steel hull sailboat review

Sailboat Hulls: Steel Vs Fiberglass

For decades, sailors and boat owners have been having hotly contested debates about the merits of steel hulls vs fiberglass hulls in sailboats.

The major benefits of boats with steel hulls are that they are very strong, durable, and can be repaired easily. On the other hand, a fiberglass hull offers your boat a smooth and sleek look that is very pleasing. They are also lighter, faster, and require less maintenance than steel boats.

Whether you are building your own sailboat or thinking of buying one, getting the right material for the hull is of paramount importance. Your choice of material should depend on consideration of multiple factors, including its durability, stability, maintenance, repairs, weight, comfort, safety, and cost.

We have a team of sailing experts who have spent decades on the water and have set sail on boats built of all types of materials available. So who better to walk you through the pros and cons of steel and fiberglass hulls?

Table of contents

‍ Steel Hull vs Fiberglass Hull: Top 10 Factors to Consider

Let us take a look at some of the major factors that can help you determine whether a boat with a steel hull or fiberglass hull will be a better choice for you.

Sailboats with steel hulls are much more durable and stronger than those with fiberglass hulls. Steel sailboats have a more rigid structure and are quite robust so they can better understand grazes, rubs, and bumps when out in the open water.

In case of impact, a steel hull will bend and may become dented; however, a fiberglass hull has a higher possibility of breaking. That’s because steel is more ductile and can withstand strong blows without losing its toughness.

Fiberglass is a lighter material than steel, making  fiberglass boats  lighter. Many people prefer this quality since it means that the boat will travel faster on water and will require less power and wind energy to move than a boat with a steel hull. This means lower fuel consumption and more savings. However, a fiberglass boat will be more prone to be buffeted by the winds since it is lighter.

Anti-Corrosion Properties

The sailboat manufacturing industry now uses state-of-the-art technology and makes use of the best quality materials to make the hull. Steel corrodes when exposed to the atmosphere. However, if the right alloy is used for making the hull, it will resist saltwater corrosion, without even needing special paint.

Steel boats also experience electrolytic or galvanic corrosion, but they can be avoided with the use of insulated electrical connections and sacrificial anodes.

Fiberglass does not corrode. However, it can still suffer from osmosis if the fiberglass had air bubbles at the time of lamination. This can cause water to collect in the void, forming blisters that can weaken the hull. Fiberglass may also become damaged from ultraviolet radiation.

Since steel boats are heavier than fiberglass boats, it means they are more stable on the sea, particularly if you experience choppy waters. A fiberglass boat, on the other hand, is lighter, and hence sailors may experience a rougher journey on choppy waters.

In addition, due to its extra weight, steel boats drift slower and more predictably, which is particularly useful for anglers.

Maintenance

Many steel boats require greater maintenance since they are more prone to corrosion. Galvanic corrosion can occur when two different metals are placed together. Hence, it is important that you ensure that high-quality materials, joints, and screws are used on the hull. It is important to rinse the hull with fresh water once it is out of the sea.

Fiberglass boat hulls do not have welds and rivets and you do not need to worry about the hull rusting. However, it can experience osmosis issues, which can cause serious problems if they are not treated in time.

Both fiberglass and steel boats require antifouling application to prevent barnacles, algae, and other sea organisms from sticking to the hull. However, antifouling can be more expensive for steel boats.

It is easy to repair small dents in steel boats. However, if the damage is extensive, it can be more complicated and costly to repair or replace large sections of steel hulls. Welding a boat hull is a specialized job that requires trained professionals.

It is easier to repair a broken fiberglass hull, but it may never have the same strength and durability as the original hull since the structural tension will not be equal at all points.

Fiberglass boats are made of petroleum-based products that are flammable. Hence, in case of a fire, they will burn easily and quickly. A steel boat is much safer since it cannot burn. In addition, a significant impact from an unidentified floating object can result in a breach in a fiberglass hull easily and open up a waterway into the boat that can cause it to sink. Steel, on the other hand, can withstand larger impacts without compromising the integrity of the boat.

Steel boats operate much louder than fiberglass boats, especially in turbulent seas at high speed. Steel is also a good conductor of heat and if it is not well-insulated during construction, it can become uncomfortably warm in the summer and cold in the winter. On the other hand, boats with fiberglass hulls do not transmit heat well and are more comfortable.

When it comes to aesthetic appeal, fiberglass hulls have a sleeker, shinier, and more polished look. Steel hulls often have marks of reinforcements on their hulls and they need to get a nice paint to look good. In most cases, steel hulls are covered with putty to hide any construction defects. This putty should be polished so that the boat has a nice finish and is done in a controlled environment to keep out dust.

As you can imagine, this process is complex, costly, and drives up the price of the boat.

It is easier to manufacture fiberglass hulls and mold them into more complex shapes. This can lead to faster production and lower construction costs. Sailboats with steel hulls are more expensive, as we mentioned before because  they require welding, heavy-duty grinding , and specialized cutting tools and are more labor-intensive.

When Should You Choose a Steel Boat?

Steel hulls are stronger, durable, and more impact-resistant than their fiberglass counterparts. Dents in steel hulls can be repaired easily and although steel is prone to corrosion, this can be managed by special paints, insulation, and some regular maintenance.

If you are deciding on a circumnavigation or want to go out on a long spree in the water, you need a solid and dependable boat that you can rely on when you venture into new territories.

A well-maintained sailboat gives you the confidence to enter into unfamiliar rocky coasts and reduce your worries about hitting UFOs. However, keep in mind that steel boats may be slower than fiberglass boats, particularly if they are smaller vessels.

When Should You Choose a Fiberglass Boat?

Fiberglass boats are generally prettier than steel boats since they have a smooth and polished hull. They also do not require protective paint on their hull since they are corrosion-free and hence quite low maintenance. In addition, they are lighter and faster than their steel counterparts and do not cost as much.

However, one big concern of a fiberglass hull is that it is not as strong as a steel hull. If the boat hits a hard object, the fiberglass may break, which can be dangerous on the open seas, particularly in choppy waters.

Still, fiberglass boats are an excellent option for racing and even long-distance cruising in areas that do not have sharp rocks.

The type of sailboat you choose depends on your sailing style and your needs. So make sure you consider all the factors before you invest in a steel or fiberglass boat.

Related Articles

Types of Sailboat Hulls

What Is a Sailboat Hull?

Jacob Collier

Born into a family of sailing enthusiasts, words like “ballast” and “jibing” were often a part of dinner conversations. These days Jacob sails a Hallberg-Rassy 44, having covered almost 6000 NM. While he’s made several voyages, his favorite one is the trip from California to Hawaii as it was his first fully independent voyage.

by this author

Learn About Sailboats

Most Recent

What Does "Sailing By The Lee" Mean?

Daniel Wade

October 3, 2023

The Best Sailing Schools And Programs: Reviews & Ratings

September 26, 2023

Important Legal Info

Lifeofsailing.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon. This site also participates in other affiliate programs and is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies.

Similar Posts

Affordable Sailboats You Can Build at Home

September 13, 2023

Best Small Sailboat Ornaments

September 12, 2023

Discover the Magic of Hydrofoil Sailboats

December 11, 2023

Popular Posts

Best Liveaboard Catamaran Sailboats

December 28, 2023

Can a Novice Sail Around the World?

Elizabeth O'Malley

June 15, 2022

4 Best Electric Outboard Motors

How Long Did It Take The Vikings To Sail To England?

10 Best Sailboat Brands (And Why)

December 20, 2023

7 Best Places To Liveaboard A Sailboat

Get the best sailing content.

Top Rated Posts

© 2024 Life of Sailing Email: [email protected] Address: 11816 Inwood Rd #3024 Dallas, TX 75244 Disclaimer Privacy Policy

Steel Sailboats: The Ultimate Guide

Introduction:.

Embarking on a voyage of exploration, where the horizon stretches endlessly before you, requires a vessel that embodies the spirit of adventure. Enter steel sailboats, the rugged champions of the maritime world. In this article, we delve into the exhilarating pros and cons of steel hull sailboats, revealing their unmatched potential for daring adventurers and their ability to conquer the most treacherous waters on Earth.

Pros of Steel Sailboats:

Unyielding Strength:

When it comes to traversing untamed waters, the formidable strength of steel hulls becomes your most trusted ally. These vessels fearlessly navigate through icy Arctic fjords, daringly cut through gales of the roaring Southern Ocean, and elegantly glide across tropical lagoons. With their robust construction, steel hull sailboats provide unparalleled resilience against the elements, instilling unwavering confidence in explorers.

Conqueror of Varied Terrain:

Steel hull sailboats are versatile workhorses of the seas. They can gracefully sail through oceanic expanses, weave their way through winding rivers, and venture into shallow coastal areas inaccessible to other vessels. Whether you yearn for the wild isolation of remote islands or the tranquil beauty of hidden coves, a steel hull sailboat will carry you there, unveiling breathtaking vistas that remain hidden to those with lesser means.

Guardian of Safety and Security:

As an explorer, your peace of mind is paramount, and steel hull sailboats excel in providing just that. Their solid steel armor shields you from the unexpected perils lurking beneath the surface. From the menacing jaws of sharks to the unpredictability of floating debris, your steel hull sailboat acts as your faithful protector, allowing you to navigate with confidence and embrace the untamed beauty of uncharted waters.

Enduring Customization:

Steel hulls offer a blank canvas for explorers to imprint their dreams upon. Seamlessly adapting to your desires, these sailboats can be transformed into floating homes equipped with the latest technology, enabling you to fully immerse yourself in the expedition. Create additional storage for essential supplies, craft luxurious living spaces, or incorporate cutting-edge navigation systems—the possibilities are limited only by your imagination. Your steel hull sailboat becomes an extension of your indomitable spirit.

Cons of Steel Sailboats:

Embracing The Weight and Speed on Steel Sailboats:

It’s true that steel hulls tend to be heavier than those made from other materials, such as fiberglass or aluminum. The additional weight can slightly reduce the overall speed and agility of the sailboat. However, let it be known that the pursuit of adventure and exploration is not solely about speed. It’s about savoring the journey, immersing yourself in the surroundings, and relishing the sense of discovery. The steady grace and unwavering presence of a steel hull sailboat evoke a timeless spirit that resonates with true adventurers.

Tending to Maintenance:

Steel hull sailboats require diligent maintenance to prevent corrosion. Exposure to saltwater can accelerate the formation of rust, necessitating regular inspections and protective coatings. Yet, the care bestowed upon a steel hull sailboat is not a burden but rather a labor of love—a testament to the enduring relationship between an explorer and their vessel. The dedication invested in preserving its strength and beauty forms an unbreakable bond, strengthening your connection to the journey.

Considering Cost:

Steel hull sailboats are generally more expensive to build and maintain compared to vessels constructed from other materials. The initial investment for acquiring steel, skilled labor, and specialized equipment may be higher. However, the value of a steel hull sailboat lies not only in its monetary worth but in the experiences it grants you. The ability to conquer new horizons, witness breathtaking landscapes, and forge indelible memories—the cost becomes insignificant when weighed against the unparalleled adventures that await.

Unleashing the Potential: Where Steel Sailboats Can Take You

Roaming the High Seas in Steel Sailboats:

Steel hull sailboats boldly embrace the vastness of the open ocean. From circumnavigating the globe to exploring remote archipelagos, these vessels can take you to the farthest reaches of the world. Traverse the roaring forties, conquer the fabled Cape Horn , or witness the stunning migration of marine life across entire ocean basins. Your steel hull sailboat becomes a conduit to connect with the raw power and grandeur of the world’s oceans.

Exploring Inland Waterways:

Inland rivers and waterways unveil their secrets to intrepid explorers aboard steel hull sailboats. Journey through ancient river systems, winding through lush rainforests and towering canyons. Conquer the mighty Amazon, venture into the heart of Africa along the Nile, or navigate the tranquil canals of Europe, immersing yourself in diverse cultures and captivating landscapes along the way. With a steel hull sailboat, the world’s interior waterways become your personal playground.

Conclusion:

Steel hull sailboats epitomize the very essence of adventure and exploration. Their unwavering strength, unrivaled versatility, and indomitable spirit unlock a world of possibilities for daring voyagers. These vessels fearlessly navigate treacherous waters, embracing the unknown and guiding you to the most awe-inspiring corners of the Earth. Embrace the call of the wild, set sail on a steel hull sailboat, and let the winds of discovery carry you to destinations beyond your wildest dreams. The seas are waiting, and with a steel hull sailboat as your vessel, you are destined to conquer the uncharted and emerge as a true explorer of the world’s wonders.

Previous Post Van Life to Boat Life: Millennials Living on the Water

Next post the herreshoff legacy: yacht design and innovation pioneers, related posts.

The Equator

Perhaps you have already read our article about the best reasons to live on a boat and we managed to convince you? And now you are looking for a proper cruiser sailboat to turn your dream of living as a liveaboard into reality? Sooner or later, you will definitely ask yourself which hull material is most suitable for a cruiser and this is exactly the question we want to discuss in the following.

Table of Contents

What Materials Are Considered?

The materials used for hull construction of sailboats are GRP (glass fiber reinforced plastic), carbon, Kevlar, wood, aluminum, steel, ferrocement and also various hybrids of these. Some of these materials are not suitable for use in cruisers due to their specific characteristics. Carbon and Kevlar usually only play a role in extremely lightweight high-performance boats typically found in racing, not to mention that they are astronomically expensive.

Wood disqualifies itself due to the extremely costly maintenance and thus it is not practical for use in cruisers. Ferrocement never really caught on as a hull material and primarily played a role as an easy-to-handle material in DIY sailboat construction. This leaves GRP, aluminum, and steel as materials that come into question for us.

GRP vs. Aluminum vs. Steel

In the following, we will take a closer look at these three materials and compare them with each other under various aspects that are important for a cruiser.

GRP is the weakest of the three materials, especially when it comes to impact and abrasion resistance. However, the strength of GRP is highly dependent on its processing quality, as GRP can be laminated in very different ways, which can make for large differences in stability. For example, the first GRP boats built in the 1960s and 1970s often featured much thicker material thicknesses because people were not yet familiar with the material and this resulted in nearly indestructible hulls. There are also some manufacturers who additionally reinforce their GRP hulls with Kevlar or metal inserts. So, there are a lot of differences in terms of stability, but in general a GRP hull is clearly inferior to metal hulls in terms of stability.

In the video below you can see a few crash tests of a Dehler 31, which is made of GRP and takes the collisions impressively well.

Aluminum and steel hulls, on the other hand, have extremely high impact and abrasion resistance, with steel being even slightly superior to aluminum here, as steel is more elastic and has a higher tensile strength. Thus, a metal boat is much more robust and therefore safer than a GRP boat, especially in collisions.

GRP is far superior to steel in terms of weight. For boats up to about 40 feet, it is also superior to aluminum, since aluminum has a minimum thickness of about 5mm making smaller boats heavier than their GRP competitors. Above the 40-foot mark, the tide can turn, and aluminum may be lighter than GRP, but it depends on the exact construction.

Aluminum as a material itself weighs only about a third as much as steel, but the typical weight saving of a hull is typically 20-25% (but up to 50% savings are possible in some cases). This can be attributed to the fact that aluminum requires thicker material thicknesses than steel.

As should already be clear, steel boats are by far the heaviest of the materials we are considering here.

Sailing Characteristics

The sailing characteristics are of course not primarily dependent on the hull material, but rather on other characteristics such as the hull shape, the rig, etc. Nevertheless, certain characteristics are attributable to the hull material.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Oyster Yachts (@oysteryachts)

GRP boats sail very fast because of their low weight, but the residual flexibility that is unavoidable in the material can cause annoying creaking noises inside the boat.

Aluminum boats, on the other hand, also sail very fast, but much more stiffly and you are not plagued by creaking noises.

Steel also makes for stiff sailing and there are no creaking noises, but due to the enormous weight, a steel boat sails rather sluggishly. However, the high weight also gives steel boats good-natured sailing behavior, which is more likely to forgive too much sail area.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by WELTREISE | ABENTEUER | MEER (@bluehorizon_exploration)

Interior Space

Unlike metal hulls, a GRP hull does not need an internal reinforcement structure that reduces the space inside the boat. Thus, GRP boats offer a lot of interior space relative to their dimensions.

The stability of aluminum hulls, on the other hand, depends on an internal reinforcement structure (consisting of frames and stringers), which takes up some of the valuable space inside the boat. Especially for smaller boats this can be more important than you might think. In the image below you can see the construction of an aluminum hull built by Dutch shipyard KM Yachtbuilders.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by KM Yachtbuilders (@kmyachtbuilders)

Steel boats also need such a reinforcement structure, but it is much more compact than that of aluminum boats, thus offering more interior space.

Insulation Properties

Due to its sandwich construction, GRP is inherently a poor conductor of thermal energy and therefore requires little insulation and, under certain conditions, none at all. Along with the good insulating properties, GRP boats also have less condensation to contend with than their metal competitors. In addition, it also has good sound insulation.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Hallberg-Rassy (@hallbergrassy)

Aluminum and steel boats have very similar properties in terms of insulation. Both materials are very good thermal conductors, which makes good insulation essential. Due to the cold bridges found in metal boats, a lot of condensation occurs inside the boat. The sound insulation of metal hulls is also poor.

Visual Design Options

GRP hulls offer a lot of room for styling, since gelcoats are available in all possible colors and applying them is easy. Another big advantage of GRP is that round shapes can be realized very easily with this material, which makes ergonomics and design very appealing.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by beneteau_official (@beneteau_official)

In contrast to GRP boats, round shapes in metal boats can only be achieved with significantly more cost as this requires a lot of effort and special skill in welding. The many welds on metal boats can in some cases look rather rustic, which may bother some people.

Aluminum hulls usually leave the shipyard unpainted, as painting them is very time-consuming and expensive and therefore rather unusual. The raw aluminum look does not appeal to everyone.

Steel boats can be painted as desired, but they almost always have minor visual rust spots somewhere, which are hardly avoidable.

Safety During Thunderstorms

Unlike metal boats, a GRP boat offers no protection to the boat, equipment, and crew against lightning strikes, and you are dependent on a proper lightning conductor system.

In contrast, boats made of aluminum and steel provide excellent protection against lightning strikes purely due to their construction, because they act as a Faraday cage – the inside of the electric field created by a lightning strike is reliably shielded.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Energy Observer (@energyobserver)

Risk of Material Decomposition

A known risk of material degradation of GRP is osmosis, which occurs when the hull is not properly protected, and moisture can penetrate through the gelcoat where the moisture collects in the hull cavities. The resin in the laminate is decomposed by the penetrated moisture and an acid is produced. Due to its chemical properties, it draws further moisture into the cavities. The pressure in these then increases and pushes the gelcoat outward forming blisters. The brittle gelcoat cracks open and the laminate is progressively decomposed as osmosis continues.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by @sailinghuakai

However, we want to emphasize that osmosis is often overdramatized, and we are not yet aware of any case where a boat has actually sunk because of osmosis. Nevertheless, you should not underestimate this danger and prevent it from happening in the first place through proper care. Unfortunately, structural defects in the hull of used boats caused by osmosis are difficult to see as a non-expert.

In the case of aluminum, there is a risk of galvanic corrosion, in which the base metal aluminum decomposes under the influence of electric current when it comes into contact with a more noble metal. Although such galvanic corrosion can cause considerable damage to the boat within a very short time, this risk can be virtually eliminated if the boat is professionally constructed and regularly maintained. However, this means that any electrical leakage currents must be eliminated, and the many sacrificial anodes must be maintained. Besides, when it comes to electrical installations, you need to know what you’re doing.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Gate Service Barcelona (@gateservicebarcelona)

Steel is generally known to be very susceptible to corrosion. Once steel comes into contact with oxygen in the presence of water, rust forms as a result of oxidation. As owner of a steel boat, there is not much you can do against the constant danger of corrosion, except to always make sure that the steel is protected from external elements, which requires a lot of maintenance. In addition, it should be emphasized that the greatest danger of corrosion is the rusting through of the hull from the inside to the outside and not the other way around. Often it is difficult to see all the areas inside the hull and this harbors some undetected dangers.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Fundacja Klasyczne Jachty (@klasycznejachty)

Repairability

Even fairly extensive damages in the GRP can be repaired quickly and easily because all you need are fiberglass mats, resin, and hardener. Minor blemishes in the gelcoat such as scratches or small chipping can be repaired with ease.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Manta Marine Services Goa (@manta_marine_services_goa)

Repairing aluminum, on the other hand, is much more difficult, because you first need aluminum plates with the right alloy, and then you also need the right welding equipment. In addition, not everyone has the necessary know-how to weld aluminum properly. Minor blemishes such as scratches can be polished, and dents can be attempted to bulge from the inside. However, if you can’t get to the dent from the inside, you’ll have to live with it willy-nilly.

Steel must be welded as well, but suitable steel plates can be found in most workshops around the world and welding is also much easier than welding aluminum. In addition, the required welding equipment is cheaper and more widely available. The repair of scratches can be easily done yourself, but this is often much more time-consuming than repairing the gelcoat on GRP boats. Dents can be attempted to be removed in the same way as with aluminum boats.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Dimos Ganiatsas (@dimosgan)

Maintenance Effort

The maintenance effort is kept within limits with GRP. You should just sand, fill and seal the underwater hull regularly. The great thing about GRP is that such maintenance can be postponed once in a while without having to fear immediately serious consequences (but don’t let it become a habit!).

View this post on Instagram A post shared by SailingJoa (@sailingjoa)

Aluminum boats also require little maintenance, as you only need to regularly renew the antifouling coating and maintain the numerous sacrificial anodes, as well as ensure that there is no potential for galvanic corrosion. However, unlike GRP, the maintenance of aluminum boats allows significantly less time leeway, because if galvanic corrosion does occur, it can cause significant damage in a very short period of time.

Steel boats, unlike GRP and aluminum, require constant maintenance, as there are virtually always some rust spots that should be treated early to prevent worse. At regular intervals, the entire hull should also be sand stripped followed by priming with an epoxy system and then sealing with a paint (polyurethane based). Although a steel hull does not rust as quickly as aluminum does with galvanic corrosion, you should avoid postponing maintenance for anything, otherwise nasty surprises can await you.

The cost of GRP boats, from serial and semi-custom production is the lowest compared to those for metal boats. This is mainly due to the fact that a mold only needs to be designed once, which can then be used for all builds of the model. Custom builds, on the other hand, cost significantly more because a mold must be made individually, which involves high costs.

Metal boats are more expensive in serial production as they require a lot of manual welding, with aluminum being even more expensive than steel due to the more complex processing and higher material prices. However, metal boats can be more attractive than GRP for custom builds, but it depends on the individual project.

In addition, it can be said that aluminum boats have a very good value retention compared to GRP and steel boats, which is also reflected in the second-hand market. On the second-hand market, aluminum boats are usually traded at very high prices, whereas GRP boats depreciate significantly and there is a large supply at low prices. The supply of steel boats is rather limited, but the prices for them are nevertheless rather low.

Besides these initial costs, you should also always consider the follow-up costs, because these can make a lot of difference in the long run, especially when you look at the differences in maintenance requirements. Consider how much time and money you will have to put into the boat and even if you want to do most of it yourself, keep your individual opportunity costs in mind.

A Summarizing Overview

In the table below, we have briefly summarized the various characteristics of the respective materials.

An Important Note

Finally, we want to note that there is no such thing as the perfect hull material, because as we have pointed out, each has its strengths and weaknesses. Keep in mind that the properties of the various materials we have discussed are the general ones that apply to most boats. However, the properties of a hull also depend on the specific boat because construction and quality of workmanship are at least as important as the material itself. When comparing different hull materials, you should always keep these differences in terms of construction and workmanship in mind and not compare apples with oranges. It would not make sense to compare a production GRP boat produced under cost pressure with a custom aluminum boat and then conclude that the GRP boat is inferior to the aluminum boat.

Our Recommendation

In general, we claim that for the majority of people a GRP boat makes the most sense. It is very user-friendly in both use and maintenance and is also relatively affordable. We see no reasons against the use in bluewater or for a circumnavigation, although this scene is strongly influenced by advocates of metal boats. We can certainly understand the aspect of increased safety of metal boats, especially in collisions, but we doubt that this justifies the disadvantages of steel or the additional costs of aluminum. Severe collisions are of course a high risk, but always keep in mind how low the probability of such a collision actually is. Nevertheless, we can understand that the increased sense of safety is a very high priority for some.

When using the boat under extreme conditions, such as in Antarctica or Patagonia, we would also want to use a metal boat due to its increased robustness. So, it’s best to ask yourself honestly which areas you actually want to sail.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Live To Sail (@live_to_sail)

In addition, you should also let your own skills and experiences that you have made with the respective material flow into the decision-making process. For example, if you have had a lot of professional experience with steel processing, then you will see the work involved in a steel boat from a completely different perspective… In this sense, listen a little to your gut feeling.

And last but not least, as already mentioned above, it always depends on the specific boat and especially if you are on the second-hand market, you can certainly be a little more flexible with regard to the choice of material and look at the overall package. But we hope that we could help you understand what to expect from the different materials and assist you in making your decision.

If you have any other questions, need advice on your upcoming boat purchase, or want to give us feedback, feel free to post it in the comments, we’ll try to answer everyone!

Happy sailing!

Leave the first comment (Cancel Reply)

Stay on topic.

7. July 2022, updated 5. August 2024

Bluewater Cruising With a Powerboat Instead of a Sailboat?

17. June 2022, updated 21. July 2022

Starlink Is a Game Changer for Maritime Internet on Boats

17. June 2022, updated 17. June 2022

The Best Reasons to Become a Liveaboard

Filter by topics.

• — Cruising-Liveaboard
• — Powerboating
• — Sailing
• — People
• — Places
• — Products
• Marine Environment
• — Impressions
• — Sustainability

When it comes to real bluewater cruising, like ocean crossings or even circumnavigations, sailboats are clearly more common than powerboats. But let’s be honest, many sailors start the engine as soon as there is a calm. On most sailboats, the engine is certainly no longer just an auxiliary propulsion for harbor maneuvers, but rather a…

Nowadays, you hardly have to sacrifice anything when living on board, and you have access to almost all the things you’re used to from life on land. Unfortunately, fast, reliable, and widely available Internet, which on top of that is reasonably affordable, is still a big challenge. Especially for people who want to do remote…

Here at Maritime Affection, we all have a deep affection for the maritime life. But what to do when this affection has become an inseparable love? It’s simple: become a liveaboard and experience the ultimate freedom right on the water! Especially in the last years of the epidemic, many people have become interested in living…

16. June 2022, updated 22. April 2024

Greenland Shark: 400-Year-Old Hunter in the Arctic

Sharks fascinate many people and are probably one of the most famous sea creatures. Mostly they are known for their impressive predatory abilities, but do you already know the Greenland shark? What makes it special is that it is the longest living vertebrate known, with at least 400 years. Hard to believe and incredibly fascinating…

29. May 2022, updated 30. May 2022

Guidelines to Prepare for Maritime Crime and Piracy

The biggest fear of many boaters, especially those on circumnavigation or other long voyages, is to experience a pirate attack on the high seas. In addition, kidnappings involving ransom, robberies, burglaries, and thefts cause worries among crews. These worries are definitely not unfounded and therefore it makes sense to familiarize yourself with these risks and…

28. May 2022, updated 29. June 2022

Sailing Cruiser: Monohull vs. Catamaran

Whether you plan to buy a sailboat to sail around the world, become a full-time liveaboard, or just occasionally go on nice sailing trips with the family, you will be confronted at some point with the question of whether it should be a monohull or a catamaran. With this article, we want to help you…

23. May 2022, updated 18. July 2022

End-Of-Life Boats, an Urgent Issue That We Must Solve

Although the idea may hurt, every boat eventually reaches the end of its lifecycle and must be disposed of accordingly. In contrast to many other things, which we can nowadays easily get rid of and usually even recycle the majority of, this is far more difficult with boats and therefore more expensive. Consequently, many end-of-life…

16. May 2022, updated 17. June 2022

Why Size Doesn’t Matter When It Comes to Your First Own Boat

For many of you maritime enthusiasts sooner or later the desire for your own boat arises. We felt the same way and we are also enthusiastic boaters! But if you are a newcomer to the world of boating, you can quickly be frustrated or disappointed by unrealistic expectations regarding financial and organizational aspects, and you…

13. May 2022, updated 22. April 2024

The Ultimate Guideline for Sustainable Boating

More and more people are developing an awareness of the dramatic marine environmental problems and are trying to live more sustainably. Also, in global politics the discussion around marine sustainability becomes more and more important and the boating industry is regulated by increasingly strict laws. Especially when you are boating, there are many small things…

28. April 2022, updated 31. May 2022

Sausalito, CA: the Perfect Maritime Getaway

If you ever find yourself in the San Francisco Bay Area, we have a beautiful place for you that is guaranteed to make your maritime heart beat faster. We’re talking about the charming town of Sausalito, 6.4 km (4 miles) north of San Francisco. There’ s a strong maritime feel to Sausalito, no matter where…

Attainable Adventure Cruising

The Offshore Voyaging Reference Site

• Hull Materials, Which Is Best?

As Phyllis and I think about what our next boat might look like, one of the primary decisions is hull material.

We have several chapters in this Online Book about the characteristics of the four general available options, steel, aluminum, wood and fibreglass (see Further Reading below), but that still leaves the question: Which is best, not just for Phyllis and me, but for you, too?

As usual, the answer is the oh so annoying: it depends on what we plan to do with the boat.

But what I can say, is that there are two materials that are pretty easy for Phyllis and me to drop from the hull materials prospect list. So let’s start with that, and then move on to the two left standing to pick a winner.

Hull Material We Won’t Consider

We will not even be looking at boats made of steel or wood—not quite true, we might consider a good wood epoxy saturation build—and that’s also our advice to most of you.

Why neither of those two materials? Both are intrinsically unstable. Or, to put it another way, no matter how well the boat is built, if left to their own devices, wood will rot and steel will turn into a pile of iron oxide.

OK, before you take me to the woodshed in the comments, let me make clear that I understand that good boats can be built of both wood and steel.

One of my good friends has a wooden boat that has given great service (including a bunch of ocean crossings) for decades, and will continue to do so for many more. But he built her himself, has cared for her meticulously, and has incredible skills. But I’m not Wilson (that’s his name) and, in all likelihood, neither are you.

The same applies to steel. If you built the boat yourself, or supervised every step of the build, and then cared for her yourself, it can work. Just look at the amazing voyages made by AAC contributor Trevor Robertson in Iron Bark .

But we are talking about second-hand boats for most of us, so steel and wood are out because it’s difficult to be reasonably sure in a pre-purchase survey on either material that something horrible is not going on deep within the structure. Something that, when discovered, can turn our new-to-us boat into a worthless pile of junk—we are talking the risk of serious wealth destruction here.

Still not convinced? Let’s dig deeper.

There’s another big problem with wood. If we find say a rotten stern post, or any other structural member after purchase, the skills and time to replace it are prodigious. Heck, just replacing a single plank in a way that will actually be watertight takes great skill and perseverance. Way beyond practical DIY for most of us. And I have seen professional replacement of just a few rotten members in a wooden boat cost over US$100,000.

What about steel? Well, on the positive side, repairs require less skill than wood. But the problem is it is very difficult to build a boat of steel under about 45 to 50 feet that will sail or motor well. The reason is that steel plating must be of a certain minimum thickness to be workable and not deform, regardless of boat size, so small steel boats are pretty much always too heavy, at least for the performance that Phyllis and I want.

And, finally, the maintenance of a steel boat is simply no fun—unless you have some perverted love of chipping rust and working with toxic chemicals—and to make that worse, any breach of the coating must be dealt with promptly and properly.

The bottom line is that I know a lot of people who own a steel boat, or have done so in the past, but I have never met anyone who has owned a second steel boat.

All that said, I guess purchasing a steel or wood boat with a history like those I mention above, from someone you really trust, would be OK—particularly if you make clear that if they have lied to you, you will hunt them down and… And the advantage of this course is that you can often get a lot of boat for very little money.

Hull Materials We Will Consider

Where does that leave Phyllis and me, and probably you, too? Yup, with fibreglass and aluminum. Both are intrinsically stable—assuming we don’t do something stupid, and, when built right, a hull of either does not deteriorate just because of the passage of time.

And both can be surveyed prior to purchase to make fairly sure (there is no certainty) that there is not something horrible lurking. Yes, I know there are many horror stories (I have one of my own) about fibreglass boats with hidden faults, but that’s a survey failure, not a material one. (More on how to avoid survey failures coming soon.)

So which is best, aluminum or fibreglass? Brace yourself. I’m going to do it to you again. It depends on what you want to do. Let’s look at each.

As a 30 year aluminum boat owner, I love the material. And if Phyllis and I were planning to go to seriously hazardous places (as we have in the past), aluminum would be our only choice.

But on the other hand, aluminum is a bitch to keep paint on, an expensive bitch. And, by the way, don’t think for a moment that leaving the hull bare solves that. Prepping and painting the deck and cabin of an aluminum boat to the yacht standard that many owners want and want to maintain, will, if done right by professionals, cost as much or more than painting an entire fibreglass boat.

The point being that if you are considering aluminum, you need to do as I do: take your glasses off when you see the paint bubbling. Or, better yet, seriously embrace the industrial look and have no paint on deck or hull, other than non-skid.

Also, although there is no question that most of the horror stories you hear about aluminum are just that—stories—the material does require caring for, including closely supervising anyone who works on the boat. Most boatyard professionals are dangerously ignorant about aluminum and many will make that worse by not appreciating their own ignorance.

So that leaves fibreglass. And for Phyllis and me, who now want a boat that we can safely leave unattended far from home—we are now part-time cruisers—that’s the way to go.

Also, as we age further, we will be paying boatyards to do more and more for us, another plus for fibreglass, since it’s more resistant to unsupervised ignorance—boats with core in the hull, particularly balsa, not so much—than aluminum.

Bottom line, if you are not willing to learn the basics of aluminum boat care and won’t be constantly present to rigorously enforce that knowledge on others, choose fibreglass. On the other hand, the good news is that said aluminum boat care is not hard, and not magic. See Further Reading for our complete guide.

I’m guessing that many of you steel boat owners are now seething and reaching for your keyboards to tear me a new one. Feel free to disagree and tell me why steel is great, but be realistic.

And please keep in mind that we have a lot of readers who do not have a lot of boat ownership experience. So if you blow sunshine about the issues with steel boats, particularly old steel boats, you may make yourself feel better, but you may also tip someone into a life altering decision with substantial negative consequences. Not something any of us need on our conscience.

Further Reading

• How to care for an aluminum boat in 27 easy steps.
• Much more on buying a boat .
• How to care for a cruising boat, once you have bought her.
• The engineering characteristics of hull materials.
• Impact resistance and why it matters .
• More on boats from Boreal .
• More on Ovnis .

Please Share a Link:

More Articles From Online Book: How To Buy a Cruising Boat:

• The Right Way to Buy a Boat…And The Wrong Way
• Is It a Need or a Want?
• Buying a Boat—A Different Way To Think About Price
• Buying a Cruising Boat—Five Tips for The Half-Assed Option
• Are Refits Worth It?
• Buying a Boat—Never Say Never
• Selecting The Right Hull Form
• Five Ways That Bad Boats Happen
• How Weight Affects Boat Performance and Motion Comfort
• Easily Driven Boats Are Better
• 12 Tips To Avoid Ruining Our Easily Driven Sailboat
• Learn From The Designers
• You May Need a Bigger Boat Than You Think
• Sail Area: Overlap, Multihulls, And Racing Rules
• 8 Tips For a Great Cruising Boat Interior Arrangement
• Of Cockpits, Wheelhouses And Engine Rooms
• Offshore Sailboat Keel Types
• Cockpits—Part 1, Safe and Seamanlike
• Cockpits—Part 2, Visibility and Ergonomics
• Offshore Sailboat Winches, Selection and Positioning
• Choosing a Cruising Boat—Shelter
• Choosing A Cruising Boat—Shade and Ventilation
• Pitfalls to Avoid When Buying a New Voyaging Boat
• Cyclical Loading: Why Offshore Sailing Is So Hard On A Boat
• Cycle Loading—8 Tips for Boat and Gear Purchases
• Characteristics of Boat Building Materials
• Impact Resistance—How Hull Materials Respond to Impacts
• Impact Resistance—Two Collision Scenarios
• The Five Things We Need to Check When Buying a Boat
• Six Warnings About Buying Fibreglass Boats
• Buying a Fibreglass Boat—Hiring a Surveyor and Managing the Survey
• What We Need to Know About Moisture Meters and Wet Fibreglass Laminate
• US$30,000 Starter Cruiser—Part 2, The Boat We Bought
• Q&A, What’s the Maximum Sailboat Size For a Couple?
• At What Age should You Stop Sailing And Buy a Motorboat?
• A Motorsailer For Offshore Voyaging?
• The Two Biggest Lies Yacht Brokers Tell

What are the hull and deck panel thicknesses on MC?

As I remember, hull 1/4 to 3/8 in the keel. deck 3/16″. That said just looking at plate thickness does not tell you a lot. For example MC is built with very closely spaced frames and stringers which add a lot of strength but less weight than heavier plate and fewer frames and stringers.

John, I hear your warnings about steel, and I know this might be a complicated route to go. My main reservations about fiberglass boats is that the majority of them come with external keels which is fine for me for a one or two weeks charter but something I absolutely do not want for my own future boat. Encapsulated keel structure (or welded on as with steel hulls), a deep V forefoot, and a rugged skegged rudder, are characteristics that can more often be found with steel hulls as with “plastics”. When going for my survey I plan to come with a fiber optic to inspect all those remote places, and would certainly rule out a boat where I would not have access to most if not all hull places. That said, if I were to buy now, my current favourite on the market is a fiberglass ketch 😉

I would not recommend discarding all external keel boats from your list. Yes, the modern trend to bolting through light skins and then using a glued in web to stiffen things up is intrinsically dangerous, but there are plenty of external ballast boats that are built properly.

And internal ballast is not without problems. Like with most things it all depends on the execution.

And there are good hull forms in GRP too. In fact, in my experience, a lot of steel boats are designed very poorly.

Anyway, I would not take on the risk and maintenance burden of a second hand steel boat for those reasons.

Agree with everything you say about steel boats. When I got back from Vietnam in 1969, I took all of my savings and bought a steel 45 steel schooner and lived on her. I went to work at the Naval base in Pensacola, FL and left my wife to chip, sand and paint the rust spots that seemingly appeared almost every day inside and outside ( no wonder she divorced me! ) I finally sold the boat to a “know it all” and bought a Hinckley 50 fiberglass yawl — problem solved!

Hi Patrick,

Thanks for the report. Another person who has owned one steel boat!

I totally agree with your conclusions on this. No material is perfect but fiberglass has a lot to be said for it overall and aluminum is great when a bit extra is required. Aluminum is actually the only material you have listed that I really don’t have much experience with beyond little skiffs so it is the one I can’t properly comment on but I like the concept.

I have had a lot of interactions with wooden boats including having a good sized one in the family and working aboard several. While I love these boats and think they look great, our boat is fiberglass and that is intentional. For that matter, our boat doesn’t have any wood on deck at all. With wooden boats, like most things, it really comes down to who the owner is. An owner who gets it and stays ahead of maintenance puts in surprisingly little time (still a whole lot) dealing with rot and paint that won’t stick. An owner who is a little less vigilant and deals with a deck leak by hanging a diaper under it rather than getting out their irons to fix it will find the boat falls apart on them incredibly quickly. In my experience which is all salt water based, deck leaks are the biggest killer of these boats by far and they are actually comparably one of the easiest to track down and fix. Even for an owner who farms out the wood work, I would say that if you can’t fix a deck leak and don’t have oodles of money, then it is a disaster waiting to happen.

With steel boats, all I have to say is that I hate the sound of a needle scaler. If you have a ton of money, there are great examples like the Columbia replica but that is not attainable for most of us.

I realize that there are a lot of people who get very nervous with keel bolts (and bolts in general in anchors and other things) and while it is something to watch, I think that it is a good trade-off given the other options. I think that a lot of the issue is that the average person does not know how to evaluate whether a bolted connection is a good connection and there have been an awful lot of poor connections built over the years. An example of a good connection is most connecting rod bolts which have enormous numbers of cycles, vibration and other factors to contend with but yet basically never fail unless there is another underlying issue such as the caps being mixed up. By getting the bolt stretch length long enough, using appropriate materials, having appropriate mating threads and using enough torque/tension, you end up with bolts that don’t back out and do not fatigue. Keels are a bit tricky as very few materials won’t suffer from some sort of corrosion if there is any water and fiberglass creeps so it is difficult to maintain constant tension but I think that you would find an extremely low failure rate on well designed connections and that most of the failures were on connections where an analysis would have shown that the margins were low and best design practices were not followed.

On wooden boats, although I have little first hand experience, as you say, and I see demonstrated by Wilson, a skilled and diligent wooden boat owner can make the maintenance look easy, but let a wooden boat get away from you and there will be tears.

On keel bolts, a question for you? If contemplating buying an old boat with external ballast, would it make sense to insist that before purchase the keel bolts (assuming accessibility) were torqued to the proper value for their material and size?

My thinking is that, assuming the construction and bolts were right when built, the biggest risk, particularly with SS bolts, is that they have wasted at the keel to deck joint due to water ingress, so if they withstand the appropriate torque without breaking we can be pretty sure that that they are not appreciably weakened. Does that make sense?

I would make no such assumption about the keel bolts. They may be seized, in which case you’ll see the correct reading on the torque wrench but the pre-load tension in the bolt will be wrong. They may also be partially corroded, in which case they may withstand the torque but still be capable of failing in tension if the boat were to, for example, ground on a reef.

If it’s possible to get at them to check their torque, it shouldn’t take much longer to completely remove the nuts, one at a time, to check the studs or the cavities for signs of corrosion before re-torquing them to the proper specs. If it’s not possible to do this, then it’ll be difficult for *any* non-destructive examination to reveal what you want to see.

Thanks for coming up on that. How about just loosening a half turn and then torquing to spec? What I’m trying to come up with here is a way to at least check for a really bad keel boat situation in a way that will be acceptable before purchase, and I fear that if we try and actually remove the nuts and backer plates the seller will reject the idea—just torquing the bolts is going to be a hard enough sell.

So, I get that the bolts may still be a long way from original after this test, but at least it will catch the ones that have corroded really badly. Also, I’m not sure that removing the nuts would tell us much since the bad bolts I have seen were corroded where the keel meets the hull, but would have looked fine from above, even with the nuts off.

Bottom line, I get that this is not a great solution, but my thinking is that it’s practical and a lot better than nothing. Would you agree?

Pull a few and inspect is probably the only real way to to be sure. At least this is done on a woodenboat.

Ignoring whether a seller will or should allow retorquing keel bolts, the theory is good but the practice is somewhat more problematic. Proof testing is a well established industry practice that has proven to be pretty effective. Periodic hydrotesting of pressure vessels such as boilers, tanks, etc is just one example of something that has been successful at eliminating a lot of dangerous failures.

The first practical issue is what torque do you apply. I design capital equipment not sailboats so don’t know exactly what is done as there are multiple schools of thought but if I were designing one of these joints, I would figure out my worst case loads, choose a preload of ~2X and then upsize the bolts from there a bunch to give a corrosion allowance but not increase the preload any more. The question is, what was done on the boat you are looking at. The average person does not have the knowledge to calculate what the maximum per bolt load is and then we don’t know the factors from there. I suspect that there are some boats out there where the torque value from the factory is 75% of yield just like most bolts are but I also suspect there are a lot of boats out there where the preload will be more on the order of 30% (I have it written down at home but I believe this is approximately what I calculated for ours with the assumptions I made). In the case where the designer did not leave a corrosion allowance, then a torque to 75% of yield is entirely appropriate but on other boats, you could break a bolt which while corroded was actually still well within allowable parameters or you could crush the laminate if there is insufficient load distribution for the higher tension. All of this can be calculated with fairly simple calculations but having anybody without training apply it is problematic and even then, you are really doing a proof test not just a retorque as you likely won’t know the original torque. If anyone knows of a standard that all designers hold to so a way to avoid the guessing game of the factory torque, I would love to know it.

The other practical issue that comes to mind is the imperfect relationship between torque and tension. Engineers refer to this relationship as K factor which is basically friction between the threads and the faces. When tension is really critical, the standard thing to do is to actually use oil or grease which are more repeatable and represent a lower K factor. If there has been any galling at all which is a real problem with stainless, all bets are off and you could even break the bolts before bottoming out if it is really bad. This is really the long way of saying that it is really inexact if you do it dry, you would really want to clean everything well and then oil the threads. Of course, if you are NASA, then you can actually measure tension on the bolts but everyone else is left using torque as a proxy.

Given all of this, I am not sure that most sellers could be made to agree to a specific torque number unless original build documentation can be found with a number which I don’t think that I have ever seen (unfortunate and kind of scary). Retorquing is definitely not a bad idea and I have done it on our boat, I just don’t know how to implement it simply and quickly unless someone knows that all keel bolts were originally torqued to some % of yield or something equivalent.

Hi Eric (and Matt),

Thanks for going to all the trouble to explain that. As so often happens, I’m a lot wiser after reading your and Matts thoughts. And clearly my idea is not a good one.

The sad part about that is that I think those of us considering an older boat may have a real problem that’s not generally recognized: Having wandered around boat yards a lot lately, I’m seeing a lot of otherwise good looking boats with stains indicating that water has penetrated between the keel and hull. I’m also guessing that a lot of boats for sale have had those stains covered up with paint.

Add in that many of those boats will have stainless steel keel bolts and I’m starting to think that the only good answer with a boat like that is going to be to drop the keel to check the bolts before heading offshore.

Of course we will not be allowed to do that before purchase, so that leaves walking away from a lot of good boats, or assume the risk. And the risk is not trivial. If the bolts are bad, replacement can be a serious matter. One experienced person at a quality builder said that the best and least expensive solution is to recast the keel with new bolts! The point being that most keels have J bolts cast in, and he said that hacking them out is a disaster—he has seen it tried.

So the more I think about this, the more I think that a lot of people who think they have refitted their boat for sea may in fact be sitting on a pretty nasty problem that would be hugely expensive to fix. And that as the years go by, this is only going to get worse. (A lot like the problems with SS in old rudders.)

I would really appreciate any other ideas of how to deal with this, or alternatively reassurance that I’m overthinking this. Also, do you think bronze keel bolts relieve at least some of this worry? With SS all I can think about is those bolts sitting in a wet oxygen deprived environment for 30-40 years! How about industrial x-ray? Expensive, I imagine, but probably a hell of a lot less than a keel bolt replacement.

John, you just elaborated very wisely the reasons why I will certainly not be looking for a boat with an external keel. You just can’t look inside (and I doubt even industrial xray could reliably see cast-in bolts). It is just like playing lottery, and what I learnt is at least that I will never win 😉 You’re right that encapsulated ballasts have their own issues, but at least they cannot fall off during a passage.

Your call, but what I’m finding is that there are so few really good boats out there for sale that even come close to my critical needs that to settle on a single keel construction type would limit my choices. This is particularly true since I want a boat with good performance, which is harder to do with an encapsulated keel, particularly in GRP.

Also, a boat with a bad encapsulated keel can be really bad. Think steel punchings in concrete. If that lot gets cooking and splits the outer sheath (I have seen 3 of these in the last month while wandering around boat yards) the repair would be way harder than new keel bolts. Just think about jack hammering out all that stuff!

Point being there are good boats built both ways, ditto bad boats.

Just to clarify, I was not asking about X-raying the bolts inside the lead. The problems I have seen are wasting in the hull to keel joint and a bit above. Seems like X-rays would pass through the GRP and show the bolt, but then again I have no clue, which is why I asked the engineers. As I remember Matt has worked on medical imaging equipment, so we may easily get a good answer.

Hi John, Your question highlights for me that another valid comparison (apart from hull material) might be long run production boats vs short run / custom boats. Long run production yachts of course favour fibreglass of course and tend to have more than a few things worked out over time – one of which is to make them as “charter friendly” (aka idiot proof), as possible. But am I right in my supposition that for this reason, most long run production boats will have steel keels, secured with stainless bolts tapped down into the metal keel? And short run designs (not generally being for charter markets) take advantage of the performance gain with lead keels, but have studs penetrating up through the hull, with securing nuts? Reading between the lines of Matt and Erics’ responses, it seems you must remove the keel to really check the studs on a lead keel and even then there could be something lurking deeper inside. Conversely, to check the keel bolts in a steel keel yacht, you could simply specify removing say 25% of the bolts at pre-purchase survey time. For total peace-of-mind, replacing all the keel bolts on our Beneteau 473 with original OEM bolts costs about $200 US, available ex-stock from the Beneteau Spares web-site (as are most other parts by the way, even now 15 years since launch). Now I get there are pro’s and cons of lead vs steel keels. But the simplicity and integrity of a steel keel is really hard to beat. I know of a Beneteau 473 that hit a rock doing 8-9 knots under motor, coming to a crash stop. The only damage the surveyor could find on the Monday (up on the hard) was a fleck of anti-foul chipped off. No gap in the hull joint, no weeping at the keel / hull join, no cracking in the anti-foul. Internally, no damage to the lay up or the supporting girders either. No harm, no foul as they say in America. So how about a long run production boat, John? br. Rob ps – no, it wasn’t our B473!

That’s a good point although I do wonder about the actual practicality of unscrewing a keel bolt that’s been imbedded in steel for years without it shearing off. I guess it would depend on how well the original builder had treated the bolt threads with an anti-seize of some type. As usual, we are at the mercy of the builder’s QC since one small mistake in construction can lead to a world of hurt 20 years later.

And good to hear that a Beneteau withstood a grounding so well. However, I would not want the impression left that this is always the case with boats from Beneteau since at least some of their later boats are built with a keel construction technique that is fundamentally dangerous, particularly after a grounding: https://www.morganscloud.com/2014/06/05/cheeki-rafiki-tragedy-time-for-changes/

I also need to point out that if the boat in question was built using the same methods as “Cheeki Rafike” there is no practical way to know for sure that she was not damaged.

(Both are conclusions from the report on “Cheeki Rafike” and engineering done my the Wolfson Unit at Southampton University. https://www.morganscloud.com/2015/06/25/cheeki-rafiki-report-misses-an-opportunity-to-make-boats-safer/

All that said, I have no problem with the idea of a production boat and have thought about several. In fact, as you say, there are a lot of advantages to one, particularly later in the series when the bugs have been worked out.

I think you could get pretty good contrast and detail of a set of keel bolts in cross-section via X-ray, given sufficiently high quality X-ray equipment. And if the X-ray crew has access to a megavoltage source like Co-60, you’ll be able to see the bolts cast into the lead quite clearly.

This is not going to be cheap, however. And whether it tells you anything useful will really depend on the exact design of that particular boat.

You could try ultrasound, but that’s highly dependent on the technician’s skill and on the access situation for that hull.

If stainless steel, or galvanized mild steel, bolts are cast into the keel (forming studs that protrude into the boat), and there’s evidence of water intrusion, then I think dropping the keel a few inches is the only reliable way to tell the extent of damage.

With lead keels, bronze bolts are definitely the correct choice; the bronze/lead combination is basically indestructible for more than the life of the hull.

Galvanized mild steel bolts with a cast iron keel also seem to be OK as long as the bolts are accessible for periodic replacement, and I’d definitely undo one or two to check during pre-purchase survey. Stainless makes me nervous. Bronze bolts with a cast-iron keel make me nervous.

Don Casey has a good article on assessing keel joint issues here: https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/how-secure-is-your-keel

Thanks for that great information. Sounds like there’s nothing for it but to plan to drop the keel unless it’s bronze bolts into lead. Good to know what the reality is.

Thanks for linking to that article. I’m way better informed after reading it. Casey is the real deal.

Thanks for posting link to Don Casey’s article.

I was worried what you would ask what to do about it. Unfortunately, I don’t have great ideas beyond actually taking a look. I work on the design side of things and so don’t know a lot about non-destructive testing other than where I need to make allowances for it to be done (this is something that is definitely not done in the design of these joints). My experience with X-ray is limited to inspection of welds and castings and I am not sure how it would work on keel bolts so I can’t really add anything beyond what Matt said. I believe that there are also design solutions to make this a much smaller concern that could involve changing materials, designing to be inspectable, designing to be repairable (iron keels that are tapped and bolted from the top being an example), etc but that doesn’t deal with the already built boats.

In my case, there are a few things that made me feel comfortable with our boat. Looking at the ISAF statistics compiled in 2013, of 72 recorded keel failures, only 3 could be attributed to the bolts (important to note that 40 were undefined so the actual number could well be higher). Weld failures, and internal structure failures both had a more than double incidence ratio. I actually find this failure rate pretty low given the number of poorly designed (or designed with low margin for racing), poorly maintained and poorly repaired joints out there. Our boat has a pretty conservative keel attachment, the lever arm is small and the attachment is wide in both directions and the bolts are large. Given that, I calculated the required bolt strength and then looked at the bolt size on our boat and concluded that the designer had been appropriately conservative in upsizing to allow for corrosion. Next, our boat did not show any of the problem signs such as large rust streaks, signs of grounding damage, etc. Finally, I did exactly the test that you were hoping to do which is a torque test on all of these bolts (note, this and all the calculations were done post purchase) to values I calculated and felt comfortable with. Obviously this is not perfect but has mitigated the risk to a level where I feel there are other more important places to put my efforts.

Actually pulling the keel in a properly equipped yard is not that big of a deal, often on the order of what people spend on electronics for the boat. What becomes really problematic is if the bolts are found to be compromised to the point where they must be replaced. Given our location, I would contact Mars Metals if I ever got to this point. For people who do not live near a facility like this, it gets more tricky. I have limited experience installing bolts from the bottom of a keel and I could see it working in some instances but not all.

Thanks very much for expanding on that. Obviously it’s disappointing not to have a generally applicable risk reduction strategy. But then again, when did that every happen around boats!

The good thing is that I now understand the issues and how to reduce the risk to acceptable levels. One thing I would say is that I would need to think long and hard before buying a boat that say had tankage or mast step structure over the keel bolts since that can make the job of dropping the keel from, as you say, comparatively simple, to a much bigger job.

Hi John, thought I should address the keel questions for anyone considering a Beneteau cruiser and reading this. Cheeki Rafiki, was a Beneteau First designed primarily as a racer / cruiser. They have light hulls and rely on a structural liner for much of their hull rigidity, with bulkheads and “furniture” glued in. In the main, the boats are fit for purpose and they don’t have a history of losing their keels, even though there seems to be a serious question over the keel to hull design. I personally wouldn’t sail one offshore but would have no hesitation in owning one around the NZ coast, if I raced more.

The Beneteau Oceanis 473 was designed by Beneteau as their offshore model and as I have heard it told, the model was built to help alter their “bendy Beneteau” reputation. The Clipper Oceanis range (of which the 473 is one), are the last of the all hand laid fibreglass models before European regs changed to enforce epoxy, vacuum bagging and sandwich construction. The hulls were built super-thick of solid glass fibre and more so around the keels and other high stress areas. 473s then have massive supporting girders glassed into the bottom of the hull. The bulkheads are also glassed in not glued. The flanges of these girders are wide to improve the hull bonding and spread the keel load. Around the front and back of the keel area, the girders are only about 250 mm apart. The keel bolts go through both the girder flanges and the hull. Unlike the First, the 473 in particular has a much wider keel base and a double row of bolts (single row on the First). Comparing the two boats for offshore use, is like comparing a Toyota MR2 with a Toyota Land Cruiser – built for two very different things. My experience with owning a Beneteau is the QA processes were (are?) excellent, but I must add inspecting one or two bolts a year to my maintenance list. I haven’t so far because we run a dry bilge and the bolts are like new. And John, therein lies an opportunity for an astute buyer – there are gems in most production yacht manufacturer’s ranges, just as there are bad’uns. It is finding those good’uns that can pay off – the 473 is an absolute diamond. best regards Rob

Good to hear that the 473 has the bolts through the flanges and the grid glassed in. The key to the Cheeki Rafiki disaster is that she and her sisters had neither. Also, the report stated that other boats of her class had keel problems.

I wonder what Beneteau is doing these days with their newer boats.

Also it’s important to realize that Beneteau sold the class that Cheeki Rafiki was a member of as ocean capable. They make the same assertion for most of their current offerings.

Summary: any buyer needs to check to make sure the keel support structures are glassed in (not just glued) and that the bolts pass though the flanges, not just the hull skin. If they find this is not the case, run a mile.

And anyone considering buying any modern boat with a fin keel should read the Cheeki Rafiki report so at to know what to look for.

One more thought. Sorry to be such a pain in the ass on this. But one thing I have learned over the years running this site is that people skim (particularly the comments) not read carefully. They also tend the hear what they want to hear.

The point being that while I fully understand that you are not saying all Beneteaus have safe keels, just yours, I still need to jump in with the realities from the report.

Hi John, Why do sailboat keels smile? Because they are thinking about how much fun it would be to swim freely in the ocean like the dolphins, free of the heavy burden on their backs!

Of course we all know that GRP is forever. Even after you scrap the damn thing it’ll still be recognizable land fill or artificial reef for the next thousand years. Still there is one other material that deserve a passing derisive remark: Concrete. It’s a material used exclusively by amateur builders that never seems to survive the first owner.

Insurance company do not underwrite concrete boats in Canada. Not sure of USA. Since they need civil responsibility, place are limited for an owner. Altough it was a most decent material, well insulated, cheap, partially insulated.

Yes, we have friends with a concrete boat that has served them well. That said, I decided to leave the material out since good concrete boats are pretty rare.

For what it’s worth Joe Adams (the designer of our boat) had his first big success with the original Helsal that was a ferrocement boat. It smashed up records for the Sydney Hobart classic and was forever known as the ‘Flying Footpath’.

http://rolexsydneyhobart.com/news/2012/pre-race/helsal-tribute-to-joe-adams-in-rolex-sydney-hobart/

What a great name!

Ask any physicist about the stability of Aluminum alloy and they will say ; the aluminum stability derive from its oxyde layer which is the strongest material on earth after diamond. Thus any object built of aluminum alloy should make sure that oxyde layer is preserved. A simple piece of wood on an aluminum plate staying outside in the rain will get holed in a few months and will prove you that it can be attacked easily once the Al2O3 layer is depleted in oxygen poor environment. And aluminum is born of electricity and can be destroyed by electricity.

The ebook should have started with the french joke: Circumnavigators knows that 50 % of the boat going around the world have a metal hull, the remaining are US boats.

Each aluminum boat is a unique closed loop battery and had to be kept under cathodic state under all conditions. Some boat well builts have it naturally, some others don’t and with maintenance mistakes, this is were horror stories come from.

I am not found of polyester boats because the environnmental cost of getting rid of those tons of plastic polluants at the end of life have never been taken into consideration is the first price. Polyesther fiberglass is not recyclable. We are just pushing the problem forward to the next generations. One day not to far someone will wake up and put environnemental cost on the new GRP production boat and people will realise its not cheap.

Wood as said before, is only up to the maintenance made. My marina neighbor has a magnificient wood boat that he built himself, on the plan of Joshua. He told me last weekend, 6000 to built and 6000 hours to maintain since 30 years. A tribute to those brave men.

Steel… if only the genius of the french architects who recommended to build hulls in steel and the deck and infrastructure in stainless would have been more commonly communicated, we would have less steel boats relics today. 95 % of the paint maintenance of a steel boat is on the deck. A steel hull/stainless deck has about 1 hour of touch up maintenance every year (for all those logs and obstacles hit on the water)

Thus for metallic boats ultimately the material is not the problem, its the way it has been put together and maintained. A production aluminum sailboat could be the perfect boat for circumnavigators. For some specific usage, only steel can survive. This special boat is quite an achievement, almost 20 years in the polar sea: https://vagabond.fr/en/vagabond/

(Of course i am biased i have a year of mechanical engineering classes in material resistance and my full welding certification for both Aluminum alloys, Steel and 304 and 316 stainless on conventional SMAW and also on GMAW and GTAW.)

My experience over nearly 30 years is that the aluminium alloys used in boat building are a lot more durable than you indicate. For example my boat had teak decks and toe rails for the first 12 years of her life. And, despite the fact that water had got under the teak in many places and been there for years, we found only a little surface corrosion of no consequence when we removed the wood.

Yes, as I said in the article, it’s important to follow the rules with aluminium, but that’s far from rocket science and occasional mistakes do not result in a wrecked boat in a few weeks, as many will tell you.

Also the horror stories of wrecked aluminium boats are in my experience pretty much all of the “my cousin has a friend who knew someone who…” variety rather than reality. In fact I have yet to see an aluminium boat trashed by corrosion of any type and I have seen a bunch that have been horribly neglected.

I think the key point in all of this is that marine grade aluminium is far more durable that the grades most people have experience with in other uses.

And it’s also worth keeping in mind that aluminium has a higher strength to weight ratio than steel, so in fact a stronger boat can be built in aluminium on a practical bases. That said, aluminium is not as abrasion resistant as steel.

As to the environmental issues with GRP, I hear you but I don’t think it’s that simple. For example steel boats use a lot of really nasty coatings and insulation. Also those coatings must be renewed at a regular basis. And the making of both steel and aluminium plate have a pretty big environmental impact. Point being, it would take an in-depth study taking all these factors into account to determine which, over the life of the boat, inflicted the most environmental harm.

Hi John at the marina were my boat is (Québec city) we had to get rid of an old 30 feet fiberglass sailboat unused and leftover. The city environmental personnel came in and said we could not use the city garbage service and it had to be destroyed on site and buried in a special area (city owned) for about 100$ per ton. It ended up costing us 2000$ to get rid of this boat. If it would have been alu or steel people would have paid to pick it up.

If course Quebec is very serious with garbage and landfill management and not all jurisdictions are equal. But the trend has started here…

As for alu alloy indeed 5083 is a magic material if properly maintain. I did own a 34 feet powerboat for 6 years in my auxiliary coast guard previous life and there was a corrosion meter on the dash of it (silver anode isolated under water connected to the hull) and the owner book went to great lengths explaining the potential issue. At sea no problems because electrolytic voltage are low. But I had a AC current leak from the battery charger once and I noticed a month later(boat in water) tiny droplets of water appearing at the inside of the hull in the engine room just over the propeller. I wiped it everyday and when I hauled the boat out it could be seen from outside that the aluminum was severely pitted at 3 places… almost 1/8 depth. I had to replace and reweld the plate… it was full of tiny holes. I had magnesium anodes on the boat ant they were untouched. So it was galvanic corrosion at its worst. One season…

I agree it’s a worst case scenario but I was a first line witness of it. In this case the corrosion meter didn’t showed any problem although a problem was occurring.

Do you have a corrosion meter on MC?

This being said I would not be nervous of having another aluminum boat built of marine grade alloy by professionals- it’s is certainly the best boat material if properly built and maintained.

The meter you you had would not have warned you about that particular problem. Also, my guess is that the boat was not fitted with an isolation transformer, which is absolutely required for any aluminium boat plugged into shore power.

For a complete guide to aluminium boat ownership, including a gauge that would have warned you immediately about the current leak, see the links under further reading.

Having a strong electronic/electrical background like John, I’d like to reinforce his point on isolation transformers. It’s my view they should be mandatory on all metal boats, and considered highly desirable on all others. They serve at least three safety critical purposes:

1. The obvious one is that they isolate the ground loop to the shore power ground. Essential to prevent electrolysis and ensuring swimmer safety.

2. They provide inherent shore power reverse polarity protection. This is often an overlooked and not very well understood benefit.

3. The secondary of the transformer effectively becomes a ‘local power source’ and the neutral bonded to the boat hull ground. This provides a rock solid ground path for the boat that is independent of the shore power ground. This is essential to ensure any Earth Leakage/Residual Current Balance protection devices will work reliably. Depending on a shore ground loop that may have multiple cables and connectors, all subject to corrosion and miswiring, is a hidden and underestimated danger.

While the first attribute is highly relevant to metal boats, the second and third are common to all. Probably most boats don’t have an isolation transformer, and if they all were beautifully wired to a high standard it’s a compromise I’d be more sanguine about. But isolation transformers aren’t expensive in the wider scheme of things, and from an electrical perspective I regard them as the single most valuable investment you can make.

I agree. I would never own a metal boat without an isolation transformer, and would even seriously consider one for a GRP boat.

Hi John indeed it didn’t had an insulation transformer, and i took care of installing a Victron one on my steel sailboat. The anodes barely work on my boat i have the same since 2011 🙂

Andre, GRP is recycled in Europe and on an industrial scale. Additionally GRP boats are deposited in land fill, cut up, as it is considered inert. In the UK land fill sites are now sealed for future reclamation as well as the avoidance of leaching. Regarding recycling, it is not commercial for smaller batches but tends to be the waste streams from large GRP users. Alastair

Thanks Alastair for the information, Europe is in advance on us ! Indeed fiberglass is most inert … but 10 000 years later we don’t know… probably it would still be there !

You have [predictably] left out Ferro Cement – order should be (I owned a Ferro Cement yacht for many years so speak from experience)

Fibreglass Ferro Cement Aluminium

Although I have friends with a very good ferro cement boat I did not put it in because there are so few good FC boats available. Also, to say FC is “better” than aluminium is to ignore each materials characteristics. For example aluminium has a much higher strength to weight ratio and is far more ductile.

As my wife reminds me every time I look at a “beautiful” steel boat: “Rust never sleeps”

Donald that is also true for everything apart gold, platinum,titanium and a few other incorruptible elements.

We human live in the bottom of an air ocean and the O2 is a powerful oxydant. By chance is it diluted in nitrogen because otherwise we would have all burned including everything around.

Oh and that brings a point. A steel and férocement boat would survive a fire but others not. GRP is like a gallon of gasoline waiting for its match…

One of the secrets to a good life: marry a wise spouse.

I’ve had three steel cruising boats, two of which I’ve cruised extensively with. Each were bought used, 20 or more years after they were built. If I was in the market for another boat, I’d definitely consider a steel one.

Everything depends on how the boat was built and maintained.

My current steel boat was built very well, with no longitudinals to trap water, and–more importantly–flame-sprayed with zinc inside and out (properly-prepped & applied epoxy coatings can be almost as good as this). Rust is not a problem with this boat.

Yes, there are poorly built and/or maintained steel boats that will require a lot of work to go sailing (and may not be worth restoring). I think that holds true for any hull material–a couple of years ago I was offered a once-beautiful boat, professionally-built of fibreglass, effectively for free. I turned the offer down. The boat had been neglected, and while the solid fibreglass hull was undamaged, the plywood bulkheads and most of the interior had rotted due to water sitting inside the boat (it was left unattended in a boatyard for a few years).

A steel boat with: * properly-applied coatings, * easy access to most areas (to all areas would be best, but realistically, you’re unlikely to remove tanks to inspect the plating under them unless you suspect a problem), * few or no areas where water can sit, shouldn’t be a maintenance problem.

Everyone I’ve met with a stainless steel deck, as Andre mentioned above, has had good things to say about them (none of my boats had stainless steel decks, so I don’t speak from personal experience, here).

It is true (and important) that damaging the coating on a steel boat requires fixing it promptly (how promptly depends on temperature–corrosion happens very slowly below freezing). Zinc coatings on the steel have some advantage here (if underwater), as the zinc migrates to the bared area electrolyticly, but this is only for small scratches. POR-15 (buy some small cans before leaving North America, as it isn’t all that widely available), a coating developed for the antique car restoration market (which deals with thinner steel plate), makes maintenance painting of damaged areas much easier, since it doesn’t require sandblasting before applying.

>This is the reason that by far the majority of experienced high latitude sailors have aluminum boats. Are you sure of that? When I went thru the NW Passage, there were more steel boats than aluminum boats. In Antarctica, I don’t recall aluminum boats outnumbering steel boats. In Patagonia, I saw more fibreglass boats, and roughly equal numbers of steel and aluminum ones.

Steel probably isn’t suitable for you, because you are looking at buying a considerably smaller boat than the one you have. But for someone looking to cruise long distances, high latitudes and remote places, a used steel boat could be a good choice. It all depends on the construction and maintenance that has been done, and that’s something that mostly can be determined before buying.

Best regards, Richard

Hi Richard,

Thanks for a great report from someone who clearly knows. Clearly you are the exception to the second steel boat crack I made!

As to my assertion about high latitude sailors. No, I don’t know for sure, although it has been my experience, but of course that’s not definitive. One thing I have noticed is that several high latitude sailors with substantial steel experience ended up with aluminium. Skip Novak and Hamish Laird are two that come to mind.

One thing I would say is that I would have no worries about you buying another steel boat, but I don’t think that alters my concern about buyers without your experience taking one on.

Yes, two professional, high-latitude sailors, Skip Novak & Hamish Laird have moved to aluminum charter boats after extensive experience with steel ones. I think most people who own steel boats would consider or have considered aluminum boats.

I don’t think there is any definitive list of boat types that are out doing high-latitude cruising. Records are kept of vessels that go through the NW Passage. I did a quick search of the sailboats that went through the NW Passage in 2017. I counted 4 of aluminum, 4 of steel, 3 of fibreglass, 2 of wood, and 8 that I was unable to determine the construction of. Of the two sailboats that went thru in 2018, one was ferrocement, and I don’t know about the other one. The NW Passage is very much a high-latitude trip, and anyone who has gone through it has at least that much high-latitude experience (and, I would greatly hope, a lot more experience than that before they attempt it!). Those NW Passage numbers are pretty recent, and are in accordance with what I have observed while cruising. So I respectfully disagree with the statement, which the article puts in bold print, ‘by far the majority of experienced high latitude sailors have aluminum boats’.

Some people considering a metal boat will find themselves in the situation of feeling they can afford to buy a steel one, but can’t afford to buy an aluminum one, and see their choice being to own a steel boat or not own a boat. I would encourage people considering a steel boat to read books about them (‘Steel Away’ and Tom Colvin’s ‘Steel Boatbuilding’ were both of much use to me when I was a beginner), talk to people who’ve owned steel boats, and talk to boatbuilders, yards and surveyors that work with them. I don’t know of any particular site on the internet to recommend for information on steel boats.

I agree that steel boats are not for everyone, but disagree that they are only suitable for those who have owned them before–steel boats can be learned about.

I agree, a hard to define stat. I should have written something like “most of the high latitude boats I have encountered are aluminium” or some such.

That said, I still think that steel is a tough material to own, particularly for those new to boat ownership.

I changed the line in the post. Thanks.

Thanks, now we’re in agreement.

Jut some musings.

There is an aluminium boat from 1936 still floating around and the oldest aluminium boat builder started building aluminium hulls in 1898, Savage Aluminium Boats. I think there are GRP hulls from the early ’50s still pottering about today.

I read that a typical, modern 40’ish GRP yacht has around £5000 worth of materials to make it. Today we see new and old GRP yachts sailing around the globe frequently, managing the stresses and strains of the Souther Ocean and plenty of arctic and antarctic voyages. A colleague ran his Contessa 34 onto a boulder lee shore, F5, big damage, the boat dragged off and significant repairs; owner of a Sigma 41 ran into a rock and snapped the steel toe of the hull flange from the keel all theta through, as well as significant hull damage, I too rammed a ledge at spring tides at speed and busted GRP stringers etc, none of these yachts sank. One thing that GRP has going for it, is that it flexes considerably on impact before it yields, although the area will have been significantly stressed and weakened. The same for aluminium, recently at Ardfern Marina, a modern aluminium yacht was on the hard, after the owner ran her over rocks and bashed the hull significantly at the turn of the bilge, I guess the aluminium though would have maintained a lot of it’s strength. The skills were not available to fix and she was being prepared for road transport back to the builders yard in France when I saw the boat; GRP on the other hand can be fixed easier, I suggest. The point I wish to make, is that GRP is a strong material, it has resilience and a history of surviving neglect and abuse. This is what makes it a superior material in my opinion. Sailing is a minority pastime, the vast majority of participants will have reasonable funding and GRP has proved to be very cost effective and allowed some fantastic low cost, extreme voyages to be made by amateurs. I don’t particularly value steel or aluminium for their strength in hull choice as avoiding the sort of impacts that damage hulls should be the name of the game for any serious voyager. If one is in a situation that impact damage is happening, then it is luck that is stopping the hull from foundering. I think hull design with collision bulkheads and water tight compartments is more relevant for security against foundering than GRP v aluminium v steel. It is this sort of design feature that buys time and allows options to be worked. There are always exceptions of course.

John, I think your reasons for going GRP are very valid. I am a lazy hull cleaner, preferring to let the waves do the washing. But about every 3 years I polish and wax the hull and it comes up beautifully.

Hi Alastair,

Lot’s of interesting points. One thing I differ a bit on is GRP repair. Yes, you can repair a GRP boat easily, but, and it’s a big but, it’s very difficult to be sure that said repair is properly bonded, at least without using epoxy, which has its own difficulties. Secondary bonding is a far bigger problem is generally recognized. More in a future post.

Also, metal boats have another advantage, other than just strength, and that is it’s much easier to make them stiff, and that in turn makes it much easier to make them watertight for the long haul.

And finally, strength is very important in the high latitudes where, no matter how careful, sooner or later we will hit something, either ice or an uncharted rock.

In summary, having owned both for long periods, I don’t think that GRP is “better” than aluminium, just better for my needs going forward.

We chose steel because we saw the boat we purchased had been prepared properly and we were aware of the need for prompt maintenance. Everything in “adventure cruising” being a compromise, the key to happiness is, we feel, this awareness. We are a few weeks from leaving on what we hope will be a five-year circ with an emphasis on independence from the shore and the ability to do our own repairs save for major refitting. Few people get to do this, irrespective of hull material. The wisdom of our choice will soon reveal itself, one way or another. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I have to wire up a fridge compressor…

Hi John, A few vignettes;

Steel: Bernard Moitesser’s Joshua; Washed ashore in a hurricane in Cabo San Lucas– filled with sand. Given away to two guys walking on the beach. Pumped out and motorsailed all the way up to the Pacific Northwest where she became a dock mate to my Cape George 36. Every fiberglass boat that washed ashore on the same beach was cut up and hauled away.

Brewer Atlantic 45: Built by a well know Canadian yard. Sailed around the world and arrived in Trinidad with several overlaid hull patches. Spent a year being “completely” re-plated and re-decked while sitting outside as is the practice there. (and rusting all over again) Repainted and looked “smooth as glass.” Sold to a naive young couple who panicked the first time they hoisted sail. I was offered it for $15,000 and turned it down.

Classic 110 ft. Feadship In our yard for a complete restoration. Hull built with overlapping strakes — every overlap rusted out. Re-plated the majority of the hull, re-powered and restored interior to new. Fixable, but at tremendous cost.

John Guzzwell was one of the earliest pioneers of cold molded wood boat construction. I met him when he hauled his Laurent Giles ketch out in our interior storage area. It was built in the days before epoxy— he used resorcinal glue just like the Spruce Goose. Planking was mahogany rather than the more rot resistant Alaskan cedar. And the hull sheathing was Dynel in polyester resin. John spent the winter removing the old sheathing and replacing it with glass cloth and epoxy out of concern over moisture penetration from the resin. I made it a point to chat frequently to pick John’s brain and learn everything possible about cold molding. When he finished bringing “Treasure” back to bare wood there was only a small area of discolored wood— the planking was as sound as new and she was ready to receive her new modern sheathing.

I built my Cape George 36 deck without fasteners, epoxy bonded over an epoxy/glass base over Port Orford Cedar. Lived for 36 years outside with no covering and little care by multiple owners, but was still watertight and serviceable.

So yes, properly built wood boats can be durable.

At the same era the PT Shipwrights Co-op worked on a caravel planked boat that was built in 1898. She required a new stem timber and about 40% of the bow planking replaced. The repairs probably cost little more than all the Beneteaus that were being peeled and glassed under warranty at the same time.

So yes,traditional wood boats that have been properly built can be repaired over and over again so they last forever.

Fiberglass:

A J130 that has a perfect black paint job, new carbon sails, the latest electronics, and a custom $30,000 factory upgrade interior just sold for $15,000! Underwater delamination and extensive wet core. My proposal was to completely re manufacturer the hull bottom with epoxy resin infusion and close spaced foam/carbon ribs and stringers and no core. The end result would be the best J 130 in the world.. Some extensive rebuilds actually make sense!

And not all fiberglass boats last forever! Especially if they have a balsa core underwater.

All good examples that can teach us a lot. As you say, many of these problems can be solved. But, at least to me, the key take away from all those stories is that the fixes take huge expertise and if done wrong the result can be huge wealth destruction. Bottom line, I would have no worries about you taking on any of the above situations, but for the average person my advice would be “not a good idea”.

Hi John My little stories weren’t chosen as examples of good projects for do-it-yourself dreamers! What I was trying to illustrate is that good (and bad) boats can be built of all materials. I could have included an aluminum Italian motor yacht with black AC current “peppercorns” in the hull that you could push a screwdriver through, or a 90′ fiberglass motor yacht where the underwater exhaust outlets had burned all the resin completely away from the adjoining area and was a single wave away from sinking.

The skill level required to undertake repairs runs the entire range:

John Guzzwell’s 24 year preventive maintenance project required a strong back and weeks of work with a heat gun and scraper, but technically anybody could learn how to do it with a couple of weeks of practice. The guys who nursed the battered Joshua up the Pacific coast were adventurers, not shipwrights. Hundreds of graduates of wooden boat schools know how to re-plank a traditional wood boat– that skill has not entirely disappeared. A teak deck originally built like my Cape George only takes a day with a grinder to be ready to be glassed over, unlike the can of worms in a screw fastened fiberglass, aluminum, or (heaven forbid) steel boat teak deck.

On the other hand, the hull rebuild I suggested for the J 130 is probably more technical than building an entirely new boat and requires engineering and solutions not found in the typical professional boat yard.

All in all, i am not sure the hull material is a strong discriminating factor in a purchase. If i my boat would be lost and have to shop for another one, the first criteria for me would be a metallic hull. Because it is a metallic hull it can have also a safe swing keel and a flat bottom to go on the beach or where there is tides. Shopping for a boat is a matter of luck for the availability of what we want. And age is important also. i have 58 and plan to use my boat for another 20 years if God helps. But suppose my boat would be lost and i would be 70 – knowing that in 6 to 8 years the boat will have to be sold back would mean a very important criterion would be to be able to sell the boat rapidly and profitably. For this reason i would opt for a good aluminium sailboat or if a catamaran then GRP. Not because technically they are better (in my humble opinion) but rather because its easy to sell. I thinks its also the thinking of many prospective buyers….

I submit that it is possible to find a world cruising sailboat for under $100K that is not a project boat: http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f152/aluminum-30-ted-brewer-cutter-for-sale-202692.html This is also a not too subtle plug for checking out Cruisers Forum when researching said topics. Full disclosure, this has been my beloved boat for nine years, and AAC is the first site I recommend to not only aluminum hull boaters, but every boater. Thanks John, Phyllis and crew

She certainly looks to fit the specification and supports the my thinking that when constrained by that budget the best alternative is to go a bit smaller than the 40′ that seems to be the new “standard”. Better a smaller good boat than a bigger crap boat.

And thanks very much for the kind words.

Also, if you feel like sharing, it would be interesting to know what comes next for you after she sells?

Hello John, I guess I’d like to also throw in my little “grain of salt”. I am one of those “idiots” who is on to his second steel boat…The first one, a 1975 van de Stadt ketch, I spent 10 years rebuilding, while living on board and working full time, in the heat and humidity of the Florida Gulf coast. I never finished! However, my second boat, a one-off Treworgy 38 built in 1995, is of a combination you haven’t mentioned, but which is used in a large proportion of the luxury mega-yachts, as well as military and work ships: Steel hull and aluminium deck and superstructure. They are built using a flatbar, called a Datacouple, that has one side of steel imploded onto the other side of aluminium. This is welded to the steel hull and the aluminium deck, and the junction being a very fine micro-line, presents absolutely no electrolytic corrosion problem whatsoever, is 100% watertight, maintenance free, and very strong. It allows the eternal problem of maintaining steel horizontal surfaces to disappear, and lowers the weight topsides. Isolation transformers: Obviously a must, although most GRP boats can get away with a galvanic isolator. One thing to be careful of: The Marinco deck receptacles for the AC connection, as they come out of the box, have a small chromed metallic jumper that connects the ground terminal with the casing. Pleas make sure this is removed! Last but not least, no one has mentioned lightning! With 20 years working professionally on boats in the Tampa Bay area, which is also know as the lightning capital of the US, I can assure you that when you are living aboard full time, and have these daily and very scary lightning storms pass right over you, such that you know is a lottery and at any moment one of those blasts will be right on top of you, having a metal boat is a big reassurance. It won’t keep equipment from being damaged, but it will certainly keep you from being damaged if inside the boat. Very cozy! Best regards and thanks for the great website. Jonathan

Hi Jonathan,

Yes, I have a friend with a boat with a steel hull and aluminium deck, who is, or was (we have lost touch) happy with the boat. That said, I personally would prefer to go all aluminium if considering another metal boat. And yes, I agree that metal is really nice when the flashing and banging starts.

I agree, a really good paints system goes a long way on steel. (On aluminium its just cosmetic.) That said, getting to that point on steel is seriously hard: https://www.morganscloud.com/2012/02/16/why-not-steel-part1/

And, judging from what I see out there on the water, a paint system that good is not that common.

Dear John your comment is not scientific… the sample of steel boats you might have seen doesn’t necessarily represent the reality. We should not compare amateur built steel boat versus commercial built aluminum boats.

When I built my boat I visited a professional alu boatbuilder who had learned in French yards his skills. Although I had welding skills I find out that I was not capable of building correctly without experience a first aluminum boat. I turned to steel with the compromise of a stainless steel deck and superstructure and using commercial Amercoat primers and finishing paints + a certified paint inspector. The sandblast + paint costed me 18000$ CAD in 2008 which account to approximately 3 % of the total cost of the boat.

And frankly unless the builder as in your example as strictly adhered to products and applications guides an as proof or it we should not even consider it in a fair comparison.

This being said, almost all semi professional and professional yards have turned to aluminum in the last 20 years.

In the commercial world, steel boats, freighters, petrol carriers, liners etc.. all got a paint system valid for their 50 years of life. We don’t have the number but I guess that if we count all the ships in the world the number of square feet built of aluminum would be less than 0.01% (probably even less) of the worldwide commercial fleet.

Demonstrated valid protection system exist for steel immersed in sea water with 50+years of useful life.

Conclusions: 1-We should compare apples to apples in our discussion otherwise we get lost in armchair stories.

2-Shopping for an amateur built steelboat should involve much more scrutiny than a professional made steel or aluminum boat.

I never claimed it was scientific, that why I said “judging from what I see”.

Yup, Colin did a great job on that piece. As you say, they did a great job on the boat. That said,I would not class it as “over and above” but rather the minimum required to be a happy steel boat owner, and that in turn is why I don’t recommend second had steel boats. Just easier for most of us to own GRP or aluminium.

Hi John Judging from what I’ve seen, a really good paint job on an aluminum boat is not that common either! The difference with steel construction is that the most important area for protection is on the inside where perfection is the hardest to achieve and recoating is difficult or impossible. Thats’ why steel boats rust out from the inside. And why there are so many home built rust buckets.

re aluminum boat structures: As you mentioned in an earlier comment, an aluminum design with multiple frames and stringers covered by relatively thin plate like MC and aluminum race boats is stiffer per pound than one with thick plate. However I’ve never seen that method of construction result in a surface with so little distortion that it doesn’t require fairing and paint to look decent. Isn’t that the reason you’ve never stripped MC back to bare aluminum?

I’ve worked on two heavily framed aluminum boats— a 12 meter designed to Lloyds scantlings and a 300,000# motor sailor where the owner insisted that the longitudinals be continuously welded on both sides “to make it stronger.” The 12 meter had 3/8″ of mud in some places, and the megayacht had so much accumulated welding stress that it crushed the decks and engine room overheads.

At the other extreme of aluminum construction, my friends Garcia Passoa was built with 12mm plate up to the waterline because they wanted to be able to set it down on rocky bottoms in Patagonia without damage. Back in those days Sr. Garcia used a massive roller to shape 50′ long curved aluminum panels that were so fair you could paint directly onto them and it would look like molded fiberglass. Or you could leave them bare and marvel at his craftsmanship. As I recall the ribs were over a meter apart, and served more to attach bulkheads to than to add stiffness. Different boats for different folks– and purposes.

Thanks, John, for featuring a lovely photo of us and our boat at the beginning of this post. However, and with great respect for all the contributors, I think that the discussion of the “best” hull material misses a couple of essential points.

Most of us build, own and sail boats simply for the pleasure they give. For me at least, a large source of pleasure lies in the boat’s look and feel. Does the boat look good from afar and up-close? Is it pleasing to your eye and comfortable under your bum as you sit in the cockpit with drink in hand? Is the cabin warm, dry, and cozy? Do passers-by offer compliments? Does it perform well under way and at rest?

Hull material strongly influences the look and feel of the boat. Metal boats tend to the industrial strength go-anywhere-any-time look that can be very impressive and pleasing if well executed. Wooden boats tend to fall into the fussy, look-but-don’t-touch category or, at the other extreme, the hairy old, gaff and baggy-wrinkled character boat group, irresistible to some, anathema to others. Fibreglass is the most adaptable of materials but seems to be dominated by a white desert of angular shapes and shiny metallic trim.

My suggestion is to consider “best” material in the context of the ways in which you expect to gain pleasure from your boat. Don’t buy/build something that is built of a material that can survive pounding on lee shore rocks or banging into ice floes unless the resulting look and feel and knowledge of its strength will please you every time you climb aboard.

Our boat is made of wood because that’s what I know and like. I have confidence in its strength and durability for the type of sailing we have done and dream of doing. Countless times we have had folks say to us something along the lines of “what a beautiful boat, but it must be a lot of work”. Well, it is a lot of work, but keep two things in mind. First, I enjoy the work and annual rhythm of varnishing and painting (at least most of the time). If I didn’t like that work, I would have a different boat. Second, structure and finishes that attract onlookers’ initial response are relatively small parts of the whole boat in terms of initial cost and ongoing effort. Our wooden boat has the same needs as any other boat in terms of underwater paint, rig, sails, electrical and mechanical systems, ground tackle, safety, and other gear.

So, my advice is to get a boat that will give you pleasure in the overall scheme of things and consider hull material within that context, not as a starting point.

Hi Wilson, Nicely put and a wise way to look at things. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

As Dick said, well put. However, I still think that you are discounting the importance and the level of your own skills and how that affects your enjoyment of owning a wooden boat. Or to put it another way, I stick by my assertion that wooden boats can be heart breakers for those with less skill and dedication.

All I was doing in my comment was explaining that one can’t view plate thickness in isolation. I was not saying that the light plate many frame construction technique was a better idea, just different. As to paint on aluminium, I agree, in fact I made that point in the article above.

But the key point in all of this is that a good paint job on aluminium is cosmetic, on a steel it’s a matter of boat preservation.

No disagreement from me. I was just trying to point out that there are always connections: in this case the relationship between how an aluminum boat is engineered and whether it is a good candidate for bare aluminum finish.

You make a very good point. I have never enjoyed the boat part of cruising so much as when sailing on an extended family member’s beautiful wood S&S. As someone who has worked on several nice wooden boats, I always felt a bit awkward when I would answer the inevitable question of which yard takes care of the boat and I would explain that it was not yard kept and also that no, I couldn’t claim credit for most of it either, I was just lucky enough to get to enjoy it.

When getting our current boat, we really thought hard about whether we should take over stewardship of that boat. In the end, we went to the opposite end of the spectrum and decided to get as low a maintenance fiberglass boat as possible. We certainly have given up something that is hard to describe but the design is much more suited to the actual sailing we do and we can keep up with doing all the maintenance ourselves. I am someone who enjoys metalwork but does not enjoy the more artistic elements of woodwork which means that while I can spile a plank just fine, I have trouble motivating making elements that require an “eye” and as a result they don’t come out very well. Every time I see a picture of that boat, I wonder whether we made the right call as the feeling of being aboard was just so wonderful despite it lacking the creature comforts of newer boats.

Great way of describing the Real Purpose of owning a boat! If she doesn’t warm your heart every time you row out to her at anchor, perhaps it would be best to invest in a motor home with the obligatory wavy graphics on the side!

While talking to Larry Pardey years ago on the dock a passerby commented: “what a beautiful boat, but it must be a lot of work” LOL Larry didn’t say anything for a minute, having heard the same comment a thousand times in a hundred harbors. “Well, we don’t have anything else to do” he said. (having just crossed the North Pacific from Japan in a self-built wooden boat with a 24′ waterline)

Nobody has raised the difficulty of getting a good antifouling for an aluminum hull, when i was building i remember the ban on TBT taking place in Europe. Is there good protection available today ? (this article is old) for current owner of alu boats what is the current state of the art antifouling ?

https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_17/features/10783-1.html

Steel hull is very easy to protect with a simple copper oxide suspension.

We have a good solution that we have been using since the end of tin: https://www.morganscloud.com/2009/06/18/zinc-based-antifouling/

E Paint also does consistently well on tests at Practical Sailor and has the other advantage that it’s less environmentally damaging that copper based paints.

Colin is also having very good results from a new copper free paint from Petit.

Hi Rob, I find your report of a Beneteau 473 hitting a rock at 8-9 kn and then a surveyor finding no damage extraordinary. I know you were discussing lead vs steel keels, but, less others think that sailboats can get away with that, I will share a couple of observations. For years I lived near a boatyard in a town with a very seductive rock a few miles away. Most every year, boats would limp in having hit that rock. Every one (or almost every one, I can’t remember) that hit that rock at hull speed with an external keel was considered a total write off by surveyors and the insurance companies. Usually the killer was structural damage of the fiberglass just aft of the keel, sometimes forward, as the keel tries to lever its way off the hull. Beyond that there always was near to the keel bulkheads pulling their tabbing from the hull and furniture etc. being dis-lodged. That was usually enough for the complete insurance write-off. Now, a steel keel would, I would think, transmit the forces more abruptly/directly into the hull as lead has a bit more “give” to it. I suspect the difference altogether may not be all that great. It is my understand that the average boat will not survive a keel to rock grounding at hull speed. I have been told, by those who know about these things, that it would be very hard (read expensive) to have a boat that could withstand an external keel to rock grounding at hull speed (I suspect full keels and some shoal draft could come closest). My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

We saw a Beneteau 50 (2004 ish) hit a rock at speed last year and damage the hull with water ingress. Damage was as described, fore and aft of keel, stringer damage. I think after removing the interior, reglassing and putting everything back, it was around 50-70k ish which the insurance company paid.

Hi William, Absolutely horrible thing to witness as a sailor I’m sure. I think I am right in saying the Beneteau 50 you refer to above is a completely design to the B473 I referenced above. I have never sailed one, but from the pieces I have read, it seems to share the hull liner design of the lighter First models, like Cheeki Rafiki. I am sure the hull would be thinner, too. That doesn’t in anyway detract from your corroboration of Dick’s point about many boats being massively damaged or written off by such impacts. It just doesn’t mean that well designed production boats and in particular the Beneteau 473s and their smaller sister-ships 423 and 393 have the same issue with their external steel keels. br. Rob

Would it really be that hard to engineer a keel joint to survive routine impacts at hull speed?

Today in 3 Minutes of Rough Physics Approximations:

Say it’s an 8 knot boat…. round that to 4 m/s. Displacement 10,000 kg. Draught 2.5 m (of which 0.5 m is hull and 2 m is keel). The keel tip hits a rock, the boat pitches forward, she comes to a dead stop in half a metre (measured at the waterline), average acceleration 16 m/s2. About 80 kJ of kinetic energy needs to be dissipated. Impact forces are on the order of 160 kN at the keel tip, for a pitching moment of 320 kN.m. Couple that through a keel root joint with a 2 m chord length that’s already supporting maybe 5 tonnes of keel, and simplify to pseudo-point loads at leading and trailing edges, assuming the middle part does nothing. That looks like about 190 kN of tension shared among the leading keel bolts and 140 kN of compression on the trailing edge of the keel root joint.

So the question “is it possible to make a 10,000 kg fin-keel boat with a 2m keel survive an 8-knot hard grounding on solid rock” is reduced to “is it possible to share 19 tonnes of tension among the first few keel bolts, and carry 14 tonnes of compression from the trailing edge of the keel joint into the hull, plus appropriate safety factors”. 19 tonnes is below the proof load of four M16x2.00 – Class 5.8 bolts, which seem considerably undersized for a boat of this class. 14 tonnes from a point load can easily be spread through a tapered U-shaped rib/frame about 20-30 cm in moulded depth, or a partial bulkhead, spanning most of the beam of the boat.

I think it’s not a matter of “that’s hard” or “that’s expensive”, but rather a matter of “we build to the scantlings in the class rules and they don’t consider this load case to be routine”. But it seems to me like, at build time while the hull is still in the mould, you’re talking maybe a three-digit dollar figure for this kind of reinforcement.

Hi Matt, how right you are! The boat in question (Beneteau 473) has internal “U” shaped tapered beams almost exactly as you describe, but with thick, wide flanges. The beams are probably slightly over 30cm at their deepest, in the centre, near the bilge and the keel bolts, tapering to not very much at the turn of the bilge (fairly flat bottom especially around the back of the keel). The beams are very close together at the front and back of the keel and about 20 cm wide. These beams are so tough that during our pre-purchase inspection, the surveyor’s hammer bounced off them like they were steel. He called me over to remark on their size and thickness and how many there were around the keel area. Being an ex-yacht designer, offshore sailor and boat builder he didn’t seem the sort to be easily impressed. We both thought they might have a steel core, but I later discovered they are 100% moulded fibreglass. Matt, I think these beams may have cost a little more than a three digit number more, but as you say – not a lot. But I have heard that due to EU heath regulations, such hand lay-up techniques can’t be used anymore, and that most large items like beams would be epoxy injected and vacuum bagged, then cured and simply glued in. I wonder if this is not as inherently impact resistant. Do you have a view on this? br. Rob

The Cheeki Rafiki report makes clear that a glued in grid is intrinsically dangerous and, if memory serves Matt has already agreed with that in our original discussion about said report.

Bottom line, your boat may be a battleship, and that’s great. But I need to make sure others understand that extrapolating that construction to any other Beneteaus, without carefully checking, might be a very big mistake, particularly in light of what you heard about EU regs.

This is my biggest problem with modern fiberglass boats. Boatbuilders that still exist are exceedingly good at value engineering. The ones who weren’t went bankrupt decades ago.

Value engineering requires warranty claims for its feedback mechanism: make something weaker, and if there aren’t any claims then it’s still too strong.

But most pleasure craft spend nearly all their time floating next to a dock, plus an occasional few hours underway in Force <5 conditions.

So value engineering is walking boats down to the point where they're good at floating next to a dock and occasionally sailing in benign conditions—plus Class.

But Class is controlled by manufacturers, and they'll continuously make the case that real world experience shows that Class is too conservative. So Class is value engineering with a delay, and that's how we end up with (for instance) brass thru-hulls and glued matrix liners.

Yes, sadly, I think you are right in every detail on that one. Definitely narrows things down. I’m starting to think the sweet spot is around the 90s when better techniques became available but value engineering had not kicked in quite as much as it has today. Also I totally agree that class is inadequate and in fact has just become a fig leaf to cover up poor boat building:

https://www.morganscloud.com/2015/06/25/cheeki-rafiki-report-misses-an-opportunity-to-make-boats-safer/

Dick, If you go to YouTube and search for “Crash Test – Dehler 31 yacht” you can see Dehler ramming their yacht against all sorts of objects at hull speed. It’s a GRP hull with a standard fin bolted to the hull, not a bonded in grid or encapsulated. The video is worth watching all the way for all the ramming scenarios this boat is going through, including a keel strike against a breakwater base. I am not doubting your observations. My position is that GRP hulls can be designed strong enough for extreme loads at sea, and that inherently makes them strong enough for many types of impact. As design changes over time we now see hull designs with very efficient keels that meet a performance criteria with some sacrifice in strength and are less resilient. I do agree that steel can be stronger but I think GRP can be relied on as safe and secure material, where the design demonstrates that. I won’t post the link here as I am not sure if that is allowed. Regards, Alastair

Hi Alistair, I fully agree that fg hulls can be built to withstand almost anything the sea may challenge it with. I also agree that fg hulls can be built strong enough so that the keel to hull joint is not compromised by anything the sea has to offer. In fact, it is my take that most are. It is a non-sea event that I was referring to: hitting a rock at speed low down on a conventional keel. It is a predictable event for a certain (hopefully small, like lightening) percentage of those who put significant miles on their boats. It is my take and observation that the average sailboat can’t tolerate hitting a rock down low on a keel (possibly excepting shoal draft and full keel where the lever arm is mitigated to a large extent) without substantial damage and often leading to total loss. As to the video, you cited: hitting floating wood objects and log booms should leave only a dent and did leave gauges as shown in the video. But that should be all the damage. I believe the video shows the boat hitting the rock wall with the underbody leading up to the keel high up on the keel, not low where the lever arm is most powerful. This is augmented by the video of a keel placed well aft and the boat rising at first and then largely stopping dead with very little tipping forward. A boat hitting the bottom of their keel at hull speed looks like it will pitchpole. It is incredibly dynamic and looks to eject the people in the cockpit into orbit. This hitting the breakwater was gentle by comparison and says they were sliding up the hull, absorbing the loads till they got to the keel. Very little was shown of keel dents or evidence on the forward underbody where I suspect there was contact. Also, the keel to hull footprint is one of the tiniest I have ever seen on a fin keel boat: harder still to believe it could survive unblemished a bottom of the keel rock grounding at hull speed. Your Dehler video was not, to my observation telling or compelling: it was an advertising stunt. (Reminded me of the old Hunter destruction tests done back in the day: I am not a fan of manufacturer testing.) Now, I am largely unfamiliar with Dehler boats and they may make great boats, but I am not impressed by the video as evidence that a conventional fin keel boat can survive a bottom of the keel rock grounding at hull speed. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Hi Dick, that was my understanding entirely, so I fully understand your note of surprise. This was also the owner’s expectation at the time – the boat was rushed back to the nearest haul out facility, with crew in life jackets, coastguard on standby and bilge pumps primed. Most people are reticent about admitting things like going aground, never mind crashing into a rock at full tilt. So I have no reason to doubt a first hand account of the incident, from the owner to me, on board their boat some months later. At the time of the impact the owner was down below, having handed over the helm to a friend to check something. The rock concerned is well marked by a beacon and for some inexplicable reason, the EXPERIENCED sailor and friend took the beacon on the wrong side – hey stuff happens. The crew were lucky to avoid injury. Please see my answer to John above, on the way Beneteau Oceanis 473s are built for the reason why I think they could withstand such force, without any visible damage. Not that I am looking to test it mind. Inside the hull the keel bolts, girders and hull are all completely visible by simply removing a few floor boards. All easily checked by an experienced surveyor. I have to say if it was me, I would have insisted the insurer pay for the keel to be removed, keel bolts changed and the whole thing re-seated at a minimum, and this may well have been done – I don’t have the detail of that. By the way, I do wonder that marine insurers don’t sponsor more marine buoyage. We have a notorious rock near us, that collects about four launches a season. br. Rob

Just to clarify, the Cheeki Rafiki report makes clear that after a grounding it is extremely difficult, perhaps impossible, to determine if dangerous damage has been done to this kind of construction.

So to say “Inside the hull the keel bolts, girders and hull are all completely visible by simply removing a few floor boards. All easily checked by an experienced surveyor.” is simply not correct.

The report also goes on to show that with this type of boat repair is not cost effective and so to be safe the boat will probably be written off.

I think it would be a really good idea if you would read said report, and the associated Wolfson unit report.

Sorry to be so harsh, but this is important stuff and further me constantly arguing with you and quoting the report is only going to get us crosswise, which would be sad.

Hi Rob, It sounds like you have a very solid boat and you must be re-assured to have it validated especially if you were not the one doing the testing. My interest in responding to your initial letter was primarily to point out that, in my experience and in talking with others, most of the regular sailboats out there could not survive unblemished what you described. And I concur with your thought of further examination of the keel. Internal furniture etc. are one thing, but I would also be concerned about the shock load’s effects on the rig, chainplates etc. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Hi John, I am not convinced that the average offshore boat buyer need be so pessimistic and precautionary about keel to joint integrity. For those boats being considered for offshore use (for ex., Malo, Hylas, Rival, Valiant, J Boats etc.), I would think that a good survey, boat history (no evidence of groundings), general consideration of the quality of boat construction (including details on the keel to hull joint, caulking, bedding etc.) and the history of sister ships would reveal a lot and make it likely that the keel would stay attached during her sailing life. I think for most boats nowadays (including those mentioned above), all bets are off for untoward events like groundings. That said, I think there is a good long way to go ensuring that new builds are better done in this area and in inspecting those that have been around awhile. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Hi Dick, I agree with your conclusions. However I have some interesting information, several fg yachts with fin keel in Scandinavia are built so strong that they can tolerate to hit a stone with the keel in good speed. The ones I have sailed are X Yachts of Denmark, Arcona Yachts of Sweden and Baltic Yachts of Finland. The keel construction of this three are all different, but looks very strong and stiff. You can find the drawings on the net. They all sail well. I like to sail in uncharted waters and then you must be prepared to meet this problem every year. Then it is not so difficult, but most fin keeled fg boats are not built to handle this difficulty.

Hi Svein, Thanks for the info. When sailing your part of the world, I saw those boats pretty regularly and thought they looked fast and well built, like J boats from the US, but had no other contact with them. I was unaware they were robust enough to tolerate hitting a rock at cruising speed unscathed. My best, Dick

I have just bought my *third* steel boat – so there you go, you do know of at least one person who has bought more than one!

One of these is coming up to 100 years old and has not had a spot of rust on the undersides in the last 15 years – though to be fair, she sits in freshwater.

The game changer for steel is proper grit blasting and professionally applied two part epoxy paints. Done properly, it lasts for decades.

Steel is a nightmare if not maintained and if poor quality preparations / coatings are used. A pure DIY life of grinding and painting rust is indeed a mugs game. With proper blasting and painting however, you have an extremely strong, durable and low maintenance system.

My latest steel boat is 30 years old and the paint failed about five years ago so there is some remedial work. With that done and a visit to a Dutch yard for an SAE3 blast and glass flake epoxy paint job (when I can afford it!) – I expect it to go another thirty years. How many fiberglass boats can confidently expect to last 60 years?

Hi Richard well said. Here in USA/Canada people are afraid of steel boat..European are not and they have made plenty still traveling the globe. We should not forget “attainable” in the adventure cruising. I’m talking of used boats of course as I made it clear that all professional yards have turned to aluminum and I’m fine with this.

People look after non metallic boat as a magic bullet for secure world traveling but there are all sort of dangers awaiting: rocks, corals, UFOs, containers, fire, and the most dreadful and invisible… the 1 million cycle of flexing in the ocean after a few years. Attainable cars still have their coil-springs and chassis made of steel. Every polyester boat owner have experienced the need tighten up the rig after a rough passage…

I would have no problem of buying another steelboat if mine one day would be lost. You are right that with proper preparation steel in marine conditions can go many decades – just look at the oil rigs they are built for 40 years up.

Thanks for the informated post!

Just to be pedantic, what I wrote was:

I know a lot of people who own a steel boat, or have done so in the past, but I have never met anyone who has owned a second steel boat.

As I suspected would happen, we have had a bunch of comments from steel boat owners defending the material and extolling steel’s virtues. These comments make many good points. The most important being that steel when properly coated can have a long and useful life.

That said, I do need to make clear that none of this alters the basic fact that steel is a fundamentally unstable materiel, or as one commentator said “rust never sleeps”.

As I said in the article steel can work for those with the knowledge, time and dedication to care for it properly.

“If you built the boat yourself, or supervised every step of the build, and then cared for her yourself, it can work. Just look at the amazing voyages made by AAC contributor Trevor Robertson in Iron Bark.”

And there is no question that a buyer can often get a lot of boat for a good price in steel. But for most of us steel boats, and particularly old steel boats, are not the best option. Nothing I have heard changes that.

As a steel boat owner I understand why people have their reservations. The way in which an old steel boat can crumble before your eyes is disheartening and if that kills your confidence in it then that is that. And as another person mentioned, the fear of old steel boats does seem more prevalent in North America than elsewhere; there may be good reasons for this.

Personally I’d love a good aluminium hull, but all the ones I could access in Australia were well out of my budget. And many of the fibreglass ones came with other problems, osmosis, cracks, delamination, water logged cores and so on. Or they were really heavy old designs that sailed like slugs.

Plus I really wanted rigidity, as an engineer this attribute seemed fundamental to me, so in the end I went with steel despite knowing full well that rust never sleeps. And truly modern coating systems really are remarkable and quite surface tolerant. They’re designed for aggressive industrial applications where ideal surface preparation isn’t possible or economic.

If I could build new it would be a steel hull with no horizontal stringers, stainless deck, integral tanks, total bilge access and a full noise Jotun or International paint system. Thirty year life easy.

Still I don’t feel any pressing need to defend steel; it’s not as good as aluminium and it will never be as popular as fibreglass. Besides there aren’t that many really good steel hulls out there and those of us who like them wouldn’t want to see them become too much in demand 🙂

A good analysis, thank you. I agree particularly about the stiffness advantage of steel.

And, even though I’m an aluminium fan, I would not say it’s simply better than steel, just better for most usage profiles. That said, steel is easier to weld and more abrasion resistant than aluminium.

Hi I would love to meet and talk hulls, but that would ruin your “I never met” a second steel boat owner. I am on my second steel boat. I have owned steel, fiberglass and wood boats in my sailing life. My first steel boat was an Ebbtide 36, built like a brick shithouse as they say, in the UK. As a newbie to cruising, I read Jimmy Cornell’s “Ocean Cruising Survey” where most long term cruising boat owners preferred metal. I sailed it hard across the Atlantic and Pacific and points in between (over 35k passage miles in 5 years). I even had the opportunity of living through an experience of driving it ashore in a strong wind. My (now ex) wife fell asleep on her watch and let us drive it directly into a rocky shore of an island in the Caribbean at about 7 knots. The boat was eventually hauled off and the dents in the hull needed to be repainted. No leaks, no lost keel, and after, no rust. My current steel boat is a Folkes 42. I had the electrical system completely rebuilt after my purchase. On a trip from WA state mainland to the San Juan islands, we had a voltage regulator (brand new, just installed Balmar regulator) fail, start on fire and allow two batteries to explode before the fire suppression system blew the fire out. We had to abandon ship into our dinghy. The boat did not sink, but was totaled per our insurance company. After many months negotiating with Balmar they finally admitted fault and paid for a complete rebuild of our boat. As we gutted the interior to bare steel we got a chance to check for interior rust and found none. Now (three years later) we are back on the water sailing again. With modern coatings and a minimum of maintenance chasing after any scratches a properly built steel boat offers an inexpensive (relative to the other metal choice-aluminum) safe and strong boat. I think the boat has to be properly built originally (professionally) and then properly coated inside and out. One other advantage of steel is that it can be repaired anywhere in the world. Charley s/v Hongvi

As I am still considering buying some (used) steel boat in a couple of years time this tells me one important lesson – access to the inside of the hull must be able _everywhere_, at least good enough for proper inspection using some fiberoptic or the like. Even (and especially) below tanks, or similar built-in structures. It is quite easily possible to blast and recoat the outside, and doubtful areas on the outside can be easily spotted. But it must absolutely be possible to routinely inspect the complete hull area from the inside as well, without too much ado. If (heaven forbid) there would be some blasting and recoating necessary it is still a chore removing parts of the internal structures, but you need to be able to detect it first.

And the story about your exploding batteries makes me shiver. What had you done if your boat was from plastics?

There would be a different ending to the story.

Yes, I think that’s the key: inspect every square inch of the inside of the boat. The trouble is I’m pretty sure that’s a lot harder than many people will have you believe. But it must be done since I understand from people that know that steel boats die from the inside out, so re-coating outside does not solve much.

Very good advice John, all boat need total inspection capability. Unprotected steel can rust, aluminum should be kept free of any standing water (wood is terrible in contact with bare alu) that can attack the oxyde and start up a crevice corrosion.

On any metal boat the bilges should be dry all the time.

Aluminum corrosion protection is not a simple science…if only aluminum could be alone but the problem start when attached to another metal or with itself sometime.

On the periodic table of element Aluminum is a much more active element (less stable) than iron. But neither are used on a boat, it is rather in alloy: Alu 5083 is an alloy, Steel is an alloy and the same for 304 and 316 stainless. All have their corrosion issues and can be attacked with the proper conditions/oxidant.

I have read on Collin post that his Alubat seacocks are in plastic…what are yours John on MC ? Mine are stainless steel and for the plastic speed and depth transducer i have built a safety chamber over it. I would NEVER leave a plastic seacock alone (without side impact protection or safety chamber) on a metal hull.

I think we are starting to go in circles here since I have coved all of this on aluminium and sea cocks in other articles and comments.

As I have written before, I have never had problems with aluminium from standing water or contact with wood, and I have owned an aluminium boat for nearly 30 years.

As to dry bilges, simply not practical once the water temp gets below about 8C, due to condensation. The result is that our boat’s bilges have been wet for most of her sailing life and still we have no significant corrosion problems.

As for plastic seacocks, the good ones are very good, and I would choose them over any other material if building a boat from scratch. Nor would I worry about a safety chamber, as long as they were properly installed. And, as a general rule I don’t like stainless steel below the waterline.

Hi Charles,

Wow, if I had been through the same two experiences I would be living on a farm…in Saskatchewan!

One thing I do need to clarify. Generally a Steel boat is only less expensive that aluminium is both boats are painted. Leave the aluminium boat bare, except for the underwater surfaces, and I’m pretty sure the equation reverses.

Hi John, I also have had 2 steel yachts. The first had no corrosion issues as it had only paint on a rather bare internal fitout. Surprisingly, in Sydney Australia it had almost no condensation due to adequate ventilation. It was 6 t, and 20 years old. The second yacht had a full internal fitout but the hull was done in corten steel which only ever showed minor surface rust. However the mild steel frames in the anchor locker were rusted out to half their original size. It was 20 t , and 28 years old. It should be noted that Lloyds would not let me build in Corten due to its brittleness in subzero temperatures. If I were looking to buy another yacht I would look for another steel one with these provisos. 1/ a good design. Backyard builders don`t pay for a high quality design 2/ The price has to allow for a total strip out, sandblast and paint ,and refit, rewire etc. 3 If the insulation is sprayed on foam then walk away. According to the US Navy their paint systems are good for 25 years. My third yacht was an alloy 55 ft 1969 racer. At 14 t it always felt fragile and it`s motion too lively. In asking what alloy they used I could not say, but probably not the modern 5083 and not the old duralium.

Hi William,

That’s interesting about corten, thank you. Just spent an interesting 10 minutes reading about corten. I had heard of it, but really did not know much about it. Always more to learn.

And a good point about design. I never understand why anyone would cut corners on that vital step.

Lloyds is out to lunch. Old Corten A was brittle (which is why USS sold Corten B) but modern A588/A606 has excellent cold notch toughness for an HSLA and is significantly better than A36.

A588 is sold primarily for bridgemaking and is an excellent structural material in most conditions.

To be fair to your mild steel frames: they almost certainly sacrificed themselves to the corten, which is more noble than mild steel.

Hi, what about plywood builds? Would you consider them an option? What would your conditions be, what would you survey? My first reaction when I read your specifications for your next boat was “that’s a RM1200!”. I’m not stating that they are perfect: they definetly have some drawbacks, and I wouldn’t be able to assess if one is a safe buy. But their twin keels are well-designed (just as the twin rudders of the Boréals, maybe!), and make for boats that are quite good upwind, despite being roomy, light, and of moderate draft.

Depends what you mean by “plywood”. If we are talking about cold molded with epoxy, then yes, certainly an option. And yes, I agree RM1200 is a really interesting boat. Thank for pointing her out.

Just to clarify, the Boréals have single rudders, and two dagger boards aft.

Ouch, plywood without epoxy? I don’t even want to know about this!

Sorry for the mistake regarding Boreal: I meant “aft daggerboards” and not “rudders”, of course. The point being that, as far as I know, the RM were the first twinkeel boats on which the keels are properly angled, so as to reduce leeway when sailing upwind.

I was pretty sure you knew that, but just had to clarify.

Fun facts, back in the day some quite good boats were made with “tortured plywood” in much the same way as metal boats with chines are made. I think this was one: https://www.sail-world.com/Australia/Ragtime-Revisited/-28564?source=google

Also, I have a very faint memory that there were some early IOR race boats with toed in boards to help with pointing. We also experimented with auto jibing centreboards in the 505 class, with the same idea. As I remember, it was a trade off because drag goes up as we angle the board—you point higher but go slower.

Thanks for the information! I didn’t know about tortured plywood.

I see on the internet that the best trade-off for an auto-jibing 505 centerboard is around 2.5-2.8°. And something I didn’t suspect: if the daggerboard is well-made, slightly lifting it brings it back to the centreline! Which would be ideal downwind. The keel angle on RMs and similar designs is less than that (around 2.0°?), but keels have to be kept in place when not sailing upwind! In my experience, the advantage of this is not that you could point higher, but that, for the same angle between the wind and your route, the hull can point a little further from the wind, yielding 1) a better hull shape through the sea (there is another saying about sharp edges: when the sharp edge opens the way, it works better!) and 2) a little more distance between the two sails, which seems to help, too. I know it may sound like I’m overmaking this, and 2 degrees may not seem that important, but the difference is quite visible, especially with 15kts of wind and a flat sea (it becomes all the more visible if you heel too much, but that’s not advisable anyway).

Yup, the 505 boards in my time were made so they only jibed when all the way down.

As to the exact mechanism of how jibing boards works, way beyond my pay grade, but if the 505 fleet are still using them clearly they do work since the boat has always attracted some of the best minds in sailing.

Tortured Plywood? A Kamanu catamaran built with the Hughes Cylinder Mold process has been in daily commercial service in the rough Hawaiian waters for THIRTY YEARS. That is perhaps equivalent to 100 years use for the average full time cruising yacht.

Fairly recently an entire half hull of a 70′ CM catamaran was built in the Philippines in a single day using the process. It is a full curvature hull shape, not a chine boat like Rags.

A few years ago I met the skipper of a 55′ CM cat built 20 years ago for Lake Tahoe. It sits outside in the snow every winter and carries passengers every summer. The best story over beers was about the time a jet ski hit it at full throttle and ended up inside of the hull. Sailed it to the dock, pulled the jet ski out, scarfed in a new hull section, and went back to work carrying tourists.

Tortured plywood, a phrase you won’t hear anywhere but AAC!

Thought all you metal heads would like to know that a new process for refining wood has been developed in the lab. All the lignin is chemically removed, and then the remaining fiber massively compressed. The resulting material is stronger than steel on a weight basis. May never be a boat building material, but who knows!

Hi John, As a metal head, my perfect hull material is SAF 2205 ( DUPLEX ) stainless steel. It has a yield strength 3 times that of mild steel and excellent corrosion resistance, as well as great fatigue resistance. See sv tanielle Thanks Jordan Bettis for the update on Corten

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• About The Boat
• Boat Review Forum
• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Bruce Roberts 43 Steel Hull

• Add to quote

Hello. We’re actively searching for a boat to sail the carribean for the post ‘18 hurrican season. Nov 18-June 19. 2 adults 2 teenagers. In our search came across a steel hull 80’s Bruce Roberts 43’. We have been looking at plastic boats all this time and really have no idea on what’s good/bad about steel hulls and/or this particular design. Any feedback would be appreciated.  

Sean, Way too much to answer in a simple thread. And there has been way too much discussion about the topic already. Steel hulls MAY be great or horrible. Just like any other material. Bruce Roberts designs can be great or horrible (just saw a boat attributed to him that clearly had serious issues.) Probably the best thing to do is post what you know about THIS boat and folks can comment on the specifics. BTW we have 2 mid 80s Steel boats.  

IM HAVING A DEVIL OF A TIME RESPONDING. EDITOR IS NOT WORKING RIGHT. See quote below. The comment about the area under the tanks not being easily inspected is troubling. Otherwise the boat sounds great. But I personally have had bad corrosion underneath a fuel tank. I had to cut the fuel tank out from under the cockpit and was not able to replace it. It all worked out fine but was a LOT of labor. I have next to zero trust in ultrasound. The problem being that it only gives spot measurements. A bad rust spot can be 1 inch from the measurement and you would never know. Frankly this looks a very nice boat, but requires some serious consideration of the potential risk. You need to look at it hard. The bilges below these tanks are not easily accessible but should be protected with coatings as in other areas. The anchor/chain locker has been recently inspected and epoxied/painted. A piece of the deck under the windlass was replaced. We have an industrial grade ultrasound thickness gauge to check the steel externally where we can not get at it from the inside. This is a good indicator of the integrity of the steel when it can not be inspected easily from the inside.  

Bruce Roberts sold (sells) designs to mostly backyard amateur builders, some of whom had questionable skills. Any opinion of a specific Roberts boat bears no relation to any other Roberts boat.  

boatpoker said: Any opinion of a specific Roberts boat bears no relation to any other Roberts boat. Click to expand...

Post the link, if there is one, to this boat. Most Bruce Robert boats are home built. Not saying that that is good or bad, just be aware of it. If you do decide to purchase this boat have it surveyed.  

I assume that this is the Bruce Roberts Mauritius 43. The Mauritious was a popular design. As other have said, the build quality of these boats varies wildly from boat to boat since the majority of these boats were constructed by amateurs. In looking at a lot of amateur built boats over the years, I can tell you that they are very hard to survey because even a gifted amateur might get something like the woodworking right, and totally miss it on the electrical systems or rigging. In terms of the Mauritius itself, these boats were built in different materials. I have encountered them in fiberglass, cold molded wood, and steel. The hulls and decks have been produced by a number of different companies in fiberglass and sold as partially completed boats. In fiberglass or wood, these were decent sailing boats. They are not very fast and do not sail well in lighter winds, but they have made a number of notable voyages. In wood and glass they are a little lightly ballasted, and tend to be tender since the ballast is a low density ballast (typically lead shot or steel boiler punchings in either polyester resin or concrete) carried pretty high in the boat. The problem is greatly exaggerated in the steel boats since the steel boats are much heavier than the glass or wood boats and so the ballast ratios tend to be much lower and the drag higher. It makes the steel Mauritius a very pretty poor choice for areas with a lot of wind, or not much wind. In heavy winds a steely will need to be reefed sooner, and you will end up motoring more in light to moderate winds. But the other issue is a nearly 40 year old steel boat. Back in the 1980's I worked for a yacht designer who had a specialty in steel boats. He was about as knowledgeable about steel as anyone around at the time. His customers tended to use high quality yards to build their boats and Charlie would specify the state of the art rust protection processes of the era. And even with that level of care, it was thought that these boats maybe had a 30 year lifespan before they would need major plating work. The issue is that steel boats rust out from the interior and in places that are inaccessible. They rust out in those small crevices between the steel plating and the framing. They rust out in areas where there are small breeches in the rust proofing. They rust out where some corner of an interior furnishing touches the skin, and erodes the coating and holds water against the steel. I have been aboard some of the boats built to designs that I worked on, and 25 years out they have had a lot of work, or need a lot of work. So while this boat may be perfectly well maintained and may have had every necessary repair made, buying a steel boat that old is akin to playing Russian Roulette with a lot of rounds in the chamber. Respectfully, Jeff  

Jeff_H said: I assume that this is the Bruce Roberts Mauritius 43. The Mauritious was a popular design. As other have said, the build quality of these boats varies wildly from boat to boat since the majority of these boats were constructed by amateurs. In looking at a lot of amateur built boats over the years, I can tell you that they are very hard to survey because even a gifted amateur might get something like the woodworking right, and totally miss it on the electrical systems or rigging. In terms of the Mauritius itself, these boats were built in different materials. I have encountered them in fiberglass, cold molded wood, and steel. The hulls and decks have been produced by a number of different companies in fiberglass and sold as partially completed boats. In fiberglass or wood, these were decent sailing boats. They are not very fast and do not sail well in lighter winds, but they have made a number of notable voyages. In wood and glass they are a little lightly ballasted, and tend to be tender since the ballast is a low density ballast (typically lead shot or steel boiler punchings in either polyester resin or concrete) carried pretty high in the boat. The problem is greatly exaggerated in the steel boats since the steel boats are much heavier than the glass or wood boats and so the ballast ratios tend to be much lower and the drag higher. It makes the steel Mauritius a very pretty poor choice for areas with a lot of wind, or not much wind. In heavy winds a steely will need to be reefed sooner, and you will end up motoring more in light to moderate winds. But the other issue is a nearly 40 year old steel boat. Back in the 1980's I worked for a yacht designer who had a specialty in steel boats. He was about as knowledgeable about steel as anyone around at the time. His customers tended to use high quality yards to build their boats and Charlie would specify the state of the art rust protection processes of the era. And even with that level of care, it was thought that these boats maybe had a 30 year lifespan before they would need major plating work. The issue is that steel boats rust out from the interior and in places that are inaccessible. They rust out in those small crevices between the steel plating and the framing. They rust out in areas where there are small breeches in the rust proofing. They rust out where some corner of an interior furnishing touches the skin, and erodes the coating and holds water against the steel. I have been aboard some of the boats built to designs that I worked on, and 25 years out they have had a lot of work, or need a lot of work. So while this boat may be perfectly well maintained and may have had every necessary repair made, buying a steel boat that old is akin to playing Russian Roulette with a lot of rounds in the chamber. Respectfully, Jeff Click to expand...

Let me counterbalance my own arguments against home built boats. After more than 4800 surveys (409 powerboat models, 350 sailboat models) I have been seriously impressed by the build quality, weld quality, materials and systems installation of only three boats. All three were over 48', metal, two trawlers and one schooner ...... All three were home built. You have to be careful but you never know, maybe you'll stumble into one of these three gems. Curiously each of these three were built by Croatian gentlemen.  

People tend to think about boats in much the same way they think about cars when in actual fact boats have more similarity with houses. No-one even thinks about who actually built a house because it's irrelevant - they look at how each one was built, perhaps through the eyes of an inspector but there is no "brand" to a house or concerns if it was built by a pro or an amateur. Like Poker, some of the best boats I've seen were home brew - a handful were better than any pro built boat I've ever seen. Every boat has to be taken on its own merits.  

I cruised for some years on an old steel boat. Here are some thoughts. It is my understanding that steel boats when they start to rust through do so progressively and that the progression is slow. I was around for a year when someone tried to repair then stripped out everything of value when he realised he had a colander . It was 18 months before he gave up . So have big bilge pumps. There is always someone with a welding set and any bodger can do an external patch. Any competent welder can cut out rusted metal weld in new and make a repair that is as strong as the original build. I am currently cruising on a GRP boat and I am much less adventurous about my reef running.compared to the days of my Ryton 38 and it's 1/4 inch Corten steel hull.  

Any locals know if Clancy sold that Bruce Roberts (47'?) in Victoria.? Finished empty hull. New perkins in a crate. Looked like a solid project for 20 grand. Was on Craigs but coudn't refind it. (hint, Slicing your face off with a zip blade on angle grinder can take the enthusiasm out of any enthusiasm )  

Here is one with a new Perkins Bruce Roberts Spray sailboat for sale in Ohio Don't know if its sold yet. Then again for a few dollars more you can get one ready to go: https://wilmington.craigslist.org/boa/d/bruce-roberts-pilothouse/6392119598.html  

There was a 60ish foot aluminum ketch on sale for years. Finally went when it was reduced to about $100k. It was a hard hull with new unused sails and working motor. Professionally built by a well known yard, just can’t recall at he moment. It was a hell of a lot of boat for the money.  

Topper Hermanson I think.  

colin58 said: I was reading your comment with interest I am an old sailor that has had many boats, steel, wooden, GRP and Aluminium, the greatest boat I have ever owned is my Mauritius 43, have ridden out a cyclone on the way back from the islands to NZ, I have had her for 10 years and she has never missed a beat, the only work I have done on her is I altered the rudder to get rid of some of the weather helm when she is overpowered. She is not as fast as a Farr 11.6 (which I have also owned and rate it as the worst boat for cruising ever, and Farr is a Kiwi so saying that feels wrong). I have a well-built boat that has great rust protection and trust her to hell and back, which after all is what you want in a boat. She will get me 8.5 knts and cruises easily at 6.5knts, not the fastest boat but she will get me there. There have been over 2000 Mauritius/Norfolk 43 built and to my knowledge, some better then others but on the whole they keep on going. Oh and I sail in Wellington NZ where the wind is fierce and have taken this fabulous boat down to the Auckland Islands, where a lot of modern boats would struggle to survive. Click to expand...

On one steel tug I captained, when I wanted a shower underway, I'd go down to the engine room (it was mostly below the waterline) in my swim suit and take my shower under the water entering through the many pinhole leaks at the waterline. Of course, being a commercial vessel, she had plenty of pumps, and crew was always aboard 24/7 to maintain them, and even bail or call for help, should it be necessary. I don't think many would like to live that way in their home on the water. The biggest problem with home built boats of any kind is that they appear price friendly to those on a limited budget. This then leads to a boat being maintained by those on a limited budget and with limited knowledge of how to properly maintain that boat. So, after 30 years or so of possibly unintended neglect, but not necessarily aesthetic neglect, what seems like a great deal, isn't. As stated above, just about anywhere one can find a good welder, but it is necessary to remove the interior where one is welding to prevent the interior wood from catching fire. Over my career I've seen dozens of steel boats sitting in the back of boat yards, with their interiors scattered under the boat and gaping holes in the hull, where the owner ran out of money to continue repairs and simply walked away from the boat. One of my favorite designs, a Virginia Reel by Philip Rhodes and built by Burger (they were steel) was advertised as a boat free for the taking, but I just didn't have the money to restore her. Sadly, she went to scrap. I could have cried.  

• ?            
• 176.4K members

Top Contributors this Month

Sailboat Hulls: Steel vs. Fiberglass – Choosing the Perfect Material for Your Sailing Adventure

Are you planning to embark on an exciting sailing journey? One of the most critical decisions you’ll face is choosing the right material for your sailboat hull.

Steel and fiberglass are two popular options that offer distinct characteristics, and each has its own devoted followers. In this article, we’ll delve into the pros and cons of sailboat hulls made of steel and fiberglass , as well as examine their price and cost considerations .

But before we dive into the details, let us ask you a question: Do you know what could happen to your boat if you choose the wrong material for the hull? The answer might shock you. Read on to find out.

Key Takeaways

• Steel sailboat hulls are stronger, more durable, and more impact-resistant than fiberglass hulls. They are also easier to repair and modify. However, they are heavier, slower, more prone to rust and corrosion, and require more maintenance than fiberglass hulls.
• Fiberglass sailboat hulls are lighter, faster, and more corrosion-resistant than steel hulls. They are also cheaper, easier to mass-produce, and require less maintenance than steel hulls. However, they are weaker, less durable, and more difficult to repair and modify than steel hulls.
• The choice between steel and fiberglass sailboat hulls depends on your sailing preferences, budget, and personal taste. There is no right or wrong answer, only trade-offs that you have to weigh carefully.

Steel Hulls: Strength and Durability

A sailboat with a steel hull evokes an image of ruggedness and reliability. Steel is renowned for its exceptional strength, making it an ideal choice for those seeking a sturdy vessel. Steel hulls provide excellent resistance to impact , which is especially crucial when sailing in potentially hazardous waters or encountering floating debris. Furthermore, steel is highly durable, capable of withstanding harsh weather conditions and prolonged exposure to the elements.

However, it’s important to consider a few drawbacks associated with steel hulls. One major concern is corrosion . Without proper maintenance, steel hulls can be susceptible to rust, which can compromise the structural integrity of the boat. Regular inspection and diligent upkeep are essential to prevent corrosion issues. Also, steel hulls tend to be heavier compared to their fiberglass counterparts, which can impact speed and maneuverability.

Fiberglass Hulls: Lightweight and Low Maintenance

Fiberglass has revolutionized the sailboat industry with its versatility and numerous advantages. One significant benefit of fiberglass hulls is their lightweight construction . This characteristic contributes to enhanced speed and maneuverability, allowing for a more exhilarating sailing experience. The lighter weight also results in improved fuel efficiency, which can be advantageous for long-distance voyages.

Moreover, fiberglass is known for its low maintenance requirements. Unlike steel, it is impervious to rust and corrosion. Fiberglass hulls do not require regular painting or anti-fouling treatments , saving you both time and money in the long run. However, it’s essential to note that fiberglass hulls can be prone to cracks and damage from impacts, although repairs are typically easier and less costly compared to steel hulls.

Cost Considerations: Steel vs. Fiberglass

When it comes to the cost of sailboat hulls, both steel and fiberglass options have their own pricing dynamics. Steel hulls tend to be more expensive initially, as the material itself is pricier and requires specialized labor for construction. Additionally, regular maintenance costs, such as anti-corrosion treatments, can further increase the overall expenses associated with steel hulls.

On the other hand, fiberglass hulls are generally more affordable , particularly when considering the long-term costs. Fiberglass construction techniques have advanced significantly, making the material more accessible and cost-effective. Moreover, the low maintenance requirements of fiberglass hulls result in fewer ongoing expenses, saving you money in the long run.

To give you some concrete numbers, here are some examples of the cost differences between steel and fiberglass sailboat hulls:

• According to Sail Magazine , a 40-foot steel sailboat can cost around $200,000 to build, while a similar-sized fiberglass sailboat can cost around $100,000 to build.
• According to GoDownsize , a 40-foot steel sailboat can lose around 10% of its value after 10 years, while a similar-sized fiberglass sailboat can lose around 20% of its value after 10 years.

As you can see, the initial cost of a steel hull is much higher than that of a fiberglass hull, but the maintenance cost of a steel hull is also much higher than that of a fiberglass hull. The resale value of a steel hull is slightly higher than that of a fiberglass hull, but not enough to offset the initial and maintenance costs.

Therefore, if you are looking for a low-cost option that will save you money in the long run, a fiberglass hull might be a better choice for you. However, if you are willing to pay more upfront and invest more in maintenance for a stronger and more durable hull, a steel hull might be a better choice for you.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: can steel hulls be as fast as fiberglass hulls.

A: While steel hulls are typically heavier, advanced design and engineering techniques can optimize the performance of a steel-hulled sailboat. However, in general, fiberglass hulls are lighter and offer better speed and maneuverability.

Q: Are fiberglass hulls more prone to damage than steel hulls?

A: Fiberglass hulls can be prone to cracks and impact damage, but repairs are generally easier and less expensive compared to steel hulls. Regular inspections and proper maintenance can help mitigate potential issues.

Q: What is the average lifespan of steel and fiberglass hulls?

A: With proper maintenance, both steel and fiberglass hulls can last for decades. Steel hulls are renowned for their durability and can withstand a lifetime of use, while fiberglass hulls can remain structurally sound for 20 to 40 years or more.

Q: What are the other popular materials for sailboat hulls?

A: Apart from steel and fiberglass, aluminum is another common material used for sailboat hulls. Aluminum hulls offer a good balance of strength, weight, and corrosion resistance. However, they can be more expensive than both steel and fiberglass options.

For more informative articles on sailing and related topics, feel free to explore our all-posts section . If you’re curious about sail costs or need tips on what to wear while sailing in cold weather, we have you covered with our comprehensive guides: how much does a sail cost? and what to wear sailing in cold weather .

Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or just starting your sailing journey, understanding the differences between steel and fiberglass hulls is crucial in making an informed decision. Consider your specific sailing needs, budget, and maintenance preferences before selecting the perfect sailboat hull material for your next adventure.

Related Articles:

• Sailing Terms for Beginners
• What is the Difference Between Sailing and Yachting?
• How to Choose a Liveaboard Marina
• Sailing from the US to Europe: A Transatlantic Adventure

Author’s Note: As a passionate sailor myself, I have had the privilege of sailing on both steel and fiberglass hull sailboats. Each material has its own unique charm and practicality. So, whether you choose a steel or fiberglass hull, the magic of sailing will always captivate your heart and soul. Bon voyage!

Saiful Emon is the founder and editor of Sun Sea Skis , a sailing blog for adventure seekers. He loves sailing, traveling, and sharing his experiences with others. He also writes about fitness, wellness, business, and marketing in his spare time!

Exploring the Benefits of Catamarans: A Look at a Sailboat with Two Hulls

How to get started with sailing: a complete guide for beginners, leave a comment cancel reply.

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Sail Far Live Free

The metal yacht - aluminum & steel sailboat perspectives.

Delightful reading - thanks Ted!

A right riveting read, thanks Ted!

Well said Ted! However the most common screw up on steel boats is assuming spray foam protects the metal. It definitely does not. Sadly, many boats have rusted out from the inside, due to lack of a proper epoxy buildup under the sprayfoam ( such as Foulkes, Fehrs and Amazons) At least 3 coats of epoxy tar is minimum before sprayfoaming.More in the bilge and under the engine. Another option is using origami methods, which eliminate the chines in the ends, and leave no chines visible above the waterline, making the hull in the water indistinguishable from a round bilged boat.It also cuts building time for a hull and deck by up to90%.

Sounds like you've got some experience with metal boats so your insights/comments are appreciated. Thanks!

Funny all these years later I should read this article...I was a young fellow and met a couple of guys in Pickering who had purchased 2 Goderich 35/36's. I befriended the fellow living near the marina in Pickering and helped with various chores on the boat...The second boat was transported elsewhere. There were quite a few evenings spent melting lead and pouring it into the keel. He had the outside zinc coated then painted and it wasn't long before we were floating. I wasn't available when he was rigging and then he was gone.... Loved that boat. Another chap was building sailboats south of the 401 in Trenton. Philip Batten (I think) was his name... 32 foot keel boat very nice. He published a small booklet all about steel boat construction as he saw it. He was an engineer and I believe the boat was of his own design. Only saw one though. That would have been around 78. Bill Hamilton, [email protected]

Fabulous Share! I loved reading this stuff. Sailing is my passion and profession both and almost everyday I have new experience with sailing and lots of new things to learn. But making a boat or yacht is totally new to me. It really seems quite interesting and exciting. Keeps sharing! I love to get new ideas!

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog, top 10 favorite affordable bluewater sailboats, go small and go now 5 pocket cruisers to take you anywhere.

Escape to the Sea: How to get from the Great Lakes to the Caribbean

Better Sailing

Aluminum vs Steel Boat: Which Is Better?

As far as metals for constructing boats and sailboats go, steel and aluminum (or aluminium) are very popular. Both metal workers and boaters regularly argue about which of the two metals is better for the construction of boats. There are many advantages to both steel and aluminum boats. In this article, we enumerate the advantages and disadvantages of types. Also, we directly compare them to each other, elaborating on different ways in which one material is superior to the other. 

Advantages of Aluminum Boats 

• Aluminum boats are rather fast. This is brought about by their weight. Also, they have a high fuel efficiency, thereby helping the user save money. Aluminum boats are known to have a relatively high resale value.
• The hulls of aluminum boats do not corrode easily. Apart from electrolysis, the hull of an aluminum boat is not very prone to corrosion.

Disadvantages of Aluminum Boats 

• The weight of aluminum boats, although meritious, can also be a demerit in a few other areas. Aluminum boats sacrifice comfort at the expense of lightness and speed. This light nature results in a “bumpy,” uncomfortable ride. Also, there tends to be a lot of noise emanating from splashes and water hitting aluminum vessels. Simply put, aluminum boats are not suited for comfort. 
• Another problem with aluminum paints is electrolysis. It is a process that is caused by the passing of direct electric current through an electrolyte, creating chemical creations at the electrodes and also triggering the decomposition of materials. In this case, the electrolyte is the water. Simple happenings such as metallic falling and making contact with the bilge of an aluminum boat can result in this problem over time. 
• Furthermore, concerning corrosion, aluminum boats can react negatively to anti-fouling paint. This is because copper is contained in anti-fouling paint, and it corrodes aluminum. 

Advantages of Steel Boats

Are steel hull boats any good? First of all, steel boats have great abrasion resistance. They do the job of maintaining their original look very well, especially on the hull (which is the main part of the ship, after all). This is due to the sheer ruggedness of steel and its ability to withstand external pressure. 

• Steel boats are likely to survive heavy impact without taking too much damage. The metal is used in many other areas of construction because of its strength. 
• Steel boats are comfortable. Their relatively heavy weight makes them more stable at sea; therefore, cruises and rides with steel boats are generally peaceful. There is less noise because the water is hitting the boat less. 
• Because steel is a very common metal, it is relatively easy to find steelworkers. This means that finding a place to repair your steel boat would be easy. Also, still being common implies that it is easy to find a workforce if you are looking into going into the construction of steel boats. 

Disadvantages of Steel Boats

• Steel boats are rather slow. Like fiberglass boat users, steel boat users also sacrifice speed for some level of peace and comfort when riding. 
• Steel is generally heavy; hence, welding it can be rather difficult.

Comparison Between Steel Boats and Aluminum Boats 

By looking at a few points, we have explicitly compared steel boats to aluminum boats. 

Weight and Density

Aluminum weighs less than steel. Aluminum’s density is 168 pounds per cubic foot, while that of steel is 490 pounds per cubic foot. The average aluminum boat weighs about 30% less than a steel hull of the same strength. 

Aluminum is more expensive than steel. Of course, the forces of demand and supply regularly affect the price of both materials. Regardless of this, aluminum is still generally more expensive. 

Availability of Material

As mentioned among the advantages of steel, the metal is used in various areas of construction. Therefore, it is very much easier to find. In areas outside hot spots such as the North American and European continent, finding enough aluminum for a marine construction project as simple as a boat could be difficult. 

Since aluminum is not as strong and heavy as steel, welding it is relatively easier. Regardless of how strong aluminum is, even plate aluminum, it is not as strong as steel is. Usually, welding aluminum takes half the effort it takes to weld steel. This also helps to save time. 

More so, it is important to note that welding equipment for aluminum is quite expensive in comparison to steel. Aluminum welding requires gas-shielded equipment, while steel welding requires stick/electrode equipment. The former is less common and more expensive. Also, if aluminum welding is not carried indoors, the wind is likely to interfere with the gas shield, and this can result in faulty welds. Having an enclosed space specifically for the welding of aluminum may not agree very well with the pockets of many welders and small-time marine construction professionals. 

Welding aside, it is generally easier to work on aluminum. The alloy is soft; hence, it is easy to bend. Equipment is as simple as the ones used for woodwork can be used to manipulate aluminum to the required shape and size. On the contrary, steel needs specialized, heavy equipment to work. 

Scrap and Resale Value

Scrap Monster says that one pound of steel scrap goes for about 270 USD while a pound of aluminum scrap costs 1100 USD. The difference is undeniably large. So, if your boat has outlived its lifespan and you want to sell it as scrap, you would get a lot more money if it is an aluminum boat. 

Furthermore, the resale value of aluminum is also higher than that of steel. If you resell your aluminum boat, you are likely to get back a large amount of the original cost back. This is partly because aluminum is a rarer and more expensive material. 

Abrasion/Corrosion Resistance

Steel boats have a higher abrasion resistance than their aluminum counterparts. For boats that are likely to be at sea for a long time, it is expedient to use steel in their construction. Harsh, hard impact that can cause abrasion cannot be withstood by any other material better than steel. Of course, aluminum can take a hit; it is strong to an extent. Steel, however, is very much stronger. 

You may want to note that although steel is more resistant to forces of abrasion, aluminum is more resistant to rust. 

One of the demerits of aluminum boats, as mentioned above is that it is not well suited for comfort. Aluminum’s lightness is advantageous in many areas but not here. If you want a yacht that is suited for optimal comfort and relaxation, and you are stuck between steel and aluminum, it is better to go for steel in most cases.

Superstructures

For most steel boats that require superstructures, these superstructures are usually made of other materials such as aluminum and wood. Due to its sheer size, strength, and weight, if steel is used for all the superstructures, it may be difficult to keep the center of gravity at a low, safe level. 

Flammability

It is quite possible for aluminum to melt and burn. Its melting point is at 1,080 F. Steel, on the other hand, has a melting point of about 2,600 F. Now, if the heat is intense enough, aluminum can actually burn. Although the alloy is less likely to burn than other marine construction materials (fiberglass and wood), it is not as fire-resistant as steel is. 

Steel is less likely to corrode than aluminum (due to its abrasion resistance). Nevertheless, there are bacteria that could speed up the corrosion process in steel, eating through a large part of it in a short time. Measures can be taken against this, but it is one edge that aluminum has over steel. 

Electrolysis

Electrolysis is more likely to occur in aluminum than it is in steel boats. This is still due to steel’s sheer abrasion resistance. 

>>Also Read: Pros and Cons of Steel Sailboats

Aluminum vs Steel Boat – Conclusion

Choosing a better boat always comes down to functionality. Hulls made from both steel and aluminum have their pros and cons. Picking a material for your boat, depends heavily on what you plan to use it for.  Long cruises and voyages are better carried out with steel boats rather than aluminum boats. In the same way aluminum boats are better for you if speed is your goal. 

Most marine construction workers, however, prefer to work on aluminum boats because aluminum is an easier material to work with and on. Also, most boaters prefer aluminum boats due to the fact that when compared to steel boats, they have more advantages.  Therefore, aluminum boats are generally preferred to steel boats . Nonetheless, functionality is a very important factor. 

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

Related Posts

The Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Best Fishing Line for Trolling

Lagoon Catamaran Review: Are Lagoon Catamarans Good?

Best Inboard Boat Engine Brands

Are O’Day Sailboats Good? A Closer Look at a Classic Brand

• Buyer's Guide
• Destinations
• Maintenance
• Sailing Info

Hit enter to search or ESC to close.

• BOAT OF THE YEAR
• Newsletters
• Sailboat Reviews
• Boating Safety
• Sails and Rigging
• Maintenance
• Sailing Totem
• Sailor & Galley
• Living Aboard
• Destinations
• Gear & Electronics
• Charter Resources
• Ultimate Boating Giveaway

10 Best Used Cruising Sailboats

• By John Kretschmer
• Updated: May 24, 2024

The appeal of offshore voyaging is difficult to explain to land people who can’t imagine life without basic human rights like copious quantities of hot water and unlimited data. It can even be challenging to explain to fellow sailors who think the notion of spending days or weeks at sea is a form of water­boarding, some kind of self-inflicted torture.

But for those of us who understand, who relish intimacy with the untamed wilderness that is the ocean and embrace self-­reliance and individual expression while accepting the ­dispassionate whims of Neptune, this is the good life.

There are two essential truths about this life: One, money does not matter. Cruising budgets and lifestyles reflect bank accounts with variously positioned commas; it’s the passages and landfalls that add up, not your investment portfolio. And two, a good bluewater sailboat — not necessarily an expensive boat, but a well-­designed, solidly built, imminently seaworthy boat that is only limited by your moxie and imagination — is the key to successful bluewater passagemaking.

– LEARN THE NAVIGATION RULES – Know the “Rules of the Road” that govern all boat traffic. Be courteous and never assume other boaters can see you. Safety Tip Provided by the U.S. Coast Guard

So, to that second point, I’ve compiled a list of interesting and affordable cruising sailboats for serious voyaging. A list of 10 sailboats for any purpose, much less world cruising, is sure to evoke outrage from strong-minded sailors, who by nature tend to be a bit opinionated. Stand by before hurling insults my way, and let me explain. I have decided to stay away from the sailboats we know by heart, the iconic old boats that usually populate a list like this: the Westsail 32, Tayana 37, Shannon 38 and Valiant 40 (the last of which, with a bit of searching, can still be found at or just below $100,000).

My list of some of the best liveaboard sailboats is eclectic and includes a mix of well-known and obscure manufacturers, but all the boats are linked in three ways: All are top-quality vessels capable of crossing oceans. They’re affordable, although in a few cases you have to look for older models in less-than-stellar condition to stay below $100,000. Indeed, in some ways, this list of used sailboats is a function of age; most of the boats were priced at more than $100,000 when new but have dipped below our self-imposed threshold in middle age. And finally, they’re all boats that I have encountered in the past few years in far-flung cruising destinations .

Island Packet 35

Love them or loathe them, Island Packets are everywhere. To some, the beamy, full-keel, high-freeboard hull designs seem quaint, to put it charitably. To others, the robust construction standards, roomy interiors and overall user-friendliness make them the ideal cruising boat. More than most, sailing vessels are compromises, and Bob Johnson and his crew at Island Packet were brilliant in prioritizing the needs of sailors. The IP 35 was introduced in 1988 and features a huge cockpit, an easy-to-handle cutter rig with a jib boom, and a clever, comfortable interior with the volume of many 40-footers. It might not be the fastest boat upwind, but the long waterline translates to good performance off the breeze, meaning the IP 35 finds its stride in the trade winds. In all, 188 boats were built before production stopped in 1994.

Don’t confuse the IP 35 with the IP 350, which was launched in 1997 and included a stern swim step. You won’t find a 350 for less than $100,000, but you will have a choice among 35s, especially those built before 1990. With two nice staterooms, the 35 is ideal for family cruising. I know of a couple of 35s that have completed the classic Atlantic Circle passage. It’s perfect for a sabbatical cruise because it holds its value and there’s a ready market when it comes time to sell.

Prout Snowgoose 37

There’s no room for discussion: Catamarans are crossing oceans, and many sailors are choosing cats for world cruising. My last visits to the Azores and Canary Islands, the classic Atlantic waypoints, proved the point. I’m not much of a statistician, but by my count, at least a quarter and maybe a third of the boats I saw were catamarans. There would be more on this list, but they are just too expensive. Finding a quality catamaran for less than $100,000 is tough. One boat to consider is the classic workhorse multihull, the Prout Snowgoose 37.

When the Snowgoose 37 was launched in 1983, English builder Prout & Sons had already been in business for nearly 50 years. The 37 was an updated version of the Snowgoose 35, one of the most successful cruising cats ever. In 1986, the 37 was updated again; the Snowgoose Elite model included more beam and interior upgrades. These models are challenging to find for under $100,000, but it’s possible. A quick glance at yachtworld.com shows several of both models available for less than $100,000. Again, the strong dollar makes European boats an excellent value.

The Snowgoose 37 is not sexy like go-fast cats, and not roomy like modern cruising cats. It is, however, seaworthy. Of the 500 built, many have circumnavigated. Older boats have solid fiberglass hulls, and more recent models are solid glass from the waterline down and cored above. The cockpit is rather compact by catamaran standards, and the bridgedeck is solid (no tramp). Many 37s and all Elites were rigged with staysails, a big plus in heavy weather. The masthead-­rigged Snowgoose 37 can be sailed like a monohull offshore, and it’s quite nice not having a huge, roachy mainsail to wrestle with in a storm. With a 15-foot-3-inch beam for the 37 and a 16-foot-3-inch beam for the Elite, it’s easy to find affordable dockage and yards for haulouts. Most boats have three double cabins, making the Snowgoose 37 an ideal family cruiser.

The Corbin 39 is not as well known as it should be. It’s a capable bluewater sailboat cruiser with many impressive voyages logged. My Quetzal spent several weeks moored alongside a handsome 39 in Corfu that had sailed around the world, and I also spent a winter in Malta in the same boatyard as another 39 that had recently crossed the Atlantic. A canoe-stern, flush-deck pilothouse cutter, the 39 was offered with either an aft or center cockpit. Designed by Michael Dufour and constructed by Corbin les Bateaux in Canada, hull number one was launched in 1977. Built in various locations in Quebec, 129 boats were launched before a fire destroyed the deck tooling in 1982. A new deck with a larger cockpit was designed, and 70 more boats were laid up before production ceased in 1990.

The rub on the Corbin 39 is that the majority of boats were sold as kits with owner-­finished interiors. Kits varied from just hull-and-deck to “sailaway,” with everything fitted except the interior. Only 15 boats were finished at the factory. Not surprisingly, the interior quality is unpredictable, from rough-hewn lumberyard specials to beautifully handcrafted gems finished by marine professionals. The difference is reflected in the price. A nicely finished, well-equipped model from the mid-’80s typically sells for between $60,000 and $80,000.

The hull shape features a long fin keel and skeg-mounted rudder. The hulls are heavily laid up and include Airex coring. Early decks were plywood-cored, but most boats have Airex in the deck as well. Ballast is 9,000 pounds of internal lead, translating to a 40 percent ballast-to-displacement ratio. The wide flush deck is spacious, and the sleek pilothouse usually includes inside steering. Massive double anchor rollers are incorporated into the bowsprit in later models. Most boats include a double-­spreader spar, and almost all were set up as cutters. There’s plenty of freeboard, which becomes obvious below. While interior arrangements vary considerably, there’s a lot of room to work with. I prefer the post-1982 aft-cockpit 39s; they’re generally of a higher quality than earlier boats.

– CARRY A BEACON – Satellite beacons such as EPIRBs or PLBs allow boaters to transmit distress signals and their exact coordinates from anywhere on the planet, no cell service required. It may be the best $400 you ever spend. Safety Tip Provided by the U.S. Coast Guard

Cabo Rico 38

“The Cabo Rico 38 hull shape is the one in which everything came together best,” wrote Bill Crealock in his design notes. He might have changed his mind later in life, considering that the Cabo Rico was introduced in 1977 and he designed many boats after that, but few will dispute that this 38-foot cutter, built in Costa Rica, is flat-out beautiful. From the clipper bow to the sweet sheer to the abundance of honey-colored teak, the Cabo Rico 38 is a boat to inspire the most practical among us to quit their job, buy this vessel, and head for the South Pacific.

Not surprisingly, many people have done just that. Cabo Rico built 200 full-keeled 38s, with most of the production occurring in the 1980s. There’s always a selection of boats for sale for less than $100,000. Cabo Rico was an outlier among manufacturers of the time, building serious cruising boats in Central America instead of Taiwan, but quality control was always excellent. The full keel is slightly cutaway, and the rudder is attached to the trailing edge. The prop is in an aperture and totally protected, but not well suited to backing into a slip. Full-keel boats may make some younger sailors cringe, but the CR 38 has a very soft ride in rough seas and heaves to effectively. It also has a solid fiberglass hull with a layer of balsa for insulation. Sometimes it’s noted that the hull is balsa-cored, but it’s not. After about hull number 40, lead was used instead of iron for internal ballast. The deck is balsa-cored, however, and there’s a substantial bulwark. Items to be wary of are the teak decks (most 38s have them) and the fittings supporting the bobstay.

A true cutter rig, the 38 has just under 1,000 square feet of working sail area and performs better than most people suspect. The staysail was originally set on a boom that cluttered the foredeck and limited sail shape. Many boats have been converted with furling staysails sans the boom — a nice upgrade. When the wind pipes up, the 38 tracks nicely with a reefed main and staysail. I encounter 38s all over the Caribbean. They’re easy to spot; they’re the beautiful boats in the anchorage.

Tayana Vancouver 42

Ta Yang, builder of Tayana sailboats, has been building capable cruising boats forever, it seems. The Robert Harris-designed Tayana Vancouver 42 has been a mainstay of the serious cruising fleet since the day it was launched in 1979, and is still in demand today. The company built 200 boats, mostly in the ’80s and early ’90s, although a few V42s were built into the 2000s. With a bit of digging and some haggling, you can find boats for less than $100,000, but they’re likely to be older models. As of this writing, yachtworld.com has eight V42s listed, with three asking less than $100,000.

I’ve encountered the V42 all over the world, and in my yacht-delivery days, I had the pleasure of delivering a couple of 42s up the East Coast and down to the Caribbean. The double-ended hull shape with a fin-skeg underbody is stiff and seaworthy, if not wickedly fast. Considering the rugged construction, with a solid fiberglass hull and balsa-cored deck, nobody has ever accused Ta Yang of going light on its boats. Ballast is internal iron, a massive single casting that weighs in at 11,800 pounds. Ta Yang has evolved as a builder, and later models included upgrades like vinylester resin and larger Yanmar diesels.

A true cutter, the V42 has a double-spreader rig and is heavily stayed. The seagoing deck is cambered to shed water. Teak decks, with all their virtues and vices, were common; I’d look for a boat that’s been de-teaked. Like the Corbin 39, the V42 came with either a center or aft cockpit, although most boats were aft-cockpit models. The aft cockpit is deep and secure, if a bit tight due to volume sacrificed by the canoe stern. The center cockpit is cramped but offers excellent visibility. The interior is lovely, with exquisite Taiwanese joinery. Although interior arrangements vary because Ta Yang encouraged owner input, across the board, this is a friendly boat for living aboard. The aft-cockpit model includes one head and a traditional layout with excellent light and ventilation. The center-­cockpit model features a large owner’s stateroom aft.

Wauquiez Pretorien 35

The Pretorien 35 does not pay homage to tradition. The Euro-style low-slung wedge deck and flattish lines were thoroughly modern when the Pretorien was launched in 1979. Sure, there are IOR influences in this well-proven Holman & Pye design, including a slightly pinched stern, cramped cockpit, and a high-aspect, short-boom mainsail that results in a large fore­triangle. But a small main is easy to handle offshore, especially in squally conditions, and a large poled-out furling genoa provides a low-stress way to cross oceans. The test of a design is revealed long after the launch, and the Pretorien has aged brilliantly. It’s often mistaken for a Swan or Baltic. Famed voyager and author Hal Roth chose a Pretorien for his last boat.

Below the water, which is what really matters at sea, the Pretorien pushes the right buttons for serious sailing. A fine entry provides enough of a forefoot to prevent pounding in lumpy conditions, and as on the Valiant 40, the fin keel incorporates a stub to which the external ballast is fastened. The rudder is mounted well aft for excellent steering control, especially on a deep reach, and is tucked behind a narrow but full-length skeg. The Pretorien displaces 13,000 pounds, of which 6,000 pounds is ballast, translating to a stiff, seakindly boat.

The construction is superb. The solid fiberglass hull includes longitudinal stringers that stiffen the panels and encapsulate the bulkheads. Tabbing and fiberglass work is first-rate throughout. Wauquiez was one of the first builders to use solid laminate beneath high-load deck fittings. The side decks are wide and, with the chainplates well inboard, easy to navigate. The interior arrangement is conventional, but ample beam amidships helps create a surprisingly spacious feel below.

There were 212 Pretoriens built during a seven-year production run, so there’s usually a good selection of boats on the used market. Today’s strong dollar makes European Pretoriens an excellent value.

– SHOW THEM HOW MUCH YOU CARE – Nothing says ‘I love you’ like making sure the kids’ life jackets are snugged up and properly buckled. Safety Tip Provided by the U.S. Coast Guard

Gulfstar 44

Gulfstar had a terrible reputation in the early ’70s: It was infamous for producing wide-body motorsailers with tiny rigs and chintzy Formica interiors. Company founder Vince Lazzara was adept at reading market trends and upped his game in the late ’70s and ’80s. Lazzara, who also founded Columbia Yachts, was a veteran of the production-­sailboat wars and realized that buyers were demanding high-quality boats that sailed well. The Gulfstar 44 was launched in 1978, and 105 were sold before the company started producing the Hirsh 45 in 1985.

Some mistake the G44 for a Bristol, and it has a similar profile, right down to the teak toerail and raked cabin trunk. A sleek center-­cockpit design, the hull shape features a 5-foot-6-inch fin keel, a skeg-hung rudder and moderate proportions. I know the boat well, having delivered one from Bermuda to Annapolis and another from Fort Lauderdale to Boston. It has a nice ride in lumpy seas and powers up when the big genoa is drawing on a reach. The construction is typical of the time, with solid fiberglass hulls and cored decks. Gulfstars were known to blister, and it’s likely that any 44 you find will have had an epoxy bottom job along the way — and if it hasn’t, it will need one. The keel-stepped spar has an air draft of 55 feet. Some owners have modified the sloop rig with a staysail. The cockpit is roomy, especially for a center-cockpit design, although there’s not much of a bridgedeck. All sail controls are led aft. Lazzara was an early proponent of this feature, and the boat is user-friendly overall.

The interior sells the boat. It’s nicely finished in teak, and the layout is made for living aboard. The aft cabin includes an enormous double berth with an en suite head and stall shower. The main saloon is spacious and well ventilated, although beware of the plastic opening portlights. If you are looking for a comfortable, well-built center-cockpit cruiser but can’t find one that you can afford, track down a Gulfstar 44; you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

Any list of bluewater cruising sailboats must include a Robert Perry design. I could have easily put together nine Perry boats for this list. The Nordic 40 may surprise some, especially because 40 feet is an iconic length, bringing to mind such boats as the Valiant 40, Hinckley Bermuda 40, Bristol 40, Pacific Seacraft 40, Passport 40 and others. The trick is finding a 40-footer for less than $100,000. Nonetheless, the Nordic 40 and its larger sister ship, the 44, are among my favorite boats.

Based in Bellingham, Washington, Nordic produced world-class yachts during its brief production run in the 1980s. Only 40 Nordic 40s were launched between 1982 and 1987, but they’re worth seeking out on the used-boat market. The 40 features the classic double-ended Perry hull shape, with a fine entry, a deep and powerful fin keel, a skeg-mounted rudder positioned well aft, and a reverse transom. Freeboard is moderate and the sheer line is subtle, but to my eye, with its double-spreader rig and gently sloping deck line, the boat is poetry in the water.

The hull is solid fiberglass and the deck is balsa-cored, with solid laminates below loaded-up deck fittings. Original boats came with Navtec rod rigging and a hydraulic backstay, but many have been upgraded by now. Sail-control lines are led aft to the compact but functional T-shaped cockpit. The traveler is forward of the companionway, allowing for a cockpit dodger. The Nordic 40 is nimble in light to moderate breeze but can also stand up in a blow and heave to decently.

The interior is well suited to a cruising couple. It’s really a two-person boat, with a V-berth forward and large C-shaped galley aft, with plenty of counter space and a huge fridge. It includes the normal deft Perry touches — excellent sea berths, a separate stall shower and generous tankage. If you do find a Nordic 40 on the used market, be sure to take a hard look at the Westerbeke diesel and the V-drive transmission.

Pacific Seacraft 34

A handsome, nimble and capable double-ender by legendary designer Bill Crealock, the Pacific Seacraft 34 is well proven, with scores of ocean crossings in its wake.

After the boat was first launched as the Crealock 34 in 1979, Pacific Seacraft introduced a fifth model years later, a scaled-down version of the popular PS 37. Though expensive at the time, the 34 was another success story for one of America’s premier builders, and hundreds of boats were built in the company’s yard in Santa Ana, California. There is always a good selection of used boats available for less than $100,000. Another nice perk for used-boat buyers is that the 34 is back in production at the reincarnated Pacific Seacraft yard in Washington, North Carolina, providing an outlet for parts and advice. The company is now owned and operated by marine archaeologist Stephen Brodie and his father, Reid.

The 34 blends traditional values above the waterline with what was then a more modern underbody, with a long fin keel and skeg-hung rudder. A bit hefty at 13,500 pounds of displacement, the design otherwise is a study in moderation, and drawn with a keen eye toward providing a soft ride in a seaway and staying on good terms with Neptune in a blow.

The hull is solid fiberglass, and early decks were plywood-­cored before Pacific switched to end-grain balsa. The hull-to-deck joint incorporates a molded bulwark that offers added security when you’re moving about on deck, and a vertical surface for mounting stanchions.

Most 34s are cutter-rigged for versatility but carry moderate-­size genoas instead of high-cut yankees for more horsepower off the wind. Down below, the layout is traditional, but the 6-foot-4-inch headroom is a pleasant surprise. The Pacific Seacraft 34 is perfect for a cruising couple.

John Kretschmer is a delivery captain, adventurer and writer, whose own boat Quetzal , a 1987 Kaufman 47, has seen a refit or two over the years. His latest book is Sailing a Serious Ocean: Sailboats, Storms, Stories and Lessons Learned from 30 Years at Sea , also available on his website .

• More: classic plastic , DIY Sailboat Projects , Sailboat Reviews , Sailboats , used boat guide
• More Sailboats

Pre-Owned: 1988 Hylas 47

Catalina Introduces the 6 Series

Sailboat Preview: Elan GT6 Explorer

For Sale: 1984 Camper & Nicholsons 58

Galápagos: A Paradise Worth the Paperwork

Around Alone

Grease the Wheels of Your Boat: A Guide to Proper Lubrication

A Bowsprit Reborn: A DIY Renovation Story

• Digital Edition
• Customer Service
• Privacy Policy
• Terms of Use
• Email Newsletters
• Cruising World
• Sailing World
• Salt Water Sportsman
• Sport Fishing
• Wakeboarding

Visit our Popular Forums

• Monohull Sailboats
• Multihull Sailboats
• Powered Boats
• General Sailing
• Antares Yachts
• Fountaine Pajot
• Lagoon Catamarans

Cruising Business

• Boat Classifieds
• General Classifieds
• Crew Positions
• Commercial Posts
• Vendor Spotlight

Life Aboard a Boat

• Provisioning: Food & Drink
• Families, Kids, & Pets Afloat
• Recreation, Entertainment, & Fun
• Boat Ownership & Making a Living
• Liveaboard's Forum

Seamanship, Navigation & Boat Handling

• Seamanship & Boat Handling
• Training, Licensing, & Certification
• Health, Safety, & Related Gear
• Rules of the Road, Regulations, & Red Tape

Engineering & Systems

• Const. / Maint. / Refit
• Product / Service Reviews
• Electronics: Comms / AV
• Electrical: Batts / Gen / Solar
• Lithium Power Systems
• Engines & Propulsion
• Propellers & Drive Systems
• Plumbing / Fixtures
• Deck Hdw: Rigging / Sails
• Aux. Equipment & Dinghy
• Anchoring & Mooring

Photo Categories

• Member Galleries
• Life Onboard
• Sailing in the Wind
• Power Boats
• Cruising Destinations
• Maint. & Boat Building
• Marine Life
• Scuba Diving & Divers
• General Photos

Recent Photos

Listing Categories

• African Cats
• view more »
• Crew Wanted
• Crew Available
• Enhance Your Account
• Meet the Mods
• Meet the Advisors
• Signup for The Daily Cruiser Email

> > Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. 27-07-2016, 00:36   a sailboat (40-45 ft) that is really stable and secure for ocean crossings. So far, we only have experience from glass fibre , but we find the strengh and stabilizing weight of attractive. Now to the problem. The yachting community seems totally divided in two opposite groups: Steel HATERS (saying steel owners end up doing nothing but chasing rust) and steel boat LOVERS (saying rust is no major problem and steel is just great!). One scary thing with steel seems to be so called "pin holes" that suddenly appear in the , and can flood the boat. According to the anti-steel people, that is. The steel boat lovers don't seem to see this problem. What on earth should we think? How do we choose and check a steel boat to avoid the problems? I would be grateful for any . Par, a Stockholm, based sailor. 27-07-2016, 00:48   Boat: Vagabond 14 has been using steel boats (ships) for a long time... they can last a long time as evidenced by USS Enterprise operating from appx 1960 to appx 2010 and now its a museum. Even the Arizona which has been sunk since Dec 7 1941 is mostly intact. Maybe 50 years from now they'll have to support the memorial with pilings driven in beside the . Rust is and isn't an issue. You do good and it won't be a problem. You skimp on maintaining the and other and you'll be chasing it forever after just like a 1970 Chevy that's been driven on salted roads. NEVER over a rust spot... clean it to bare shiny metal, apply primer and good quality paint. Longevity of autos is actually good to look at. Those that get cared for never seem to have a rust spot. Those that are not cared for away. 27-07-2016, 00:57   Boat: Cutter-Rigged Moody 54 -- there's no nightmare, as long as you don't treat it like a plastic boat. You have to understand what it takes to maintain it (and there's more to it than painting), and you have to do that . You have to understand galvanic and electrolytic , and take adequate measures to ensure that it doesn't happen. Steel is not as maintenance-free as plastic, but it has other, very significant advantages. It has one big disadvantage in that it is very heavy for smaller boats, so not very good for sailing boats below a certain size (consider for a smaller sailing boat, which does not have this disadvantage). Obviously you also have to be sure you are not acquiring a rust bucket, but a good with competence in metal vessels can figure that out for you. 27-07-2016, 02:36   Boat: Currently Shopping, & Heavily in LUST! . More or less it's an Ultrasound of the hull to determine the thickness of the metal, as well as defects. I'm far from an expert on it, but were I looking at a metal boat, I'd surely do a lot of studying on it. Ditto on about Non-destructive Testing (NDT). And also, various other forms of evaluating metal structures, including weld quality, etc. That, & like said, get up to speed on the different types of . What to do to prevent them, & how to fix them. Also, there are even NDT . Which I learned about over on Where both amateurs & professional builders, designers, & sailors discuss the afore mentioned topics & many others relevant to your quest. I also learned, or rather re-learned a good bit about metal vessels, & caring for them by reading blog. He's a wizened of this community who's owned both steel & boats. And he delineated, in detail, the steps that he took in terms of , & TLC with his steel boat for peace of mind with it. Especially as it was being used down in ice country in the Southern high latitudes. It was a good contrast to what I learned about metal boats, engineering, & ship/boat related science from my time in the US . Where I even supervised much of our ship's over a two year stint with her in the shipyards. Groan. There's a good bit of info here on the on metal boats too, if you dig for it. Preferably with a customized search. Plus there's as well. Which is pretty much what it sounds like. And their forums are back up & running, knock on , er, metal He's a very well regarded , & real easy to with. Who's sharp in the use of most boatbuilding materials. Good luck with your information quest, & enjoy your time on the forums! PS: One thing which may be helpful too, is if you have a short list of criteria that you're looking for in a boat. As it's common for members here to steer folks towards perspective candidate boats, in addition to helping to educate them. The Uncommon Thing, The Hard Thing, The Important Thing (in Life) Making Promises to Yourself, And 27-07-2016, 03:00   Boat: kuiper 32 involved in keeping them good I am always painting ,but if the boat is modern and has had a good coating from new they wont have much wrong with them.what I like with steel is the fact that they are tight as a drum and dont have annoying as other materials may have.Having no keelbolt or chainplate issues is also a good bonus.Rust always gives plenty of warning as well of any problems you get a hell of a lot of rust before you get any holes.Good luck in your search 27-07-2016, 03:06   Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt) 27-07-2016, 03:17   Boat: Cutter-Rigged Moody 54 as other materials may have. Having no keelbolt or chainplate issues is also a good bonus.. . . 27-07-2016, 03:47   Boat: Currently Shopping, & Heavily in LUST! coating from new they wont have much wrong with them.what I like with steel is the fact that they are tight as a drum and dont have annoying leaks as other materials may have.Having no keelbolt or chainplate issues is also a good bonus.Rust always gives plenty of warning as well of any problems you get a hell of a lot of rust before you get any holes.Good luck in your search 27-07-2016, 03:47   Boat: no boat any more , install new , etc., because the whole structure is strong -- you just need to weld whatever you need to it." sorry, definitely NOT true: there'd be (well, hopefully, otherwise it's going to be hell on wheels...) that'll start burnning, paint will be burned off,... the facts as I see them: for ant/arctic adventures unbeatable, same for collisions with floating objects or (although there are any number of steelboats lying on & staying there, as it's simply too expensive or altogether impossible to get a tug to tow them off) all other bonuspoint of steel have to be compared to an aluminium hull - & there steel is the big loser: unless sandblasted on the INSIDE too (& primed within hours!) serious maintenance will have to be done sooner or later, there'll be millions of unreachable places where rust is goign to develop sooner or later. steel is going to be heavier (costlier , rig, , heavier ...), aluminum topsides can be left unpainted! anecdotal evidence but still: 32' french steeler beside us in marina apooiti (Raiatea) filling to level of saloontable in the absence of the owners before discovered...(throughhull defective...) big german steelboat in Whangarei: whenever you were looking/listening they had the going & an anglegrinder was running... Moitessier's Joshua was a writeoff at cabo san lucas... various steelhulls adorning tuamotu-reefs...didn't help them any, that they survived the impact... 27-07-2016, 08:25   Boat: Cutter-Rigged Moody 54 (well, hopefully, otherwise it's going to be hell on wheels...) that'll start burning, paint will be burned off,... . 27-07-2016, 08:54   Boat: Ian Ross design ketch 63' boat you have to ask not how you're going to maintain it, but how the previous owners have maintained it. Bringing a sadly neglected boat back is one and working on a sadly neglected steel boat is another (soul sucking) . If you decide to go ahead with it get it "ping"ed. (Sorry, I can't remember the name of the instrument). Basically it sends a sound through the metal and will tell you with a very simple formula the thickness of the metal. You test it first on a good looking spot and then in dodgy looking areas to see how much metal has corroded away. You can buy one of these ($$$) or hire someone to do it for you. Hopefully the boat you are looking at has been cared for and isn't marginal. I don't recommend marginal. Ask me how I know. 27-07-2016, 08:54   Boat: 35' Sport Cruiser . You don't mention where you plan to sail, but I would assume that even in northern climates the reverse would be true, that a metal hull would be very cold by comparison. The other issue is . In a hot climate with lots of humidity you will have . And not just atmospheric humidity, but that produced in the of the boat as well. So although a tight metal hull may not have leakage from the exterior, don't expect the to be constantly dry. It's true that metal hulls have some inherent advantages, but I've found that, for me at least, the glass hulls are more convenient and allow more time for the pleasure of and less time spent on maintenance. To each his own. Good luck in finding the right boat for you. 27-07-2016, 09:01   walls and even underwater rocks. Steel hulls will puncture easily. Wooden hulls are also flexible but will split easily too. I never thought that I would admit that plastic is best but only from a strength point of view. Wooden boats have souls which no other structure seems to have. If you do get a , remember that the hull will rust from the inside out first, and that rust will also occur at seacocks as opposed to the large flat areas. 27-07-2016, 09:26   Boat: Luger, Southwind, 21 hull with Aluminum decks.! 🤔👍😬😀😏 Still surrounded by anchors. 27-07-2016, 09:28   Boat: KP 46 tugs, ships, and a few yachts. Strong boats most of them. To me, it depends on how you are going to use your boat. If you are like most people and let your boat sit in a marina and sail it occasionally, then you want fiberglass. Steel needs looking after. You buy Ospho by the gallon, and keep a chipping hammer handy. Only takes a few moments to rustbust, ospho, prime and paint. But if you let it go, it looks bad quick, and eventually is bad. If you are a cruiser, it is great because you can find a welder for not much just about anyplace in the world who can fix, or replace on your boat. Hell, look at Moitessier’s boat Joshua. He did a little maintenance and sailed her around the world. The boat was beached in Cabo and buried in the sand, he her for 5 bucks and the guy reflated her and sailed her away. I think she is in La Rochelle now. Like wood, you gotta love a steel boat and take care of her or she will , but if you take care of her she will take you just about anyplace you want to go and get you through. Michael Thread Tools Rate This Thread : Posting Rules post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Philsboat Our Community 13 17-06-2011 17:29 GBCruisers Meets & Greets 5 10-06-2009 15:31 TaoJones Fishing, Recreation & Fun 13 30-12-2008 17:03 Wukong Boat Ownership & Making a Living 25 12-06-2006 07:53 BC Mike Construction, Maintenance & Refit 7 02-01-2005 17:30 - - - - - - - Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time. 120 IMAGES Steel Hull CE Class Cat A Motor Sailor Sailboat Hulls: Steel Vs Fiberglass 29 m Steel Hull Sailing Yacht For Sale / JONGERT 2800S Detailed Walkthrough 36' 7" custom-built steel hull sailboat ... NEW, NEVER USED! Steel hull sailboat plans ~ Plans for boat 40 foot steel hull project sailboat VIDEO WHY I Bought This ABANDONED Steel 50Ft Sailboat Ep.4 1,800lbs Anchor😲#Florida#boating#shorts Electric Hoist THIS Is CDMs LATEST STEEL Explorer Yacht! Abandoned, Partly Finished Steel Yacht in Mangroves Making boat stands (SAILBOAT CRADLE!!) New boat stands for our 42 ft steel hull sailboat Carla COMMENTS Pros and Cons of Steel Sailboats Durability. Steel sailboat hulls are much stronger than fiber or GRP boats. In general, Steel allows stronger structures to be equal in weight. A Steel boat is much more robust, and its structure is more rigid, so a Steel boat will better withstand bumps and rubs. In the event of an impact, the Steel bends while a fiber boat breaks, this as ... Pros and cons of steel sailboats Performance shortcomings in reality are only when compared to a similar boat. The glass or timber boat (vds 34s were made in steel, glass or cold moulded diagonal strip) has less overall weight, same sail area but more weight in the keel itself. The steeler has a heavier hull so can carry less ballast in the keel. Sailboat Hulls: Steel Vs Fiberglass Durability. Sailboats with steel hulls are much more durable and stronger than those with fiberglass hulls. Steel sailboats have a more rigid structure and are quite robust so they can better understand grazes, rubs, and bumps when out in the open water. In case of impact, a steel hull will bend and may become dented; however, a fiberglass hull ... Linssen Yachts Proves That the Steel Pleasure Boat is Alive and Well The process starts with clean, shot-blasted steel plates arriving at the factory gates. The thickness of steel used ranges between 4 and 6 millimeters depending on where it is used and the size of the yacht to which it is destined. Linssen cuts these steel plates to shape using a CNC plasma profiling machine. Avoid Steel Hulls? It is true that cored F.G. hulls may eventually delaminate from the core or the core itself may sheer but in well-built boats this is a very long-term process, but properly maintained glass or cold-molded wooden boat will last for 40- 50 years. The same cannot be said for steel. Bulletproof: Discovering Steeler Yachts' Explorer 50 The hull and superstructure are built up from nearly 2,500 pieces of steel, all carefully welded together. This allows for a multi-chine hull that mirrors the rounded bilge shape of traditional working boats. Her pronounced, exposed stem continues along the hull's bottom as a keel before merging into a skeg, which protects the propellers. Steel Boats Steel sailboat design has come a long way in recent years. Two aspects of the preceding paragraph have come under rigorous review as designers and manufacturers constantly come up with better steel craft. First, the superstructure need not be made of steel. Secondly, in some cases, the framing can be done away with. Steel Sailboats: The Ultimate Guide Steel hull sailboats epitomize the very essence of adventure and exploration. Their unwavering strength, unrivaled versatility, and indomitable spirit unlock a world of possibilities for daring voyagers. These vessels fearlessly navigate treacherous waters, embracing the unknown and guiding you to the most awe-inspiring corners of the Earth. Sailing Cruisers: The Ultimate Comparison of Hull Materials The materials used for hull construction of sailboats are GRP (glass fiber reinforced plastic), carbon, Kevlar, wood, aluminum, steel, ferrocement and also various hybrids of these. Some of these materials are not suitable for use in cruisers due to their specific characteristics. Carbon and Kevlar usually only play a role in extremely ... Seaton Yachts Expedition 83: A Steel Turnkey Experience The steel, Ice-Classed hull itself suggests a focus on rugged durability on voyages where flotsam and jetsam can include everything from whales to semi-submerged steel cargo containers. High bulwarks, covered exterior walkways, and premium, commercial-rated hardware and systems also speak to the expedition nature of her mission. Hull Materials, Which Is Best? A colleague ran his Contessa 34 onto a boulder lee shore, F5, big damage, the boat dragged off and significant repairs; owner of a Sigma 41 ran into a rock and snapped the steel toe of the hull flange from the keel all theta through, as well as significant hull damage, I too rammed a ledge at spring tides at speed and busted GRP stringers etc ... Bruce Roberts 43 Steel Hull 8 posts · Joined 2017. #1 · Dec 3, 2017. Hello. We're actively searching for a boat to sail the carribean for the post '18 hurrican season. Nov 18-June 19. 2 adults 2 teenagers. In our search came across a steel hull 80's Bruce Roberts 43'. We have been looking at plastic boats all this time and really have no idea on what's good ... Steel Steel is a hull material used by many long distance power and sail cruising designs that prize strength. Builders who use aluminum should have knowledge about proper alloy selection, specialized anti-corrosion techniques, and how to isolate the hull from dissimilar metals which may cause corrosion. Steel hulls can be repaired easily using universal techniques. Ask SAIL: Steel vs. Fiberglass Hulls When you see a steel hull that shows no signs of rust, you can be sure that the owner has been exceedingly vigilant in maintaining the boat. If you become the owner, the same vigilance will be required of you. A fiberglass hull can wait months or years for attention, but the unrelenting nature of corrosion will severely punish the slothful ... Sailboat Hulls: Steel vs. Fiberglass A sailboat with a steel hull evokes an image of ruggedness and reliability. Steel is renowned for its exceptional strength, making it an ideal choice for those seeking a sturdy vessel. Steel hulls provide excellent resistance to impact, which is especially crucial when sailing in potentially hazardous waters or encountering floating debris ... COLVIN GAZELLE: A Junk-Rigged Cruising Icon The first Gazelle was conceived as a no-frills light-displacement boat that could function both as a shoal-draft coastal cruiser on Chesapeake Bay, where Colvin was based at the time, and as a bluewater cruiser. She was built of 10-gauge Corten steel (i.e., about 3.4-mm thick), except for the main cabin top, which was marine plywood. Steel Or Aluminum As Choices For Your First Sailboat The main benefit of a steel hull is it's incredibly strong. Steel has the additional drawback of being very susceptible to corrosion and must be painted. ... we are 27 years and are pursuing our biggest dream…sailing around the world. As for steel boat we purchased one as well ( yeah just before we got the aluminum one. It was a disaster, a ... The Metal Yacht Aluminum 5086-H34 44,000 psi 35,000 psi. Aluminum 5456-H321 51,000 psi 42,000 psi. Steel - Grade A 58,000 psi. Steel - Grade AH32 68,000 psi. It is standard practice to increase the scantling of an aluminum part to make up for its lower strength of course but, even so, the aluminum still has a very substantial weight advantage. When you ... Steel Hull Maintenance Posts: 2,103. Boy, I'm not sure where the idea that 4 mm is sufficient for the hull of any boat over 30 feet or so. Delfin is 1/4", or 6.4 mm, and prior to fairing, showed deflection in the bow plates with the ribs on 18" centers. If the steel was Corten, maybe 4 mm would work, but Corten steel has other issues. Aluminum vs Steel Boat: Which Is Better? Most marine construction workers, however, prefer to work on aluminum boats because aluminum is an easier material to work with and on. Also, most boaters prefer aluminum boats due to the fact that when compared to steel boats, they have more advantages. Therefore, aluminum boats are generally preferred to steel boats. 10 Best Used Cruising Sailboats Tayana Vancouver 42. Tayana Vancouver 42 Dave Backus. Ta Yang, builder of Tayana sailboats, has been building capable cruising boats forever, it seems. The Robert Harris-designed Tayana Vancouver 42 has been a mainstay of the serious cruising fleet since the day it was launched in 1979, and is still in demand today. Steel Hull Pros/Cons : r/sailing Stray current can burn through the hull, or cause very quick galvanic corrosion. Steel will wear through plastic insulation quickly if chaffing occurs. Again regular maintenance, and safety is the key. Steel can be magnetized, which will screw with your compass. There are multiple fixes. Steel is safer for lightening strikes. Steel boat Steel boats are not actually like cars -- they are made of heavy plating, not light sheet metal. Like other hull materials, including wood-- there's no nightmare, as long as you don't treat it like a plastic boat.You have to understand what it takes to maintain it (and there's more to it than painting), and you have to do that maintenance.You have to understand galvanic and electrolytic ... catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht