of action. A guy who conveys the trust and the self-confidence, brings the experience and also the curiosity that is needed to tackle what he is about to do: Embarking on the possibly one of the biggest adventures a sailor can participate in. Im am sure, BIBI, his beautiful yet rugged Rustler 36, won´t let him down.

You may be interested in those related articles too:

Istvan Kopar on his Golden Globe Race 2018/19

Setting up a B&G autopilot

What is the ideal bluewater cruising yacht?

Introduction

Imagine sailing – powered by the wind, and steered by the wind. Just you, your boat, the wind and the ocean. Hydrovane has been steering dreams for over 50 years. We would be delighted to be a part of yours.

…the windvane will make a comeback as a new generation of eco-aware sailors begin to reassess the value of simplicity and a brilliant piece of kit that needs no power.” – David Glenn, Editor of Yachting World

What is a Hydrovane?

Hydrovane is both:, a self steering windvane system.

A completely independent mechanical system (ie. non-electrical) that steers the boat on a wind-based course. Easiest to operate, with no lines in the cockpit, and excellent on all points of sail and in all conditions.

An Emergency Rudder/ Steering System

Inherently a second Rudder and Steering System for your boat.

How do I set it up  TO STEER?

Four easy steps:.

• Trim the sails to the course – so the boat is comfortable holding that course
• Set the vane with its leading edge into the wind – as if “in irons”
• Lock main rudder in the ‘on course’ position that compensates for, or eliminates any weather helm
• Click the Hydrovane into gear – just move the ratio knob from neutral into gear

… The Hydrovane rudder is then steering the boat!

As the boat falls off course, the apparent wind angle changes and drives the vane over. The movement of the vane is linked to turn the Hydrovane rudder down below to bring you back on course.

As with any windvane, you are being steering on an apparent wind-based course, an angle to the wind. As the wind shifts, your heading will also shift. A wind based course is ideal for offshore sailors because it means your boat is always trimmed properly. In the tradewinds, we’ve experienced days on end without having to touch the vane.

To adjust your heading, simply pull on the ‘remote course setting line’ that is set up within reach of the cockpit, to adjust the angle of the vane to the wind. Trim your sails according to the new point of sail.

What will a Hydrovane do for me?

Be a dependable extra crew member.

• On duty 24 hours a day to steer the boat
• Quietly and naturally performs its duties … needs no attention, no food, and never talks back!
• Consumes no power… reduces your reliance on charging systems and electronics
• Is the primary workhorse of all your passages
• Just as diesel engines have not replaced sails as the best method of crossing an ocean, autopilots cannot beat the quiet reliability of mechanical self steering

Allow you to Enjoy Short-Handed Sailing

• User friendly – users marvel that when put into gear that it ‘just works’ with no tedious tuning required
• Gives you added confidence in your boat and equipment
• Improves the vessel motion – with the main rudder locked in a position that eliminates weather helm the boat becomes naturally stable
• Allows you time and energy to tend to tasks other than steering
• Greatly reduces your daily power consumption when not running an autopilot – or allows you to use that power elsewhere

Provides Peace of Mind for the “What If’s”?…

• Autopilot fails
• Batteries are low
• Engine won’t start
• Steering broken
• Main rudder lost
• Crew incapacitated

The Hydrovane quells all these fears.

We invite you to feel the freedom of sailing with a Hydrovane. Whether it’s ten miles or thousands of miles, Hydrovane will steer you safely. For ease of use, versatility, and reliability, Hydrovane surpasses all other systems.

Let Hydrovane be your best partner in achieving your dream.

Windvane Self Steering Webinar

Sarah and Will Curry recorded this webinar in March 2021 as part of the World Cruising Club ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers) Preparation series.

This webinar is an introduction to windvane self steering, a Hydrovane demonstration, and includes a Q&A period at the end from viewers all over the world.

 Email us: [email protected] | Phone: (510) 215 - 2010

Windvane Steering

Windvane self-steering options fall into two categories, servo pendulum and auxiliary rudder. Servo pendulum solutions utilize your boat’s own rudder and as the name suggests, auxiliary rudder products work with a separate, independent rudder system.

We believe servo-pendulum systems like the Monitor are usually your best option. They are more powerful, and perform better across a wider range of conditions on most boats and never require assistance from your autopilot.

You'll find a comprehensive review of the comparative merits of both systems at " Auxiliary Rudder vs. Servo-Pendulum " in our library.

At Scanmar, we manufacture the Monitor Windvane servo pendulum system, and the Saye’s Rig, which is often the best choice for very large boats with high freeboard.

Whatever your unique requirements, we have a self-steering solution for you.

The Monitor and TopHat 

Saye's rig.

Hydrovane ® – Your best crew member

Hydrovane® at a glance, the hydrovane self-steering windvane is both a mechanical self-steering windvane for offshore sailboats and an emergency rudder..

With our Hydrovane ® wind-control systems, we offer a combination of wind-vane control and an always-ready emergency rudder, suitable for every stern.

Off-centre assembly, even for modern yachts with bathing platforms, tailgates and catamarans, can be subsequently equipped. These systems are the first choice for many blue-water sailors today. tom logisch is also specialised in installations on large catamarans.

key benefits

Advantages of using hydrovane self-steering windvane solutions.

• Suitable for all blue-water yachts – for all yacht sterns and catamarans
• Off-centre installation possible – for all modern yachts with bathing platforms
• Emergency rudder ready for use at any time – a considerable safety benefit
• Simple operation – ready for use in four simple steps
• Independent rudder – no connection to the main rudder
• No lines across the cockpit – therefore also suitable for hydraulic controls/centre cockpits
• Adjustable wind vane for heavy yachts
• Worldwide services + ARC services
• Assembly and installation by tom logisch

Please see our tom logisch installation service +

Hydrovane – Your best crew member

Last updated: 21 Aug 2023

• Hydrovane ® YW press article, August 2012 + (PDF)
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Privacy Overview

Mister Vee offer the lightest* and most sensitive windvane self steering.

*10 KG/22 lbs

Navik replacement parts , since 2011

Buy mister vee self steering systems and navik replacement parts from our webshop.

Welcome to Mister Vee!

- The lightest* and most sensitive windvane self steering , since 2006.

- Navik replacement parts, since 2011

I love the overall design of the windvane and it has completely revolutionised my sailing as I have been doing long single handed passages over multiple days. It is simply, functional and steers the boat great. The use of lightweight materials is great as my boat is relatively small and quite weight sensitive when balancing the boat. It is also incredibly strong and I have no doubt that it will go on for years to come.  Tom

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Hebridean self-steering wind vane

“well worth investigating”

TOM CUNLIFFE The Complete Ocean Skipper

“I’m impressed… the vane performed well on all points of sail, including downwind… the servo pendulum system took control to the extent that it could sail a course with the sails badly set” DAVID PUGH Editor, Practical Boat Owner

Build your own servo-pendulum wind vane from a kit

The Hebridean wind vane is an innovative version of the tried and tested servo-pendulum self steering system for sailing boats steered by tiller or wheel. The Hebridean  has crossed Atlantic and Pacific oceans but is also quick and easy to mount for weekend coastal sailing or jaunts across the Channel, Minch or other strait/sea.

Stern freeboard The kit fits yachts with stern freeboards from 600-1000mm (stationary). It is designed specifically for DIY construction. The Hebridean can be tilted up out of the water or lifted off the stern and stored on the guard wires. Or partially dismantled for storage below.

Horizontal vane axle The Hebridean is the only serv0-pendulum vane with an actual horizontal vane axle. One of its unique design features allowing boosted performance, simplified construction and enhanced efficiency in all conditions. John Fleming’s analytical genius was responsible for the innovative geometry on which this landmark development in servo-pendulum windvane design depends.

Simplicity For confidence at sea or in remote locations, the simplicity of its components and assembly crucially allows the unit to be maintained with tools usually found onboard. Building the Hebridean yourself is a hands-on “course” providing you not only with a good understanding of its workings, but also substantial confidence in your ability to maintain it anywhere.

Wood When sourcing your own wood you need 4m of suitable hardwood at 145 x 20mm (EU standard). The longest plank is 1800mm to make the pendulum/paddle for 1000mm height transoms. Here is the wood cutting plan .

Affordable The Hebridean offers DIY sailors the opportunity to build an affordable wind vane in wood and stainless steel, with no welding, bearings or plastic cogs in the main H2 Kit. (there is one worm and wheel in the optional Remote Course Adjustment Kit which can be viewed in action in this youtube video ). All the metal components are prefabricated (drilling and some surface finishing required) ready for you to bolt to the wooden frame. The build requires basic wood-work skills and tools. And several days of absorbing and highly rewarding work.

Wheel steering too A “drum” kit for connecting the Hebridean to wheel steering is available.

Shipping For shipping costs, please contact me at the email address below with your full name, delivery address and phone number (required by carrier) for a quotation.

Kit prices Prices are listed on our Prices & Ordering page.

A section by section video from Hebridean builder, Ian French Thank you Ian!

• Part 1 Intro and frame: Intro & Frame
• Part 2 Turret and Vane : Turret & Vane
• Part 3 Fixtures and fittings : Fixtures & Fittings
• Part 4 Servo Rudder: Servo Rudder
• Part 5 Boat mounting: Boat Mounting
• Part 6 Testing the wind vane: Testing the Wind Vane
• Part 7 Wind vane in action
• Part 8 See the remote steering mechanism being assembled . The single weld required in Part 8 is completed by us before kit dispatch.
• Part 9 Preparing Remote Control Lines

See the Hebridean in action

• Videos shot in Scotland in varying sea and wind conditions Scotland Sea Trials
• Trials over 8 years of coastal and off-shore sailing by John Fleming, the designer of the Hebridean Wind Vane The Hebridean in action.
• Emmanuel sailing on Lake Geneva with Mont Blanc in the background Wind Vane in action on Lake Geneva
• Mounted on the 45 degree rudder stock of a Twister off the Scilly Isles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNlZHFFseB0
• Finnish archipelago Sailing https://photos.app.goo.gl/hYWTEcJhbdX3WGe39
• Wheel steering , all beautifully finished, on Al Hanson’s Pearson 31-2. Al’s video also features his removable Hebridean mounting solution attached to his folding transom boarding ladder.
• 1912 Falmouth Quay Punt Plymouth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6BIxYQUPiM
• Wind vane and dolphins off Fair Isle https://vimeo.com/136486631
• Courtesy Tom Fisher on “Angus” The Hebridean Wind Vane in action in strong winds 25/5/17 Bermuda to Azores https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Po-oXzVaIAk
• Kristian Møller Pedersen’s first day out with the Hebridean on trial after having completing the wind vane also see testimonials page   https://youtu.be/d2fjzbkh0dU
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yg7JgwH6Y58
• https://youtu.be/1090Z-dK2Ys
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjAUfm-i6Yw
• Hebridean mounted on top of rudder stock on a canoe stern sailing off Canary Islands Hebridean in use in Canary Islands
• An afternoon sail in 10 to 15 knots on Port Phillip Bay watch-v=QBx0ywAjMCA&feature=youtu.be
• Video of the “drum” kit watch-v=4KLWJbYYOF0&feature=youtu.be

Frequently Asked Questions

John Fleming  1951 – 2023 teacher   yachtsman   inventor   thinker  

Here is a 10 minute video tribute to the Hebridean’s designer, John Fleming. It was aired at his life celebration in The Tip i at his family home, The Dell, Nethy Bridge, 19 April 2023. https://www.sgmarkphotography.com/Client-Area/John-Fleming  Use password sleepyeagle (the name of John’s Pioneer 10).

Notice from Ian Kirkwood

When John’s health got worse, he asked me again to take on the project. I am an enthusiastic fan of his highly ingenious version of the servo-pendulum self steering-system. I sailed in company with John on and off for a decade — using my own Hebridean (I was his first customer in 2013).

Our Hebrideans steered us around Scotland’s northwest coast and isles. We made three trips in company to the Faroe Islands. On the first of these I sailed happily solo. All thanks to the Hebridean. Dying winds foiled an attempt to reach Iceland: our boats lay calmly hove-to overnight a few miles off the Butt of Lewis. Plan B proved to be a fabulous voyage down the length of the Atlantic coast of the Outer Hebrides. A highlight was anchoring off Callanish in blazing sun.

I hope to continue John’s personal style of service. Please allow a generous lead time as I get used to stocking the components and preparing Hebridean kits while maintaining their high quality…and a reasonable kit price in times of rising costs.

Autopilot vs Windvane Self-Steering (Which Is Better)

Sailing by yourself can be a strenuous task. There are plenty of things that can go wrong and you will need to fix some of those immediately. Who is going to steer the boat when you need to fix something? Thankfully, we have multiple options these days when it comes to the boat steering itself.

This article will discuss Windvane self-steering and autopilot options for your sailboat. We will discuss how they work, the average cost, how to operate them, and which one we would recommend, so keep reading to find out more!

What Is A Self-Steering Windvane? (How it Works)

A Self-Steering Windvane is used on sailboats to maintain a chosen course of sail without constant human action on the wheel or tiller. The wind vane is locked in position after the boat has been put on course and the sails are trimmed correctly.

The self-steering windvane is a great invention that has helped sailors all over the world. It has allowed sailors to allow the boat to steer itself without any electronics needed. This is strictly a mechanical self-steering setup. There are two types of windvanes to be discussed, Servo-Pendulum and Auxillary Rudder.

Servo-Pendulum

The servo-pendulum setup involves using the boat’s current rudder. An enhancement if you will, of the servo-trim tab principle invented by Blondie Hasler, the servo-pendulum uses the speed of the boat going through the water to push against the servo-paddle, creating a substantial force, which is then transferred to the boat’s wheel by the control lines.

The servo paddle is not steering the boat exactly, it is controlling the boat’s wheel or tiller which then turns the main rudder. The main rudder was designed to steer the boat in all conditions and should be utilized whenever possible.

When it comes to selecting the best windvane there are a lot of options out there. One of the more popular options is the CapeHorn.

A great reason to select CapeHorn is because of its custom fittings. They can fit any sailboat out there and will custom design it to fit yours perfectly. Check out this video of a CapeHorn install by Sailing Uma! Subscribe to their channel as well, they make amazing videos.

This video showed a great install of the CapeHorn. They are quite handy and even accomplished this while floating out in the bay. They seem to make everything look easy. This is not the only option for windvanes though. Keep reading to find out about the Auxillary Rudder setup.

Auxillary Rudder

The auxiliary rudder is another very popular type of windvane system for sailboats. It does differ slightly from the servo-pendulum option in a few ways. The main difference between these two is that the auxiliary rudder setup actually steers the boat from the windvane, not like the servo that just turns the wheel. This option also has a secondary rudder or auxiliary rudder at the back of the boat attached to the windvane itself.

This is nice to have in case something were to happen to your main rudder rendering it inoperable. You could always use this as your backup. It even has an attachment so you can steer it by hand. One other great thing about this model is the off-center mounting option. Most people will have a swim ladder in the center of the transom, if that were the case, NO WORRIES, this can be mounted to the side of your transom. I think that is one of the coolest features of this setup. Check out the video below to see this Hydrovane in action.

As you can see from the video above this is a great windvane setup. It will depend on your actual situation and the boat you have to decide between a CapeHorn or a Hydrovane. Just remember to do your research. There are a lot more options out there. I just find these two to be the best.

Now that we have talked about a couple of different types of windvanes, the non-electric autopilots, let’s discuss an actual electric autopilot and see if they compare.

How Does Autopilot Work On A Sailboat?

Autopilots work with 4 components, a compass/sensor, an ACU (autopilot control unit), a control head, and a drive unit. When the control head is set to a specific heading, the drive unit will move the rudder according to the sensor, and keep the boat on the selected course.

There is a lot more detail and components to autopilot but the above description gets the point across. . There are other options that can steer the wheel or even a tiller, but the most common option is the one connected to the rudder.

Make sure to get the correct size autopilot for your specific sailboat

Yes, autopilots come in different sizes. Boats vary in size and so do autopilots. When you are out sailing and the sea starts to get rough, your autopilot motor will have to work harder to maintain the course, putting more strain on the motor. If the strain becomes too much it could fail and lose its course. You would then have to climb out of the cabin in the bad weather and take the helm. It is recommended to purchase an autopilot that is rated for 20% more than your boat’s total displacement. Remember 20% more, minimum.

This is why you need to check the manufactures rating and make sure it is sized for your vessel. I personally recommend getting one that’s a little bigger than needed to help compensate for those rough seas. If you are going to be lake sailing only, I wouldn’t worry so much about size, but for open oceans, then definitely make sure it will handle crazy waves and winds.

There are a couple of different types of autopilots, above deck and below deck. It’s pretty obvious what they mean but let me elaborate just a touch. Below deck autopilots will have the drive motor that moves the rudder accordingly. They are mounted in the hull of the boat near the steering mechanism. With this setup, you will need an autopilot controller mounted somewhere in the cockpit for setting your autopilot on the correct heading.

If you go with an above-deck type of autopilot it will be much easier to access and probably have the controller built into it. One example of this is the tiller autopilot. The tiller is mounted near the tiller and then attached to the tiller with the autopilot rod. The autopilot has the controller built in to set the course. There are also wheel autopilots that can be mounted above the deck as well.

Autopilots are great when they work. I have read a ton of articles and seen plenty of youtube videos about autopilots and it seems like they work half the time. You have to understand these are electrical devices with a motor and many different items can break. Most of the YouTubers that I follow have both a windvane and an autopilot for this very reason. I do know some people that haven’t had any problems with their autopilot so take everything I say with a grain of salt. I just prefer windvanes since they require no electricity, and are usually very easy to repair.

If you would like to watch a video about a marine autopilot and how it works check out the video below.

The video above gives a great description of how autopilot works and how to compare it to a human at the helm, which I thought was a great comparison.

If you have read this far you may be thinking which one should I get, a windvane or an autopilot. Keep reading to find out.

Is A Windvane Better Than An Autopilot? I Say Yes!

The windvane will keep your boat on the correct heading without electricity. There are no electric motors or wiring needed to operate a windvane. If the windvane were to fail, it would be much easier to diagnose the problem and fix it quickly at sea.

When it comes to deciding which option is better, I personally think windvanes are better. I like that they don’t require any electricity. This makes it great for those cloudy days at sea when you can’t charge your batteries.

They do great in rough seas and high winds. The autopilot will use more electricity when the seas are rough draining your batteries even more. If the winds get too much for the CapeHorn, they actually provide you with a stainless steel windvane to swap out. This windvane can handle those high winds with no problem.

Another thing to look at is the price!

You can expect to spend around $5000+ dollars for a winvane by CapeHorn or Hydrovane. This is definitely a lot of money to spend, but from what I have found, they can last a lifetime.

Autopilots tend to be a little cheaper. I found the Raymarine Evolution EV-200 Sailing Vessel Linear Autopilot Pack for $3699 dollars. This model is designed for a mid-size sailboat. The autopilot is definitely cheaper but if it breaks, how much will it cost to fix it?

I am not going to give you a huge list of the different types and prices because there are just too many factors that affect these two things. Just remember to do your research and shop around for the best price.

In Conclusion

This article discussed windvanes and autopilots and how they compare. Windvanes come in a couple of different options, servo-pendulum, and auxiliary rudder. The servo controls the wheel of the boat and the auxiliary controls the boat by becoming a second rudder. Both are good options, it will just depend on what you are looking for. The autopilots are usually a little cheaper but can break down more often. The price will depend on so many factors it is hard to say exactly. I recommend the windvane approach but that is my personal opinion. Do what is best for your situation always! Cheers!

Boatlifehq owner and author/editor of this article.

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Deck-level Wind Vanes

Not just for small boats, these sensors put the fun back in shifty winds.

There are two primary wind indicators on a sailboat. First, we watch the sails. Sailing to windward we watch the jib for luffing and for flow on telltales.

On the main we watch for backwinding near the luff and for good flow on the leach ribbons. Off the wind we are more likely to watch the masthead fly, leading to an epic crick in the neck. More importantly, when sailing in a real breeze we like to keep our eyes near to the water, watching for other boats, the dip of the bow when pressed hard, and scanning for approaching gusts. Theres no time for more than a glance at the masthead. Ribbons on the shrouds help, but often they are too strongly influenced by dodgers and the sails themselves.

Single sail boats, such as Lasers and Optimus dinghies often clamp wind indicators on the forward side of the mast (see Practical Sailor, January 2018, Top Notch Wind Indicators ). Without a jib to interfere with windflow or to luff at every wind shift (thus serving as a wind vane), they give a real-time estimate of wind direction. Thirty years ago Frye developed the habit of watching a Davis Telo-cat indicator that hung suspended under the forestay bridle of his beach catamaran. There it was safe from sheets and sails and directly in sight as he watched the lee bow for signs of submarining, one of the greatest concerns of a beach cat sailor on a fast reach.

As he moved on to larger catamarans, he always found a place to mount the indicator on one of the bows. On his Stiletto 27, the conventional masthead flies mounted at the end of the bow worked fine. That was because, unlike many monohulls or other catamarans, the bows on the Stilletto are far outboard and extend three feet forward of the forestay, where they are relatively undisturbed by air flow.

It was a fast boat and the spinnaker was jibed inside (the sheets passed between the tack and the forestay) like a jib. As is the case with most performance cats, the boat moved so fast off the wind that the apparent wind was rarely if ever dead astern. Instead, the fastest course to steer in terms of velocity made good (VMG) often involved tacking downwind.

When he moved up to a cruising catamaran (PDQ 32), he developed an unbreakable wind indicator ( PS January 2018 ) that could withstand a regular flogging from spinnaker sheets. With his current trimaran (Corsair F-24) he has settled on a pair of wind indicators, port and starboard, since the deck-sweeping genoa blocks the view of the indicator on the off tack. This dual arrangement also ensures at least one of the flies is working in relatively clean air, undisturbed by the jib. On many boats these flies would be vulnerable to sheets during tacking, but in the case of the Corsair, they are protected from reacher and spinnaker sheets by the up-haul used to raise and lower the hinged bowsprit. As the sheets cross the bow, the up-haul keeps them clear of the flies.

Are these sensitive sensors affected by air flow over the jib? Certainly, but they are still extremely useful for adjusting to gusts and shifts. The mounting arm holds them out in front of the jibs luff, and by mounting them low on the bow rail, they escape most of the disturbed air. Even when the jib is close hauled, the distance between the fly and the sail on Fryes boat is at least two feet. On many cruising boats they can be mounted well below the jibs luff, allowing even greater clearance.

Observations

The primary function of these bow vanes is not fine-tuning or fine steering adjustments. These are made based on sail-mounted telltales and the look of the sails themselves. Their true value is showing gross changes in wind direction. As you pass through a tack or jibe, what is the approximate wind angle?

A leeward wind shift has stalled the sails, but how big an adjustment is ideal? You’ve just born away in a strong gust to stall the sails, but how far aft has the apparent wind moved?

Sure, you could glance at the masthead, but when things are happening fast, thats not where your eyes should be. When bearing off you should be watching the bow. When attacking or jibing at speed, the movement of the headsail across the foredeck, the motion of the boom, and the position of other boats are more important than looking up.

Just as importantly, new crew and beginning sailors love them. When anchoring or hoisting sails they don’t need to split their attention; Just keep that vane pointed forward. When sailing they avoid disorientation by looking in too many directions. Remember teaching your kid to drive and watching in horror as the car began to turn every time they turned their head to check a blind spot?

Other than preventing them from fouling with ropes, the greatest challenge can be reading them. It’s easy to judge the angle of a masthead fly when looking up, and bow flies are easy to read on a dinghy or beach cat because they are close. But when they are 20 feet away and viewed from the same level, judging the exact angle is difficult. Indicator arms help.

Deck-level Windvane Options

Weve tried several different brands and models and found something of merit in each of them. Our main criteria was durability, but we did not discern a great difference. All of the vanes are vulnerable to a hard wack, so in the end, the best vane for you will be the one that fits your installation needs.

DIY unbreakable

The do-it-yourself yarn indicator that we featured in January 2018 is perfect for locations where a sheet or sail may find the indicator. It bends rather than breaks. On the other hand, the yarn is sometimes plastered down by rain or spray, sometimes tangles, and the direction can be hard to read.

Bottom line: This is the Best Choice if everything else breaks, but otherwise inferior.

Sailsteady Indicator

Designed by a Laser sailor, the springy Sailsteady is the only vane sensor weve seen that can withstand the abuse of slatting sails and dragging sheets.

We mounted it on the deck of our Javelin and found that a jib will hang up on the vane in light airs, but if theres a good breeze, the vane flops down, lets the line or jib pass, and springs back into action undamaged. It is most useful on small one-designs that have clear foredecks.

Bottom line: Made in the United Kingdom, the Sailsteady offers an option for small boat sailors concerned about deck-sweeping jibs. It comes with one extra vane.

Davis Black Max

Based on the very successful Telo-cat, this black and yellow indicator has proven its durability over may decades of rough use. The clamp is optimized for a 1 -inch mast, but adjusts down to 3/4-inch pulpit rails. We wish the strut was steel rather than carbon, allowing it to be bent for leveling.

Bottom line: Recommended.

Davis Telo-cat

We started with this one over 30 years ago. Specifically designed for beach catamarans, it attaches to the forestay turnbuckle, though the bracket can be adjusted to other configurations. This location is safe from sheets on a beach cat, even with a chute. We used these for decades, always getting multiple seasons from them.

Bottom line: Recommended for beach cats.

Schaefer Marine Little Hawk MK II

Easy to mount, extremely sensitive and highly visible, it looks a little fragile. That said, we havent been able to break one in two seasons. It remains the most sensitive after a year of blasting through waves, even more sensitive than our masthead fly.

Bottom line: Our personal favorite and Best Choice.

Schaefer Marine Cat Hawk

Like the Telo-cat, the mounting is designed for the forestay turnbuckle of a beach cat, but we screwed it to a home built rail mounting block and took it sailing. It was more responsive than the Black Max, steadier than the Little Hawk MK II, and easier to read accurately. We wish the tail was more conspicuous; we may spray the tail yellow. The indicator arms were a little too easy to move, but were also the easiest to read. We wish it came with the Little Hawk Mark II mounting, though you can always bend the wand and secure it somehow.

Bottom Line: Recommended.

While not as unbreakable as the DIY version, it is easy to read and the top-and-bottom stays make it quite damage resistant. Bottom line. We wish it were more responsive.

We’ve been sailing with bow wind indicators for 35 years and we’ve yet to figure out why they are not popular outside the world of beach cat and dinghy sailing. They don’t replace a masthead fly or tell tales, but we all use the same wind and what could be more valuable than knowing where the wind is coming from?

Mounting options is clearly a consideration when choosing a deck-level vane. Several of the models we tested have deck mounts as well as spar mount, and rail mounts.

• The the blue up-haul line protects the sensors on Drew Frye’s boat.
• The C-Vane easily attaches to 1-inch rail
• The mounting arm on the Schaefer Cat Hawk keeps in clean air.
• The simple Mini Hawk II is perfectly balanced. It’s large vane responds well in light winds.

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Wind Vane Self Steering Gear

A wind vane self steering system is not an essential piece of equipment on a sail boat.

However, for anyone who sails alone or cruises short handed over long distances the benefits can be immeasurable.

Long tricks at the helm are exhausting, concentration wanes, essentials such as eating, trimming sails, navigating, sleeping etc are neglected.

Besides that, with a self-steering system set and the sails trimmed you will have time to relax and really enjoy the ride.

• About Self Steering.

The Basic Mechanics.

Types of vane., building your own vane..

• Your Comments

Self Steering Wind Vanes

The first time that a wind vane was used to cross an ocean it was on a motorboat, or so I'm told.

Today however, electronic auto pilots are much more reliable at holding a course and the power to drive them is not an issue as most engines are fitted with alternators which constantly produce electricity.

However, a wind vane gear is best solution for a sailing boat and not just because of the power issue.

Wind direction offshore tends to remain relatively constant over long periods, but there are always constant minor variations and gusts.

In order to keep the sails drawing at maximum efficiency, while maintaining a set autopilot course, they would have to be constantly trimmed.

Wind vanes on the other hand will slavishly follow any wind shifts, a good one will often do it better than most humans and do it for hour after hour without tiring.

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As well as not requiring any battery power, the windvane does not have any complex electronics which, will be vulnerable to damp and that are unlikely to be repairable without spare parts.

Many of the simpler vane gears can usually be repaired or rebuilt using non-specific parts and lashings.

And you can even build one by yourself.

Prior to the development of windvanes long distance sailors such as Joshua Slokum and Eric and Susan Hiscock relied on their boat’s natural ability to bold a course.

Others used systems of blocks and lines between the sails and the tiller.

One of the most common used setups for downwind sailing was using poled out twin headsails, with the sheets lead back to the tiller so that when the pull on one sail increased, the tug on the tiller would bring the boat back on course.

These methods required the sails to be set for balance rather than speed, which is fine for the cruising sailor.

However, the increased interest in long distance short handed racing prompted the development of vane gears.

In the first Singlehanded Transatlantic Race in 1960 all five entrants used vane gear.

The whole point of a wind vane steering gear is to provide feedback to the rudder so that the boat can remain at a set angle to the wind, 'in the groove'.

• This will not be a steady compass course but a constant point of sail.
• First you sail the boat on the desired compass heading.
• Then you trim and balance the sails for this course.
• Once the boat is trimmed the vane is set and the gear engaged to steer the boat on that point of sail.

So how does it work?

There are numerous variations to the mechanics of the linkages types of vane etc but they all work on the same basic principle.

The vane is set so that it is feathering when the boat is in her groove.

Any variation to this angle to the wind will cause the vane to rotate.

The linkages then transmit this rotation to the rudder in such a way as to bring the boat back on the desired heading.

With the boat back on its correct heading the vane and thus the rudder will return to its original position.

In theory the vane could be mounted anywhere where the wind across it is unobstructed.

However it has somehow to be connected to the rudder by some form of mechanical linkage, so the most logical position for it is on the transom.

And it is the linkage which performs the magic.

When the boat drifts off the wind the vane will rotate or flip with the wind, this movement then must be transmitted to the rudder as a turn in the opposite direction.

In the case of a simple vertically rotating vane, as the boat turns clockwise away from the wind direction the vane will rotate in and anti clockwise direction relative to the boat.

This rotation then needs to be transmitted to the rudder to turn it clockwise, relative to the boat, this will then turn the boat anti clockwise until she is back in the groove.

Once set up a vane gear can be very effective.

Setting up is however a matter of getting the balance correct.

Like your sails the wind vane needs to be set according to the apparent wind, the sails rudder and vane need to be in balance.

Because the vane is subject to the apparent wind it will be less effective on a run and in light airs.

In the very simplest of self steering vane gears as the vane pivots the movement is transmitted via lines directly to the tiller.

On others the vane acts directly on a secondary rudder.

However the force provided by a wind vane alone is rarely sufficient to make this system work with large boats.

To overcome this, variations such as the servo pendulum system, invented by "Blondie" Hasler have become widespread.

These systems harness the power derived from the motion of the boat through the water to help turn the rudder.

• Vertical Trim-tab
• Horizontal Trim-tab
• Vertical Servo-pendulum
• Horizontal Servo-pendulum

Vertical-Vane Trim Tab.

This is without doubt the easiest wind vane self-steering device to understand and build.

The vane is vertically pivoted and controls a trim tab on the rudder.

This can be either the main rudder or an auxiliary one.

I had this type of gear on my previous boat and it took me far and wide.

It isn't the most accurate of gears however with some judicious use of bungee to dampen any tendency to yaw it served me well.

Not only is it simple to build and operate but its very simplicity gives it an uncomplicated elegance.

When I built the new rudder for Mignonne I designed it so as to incorporate the vane gear.

Horizontal-Vane Trim.

This horizontal vane gear also operates on a trim tab.

However the vertical vane is set by turning it on its turret until the vane stands as nearly vertical as possible.

Because it tilts proportionally to strength as well as direction of the wind it is a more powerful version of the vertical-vane.

And there is less tendency for the boat to yaw.

Vertical- Vane Servo-pendulum.

On the vertical-vane servo-pendulum invented by Blondie Hasler, the vertical wind vane is connected to the servo blade.

As the pendulum, or servo blade, is turned by the vane it is forced aside by the its movement through the water.

It is this force which is then transferred to the tiller or wheel by means of the linkage.

The main advantages are that the stronger the wind, the faster the boat speed, the greater is the force is applied to the rudder.

Horizontal- Vane Servo-pendulum.

The servo-pendulum with a vertical wind vane has become the standard for most commercially produced wind vane systems.

While there are differences in their methods of transmission, the basic principle is the same.

The most popular among cruising sailors is the Monitor because of its rugged construction and because most parts can be fabricated and repaired relatively easily.

While these commercially produced systems are robust, perform silently and very near flawlessly on all points of sail, they are very expensive.

The easiest and least expensive type of boat to fit a wind vane to is one like Mignonne which has a transom-hung rudder and tiller.

This uses the vane to control a small trim tab on the trailing edge of the main rudder.

The trim-tap controls the main rudder in the same way a trim-tab works on an aeroplane wing.

As the tab turns in concert with the vane, the rudder is deflected in the opposite direction thus turning the boat.

If you are designing your own vane, whatever the style there are several details to keep in mind.

• The vane must be as sensitive as possible, which usually means large and light.
• Friction must be kept to a minimum, preferably with non corrosive bushing such as Teflon.
• The tab needs to be narrow and deep yet clear of the bottom of the rudder to avoid damage.  
• Whatever linkage you use should not be affected by movement of the main rudder.  

The vane I have used on Mignonne was inspired by an idea from one of Lin and Larry Pardey’s books.

Rather than use the usual plywood panel I made a wooden frame to support a sailcloth vane.

My vane like the rest of the boat is still very much a work in progress and the present vane really needs to be larger, I knocked it together from off cuts and leftover bit of sailcloth.

However, creating it to look like a small mizzen sail has the added advantage of fitting it into the overall look of the boat.

Also the light weight needs less of a counterbalance.

My main fear from using a trim-tab was how it would be affected when motoring astern.

The usual advice is to have a locking device to center the tab, but I know from experience how easy it is to forget something like that until it is too late.

So what I have done is attack the tab with enough clearance between it and the trailing edge of the rudder to allow it to rotate through 360 degrees.

This type of trim-tab also seems to work best where there is an angle between the axis of the rudder and tab pivots and if the linkage is sited where these cross.

Because the trim-tab turns in the same direction as the vane the linkage is direct.

The only provision needed is a method of allowing the vane to be set according to the wind direction.

I used a disc of a Tufnol like material which was relatively easy to shape yet is hard wearing, I have heard of someone who used a bicycle drive cog to good effect.

The latch is just a piece of metal hinged so that its own weight causes it to engage and it is controlled with a simple lanyard.

My greatest fear about using the wind vane is if I should fall overboard and have to watch my boat merrily sailing away form me.

OK, that can happen without self steering which is why I always (well nearly always) clip on when I'm sailing alone.

I have read suggestions about trailing a long line with a float on the end, umm, that’s ok if you are able to swim to it in time to catch it, I’ll stick to my harness and safety-line thanks.

And remember that while a wind vane might do a great job of helming your boat it won't keep a lookout, that’s still your responsibility .

However, I have found that being relieved of the need to helm allows me more time to look around.

And on the subject of looking around don’t forget that extra bit of gear sticking out of the transom when docking mooring and going astern.

Also remember that your vane can only react after the boat has moved off course, it isn’t able to anticipate the sea conditions or wind shifts.

If you do need to make an emergency course change the wind vane mechanism should be easy to disengage.

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The origins of the Aries Vane Gear date back to 1964. Englishman Nick Franklin wanted to create a wind-generated autopilot, suitable for a large variety of sailboats, with different transoms and rudder layouts, operated by both tillers and wheels.

The Servo-Pendulum System was a winning formula. The boat is steered by its own rudder, which is the most efficient way to steer a boat. The force needed to steer is generated by the speed in the water and is more than sufficient to get even the heaviest cruising sailboats back on course.

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sailboat wind vane self-steering system Integrated

For boats with transom or canoe stern. Integrated into the stern of the boat, the CapeHorn self-steering gear is virtually as strong as the boat itself. The horizontal axle passes through the transom to locate the CapeHorn control ...

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