rigging a sailboat mast

How to Tune a Sailboat Mast

Here are some general guidelines for tuning your mast’s standing rigging . please see our blog on  how to properly adjust a turnbuckle  before you begin. as always we recommend seeking the advice of a professional rigger for more specific tips and tricks regarding tuning your boat’s rigging..

Your boat must be in the water. Begin by just slacking off all of the side shrouds as evenly as possible, so that all stays can be adjusted by hand. Once loose, try and adjust all turnbuckles so that they are pretty much equally open (or closed) from port to starboard respectfully. Also go ahead and line up the cotter pin holes (if present) in the studs so that they are in a pin-able position. Now is also the time to balance out the threads, between the upper and lower studs of the turnbuckle, IF they are not even. Do this by unpinning the turnbuckle from the chainplate – BE CAREFUL HERE –  to ensure the mast is secure before unpinning any one stay. Lastly, loosen all halyards or anything that may pull the mast to port, starboard, forward or aft.

1.  Check by sighting up the backside of the mast to see how straight your spar is side to side. You can take a masthead halyard from side to side to ensure that the masthead is on center. Do this by placing a wrap of tape 3′ up from the upper chainplate pin hole on each upper shroud. Cleat the halyard and pull it to the tape mark on one side, mark the halyard where it intersects the tape on the shroud. Now do this to the other side, the mark on the halyard should also intersect the tape similarly. Please note: when the mast is equipped with port and starboard sheaves, instead of just one center-line sheave, it will appear slightly off to one side. Just keep this in mind……

2.  Using the upper shrouds as controls, center the masthead as much as possible using hand tension only. Some masts are just crooked. If yours is(are) crooked, it will reveal itself when you loosen all of the stays and halyards initially and sight up the mast. Although you should use hand tension only, you can use a wrench to hold the standing portion (the stay portion) of the turnbuckle. If for some reason the shroud is totally slack and you still can’t turn the turnbuckle by hand then the turnbuckle may need to be serviced, inspected, and maybe replaced.

3.  Tune the mast from the top shroud on-down, making sure the mast is in column.  Remember:   as you tension one shroud by adjusting the turnbuckle, to loosen the opposing shroud the same amount.

4.  Once the mast is fairly straight from side to side, tighten the shrouds all evenly using tools for tensioning. Typically, for proper tension, the shrouds should be tightened using these guidelines; uppers are the tightest, and then fwd. lowers, then the aft lowers and intermediates should be hand tight plus just a turn or two. ~ With an in-mast furler it is recommended to tension the aft lower a bit more to promote a straighter spar (fore and aft) for better furling. 

5.  Now you can tension the aft most backstay (s). If the backstay has an adjuster it should be set at a base setting (500-1000 lbs). If the backstay simply has a turnbuckle then it should be tightened well. After this has been done, in either situation (adjustable or static backstay), one should site up the mast from a-beam and notice that the masthead has a ‘slight’ aft bias. If there is no aft bias, too much, or the mast is inverted (leaning forward), then the forward most forestay (s) will most likely need to be adjusted to correct this. If a furler is present then seek the council of a professional rigger or refer to your furler’s manual for instructions on how to access the turnbuckle if there is one present.

6.   Finally, sight up the mast one last time and make any necessary adjustments.  

7.  MAKE SURE ALL TURNBUCKLES AND PINS HAVE  COTTER PINS AND ARE TAPED NEATLY  TO PREVENT CHAFE!

Read HERE for how to use a LOOS & Co. Tension Gauge!

Here is a little vid from our friend Scott at  Selden Masts  (click the link then hints and advice for more info) on rig tune…..

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcCALZ4x6R4&w=420&h=315]

Is your mast fractionally rigged, only has a single set of lowers or is just plain different? Be sure to leave any  questions or comments below.

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61 Comments

Hi, I have a masthead 3 swept spreader adjustable backstay Evelyn 25 and I have been trying to find information on rigg tuning for this boat with no luck. Closest thing I come up with is a J24. Can you shed any light or point the way on tuning this great boat?

Thanks for the read and for reading the comment section first. Evelyn’s were great boats, still are if maintained. You say you have 3 spreaders?? That would be unusual for that LOA. From What I recall about the Evelyn is the spreaders are not swept aft at all, but straight out. Correct me if I am wrong and if different send us some pics to [email protected] to discuss further.

One thought is have you played with headstay length? So with back stay adjuster all the way off, the headstay should be very slack and the mast should be very straight up and down when looking at the boat from a-beam. If not, adjust the headstay and the backstay length to achieve a straight mast with almost NO rake.

The other tips are, as you’ve read, ensure the static tune is correct, e.g. masthead centered and the rest of the rig is in column. As for tension, since it is a race boat, start with the lowers and the intermediates pretty soft. Next go sailing close hauled and adjust leeward shrouds as needed to {just} remove slack, count the turns, tack and add the same amount of turns on the other side. The shrouds should go slack in the puffs, and in the really light stuff set the rig as light as you are comfortable with…then maybe take another turn off ;-0). You can purchase a Loose tension gauge to THEN start recording the various tensions at various wind/ wave conditions, make a chart for ease of future duplication.

The next step, if you can, gauge yourself off of another Evelyn25, beating and running, that would be ideal. If not other Evelyn 25’s are available, pick a similar design to match. Then see if your lower/slower, going upwind, or higher/slower, going down wind. If you can narrow things down to being a specific problem it will help you begin to identify the fix; which could be rig tune, sail/ boat trim, the sail themselves, or any combination thereof. Fix the rig tune 1st, then the sail and boat trim, then once you are feeling pretty good about that…..get some new sails!!!

….all of this taking into account that the hull and it’s foils are clean and fair.

Win the start, then extend your lead.

Great article to start with, I too am looking for some tips to tune my Evelyn 25. The 1rst year I rigged and tuned the mast the boat seemed very fast, (of course I didn’t write anything down). The next year did not have the same results, in fact it was terrible. Apparently I didn’t remember what I did the 1rst time. I’ve read through a bunch of the questions trying to glean tidbits from here and there, but need a little help. I have a 3 swept back spreader mast, with adjustable backstay . Any insight would be greatly appreciated

I have a fractional rig with a cap shroud and one lower V1. The spreaders are swept aft with no backstay, and the rig is set up for a fathead main. The worse diameter is 5mm. The boat is 23 feet long. Could you provide any tuning advice for this style of rig. The past owner said he set the rig up at 10% breaking strength on the upper and 4% on the lowers which seemed really low for this style of rig. Any input would be very helpful as we go to rig the boat tomorrow

If you look at our reply below for the FarEast 23R tuning explanation, this should help shine some light on the topic. As far as percentage of breaking strength is concerned, just ensure a good static (dock) tune, then sail-tune setting tensions to the minimum requirement, and don’t exceed 30% of breaking strength.

Cheers, ~T.R.C.

Any hints with tuning a sportboat that only has a set of uppers, a short forestay and no backstay????

Just got an email from someone else with almost the same question, for a FarEast 23r. Since I don’t know what Sport boat you have, I’ll just copy and paste my reply here. Generally, these “guidelines” work for just about ANY type of sailboat. The article is trying to focus on the concept of mast tuning rather than specific numbers, but also touch on how a guide can be created that is specific to YOUR boat and your style of sailing.

Thanks for the comment and enjoy the read.

“The Fareast 23r looks like a fun boat and simple in terms of rigging. I am a bit surprised that there isn’t any real support offered to the aft end of the top of the mast given the masthead kite. The boat must sail at enough of an angle downwind when loaded that the main leech and vang support the masthead….. but it must work.

As for appropriate tension, in terms of what’s fast, you will need to dig into the class a bit and figure out who’s figured out what. Ultimately the maker of your sails should have some data in terms of prebend for the mainsail and perhaps even jib luff curve (a.k.a. intended sag). If you can gather that info, I would do a static dock tune and then make adjustments until I achieve the sailmakers recommended pre-bend.

Additionally, you may be able to start with the Fareast 28r’s base setting for just V1 and D1 and try that to get started. Or at least see how that compares to the previous owners’ notes.

I haven’t’ sailed the boat but as a general guideline, and as you will read in the comment section of this article, you will need to start with good dock tune. The amount of tension is irrelevant at this point, contentedness and straightness is numero uno….. and then just the order of tension.

Order of Tension (Single aft swept spreader rig) – the uppers are the tighter of the two: upper and lower. The upper is in charge of providing you headstay sag (or tension). The lower will allow the mast to create mid mast bend, or keep it from bending. The forestay length gets adjusted to affect the mast’s rake, the amount aft lean.

Once a straight and centered mast with adequate rake and a touch of pre-bend is achieved (static tune), using hand tension only and you can’t tighten it ‘by hand’ any further, add three or four whole turns to the uppers and one full turn to the lower. If you have pre-bend recommendations, now check them and adjust as needed. Then go sailing close hauled, ensure you are trimmed and canvased correctly given the condition, and observe the leeward shrouds.

IF the leeward shrouds are flailing about loosely in the lulls, add tension by hand while sailing until they just begin to fetch up. Count the number of turns, tack and do the same thing on the other side.

IF the leeward shrouds aren’t slightly moving in the lulls, you’re likely a bit a tight and you should do the opposite of the above procedure.

For me, while sailing close hauled, properly trimmed, and properly canvased, if I see the leeward shrouds just starting to slack in the puffs or waves, then I feel like the boat’s tune is typically pretty dialed in. Then if I want to make cheat sheet “Tuning Guide” when I get back to the dock, I pull out my loose gauge, pen and paper and note: today’s wind and wave condition, and the Loos Gauge setting that I thought was ideal.

Soon you’ll have created the Fareast 23r Tuning Guide😉

Hope that helps.”

I have a 1965 Alberg 30. On a starboard tack the boat has more weather helm than on a port tack. I have not been able to achieve a balanced helm on either tack. New full batten main, new 150 roller furl genoa.

Other than the boat being evenly ballasted from port to starboard, e.g. holding tanks, fuel tanks, below deck furnishings, and storage items, I would check the rig from side to side. A crooked mast or poor static tune can result in the boat sailing differently on both tacks. A good way to test this is either sighting up the mast at the dock to ensure that the mast is relatively straight side to side and in column. You can also see that when beating (aka hard on the wind), you have to make adjustment’s to the mainsail sheet tension (NOTE: the traveler will likely need to be adjusted to mirror the same setting as on the previous tack). If notice that with the traveler in the same position on each respective tack that the sail is bubbling or flogging more on one tack than on the other, it is likely necessary to re-tune the mast. This can be done at the dock by following the guidelines in the article once the everything has been appropriately loosened to tension.

Let us know if this helps.

Any Hints, tips for tuning a 1977 Whitby 27 sloop 1/4 ton rig?

Nothing special that I can think of. Just follow the guidelines in the article. From what I can gather there are only a single set of lowers correct? Are the spreaders aft swept at all or just straight out? If it is single lowers and no sweep to the spreaders you’ll need to set the rake using the forestay adjustment to set the rake and the backstay to control the forestay tension. If you are interested in optimizing sail tuning, like in racing situations: higher wind sailing conditions will desire more tension on the shrouds, a bit more tension on the lower than the upper, but only slightly; and in lighter winds loosen them up a bit, a tad looser on the lower than the upper.

Hope that helps, and good luck.

How do I tune /2 in rigging. Neither of the loos gaug s are large enough?

Thanks for the question. Yes, I think the Loos gauges only go up to 3/8″ wire. First let me say that a tension gauge is not a must for proper tuning, more for tension recording and also not exceeding max tension which is typically hard to achieve without additional fulcrums or wrench extensions. Having said that, if you know that you need one simply search google for cable tensioning gauges. There are a few others like this one https://www.checkline.com/product/136-3E , pricing is not easily apparent and may be excessive for your needs.

My recommendation is that if you have a good local rigger have them do a static dock-side tune and perhaps sail-tune in the boat’s ideal conditions. Perhaps they can provide a tutorial on their process for you to be able to make rigging adjustments over time.

Hope that helps.

Hi. Nice article. I have a Mirage 27 (the Bob Perry design). It’s a masthead rig with single spreaders and the shrouds on each side come to the same chainplate. I have been tuning so that tension on the lower and uppers is the same and trying to set them so that (as you say) the leeward shrouds are just slightly slack. But how do I induce mast rake? I have a split backstay with a 6:1 purchase on the adjuster; should the mast have rake even with the adjuster off? or do I just haul on it? or should the tension on the inners and outers be different?

HI Michael,

You will need to lengthen the headstay and shorten the backstay. This can be done a few ways either with turnbuckle adjustment or actually shortening and lengthening cables, sometimes you can add or remove toggles also.

Hope that helps!

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I recently purchased a 1988 Catalina S&S 38 and experienced my first launch this season, including stepping the mast and tuning the rig. As we prepared, we found that the Cap Shroud and Intermediate Shroud were clamped together at the four spreader ends. The folks at the yard had never seen that, and I certainly didn’t know why it was there … possibly to keep the spreader ends and shrouds consistent? Anyway, as I am learning how to tune my rig, it seems to me that these clamps would prevent me from tuning the cap shroud and intermediate separately and correctly Thoughts? Should I remove them and re-tune the rig?

So it is a double spreader rig I take it? The upper shroud wire should run freely through the first spreader, or the closest one to the deck, and be clamped at the top spreader. The intermediate shroud wire should be clamped at the lower spreader.

Before stepping, if this was done correctly, both upper spreader and lower spreader should be clamped equal distance from the mast attachment point, when looking at the mast from port and starboard.

In other words, you should measure the distance from where the upper shroud attaches to the mast to the end of the upper spreader and it should be the same distance on the other side, port to starboard. Then the same goes for the intermediate shroud and the lower spreader. The upper shroud should run freely through the lower spreader although it is covered by the clamp, but not actually clamped at the lower spreader, j ust the top one.

If all 4 spreaders are clamped equally port to starboard. You should be good to tune from there. The spreaders should show a slight up angle, to be specific slightly more up at the upper spreader than at the lower, but all of them should be just ever so slightly pointing up. You even want to think about clamping them slightly higher than that before tensioning, as this will pull them down and into their preferred angle, just slightly up. Specific angles are really only determined on the spar builders drawing and vary for manufacturer to manufacturer. Generally it is pretty clear where they want to sit. With the shrouds loose if you find that angle that appears to be the right one, and push them up slightly from there then clamp. This will allow them to be pulled down slightly once tensioned.

Kind of a tricky thing to explain in writing but hopefully it helps.

Have further questions? Give us a call 443-847-1004, or email us [email protected]

I have a Catalina 275 fractional rig with single swept back spreaders and an adjustable backstay. My questions are: how much rake, tension on cap and lower shrouds and on chain plate should cap shroud be forward and lower aft. I am racing and want the best performance. Thanks for any help. Bill

If the two shrouds are on the same plate, right next to each other, and the pin holes are the same diameter, and the plate is configured in a fore and aft configuration, I would choose the aft hole for the lower shroud and the forward one for the upper shroud.

In terms of specific rake, you will need to look towards the maker of your sails and or the boat manufacturer. I discuss how to measure rake in the preceding comments.

“You can measure rake by hanging a small mushroom anchor from the main halyard, with the boat floating on its lines, if you wish”

For racing I would start off with a good static tune at the dock by following the points in the article. If you know it’s going to be light day, start off with light rig tension. Be sure to use either Velcro wrap style cotter pins or simply lash the upper and lower shroud turnbuckles together to secure them. This will give you access to removing the pins or lashing while sailing and adjusting the stays.

From there you will need to sail tune for that days specific conditions, your shrouds will tell you what needs to be tighter and looser. I have answered how to do this a few times already in the comments below, please take your time to peruse the comments section to see what sail tuning entails. Doing this will always ensure that the cable tensions are set up ideally for the conditions and the boat can be sailed at maximum potential.

“For racing, ideally once the static tune at the dock (the part we just talked about) is done, go out and sail tune. Do this by going hard on the wind and checking to see if the leeward shrouds are just starting to dance, this is ideal. If they are swaying about they are too loose for the current conditions. If the leeward shrouds are tight, they may be a touch to tight. Tension and loosen as needed; count what you did and to what shroud, then tack and do the same to the other side.

ALWAYS secure the turnbuckles when you are finished adjusting them.”

Just hit ‘Ctrl F’ and search the page for “sail tune” and “rake”

I am trying to tune a Hallberg Rassy HR36 masthead rig. The rig has two in-line spreaders. The cap shroud is 3/8 inch and terminates at the lower spreader. From the lower spreader, the cable transitions to a 5/16 inch cable passing over the upper spreader to the masthead. A second 9/32 inch cable runs from the lower spreader to the mast (just below the upper spreader). The Selden rigging suggests that the “upper shroud” be at 15 percent of the breaking strength of the cable. In this situation, is it 15 percent of the 3/8 inch lower portion? If so, how should the upper 5/16 inch and 9/32 inch cables be tensioned?

Thanks for your help.

Hi Bryant, good question. Once proper alignment and centering of the spar has happened (static tune), and you are perhaps a hair tighter than hand tight on all shrouds, you can begin to tension things to a percentage of breaking strength. Do this by using the cables at the deck and use their diameters to determine the tensioning amount.

The V1 (aka cap shroud) in your case is a 3/8″ cable which supports the two cables above ii, hence its large diameter. The 5/16 V2,D3 and the 9/32 D2 total 19/32. So if 15% of the 3/8 cable is achieved you will below that threshold for the cables aloft. Does that make any sense?

With that in mind there is a range of acceptable tension from light air to heavy air. 15% sounds like a good middle of the road tension. Generally you do not want to exceed 30%. Sail tuning in ideal conditions is generally the best way to determine the right tension, but 15% of breaking strength sounds like a good place to start.

Don’t forget your cotter pins and tape, especially aloft.

Hope that helps and thanks for the question.

T.R.C. Thanks you for the clarification regarding the V2,D3 and D2 load distribution. When I set the V1 tension to 15%, the tension on the V2,D3 was at 8 %. I then tensioned the forward shroud to 12 % and the aft shroud to 10 %. Then I tensioned the backstay to 14 %. After doing this, I measured the tension on the V1 to be 10 %. The only information I could find regarding tension on the D2 was that is did not have to be tensioned much. I tensioned it to 5%. The mast sights straight and I used a bossen seat on a halyard to measure to the lower part of the V1, which also indicated that the mast was straight. Did I overtension the fore and aft stays? Is the tension in the D2 too much or too little? Again, I appreciate your advice.

When you tighten the backstay it usually induces a bit of aft bend in the mast which will soften the upper shroud (V1) a bit. You can just take up on it again to get it back to 15% if you like. As I said there is a acceptable range for all of the stays, which you are well within. Everything else sounds like you did a pretty good job. Next up sail tune and see if there is excessive waggling on the leeward side, but in moderate breeze. The shrouds will begin to sway as the breeze builds, this could be a telltale to either reduce sail a bit or you can add some tension to the shrouds all the way around.

Should be all good as they say.

T.R.C., your advice has been invaluable. I took her out in 12-15 knots and was very happy with the sail luff and stiffness of the rig. Thanks for you help!😁⚓️

Hi , can you provide any tuning guides for a Swan 38 Tall mast single spreader rig with baby stay, I am keen to set the rig up for new North sails and race her competitively. The mast is an exact Nautor factory replacement in 1998. She shall not have furling sails.

Hi Peter and thanks for the comment.

Unfortunately we do not have a guide for that boat. I would ask the sailmaker however to see what info he or she might have. Alternatively you can always start with a good static tune and then sail tune the boat as I describe in some of the comments below. This is the best way. I may use a Swan 45 Tuning guide as the template and then just fill in my own numbers over time. This is ideal, but infidelity start with asking the sailmaker you are working with, he should have some good info.

This may seem like a silly question, but it has me perplexed. How long should my cotter pins be? Long enough to ‘jam’ against the surrounding body, to prevent rotation? Otherwise, I don’t see how they’ll prevent my stays from loosening.

The length should be the minimum amount to just be able to bend the legs. Too long and they get caught up on things, too short and you can’t adequately bend the legs to keep the pin in place. The head of the pin is a actually providing the security.

Does that help?

Great article to get me started, thanks! I just have a few questions…

I originally owned a Tanzer 7.5. Her mast was rigid and simple to tune with a LOOS and an eyeball. I however now own a Mirage 33 (1982) and things are a bit more complex (but not too much). When I bought her the mast was already stepped and the owners said they replaced the forestay (inside the furler) 1 season ago. I went about the boat tuning the rig as best I could but I started second guessing the rake. I found noticeable rake in the mast with virtually no backstay tension on. So I think my forestay stretched (being “new”) and I need to bring it forward.

How do I measure how much rake (at rest on the tensioner) is enough? With my rig as is I felt worried that if I pulled down on the backstay tensioner I might buckle my mast by bending it too far. It seems to me it’s ALOT of downward pressure on the column when you pull down on her especially if the mast was already raked or maybe in my case leaned too far back to start? She has a babystay too, I wasn’t sure how far to tension that other than to assist adding bend\rake but since I had too much already I just lightly tightened it and hoped for the best!

Thanks for the question. With the backstay tensioner completely off, you should be able to adjust the static/ base tension of the backstay with a turnbuckle (s). Loosen the Baby Stay so that it is completely loose, sloppy, to take it out of the equation. Then mark furling line spool direction and remove the line. Next, open the furler up to gain access to the turnbuckle inside, if present. Remove all cotter pins or locking nuts to free the turnbuckles on the headstay and the backstay. You should then loosen things so that the headstay and the backstay can be adjusted by hand. Close the headstay turnbuckle and open the backstay turnbuckle to reduce rake, and vice versa if wanting to add rake.

You can measure rake by hanging a small mushroom anchor from the main halyard, with the boat floating on its lines, if you wish. Then once you achieve the desired mast rake go ahead and tension the forestay and backstay a few turns equally with tools; not too tight, but a good base light air setting, or as loose as you can imagine the headstay ever needing to be. Lastly, tension the baby stay a bit until it just starts to tug on the mast, helping induce bend. From here the backstay tensioner will do the rest: wind it on and it will tension the headstay and induce mast bend via the baby stay. You may have to take the boat sailing and adjust things as you find out how it performs at various degrees of rake and bend.

I hope that’s not too wordy, but helps explain it all a bit. Feel free to email or call with further questions.

Regards, ~T.R.C.

Can you provide some specific information regarding rig for 1980 C&C 32. Looking to purchase new main and want to get the most from it for Wednesday nights. Boat currently does not have a pony stay, it has been removed. Can replace that track/car. What should initial bend look like, keel step is fixed so assume I need to some chock aft of mast at deck? Have rod rigging but no Loos gauge for same, should I acquire one? Love this site, very helpful RayK

Thanks for the compliment. This may be less technical than you might expect. I would start with the basic guidelines given in the article to ensure a good base, static tune setting. A Loos gauge is good but not needed. If you focus on getting the spar straight, side to side, with a slight aft bias and then the tension is set so that it feels fairly tight. I know that sounds vague, but keep this in mind: if you are anticipating heavier wind make things a bit tighter, and loosen things up if less windy. The order of tension, in regards to the which shroud (upper vs intermediate vs lower) is important; more so than the amount of tension. Make sure nothing is so loose it is just flapping about.

The headstay should have some good slack to it with the backstay adjuster totally off. Adjust the backstay and headstay turnbuckles, with them in the slack position until the masthead is favoring a slight aft lean or rake, but only slight. From there, tension the backstay adjuster very tight and see what the headstay tension feels like, should be very tight.

PLEASE NOTE: if the backstay adjustment is totally bottomed out at this point, the backstay needs to be shortened a bit. Just pay attention to how this affects the rake. …

This part is where the pony stay or the baby stay will play a critical part, for mast bend. You may even find the pony stay to be good for mast pumping in light air and waves. Making this baby stay removable is a good idea, as well as, we’ve found that Dynema rope is the best choice here.

So… a centered mast head, side to side. A straight, in column mast from the top on down. A slight aft rake to start with…and as you begin to wind on the backstay and the baby stay you will add some rake but also a good bit more bend.

Take this set up for a few test sails and see how things act, in different conditions. After that you can make some adjustments here and there as needed: weather helm, shroud tension, mast rake, pre bend, etc…Moving chocks and using a Loos gauge.

ADDT’L TIP: Chocks and mast step position affect bend and rake properties. Want more rake? Chock mast aft in collar and move step forward. Want more bend? Chock mast forward in collar and move mast aft. As all things, there is more to it than that, but that’s the gist of the whole chocks and mast step thing…

“Sail Tuning” is a blog we are in the works of, but the punchline is that if hard on the breeze, and the leeward shrouds are excessively loose, and you are sure you aren’t over canvased…then go ahead and take turns on the leeward side until they just stop waggling, count what you’ve done, tack and mirror the turns on the other side.

Once the boat is set up for that specific condition, and you return to the dock, you should take your loose gauge and record these settings…creating a tension gauge setting for various conditions.

Hi, Thanks for your information. I have a Dehler 34. 1986… How much mast prebend and rake is recommended? The boat is new to me in March. Raced ok but I want to get a new main and want it to fit a well tuned mast. What do you think of a 2 degree rake and 4″ prebend at the speaders? Also, I have a Harken furler, How do you measure the forestay tension? Thanks, Duke

The answer, this boat is pretty sporty so it should show some rake. The spreaders are swept slightly aft so this will produce some natural bend just to tension the headstay.

Head-stays are always tough to measure with any sort of gauge, there are some class specific tricks for using a gauge in funky ways in order to get data, but they aren’t really reliable in my opinion. If you live in a typically windy area, go for bit more shroud tension, headstay tension and mast bend, and see how the boat feels. This will take some trial and error. If the forestay feels too stiff, slot too tight, loosen the uppers a bit, thus reducing bend and slackening the headstay.

Once the boat is sailing well in the ideal conditions, record that bend and those tensions. This is where I would leave things set, record it, and then just adjust shroud tension to affect bend and headstay in order to compliment different wind strengths and sea states. It takes quite a bit of back and forth, and documentation to get it right. One designers have already worked all of this out and then they share it for others…..very helpful. The rest of us will have to be the trailblazers for this type of information for other boat owners with the same (similar) boats to benefit.

Hope that helps, thanks for the kind words, and good luck. Once you figure things out post a link here for others with the same boat…..would be helpful.

Hello, Thanks for all of this great info. I just purchased a 37′ boat with a 3/4 fractional rig and a tapered mast. I was wondering if there were any special considerations when tuning the fractional rig? Currently the stays and shrouds are a little loose and can be wiggled (borderline flopping) by hand although the mast stands and is visually centered. (We are in SW Florida and the boat went through a direct hit by hurricane Irma like this and still stands tall!) Also is it advisable to increase shroud tension in small increments first on one side and then do the same on the opposing side? Thanks so much for any info

Hi Nathan. There are some thoughts, so fractional masts are usually fitted with aft swept shrouds and spreaders. If so, this means that the uppers also tension the headstay and create mast bend. The lowers then also act to reduce mast bend, so the tighter you make them you are actually reducing mast curve, thus powering the mainsail up. So be conscious of these two thoughts when tensioning the shrouds. The rest is fundamentally the same as the guide suggests. Loose or wiggling shrouds (excluding the scenario where we are talking about the leeward shrouds under sail), should be tightened. Doing things in increments is definitely a good idea.

Hope that helps. Thanks for the questions.

Thanks!! Now that you say that about the swept spreaders helping create mast bend it makes perfect sense. I had an ‘oh duh’ moment. I’ll probably err on the side of looser lower shrouds knowing if we need more power we can always tighten them up. Thank you again this helped immensely!

I want to buy a tension gage. Most familiar with Loos. But do I need Pt 1 or 2? (Pretty sure I don’t need 3 or Pro.) I have two rigs to tune: a 1972 Morgan 27 and a Catalina 22, I think 73 or thereabouts. The Morgan 27 is mine, fresh water for life, and 99.9% most likely factory wire. The Catalina 22 is a borrower in the Gulf, but pretty sure the owner has never tuned it. My problem is I can’t find the gage of wire for either standing rigging anywhere! Any help?

I think this one will do… https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-70220623433298_2270_120385950 . The Morgan is likely 3/16″ wire and the Catalina is likely 5/32″, that’s an educated guess. Hope that helps.

I just purchased a 1980 C&C 40. I was told that I need to replace the rod rigging as it is “too old”. The mast is down and the rod rigging seems ok but I have not done any penetration testing. Does rod rigging need to be replaced due to age? Thanks Rigging Co.

Not replaced, but re-headed. This can mean that some stays need to be replaced as a whole, but not typically not the whole set. There are instances where you’ve almost replaced all of it anyways, so full replacement just makes sense. Other than those scenarios, full replacement is due after a certain mileage with rod…60,000 NM. Please keep in mind these standards are very general recommendations. It sounds like in your case, you should send in the rod, tangs, and chainplates for service and inspection. once we receive everything we will make a quote for the recommended services and/or replacement.

Hope that helps and give us an email for more info.

I have had a problem with securing the spreaders to the shrouds, resulting in the spreaders dropping. I am using stainless wire to seize them but still having a problem. Any tips on how to do this properly?

Seizing the wire onto spreaders with hinged spreaders is a bit of a trick of the trade that requires some practice. We use the X’s and O’s method. The end result should be something that looks like this… https://theriggingcompany.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/2012-06-07_14-26-09_899.jpg?w=900 . A trick to make the wire bite into the spreader end a bit more is to wedge a small piece of leather between the spreader and the wire before seizing. Also parceling and serving the wire where it intersects the spreader will help create more bite too. Lastly, and I don’t like this method but you can install a bull dog cable clamp beneath the spreader, nuts facing in, to keep it from dropping when slack.

I hope that helps a little. Thanks for commenting.

I am struggling to get enough rake into my mast. 33 foot Charger 33 keel stepped. Have loosened forestay and moved mast foot forward by about 10 mm. Should the chocks in the collar be adjusted? Runners and 2 spreaders, and check spreader. Spreaders do not have much aft angle. Move mast step more forward? Outers are tight with inners looser. Thoughts?

Hey Bernard,

Yeah, it sounds like chocks are the last thing. Maybe remove the chocks with the rigging slack and see if you can get the mast to sit where you like it with just hand tension. Then chock it where it wants to sit. It sounds like you are on the right track everywhere else, perhaps add a toggle into the headstay and shorten the backstay is next. Good luck and I hope that helps somewhat.

Hi, We have a Lagoon Catamaran with fractional rig, upper and lower shrouds, fore stay and upper and lower diamonds. No back stay. The mast has a degree of pre-bend. I do not plan to drop the mast.

I may have to do some work on the port side upper diamond. Is it as easy as just undoing the turnbuckle? Or do I need to loosen the starboard one at the same time. If it needs replacement should I also replace the starboard one even if in good condition?

As a further question, what happens if a diamond breaks, does it result in mast failure?

You would need to loosen the other counterpart to that stay for sure. It is just good practice, will keep the mast straight, and also make your life easier for removal install. Now, do you replace both? I don’t know. How old is the standing rigging? Why are you replacing the one? If it is not all due for replacement and you are just replacing due to damage, just do the one, but loosen both sides to do this.

Hope that helps and thanks for the visit.

Hello! I recently purchased a keel-stepped 1982 Goman Express 30 which came with an Alado Furler. I have been sailing it since May of this year. My question is this: Despite relocating mast wedges at the cabin roof to bias the lower mast aft about 2″, I still have a pronounced backward bend (10 degrees or so) just above the highest spreader. When sailing on jib alone, most wave action causes the mast to pump right at the bend point. I have a split backstay that is as un-tensioned as possible and the forestay only has another inch of adjustment left. There is no baby stay.

How can I get the bend out of the mast? How concerned should I be that the mast might break at that point?

Thanks in advance for your reply!

Eric Hassam – Delta Flyer

Thanks for taking the time to comment on our site. It sounds like you are on the right track. So one other adjustment that you have is the mast step position. This greatly affects mast bend on keel stepped masts. For a stronger bend and less rake, move the mast butt aft. For more rake and less bend (probably what you need to try), move the mast step forward a bit. If neither of these help, you may be off to have your headstay shortened and this means it is too long. This is likely not the case, but it is a possibility.

Keep in mind….A mast should have a slight aft rake bias along with a small amount of mast bend. This is quite normal. You can send us a picture if you’d like a second opinion on if it is over-bent. Having said all of that, even if you remove all of the mast bend, the mast may still pump. This is a design flaw in many spar designs that lots of end users have experienced. This can be remedied by redesigning the stay lay out. Is there a place for a staysail stay and/ or runner backstays? If so add them. Is there a place for a baby stay? If not, that may be a consideration.

Thanks again and I hope that helps.

Hi, I have a 48 foot yawl with a 7/8 fractional rig, is the tuning procedure the same as a masthead rig? I seem to have trouble getting aft rake and proper headstay tension. Also, is there a particular tension number the upper shrouds should have? many thanks in advance

Hi Bill, thanks for taking the time. 7/8 is very close and I would treat it like a masthead rig, especially if the none of the spreaders are aft swept. Tesnsion the headstay using the backstay(s). This should pull the top of the mast aft. If there are any other forward stays, i.e. stay sail stay, forward lowers, or anything else that could be holding the mast forward, go ahead and loosen those completely. You then may need to tighten the Tri-attic (the stay that connects the top of the mizzen and top of the main) if present. OR if the mizzen needs more rake too, then lossen all forward stays and pull it back using the available aft stays for this as well.

Hope this helps and please email us and send some pictures if you need more help.

I have a 1972 Morgan 27, which has both forward and after lower shrouds. I wish to remove the forward lowers so I can trim a 110% jib inside the stays. I see a lot of boats without forward lowers and think this will work OK, but wonder if I should increase the size of the aft lowers and beef up the chain plates. Any suggestions?

THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT. I AM GOING TO REMOVE THEM ANYWAY AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS. “HOLD MY BEER, WATCH THIS….” FAMOUS LAST WORDS.

Lol! Good luck. Call us if you need assistance.

I have rod rigging on my Beneteau 32s5

Any other guidance on tuning them vs wire rigging

Hi and thanks for commenting.

Just follow the guidelines in the write up. The over all goal is that the mast needs to be straight and in-column when looking at it from side to side.

Fore and aft, the mast should show a very slight lean aft. Depending on whether or not the spreaders are in-line or aft swept; you should also see some slight bend if there is any aft sweep to the spreaders just from the tension of the uppers.

A Rod stay tends to run a bit tighter than wire, so keep that in mind.

For racing, ideally once the static tune at the dock (the part we just talked about) is done, go out and sail tune. Do this by going hard on the wind and checking to see if the leeward shrouds are just starting to dance, this is ideal. If they are swaying about they are too loose for the current conditions. If the leeward shrouds are tight, they may be a touch to tight. Tension and loosen as needed; count what you did and to what shroud, then tack and do the same to the other side.

ALWAYS secure the turnbuckles when you are finished adjusting them.

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Wow, I would hate to be charged by her for three trips up the rig and forget the screw driver the rubber plugs that are sacraficial and replaced everytime removed just to clean the stainless 1×19 rigging.

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Sailboat Rigging: A Guide to Achieve Smooth Sailing Bliss

Understanding sailboat rigging.

Sailboat rigging is the process of setting up the sails, ropes, and associated components of a sailboat to enable it to harness the power of the wind and navigate the waters efficiently. It is a crucial aspect of sailing that directly impacts the performance, safety, and overall experience on the water.

Proper sailboat rigging involves a combination of knowledge, skill, and attention to detail. Each component plays a specific role and must be correctly installed, adjusted, and maintained to ensure optimal performance. Understanding the fundamentals of sailboat rigging is essential for both seasoned sailors and beginners alike.

The Importance of Proper Sailboat Rigging

Proper sailboat rigging is essential for several reasons. Firstly, it directly affects the performance of your sailboat. Well-rigged sails and ropes allow you to harness the wind effectively, resulting in better speed, maneuverability, and control. On the other hand, poorly rigged sails can lead to reduced performance and frustrating sailing experiences.

Secondly, sailboat rigging is crucial for safety. A well-rigged sailboat ensures that the mast, rigging components, and sails are secure and can withstand the forces of wind and waves. It minimizes the risk of equipment failure, such as broken masts or snapped rigging, which can lead to accidents or stranded situations on the water.

Lastly, proper sailboat rigging enhances the overall enjoyment of sailing. When your rigging is set up correctly, you can focus on the beauty of the sea, the thrill of the wind, and the joy of gliding through the water. It allows you to fully immerse yourself in the experience and achieve a state of sailing bliss.

Types of Sailboat Rigging Systems

Sailboat rigging systems can vary depending on the type of sailboat and its intended use. The two main types of rigging systems are the masthead rig and the fractional rig.

The masthead rig is a traditional rigging configuration where the mast extends to the top of the sailboat, and the forestay is attached near the masthead. This rigging system is commonly found on cruising sailboats and provides excellent downwind performance and stability.

On the other hand, the fractional rig is a more modern design where the forestay is attached at a point below the masthead, typically around two-thirds of the way up the mast. This configuration is often used in racing sailboats as it allows for better upwind performance and increased maneuverability.

Understanding the different rigging systems is essential as it influences the setup and tuning of the sailboat rigging. Each system requires specific adjustments and considerations to achieve optimal performance.

Essential Components of Sailboat Rigging

Sailboat rigging consists of several essential components that work together to support the mast, control the shape of the sails, and enable efficient sail handling. These components include the mast, shrouds, stays, and halyards.

The mast is the vertical structure that supports the sails and rigging. It is typically made of aluminum or carbon fiber and must be strong, lightweight, and properly secured to the sailboat. The mast is connected to the hull through a step at the base, which distributes the loads from the rigging throughout the boat.

Shrouds and stays are the primary supporting elements that hold the mast in place and provide lateral and fore-aft stability. Shrouds are attached to the mast at various points and extend out to the sides of the sailboat, while stays run from the mast to the bow or stern of the boat. These components are typically made of stainless steel wire or synthetic fibers and must be tensioned correctly to maintain the integrity of the rig.

Halyards are ropes or wires used to raise and lower the sails. They run from the masthead to the sail and allow for the adjustment of sail shape and size. Proper halyard tension is crucial for controlling the shape of the sails and optimizing their performance in different wind conditions.

Each of these components plays a vital role in sailboat rigging, and understanding their functions and proper installation is key to achieving smooth sailing.

Inspecting and Maintaining Sailboat Rigging

Regular inspection and maintenance of sailboat rigging are essential to ensure its longevity, reliability, and safety. Before setting sail, it is crucial to conduct a thorough visual inspection of all rigging components.

Start by checking the mast for any signs of damage, such as cracks, corrosion, or loose fittings. Inspect the shrouds and stays for any broken strands, kinks, or signs of wear. Pay close attention to the connections between the rigging components and the mast, ensuring they are secure and free from any potential issues.

Next, inspect the halyards for fraying, excessive wear, or damage. Check the blocks, cleats, and winches associated with the halyards to ensure they are functioning properly and are appropriately lubricated.

Additionally, check the tension of the rigging by gently pushing on the shrouds and stays. They should have a slight amount of tension, but not be overly loose or overly tight. If any adjustments are needed, refer to the sailboat’s rigging guide or consult with a professional rigger.

Regular maintenance tasks for sailboat rigging include cleaning, lubricating, and replacing worn-out components. Cleaning the rigging with fresh water and mild soap helps remove salt and dirt buildup, preventing corrosion and extending the lifespan of the rigging. Lubricating moving parts, such as blocks and turnbuckles, with appropriate marine-grade lubricants helps ensure smooth operation and prevents rust.

It is important to note that if any significant damage or wear is detected during inspection, it is best to consult with a professional rigger for further assessment and repair.

Common Sailboat Rigging Problems and How to Troubleshoot Them

Despite careful inspection and maintenance, sailboat rigging problems can still occur. Understanding common issues and their troubleshooting techniques is essential for every sailor.

One common problem is rigging stretch, which can lead to reduced performance and compromised safety. Rigging stretch occurs when the shrouds and stays elongate over time, causing the mast to lose its proper shape and tension. To address this issue, adjust the rigging tension using the turnbuckles or tensioning devices provided. Refer to the sailboat’s rigging guide for specific instructions on proper tensioning.

Another common problem is rigging fatigue, especially in older sailboats or those exposed to harsh conditions. Rigging fatigue is characterized by broken strands, kinks, or signs of wear. If fatigue is detected, it is crucial to replace the affected rigging components promptly to avoid potential equipment failure. Consult with a professional rigger to ensure proper replacement and rigging setup.

Improper sail trim is another issue that can affect the performance of your sailboat. When the sails are not trimmed correctly, they can become overpowered or lose their shape, resulting in reduced speed and control. Experiment with different sail trim settings, such as halyard tension, sheet tension, and traveler position, to achieve the optimal sail shape for different wind conditions. Practice and experience will help you develop a keen eye for proper sail trim.

Upgrading and Optimizing Sailboat Rigging

Upgrading and optimizing your sailboat rigging can significantly improve performance, safety, and overall sailing experience. There are several areas where upgrades can be considered, depending on your sailboat’s design and intended use.

One common upgrade is replacing wire rigging with synthetic rigging, such as Dyneema or Spectra. Synthetic rigging offers several advantages, including reduced weight, increased strength, and lower maintenance requirements. However, it is crucial to consult with a professional rigger to ensure proper installation and tuning of synthetic rigging.

Another upgrade option is replacing older blocks and pulleys with modern, low-friction alternatives. High-quality blocks with ball bearings or roller bearings can significantly reduce friction and make sail handling smoother and more efficient. Upgrading winches and cleats to larger or more powerful models can also enhance control and ease of use.

Additionally, optimizing your sailboat rigging for specific sailing conditions can improve performance. This may involve adjusting the rig tension, changing the position of the mast rake, or experimenting with different sail combinations. Consulting with experienced sailors or professional riggers can provide valuable insights and recommendations for optimizing your rigging setup.

Hiring a Professional Rigger for Sailboat Rigging

While basic sailboat rigging tasks can be performed by experienced sailors, complex rigging projects or major upgrades are best left to professional riggers. Hiring a professional rigger ensures that the rigging is installed, adjusted, and maintained correctly, minimizing the risk of equipment failure and maximizing the performance of your sailboat.

Professional riggers have the knowledge, expertise, and specialized tools to handle various rigging projects, from simple replacements to complete rig overhauls. They can assess the condition of your current rigging, recommend necessary upgrades or repairs, and provide valuable advice on rig tuning and optimization.

When hiring a professional rigger, it is essential to do thorough research and choose a reputable and experienced individual or company. Seek recommendations from fellow sailors, check online reviews, and inquire about their certifications and qualifications. A reliable professional rigger will work closely with you to understand your sailboat’s specific requirements and ensure that the rigging is tailored to your needs.

Safety Considerations for Sailboat Rigging

Safety should always be a top priority when it comes to sailboat rigging. Here are some important safety considerations to keep in mind:

• Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment, such as a life jacket and harness, when working on the sailboat rigging, especially at heights or in challenging conditions.
• Use proper lifting techniques and equipment when handling heavy rigging components to prevent injuries.
• Be mindful of your surroundings and the potential hazards associated with sailboat rigging, such as moving parts, sharp edges, or overhead obstructions.
• Regularly inspect and maintain safety equipment, such as lifelines and jacklines, to ensure they are in good condition and properly secured.
• Follow manufacturer guidelines and recommended practices for rigging installation, adjustment, and maintenance.
• Stay updated on current safety standards and regulations related to sailboat rigging.

By prioritizing safety and adhering to these considerations, you can enjoy smooth sailing adventures with peace of mind.

Conclusion: Enjoying Smooth Sailing with Well-Maintained Rigging

Mastering the art of sailboat rigging opens up a world of endless possibilities and pure sailing bliss. By understanding the different types of rigging systems, essential components, and proper maintenance techniques, you can achieve optimal performance, safety, and enjoyment on the water.

Regular inspection, maintenance, and troubleshooting of sailboat rigging are essential to ensure its longevity and reliability. Upgrading and optimizing your rigging can further enhance your sailing experience and unlock new levels of performance.

While basic rigging tasks can be performed by sailors, complex projects or major upgrades are best left to professional riggers. Hiring a reputable and experienced rigger ensures that your rigging is expertly installed, adjusted, and maintained.

Remember to prioritize safety at all times and follow recommended practices to minimize risks associated with sailboat rigging.

So, set sail, embrace the wind, and experience the bliss of smooth sailing with well-maintained sailboat rigging. May your adventures on the water be filled with joy, excitement, and the sheer beauty of the sea.

• Mastering the Mast: A Comprehensive Dive into the World of Sailboat Masts and Their Importance

A mast is not just a tall structure on a sailboat; it's the backbone of the vessel, holding sails that catch the wind, driving the boat forward. Beyond function, it's a symbol of adventure, romance, and humanity's age-old relationship with the sea.

The Rich Tapestry of Sailboat Mast History

From the simple rafts of ancient civilizations to the majestic ships of the Renaissance and the agile sailboats of today, masts have undergone significant evolution.

• The Humble Beginnings : Early masts were basic structures, made from whatever wood was available. These rudimentary poles were designed to support basic sails that propelled the boat forward.
• The Age of Exploration : As ships grew in size and began journeying across oceans, the demands on masts increased. They needed to be taller, stronger, and able to support multiple sails.
• Modern Innovations : Today's masts are feats of engineering, designed for efficiency, speed, and durability.

A Deep Dive into Types of Boat Masts

There's no 'one size fits all' in the world of masts. Each type is designed with a specific purpose in mind.

• Keel Stepped Mast : This is the traditional choice, where the mast runs through the deck and extends into the keel. While providing excellent stability, its integration with the boat's structure makes replacements and repairs a task.
• Deck Stepped Mast : Gaining popularity in modern sailboats, these masts sit atop the deck. They might be perceived as less stable, but advancements in boat design have largely addressed these concerns.

Materials and Their Impact

The choice of material can profoundly affect the mast's weight, durability, and overall performance.

• Aluminum : Lightweight and resistant to rust, aluminum masts have become the industry standard for most recreational sailboats.
• Carbon Fiber : These masts are the sports cars of the sailing world. Lightweight and incredibly strong, they're often seen on racing boats and high-performance vessels.
• Wood : Wooden masts carry the romance of traditional sailing. They're heavier and require more maintenance but offer unparalleled aesthetics and a classic feel.

Anatomy of a Sail Mast

Understanding the various components can greatly improve your sailing experience.

• Masthead : Sitting atop the mast, it's a hub for various instruments like wind indicators and lights.
• Spreaders : These are essential for maintaining the mast's stability and optimizing the angle of the sails.
• Mast Steps and Their Critical Role : Climbing a mast, whether for repairs, adjustments, or simply the thrill, is made possible by these "rungs." Their design and placement are paramount for safety.

Deck vs. Yacht Masts

A common misconception is that all masts are the same. However, the requirements of a small deck boat versus a luxury yacht differ drastically.

• Yacht Masts : Designed for grandeur, these masts are equipped to handle multiple heavy sails, sophisticated rigging systems, and the weight and balance demands of a large vessel.
• Sailboat Masts : Engineered for agility, they prioritize speed, wind optimization, and quick adjustments.

Maintenance, Repairs, and the Importance of Both

Seawater, winds, and regular wear and tear can take their toll on your mast.

• Routine Maintenance : Regular checks for signs of corrosion, wear, or structural issues can prolong your mast's life. Using protective coatings and ensuring moving parts are well-lubricated is crucial.
• Common Repairs : Over time, parts like spreaders, stays, or even the mast steps might need repair or replacement. Regular inspections can spot potential problems before they escalate.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

Check out our latest sailing content:

Costing: The Investment Behind the Mast

While the thrill of sailing might be priceless, maintaining the mast comes with its costs.

• Regular Upkeep : This is an ongoing expense, but think of it as insurance against larger, more costly repairs down the line.
• Repairs : Depending on severity and frequency, repair costs can stack up. It's always advisable to address issues promptly to avoid more significant expenses later.
• Complete Replacement : Whether due to extensive damage or just seeking an upgrade, replacing the mast is a significant investment. Consider factors like material, type, and labor when budgeting.

Upgrading Your Mast: Why and How

There comes a time when every sailor contemplates upgrading their mast. It might be for performance, compatibility with new sail types, or the allure of modern materials and technology.

• Performance Boosts : New masts can offer better aerodynamics, weight distribution, and responsiveness.
• Material Upgrades : Shifting from an old wooden mast to a modern aluminum or carbon fiber one can drastically change your sailing experience.
• Compatibility : Modern sails, especially those designed for racing or specific weather conditions, might necessitate a mast upgrade.

The Impact of Weather on Masts

Weather conditions significantly influence the longevity and performance of your mast. From strong winds to salty sea sprays, each element poses unique challenges. Regularly washing the mast, especially after sailing in saltwater, can help prevent the onset of corrosion and wear.

Customization and Personal Touches

Every sailor has a unique touch, and this extends to the mast. Whether it's intricate carvings on wooden masts, personalized masthead designs, or innovative rigging solutions, customization allows sailors to make their vessel truly their own.

The Role of Sails in Mast Design

It's not just about the mast; the type and size of sails greatly influence mast design. From the full-bellied spinnakers to the slender jibs, each sail requires specific support, tension, and angle, dictating the rigging and structure of the mast.

Safety First: The Role of Masts in Overboard Incidents

A mast isn't just for sailing; it plays a crucial role in safety. In overboard situations, the mast, especially when fitted with steps, can be a lifeline, allowing sailors to climb back onto their boat. Its visibility also aids in search and rescue operations.

The Rise of Eco-Friendly Masts

As the world grows more eco-conscious, the sailing community isn't far behind. New materials, designed to be environmentally friendly, are making their way into mast production. They aim to provide the strength and durability of traditional materials while reducing the environmental footprint.

The Intricate World of Rigging

The mast serves as the anchor for a complex system of ropes, pulleys, and cables – the rigging. This network, when fine-tuned, allows sailors to adjust sails for optimal wind capture, maneuverability, and speed. Mastery over rigging can elevate a sailor's experience and prowess significantly.

Historical Significance: Masts in Naval Warfare

In historical naval battles, the mast played a pivotal role. Damaging or destroying an enemy's mast was a strategic move, crippling their mobility and rendering them vulnerable. The evolution of masts in naval ships offers a fascinating glimpse into maritime warfare tactics of yesteryears.

The Science Behind Mast Vibrations

Ever noticed your mast humming or vibrating in strong winds? This phenomenon, known as aeolian vibration, arises from the interaction between wind and the mast's 

structure. While it can be a mesmerizing sound, unchecked vibrations over time can lead to wear and potential damage.

Future Trends: What Lies Ahead for Sailboat Masts

With technological advancements, the future of masts is bright. Concepts like retractable masts, integrated solar panels, and smart sensors for real-time health monitoring of the mast are on the horizon. These innovations promise to redefine sailing in the years to come.

Paying Homage: Celebrating the Mast

Across cultures and ages, masts have been celebrated, revered, and even worshipped. From the Polynesians who viewed them as spiritual totems, to modern sailors tattooing mast symbols as badges of honor, the mast, in its silent grandeur, continues to inspire awe and respect.

Conclusion: The Mast’s Place in Sailing

In the grand scheme of sailing, the mast holds a place of reverence. It's not just a structural necessity; it's a testament to human ingenuity, our quest for exploration, and the sheer love of the sea.

How often should I inspect my mast?

At least twice a year, preferably before and after sailing season.

Can I handle repairs myself?

Minor repairs, yes. But for major issues, it's best to consult a professional.

Is there an average lifespan for a mast?

With proper care, masts can last decades. Material and maintenance quality play a huge role.

How do I know if it's time to replace my mast?

Constant repairs, visible wear, and decreased performance are indicators.

What's the most durable mast material?

Carbon fiber is incredibly strong and durable, but aluminum also offers excellent longevity.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite  sailing destinations.

Mast Queries Answered

I am ready to help you with booking a boat for your dream vacation. contact me..

Denisa Nguyenová

Standing Rigging (or ‘Name That Stay’)

Published by rigworks on november 19, 2019.

Question: When your riggers talk about standing rigging, they often use terms I don’t recognize. Can you break it down for me?

From the Rigger: Let’s play ‘Name that Stay’…

Forestay (1 or HS) – The forestay, or headstay, connects the mast to the front (bow) of the boat and keeps your mast from falling aft.

• Your forestay can be full length (masthead to deck) or fractional (1/8 to 1/4 from the top of the mast to the deck).
• Inner forestays, including staysail stays, solent stays and baby stays, connect to the mast below the main forestay and to the deck aft of the main forestay. Inner forestays allow you to hoist small inner headsails and/or provide additional stability to your rig.

Backstay (2 or BS) – The backstay runs from the mast to the back of the boat (transom) and is often adjustable to control forestay tension and the shape of the sails.

• A backstay can be either continuous (direct from mast to transom) or it may split in the lower section (7) with “legs” that ‘V’ out to the edges of the transom.
• Backstays often have hydraulic or manual tensioners built into them to increase forestay tension and bend the mast, which flattens your mainsail.
• Running backstays can be removable, adjustable, and provide additional support and tuning usually on fractional rigs. They run to the outer edges of the transom and are adjusted with each tack. The windward running back is in tension and the leeward is eased so as not to interfere with the boom and sails.
• Checkstays, useful on fractional rigs with bendy masts, are attached well below the backstay and provide aft tension to the mid panels of the mast to reduce mast bend and provide stabilization to reduce the mast from pumping.

Shrouds – Shrouds support the mast from side to side. Shrouds are either continuous or discontinuous .

Continuous rigging, common in production sailboats, means that each shroud (except the lowers) is a continuous piece of material that connects to the mast at some point, passes through the spreaders without terminating, and continues to the deck. There may be a number of continuous shrouds on your boat ( see Figure 1 ).

• Cap shrouds (3) , sometimes called uppers, extend from masthead to the chainplates at the deck.
• Intermediate shrouds (4) extend from mid-mast panel to deck.
• Lower shrouds extend from below the spreader-base to the chainplates. Fore- (5) and Aft-Lowers (6) connect to the deck either forward or aft of the cap shroud.

Discontinuous rigging, common on high performance sailboats, is a series of shorter lengths that terminate in tip cups at each spreader. The diameter of the wire/rod can be reduced in the upper sections where loads are lighter, reducing overall weight. These independent sections are referred to as V# and D# ( see Figure 2 ). For example, V1 is the lowest vertical shroud that extends from the deck to the outer tip of the first spreader. D1 is the lowest diagonal shroud that extends from the deck to the mast at the base of the first spreader. The highest section that extends from the upper spreader to the mast head may be labeled either V# or D#.

A sailboat’s standing rigging is generally built from wire rope, rod, or occasionally a super-strong synthetic fibered rope such as Dyneema ® , carbon fiber, kevlar or PBO.

• 1×19 316 grade stainless steel Wire Rope (1 group of 19 wires, very stiff with low stretch) is standard on most sailboats. Wire rope is sized/priced by its diameter which varies from boat to boat, 3/16” through 1/2″ being the most common range.
• 1×19 Compact Strand or Dyform wire, a more expensive alternative, is used to increase strength, reduce stretch, and minimize diameter on high performance boats such as catamarans. It is also the best alternative when replacing rod with wire.
• Rod rigging offers lower stretch, longer life expectancy, and higher breaking strength than wire. Unlike wire rope, rod is defined by its breaking strength, usually ranging from -10 to -40 (approx. 10k to 40k breaking strength), rather than diameter. So, for example, we refer to 7/16” wire (diameter) vs. -10 Rod (breaking strength).
• Composite Rigging is a popular option for racing boats. It offers comparable breaking strengths to wire and rod with a significant reduction in weight and often lower stretch.

Are your eyes crossing yet? This is probably enough for now, but stay tuned for our next ‘Ask the Rigger’. We will continue this discussion with some of the fittings/connections/hardware associated with your standing rigging.

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The Running Rigging On A Sailboat Explained

The running rigging on a sailboat consists of all the lines used to hoist, lower, and control the sails and sailing equipment. These lines usually have different colors and patterns to easily identify their function and location on the vessel.

Looking at the spaghetti of lines with different colors and patterns might get your head spinning. But don’t worry, it is actually pretty simple. Each line on a sailboat has a function, and you’ll often find labels describing them in the cockpit and on the mast.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the functions of every component of the running rigging. We’ll also look at the hardware we use to operate it and get up to speed on some of the terminology.

The difference between standing rigging and running rigging

Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly:

The  rig  or  rigging  on a sailboat is a common term for two parts, the  standing , and the  running  rigging.

• The  standing rigging  consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing. Check out my guide on standing rigging here!
• The  running rigging  consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate and control the sails on a sailboat which we will explore in this guide.

The components of the running rigging

Knowing the running rigging is an essential part of sailing, whether you are sailing a cruising boat or crewing on a large yacht. Different types of sailing vessels have different amounts of running rigging.

For example, a sloop rig has fewer lines than a ketch, which has multiple masts and requires a separate halyard, outhaul, and sheet for its mizzen sail. Similarly, a cutter rig needs another halyard and extra sheets for its additional headsail.

You can dive deeper and read more about Sloop rigs, Ketch Rigs, Cutter rigs, and many others here .

Take a look at this sailboat rigging diagram:

Lines are a type of rope with a smooth surface that works well on winches found on sailboats. They come in various styles and sizes and have different stretch capabilities.

Dyneema and other synthetic fibers have ultra-high tensile strength and low stretch. These high-performance lines last a long time, and I highly recommend them as a cruiser using them for my halyards.

A halyard is a line used to raise and lower the sail. It runs from the head of the sail to the masthead through a  block and  continues down to the deck. Running the halyard back to the cockpit is common, but many prefer to leave it on the mast.

Fun fact:  Old traditional sailboats sometimes used a stainless steel wire attached to the head of the sail instead of a line!

Jib, Genoa, and Staysail Halyards

The halyard for the headsail is run through a block in front of the masthead. If your boat has a staysail, it needs a separate halyard. These lines are primarily untouched on vessels with a furling system except when you pack the sail away or back up. Commonly referred to as the jib halyard.

Spinnaker Halyard

A spinnaker halyard is basically the same as the main halyard but used to hoist and lower the spinnaker, gennaker, or parasailor. 

The spinnaker halyard is also excellent for climbing up the front of the mast, hoisting the dinghy on deck, lifting the outboard, and many other things.

A sheet is a line you use to  control and trim a sail to the angle of the wind . The  mainsheet  controls the angle of the mainsail and is attached between the boom and the  mainsheet   traveler . The two headsail sheets are connected to the sail’s clew (lower aft corner) and run back to each side of the cockpit.

These are control lines used to adjust the angle and tension of the sail. It is also the line used to unfurl a headsail on a furling system. Depending on what sail you are referring to, this can be the  Genoa sheet , the  Jib sheet , the  Gennaker sheet , etc.

The outhaul is a line attached to the clew of the mainsail and used to adjust the foot tension. It works runs from the mainsail clew to the end of the boom and back to the mast. In many cases, back to the cockpit. On a boat with  in-mast furling , this is the line you use to pull the sail out of the mast.

Topping lift

The topping lift is a line attached to the boom’s end and runs through the masthead and down to the deck or cockpit. It lifts and holds the boom and functions well as a spare main halyard. Some types of sailboat rigging don’t use a topping lift for their boom but a boom vang instead. Others have both!

Topping lifts can also be used to lift other spars.

A downhaul is a line used to lower with and typically used to haul the mainsail down when reefing and lowering the spinnaker and whisker poles. The downhaul can also control the tack of an asymmetrical spinnaker, gennaker, or parasailor.

Tweaker and Barber Haul

A tweaker is a line, often elastic, attached to the sheet of a headsail and used to fine-tune the tension on the sheet.

Barber haul

A barber haul is a line attached to a headsail’s sheet to adjust the sheeting angle to the wind. It is often used to pull the clew further toward the center or outboard than the cars allow.

Boom Preventer

A boom preventer is a line attached to the boom’s end when sailing off the wind. Its function is to hold the spar in place and prevent it from swinging wildly.

If the boat were to get an accidental gybe, it could cause serious damage to the rigging or even harm people on board. It is important for the rigger to be cautious when setting up the boom preventer.

Running Backstay

Running backstays is similar to a normal backstay but uses a line instead of a hydraulic tensioner. Some rigs have additional check stays or runners as well.

Bonus tip: Reefing

The term reefing is used when reducing the effective sailing area exposed to the wind of a given sail. Headsails are usually reefed by partially furling them in, and they often have marks for what we refer to as 1st, 2nd, and 3rd reefs.

The mainsail is reefed similarly with an in-mast furling or in-boom furling system.

On a traditional mast, we use a system called slab reefing. The system has reefing lines running through the boom to reinforced points on the luff and leech, allowing you to pull the sail down to the boom and effectively reduce the sail area.

Having at least two reefing points in the mainsail is normal, but most cruising sailboats have 3. The 3rd is used for the heaviest conditions, giving you only a tiny bit of sail area exposed to the wind.

You want to reef your sails  before  the wind increases to a point where your boat gets overpowered.

It is essential to practice your reefing technique . You will find yourself in situations with rapidly increasing winds where you need to reduce your sails quickly.

Rule of thumb:  If you think setting a reef might be a good idea, do it.

Shaking a reef  is the term used when we sail with a reefed sail and want to increase the sail area back to full.

Hardware used for sail handling and the running rigging

Furling system.

Most sailboats have their headsail on a furling system. A furling system is a tube that runs along the forestay from the bottom furler drum to the masthead swivel.

This system allows you to roll the headsail around the forestay, making furling the sail in and out accessible. It is also convenient when reefing the sail when the wind picks up, as you can easily do this from the safety of the cockpit. These furling systems come in manual versions and electric versions.

In-mast furling

In-mast furling is a system that rolls the mainsail in and out of the mast. To unfurl the mainsail, we use the  outhaul .

In-boom furling

In-boom furling is a system that rolls the mainsail in and out of the boom. This system has been costly and has mostly been seen on big yachts earlier. They are becoming more affordable and common on smaller boats, though. To unfurl this setup, we use the main halyard.

A Stack pack is also called a Lazy Bag or Lazy Pack. It is a bag with a zip attached to the boom where the mainsail is stored when unused. It protects the mainsail from UV rays from the sun and weather elements. It is a very nice and tidy way to store the mainsail and reefing lines if you don’t have in-mast or in-boom furling.

Lazy Jacks is a system of lines running from the stack pack to the mast. The Lazy Jacks guide the mainsail up and down from the Stack Pack and prevent it from falling down on the deck. It is also possible to rig Lazy Jacks without a Stack Pack.

A block is a pulley with a sheave wheel. Blocks are used to change the direction of a pull on a line or rope and give a mechanical advantage. They have many uses, especially onboard sailboats.

A winch is a metal drum that gives you a mechanical advantage to control and tighten lines. These can be operated by turning a rope around it and pulling manually or by a winch handle to get more force. Most modern winches are self-tailing, which means they lock the line on so you can winch the line without holding on to it. Some boats even have electrical winches operated by a button.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a horizontal track that the mainsheet is attached to through a series of blocks. The traveler enables you to adjust and lock the boom at an angle and also plays a critical part in trimming the mainsail.

Most cruising sailboats have their traveler attached to the top of the coachroof in front of the spray hood. A racing boat typically has the traveler in the cockpit near the helm to give the helmsman better control over the mainsheet.

The cars are basically a pulley or block attached to a track on the port and starboard deck that your headsail sheets run through. Cars are used to control the angle of the sheet between the clew and the deck. The cars are handy when you trim the sail to set the right balance of tension between the foot and leech, depending on your point of sail.

The jammer is used to lock a line in place. Most sailboats use these for locking the halyards, mainsheet, outhaul, reef lines, traveler lines, boom vang lines, etc. You can pull or winch a line through a closed jammer, but it won’t run away if you let go of it unless you open the lock. 

As I explained earlier, it is normal to have most or all of the lines led back to the cockpit, and they are usually run through a series of jammers.

The jammers are often labeled with the name of the line it locks, which makes it easier to remember which line goes where.

Spinnaker Pole

A spinnaker pole is a spar used to wing out a headsail when sailing off the wind, particularly the spinnaker. The spinnaker pole should have the same length as the distance between the mast and the forestay measured along the deck. We use a fore and aft guy and the pole’s topping lift to rig a pole correctly.

The rigging varies depending on the layout of the boat, but it usually looks like this:

• One line runs from the bow to the end of the pole.
• An aft line runs from near the stern to the end of the pole.
• A topping lift is used to raise and lower the pole.

Whisker Pole

A whisker pole is similar to the spinnaker pole and is rigged similarly. It is typically built lighter and attached to a track on the mast. These can be found in fixed lengths or adjustable lengths. Ideally, the length should be the same as the foot of the headsail you intend to pole out.

Boom Vang/Rod Kicker

The Boom Vang has a few different names. Rod-kicker, kicking strap, or kicker. It is used to tension the boom downwards. When you are sailing downwind and have the boom far out, the mainsheet won’t pull the boom down as much as inboard, and you can then use the vang to adjust the twist and shape of the mainsail.

Mooring line

A mooring line is a traditional rope lead through a fairlead to the vessel’s cleat and a mooring buoy, key, or pontoon.

Final words

Congratulations! By now, you should have a much better understanding of how the running rig on a sailboat functions. We’ve covered the different lines, their purpose, and the hardware used to operate them. I hope you’ve enjoyed this guide and learned something new.

Now it’s time to take what you’ve learned and put it into practice by getting out on the water, setting sail, and getting hands-on experience with the lines.

Or you can continue to my following guide and learn more about the different types of sails .

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

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How to Inspect and Tune a Sailboat Rig

• By Ralph Naranjo
• Updated: May 14, 2020

Major mast failures usually begin as minor hardware problems. At least that’s what scrap-bin forensics seems to confirm. So, instead of dreading a dismasting, prevent it with a sensible approach to rig maintenance.

Some sailors inspect their masts and rigging with the spar stepped, but most recognize how much will remain unseen. Riggers recommend that the mast come out every few years and be placed on a pair of sturdy sawhorses ready for close-up scrutiny. My DIY approach focuses on hardware junctions and points where load paths intersect. Packed in my rigger’s bag are the usual hand tools, plus a Scotch pad, a quality magnifying glass and a small digital camera to record the findings. The old rule of thumb is that standing rigging has a decade’s, or one circumnavigation’s, worth of reliability; it’s a benchmark that remains valid today.

Another important issue is the rigging’s designed safety factor, or how much stronger the components are than they need be. The catch here is material deterioration over time, and the fact that there’s a direct correlation between stronger structures and increased reliability. For example, by increasing 1-by-19 shrouds and their attendant hardware from 5/16 inch to 3/8 inch, the higher safe working load translates into a longer life span. It’s a legit assumption, but doing so is both costlier and adds weight aloft, which can rob performance. The same tenets apply for a larger-diameter spar section and greater wall thickness. Engineers and naval architects try to balance these competing factors.

Some decades ago, I watched the deck-stepped spar of my first little cruising sloop drop into the drink. It drove home the fact that it really is the little things that count. In that case, it was a stainless- steel toggle, connected to an upper shroud turnbuckle, which had endured a few too many on-off load cycles. A tiny, nearly invisible crack had opened up, and salt spray had found a new home. The resulting corrosion tipped the scale and led to a dramatic failure. Since then, rig scrutiny has become my obsession.

The old rule of thumb is that standing rigging has a decade’s, or one circumnavigation’s, worth of reliability.

Wire and rod end fittings need a close look, especially in areas where there are brown stains and signs of cracks, pitting or other surface deterioration. This includes an evaluation of clevis-pin holes that should be circular, not elongated. Confer the same level of scrutiny to the clevis pins themselves. Don’t confuse stainless-steel clevis pins with chrome-plated bronze pins. The latter are just fine when used in bronze fittings, but when a bronze clevis pin is placed in a stainless-steel chainplate hole, the bronze pin can be carved away by the much harder stainless-steel chainplate.

My inspection process includes a rigging-wire wipe-down with a rag that easily snags on tiny cracks. It includes careful scrutiny of hardware junctions. I search for signs of chafe, especially where fiber or wire running rigging makes directional changes at sheave boxes, and around where the headsail furler’s top swivel rides. Looking closely at masthead exit points, I check for sheave wobble, excess side play and signs of pulley damage.

This is also the time to sort out halyards that are rubbing against external or internal obstructions. I use a bright, narrow-beam LED flashlight for a good visual inspection of the internal portion of the mast. Not only will it pinpoint screws and sheave boxes that might be causing chafe, but it also will help you untangle crossed halyards and confirm fairleads. While working at the heel end of the spar, look closely for corrosion and a condition riggers call “elephant foot.” It’s an actual wrinkling of the alloy tube section caused by too much compression and a too-thin wall section. It’s most often seen on raceboats with powerful hydraulic mast-adjusting systems, and on cruising boats that have pounded into too many steep wave faces.

Roller furling foils hide the wire or rod on which they spin. Rigging end fittings and terminals can usually be inspected, but a broken strand of wire inside the foil might initially go unnoticed, at least for a little while. This is another reason why offshore cruisers opt for a cutter or solent rig that adds a second stay for some extra ­insurance. Following the once-a-­decade rule, it makes sense to completely disassemble furling systems, and replace the wire along with any worn bearings, bushings or plastic spacers.

My inspection process includes a wire wipe-down with a rag that easily snags on tiny cracks. I search for signs of chafe everywhere.

Keep in mind that when the mast is unstepped, many roller furling drums and head foils (especially on boats with deck-stepped rigs) extend beyond the heel of the spar. If the yard doesn’t splint and immobilize the extended foil and drum, do it yourself. All it entails is a couple of 2-by-4’s, or a pair of old oars lashed or duct-taped to the mast just above the heel. This double splint should extend to the base of the roller-furling drum where it too is lashed or taped. It keeps the drum from dangling and bending the foil during transport, and while the rig is stored on a mast rack.

Spreaders also deserve a really close look. All too often, excess anti-chafe protection results in the spreader tips becoming a water trap that turns into a hidden corrosion bath. So, when the rig is down, cut away the spreader-tip padding, and use white vinegar and a plastic scrub pad to get rid of any white powdery oxidation. Remove the spreaders from the spar, and inspect the area where spreader bases make contact with the mast. Look for compression damage to the mast wall and signs of corrosion damage. If all is well, reassemble using one of the tried-and-proven water-resistant lubricants. I’ve settled on Lanocote, McLube Sailkote and Super Lube, using Boeshield T-9 and WD-40 as my go-to spray protectant and penetrant. Throw away the old cotter pins, and use new pins on all of the reassembled rigging.

“She’ll be right, mate,” was the favorite phrase of an old Kiwi friend, but it isn’t good advice when it comes to keeping the rig where it belongs. Don’t shy away from calling in a qualified rigger to handle larger problems.

Most boatyards will restep spars but won’t tune the rig. Their goal is to set up the mast and rigging to approximate how it arrived. Occasionally, they hit the mark and even replace the mast wedges appropriately. Otherwise, I wait for a flat calm to make sure that the boat has no list. This involves using a tape measure to confirm the athwartship trim (waterline to rail-height port equals waterline to rail-height starboard). Then I check the perpendicular and rake of the mast using the main halyard with a makeshift plumb bob (dive weight) attached. The retune requires loosening the turnbuckles and incrementally retensioning the rigging. Small amounts of headstay and backstay adjustment relocates the masthead, causing the makeshift plumb bob to move significantly. I use prior measurements from previous mast-tuning successes to set the rake to a sweet spot that, in the past, delivered a minimal amount of weather helm.

With the rake set, I insert a set of teak or high-density hard-rubber wedges between the mast and the mast partners. These wedge-shaped spacers have a top flange that prevents them from falling into the bilge when the mast compresses on one side of the partners and opens the gap wider on the other. With all the wedges set, I incrementally add tension to the rig, tightening headstay and backstay first, while carefully maintaining the rake angle. Next, I adjust the upper shroud (or V1), working from side to side to keep the mast perpendicular. Finally, I snug up (but not overtension) the lower and intermediate shrouds. This static tuning sets the stage for an underway final tune, during which I check how well the spar remains in column. Leeward bends and S-curves are problematic and must be minimized. Boats with discontinuous rigging have shrouds that are not one continuous wire run. They utilize turnbuckles located above spreaders that must be individually adjusted to eliminate side bend.

During sea trials, make sure the leeward standing rigging is not overly slack and flopping around like loose spaghetti.

Intentional fore and aft mast bending can influence sail shape, and is put to good use aboard raceboats. Adding such complication to most cruising boats, which are ­normally steered by an autopilot, makes less sense. In-mast furling spars are least happy with powerful hydraulic backstays bowing the mast. So, get sound advice from a rigger/mast builder before adding hydraulic sail-shaping gear.

A sea trial should follow your static mast tune. And as you beat to windward in a modest 10- to 15-knot true breeze, check the leeward standing rigging. Make sure it’s not overly slack and flopping around like loose spaghetti. If so, add more shroud tension to both sides. A tension-testing gauge will work, but many sailors do fine estimating by hand. Cruising-boat rigs shouldn’t have the same amount of rig tension as a raceboat ­beating to windward. However, if your sailboat’s mast is deck-stepped, make sure the coachroof isn’t deforming due to the compression load. A compression post, ring frame or other rigid structure should be spreading such loads. If you’re unsure of the correct rig tune, arrange a session with a rigger or sailmaker—and start the season in optimized trim.

Technical expert Ralph Naranjo has inspected the rig on his Ericson 41, Wind Shadow , on countless occasions.

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Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)

When you first get into sailing, there are a lot of sailboat parts to learn. Scouting for a good guide to all the parts, I couldn't find any, so I wrote one myself.

Below, I'll go over each different sailboat part. And I mean each and every one of them. I'll walk you through them one by one, and explain each part's function. I've also made sure to add good illustrations and clear diagrams.

This article is a great reference for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It's a great starting point, but also a great reference manual. Let's kick off with a quick general overview of the different sailboat parts.

General Overview

The different segments

You can divide up a sailboat in four general segments. These segments are arbitrary (I made them up) but it will help us to understand the parts more quickly. Some are super straightforward and some have a bit more ninja names.

Something like that. You can see the different segments highlighted in this diagram below:

The hull is what most people would consider 'the boat'. It's the part that provides buoyancy and carries everything else: sails, masts, rigging, and so on. Without the hull, there would be no boat. The hull can be divided into different parts: deck, keel, cabin, waterline, bilge, bow, stern, rudder, and many more.

I'll show you those specific parts later on. First, let's move on to the mast.

Sailboats Explained

The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat.

I think this segment speaks mostly for itself. Most modern sailboats you see will have two sails up, but they can carry a variety of other specialty sails. And there are all kinds of sail plans out there, which determine the amount and shape of sails that are used.

The Rigging

This is probably the most complex category of all of them.

Rigging is the means with which the sails are attached to the mast. The rigging consists of all kinds of lines, cables, spars, and hardware. It's the segment with the most different parts.

The most important parts

If you learn anything from this article, here are the most important parts of any sailboat. You will find all of these parts in some shape or form on almost any sailboat.

Okay, we now have a good starting point and a good basic understanding of the different sailboat parts. It's time for the good stuff. We're going to dive into each segment in detail.

Below, I'll go over them one by one, pointing out its different parts on a diagram, listing them with a brief explanation, and showing you examples as well.

After reading this article, you'll recognize every single sailboat part and know them by name. And if you forget one, you're free to look it up in this guide.

On this page:

The hull is the heart of the boat. It's what carries everything: the mast, the sails, the rigging, the passengers. The hull is what provides the sailboat with its buoyancy, allowing it to stay afloat.

Sailboats mostly use displacement hulls, which is a shape that displaces water when moving through it. They are generally very round and use buoyancy to support its own weight. These two characteristics make sure it is a smooth ride.

There are different hull shapes that work and handle differently. If you want to learn more about them, here's the Illustrated Guide to Boat Hull Types (with 11 Examples ). But for now, all we need to know is that the hull is the rounded, floating part of any sailboat.

Instead of simply calling the different sides of a hull front, back, left and right , we use different names in sailing. Let's take a look at them.

The bow is the front part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'front'. It's the pointy bit that cuts through the water. The shape of the bow determines partially how the boat handles.

The stern is the back part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'back'. The shape of the stern partially determines the stability and speed of the boat. With motorboats, the stern lies deep inside the water, and the hull is flatter aft. Aft also means back. This allows it to plane, increasing the hull speed. For sailboats, stability is much more important, so the hull is rounded throughout, increasing its buoyancy and hydrodynamic properties.

The transom is the backplate of the boat's hull. It's the most aft (rear) part of the boat.

Port is the left side of a sailboat.

Starboard is the right side of a sailboat

The bilges are the part where the bottom and the sides of the hull meet. On sailboats, these are typically very round, which helps with hydrodynamics. On powerboats, they tend to have an angle.

The waterline is the point where the boat's hull meets the water. Generally, boat owners paint the waterline and use antifouling paint below it, to protect it from marine growth.

The deck is the top part of the boat's hull. In a way, it's the cap of the boat, and it holds the deck hardware and rigging.

Displacement hulls are very round and smooth, which makes them very efficient and comfortable. But it also makes them very easy to capsize: think of a canoe, for example.

The keel is a large fin that offsets the tendency to capsize by providing counterbalance. Typically, the keel carries ballast in the tip, creating a counterweight to the wind's force on the sails.

The rudder is the horizontal plate at the back of the boat that is used to steer by setting a course and maintaining it. It is connected to the helm or tiller.

Tiller or Helm

• The helm is simply the nautical term for the wheel.
• The tiller is simply the nautical term for the steering stick.

The tiller or helm is attached to the rudder and is used to steer the boat. Most smaller sailboats (below 30') have a tiller, most larger sailboats use a helm. Large ocean-going vessels tend to have two helms.

The cockpit is the recessed part in the deck where the helmsman sits or stands. It tends to have some benches. It houses the outside navigation and systems interfaces, like the compass, chartplotter, and so on. It also houses the mainsheet traveler and winches for the jib. Most boats are set up so that the entire vessel can be operated from the cockpit (hence the name). More on those different parts later.

Most larger boats have some sort of roofed part, which is called the cabin. The cabin is used as a shelter, and on cruising sailboats you'll find the galley for cooking, a bed, bath room, and so on.

The mast is the pole on a sailboat that holds the sails. Sailboats can have one or multiple masts, depending on the mast configuration. Most sailboats have only one or two masts. Three masts or more is less common.

The boom is the horizontal pole on the mast, that holds the mainsail in place.

The sails seem simple, but actually consist of many moving parts. The parts I list below work for most modern sailboats - I mean 90% of them. However, there are all sorts of specialty sails that are not included here, to keep things concise.

The mainsail is the largest sail on the largest mast. Most sailboats use a sloop rigging (just one mast with one bermuda mainsail). In that case, the main is easy to recognize. With other rig types, it gets more difficult, since there can be multiple tall masts and large sails.

If you want to take a look at the different sail plans and rig types that are out there, I suggest reading my previous guide on how to recognize any sailboat here (opens in new tab).

Sail sides:

• Leech - Leech is the name for the back side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Luff - Luff is the name for the front side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Foot - Foot is the name for the lower side of the sail, where it meets the boom.

Sail corners:

• Clew - The clew is the lower aft (back) corner of the mainsail, where the leech is connected to the foot. The clew is attached to the boom.
• Tack - The tack is the lower front corner of the mainsail
• Head - The head is the top corner of the mainsail

Battens are horizontal sail reinforcers that flatten and stiffen the sail.

Telltales are small strings that show you whether your sail trim is correct. You'll find telltales on both your jib and mainsail.

The jib is the standard sized headsail on a Bermuda Sloop rig (which is the sail plan most modern sailboats use).

As I mentioned: there are all kinds, types, and shapes of sails. For an overview of the most common sail types, check out my Guide on Sail Types here (with photos).

The rigging is what is used to attach your sails and mast to your boat. Rigging, in other words, mostly consists of all kinds of lines. Lines are just another word for ropes. Come to think of it, sailors really find all kinds of ways to complicate the word rope ...

Two types of rigging

There are two types of rigging: running and standing rigging. The difference between the two is very simple.

• The running rigging is the rigging on a sailboat that's used to operate the sails. For example, the halyard, which is used to lower and heave the mainsail.
• The standing rigging is the rigging that is used to support the mast and sail plan.

Standing Rigging

Here are the different parts that belong to the standing rigging:

• Forestay or Headstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the bow of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Backstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the stern of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Sidestay or Shroud - Line or cable that supports the mast from the sides of the boat. Most sailboats use at least two sidestays (one on each side).
• Spreader - The sidestays are spaced to steer clear from the mast using spreaders.

Running Rigging: different words for rope

Ropes play a big part in sailing, and especially in control over the sails. In sailboat jargon, we call ropes 'lines'. But there are some lines with a specific function that have a different name. I think this makes it easier to communicate with your crew: you don't have to define which line you mean. Instead, you simply shout 'mainsheet!'. Yeah, that works.

Running rigging consists of the lines, sheets, and hardware that are used to control, raise, lower, shape and manipulate the sails on a sailboat. Rigging varies for different rig types, but since most sailboats are use a sloop rig, nearly all sailboats use the following running rigging:

• Halyards -'Halyard' is simply the nautical name for lines or ropes that are used to raise and lower the mainsail. The halyard is attached to the top of the mainsail sheet, or the gaffer, which is a top spar that attaches to the mainsail. You'll find halyards on both the mainsail and jib.
• Sheets - 'Sheet' is simply the nautical term for lines or ropes that are used to set the angle of the sail.
• Mainsheet - The line, or sheet, that is used to set the angle of the mainsail. The mainsheet is attached to the Mainsheet traveler. More on that under hardware.
• Jib Sheet - The jib mostly comes with two sheets: one on each side of the mast. This prevents you from having to loosen your sheet, throwing it around the other side of the mast, and tightening it. The jib sheets are often controlled using winches (more on that under hardware).
• Cleats are small on-deck hooks that can be used to tie down sheets and lines after trimming them.
• Reefing lines - Lines that run through the mainsail, used to put a reef in the main.
• The Boom Topping Lift is a line that is attached to the aft (back) end of the boom and runs to the top of the mast. It supports the boom whenever you take down the mainsail.
• The Boom Vang is a line that places downward tension on the boom.

There are some more tensioning lines, but I'll leave them for now. I could probably do an entire guide on the different sheets on a sailboat. Who knows, perhaps I'll write it.

This is a new segment, that I didn't mention before. It's a bit of an odd duck, so I threw all sorts of stuff into this category. But they are just as important as all the other parts. Your hardware consists of cleats, winches, traveler and so on. If you don't know what all of this means, no worries: neither did I. Below, you'll find a complete overview of the different parts.

Deck Hardware

Just a brief mention of the different deck hardware parts:

• Pulpits are fenced platforms on the sailboat's stern and bow, which is why they are called the bow pulpit and stern pulpit here. They typically have a solid steel framing for safety.
• Stanchons are the standing poles supporting the lifeline , which combined for a sort of fencing around the sailboat's deck. On most sailboats, steel and steel cables are used for the stanchons and lifelines.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a rail in the cockpit that is used to control the mainsheet. It helps to lock the mainsheet in place, fixing the mainsails angle to the wind.

If you're interested in learning more about how to use the mainsheet traveler, Matej has written a great list of tips for using your mainsheet traveler the right way . It's a good starting point for beginners.

Winches are mechanical or electronic spools that are used to easily trim lines and sheets. Most sailboats use winches to control the jib sheets. Modern large sailing yachts use electronic winches for nearly all lines. This makes it incredibly easy to trim your lines.

You'll find the compass typically in the cockpit. It's the most old-skool navigation tool out there, but I'm convinced it's also one of the most reliable. In any way, it definitely is the most solid backup navigator you can get for the money.

Want to learn how to use a compass quickly and reliably? It's easy. Just read my step-by-step beginner guide on How To Use a Compass (opens in new tab .

Chartplotter

Most sailboats nowadays use, besides a compass and a map, a chartplotter. Chartplotters are GPS devices that show a map and a course. It's very similar to your normal car navigation.

Outboard motor

Most sailboats have some sort of motor to help out when there's just the slightest breeze. These engines aren't very big or powerful, and most sailboats up to 32' use an outboard motor. You'll find these at the back of the boat.

Most sailboats carry 1 - 3 anchors: one bow anchor (the main one) and two stern anchors. The last two are optional and are mostly used by bluewater cruisers.

I hope this was helpful, and that you've gained a good understanding of the different parts involved in sailing. I wanted to write a good walk-through instead of overwhelming you with lists and lists of nautical terms. I hope I've succeeded. If so, I appreciate any comments and tips below.

I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, without getting into the real nitty gritty. That would make for a gigantic article. However, if you feel I've left something out that really should be in here, please let me know in the comments below, so I can update the article.

I own a small 20 foot yacht called a Red witch made locally back in the 70s here in Western Australia i found your article great and enjoyed reading it i know it will be a great help for me in my future leaning to sail regards John.

David Gardner

İ think this is a good explanation of the difference between a ”rope” and a ”line”:

Rope is unemployed cordage. In other words, when it is in a coil and has not been assigned a job, it is just a rope.

On the other hand, when you prepare a rope for a specific task, it becomes employed and is a line. The line is labeled by the job it performs; for example, anchor line, dock line, fender line, etc.

Hey Mr. Buckles

I am taking on new crew to race with me on my Flying Scot (19ft dingy). I find your Sailboat Parts Explained to be clear and concise. I believe it will help my new crew learn the language that we use on the boat quickly without being overwhelmed.

PS: my grandparents were from Friesland and emigrated to America.

Thank you Shawn for the well written, clear and easy to digest introductory article. Just after reading this first article I feel excited and ready to set sails and go!! LOL!! Cheers! Daniel.

steve Balog

well done, chap

Great intro. However, the overview diagram misidentifies the cockpit location. The cockpit is located aft of the helm. Your diagram points to a location to the fore of the helm.

William Thompson-Ambrose

An excellent introduction to the basic anatomy and function of the sailboat. Anyone who wants to start sailing should consider the above article before stepping aboard! Thank-you

James Huskisson

Thanks for you efforts mate. We’ve all got to start somewhere. Thanks for sharing. Hoping to my first yacht. 25ft Holland. Would love to cross the Bass Strait one day to Tasmania. 👌 Cheers mate

Alan Alexander Percy

thankyou ijust aquired my first sailboat at 66yrs of age its down at pelican point a beautifull place in virginia usa my sailboat is a redwing 30 if you are ever in the area i wouldnt mind your guidance and superior knowledge of how to sail but iam sure your fantastic article will help my sailboat is wings 30 ft

Thanks for quick refresher course. Having sailed in California for 20+ years I now live in Spain where I have to take a spanish exam for a sailboat license. Problem is, it’s only in spanish. So a lot to learn for an old guy like me.

Very comprehensive, thank you

Your article really brought all the pieces together for me today. I have been adventuring my first sailing voyage for 2 months from the Carolinas and am now in Eleuthera waiting on weather to make the Exumas!!! Great job and thanks

Helen Ballard

I’ve at last found something of an adventure to have in sailing, so I’m starting at the basics, I have done a little sailing but need more despite being over 60 life in the old dog etc, thanks for your information 😊

Barbara Scott

I don’t have a sailboat, neither do l plan to literally take to the waters. But for mental exercise, l have decided to take to sailing in my Bermuda sloop, learning what it takes to become a good sailor and run a tight ship, even if it’s just imaginary. Thank you for helping me on my journey to countless adventures and misadventures, just to keep it out of the doldrums! (I’m a 69 year old African American female who have rediscovered why l enjoyed reading The Adventures of Robert Louis Stevenson as well as his captivating description of sea, wind, sailboat,and sailor).

Great article and very good information source for a beginner like me. But I didn’t find out what I had hoped to, which is, what are all those noisy bits of kit on top of the mast? I know the one with the arrow is a weather vane, but the rest? Many thanks, Jay.

Louis Cohen

The main halyard is attached to the head of the mainsail, not the to the mainsheet. In the USA, we say gaff, not gaffer. The gaff often has its own halyard separate from the main halyard.

Other than that it’s a nice article with good diagrams.

A Girl Who Has an Open Sail Dream

Wow! That was a lot of great detail! Thank you, this is going to help me a lot on my project!

Hi, good info, do u know a book that explains all the systems on a candc 27,

Leave a comment

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Mast Stepped: A Comprehensive Guide to Properly Installing and Maintaining Your Sailboat’s Mast

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 17, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer mast stepped: Mast stepped refers to the position where a sailing boat’s mast is supported and secured on deck. It commonly involves attaching the base of the mast to a step or partners, ensuring proper rigidity and stability for sailing operations.

What does it mean for a mast to be stepped on a sailboat?

Blog Title: Navigating the Seas: Demystifying Mast Stepping on a Sailboat

Introduction: Sailing is often associated with a sense of freedom and adventure, as you glide through the serene waters powered only by the wind. However, behind every majestic sailboat lies a complex set of components working in synchrony. One such crucial element is the mast, which plays an integral role in allowing your vessel to conquer the seas. In this blog post, we will delve into what it truly means for a mast to be stepped on a sailboat and explore its significance in sailing.

What is Mast Stepping? When we refer to “stepping” the mast on a sailboat, we are essentially describing the process of erecting or installing it onto the boat’s deck. Picture this: just like erecting a tent requires setting up poles, attaching beams, and securing them firmly in place – stepping the mast follows similar principles but with much more complexity.

The Role of Mast: To comprehend why this process holds vital importance for sailors, understanding the role of a mast itself is paramount. The mast serves as an essential vertical spar that supports and secures all standing rigging – encompassing shrouds and stays – which ensures that your sails remain taut amidst ever-changing weather conditions. Additionally, it houses various components necessary for smooth navigation, including halyards (ropes used to raise and lower sails), sheaves (pulleys facilitating rope movement), and even instrumentation like wind sensors or radar systems.

Now that we have established why masts are pivotal in sailing, let’s explore the different types of masts commonly found on sailboats:

1. Keel-Stepped Mast: In modern sailboats, keel-stepped masts are prevalent. These masts rest securely in support at their base within or directly on top of the keel (the large fin-like structure underwater). This design enhances structural integrity and stability while also allowing for easy maintenance.

2. Deck-Stepped Mast: Alternatively, some sailboats feature deck-stepped masts. These masts are secured on the boat’s deck itself, with a lower support or compression post transmitting the mast’s loads to the keel. Deck-stepped masts offer advantages like simplified installation and removal, making them particularly favorable for smaller boats or those frequently transported by trailer.

The Process of Stepping the Mast: Now that you grasp the significance of the mast and understand its types let’s explore how this intricate process is executed:

1. Preparation: Before embarking on mast stepping, it is crucial to ensure that all necessary rigging hardware, lines, hoisting equipment (such as a crane or gin pole), and safety gear are readily available. Thoroughly inspecting all components for wear and tear is equally important to avoid any mishaps during installation.

2. Alignment & Integrity Check: Next comes aligning the mast properly at its designated step point on the boat’s deck or within/upon the keel structure (depending on mast type). Checking for proper alignment prevents undue stress on both the boat and mast while ensuring efficient sailing performance.

3. Hoisting & Securing: With preparation complete and alignment precise, it’s time to gently hoist the mast using an appropriate force measurement technique to prevent overloading any connection points or causing damage. Adequately securing the mast at its step point is paramount – utilizing sturdy stainless steel bolts, shackles, or other suitable fixtures ensures a robust connection.

4. Rigging Installation: Once your mast stands tall and firm, it’s time to attach various standing rigging elements such as shrouds, stays, halyards – each with their specific task in supporting sail control systems aboard your vessel. This requires careful attention to detail – adjusting tensions correctly according to manufacturer guidelines guarantees optimal sail performance across different wind conditions.

Conclusion: Stepping the mast on a sailboat is a critical procedure that sets the foundation for successful and safe sailing adventures. A well-adjusted mast brings stability, facilitates efficient control, and allows your sails to harness the power of the wind, propelling you towards new horizons. So, next time you embark on an aquatic journey, appreciate the skill and craftsmanship behind this process – knowing that every smooth glide owes its gratitude to a perfectly stepped mast.

How is a mast stepped on a sailboat? A step-by-step guide.

Stepping the mast on a sailboat is a fundamental process that marks the beginning of every sailing adventure. It involves raising and securing the mast into its proper position, allowing for the attachment of sails and rigging, ultimately enabling the boat to harness the power of wind and embark on exciting voyages. In this step-by-step guide, we will explore the intricacies of stepping a mast, providing you with all the necessary knowledge to do so successfully.

Step 1: Preparation Before stepping your mast, it is important to ensure that all preceding preparations have been completed. This includes assembling all necessary tools and equipment such as shackles, halyards, or winches. Additionally, inspecting both your boat’s standing rigging and mast itself for any signs of damage or wear is crucial for safety and optimal performance during future sailing endeavors.

Step 2: Clearing obstructions In order to safely step your mast onto your sailboat’s deck, make sure that all potential obstructions are removed. Check for any lines or fittings that may hinder the smooth process of raising the mast. A clutter-free workspace will significantly reduce stress and allow for seamless progress throughout this procedure.

Step 3: Proper positioning You now need to position your sailboat in an ideal location from where you can safely step the mast. Find a spot protected from strong winds or currents that might make this task more challenging. Ideally, choose an area with ample space around you to maneuver freely without risking damage to your vessel or nearby objects.

Step 4: Assemble assistance team Without doubt, stepping a mast is rarely a one-person job. Recruiting assistance from fellow sailors or friends will not only make this process less physically demanding but also contribute to safer execution overall. Ensure everyone involved understands their assigned roles and responsibilities before proceeding further.

Step 5: Attach standing rigging Begin the process of stepping the mast by attaching and adjusting the standing rigging. This includes securing your forestay, backstay, shrouds, and any other supporting cables or wires. Follow manufacturer guidelines and best practices to ensure proper tension and alignment. It is vital to double-check all connections, as loose or improperly attached rigging can compromise the stability and performance of your sailboat.

Step 6: Hoisting the mast Here comes the exciting part – raising the mast! Depending on your boat’s design, this step might require a crane or a simple manual lifting mechanism. Communicate clearly with your team and follow a synchronized approach while hoisting the mast to avoid any accidents or setbacks.

Step 7: Aligning and securing Once your mast is in an upright position, carefully align it with its designated base partner (known as a step) on deck. Any misalignment at this stage can result in unwanted stress on fittings or potentially damage critical components of your sailboat’s rigging system. Use shims if necessary to level out any minor discrepancies.

Step 8: Stabilizing and tightening Now that your mast is properly aligned, securely fasten it using nuts, bolts, or pins provided by its design specifications. Pay close attention to recommended torque values to avoid under- or over-tightening. This step ensures that even under significant wind forces, your mast remains steadfastly anchored.

Step 9: Check for secure fit Before celebrating the successful completion of stepping your sailboat’s mast, conduct a final inspection to ensure everything is secure. Inspect all attachments points thoroughly, checking for signs of movement or looseness. Shake the mast gently from various angles to identify any wobbling that may indicate insufficient tightening.

By following these nine steps meticulously, you will have successfully stepped the mast on your sailboat like a pro! Properly stepping a mast ensures both safety and optimal performance, granting you the freedom to set sail and explore new horizons with confidence. Remember, if you ever feel unsure or uncomfortable during any stage of this process, consult your boat’s manufacturer or seek professional assistance for guidance. Happy sailing!

Mast Stepped: Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

At Mast Stepped, we understand that many boat owners have questions about the mast-stepping process. To help alleviate any concerns or confusion, we’ve compiled a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ) below. Read on to discover detailed professional answers to these queries.

1. What is mast stepping, and why is it important? Mast stepping refers to the process of raising a boat’s mast into its designated position. This task is crucial because it enables your boat to properly harness wind power for sailing or cruising. A well-aligned and secured mast ensures better performance and stability on the water.

2. When should I step my mast? Mast stepping is typically done during spring commissioning, when boats are taken out of winter storage and prepared for the upcoming season. However, it can also be necessary if you’re re-rigging your mast or performing maintenance on your rigging system.

3. Can I step my mast by myself? Stepping a mast requires careful planning, preparation, and coordination. While some experienced sailors may be able to do it alone, it’s generally recommended to have at least one other person assisting you. Moreover, enlisting professionals who specialize in mast stepping can provide extra peace of mind and ensure a smooth process.

4. How much does professional mast stepping cost? The cost of professional mast stepping services varies depending on factors such as the size and complexity of your boat’s rigging system, location, and additional services required. It’s best to request quotes from reputable marine service providers who can assess your specific needs accurately.

5. What steps are involved in the mast-stepping process? Mast stepping involves several key steps:

– Preparation: Ensure all rigging lines are securely attached with no tangles or snags. – Support: Use sturdy supports such as a crane or gin pole to temporarily hold your mast in place during the raising process. – Alignment: Carefully align the mast with the boat’s keel, making sure it is perpendicular to the waterline. – Attachment: Securely attach the mast to its base (deck or keel) using appropriate hardware and fasteners. – Rigging: Reconnect all necessary lines, cables, and electrical connections according to your boat’s specific rigging configuration.

6. Are there any safety precautions I should take during mast stepping? Safety is paramount when dealing with a tall structure like a mast. It’s essential to follow best practices such as wearing proper protective gear (e.g., harnesses), using secure lifting equipment, and conducting a thorough inspection of all rigging materials beforehand. Additionally, be cautious of overhead powerlines that may pose a hazard during the mast raising process.

7. How often should I inspect my mast and rigging system? Regular inspections are crucial for detecting any signs of wear, corrosion, or damage that could compromise your boat’s safety while at sea. Ideally, you should visually inspect your rigging system yearly and perform more detailed examinations every three to five years or as recommended by professionals.

8. Can Mast Stepped assist me in selecting the right rigging components? Absolutely! Our team of experts can provide guidance on selecting appropriate rigging components tailored to your boat’s specifications and sailing needs. From wire ropes to turnbuckles and fittings, we’ll help you choose durable and reliable equipment from trusted manufacturers.

9. What are some common indicators that my mast needs attention? Signs that your mast may require attention include loose shrouds or stays, clanging noises while under sail, excessive movement or swaying of the mast when underway, leaks around deck penetrations connected to your mast (e.g., halyard exits), visible cracks or deformation on any part of the structure. If you notice any of these issues, it’s best to have them inspected promptly by professionals.

10. Can Mast Stepped assist with unstepping a mast too? Absolutely! Just as we specialize in mast stepping, our services also encompass unstepping masts. Whether you’re preparing for winter storage or need to address rigging maintenance, we have the expertise and equipment to safely handle the de-rigging process.

In conclusion, at Mast Stepped, we understand that proper mast stepping is essential for optimal sailing performance and safety. By addressing frequently asked questions about this process, we aim to empower boat owners with knowledge and resources to ensure their rigs are ready for every adventure on the water. Whether you decide to tackle mast stepping yourself or seek professional assistance, don’t overlook this crucial aspect of boat maintenance – your sailing experience will thank you!

The importance of proper mast stepping for sailboat performance.

Title: Elevating Sailboat Performance: Unveiling the Crucial Role of Proper Mast Stepping

Introduction: Ah, the allure of sailing! The mere thought of gliding through azure waters on a sailboat evokes a sense of freedom and adventure. Yet, behind every successful seafaring expedition lies an often overlooked factor that can make or break a sailor’s experience – proper mast stepping. In this blog, we delve deeper into the importance of ensuring your sailboat’s mast is securely and skillfully stepped, unlocking the secrets behind achieving optimal performance on the high seas.

1. Stability in Every Gust: Imagine navigating a turbulent sea only to find yourself at the mercy of every gusty squall. The trunk-like stability of proper mast stepping is precisely what separates sublime sailing from unbridled chaos. By meticulously aligning and securing your boat’s mast, you establish a foundation that resists excessive movement when encountering powerful wind currents. This stability not only enhances safety but also allows you to maintain better control over your vessel, optimizing performance even in challenging conditions.

2. Maintaining Alignment: Taming Sail Power: A crucial aspect of proper mast stepping lies in maintaining perfect alignment between your sails and rigging components. Just as an orchestra conductor ensures each musician produces harmonious melodies, correctly aligning your mast orchestrates collaboration between sail power and hull dynamics – key factors influencing boat speed and responsiveness. Through careful adjustment and tuning during mast stepping, optimum alignment can be achieved, maximizing propulsion efficiency while minimizing unnecessary strain on vital components.

3. Mastering Balance for Speed: Speed aficionados know that reducing drag is paramount to capturing those elusive knots on open waters. Correctly stepped masts enable boats to strike an equilibrium where dynamic forces align symmetrically with hydrodynamic profiles beneath the waterline—less drag equals more speed! Aligning the center of effort (where sails produce force) with the centerboard or keel down below ensures enhanced balance and a streamlined course through the waves, transforming your boat into a true speed demon.

4. The Symphonic Rigging Ensemble: Proper mast stepping unifies all elements of your sailboat’s rigging system into a harmonious symphony. Whether sails, sheaves, halyards, or shrouds – each element has its part to play in creating the perfect melody that propels you forward. By ensuring precise mast alignment during stepping, you unleash the full potential of each component to work together seamlessly, unlocking enhanced efficiency and promoting optimal performance on every seafaring escapade.

5. Defying Cataclysm: Durability and Safety: A sailboat is only as strong as its weakest link, and improper mast stepping can undermine not just performance but also safety at sea. The consequences of neglecting this critical aspect can range from sagging masts to compromised connections that give way when challenged by harsh weather or sudden jolts. Skillful mast stepping eliminates vulnerability by guaranteeing robust connections, significantly reducing the risk of structural failure or catastrophic dismasting when navigating choppy waters.

Conclusion: From beginners embarking on their maiden voyage to seasoned sailors seeking to optimize their craft’s performance, proper mast stepping remains an indispensable factor deserving meticulous attention. When done skillfully, it unveils a world where stability meets agility, harmony merges with power, and durability fuses with safety—all seamlessly working together to elevate your sailboat’s performance above all expectations. So next time you set sail, don’t overlook the importance of proper mast stepping – let it be the wind in your sails!

Common challenges and troubleshooting when stepping a mast.

Stepping a mast can often be a daunting task, especially for novice sailors or boat owners who are new to the process. It is important to approach it with caution and follow proper techniques to ensure a successful outcome. In this blog post, we will discuss some of the common challenges that you may encounter when stepping a mast and provide effective troubleshooting tips to overcome them.

1. Aligning the Mast: One of the primary challenges is aligning the mast properly during installation. Improper alignment can lead to structural issues or difficulty in raising and lowering the sails smoothly. To tackle this challenge, utilize a mast-stepping partner if available or seek assistance from crew members. Communicate clearly and establish guidelines to ensure everyone understands their roles in aligning the mast correctly.

2. Clearing Obstacles: Another challenge involves clearing any potential obstacles such as rigging lines, electrical wires, or deformed deck hardware that might hinder the smooth stepping of the mast. Conduct a thorough inspection of your boat’s setup beforehand and anticipate these obstacles in advance. If possible, reroute or temporarily remove any obstructions before beginning the process.

3. Dealing with Underneath Services: Boats often have various services passing through their decks, including plumbing lines, wiring conduits, or even fuel lines. Ensuring that these services are adequately protected during mast stepping is crucial to prevent damage while also ensuring they don’t impede the process. Consider using protective covers such as pipe insulation or duct tape where necessary.

4. Adjusting Tension: Proper tension adjustment for shrouds and stays plays an essential role in maintaining structural integrity and sail performance after stepping the mast. However, achieving optimum tension can be challenging due to factors such as limited visibility or excessive friction on turnbuckles when adjusting rigging lines under pressure. Utilize proper tools like turnbuckle wrenches or lubricants specifically designed for marine applications to ease tension adjustments effectively.

5. Securing the Mast: Once the mast is stepped and correctly aligned, it is crucial to secure it firmly while also avoiding excessive compression or stress points. Common methods include tensioning support lines (also known as “baby stays”) or using strap systems directly connected to the mast base. Ensure that these securing measures are evenly distributed on both sides of the mast and properly tensioned to maintain its stability.

6. Rigging Tuning: After successfully stepping the mast, you may need to fine-tune your boat’s rigging for optimal sailing performance. This can involve adjusting shroud tensions, forestay length, or mast rake depending on wind conditions and desired sail shape. Consult your boat’s manual or seek advice from experienced sailors to ensure proper tuning techniques specific to your vessel.

Stepping a mast requires patience, attention to detail, and a methodical approach. By understanding and addressing potential challenges in advance, you will be well-prepared to troubleshoot any problems that arise during this critical process. Remember, seeking guidance from seasoned sailors or professional riggers can greatly assist you in overcoming these challenges effectively and maintaining a safe sailing experience.

Mastering the art of mast stepping: Tips and techniques for sailboat owners.

Mastering the Art of Mast Stepping: Tips and Techniques for Sailboat Owners

Are you a proud sailboat owner? If so, then you already know that becoming an expert at mast stepping is a critical skill to possess. The process of stepping the mast might seem daunting at first, but with the right knowledge and technique, it can be mastered in no time. In this blog post, we will delve into the intricacies of mastering this art form, offering you valuable tips and techniques that will make raising your sailboat’s mast a breeze.

1. Safety First – Before even attempting to step your boat’s mast, ensure that safety is at the forefront of your mind. Taking precautions such as wearing appropriate safety gear (including a sturdy helmet), having a spotter to assist you, and checking all equipment thoroughly will minimize potential risks.

2. Plan Ahead – Planning plays a pivotal role in any successful endeavor, and stepping your boat’s mast is no exception. Familiarize yourself with the manufacturer’s instructions specific to your sailboat model. Understanding the exact procedure beforehand will prevent unnecessary confusion or errors during the process.

3. Gather Your Tools – To execute this task seamlessly, prepare by gathering all necessary tools and equipment beforehand. Common tools required include a tape measure, wrenches or socket sets (size determined by fasteners), shackles or pins for connecting stays/drill booms/Bob Stay/etc., halyards (mainly used for aligning fixtures), lubricants for easier installation, grease or anti-seize compound for preventing corrosion in stainless steel fittings.

4. Proper Alignment – Aligning your sailboat’s mast correctly is crucial to avoid damage when stepping it. Start by positioning the keel amidships while ensuring that fore/aft alignment rails are straightened in line with deck plates and web frames below decks using various measurements provided within manufacturers’ guidelines.

5. Calling on Friends – Family or friends come in handy during mast stepping. Having an extra pair of hands to assist you significantly reduces stress and increases efficiency. Assigning roles helps delegation, such as someone holding the base of the mast while another person secures the stays or shrouds.

6. Slow and Steady – While eagerness may prompt a desire to rush through this process, taking it slow and steady is key. Moving too quickly can lead to mistakes, mishaps, or even accidents. Patience and attention to detail are your allies throughout mast stepping.

7. The Power of Technology – Modern technology offers various tools that simplify mast-stepping tasks. Using a block-and-tackle system or an electric winch will reduce physical strain when raising your boat’s mast, allowing for smoother operations.

8. Avoiding Snags – Ensure that all lines, halyards, and anything else that could snag on surrounding objects are cleared away before starting the mast-stepping process. This prevents unnecessary snags and potential damage to your sailboat or surrounding structures.

9. The Perfect Alignment – Achieving perfect alignment involves using halyards or temporary stays to adjust for lateral movement once the spar is raised partially but not fully secured yet – don’t be afraid to make minor tweaks until satisfied with the outcome.

10.Preventing Corrosion – Regularly inspecting fittings for corrosion is essential in maintaining your sailboat’s overall integrity. Consider using anti-seize compound or grease on stainless steel fasteners during reassembly to mitigate future corrosion risks.

Mastering the art of mast stepping requires patience, practice, and attention to detail – but with these tips and techniques under your belt, you’ll soon become a pro at this vital skill for every sailboat owner! Remember always to prioritize safety first and enjoy many successful ventures out on the open water!

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• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Boat Clinic: Tuning the Masthead Rig

My father was a rarity: he really did not care at all how well the boats he sailed performed. Perhaps this was because, in his youth and young manhood, he had been both a tremendously aggressive and a wonderfully successful athlete and thus had wrung out his competitive needs.

Tuning the rig of a boat is one of the necessary -and pleasant -tasks which must be done to achieve good performance. In an untuned boat, the mast bends in odd ways, and this in turn causes the sails to set badly. By contrast, on a well tuned boat , the rig bends in a controlled fashion, allowing the sails to do their best. For this reason, an avid racer will be constantly fiddling with the tune of his boat, while for most of us a one time job during commissioning may suffice.

The first thing to realize is that for a mast to stand well, it should not be straight when in a static, no load situation. This was something I realized nearly thirty years ago when conventional advice was to tune rigs so that masts were indeed straight when static, and while that advice is still sometimes given, most of the sailing world has realized that a controlled static bend is needed.

The problem with a statically straight mast is that when loaded, it is too easy for the mast to invert, or bend backwards. This can happen when the boat is beating in a seaway or reaching with the spinnaker pole up. Most mast sections can accommodate a significant amount of forward bend without failure, but very little aft bend.

An afternoon spent on a poorly tuned boat a couple of seasons ago left me a nervous wreck. Each time the boat came off a wave the mast pumped and wriggled so much that you could see it changing shape from the tiller. The owner, happy man, was ignorant and oblivious to the danger of losing his rig.

In contrast, if you set up the rig so that it has “prebend”, that is, the center of the mast bends forward when in a static condition, the loaded mast will flex in the proper direction. What flex there is will then tend to flatten the main, rather than bagging it, and the boat should balance better, particularly in heavy air, when most boats start to develop helm problems.

The first job is to get the mast straight athwartships. Leave the lower shrouds hand slack during this procedure. Use the main halyard as a measurer. Take the shackle end of the halyard a measured distance aft of the bow along the gunwale, then have someone take up the slack while you hold the shackle firmly to that point. Cleat off the halyard.

Then take the end of the halyard to the same point on the other side of the boat. If the mast is straight athwartships, the halyard shackle will just kiss the same point on the gunwale on either side of the boat.

Because chainplates are rarely put on perfectly symmetrically on the two sides of the boat, it is best to go to the trouble to measure back from the stemhead on each side for your reference mark, rather than using the chainplates as the reference.

If the halyard doesn’t touch the same point on both sides of the boat, adjust the cap shrouds (upper shrouds) until the mast is straight. Be sure to loosen one side as you tighten the other, and sight up the mast to make sure that you haven’t put any sideways bend in. The sailtrack should be straight athwartships when you sight up the mast, unless it has been put on crooked.

It should be noted that if your deck is slightly crooked -a fairly common problem the mast may not be perfectly centered athwartships in the partners when it is vertical to the hull.

Don’t attempt to make the mast vertical by putting a level on the side of the mast. Almost no boat floats without a list to one side or the other, and your weight alone is enough to put a slight list on a surprisingly large boat.

At this point, on boats up to about 35’, the cap shroud turnbuckles should be hand tight. What’s hand tight? Just what it says: as tight as you can get a well-lubricated turnbuckle with your bare hands. Later, when testing under sail, you’ll find the leeward shrouds slopping around by a few inches; then, and only then, you can take the slack out of the leeward shrouds. If you have absolutely no slack in the leeward capshroud when the boat is going upwind in 1.2 knots of wind, the shrouds are probably too tight for most boats.

Next set the rake of the mast using the fore and back stays, again only hand tight. If you don’t know from experience what the proper rake should be, begin with a modest rake of no more than the fore and aft diameter of the mast. Use the main halyard as a plumb bob. Later you may wish to modify this rake. Utilize the facts that increasing mast rake and/or moving the mast aft increase weather helm,-while decreasing mast rake and/or moving the mast forward decrease weather helm.

Now that the mast is properly straight athwartships and properly raked, it’s time to start the controlled bends. These are accomplished with the forward lowers, babystay, backstay, and mast wedges. Whether your boat has double forward lowers or a single, centerline babystay doesn’t matter. Both systems accomplish the same end.

First, take up the babystay or double forwards until you’ve pulled a forward bend of 1/2” to 1” into the middle section of the mast. Again use the main halyard -this time pulled tight against the lower, aft edge of the mast -as a measuring reference. If using double lowers, make sure the mast remains straight athwartships.

Next crank up on the backstay until you’ve got a curve in the mast equal to 1/2 to 1 times the fore and aft dimensions of the mast. Finally, take up the aft lowers hand tight.

If your mast is stepped on the keel you need at this point to wedge it at the partners. Wooden wedges are easiest to make, but they can dent an aluminum mast if the shrouds are set so loosely that the mast leans to leeward significantly when sailing upwind. A fairly firm rubber wedge works better with looser rigs, and is probably the safest to use. Rubber wedges are usually harder to make, however.

Your boatyard or chandlery may sell special rubber for mast wedges. If not, try to buy something in the nature of thick inner tubing. In a real pinch, sections cut from old auto tires will do, but will have to be rasped to thickness. Don’t use a foam material; it’s too soft. You’ll need two wedges, one fore, one aft. The width of each should be about 35 % to 40% of the mast’s circumference. Thus, they’ll curve around both the front and sides of the mast. Since the rubber wedges must be under compression, their thickness should be slightly greater than the gap they need to fill. You may have to cement together several layers of thin rubber to achieve the proper thicknesses.

The first step in wedging is to trim the wedges so they do not push the mast out of column sideways. As noted earlier, many decks are slightly off center, so there may not be equal space on both sides of the mast, even when it is in the proper position.

When the wedges are properly trimmed for the sides of the partners, you are ready to insert the aft wedge. To support the prebend, put a line around the mast a foot or so above the partners, and run it forward to a fixed point -a snatch block on a mooring cleat or a bridle between the cleats -then aft to a cockpit winch. Now slip the aft wedge into place. Release the load on the line, and insert the forward wedge. A little soap on the wedge will ease a tight fit.

Now you’re ready for a sailing trial.

Choose a day when you can comfortably carry a genoa. About eight to 1 5 knots of wind will do for most boats.

Put the boat hard and full on the wind and check the mast. It should be retaining the same fore and aft curve you put in while tuning. If not, adjust the babystay or forward lower shrouds. Next check the athwartships shape of the mast. It should be straight. Any necessary adjustments should be carried out with the leeward shrouds, then the boat should be tacked to check the effect of the adjustments.

If the mast is straight athwartships, tack and hand tighten all the leeward shrouds by an equal number of turns. If the center of the mast bends to weather, tighten the capshrouds more than the lowers. If the center of the mast sags to leeward, tighten the lower shrouds more than the cap-shrouds.

You should also check the athwart-ships bend of the mast in varying wind strengths, adjusting the aft lowers until you’ve achieved the best compromise between a straight mast and one which falls off or hooks. A masthead which hooks to windward should be avoided.

When, after a few sailing trials, you’re satisfied, pin the turnbuckles, then tape everything that could catch a sail or sheet.

We’ve dealt with what might be called traditionally rigged masts, those with spreaders which sprout essentially at right angles to the mast. Nothing we’ve said, however, isn’t also true of fractional rigs with aft raked spreaders. The only difference is that on such a rig the cap shrouds, as they load up, work on the spreaders to increase forward mast bend, but that’s all to the better.

– J. Pazereskis

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Complete specifications on all Mast Sections are listed below. All Sections are extruded of 6061-T6 Aluminum Alloy, unless otherwise noted. All Sections feature integral etch lines at maximum points to facilitate assembly and hardware attachment. Click on individual Spar Sections , below, for additional specifications, and to see hardware commonly used with those Sections. For more generic parts, see specific categories listed under Kenyon Replacement Parts .

Traditional Mast Sections These are the most common of Kenyon's traditional Oval and Teardrop shaped Mast Sections.   Click on individual Spar Sections , below, for additional specifications, and to see hardware commonly used with those Sections. For more generic parts, see specific categories listed under Kenyon Replacement Parts .

					(in4) (in4) MORC Sections These High Performance Delta Sections were designed to meet the needs of the Midget Ocean Racing Class and are well suited for racing yachts up to 30', the 4060 is also used on a variety of yachts up to 34' LOA. Click on individual Spar Sections, below, for additional specifications, and to see hardware commonly used with those Sections. For more generic parts, see specific categories listed under Kenyon Replacement Parts . (in4) (in4) High Performance Sections Developed for use in multiple spreader rigs, the design characteristics of these High Performance Sections also make them ideal for use as Boom Sections. Click on individual Spar Sections , below, for additional specifications, and to see hardware commonly used with those Sections. For more generic parts, see specific categories listed under Kenyon Replacement Parts . (in4) (in4) Cruising Sections These Sections feature an interchangeable luff track system, which covers a channel designed to secure any electrical wiring. Select from a variety of Cruising Section Luff Tracks (listed below). This system provides easy access to all electrical wires, keeping them from banging around and isolating them from any internal halyard damage, as well as allowing easy conversion of existing masts to different mainsail slide systems. Click on individual Spar Sections , below, for additional specifications, and to see hardware commonly used with those Sections. For more generic parts, see specific categories listed under Kenyon Replacement Parts . (inches - w/o luff track) (in4) (in4) Cruising Section Luff Tracks A variety of slide-in tracks developed for use with Kenyon Cruising Sections. These tracks allow you to customize your new Cruising Section Mast (or easily convert an existing one) for use with a number of different mainsail slide systems. Tracks are extruded from 6061-T6 Aluminum and are available in any length up to the maximum specified. For use with 15/16" flat slides (A008M). Standard length, 25 feet. Weight 0.5 lbs./ft.     For use with 1/2" round slugs (A018, A118) or 1/2"  bolt rope. Standard length, 30 feet.   Flat back cover for use below the gooseneck is cleaner and makes for a better seal at the deck partners on a keel-stepped rig. Standard length, 25 feet. Roller Furling Sections These Sections were designed for use with the Hyde Streamstay One (#9 & #10) solid rod furling system. Hyde, in conjunction with Kenyon, developed special drum and drum cover components optimized for use in these 'Hyde-away' Spar Sections. See Hyde Streamstay One for details on the functioning and components of the furling system. These sections are currently out of production, and are shown here for identification only. See Kenyon Replacement Parts for common replacement items on these Sections. (in4) (in4) Kenyon Boom Sections These sections have aluminum castings for inboard and outboard ends, specifically designed to optimize their use as booms. Designed to be easily installed on the boom ends, many gooseneck and outhaul end fittings have sheaves and control cams for internal outhaul and reef lines. In addition to the standard Boom Sections listed below, Kenyon MORC and High Performance Sections have been used for booms on a number High Performance racing yachts. Although design characteristics of Kenyon MORC and High Performance Sections make them ideal for use as booms on such boats, end fittings for those sections require custom fabrication. All sections are extruded of 6061-T6 Aluminum Alloy, unless otherwise noted. All sections feature integral etch lines at maximum points to facilitate assembly and hardware attachment. Click on individual Spar Sections , below, for additional specifications, and to see hardware commonly used with those Sections. For more generic parts, see specific categories listed under Kenyon Replacement Parts . (in4) (in4) All sections are extruded of 6061-T6 Aluminum Alloy, unless otherwise noted. All sections feature integral etch lines at maximum points to facilitate assembly and hardware attachment. , below, for additional specifications, and to see hardware commonly used with those Sections. For more generic parts, see specific categories listed under . (in4) (in4) Round Spreader Sections Used for various struts as well as spreader sections, all round tubing is of 6063-T5 alloy, and clear anodized unless otherwise noted. utside iameter nside iameter .058 .384 .098 .058 .509 .125 .058 .759 .175 .065 .87 .225 .058 1.009 .229 .125 .875 .472 .109 1.5 .70 Used in dingy spars as well as on various struts and spinnaker poles. All round tubing is of 6063-T5 alloy, and clear anodized unless otherwise noted. See also, Metric Round Tube .   utside iameter nside iameter   .058" .384" .098 .058 .509 .125 .058 .630 .148 .050 .77 .153   .058 .759 .175 .050 .90 .17 .065 .87 .225 .058 1.009 .229 .125 .875 .472 .065 1.12 .285 , .125 1.05 .519 .133 1.12 .285 .065 1.37 .345 , .187 1.12 .911 .109 1.50 .70   .065 1.62 .39 .065 1.745 .43 .065 1.87 .47 .083 1.83 .6 .083 2.084 .665 .083 2.334 .74 .083 2.709 .856 .083 2.835 1.00 .120 3.260 1.50 .120 3.750 1.72 .120 4.260 1.94 ~ Although there have been a continual succession of design and product modifications, virtually all of the original Kenyon Spar Sections are still available. By using the original mast or boom Section you maintain the original integrity of your rig while eliminating any possibility of installation or interface difficulty. If you are missing your Kenyon Spar or have a broken one you have several options. We can supply you with: Identical to your original Kenyon Spar or modified in any manner you desire, we can supply you with a fully assembled mast or boom optimized to meet your needs and guaranteed to fit. For a quote on a replacement spar, please specify boat model and year, including LOA, spar finish (clear anodized, painted, or raw), and which Spar Section you are replacing (see Kenyon Spar Sections). Also be sure to confirm tube length, as there are variations. Kenyon Spars and hardware are sufficiently robust that in most broken mast scenarios, little hardware is damaged besides the mast tube (Section) itself. In most cases Kenyon's simple component construction makes it quick and easy to transfer hardware from a broken mast to a new tube. Finished Sections with factory-milled sailgate, welded masthead, exit boxes, and other cutouts as necessary, are supplied to minimize labor, and mean that drilling holes, and tapping some of them, are all the machining that is required to complete assembly. For a quote on a replacement mast or boom tube, Please specify boat model and year, spar finish (clear anodized, painted or raw), and which Spar Section you are replacing (see Kenyon Spar Sections). Except for the larger one-design classes; frequent changes in boat models, constant design improvements, and numerous other variations, make it impossible for us to know exactly which Spar Sections you have. Be sure to confirm Spar Section and tube length, as there are variations. ~ If you would like a quote on a Kenyon Spar for a boat that was not originally equipped with one, please forward particulars on your boat model, including LOA, displacement, sail plan measurements, and/or previous spar specifications. We will be happy to make equipment recommendations and quote you accordingly. Kit includes all hardware, fasteners, and finished, machined tube. Finished tubes with factory-milled sailgate, welded masthead, exit boxes, and other cutouts as necessary, are supplied to minimize labor, and mean that drilling holes, and tapping some of them, are all the machining that is required to complete assembly. Have fun, save money, and get to know your spar system. Please forward particulars on your boat model, including LOA, displacement, sail plan measurements, and/or previous spar specifications. We will be happy to make equipment recommendations and quote you accordingly. ~ Although Kenyon's long history has shown a continual succession of design changes and product modifications, and seen many thousands of different parts, most all Kenyon Spar parts, or upgrades, are still available. To find the part you need, first, determine which Mast, Boom, or Spreader Section the part attaches to (see , , or ). Then, click on that Section. Descriptions, specifications, and, in many cases photos are displayed there. Except for the larger one-design classes; frequent changes in boat models, constant design improvements, and numerous other variations, make it impossible for us to know exactly which Spar Sections you have on your boat, and what parts you need. are not specific to any particular Spar Section, and have their own pages listed below. on the Spars Main Page. If a part you require is listed on-site, please forward a sketch and a complete description of the part, or its nearest equivalent on the website, and its measurements, including which Mast, Boom, or Spreader Section the part attaches to. , . Also be sure to specify boat model, including LOA, and year of manufacture.  ~ Although most production boats go through a variety of System and Hardware Vendors during their production run, a small number of One-Design Classes have adhered to strict regulations to provide a high level of uniformity in Hardware Systems, regardless of a boats' age. For these boats it is possible to put together a list of replacement parts that require a minimum of measurements to accurately identify. If a part you require is not listed, please contact us with full details. . ~ We now have technical data and descriptions of all common Kenyon Spar Sections and Parts on-site. If you need a replacement part for your Kenyon Spar, it is most likely listed here with a complete description and Part Number. , . , you will need Part Numbers. , See . Please include all details, including boat model, length, and year of manufacture. Except for the larger one-design classes; frequent changes in boat models, constant design improvements, and numerous other variations, . If your questions are about your existing Mast, Boom, or Spreaders, . If a part you require is listed on-site, please forward a sketch and a complete description of the part, or its nearest equivalent on the website, and its measurements, including which Mast, Boom, or Spreader Section the part attaches to. (see , , or ). , See . , you will need Part Numbers. ~ Back to Spars Main Page ~ Practical Boat Owner Digital edition Hoisting and lowering the mainsail: troubleshooting problems David Harding September 9, 2024 What can you do if your mainsail is hard to hoist or reluctant to drop? David Harding offers some advice It might be seen as racing practice, but hoisting at the mast and tailing from the cockpit reduces friction and can make life a lot easier Earlier this year, I was sailing with a friend on a boat he was thinking of buying . On the way back in, as you do, we put the sails away: we rolled away the headsails (it was a cutter) and lowered the mainsail and mizzen (it was also a ketch).  At least, we tried to lower the mizzen. Motoring directly into a gentle breeze , we released the halyard and the head came down a couple of feet. Then it stopped. The sail was tiny; barely larger than that of a small dinghy . It had little roach and was fitted with ordinary plastic slides – only they didn’t want to slide, even when I stood on top of the wheelhouse and pulled down on the luff. There was only one quick answer: I had to shin up the mast, stand on the spreaders , reach up and work the slides down. When you’re bouncing around out at sea, you don’t want to find yourself struggling to lower the mainsail. All photos credit David Harding A few weeks later I had to go up to the hounds on a 12m (40ft) performance cruiser because the roller-reefing headsail had jammed halfway in. It was a straightforward temporary fix with a lashing – ‘straightforward’ being a relative term when you’re bouncing around up there – but twice in half a season for that sort of thing is unusual. It makes you think about what you would do in situations when you’re not able to go aloft. Returning to our ketch, shinning up the mizzen under any circumstances would not have been an option for the prospective owner or his wife. Being stuck with a sail that won’t come down is potentially dangerous. And the mainsail on this boat wasn’t much better: it only dropped about halfway on its own. The angled pull of the halyard means that the head of a sail will often need to be fitted with a car that can take the compression Significantly, both sails had gone up without too much grunt but, as is often the case with mainsails (or other sails hoisted up a groove in the back of a mast), what goes up doesn’t always come down quite so readily. You’re working against gravity one way and friction the other. Sometimes on the hoist, you’re fighting both gravity and friction. And on the drop, as we’ve seen, friction can all too readily overcome gravity. That the sails on some boats don’t go up and down quickly and easily is something that owners often learn to live with: they just winch a bit harder on the way up, pull a bit harder on the way down, or learn to compensate somehow. That’s OK most of the time, but work-arounds are not really the answer. More often than not, you’re hoisting and lowering sails in confined waters with other boats around and plenty of distractions too. That’s when you really don’t need any snags. How the mainsail works In principle, it all sounds simple enough. The mast-maker makes the mast with a groove in the back. The sailmaker puts slides on the sail that fi t in the groove, and away you go. In the case of a wooden mast, the track is fitted to the back. One problem is the number of different sections of luff groove. If you buy a new European production cruiser in the UK, chances are it will have a mast made by Seldén, Z Spars or Sparcraft, though there are others. They all have different grooves so, if you’re buying a new sail for a secondhand boat, you need to make sure the sailmaker fits the right slides. Four mast sections, four different luff grooves – and there are many more If he doesn’t, keep a monkey on board or have the bosun’s chair at the ready. The worrying thing is that even new or nearly-new boats can have problems if the sailmaker and spar-maker either haven’t spoken to each other or if the builder has asked the sailmaker for the cheapest possible set of sails (yes, it happens) and they’re fitted with hardware that’s not up to the job. The ketch with the troublesome mizzen was only a few years old and had hardly been sailed. When I asked the sailmaker, he replied that it had all worked when he fitted the sails, though many aspects of the sails and sail-handling systems were a complete dog’s breakfast. If you’re ordering a new sail, whether for a new(ish) boat or an older one, the sailmaker will need to know the make and the age of the mast. Well-established lofts run by people who have been in the business for a long time will probably recognise most mast sections from a photograph. Some have copies of spar-makers’ literature and technical drawings going back decades, which can be invaluable. If you’re dealing with a new kid on the block who takes the order and gets the sails made on the far side of the world, you will want to satisfy yourself before parting with any money. Mainsail troubleshooting: Sliding and rolling So far we have talked about ‘slides’ in general terms. In practice, the parts that slide up and down the mast range from simple plastic slugs with no moving parts, as typically found on short-batten sails and between the battens on fully battened sails, via the long-established Rutgerson roller slides to cars with ball bearings that run on external tracks. These are designed to take the compressive loads of large mainsails with full-length battens and lots of roach. The type of slides or cars you have on your sail will depend on its size, the roach and the number of battens, among other factors. You should discuss this with your sailmaker. Slugs, slides and rollers of all descriptions – but which one will fit? Especially with full-length battens, the linkage between the slider/car and the luff of the sail is also important, both to ensure that the luff is kept the right distance from the mast in between the battens and that compression when the sail is being lowered doesn’t cause jams – which it often does. With fully-battened sails becoming increasingly popular, choosing the appropriate hardware is vital. But bear in mind that cars that will fit the mast won’t necessarily fit through the gate at the bottom of the luff groove. The gate might have to be changed. You will probably also need to have mast-gate surgery if changing from a mainsail with a bolt-rope, which calls for a luff-feeder and a simple entry to the groove some way up the mast, to a sail with slides. Mainsail troubleshooting. Overcoming friction: the hoist Check your slides. If they’re the wrong ones or simply not up to spec, you’re fighting a losing battle. Clean the luff groove An accumulation of dirt and debris will increase friction. Clean the groove with a cloth and soapy water. Crusader Sails suggests feeding a knotted J Cloth into the groove through the gate. Using a J Cloth and soapy water to clean the luff groove can make a big difference Attach a halyard, not forgetting a downhaul too, and run it up and down. It’s probably best not to follow up the cleaning by using lubricants. With the right slides/cars and a clean luff groove, they shouldn’t be necessary and can simply attract more dirt. Check your masthead sheave If the rig was designed for a wire halyard, the masthead sheave will probably be aluminium on a stainless steel pin. Over the years the reaction between the two metals will quite possibly jam the sheave. When did you last check your halyard sheave? Changing it will usually mean lowering the mast Changing the sheave will usually mean lowering the mast. Old Tufnol sheaves often keep working longer. A halyard can also jam after coming off a sheave. Hoist at the mast For the past few decades, it has become the norm for halyards to be led aft so they can be handled from the cockpit. This means the halyard goes from the head of the sail, around the masthead sheave, back down and out of the mast, through a block on deck, probably through a deck organiser and then back to a clutch on the aft end of the coachroof. The 180° turn around the masthead sheave is unavoidable, but the additional turns necessary to lead a halyard aft will inevitably add friction. As Paul Lees of Crusader points out, friction throughout the path of the halyard isn’t just cumulative; it multiplies in the same way that a purchase does. So three friction points plus another three mean you’re working against a friction factor of nine, not six. Racing crews jump halyards at the mast for many reasons, usually with someone else tailing in the cockpit. While some cruising folk might baulk at the idea of adopting what they see as racing practice, this method has much in its favour if you have two people aboard. As long as the halyard’s exit sheave on the mast is above head-height, one of the crew sweats the halyard while the other takes up the slack through the clutch. If you have never tried it this way, you might be surprised how much easier it is. Should the halyard’s exit sheave be at deck level, however, this isn’t going to work. It might be worth having it moved. Even if you’re single-handed, you can hoist at the mast through a clutch, then close the clutch and take up the tail from the cockpit. Check your hardware If you habitually hoist from the cockpit, it’s worth making sure that friction between the halyard’s exit sheave and the winch is minimised by replacing any blocks and organisers that are old and tired. New ball-bearing blocks will make a vast difference – and they will help on the drop too. Check your halyard Ropes become harder and stiffer through exposure to dirt, salt, UV light and being under tension over the years. Lines become harder and stiffer with age. Replacing your halyards might be part of the answer That means they won’t turn corners so freely and will also be harder to handle. Check your winches If you’re still having problems hoisting from the cockpit, think about the winching. Working under a sprayhood can make it awkward to swing a winch handle efficiently. Has the halyard winch been serviced recently? Do you have space for a longer handle? Would a self-tailer help? (Almost certainly, for a price.) Do you simply need the power of a bigger winch? Would an electric winch be the answer? Or how about an electric winch handle , such as the one made by WinchRite? Electric halyard winches need to be treated with caution: pulling the headboard out of the mainsail is not a good idea. Do not pull the slack out of your reefing pennants! It can be tempting to tension the reef pennants after dropping the sail, but hoisting again will be much easier if you don’t Do not pull reefing pennants through the boom to take up the slack once the sail is stowed. Leave them loose and just tuck them inside the sail. If you pull them through, you have all that friction to work against when next hoisting the sail, especially with an endless or single-line system. The casting at the end of the boom, and the sheaves that it houses for the outhaul and reefing pennants, are often too narrow for the diameter of the line anyway. Don’t make life harder for yourself. Fit a 2:1 halyard Some boats with large, heavily roached, fully-battened sails use 2:1 halyards. The purchase reduces the load and, therefore, the stretch on the halyard (which can be of smaller diameter). Leading halyards aft means extra hardware, so make sure it’s good quality to minimise friction when raising or lowering the mainsail There’s less load on the clutch too. Hoisting will take up to twice as long and you will need a much longer halyard, so 2:1 systems are not widely used on smaller cruising yachts; nor should they be necessary. The potential perils of adding power If your mainsail is hard to hoist, look first at ways of reducing friction. Increasing hoisting power to overcome avoidable friction is not the best solution. An electric winch handle, like this one by WinchRite, won’t remove friction on the hoist but might help overcome it When the skipper of one large yacht applied the power of its hydraulics to hoist a recalcitrant mainsail, the masthead sheave and pin came down from aloft like a missile. They took a chunk out of the deck and would have killed anyone standing in their way. Overcoming friction: the drop Most of the steps you take to reduce friction on the hoist will also help on the drop. But when the halyard is released rather than pulling the sail up, different factors come into play. The luff tends to be pushed into the back of the mast, for example, particularly with full-length battens, so the type of cars/slides and the attachment between them and the batten box become critical. If a sail is awkward to lower at the best of times, it might be nigh-on impossible if it has to come down under less-than-ideal circumstances, such as with the wind on the beam Fitting a downhaul line attached to the head can help, especially if you find yourself in a situation where you have to pull the sail down with the wind abaft the beam, for example. One fundamental point is to ensure the halyard is totally free to run. Once a sail starts to come down, make it easy for it to gather momentum and drop all the way. The smoothest solutions A conventional short-batten sail might be fine with ordinary plastic slides. Or, depending on its size and other factors, it might not. That’s where a different system can bring about a transformation. Here are some examples. Seldén MDS and OWS cars Some time ago now, Seldén changed their mast sections, increasing the chord (fore-and-aft measurement) and, at the same time, modifying the luff groove to accommodate a new type of car: the MDS (multi-directional support). Seldén’s MDS slides have six wheels running inside the mast groove to counter loads from any direction It has six wheels, all inside the luff groove, the idea being that they will continue to run smoothly from whatever direction the load is coming from. Before the MDS, the OWS (outer wheel sliders) cars had four wheels running on the aft face of the mast. External tracks and cars Harken, Ronstan and Facnor supply ball-bearing cars that run on tracks bolted to the back of the mast. This is Facnor’s track system with ball-bearing cars – low friction, but not an inexpensive solution These are well-established and a good way to minimise friction, but they add weight and are not cheap. Tides Marine Despite having been around for over 20 years, Tides Marine ’s SailTrack system has remained a remarkably well-kept secret. I only came across it when Jim Macgregor was fitting it to his Elan 40 as part of his racer-to-cruiser conversion. I then suggested that the owner of the ketch mentioned at the start of this article fit it for both mainsail and mizzen. Tides Marine’s SailTrack system with the stainless steel slides makes raising and lowering the mainsail easier Essentially it’s a plastic track, supplied in one length, that simply slides up the luff groove. It’s a fraction of the weight and cost of an external track and quicker and easier to fit, especially as the whole job can be completed from deck level. Stainless steel slides run up and down the track, with no moving parts involved. A conventional external track-and car system might work with larger mainsails, but I heard recently of a Tides Marine system being used successfully on a 14m (47ft) Dazcat, so it will certainly cater for most people. PBO conclusion If you’re having a new sail made, ask what hardware your sailmaker recommends and why. If your existing sail is giving you grief, looking at the points raised in this feature should help. Or perhaps your halyards are crossed inside the mast. Some of the solutions will cost you a J Cloth and a squirt of soap. Others will cost a little more, but quite possibly less than you might imagine. As we’re dealing with sailing boats, it could be argued that the ability to set and strike your canvas quickly and efficiently is fundamental for convenience, comfort and safety. How to rig a spinnaker on a small yacht – what you need and where to fit it If you want a spinnaker, but don’t have the necessary fittings or equipment on your boat, where do you start?… Sail trim: Sailing downwind without a spinnaker Sailing efficiently when the wind comes astern doesn’t mean you have to fly a spinnaker or cruising chute. David Harding… Mainsail trimming in light airs How to go to windward fast Heaving to: a question of balance How tricky is heaving to, and how much does it vary from boat to boat? We tried four different hull… Want to read more practical articles like Hoisting and lowering the mainsail: troubleshooting problems? A subscription to Practical Boat Owner magazine costs around 40% less than the cover price . Print and digital editions are available through Magazines Direct – where you can also find the latest deals . PBO is packed with information to help you get the most from boat ownership – whether sail or power. Take your DIY skills to the next level with trusted advice on boat maintenance and repairs Impartial in-depth gear reviews Practical cruising tips for making the most of your time afloat Follow us on Facebook , Instagram, TikTok and Twitter Boat Reviews Industry Directory Accessories Inside the America’s Cup: A Closer Look at AC75 Masts & Rigging As the Round Robins progress and Barcelona delivers, the AC75 fleet is looking fast. Whether it’s the return of the cyclors, enhanced foil designs, aero improvements, or more advanced control systems, a range of technical innovations are frequently cited as the reason for driving this impressive performance. In this respect, one area that may have received less attention is the rig and rigging design. Yet, especially since the arrival of composite materials in the America’s Cup, it’s an area that has had a formative impact on how things play out on the water. Southern Spars has played a leading role since entering the America’s Cup fold in 1995, with the supply of Team New Zealand ’s innovative high-performance carbon mast that took them to a historic victory. Southern Spars’ sister company , Future Fibres , is also increasingly central to the trajectory of composite innovation in the Cup . Class Rules AC75 class rules specify several key one design aspects of mast design and construction. They stipulate the shape (D-section) and the size (within a tolerance) of the mast tube. The Rule also dictate s the required carbon fibre specification, including the fibre modulus, a real weight, and resin content. Additionally, the geometry and material s of the fittings, such as shrouds and spreaders, mast rotation restriction to 45°, and the height of the mast rotation ball relative to the waterline are all defined by the rule. Mast R otation Through c ontrolling the 45° mast rotation , each team has at their disposal a mechanism to access enhanced power and performance. All AC37 participants have selected North Sails as their best option such is the compelling performance of the North Sails Helix structured luff technology, which has redefined what a sail can deliver —its internal structure enhancing power potential by controlling the load s through the sail structure , delivering a proactive, positive sail shape. With a mast designed to react to the conditions by rotat ing to the exact degree needed to exploit every breath of wind and realis e the sail shape intended by the team’s sail designers, the benefits of Helix are taken to the extreme. You could almost say that the masts on AC75s have become part of the sail or the other way around, and it feels like the lines are blurring between the essential elements of the engine above deck. Thickness and Stiffness Another way masts influence sail shape is, of course, mast bend. This is the stand-out area where teams can differentiate their masts to influence performance. W hile the D-spar minimum laminate and core details are specified under AC37 c lass rules , teams are free to add more laminate if they choose to. There is always weight to performance trade-offs , but there is scope within the teams to increase the overall stiffness of the mast, or to alter the deflection response — optimising it to suit the desired degree of mast bend that the team’s sail designers are calling for. No Backstay While the rigging for AC37 is a fully one-design   “supplied” component from by Future Fibres, identical onboard each AC75, some significant changes have been made to the rigging packages since the 36 th America’s Cup . One talking point is the elimination of the backstay, which also has a knock-on effect o n the wider engine above deck. Mast bend, which would conventionally be influenced by backstay control, is now almost solely manged by sail controls. Another knock-on effect is escalating load through the shrouds, which ha s required the cap shroud s to be enlarged and jib locks to be upgraded from 5t to 8t for this edition of the cup . One constant though, and a s per the AC 36 rule, the Future Fibres rigging package s are equipped with integrated fibre optic load monitoring, for performance analysis and to keep an eye on loading limits. Looking Ahead Beyond the talking points we have summarised here – luff tracks, batten stiffness, batten location s , halyard locks and mainsail controls – all sit within the remit of team designers. It remains to be seen which technical factors will rise to the surface during the 37 th America’s Cup, but it is a safe bet that ripple effects from technological choices and innovations will be felt around the wider sailing landscape in the coming years. General Manager of Southern Spars, Mark Hauser comments, “We  are immensely proud of our close partnerships with the teams and together we commit ourselves entirely to the pursuit of excellence. I nnovation in the Cup reverberate s around the industry for years the regatta and we are proud to be leading the charge with the world’s most elite sailing teams.” Related Articles This conversation is moderated by Boating New Zealand. Subscribe to view comments and join the conversation. 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Boating New Zealand's essential guide to boating in New Zealand. -- Advertisement -- Advertise with Boating New Zealand -- Subscribe -- Subscribe with Boating New Zealand boating weekly Join Thousands of New Zealand Boating Enthusiasts! Exclusive deals, boat reviews, sports coverage, stories, and our best tips for NZ boaters ⏤ free and straight to your inbox. Events Worth Adding to Your Calendar Have an event you'd like to list on Boating New Zealand. Contact us with the details. COMING EVENTS Catch all the action of the Louis Vuitton 37th America's Cup , happening from 22 Aug to 27 Oct 2024 in Barcelona, Spain. Follow along with excitement at Boating New Zealand . 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Masts, Sails & Rigging Sailboat mast and rigging stock image. Image of sail, tall Sailboat rigging at base of mast Stock Photo Sailboat Rigging and Big Mast Stock Photo VIDEO Finn Sailboat rigging basics: mast rake A Coastal Recreation Aquarius 23 named "The Hobbit", sailboat Rigging & Lights on LO-KEE #8 (02-10-15) Rigging to Sail: Core Sound 20 stepping the mast Rigging a sailboat, Snipe pt 2 08 COMMENTS How to Tune a Sailboat Mast 1. Check by sighting up the backside of the mast to see how straight your spar is side to side. You can take a masthead halyard from side to side to ensure that the masthead is on center. Do this by placing a wrap of tape 3′ up from the upper chainplate pin hole on each upper shroud. Cleat the halyard and pull it to the tape mark on one side ... Rig-Rite Inc. Since 1961, RIG-RITE has engineered, manufactured and distributed Spars, Rigging and Hardware Systems for Sailboats. RIG-RITE stocks the largest variety of related Systems and Hardware available anywhere, Specializing in original replacement parts for Systems on yachts built the world over. Spars - Masts, Booms, Spreaders, Spinnaker Poles ... Dwyer Mast & Rigging Dwyer Mast & Rigging manufactures high-quality sailboat masts, booms, hardware, and rigging. Originally founded in 1963 as Dwyer Aluminum Mast Company, the legacy continues as an OEM supplier by taking advantage of improved manufacturing methods to offer a wide range of products and services for the marine industry. The Standing Rigging On A Sailboat Explained The difference between standing rigging and running rigging. Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly: The rig or rigging on a sailboat is a common term for two parts:. The standing rigging consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the ... Rigging for beginners # 1. Sailboat rigging explained from standing PLEASE NOTE: THIS VIDEO HAS BEEN UPDATED WITH ENHANCED GRAPHICS AND IMPROVED SOUND. CHECK IT OUT HERE https://youtu.be/tRgWtPaCQQcA beginners guide to sailbo... Replacing Your Sailboat Rigging Good question. Yes, doing it yourself will theoretically save money. For an average 40-foot boat, Cockerill estimates about $100 per foot to re-rig with wire rigging ($4,000), as well as the round-trip cost to haul and launch the boat and unstep and step the rig (an additional $2,500 or so). Sailboat Rigging: A Guide to Achieve Smooth Sailing Bliss Secondly, sailboat rigging is crucial for safety. A well-rigged sailboat ensures that the mast, rigging components, and sails are secure and can withstand the forces of wind and waves. It minimizes the risk of equipment failure, such as broken masts or snapped rigging, which can lead to accidents or stranded situations on the water. Boat Rigging: A Comprehensive Guide to Ensure Smooth Sailing 06. 2024. In the world of sailing, boat rigging plays a crucial role in ensuring the safety, efficiency, and performance of your vessel. From standing rigging to sail rigging types, it's essential to understand the intricacies of rigging a yacht to embark on smooth sailing adventures. In this comprehensive guide, we'll dive into the nuances of ... Sailboat Masts Explained: From Basics to Repairs Yacht Masts: Designed for grandeur, these masts are equipped to handle multiple heavy sails, sophisticated rigging systems, and the weight and balance demands of a large vessel. Sailboat Masts: Engineered for agility, they prioritize speed, wind optimization, and quick adjustments. Maintenance, Repairs, and the Importance of Both. Inspecting, Maintaining and Replacing Standing Rigging Aug 14, 2015. It's one of the most important features on a sailboat, but many owners put standing rigging at the back of their minds when it comes time to do their pre-season safety checks. A prudent sailor should inspect his or her standing rig at least once each season and should know when the time comes to replace most or all of it. Standing Rigging (or 'Name That Stay') A sailboat's standing rigging is generally built from wire rope, rod, or occasionally a super-strong synthetic fibered rope such as Dyneema ®, carbon fiber, kevlar or PBO. 1×19 316 grade stainless steel Wire Rope (1 group of 19 wires, very stiff with low stretch) is standard on most sailboats. Wire rope is sized/priced by its diameter which ... Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures) The rig consists of the sail and mast hardware. The sail rig and sail type are both part of the sail plan. We usually use the sail rig type to refer to the type of boat. Let's start by taking a look at the most commonly used modern sail rigs. Don't worry if you don't exactly understand what's going on. At the end of this article, you'll ... Revive Your Mast Like a Pro A sailboat mast is like a long electrical fuse: one bad spot and the show is over. Critical failures are usually linked to standing rigging failures and can occur at toggle or tang attachment points, on the spar itself or at spreader tips and roots. Upper shroud tang fittings, near the masthead, need a close look. The Running Rigging On A Sailboat Explained The standing rigging consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing. Check out my guide on standing rigging here! The running rigging consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate and control the sails on a sailboat which we will explore in ... Know-how: Modern Rigs 101 Standing rigging is the collective term for the system of wires (or rods) that supports the mast, both fore-and-aft and laterally. Lateral stays are known as shrouds and each has its own name (see diagram). The "shroud angle" is the angle between the mast and the cap shroud, typically never less than 12 degrees. How to Inspect and Tune a Sailboat Rig However, if your sailboat's mast is deck-stepped, make sure the coachroof isn't deforming due to the compression load. A compression post, ring frame or other rigid structure should be spreading such loads. If you're unsure of the correct rig tune, arrange a session with a rigger or sailmaker—and start the season in optimized trim. Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams) The running rigging is the rigging on a sailboat that's used to operate the sails. For example, the halyard, which is used to lower and heave the mainsail. The standing rigging is the rigging that is used to support the mast and sail plan. Standing Rigging. Here are the different parts that belong to the standing rigging: Sailboat Rigging: Blocking and Sealing the Mast Partners Pulling the mast sideways. On our J/35, the mast is stepped belowdecks and must be supported and sealed at the partners. The best way to do this with any mast is by using a pourable rubber called Spartite. With that system, you install the mast, get it positioned perfectly, create a dam with foam and clay at the bottom of the gap between the ... Mast Stepped: A Comprehensive Guide to Properly Installing and Additionally, inspecting both your boat's standing rigging and mast itself for any signs of damage or wear is crucial for safety and optimal performance during future sailing endeavors. Step 2: Clearing obstructions In order to safely step your mast onto your sailboat's deck, make sure that all potential obstructions are removed. Check for ... Standing rigging Standing rigging comprises the fixed lines, wires, or rods, which support each mast or bowsprit on a sailing vessel and reinforce those spars against wind loads transferred from the sails. This term is used in contrast to running rigging, which represents the moveable elements of rigging which adjust the position and shape of the sails. Boat Clinic: Tuning the Masthead Rig Tuning the rig of a boat is one of the necessary -and pleasant -tasks which must be done to achieve good performance. In an untuned boat, the mast bends in odd ways, and this in turn causes the sails to set badly. By contrast, on a well tuned boat, the rig bends in a controlled fashion, allowing the sails to do their best.For this reason, an avid racer will be constantly fiddling with the tune ... Inside the America's Cup: A closer look at AC75 masts and rigging Another way masts influence sail shape is, of course, mast bend. This is the stand-out area where teams can differentiate their masts to influence performance. While the D-spar minimum laminate and core details are specified under AC37 class rules, teams are free to add more laminate if they choose to. ... While the rigging for AC37 is a fully ... Calculating mast and rigging In the second case the rig is loaded by a deep reefed main sail (very harsh weather conditions are assumed). First Case : The transverse force is independent of the shape of the sail to be used and will be simply the righting moment divided by the distance between the water line and where is fixed the forestay to the mast. T1 = RM/a1 fig.6 Kenyon Spars Main Page In its over 40-year production history, Kenyon has built spars for every type of sailboat from 7 to 70 feet LOA, and Kenyon has provided OEM spar and rigging packages to virtually every North American boat builder. Kenyon has built more spars than any other spar manufacturer in the U.S. In addition to building new spars, Kenyon is committed to ... Hoisting and lowering the mainsail: troubleshooting problems In principle, it all sounds simple enough. The mast-maker makes the mast with a groove in the back. The sailmaker puts slides on the sail that fi t in the groove, and away you go. In the case of a wooden mast, the track is fitted to the back. One problem is the number of different sections of luff groove. Inside the America's Cup: A Closer Look at AC75 Masts & Rigging Southern Spars has played a leading role since entering the America's Cup fold in 1995, with the supply of Team New Zealand 's innovative high-performance carbon mast that took them to a historic victory. Southern Spars' sister company, Future Fibres, is also increasingly central to the trajectory of composite innovation in the Cup.. Class Rules. AC75 class rules specify several key one ... catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht