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Multihull Capsize Risk Check

Waves, squalls, and inattention to trim and helm contribute to instability..

In recent years we’ve seen a surge in interest in multihulls. Thirty years ago, when my experience with cruising multihulls began, nearly all of the skippers served an apprenticeship with beach cats, learning their quirks by the seat of their pants. They hiked out on trapezes and flew head-over-heels past their pitch-pole prone Hobie 16s, until they learned the importance of keeping weight way aft on a reach and bearing off when the lee bow began to porpoise.

By contrast, the new generation of big cat buyers skipped this learning process, learning on monohulls or even choosing a big stable cat as their first boat. Heck, nobody even builds real beach cats anymore, only pumped up racing machines and rotomolded resort toys. So we’re guessing there are a few things these first-time cruising multihull sailors don’t know, even if they have sailed cruising cats before.

It is extremely hard to capsize a modern cruising cat. Either a basic disregard for seamanship or extreme weather is required. But no matter what the salesman tells you (“none of our boats have ever …”), it can happen. A strong gust with sail up or a breaking wave in a survival storm can do it. And when a multihull goes over, they don’t come back.

Trimarans tend to be more performance oriented than catamarans. In part, this is because it’s easier to design a folding trimaran, and as a result Farrier, Corsair, and Dragonfly trimarans had a disproportionate share of the market.

In spite of this and in spite of the fact that many are raced aggressively in windy conditions, capsizes are few, certainly fewer than in equivalent performance catamaran classes.  But when they do go over, they do so in different ways.

Trimarans have greater beam than catamarans, making them considerably more resistant to capsize by wind alone, whether gusts or sustained wind. They heel sooner and more than catamaran, giving more warning that they are over powered. 

Waves are a different matter. The amas are generally much finer, designed for low resistance when sailing deeply immersed to windward. As a result, trimarans are more susceptible to broach and capsize when broad reaching at high speed or when caught on the beam by a large breaking wave.

In the first case, the boat is sailing fast and overtaking waves. You surf down a nice steep one, into the backside of the next one, the ama buries up to the beam and the boat slows down. The apparent wind increases, the following wave lifts the transom, and the boat slews into a broach. If all sail is instantly eased, the boat will generally come back down, even from scary levels of heel, but not always.

In the second case a large wave breaks under the boat, pulling the leeward ama down and rolling the boat. Catamarans, on the other hand, are more likely to slide sideways when hit by a breaking wave, particularly if the keels are shallow (or raised in the case of daggerboards), because the hulls are too big to be forced under. They simply get dragged to leeward, alerting the crew that it is time to start bearing off the wind.

Another place the numbers leave us short is ama design. In the 70s and 80s, most catamarans were designed with considerable flare in the bow, like other boats of the period. This will keep the bow from burying, right? Nope. When a hull is skinny it can always be driven through a wave, and wide flare causes a rapid increase in drag once submerged, causing the boat to slow and possibly pitchpole.

Hobie Cat sailors know this well. More modern designs either eliminate or minimize this flare, making for more predictable behavior in rough conditions. A classic case is the evolution of Ian Farrier’s designs from bows that flare above the waterline to a wave-piercing shape with little flare, no deck flange, increased forward volume, and reduced rocker (see photos page 18). After more than two decades of designing multihulls, Farrier saw clear advantages of the new bow form. The F-22 is a little faster, but more importantly, it is less prone to broach or pitchpole, allowing it to be driven harder.

Beam and Stability

The stability index goes up with beam. Why isn’t more beam always better? Because as beam increases, a pitchpole off the wind becomes more likely, both under sail and under bare poles. (The optimum length-to-beam ratios is 1.7:1 – 2.2:1 for cats and 1.2:1-1.8:1 for trimarans.) Again, hull shape and buoyancy also play critical roles in averting a pitchpole, so beam alone shouldn’t be regarded as a determining factor.

Drogues and Chutes

While monohull sailors circle the globe without ever needing their drogues and sea anchors, multihulls are more likely to use them. In part, this is because strategies such as heaving to and lying a hull don’t work for multihulls. Moderate beam seas cause an uncomfortable snap-roll, and sailing or laying ahull in a multihull is poor seamanship in beam seas.

Fortunately, drogues work better with multihulls. The boats are lighter, reducing loads. They rise over the waves, like a raft. Dangerous surfing, and the risk of pitchpole and broach that comes with it, is eliminated.  There’s no deep keel to trip over to the side and the broad beam increases the lever arm, reducing yawing to a bare minimum. 

Speed-limiting drogues are often used by delivery skippers simply to ease the motion and take some work off the autopilot. By keeping her head down, a wind-only capsize becomes extremely unlikely, and rolling stops, making for an easy ride. A properly sized drogue will keep her moving at 4-6 knots, but will not allow surfing, and by extension, pitch poling. 

For more information on speed limiting drogues, see “ How Much Drag is a Drogue? ” PS , September 2016.

Capsize Case Studies

Knock wood, we’ve never capsized a cruising multihull (beach cat—plenty of times), but we have pushed them to the edge of the envelope, watched bows bury, and flown multi-ton hulls to see just how the boat liked it and how fast she would go. We’re going to tell you about these experiences and what can be learned from them, so you don’t have to try it.

First, it helps to examine a few examples of some big multihull capsizes.

Techtronics 35 catamaran, John Shuttleworth design

This dramatic pitchpole occurred in a strong breeze some 30 years ago. In order to combine both great speed and reasonable accommodation, the designer incorporated considerable flare just above the waterline, resulting in hulls that were skinny and efficient in most conditions, but wide when driven under water in steep chop.

The boat was sailing fast near Nova Scotia, regularly overtaking waves.  The bows plowed into a backside of a particularly steep wave, the submerged drag was huge, and the boat stopped on a dime. At the same time, the apparent wind went from about 15 knots into the high 20s, tripling the force on the sails and rapidly lifting the stern over the bow. Some crew were injured, but they all survived.

PDQ 32 Catamaran

On July 4, 2010, the boat’s new owners had scheduled time to deliver their new-to-them boat up the northern California coast. A strong gale was predicted, but against all advice, they left anyway. The boat turned sideways to the confused seas and a breaking wave on the beam capsized the boat. There were no injuries, and the boat was recovered with only moderate damage a few weeks later. Repaired, she is still sailing.

Another PDQ 32 was capsized in the Virgin Islands when a solo sailor went below to tend to something and sailed out of the lee of the island and into a reinforced trade wind.

Sustaining speed with wider tacking angles will help overcome leeway.

Cruising cats can’t go to windward. That’s the rumor, and there’s a kernel of truth to it. Most lack deep keels or dagger boards and ex-charter cats are tragically under canvassed for lighter wind areas, a nod to near universal lack of multihull experience among charter skippers. Gotta keep them safe.  But there are a few tricks that make the worst pig passable and the better cats downright weatherly. Those of you that learned your craft racing Hobies and Prindles know most of this stuff, but for the rest of you cruising cat sailors, there’s some stuff the owner’s manual leaves out.

“Tune” the Mast

Having no backstay means that the forestay cannot be kept tight unless you want to turn your boat into a banana and over stress the cap shrouds. Although the spreaders are swept back, they are designed primarily for side force with just a bit of pull on the forestay. The real forestay tension comes from mainsheet tension.

Why is it so important to keep the forestay stay tight? Leeward sag forces cloth into the luff of the genoa, making it fuller and blunting the entry into the wind. The draft moves aft, the slot is pinched, and aerodynamic drag increases. Even worse, leeway (sideslip) increases, further increasing drag and sliding you away from your destination. Sailing a cruising cat to windward is about fine tuning the lift to drag ratio, not just finding more power.

How do you avoid easing the mainsheet in strong winds? First, ease the traveler instead. To avoid pinching the slot, keep the main outhaul tight to flatten the lower portion of the main. Use a smaller jib or roll up some genoa; overlap closes the slot. Reef if need be; it is better to keep a smaller mainsail tight than to drag a loose mainsail upwind, with the resultant loose forestay and clogged slot. You will see monos with the main twisted off in a blow. Ignore them, they are not cruising cats. It is also physically much easier to play the traveler than the main sheet. Be glad you have a wide one.

Check Sheeting Angles

Very likely you do not have enough keel area to support large headsails. As a result, you don’t want the tight genoa lead angles of a deep keeled monohull. All you’ll do is sail sideways. Too loose, on the other hand, and you can’t point. In general, 7-10 degrees is discussed for monos that want to pinch up to 40 degrees true, but 14-16 degrees makes more sense for cruising cats that will sail at no less than 50 degrees true. Rig up some temporary barber haulers and experiment. Then install a permanent Barber-hauler; see “ Try a Barber Hauler for Better Sail Trim ,” Practical Sailor , September 2019.

The result will be slightly wider tacking angles, perhaps 105 degrees including leeway, but this will be faster for you. You don’t have the same hull speed limit, so let that work for you. Just don’t get tempted off onto a reach; you need to steer with the jib not far from luffing.

Watch the fore/aft lead position as well. You want the jib to twist off to match the main. Typically it should be right on the spreaders, but that depends on the spreaders. If you have aft swept shrouds, you may need to roll up a little genoa, to 110% max.

Use your Tell-Tales

On the jib there can be tell-tale ribbons all over, but on the main the only ones that count are on the leech. Keep all but the top one streaming aft. Telltales on the body of sail are confused by either mast turbulence (windward side) or pasted down by jib flow (leeward side) and won’t tell you much. But if the leach telltales suck around to leeward you are over sheeted.

Keep Your Bottom Clean

 It’s not just about speed, it’s also pointing angle. Anything that robs speed also makes you go sideways, since with less flow over the foil there will be less lift. Flow over the foils themselves will be turbulent. Nothing slows you down like a dirty bottom.

Reef Wisdom

Push hard, but reef when you need to. You will have the greatest lift vs. windage ratio when you are driving hard. That said, it’s smart to reef most cruising cats well before they lift a hull to avoid overloading the keels. If you are feathering in the lulls or allowing sails to twist off, it’s time to reef.

Don’t Pinch

Pinching (pointing to high) doesn’t work for cats. Get them moving, let the helm get a little lighter (the result of good flow over the rudder and keel), and then head up until the feeling begins to falter. How do you know when it’s right? Experiment with tacking angles (GPS not compass, because you want to include leeway in your figuring) and speed until the pair feel optimized. With a genoa and full main trimmed in well, inside tracks and modified keels, and relatively smooth water, our test PDQ can tack through 100 degrees with the boat on autopilot. Hand steering can do a little better, though it’s not actually faster to windward. If we reef or use the self-tacking jib, that might open up to 110-115 degrees, depending on wave conditions. Reefing the main works better than rolling up jib.

Boats with daggerboards or centerboards.  The comments about keeping a tight forestay and importance of a clean bottom are universal. But the reduction in leeway will allow you to point up a little higher, as high as monohulls if you want to. But if you point as high as you can, you won’t go any faster than similar monohulls, and quite probably slower. As a general rule, tacking through less than 90 degrees, even though possible, is not the best strategy. A slightly wider angle, such as 100 degrees, will give a big jump in boat speed with very little leeway.

Chris White Custom 57

In November 2016, winds had been blowing 25-30 knots in stormy conditions about 400 miles north of the Dominican Republic. The main had two reefs in, and the boat was reaching under control at moderate speed when a microburst hit, causing the boat to capsize on its beam. There were no serious injuries.

Another Chris White 57 capsized on July 31, 2010. It had been blowing 18-20 knots and the main had a single reef. The autopilot steered. The wind jumped to 62 knots in a squall and changed direction so quickly that no autopilot could be expected to correct in time.

Gemini 105mC

In 2018, the 34-foot catamaran was sailing in the Gulf of Mexico under full sail at about 6 knots in a 10-15 knot breeze. Squalls had been reported on the VHF. The crew could see a squall line, and decided to run for cover. Before they could get the sails down, the gust front hit, the wind shifted 180 degrees, and the boat quickly went over.

38-foot Roger Simpson Design

The catamaran Ramtha was hit head-on by the infamous Queen’s Birthday storm in 1994. The mainsail was blown out, and steering was lost. Lacking any control the crew was taken off the boat, and the boat was recovered basically unharmed 2 weeks later. A Catalac catamaran caught in the same storm trailed a drogue and came through unharmed. Of the eight vessels that called for help, two were multihulls. Twenty-one sailors were rescued, three aboard the monohull Quartermaster were lost at sea.

15 meter Marsaudon Ts

Hallucine capsized off Portugal on November 11 of this year. This is a high performance cat, in the same general category as the familiar Gunboat series. It was well reefed and the winds were only 16-20 knots. According to crew, it struck a submerged object, and the sudden deceleration caused the boat to capsize.

Multihulls We’ve Sailed

Clearly seamanship is a factor in all of our the previous examples. The watch needs to be vigilant and active. Keeping up any sail during squally weather can be risky. Even in the generally benign tropics, nature quickly can whip up a fury. But it is also true that design choices can impact risk of capsize. Let’s see what the numbers can tell us, and what requires a deeper look.

Stiletto Catamaran

We’ve experienced a number of capsizes both racing and while driving hard in these popular 23-foot catamarans. The combination of light displacement and full bow sections make pitchpoling unlikely, and the result is very high speed potential when broad reaching. Unfortunately, a narrow beam, light weight, and powerful rig result in a low stability factor. The potential for capsize is real when too much sail is up and apparent wind is directly on the beam. The boat can lift a hull in 12 knots true. This makes for exciting sailing when you bring your A-game, but limits the boat to coastal sailing.

Corsair F-24 MK I trimaran

Small and well canvased, these boats can capsize if driven hard (which they often are), but they are broad beamed, short-masted, and designed for windy sailing areas. F-24s are slower off wind than the Stiletto, in part because of greater weight and reduced sail area, but also because the main hull has more rocker and does not plane as well. They are faster to weather and point considerably higher than a Stiletto (90-degree tacking angle vs. 110 degrees). This is the result of greater beam, a more efficient centerboard design, and slender amas that are easily driven in displacement mode. The boat is quite forgiving if reefed.

Going purely by the numbers, this boat seems nearly identical to the F-24. In practice, they sail quite differently. The Dash uses a dagger board instead of centerboard, which is both more hydrodynamic and faster, but more vulnerable to damage if grounded at high speed.

The rotating mast adds power that is not reflected in the numbers. The bridgedeck clearance is higher above the waterline, reducing water drag from wave strikes. The wave-piercing amas create greater stability up wind and off the wind. The result is a boat that is slightly faster than the original F-24 and can be driven much harder off the wind without fear of pitchpole or broach.

Without proper testing, calculating stability yields only a rough picture.

Evaluating multihull performance based on design numbers is a bit more complicated than it is with ballasted, displacement monohulls, whose speed is generally limited by hull form. [Editor’s note: The formula for Performance Index, PI has been updated from the one that originally appeared in the February 2021 issue of Practical Sailor.

The following definitions of units apply to the adjacent table:

SA = sail area in square feet

D (displacement) = weight in pounds

LWL = length of waterline in feet

HCOE = height of sail center of effort above the waterline in feet

B = beam in feet

BCL = beam at the centerline of the hulls in feet.

Since a multihull pivots around the centerline beam, the overall beam is off the point and is not used in formulas. Calculate by subtracting the individual hull beam from the overall beam.

SD ratio = SA/(D/64)^0.66

This ratio gives a measure of relative speed potential on flat water for monohulls, but it doesn’t really work for multihulls.

Bruce number = (SA)^0.5/(D)^0.333

Basically this is the SD ratio for multihulls, it gives a better fit.

Performance index = (SA/HCOE)^0.5 x (D/1000)^0.166

By including the height of the COE and displacement, this ratio reflects the ability of the boat to use that power to sail fast, but it understates the importance of stability to the cruiser.

Stability factor = 9.8*((0.5*BCL*D)/(SA*HCOE))^0.5

This approximates the wind strength in knots required to lift a hull and includes a 40% gust factor. In the adjacent data sheet, we compare the formula’s predicted stability to observed behavior. Based on our experience on the boats represented, the results are roughly accurate.

Ama buoyancy = expressed as a % of total displacement.

Look for ama buoyancy greater than 150% of displacement, and 200 is better.  Some early trimaran designs had less than 100 percent buoyancy and would capsize well before flying the center hull. They exhibited high submerged drag when pressed hard and were prone to capsize in breaking waves.

Modern tris have ama buoyancy between 150 and 200 percent of displacement and can fly the center hull, though even racing boats try to keep the center hull still touching. In addition, as a trimaran heels, the downward pressure of wind on the sail increases, increasing the risk of capsize. The initial heel on a trimaran is more than it is on catamarans, and all of that downward force pushes the ama even deeper in the water. Thus, like monohulls, it usually makes sense to keep heel moderate.

These numbers can only be used to predict the rough characteristics of a boat and must be supplemented by experience.

This is the first real cruising multihull in our lineup. A few have capsized. One was the result of the skipper pushing too hard in very gusty conditions with no one on watch. The other occurred when a crew unfamiliar with the boat ignored local wisdom and set sail into near gale conditions.

Although the speed potential of the PDQ 32 and the F-24 are very similar, and the stability index is not very different, the feel in rough conditions is more stable, the result of much greater weight and fuller hull sections.

Like most cruising cats, the PDQs hulls are relatively full in order to provide accommodation space, and as a result, driving them under is difficult. The increased weight slows the motion and damps the impact of gusts. Yes, you can fly a hull in about 25 knots apparent wind (we proved this during testing on flat water with steady winds), and she’ll go 8-9 knots to weather doing it, but this is not something you should ever do with a cruising cat.

Stability by the Numbers

The “stability factor” in the table above (row 14) is based on flatwater conditions, and ignores two additional factors. Unlike monohulls, the wind will press on the underside of the bridgedeck of a multihull once it passes about 25 degrees of heel, pushing it up and over. This can happen quite suddenly when the boat flies off a wave and the underside is suddenly exposed to wind blowing up the slope of the wave. A breaking wave also adds rotational momentum, pitching the windward hull upwards.

Multihulls by the Numbers

Autopilot is a common thread in many capsizes. The gust “came out of no place…” No it didn’t. A beach cat sailor never trusts gusty winds. The autopilot should be disengaged windspeeds and a constant sheet watch is mandatory when gusts reach 30-40 percent of those required to fly a hull, and even sooner if there are tall clouds in the neighborhood. Reef early if a helm watch is too much trouble.

“But surely the sails will blow first, before the boat can capsize?” That would be an expensive lesson, but more to the point, history tells us that well-built sails won’t blow.

“Surely the rig will fail before I can lift a hull?” Again, that could only be the result of appallingly poor design, since a rig that weak will not last offshore and could not be depended on in a storm. Furthermore, good seamanship requires that you be able to put the full power of the rig to work if beating off a lee shore becomes necessary.

Keeping both hulls in the water is up to you. Fortunately, under bare poles and on relatively flat water even smaller cruising cats can take 70 knots on the beam without lifting … but we don’t set out to test that theory, because once it blows for a while over even 40 knots, the real risk is waves.

Everything critical to safety in a blow we learned on beach cats. Like riding a bike, or—better yet—riding a bike off-road, there are lessons learned the hard way, and those lessons stay learned. If you’ve been launched into a pitchpole a few times, the feeling you get just before things go wrong becomes ingrained.

Perhaps you are of a mature age and believe you monohull skills are more than enough to see you through. If you never sail aggressively or get caught in serious weather, you’re probably right.

However, if there’s a cruising cat in your future, a season spent dialing in a beach cat will be time well spent. Certainly, such experience should be a prerequisite for anyone buying a performance multihull. The statement might be a little pointed, but it just makes sense.

Capsize by Wind Alone

Capsizing by wind alone is uncommon on cruising multihulls. Occasionally a performance boat will go over in squally weather. The crew could easily have reefed down or gone to bare poles, but they clung to the idea that they are a sail boat, and a big cat feels so stable under sail—right up until a hull lifts.

Because a multihull cannot risk a knockdown (since that is a capsize), if a squall line is tall and dark, the smart multihull sailors drops all sail. Yes, you could feather up wind, but if the wind shifts suddenly, as gusts often do, the boat may not turn fast enough. Off the wind, few multihulls that can take a violent microburst and not risk a pitchpole. When a squall threatens, why risk a torn sail for a few moments of fast sailing?

You can’t go by angle of heel alone because of wave action. Cat instability begins with the position of the windward hull. Is it flying off waves?

A trimaran’s telltale is submersion of leeward ama. Is the leeward ama more than 30-40 percent under water? The maximum righting angles is a 12-15 degrees for cats and 25-30 degrees for trimarans, but that is on flat water. Once the weather is up, observation of motion becomes far more important. Is the boat falling into a deep trough, or is at about to launch off a steep wave and fly?

Just as monohulls can surprise a new sailor by rounding up and broaching in a breeze, multihulls have a few odd habits that only present themselves just before things go wrong. Excuse the repetition, but the best way to learn to instinctively recognize these signs is by sailing small multihulls.

Sailing Windward

Because of the great beam, instead of developing weather helm as they begin to fly a hull, multihulls can suddenly develop lee helm, causing the boat to bear away and power up at the worst possible moment. This is because the center of drag moves to the lee hull, while the center of drive remains in the center, causing the boat to bear away.

If the boat is a trimaran, with only a center rudder, this rounding up occurs just as steering goes away. This  video of a MOD 70 capsize shows how subtle the early warning signs can be ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=CI2iIY61Lc8 ).

Sailing Downwind

Off the wind, the effect can be the reverse. The lee hull begins to bury, and you decide it is time to bear off, but the submerged lee bow acts like a forward rudder. It moves the center of effort far forward and prevents any turn to leeward.  Nearly all trimarans will do this, because the amas are so fine. The solution is to bear away early, before the ama buries­—or better yet, to reef.

Conclusions

We’re not trying to scare you off multi-hulls. Far from it. As you can probably tell, I am truly addicted. Modern designs have well-established reputation seaworthiness.

But multihull seaworthiness and seamanship are different from monohulls, and some of those differences are only apparent when you press the boat very hard, harder than will ever experience in normal weather and outside of hard racing. These subtle differences have caught experienced sailors by surprise, especially if their prior experience involved only monohulls or cruising multihulls that were never pressed to the limit.

Although the numbers only tell part of the story, pay attention to a boat’s stability index. You really don’t want an offshore cruising boat that needs to be reefed below 22-25 knots apparent. Faster boats can be enjoyable, but they require earlier reefing and a more active sailing style.

When squalls threaten or the waves get big, take the appropriate actions and take them early, understanding that things happen faster. And don’t forget: knockdowns are not recoverable. It is satisfying to have a boat that has a liferaft-like stability, as long as you understand how to use it.

Technical Editor Drew Frye is the author of “Rigging Modern Anchors.” He blogs at www.blogspot/sail-delmarva.com

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22 comments.

It’s interesting to read the report of the Multihull Symposium (Toronto, 1976) regarding the issues of multihull capsize in the formative years of commercial multihull design. There were so many theories based around hull shape, wing shape, submersible or non submersibe floats, sail area and maximum load carrying rules. My father, Nobby Clarke, of the very successful UK firm Cox Marine, fought many a battle in the early Sixties with the yachting establishment regarding the safety of trimarans, and I am glad that in this modern world technolgy answers the questions rather than the surmises of some establishment yachting magazines of the time.

Thank You Mr.Nicholson and Thank You to Practical Sailor for this great read superbly shared by Mr.Nicholson God bless you and our great Sailing Family.

Great read! Multi hulls are great party vessels which is why companies like Moorings and Sunsail have larger and larger numbers in their fleets. More and more multihulls are joining the offshore sailing fleets. Dismasting and capsizes do happen. Compared to mono hulls I know of no comparative statistics but off shore and bluewater, give me a mono hull. That is probably because I took one around with zero stability issues and only minor rig few issues. Slowly though; ten years.

Great read! Multi hulls are great party vessels which is why companies like Moorings and Sunsail have larger and larger numbers in their fleets. More and more multihulls are joining the offshore sailing fleets. Dismasting and capsizes do happen. Compared to mono hulls I know of no comparative statistics but off shore and bluewater, give me a mono hull. That is probably because I took one around with zero stability issues and only minor rig issues. Slowly though; ten years.

What’s an ama? Those who are new to sailing or even veteran sailors who have never been exposed to a lot of the terms simply get lost in an article with too many of those terms. I would suggest putting definitions in parentheses after an unfamiliar term to promote better understanding.

Vaka is the central, main hull, in a trimaran.

Ama is the “pontoon” hull at the end of the aka, or “crossbeam”, on each side of a trimaran.

I’m a geek, and therefore live in a dang *ocean* of the Jargonian & Acronese languages, and agree with you:

presuming 100% of audience is understanding each Jargonian term, and each Acronese term, is pushing credulity…

( and how in the hell “composition” means completely different things in object-oriented languages as compared with Haskell?? Bah. : )

As I understand it: Cats have an advantage in big beam seas because they will straddle a steep wave whereas a Tri can have its main hull on the wave crest with the windward ama’s bottom very high off the water and acting as another sail. Also, rig loads on a mono hull are calculated to be 2.5-3x the righting moment at a 45 deg heal; the reason being at 45 degrees the boat will still be making headway and feeling the dynamic loads in the seaway but beyond 45 degrees is a knockdown condition without seaway shock loads. A multihull rig on the other-hand can experience very high dynamic shock loads that are too short in duration to raise a hull.

Though I agree with much of the article content, the statement: “… this is because strategies such as heaving to and lying a hull don’t work for multihulls.” does not ring true in my experience. I have sailed about 70,000nm on cruising catamarans, a Canadian built Manta 38 (1992, 39ft x 21ft) with fixed keels and my present boat, a Walter Greene Evenkeel 38 (1997, 38ft x 19ft 6″) with daggerboards. I came from a monohull background, having circumnavigated the world and other international sailing (60,000nm) on a mono before purchasing the Manta cat. I owned that catamaran for 16 years and full time cruised for seven of those years, including crossing the Arctic Circle north of Iceland and rounding Cape Horn. I usually keep sailing until the wind is over 40knots, then the first tactic is to heave-to, and have lain hove-to for up to three days with the boat lying comfortably, pointing at about 50 to 60degrees from the wind and fore-reaching and side-slipping at about 1.5 to 2knots. Usually once hove-to I wait until the wind has reduced to 20knots or less before getting underway again. Lying ahull also works, though I have only used that in high winds without big breaking waves, as in the South Atlantic in the lee of South America with strong westerlies. I have lain to a parachute sea anchor and it is very comfortable, though lots of work handling all that gear and retrieving it and was glad to have deployed it when I did. I heave-to first, then deploy the sea anchor from the windward bow while in the hove-to position. The daggerboard cat will also heave-to well, though takes some adjusting of the boards to get her to lay just right, though I have not experience being at sea on this boat in as high of winds as with the Manta (over 60 knots). Catamaran bows have lots of windage and have little depth of hull forward. Thus you need mostly mainsail and little jib to keep her pointing into the wind. I aim for the wind to blow diagonally across the boat, with a line from the lee transom to the windward bow pointing into the wind as an optimum angle. As per taking the boat off autopilot when the wind gets near 20 knots is just not practical. The longest passage I have made on my catamarans has been from Fortaleza, Brazil, to Bermuda, nearly 3,000nm and across the squall prone doldrums and horse latitudes, taking 20 days. The autopilot steered the whole distance. I have never lifted a hull nor felt the boat was out of control despite having sailed in some of the most dangerous waters of the world.

I believe that your Techtronics 35 should be Tektron 35 (Shuttleworth) and as far as I know the capsize that occurred off Nova Scotia was, in fact, a Tektron 50 (Neptune’s Car I believe) sailed by the Canadian builder Eugene Tekatch and was reported as being off PEI. This capsize was well documented under a thread in “Steamradio” that I can no longer find. It appears that Steamradio is now, unfortunately, no longer operating. The report of the capsize was along the lines of the boat being sailed off wind with all sail in a gale. I think Shuttleworth indicated that they would have been doing about 30 knots. They then hit standing waves off PEI, the boat came to a standstill and with the change in apparent wind to the beam, over they went. Reading between the lines, Shuttleworth was pretty unhappy that one of his designs had been capsized in this manner, unhappier yet that some of the findings of I believe an american committee/ board were that the design was somehow at fault. Given Shuttleworth’s rep it seems unlikely. As I say these are recollections only.

Shortly afterwards Neptune’s Car was up for sale for a steal price.

I think Jim Brown (Trimaran Jim) when speaking of the Tektron 50 referred to it as weighing less than similarly sized blocks of Styrofoam. Admittedly, blocks of solid foam weigh more than one might imagine, but still a vivid point. Though Tektron 50 was light, we have far more options to build lighter boats today, than in the past.

Good that Practical Sailor is looking at this issue and I agree with much of it, so thanks PS for that. Also fun to see Nobby Clark’s son chip in …. I met Nobby at the ’76 World Symposium in Toronto, when I was just starting to get interested in Trimarans. I have since owned 4 and as a naval architect, builder and sailor, now specialize in their design and ‘all things related’, with a quasi-encyclopedic website at: http://www.smalltridesign.com . So as a trimaran guru, I’d like to add a few things here. In my experience (now 45 years with multis) there is really too much difference between catamarans and trimarans to compare them on the basis of the same formulas. For example, lifting a hull on a cat brings about a major reduction in reserve stability ….. lifting an ama on a trimaran, certainly does not. Using 30-40% immersion of an ama is hardly a guide to limit or prevent a capsize on a trimaran as that’s not even close to normal operating immersion . I would recommend a reduction of ama bow freeboard to about 1-2% of the boat length (depending on a few size factors) is a better guide as the ‘time to really ease up’. This visual indicator is great on my boats but is very hard to judge on hulls with reverse bows where there is no deck up forward. For a number of reasons, I am against this shape but as I’ve already made my case on line about this, I’ll not repeat it here. Over 80% of the capsizes we see on line, show that mainsails were never released .. and that includes the capsize of the MOD70 in the YouTube referenced in the PS article. As several trimaran owners I deal with have also capsized or near-capsized their boats (particularly those between 22 and 40ft that ‘feel’ more stable than they really are, I am developing a few models of EMRs to help solve their issue, (EMR=Emergency Mainsheet Release) and these will be operated wirelessly by punching a large button under the skippers vest, as I am not in favor of any fully automatic release. This HAS to be a skippers decision in my opinion for numerous reasons. The first two units of this EMR dubbed ‘Thump’R, will be installed this Spring … one in Europe and the other in Australia, but one day, perhaps Practical Sailor will get to see and test one for you 😉 In a few words, my advice to all multihull sailors is to be very aware of the way your stability works on your specific boat and sail accordingly. We learn this instinctively with small beach boats, but is harder to ‘sense’ as boats get heavier and larger. I have sailed cats from a 60ft Greene cat to a 12ft trimaran and although some basics apply they are of course very different. But you still need to ‘learn the early signs’ of your boat, as these must be your guide. IMHO a good multihull design will be fairly light and easily driven which means that it will still sail well with less sail. This means that the use of a storm mainsail in potentially high wind can add much reserve stability and safety to your voyage. To give an example from my small W17 design that sets a rotating wingmast, the boats top speed to date is 15kts with 200 sqft, but with the storm mainsail and a partly-furled jib I can get the area down under 100sqft without losing rig efficiency. In fact, the tall narrow storm main with a 5.5:1 aspect ratio is now even MORE efficient as the wingmast is now doing a higher percentage of the work. In 25-30t storm conditions, I have now sailed 8kts upwind and 14.4kts down, and feel very dry and comfortable doing so … even at 80+. So get the right sails, and change down to small more efficient ones when it pipes up. A multihull storm sail should look nothing like a mono’s trysail … with our narrow hulls, we are sailing in a very different way. Happy sailing Mike

In the old days, low displacement, short and narrowly spaced amas were the design of choice. One was supposed to back off when they started to submerge. It was a visual indicator. Modern amas are huge. If a 24 foot tri like the Tremolino could be designed to use Hobie 16 hulls in the 70s, today it would carry Tornado hulls. The slippery shape of designs catches the eye, and their supposed less grabby when submerged decks, but these amas also carry 1.5-2x main hull displacement. The chance of burying them is significantly reduced.

The original intent of these slippery ama designs was to shake off wind. Though low drag shapes for reducing pitch pole risk are a consideration, it should be balanced against maintaining ama deck walkability. This is important in allowing one to service the boat or rig drogues or anchors, not to mention to position live ballast. I am thinking here of the smaller club and light crusing tris. You aren’t going to be able to do a lot of these things on monster luxury boats that are a different scale entirely. But they mater on the kinds of boat most people are likely to own.

Poring over tri design books, one will notice that the silhouette of, say, a 40 foot tri, and the smaller 20 foot design are very similar This yields a doubling of the power to weight ratio on the smaller boat. This difference can even be greater as the smaller boats are often nothing more than empty shells, yet may carry higher performance rig features like rotating masts. Smaller tris are often handicapped by the requirements of being folded for trailering which both limits beam and ama displacement, though it may tend to increase weight. On top of that, mainsail efficiency is much higher, these days, with squared shapes, and less yielding frabrics. And, of course, much larger sail plans. All the better, just so long as people realize what they have by the tail.

Excellent article…thank you!!!!!!!!!

Good article. One thing that concerns me about modern cruising cat is how far above water level the boom is. I first noticed this looking at Catana 47’s for hire in New Caledonia and recently saw large Leopards 48 & 50 footers visiting Fremantle Sailing Club, here in Australia, and in all cases the boom seems to be at least 20 feet (6 metres) above the water. This seems to greatly increase the heeling moment and reduce the amount of wind required to capsize the vessel. Mind you at 20+ tons, the weight of the Leopards probably makes them a bit more resistant to capsize. But why does the rig need to be so far off the water?

Notice to Moderator After having read this article a couple or days back, I emailed naval architect mike waters, author of the specialist website SmallTriDesign to read the article and perhaps comment. Nearly a day ago, he emailed me back to say that he had, yet there’s been nothing posted from him and now I see a post with todays date. With his extensive knowledge and experience I would have thought his insight to be valuable to your readers and I was certainly looking forward to seeing his input. What happened?

Yes, PS .. what’s cookin ? Thought readers would be interested to know that capsize control help maybe on the way 😉

Yes PS, what’s cookin’ ? Thought your readers would like to know that some anti-capsize help maybe on the way 😉

Great article! I’ve read it twice so far. Recently in Tampa Bay I sailed my Dragonfly 28 in 25 knots breeze and found that speed was increased (drag reduced?) after I put in one reef in the main. I think I should have reefed the Genoa first?

Absolutely Tim. Slim hulls, as for most trimarans and the finer, lighter catamarans will often sail more efficiently with less sail .., especially if with a rotating mast, and you can indeed get proportionally better performance. The boat sails more upright for one thing, giving more sail drive from improved lift/drag and less hull resistance .. and its certainly safer and more comfortable and can also be drier, as an upright boat tends to keep wavetops passing underneath more effectively. Even my W17 design has been shown to achieve over 90% of its top speed with only 1/2 the sail area, by switching to a more efficient, high-aspect ratio ‘storm mainsail’ set behind its rotating wingmast …, a far cry from a monohulls storm trysail in terms of upwind efficiency. Yes, wind speed was higher, but the boat sailed far easier and its definitely something that slim hulled multihulls should explore more, as they will then also be less likely to capsize. More here if interested http://www.smalltridesign.com

Darrell, is there some reason for blocking replies that hold opinions contrary to those of PS ? I am still hoping to read the expertise of those who actually study design and sail multihulls. The written target of PS is to accurately present facts and that implies the input of experts. Over the last 10 years, I have come to appreciate a few experts in the field of multihulls and right now, I see at least one of them is not being given a voice here. Your article made a lot of fine points but there are some issues needing to be addressed if PS it to remain a trusted source for accurate information. First, I have been told by a reliable source, you need to separate trimarans from catamarans and use different criteria to compare their stability as they do not respond the same and neither can you judge their reserve stability in the same way. I would also like to know what NA Mike Waters was hinting at when he said “capsize control help may be on the way” .. would you know anything about that? If not, then please invite or allow him space or the promise of PS fact-finding accuracy is heading down the drain for me. thanks

As a new subscriber to PS, it is a little disquieting to see no response to the two comments above by Tom Hampton.

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Tacking and jibing a catamaran

Catamarans tend to tack and jibe more slowly than monohull dinghies , but provide better stability. This is particularly noticeable when jibing, which is comparatively easy to control. The technique for both maneuvers is very different from a center mainsheet dinghy .

TACKING TIPS

In a catamaran, the helmsman should steer into the tack with the rig powered up and the boat sailing at speed. Steer carefully through the tack; be aware that slamming the rudders over can make them act as brakes. Both crew should stay on the windward side until the jib has

As you start to tack, keep the jib backed in order to help turn the bows, as catamarans are often slow to turn through the wind. Highperformance catamarans with daggerboards can pivot more quickly through the turn.

The helmsman faces aft as he crosses the boat, easing the mainsheet before ducking underthe boom. The crew watches the mainsail carefully, waiting until the mainsail has filled on the new side.

backed. This will help to lift the leeward hull, so that the catamaran pivots on the inside hull. Keep both the mainsheet and jib sheet pulled in tight until the jib starts to back and the bows bear away on the new tack. The helmsman should face aft while moving across the boat, easing the mainsheet to help "pop" the battens into their new position and accelerate the catamaran on to the new tack.

Crossing the eye of the wind to windward is similar for catamarans and dinghies, but usually you are tacking from a close reach instead of a close hauled course.

When the mainsail has filled on the new side, the crew pulls in the jib on that side. The helmsman and crew take up their new positions, ready to accelerate on the new tack before luffing to the new close reaching course.

TACKING AND JIBING A CATAMARAN 147

JiBiNG Tips

Catamarans are easier to jibe than monohull dinghies because they are more stable, and are unlikely to capsize when both hulls are on the water. As with any sailing boat, jibing becomes more challenging in stronger winds. Be aware that if you steer a catamaran into a jibe at high speed and then slow right down, the apparent wind will swing behind the boat and power up the rig midway through the jibe. Keeping the boat at a steady speed throughout the turn is the surest way to maintain control. As with tacking, the helmsman should steer carefully and progressively through the maneuver to avoid turning the rudders into brakes and halting part way through the turn.

Crossing the eye of the wind on to a downwind course you are usually jibing from broad reach to broad reach.

Ithe catamaran is at maximum speed as it bears away into the jibe. In light winds especially, the crew weight should be kept forward so the sterns do not dig into the water and slow the boat.

2 the helmsman faces aft while the crew faces forward as they cross the trampoline. At the right moment, the helmsman must flip the tiller extension past the boom end, on to the new side.

4 Once the mainsail has jibed, the helmsman straightens the rudders to prevent the bows turning too far into the wind. In lighter winds, it may be necessary to "pump" the boom so the full length battens curve the right way.

3 the helmsman takes hold of the falls of the mainsheet to pull the mainsail over to complete the jibe, while at the same time steering through the downwind point on to the new course.

"we have salt in our blood, in our sweat, in our tears— we are tied to the ocean."

John Fitzgerald Kennedy

Catamaran capsize

When a catamaran capsizes, the crew need good technique in order to pull it up. This may include righting from a pitchpole or from total inversion.

A catamaran can capsize by being blown over sideways, or by driving the leeward bow into the water and "pitchpoling" (nosediving), as shown here. If you are out on the trapeze, try not to fall into the mainsail as this could break battens or push the boat upside down. Beware also of being thrown forward in a pitchpole, when the crew may swing around the bows as the boat suddenly decelerates. A catamaran floating on its side may be blown downwind faster than you can swim, so grab something as soon as you are in the water, to maintain contact. You can climb on to the lower hull of a capsized catamaran, or the underneath of the trampoline if it is upside down. Both are secure positions while you prepare to right.

PITCHPOLING

Catamarans have a tendency to dig the leeward bow into the water when unbalanced, resulting in a head-first capsize.

If the catamaran starts to invert, swim clear of the trampoline to ensure you are not trapped underneath the boat.

CATAMARAN CAPSIZE

If the catamaran is upside down, the crew should scramble onto the bottom hull, standing forward so that the bows swing around Into the wind. The boat will then be under control as It rights.

2 With both crew standingon the bottom hull, lead the righting line (normally in a pocket close to the mast base) overthe upper (windward) hull. Pull to lift the windward bow, helping the rig float to the surface.

3 Make sure all sheets are uncleated and pull again on the righting line to lift the rig out of the water. Once the wind can blow under the rig, giving additional lifting power, righting should be easy.

4 A lightweight crew may have insufficient leverage to lift the rig. One solution is for the crew to "piggyback" on the helmsman. If that does not work, a rescue boat may be needed to help lift the mast.

5 The catamaran will accelerate as it rolls upright. Both crew should drop into the water by the front beam, ready to hold the boat steady as the hull comes down, and prevent another capsize.

6 Climb back on board from the side. Climbing over the front beam can be difficult; clambering over the rear beam risks bruises or, more seriously, a bent tiller bar.

Continue reading here: Dinghy racing

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Readers' Questions

How do i turn my catamaran faster?

There are several ways you can potentially make your catamaran turn faster: Adjust the sail trim: Properly adjusting the sail trim can significantly affect the speed and maneuverability of your catamaran. Experiment with different sail settings, such as trimming the sails in more, letting them out slightly, or adjusting the angle of attack. This can help optimize your boat's performance in different wind conditions. Move crew weight: Shifting the weight of crew members can impact the catamaran's balance and stability, affecting its maneuverability. Refine your weight distribution, moving crew members and gear to improve the boat's ability to turn. For example, moving crew weight to the leeward side during turns can improve the boat's stability and responsiveness. Use the rudders effectively: The rudders are vital for controlling the direction and turning of the catamaran. Utilize your rudders strategically by applying slight pressure or adjustments to steer the boat more efficiently through turns. Practice using the rudders to initiate turns at the right time and angle to maximize performance. Optimize your route: Planning your route effectively can help you take advantage of wind shifts and currents to enhance your catamaran's turning ability. Analyze the wind patterns and choose your course wisely to achieve better angles during turns. Practice maneuvering techniques: Regularly practicing various maneuvering techniques can help you develop a better understanding of your catamaran's capabilities and improve your turning skills. This may include practicing tacking and gybing, mastering the timing and coordination required for smooth turns. Remember, every catamaran is unique, so it may require some experimentation and experience to determine the best techniques for maximizing your boat's turning ability. Safety should always be a priority, so ensure you have the necessary skills and knowledge before pushing the limits of your catamaran.

How to tack a catamaran dinghy?

Prepare your catamaran dinghy for tacking by taking out the rudder, mast, and sails. Stand in the center of the dinghy and prepare the sails for tacking by extending the spreader and headsail sheets out. Take one of the sheets in your hand and pull it tight while pushing the dinghy against the wind. Maintain the tension on the sheet and gradually start to turn the boat in the direction of the wind. At the same time, you want to shift your weight to the opposite side of the dinghy. Make sure to keep the sail full and to keep tension on the sheets. When the boat is about halfway through its tack, the sails should be 180° from their original angle. Make sure the sails remain full and finish the tack by allowing the sheets to be pulled tight. Once the tack is complete, make sure the dinghy is away from the wind, and you are ready to go.

How to successfully tack a catamaran?

Tacking a catamaran refers to changing the direction of the boat while sailing into the wind. Here are the steps to successfully tack a catamaran: Prepare the boat: Ensure that all equipment, sails, and rigging are in good condition and properly adjusted. Make sure you have a clear understanding of the boat's design and handling characteristics. Communication: If sailing with a crew, ensure proper communication and coordination between crew members. Assign roles and establish clear communication channels to avoid confusion during the tack. Determine wind direction: Observe the wind direction and identify the direction you want to sail toward. Prepare the sails: Ease the main sheet and release tension from the jib or jib sheets, allowing them to luff. Helm orientation: Steer the boat close-hauled, generally pointing at a 45-degree angle into the wind. Initiate the tack: To initiate the tack, turn the boat's bow through the wind to the opposite side. This should be done gradually to prevent excessive heeling or loss of control. Use the tiller or steering wheel to gradually turn the boat. Trim the jib: As the boat completes the turn and the sails start to fill on the opposite side, trim the jib sheet to tighten the jib. Trim the main sail: Once the sails are filled, trim the main sheet to achieve the desired sail trim for the new direction. Gradually tighten the sheet to prevent excessive heeling or overpowering the boat. Balance the boat: Make any necessary adjustments to maintain a balanced and controlled sailing position. Resume course: Once the tack is complete and the boat is on a new heading, resume sailing toward your desired direction. Remember, practice and experience play a significant role in successfully tacking a catamaran. It may take time to develop a feel for the boat's handling characteristics, so stay patient and keep practicing. Additionally, always prioritize safety by wearing appropriate safety gear and following boating regulations.

How to tack a catamaran?

Tacking a catamaran is very similar to tacking a monohull sailboat. When a boat is tacked, the sails change sides and the bow of the boat turns through the wind to the opposite side. On a catamaran this means clearing the leeward hull from the wind and pointing it so that it is heading evenly upwind. To do this, the jib sail is first eased and then sheeted in on the opposite side. The mainsail is then eased and trimmed to the other side. As the boat turns, the new leeward hull is pushed downwind and the windward hull is given larger angle of attack. Finally, the sails are trimmed to balance the boat.

Which is easier tacking or jibing?

Tacking is generally considered to be easier than jibing. Tacking involves changing direction by shifting the bow of the boat through the wind, while jibing involves changing direction by steering the stern of the boat through the wind. Jibing is often referred to as a "high-speed maneuver" and requires more control and skill to execute properly.

When to tack and jibe?

Tacking is when a boat turns its bow into the direction from which the wind is blowing. Jibing is when a boat turns its stern into the direction from which the wind is blowing.

How to jibe a catamaran?

To jibe a catamaran, start by making sure all sails are trimmed and secure. Make sure that the leeward hull is clear of any obstructions. Look back over your shoulder and as the stern of the boat swings around, pull the rudder towards you so that the boat turns into the wind. When the sail on the opposite side of the boat has filled, release the rudder and hold onto the boat's traveler, easing it to its original position. Finally, move the mainsheet to its original position.

Can you blow a catamaran over?

No, it is impossible to blow a catamaran over because its design is designed to be stable in the water. A catamaran's two hulls are wide and flat, which make them stable and resistant to tipping over.

How to right pitchpole catamaran?

To right a pitchpole catamaran, move the crew to the side of the boat that is facing up. Make sure that all crew members are facing in the same direction and ready to right the boat. Once the crew is in position, they should use their body weight to push the boat over while also swimming. With enough effort, the boat should eventually tip back over and begin to float again.

There’s a World of Danger Awaiting Solo Sailor : Pitchpoling and Broaching Are Scary, but Don’t Bother to Wear a Life Jacket

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Here are the chief risks faced by the solo sailors in the BOC Challenge: COLLISION

Being run down by a merchant ship is an ever-present hazard.

Sailboats are hard to spot at night. The merchant ship’s radar is usually scanning 25 miles ahead. A sailboat’s blip is easy to miss at that distance, and once inside that 25-mile radar radius, a sailboat can be run down without the merchantman’s crew even knowing it hit something.

Other collision risks include whales, which have been known to sink sailboats in retaliation for rude bumps; boxcar-sized steel containers that have fallen off merchant vessels and float level with the ocean’s surface; icebergs, and huge trees borne out to sea by rivers such as the Amazon.

This occurs when a sailboat is thrown sideways to the thrust of the waves.

It is hard to describe the scale of the waves in the Southern Ocean, the waters of the Indian Ocean south of Australia. Photographs tend to flatten them. Aerial views fail to show their true height.

The great waves of the roaring forties and furious fifties of south latitude can be near-mountains with quarter-mile-long slopes. They are benign if that slope is 30 degrees or less. Any steeper and they are dangerous.

A sailboat appears at the crest of such a watery cliff and starts down. The wind is driving the 60-foot boat at 12 knots or more. Just past the crest, gravity contributes its force and the boat starts to careen down the slope at a perilous speed. The knotmeter pegs at 20, but the boat continues accelerating.

It begins to sound like a runaway freight car--a metallic thing that is vibrating and screaming from mechanical stress on all its parts and rigging.

It is then that a broach is likely. The boat loses its directional stability. Now it is broadside to the wave, which, if it breaks then, will roll the boat. Or the boat slides broadside into the bottom of the trough and is rolled there--90 degrees, 130, 180. It is upside down, its mast pointing straight down at the ocean floor 2,500 fathoms below. Tremendous forces try to snap the mast.

Finally, the keel, weighing five tons or more, levers the boat upright. If the sailor is lucky, his mast isn’t broken.

France’s Jacques de Roux was not lucky.

In the first race, his Skoiern III broached, rolled and came back up with the mast down and banging against the side of his aluminum boat. A foot-long slice was cut into the hull below the waterline. The boat was doomed.

De Roux was taken off his sinking boat three days later by another competitor. He had bailed three out of every four hours for those three days.

De Roux was below when he rolled. Fellow Frenchman Guy Bernardin, aboard his boat, Ratso, was above in the cockpit when he was knocked upside down in the Southern Ocean. Unlike De Roux, he was incredibly lucky.

“I wrapped my arms around the winch when I saw it going over,” Guy said.

Then he felt the force of the solid water hit him. “It pulled me away from the winch like I was a baby. Then I was under water. I couldn’t see anything.”

As Bernardin flailed his arms, his hand closed on a running backstay, a cable that helps support the mast.

The boat came back right side up. Bernardin found himself hanging from the stay, several feet above the cockpit. He let go and dropped into the cockpit and safety.

Had his hand missed the backstay, Bernardin’s disappearance would have remained a mystery forever. “Overdue. Presumed lost.” The sailor’s terse epitaph.

PITCHPOLING

A pitchpole occurs in the same circumstance as a broach. The boat careens down the face of a huge wave. But instead of turning broadside to, it buries its bow in the opposite wall of water in the trough. The boat then cartwheels, or pitchpoles, end over end.

In the Indian Ocean in the first race, American Tony Lush experienced a combination roll and pitchpole, which he described as a sort of a “half gainer.” The force of the violent episode broke the keel loose on his boat, Lady Pepperell, and forced him to conclude that he had to abandon ship.

At this juncture, Lush threw up. Abandoning ship, even with Francis Stokes sailing to his aid, meant that he would have to secure a line around himself, jump into the water and be pulled to Stokes’ boat. The prospect sickened him. Lush can’t swim.

RUNNING AGROUND

For thousands of years, the lee shore, into which the wind is blowing, has been one of sailing’s greatest hazards. It proved to be so for the solo sailors in the 1982-83 around-the-world race.

First, Britain’s Desmond Hampton in Gypsy Moth V and the closest challenger to Phillipe Jeantot for the race lead, fell asleep while his 56-foot ketch was being steered by windvane. The wind shifted, and the vane steering, dependent solely on wind direction for the course, shifted Gypsy Moth’s heading, carrying it in to shore.

Hampton awoke when his boat hit rocky Gabo Island off the south coast of Australia.

Surf and rock destroyed the boat, the last sailed by the late Sir Francis Chichester, the father of modern single-handed voyaging. It had been lent to Hampton by Chichester’s son, Giles.

Weeks later, although keenly aware of Hampton’s fate, New Zealand’s Dick McBride set his windvane, poured himself a cup of coffee and fell soundly asleep. He awoke as his schooner, City of Dunedin, struck a desolate, stony beach called Craigie Lea on East Falkland Island.

It took the British Navy and the Falklanders 29 days to get McBride and his stout steel boat off the beach and afloat again, whereupon he finished the race.

FALLING OVERBOARD

Single-handed sailors don’t wear life jackets. They wear harnesses to which they connect a safety line equipped with a snap hook. The safety line is then snapped onto lines, called jacklines, that stretch the length of the deck.

In theory, the solo sailor should have the safety line connected to the boat at all times. In practice, he doesn’t. The safety line has an annoying penchant for hanging up on obstacles, impeding progress around the deck.

Safety lines, therefore, tend to be used only in heavy going with water breaking on deck, and then only when the sailor reaches a point, the mast or the bow, where he needs both hands to accomplish something that will take a little time.

Every solo sailor knows that he or she must not fall overboard. A dismasting, holing, running out of water or food, running aground--all of these can be survived.

But a sailor, alone on a moving boat, cannot survive a fall into the sea. No swimmer can catch a boat that’s moving at even a few knots.

Hence the absence of life jackets. No one wants to postpone the end by staying afloat.

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Pitchpoled in the Pacific in an open boat – survival depends on crossing a deadly Pacific Island reef

• April 24, 2017

Tom Cunliffe introduces an extract from 'A Single Wave' the tale of author Webb Chiles's extraordinary brush with death in the Pacific Ocean.

Webb Chiles is a one-off, writes Tom Cunliffe . The first American to sail single-handed around Cape Horn, he has circumnavigated five times, mostly in small craft, some of them open.

His philosophy is perhaps best described in his own words:  ‘People who know of me at all probably do so as a sailor; but I have always thought of myself as an artist, and I believe that the artist’s defining responsibility is to go to the edge of human experience and send back reports.’

To serve this end, fulfilled to a rare degree, he has written a number of books. In A Single Wave from Sheridan House, he describes three voyages.

This extract is from his 1979 voyage on Chidiock Tichborne , an 18ft open Drascombe Lugger. He has already sailed from San Diego to the South Pacific.

Fourteen days before the narrative begins, he was pitchpoled, swamped and kept afloat only by her air tanks. The rig was badly damaged leaving him drifting.

Unable to clear the boat of water because of the open centreboard case, he launched his inflatable and settled down to drift with the current towards the New Hebrides.

How many more long days and nights: four? Forty? A hundred and four? And what was at the end: an island? A ship? Death?

I drifted on.

The blackness that came in the night was a cliff. I went to sit in the chest-deep water, trying to steer the swamped Chidiock Tichborne clear of an island, which, after promising life when I first spotted it, had become just another face of death.

Through rain-streaked glasses, I caught a glimpse of the ghostly line of surf at the base of the cliff, less than a quarter mile away. If we drifted much closer, I would have to abandon Chidiock and take my chances in the inflatable.

But I did not know if I could row the dinghy in such waves, now more than ten feet high and growing steeper as the long swell from the open ocean touched the rising seabed below.

The inflatable dinghy that served as a Pacific liferaft.

My body was filled with numbness and pain. The tiller and all of Chidiock but the mast were below the water.

We were ‘sailing’ on the 20 square feet of chafing patch on the mainsail. I only hoped that by keeping the bow pointed in the direction of a broad reach, we might clear this island.

From the waist down I had lost sensation, except for agony when I bumped the ulcers on my feet and ankles against the fibreglass floor. My back and neck were on fire.

Always the fire smouldered and at intervals it flared into a spasm of white-hot pain. There was nothing to do at such moments but hang onto the tiller and wait for the pain to pass.

Don’t fail me, body. Don’t fail before the sky begins to lighten.

A wave loomed high above me, the highest wave I had seen from Chidiock , a wall of water as high as the yawl was long. Here we go, I thought. This one is going to break.

Chidiock started up the steep rise. The wave lifted me from her.

I clung to the tiller, no longer steering, just hanging on until the tiller pointed straight up and I was floating at arm’s length above the submerged hull. Within a few yards the comber disappeared into the darkness, but I heard its roar as it slammed into the cliff.

We were not going to clear this end of the island. The cliff was now less than 300 yards away and the waves were becoming steeper.

Without warning a wave broke. Because she was already beneath the sea, Chidiock could not really capsize, but she rolled ponderously onto her side and I was washed away.

My legs were useless. They trailed like vestigial appendages on whatever form of life I was evolving into, as I fought to swim back to the yawl using only my arms.

Chidiock Tichborne remained on her side. This view of her no longer seemed unusual.

If anything, in the 13 days since the pitchpole, I had come to have unlimited confidence in her. The sea could strip everything movable from her, toss her around like a toy, fill her with water; and she would patiently survive.

My legs persisted in their refusal to function, so I could not stand on the centreboard, but the weight of my upper body was enough to right the yawl. We had drifted closer to the island, but we also seemed to have drifted along.

Perhaps all my struggling had been unnecessary. Perhaps if I had simply let us drift, we would have been saved by blind chance, for it was now obvious that we were being carried along the coast faster than we were being carried in.

I could not yet be certain that we were moving fast enough, so I remained at the tiller, more or less holding the bow in the right direction.

Riding sideways up great curling waves just beyond a line of thundering surf, I fell asleep.

My eyes closed and my head fell forward. Reflex snapped it back, which ignited the flames along my spine.

Each spasm had been worse than the one before, and this was a summation. I wondered if it would ever end.

Could so much pain come from a muscle spasm? Whatever the cause, the pain served to keep me awake until we were carried safely past the island, and I was able to collapse into the relative dryness of the dinghy alongside, and rest.

Off Tahiti in 1979 – a few months before the pitchpole.

Dawn was delayed by a squall. When it passed I saw that six or seven miles directly ahead of us lay two more islands: one, a small, sheer peak jutting from the sea; the other with three 2,000ft peaks, about which the squall line lingered.

I pushed myself up and ate a breakfast of half a dozen crackers, raspberry jam, a can of pears, and a handful of peanuts, washed down with unlimited water.

At the first sight of land, rationing ended. The need for energy far outweighed the possibility that I might not be able to get ashore and have to drift on. I even drank two precious bottles of Coca-Cola.

I had predicted landfall in the New Hebrides at two weeks from the pitchpole, and here we were, two weeks later to the day, but I still had to reach shore alive. The size of the waves worried me, as did the nature of the shore.

The first outpost of man

Of a few things I was certain: beyond the island ahead of me lay only the open ocean for 1,400 miles to Australia; landing would be safer on the leeward side of the island; I must be on land before night; I dreaded the physical pain of returning to Chidiock , but I did so anyway.

The first moment of re-immersion was almost unbearable, but then my feet and legs went numb and I forgot them. As I tried to sail Chidiock , the sun broke through the clouds and turned the small island bright green.

For another hour the larger island remained shrouded, but then the sky cleared and it too turned emerald. And I saw a house.

I could not take my eyes from it, the first outpost of man, which during the days adrift I had thought I might never see again. A while later, a column of smoke rose from farther up the mountain side.

Once again, no matter how I tried to sail, Chidiock was carried sideways by the current. In the night the current had saved us, now we were being carried away from land.

When there were only three hours of daylight remaining, I knew that I could not get Chidiock ashore before dark, if ever. Sadly I returned to the inflatable, cast off, and began to row.

The gap between the boats widened. The dinghy rowed well as I quartered wind and wave.

I was still too far off to determine anything of the shore, except that midway along the island mist filled the air as though from heavy surf.

There was no question of rowing around to the leeward side. I had neither the time nor the strength, though I was buoyed by the certainty that an end would come before sunset.

As I rowed I gazed back at Chidiock Tichborne . We had been through so much: 7,000 miles since San Diego.

Leaving San Diego in 1978 aboard Chidiock Tichborne.

I waited for one last glimpse of her. There she was on a crest, torn sails fluttering, awash, valiant. I engraved this image in my mind and then deliberately turned away.

Battling the breaking waves

For an hour I rowed hard, managing to get across wind and current. Then I rested and drank a Coke as we drifted closer.

Individual palm trees became distinguishable, and a second house on the hillside not far from the first, but no village that might mark a pass or a landing.

The waves started to build before I saw the beach. For a quarter mile out from it lay the smooth turquoise waters of a lagoon. Life. And between me and the lagoon was the reef.

When I was close to the surf line, I began rowing along the shore, searching for a pass. There was none. Only an unbroken line of surf, between three and five breakers deep, increasing in violence into the distance.

I turned and tried to row back but the dinghy was caught in the sweep of the seas.

Suddenly the ocean changed colour and I saw coral reaching toward me. Any place was as good as any other. The coral would slice me up, but if I could protect my head, I should survive. I turned in.

At first I went slowly, trying to get a feel for the rhythm of the waves. I backed water as the dinghy trembled on a crest that almost broke beneath us; then I rowed as hard as I could.

The next wave rose. Still rowing I noted the lovely translucent blue of the water as it climbed to the sky. I even had time to think that this might be the last thing I ever noticed.

The wave toppled and threw us out, up, and forward. The dinghy’s bow was dropping, and I dived toward the stern in an attempt to balance it.

The wave passed and I came up for a breath, surprised to find myself still inside the dinghy with the oars in my hands. The second wave was worse than the first.

My sense of direction was lost. I fell backwards as the dinghy stood on its head while the wave swept us along. I forgot my intention to protect my head with my arms, and rose once again with oars in hand, rowing.

The third wave was smaller than the first two and less dangerous. I was able to keep my head above water, though neck deep in foam. Then it too passed and instinctively I was again rowing for my life.

The moment when I realised that there was no need, that we were through, that we had made it without even a scratch, came abruptly. The wild ride over the reef, the days of doubt adrift, the solitary struggle, and now I was going to live. I really was going to live.”

Against all odds, Chidiock Tichborne was saved. Webb Chiles continued his voyage as far as Saudi Arabia where he was arrested as a spy and his boat impounded.

As of the end of April 2017, Chiles was in St Lucia on Gannet , his ultra-light Moore 24, bound for San Diego to complete his sixth circumnavigation, updating his blog regularly . All his books can be downloaded on Kindle. His website www.inthepresentsea.com is a must – especially for his past exploits.

The inflatable dinghy and its contents taken minutes after landing at Emae.

Webb Chiles self-portrait taken minutes after landing at Emae.

Webb Chiles aboard his Moore 24 “GANNET,” sailing out of San Diego’s Quivira Basin in February of 2014. Photograph by: Steve Earley

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What does it take to pitchpole a boat?

• Thread starter DuckHunterJon
• Start date Aug 9, 2010

DuckHunterJon

Lieutenant junior grade.

• Aug 9, 2010

Saturday, we had the boat out in Chaumont Bay, NY. In the morning it was like glass. We went out fishing, came back in for lunch, then went back out and skied for a while in the afternoon. Around dinner time, we decided not to leave it tied up to my parents dock as we would be heading up to the St Lawrence early Sunday morning. We heading back to the boat launch (about 4 miles), and the wind was really picking up. I wanted to go out around a shoal marker, and was heading out into bigger water. The waves were progressivly getting bigger, but I kept asking my wife and she said she was fine with it. We were getting a little spray over the bow, but nothing more than spray. About 25 yards out, I saw a set of big waves. I'd say they were 4 -5 feet, 3 in a row. I know I didn't want they to hit us from the side, so I steered towards them. The boat rode up on the first one, came down, rode up on the second one. That time it came down right into the third. I was standing, and watched the bow punch about a foot under the top of that wave. Bear in mind, my Procraft sits low to the water, and the bow slopes down in the front. The water came over the bow, up the windshield, and knocked me clear over the helm seat and into the back of the seat. Motor killed as I pulled the tether off. I got back to the seat, fired it back up, made a hard port turn, and was with the waves heading back to shore. I was a bit scared, but figured we're out of the worst of it, heading back in around the shoal marker. The waves were coming at our stern, and quickly, I was taking water over the bow when each wave would push the stern up, and force the bow down. After about 3 of these, I was able to find the right speed to stay on the back side of a wave, and rode it most of the way in to the launch. Question, while the initial bow over the wave was a little scary, it was very quick, the boat pretty much punched through it. On the way back in, however, the bow would dive into the wave ahead of it, and pretty much sit there. Seemed like slow motion. I don't want to relive it - but my question is how close were we to pitch poling? I don't imagine it was a possibility, but I'm not sure how much it takes to flip a boat forwards. Has anyone experienced it and can give and idea of what it took? Thanks.  

Re: What does it take to pitchpole a boat? this is a fair vid. of pitch poling... http://www.boattest.com/Partners/Partner-Main.aspx?lp_id=3211148&t=VLIBRARY&Videoid=1909&p=0&s= looks to me like what takes place in pitch poling is the bow gets stuffed into the trough and stopped by a wave over taking a boat from the back. if the wave is large enough and it lifts the stern high enough, it'll flip it end over end. ya did right riding on the back of a wave...  

Re: What does it take to pitchpole a boat? Thanks for the video link. That's exactly what was happening, only to a much lesser extent. Judging by the animation, and and my own thinking, I would think the height of the waves would have to be somewhere around half the length of the boat to over turn it. We weren't even close, but was still scary taking enough water on for the bilge pump to run for about minutes straight.  

Senior Chief Petty Officer

Re: What does it take to pitchpole a boat? Depends on the boat. Based on my experience on a catamaran sailboat (Hobie 16) not a lot. However, that is a different animal entirely. I had never even thought that a power boat could pitchpole. I would think that conditions would require high speed, high center of gravity, and stuffing the bow. (At least those were the required conditions on the Hobie.) Of those, you have full control over speed, some control over center of gravity, and some control over the chance of stuffing the bow. On the Hobie, I also had a high center of thrust (thrust centered high on the sail). Fortunately the Hobie was design to take a pitchpole. No loose running gear, no motor, and no electronics. Even then a pitchpole on a catamaran is a WILD ride. On a power boat, it would be a nightmare! Thanks for bringing back some great memories. TerryMSU  

Rear Admiral

• Aug 10, 2010

Re: What does it take to pitchpole a boat? Pitch pole a boat is usually deadly but I never heard of it going into a sea. It normally happeneds with a following sea. This is one time when you want the trim tabs and the motor trim set for a high bow. Riding the back side of the swell near the top but never go over. If you go over the boat gains speed down the face and bow drives into the back side of the next wave and the swell behind pushes the stern over the top. Going into the swell you must slow down but keep enough power for good steering to make sure the swell does not push the bow to one side or the other causeing the boat to brouch and capsize. Going into the swell it ok to let the wave push you backwards as long as you keep on enough power to maintain steering. I try and watch 3 swells ahead and you can usually steer around the steepest swells. Ofcourse every boat has it limits and you must learn what it is and respect the sea. My 21 foot boat is 8 feet every 8 seconds. We been out in 9 feet every 6 seconds but headed in way early. It was still safe but no fun and lot of danger if you make a mistake.  

VIDEO - a sailboat pitchpoles while sailing under spinnaker

August 11 2019

Written by Yachting Art Magazine

Sailing under spinnaker isn't so eas y, especially when wind conditions become stronger ! 

This video was filmed off La Grande Motte (France), during a training session of Xavier Maquaire, aboard his Bénéteau Figaro II .

Xavier Macaire was the skipper and Yves Le Blevec his guest onboard. They were sailing 15 knots, when they decided to launch the spinnaker.

The boat nosedived in less than two seconds. Fortunately, nobody was injured in the pitchpole, but the video is impressive, isn't it ?  

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Category : Troitsk, Chelyabinsk Oblast

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Authority file   VIAF ID: GND ID: Library of Congress authority ID: National Library of Israel J9U ID: OpenStreetMap relation ID: Subcategories This category has the following 7 subcategories, out of 7 total. Aerial photographs of Troitsk, Chelyabinsk Oblast ‎ (1 F) Culture of Troitsk, Chelyabinsk Oblast ‎ (8 C) Graves in Troitsk, Chelyabinsk Oblast ‎ (2 F) History of Troitsk ‎ (5 C, 2 F) Nature of Troitsk, Chelyabinsk Oblast ‎ (4 C, 9 F) People of Troitsk, Chelyabinsk Oblast ‎ (15 C, 12 F) Transport in Troitsk, Chelyabinsk Oblast ‎ (3 C) Navigation menu 351 IMAGES Nacra F18 Catamaran pitchpole 10/24/11 Prindle 15 (P15) catamaran. Sailing + pitchpole Catamaran Pitch Pole at WMRT Russia 2017 That Pitchpole Catamaran Pitchpole saved Capsize VIDEO Catamaran Pitchpole saved Big pitchpole with the Hobie FX one Hobie 16 Pitchpole Asko skiff Cartwheel 2007 2/25 Hobie 16 pitchpole and righting HOBIE 14 PITCHPOLE ON THE FINISH LINE COMMENTS How to avoid a pitchpole Shift crew weight aft to help avoid a potential pitchpole. Assess the situation and dump the main if she starts to roll to leeward. PAUL LARSEN is officially the world's fastest sailor. In 2012 ... Sailing Catamarans Even the last generation of Prouts were wider than earlier versions. So I say it again. It is a myth to say that just making a catamaran wider means it will pitchpole. There are many more important factors that determine whether a boat will pitchpole or not than just the hull spacing. Woods Designs offer multihull designs, power catamarans and ... Q+A Live: How to Prevent the Pitchpole, and othe catamaran sailing all classes of beach catamaran are discussed here - we'll be talking about your issues with the sailing, boat handling and maintenance issues that you are ha... how common is pitchpoling? I read about one backwards pitchpole on a catamaran lying to a parachute sea anchor. In this case, the parachute bridle was attached to cleats on the forward crossbeam. The yacht had a wave strike on the bow, and the impact ripped the crossbeam out of the boat, and pushed the boat backwards. The Pitchpole ☞ SUPPORT JOYRIDER TV⛵️Channel Membership https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1lH...⛵️Patreon https://www.patreon.com/joseph_bennett ⛵️Getting a T-shirt ... Hull Hydrodynamics and Design 2.2.1 Pitch stability (Porpoising and Pitchpole) As mentioned in chapter 1, pitch stability tends to be a problem for sailing catamarans due to the elevated thrust position and the fine demi-hull bows which offer very little buoyancy and planing effects to resist a forward pitching motion. That Pitchpole You've seen the raw video of the USA Sailing Team Nacra 17 sailors Ravi Parent and Caroline Atwood, so now hear how that epic pitchpole unfolded during their... Multihull Capsize Risk Check In the 70s and 80s, most catamarans were designed with considerable flare in the bow, like other boats of the period. This will keep the bow from burying, right? Nope. When a hull is skinny it can always be driven through a wave, and wide flare causes a rapid increase in drag once submerged, causing the boat to slow and possibly pitchpole. Tacking and jibing a catamaran To right a pitchpole catamaran, move the crew to the side of the boat that is facing up. Make sure that all crew members are facing in the same direction and ready to right the boat. Once the crew is in position, they should use their body weight to push the boat over while also swimming. With enough effort, the boat should eventually tip back ... There's a World of Danger Awaiting Solo Sailor : Pitchpoling and A pitchpole occurs in the same circumstance as a broach. The boat careens down the face of a huge wave. But instead of turning broadside to, it buries its bow in the opposite wall of water in the ... Hobie Forums • View topic hawk592. Post subject: Anti pitch pole hydro foil. Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 6:11 am. Site Rank - Admiral. Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 6:02 am. Posts: 177. Location: Hanover, PA. I have a 14 turbo and I am looking into getting a set of hydro foils as featured in Hobie's parts and accessories catalog. I am on the heavy side (225 lbs ish) and thought ... Pitchpoled in the Pacific in an open boat If anything, in the 13 days since the pitchpole, I had come to have unlimited confidence in her. The sea could strip everything movable from her, toss her around like a toy, fill her with water ... What does it take to pitchpole a boat? On the Hobie, I also had a high center of thrust (thrust centered high on the sail). Fortunately the Hobie was design to take a pitchpole. No loose running gear, no motor, and no electronics. Even then a pitchpole on a catamaran is a WILD ride. On a power boat, it would be a nightmare! Thanks for bringing back some great memories. TerryMSU VIDEO This video was filmed off La Grande Motte (France), during a training session of Xavier Maquaire, aboard his Bénéteau Figaro II. Xavier Macaire was the skipper and Yves Le Blevec his guest onboard. They were sailing 15 knots, when they decided to launch the spinnaker. The boat nosedived in less than two seconds. Catamaran Pitchpole Ollie and Kelly Jason Pitchpole their Nacra 20 catamaran during the US SAILING Multihull Championship for the Alter Cup in March of 2006. Show less. Recommended. 1:56. I. Up next. Tybee500-Day2-TeamSeacats. Jake Kohl (Team Seacats) 2:03. Tybee 500 Day 1 (Team Seacats) Jake Kohl (Team Seacats) 8:47. THE BEST Chelyabinsk Observation Decks & Towers Top Chelyabinsk Observation Decks & Towers: See reviews and photos of Observation Decks & Towers in Chelyabinsk, Russia on Tripadvisor. Category:Troitsk, Chelyabinsk Oblast Troitsk, Chelyabinsk Oblast. From Wikimedia Commons, the free media repository. English: Troitsk (Russian: Тро́ицк) is a town in Chelyabinsk Oblast, Russia, located on a tributary of the upper Tobol River approximately 110 kilometers south of Chelyabinsk. Population: 83,862 (2002 Census). Русский: Город Троицк ... Small Catamaran, Big Pitchpole ☞ SUPPORT JOYRIDER TV⛵️Channel Membership https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1lH...⛵️Patreon https://www.patreon.com/joseph_bennett ⛵️Getting a T-shirt ... Category:Governors of Chelyabinsk Oblast Y. Mikhail Yurevich. Categories: Heads of the federal subjects of Russia. Politics of Chelyabinsk Oblast. People from Chelyabinsk Oblast. Hidden category: Commons category link is on Wikidata. Miass in 4K Miass is a small city in Chelyabinsk Oblast, Russia. There is a old street and beautiful lake. In the nostalgic atmosphere you would feel that you came home.... catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht