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Rebedding Sailboat Deck Hardware

• By Steve D'Antonio
• Updated: April 16, 2020

Let’s look at the matter of bedding deck hardware from the simplest way ­possible: I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve been dripped on while lying in a berth. Because it’s both ­annoying and completely avoidable, it’s doubly frustrating. Of course, there are plenty of other very ­important reasons for keeping leaks from developing, including maintaining the integrity of the decks through which they pass. Follow these steps to keep the water on the right side of the cabin and decks.

Bedding Compounds

Bedding compound, also referred to as sealant or caulk, serves as a flexible gasket of sorts between deck ­hardware—from cleats, stanchion bases, chainplates and sail tracks to pedestals, pulpits, winches and clutches. The bedding you select should be easy to apply, long-lasting and elastic. Its primary use, when sealing hardware, is as a gap filler, with the aim of preventing water from passing between the hardware and deck/cabin surface. Options include polyurethane, polysulfide and silicone. Each has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Polyurethane is by far the most popular bedding compound, starting decades ago with the introduction of 3M’s now ubiquitous 5200. Originally developed for use with timber hulls, it has all the attributes one could ask for in a sealing formula—and then some. With some ­exceptions, PU sealants are also adhesives, which can make hardware removal a chore and even destructive in some cases. It can be affected by some teak and other cleaners, as well as fuel. Unless otherwise noted, many PU sealants lack UV stability, although that’s less of an issue where the sealant is primarily protected from the sun’s rays by the hardware. If it’s employed in an application where an exposed radius is necessary, make certain the sealant that’s used includes a UV inhibitor.

Polysulfide is an unsung hero among bedding compounds and my personal preference. Unlike PU, it is not an adhesive; its mission is to seal, and it does so very well, filling gaps readily while remaining resilient and flexible for many years, if not decades. It’s also UV-stable and immune to most harsh chemicals and fuel.

For years, silicone has been considered taboo by boatyards, builders and yards, although not because of performance issues. The aversion is due to its side effects. Unlike PU and PS, which can be painted—though it’s not recommended—SI will not accept paint; in fact, it repels it, and therein lies the problem. The slightest SI ­residue contaminating any surface that might ever be painted or varnished will drive coating applicators crazy with “islands” of paint/varnish rejection. These are known as “fish eyes” because of their oblong shape, and they can remain present for years.

In spite of that liability, SI remains a very credible and reliable bedding compound, one that is flexible and long-lasting, and it’s available in several colors too. I have successfully used SI in boatbuilding applications, specifically for aluminum-frame hatch installations, where no other compound could be made to work reliably for the long term. Furthermore, manufacturers of some plastic components (such as access and inspection ports) specifically prohibit the use of PU sealants, leaving PS and SI as the only viable options. If you opt for SI, remember the paint/varnish incompatibility issue, to mask carefully, use rubber gloves and not touch varnished surfaces while ­working with it.

As with paint and varnish ­application, preparation is vitally important where bedding is concerned. In many cases of bedding failures, especially those that occur shortly after installation, they are the result of improper or incomplete preparation (or no prep work whatsoever). Based on tests I’ve conducted, virtually all deck hardware—whether stainless, aluminum or even plastic—is contaminated with waxes or oils, and this includes the fasteners used to secure this hardware.

Here’s why: When boatbuilders and repair pros want to prevent fiberglass resin from adhering to something (like molds or hardware), they apply wax to those surfaces, which acts as an effective release agent. When metallic hardware is finished or polished, it’s often coated (i.e., contaminated) with polishing wax or cutting oil, which has the same effect; this includes factory-fresh components straight out of the box.

If you are skeptical about this, conduct this test: Wet a clean white rag with mineral spirits, and then wipe down a new piece of hardware or fastener, nut or bolt. (For bedding prep, “clean” means the rag has been rinsed in hot water, wrung out and then allowed to dry. Doing so removes contaminants such as detergent residue, surfactants and scents from even new rags.) The gray or black shading that will almost certainly appear on the rag is your residue, and it will hinder the adhesion of any bedding compound, regardless of its chemical composition.

Holes drilled in ­fiberglass and timber substrates, through which fasteners are to be installed to secure hardware, should have their edges chamfered. The recess created by this practice will allow a “reservoir” of sealant to accumulate here, creating an O-ring of sorts, thereby improving sealing ability.

There are plenty of good reasons to prevent leaks from developing, ­including maintaining the integrity of the decks.

Surfaces that are to be bedded must be scrupulously clean and free of all contamination. If remnants of previous bedding or loose paint are present, the surface should be cleaned with a putty knife or gasket scraper. While it’s acceptable to bed over glass-smooth surfaces, slightly profiling the surface with 180-grit sandpaper will provide a “tooth” to which bedding can adhere; this goes for gelcoat, fiberglass, polished stainless steel and aluminum. The surface should be cleaned, and dewaxed/de-oiled, before sanding to avoid grinding contaminants into the surface.

Using clean, pre-rinsed rags, wipe down all hardware, fasteners and surfaces that are to receive bedding with a solvent (I prefer mineral spirits). As rags become discolored, they should be replaced so as to avoid distributing, rather than removing, any contaminants. I eschew the use of harsher chemicals, such as ­denatured alcohol and acetone, as unnecessary overkill; mineral spirits are friendlier to users (you should wear chemical-­resistant rubber gloves and eye protection) and will emulsify and remove oils, waxes and most other contaminants without harming most plastic, paint, varnish or cured caulk—­provided it is not left in contact for an extended period (i.e., never leave a solvent-soaked rag on any painted or varnished surface).

Depending on the location, you may choose to mask the perimeter of the hardware footprint to minimize cleanup; this is particularly true on teak or nonskid.

Installation

Once the surfaces are clean and prepared for application of sealant, make certain you do not touch them with your bare hands (or soiled gloves) because even oil from fingers can contaminate these surfaces.

Sealant should be applied uniformly to the entire hardware surface, not just around fastener penetrations. Don’t skimp. The goal is to achieve what’s known as “squeeze-out,” which is a bead of sealant pressed out from under the hardware as it’s set onto the mounting surface. Fastener shanks, as well as the underside of heads, should also be coated in sealant.

No sealant, however, should be applied to backing plates, washers, nuts, etc. that are installed on the underside of the deck/cabin. The reason for leaving these unsealed is to ensure water is not trapped in the fastener bore holes. If water is trapped here, it can lead to two undesirable side effects: 1. For stainless steel fasteners, it establishes the ideal environment for crevice corrosion. 2. For cored composite structures (nearly every deck and cabin), even when properly closed out (more on this in a moment), standing water in this area only increases the likelihood of penetration into the core. If the weather-deck bedding fails, it’s better that it leak into the cabin—as an alert that it’s time to re-bed—than retain water and cause damage.

Once the hardware is set in place, evenly tighten the fasteners to achieve the aforementioned squeeze-out. Any place where squeeze-out is not achieved is an indication of a void or gap that might exist between the hardware and the bedding surface, a gap into which water can migrate and be retained. Even if this does not lead to a leak, water trapped by stainless steel nearly always leads to unsightly rust-colored “tea staining.”

Fasteners should be fully torqued at this point. The practice of leaving sealant to cure, before fully tightening, is not one to which I subscribe. Sealant, even when fully cured, is not designed to bear the heavy loads imparted by stanchions, cleats and tracks; it’s designed to fill irregularities and small gaps.

Initial removal of bulk sealant squeeze-out can be achieved using a putty knife and then solvent-soaked rags (be ready with a container or bag to dispose of these), one that is approved by the sealant manufacturer. Use of the incorrect solvent can inhibit the sealant from fully curing.

No discussion of hardware installation would be complete without mention of core closeout. In short, no penetration—in a cored composite deck, cabin or hull—should rely on sealant alone to keep water from migrating into the core, where it can wreak untold havoc. Instead, the core must be fully isolated from penetrations by a permanent annulus, and not just a paper-thin coating, but one made using fiberglass resin, or epoxy, and a reinforcing or thickening agent. This approach provides resistance to water penetration, as well as crushing, when through bolts are torqued.

Following these practices should keep hardware secure and the water on the deck, rather than your head.

Steve D’Antonio is a former boatyard manager who travels the world assisting clients with all manner of refits and technical issues ( stevedmarineconsulting.com ). He is also the author of CW ’s Monthly Maintenance column.

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Bulletproof Sailboat Deck Hardware

Rock-solid deck hardware installation begins with a tightly sealed core.

Installing new hardware on a cored deck means sealing the core around every penetration. Skip this step and water will eventually seep between the skins. Balsa will rot, and repeated freezing and thaw cycles can turn foam core to mush and cause delamination.

The typical solution is to drill an oversized hole, fill the cavity with epoxy, and redrill as needed. But this method is not without drawbacks and shortcomings:

• Some people have become sensitized to epoxy, with symptoms ranging from skin irritation to full-on shock.

• Epoxy has limited tolerance for moisture; yes, you should dry the core first, but that doesn’t always happen.

• If you use fast-curing epoxy in warm weather, it can exotherm and boil out.

• If you use slow-curing epoxy, it might not cure overnight.

And then there are practical problems with the traditional method. Working from the top, you must over-drill the hole to get enough room for the epoxy to enter and to allow air to escape. This requires removing more of the top skin, creating a larger scar to disguise should you decide to relocate the gear. Completely filling a hole on a vertical surface requires a bit of magic. And then there’s the nature of the epoxy plug, which can become brittle and crack over time. Unless the plug is fully supported by a backing plate, it can be pushed out of position, again exposing the core to moisture.

TRADITIONAL METHOD

Although epoxy is our “go-to” material, and the traditional method is well proven, we believe there are better ways.

In the traditional method, a hole is drilled through the top skin only, at least as large as the fastener and large enough to admit the core removal tool of your choice. The core is removed by moving a cutter up and down between the core skins and around the circumference of the hole until the core is dust. You need to pay special attention to the insides of the top and bottom skins, because that top-to-bottom bond is what helps maintain strength in the laminated structure.

We like to use a bent roofing nail. It removes chips, produces a deep cavity, and cuts smoothly. After blowing out the chips, the hole is filled with slow cure epoxy (in warm temperatures, fast-cure will exotherm, creating bubbles and a poor seal).

The hole is then re-drilled through both skins to fit the fastener, and the hardware bedded and installed (see “ Trouble Free Deck Hardware Installation ,” PS September 2013).

ADDING GLASS REINFORCEMENT

You can protect against cracking with reinforcing fiberglass. Adding glass fibers is particularly useful when installing or repairing screws or other self-tapping fasteners.

Inject about 50 percent of the epoxy first. This will help wet out the cloth. Using a large cable tie, stiff wire, or similar tool, push 3/4” x 2” strips of 6-ounce fiberglass cloth into the epoxy-saturated hole. You can fit 2-4 strips in the smallest holes and 3-6 strips into larger fastener holes. Only a few strips are needed for crack control, but for future screw holes, cram as many as you can. Don’t use fiberglass mat, roving, or biaxial cloth, these weaves don’t conform to the hole as easily as cloth, and they are harder to wet out. Follow up with more epoxy to fill the space, gently poking the glass to help the air release (see “ A Stronger Screw Hole Repair ,” PS May 2018”).

TECH GUIDE: CORE FILLER SPECIFICATIONS

One wouldn’t naturally think that a fastener hole would be prone to exothem. The volume seems so small. The trouble is that the core insulates the hole, preventing the epoxy from shedding heat. Below 70°F and out of the sun, a fast-cure epoxy like West Systems 105/205 will work for this job. In warmer temperatures, or in the sun, the epoxy will become boiling, and the plug will be more foam than epoxy. Slow hardener (such as West Systems 206) is the standard recommendation, but in cool weather it may not be fully cured until the next day, delaying work.

Toughened epoxies, such as G-Flex, and underwater epoxies do not have the same tendency to exotherm in small holes. They cure more slowly and give off less heat in the process. They also have a reduced tendency to crack. When using the traditional, “core-carve” method for filling screw holes, G-Flex performed well in our bench tests. Field tests are still ongoing. Underwater epoxies are too thick to work with the traditional method, but we have tested them using what we call the inside-core method.

SPECS: BOND STRENGTH

POLYESTER AND VINYLESTER RESINS

Polyester and vinylester shrink during cure, and the secondary bond—the bond an already cured skin—with the outer skins is about 4-6 times weaker for polyester, and 2-4 time weaker for vinylester. This bond is insufficient, especially when compared to the advantages of epoxy.

RIGID POLYURETHANES (GORILLA GLUE, TITEBOND, ETC.)

The main advantage of rigid polyurethane glue is its moisture tolerance. Previously, we learned that a deteriorated deck can be stiffened by injecting adhesives or foam (see “ Can Glue Injection Save a Rotten Core? ” PS July 2020).

We continue to recommend complete core replacement as the best way to rebuild damaged decks (“ Step-by-Step Deck Core Repair ,” PS August 2020, and “ Deck Core Repair from Underneath ,” PS February 2022). However, while exploring the glue-injection method, we found the Original Gorilla Glue performed better than epoxy in some circumstances.

We’ve since become fans of the glue, using it for several small repairs and in situations where tearing the boat apart was either too complex or not warranted. We wondered if Gorilla Glue could do double duty when sealing new holes for fasteners. Could it seal the core against water intrusion and stiffen up a larger area of deck to resist compression loads?

The answer is yes—with limitations. Gorilla glue foams and expands when reacting with water, so you have to use it differently than you would epoxy. The foaming is inherent to this type of glue.

Assuming you’ve carved out the core using the traditional method, you pump or pour the glue slowly into the hole allowing air to bubble out. Within 5 to 10 minutes, the glue will begin to foam and expand.

Don’t let the foaming glue spill back out, force it back into the core by plugging the holes with wooden dowels. This will push the glue into voids. Leave the dowels in place until the glue has finished expanding, but pull them out with a set of pliers before the glue cures (2-4 hours). Later, use epoxy to fill the dowel’s impressions. This method works when stiffening soft spots in dry core.

However, the method did not fare as well during our test with damp core. For that test, we made a plug in a balsa core section that had been soaked in water for two weeks and then allowed to dry for 8 hours. In this case, the foaming was extensive and the resulting plug was porous and weak, much like the core material itself.

With dry balsa, however, the Gorilla Glue plugs had physical properties similar to epoxy plugs, with minimal foaming. As with epoxy, these plugs could also be reinforced with fiberglass.

There are other polyurethanes that foam less with moisture (Titebond III). However, foaming cannot be entirely avoided. For this reason, we’d avoid polyurethane glues for sealing fastener holes in core.

CONCLUSIONS

The traditional method remains our “go to” for routine fastener installations. If we’re going to be installing a large backing plate, the inside core method is faster, easier, and stronger, when the entire process is considered. It is perfect for winches and windlasses. If access is sufficient, we also like this method for repairing leaking fasteners (the old, failed plug is easily removed) and for installing new fasteners in deteriorated decks. We get a good look at the core, the reinforced plug is larger, and the backing plate can be oversized to firm things up.

If you have multiple deck holes to seal, have access to the inside of the holes, and will be installing backing plates, it may be best to tackle the whole job from inside. This method will also work from the outside if you are installing a mounting pad large enough to generously cover the hole you will make in the core. It is handy when placing fasteners through plywood core, since plywood core is difficult to remove with a bent nail.

We do not recommend this method for large through-hull fittings. Too much of the inside skin is removed.

• Drill a ¼-inch hole through from the top side to guide the hole saw. You will redrill to the fastener size later.

• Using a hole saw, drill a ¾-inch (or larger as needed) hole through the inside skin and core, using the initial hole as a guide. Use a depth stop to avoid damaging the top skin.

• Pop out the core and clean out the hole using a bent roofing nail or small chisel. You do not have to carve core from under the edge of the inside skin, just clean the edges of the hole and underside of the top skin.

• Make a backing plate with a ¼-inch center hole (the hole is optional but helpful). Round the corners at least 1-inch radius and taper. Center over the hole and mark the outline with a pencil.

• Fill the hole with thickened epoxy, leaving it slightly proud. Thinly butter the backing plate and the backing plate contact area, which should be marked in pencil.

• You can also reinforce the plug with glass fiber, but don’t try laying in glass cloth, roving, or mat; the thickened epoxy will never wet it out. Instead, just work in a small handful of chopped strands, adding them between layers. You don’t need much fiber to control cracks, so focus on even distribution.

• If the core is damp, let it dry. If this is impractical, consider using Pettit Splash Zone underwater epoxy. It bonds to damp surfaces, will cure underwater, and has suitable strength and hardness.

• Beware the exotherm. Thickened epoxies exotherm slower than straight epoxy, because of the mass added by the filler, but in warm conditions (over 80°F) use a slow hardener. Waterproof epoxies are already slow-cure formulas.

• Press the plate into place, securing with a waxed bolt (can be smaller than 1/4-inch) through the center. Remove this as soon as the epoxy gels. Using the epoxy that squeezes out, form a rounded fillet between the skin and the backing plate.

• After curing, redrill the center hole to fit the fastener.

The larger drilled hole is easier to clean out, the hole is easy to fill with epoxy putty, the plug is larger, better bonded and better supported, and the backing plate is now an integral part of the hull. Yes, you lose a small amount of skin on the inside, but that’s more than made up for by the increased efficiency of a well-bonded backing plate. We think this is a better method for sealing common through-bolts.

Core weakened or damaged by water intrusion—usually due to poor hardware installation practices—is a common problem in older boats. In recent years, we’ve conducted a series of related tests to determine effective repair and prevention methods.

• “Cored Hull Construction, Does High Tech Mean High Quality?” ( PS October 2007 )

• “Boat Clinic: Minor Repair to Cored Decks” ( PS Online March 2011 )

•“Through-bolting Fiberglass: An Inquiry into Failure Modes” ( PS June 2013 )

• “A Stronger Screw Hole Repair” ( PS May 2018 )

• “How Big Does a Backing Plate Need to Be?” ( PS August 2016 )

• ‘Step-by-Step Deck Core Repair” ( PS July 2020 )

• “Can Glue Injection Fix Rotten Core?” ( PS July 2020 )

•“Deck Core Repair, from Underneath” ( PS February 2022 )

Here we compare filler materials used to seal core from water intrusion.

1.Gorilla glue fails to form a solid plug in damp core. The filler is porous and weak, similar to that of a foam core.

2.Dry balsa core sealed with 105/205 Epoxy is rock solid and well bonded.

3.1:1 pre-thickened epoxy was used here with foam core. It is okay to have a few isolated bubbles. The important thing is a good bond at the top and bottom.

4.General purpose two-part epoxy forms a tight bond in this photo of an epoxy plug in balsa.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

_An Allen Wrench to Remove Core_ When I installed my fittings on Prestissimo, a 42′ sloop, I drilled a hole sized for the bolt, down to, but not through, the interior skin. Then I used a Allen wrench, with the short end sharpened like a knife, and the long end in a drill, to chop up the foam core. I vacuumed out the foam pieces, and used a squeeze bottle with an aluminum tube sticking out of the nozzle to fill the void with epoxy from the bottom up. After drilling out the holes I installed the fittings, bedded the backing plates in epoxy, and tightened the bolts which were sprayed with mold release. Finally the fittings and bolts were removed, the holes were cleaned (if necessary), and everything was reinstalled with a generous coating of BoatLife under the fitting and all around the bolt. She has been sailing for 18 years and not a single fitting has leaked!

My preference for holes and fillets is milled glass fibers. In the jar/tub, it’s like lint. After it sets in epoxy you can beat on it with a 3# hammer for a long time before it starts to crack.

It stiffens the epoxy well enough that it can often be used vertically without sagging.

I thought we had put the ‘bent nail’ issue to bed decades ago. There are so many useful Dremel attachments out there, anything else is a crime against efficiency and pride in your work. Dremel 115, 196 or 199, Countersink, and bed with Butyl tape (isobutylene-isoprene, not mastic).

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Lifting system for inflatable boats (RIB) made of a three-point lifting sling with rigging plate, additional bridle for fourth attachment point, and two 18” diameter loop straps. Aluminum rigging plate spreads the load evenly and creates one attachment point for quick connecting. Adjustable up to 11’-6” (inside leg) and 8’-6” (outside legs). Additional bridle with 27” legs, 1-3/4” ring, and stainless quick release snap shackles for creating the fourth attachment point. 18” diameter straps used to connect to objects without attachment points. Safe working load for system is 500 pounds (227 Kg). Made in Italy.

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Reach out with your question, and one of our staff members will get back to you shortly. Or, if you require immediate assistance, give us a call at 805-900-7282 during normal operating hours.

FEATURED CLASS

The 16′ skiff is a distinctly Australian high-performance dinghy, renowned for its three-person crew and impressive sailing capabilities. With a storied history spanning over a century, the class has evolved significantly over the years. Modern 16′ skiffs are equipped with two crew members on trapeze and feature large masthead asymmetrical spinnakers, enhancing their speed and agility. In Australia, the 16′ skiff is one of the most popular sailing boats, with active fleets in New South Wales and Queensland. There are currently over 80 boats registered across nine clubs, and regattas often see impressive turnouts of up to 45 boats. Many 16′ skiff clubs boast excellent facilities and are dedicated to supporting sailing across various smaller dinghy classes.

To contain costs and to provide closer racing, strict one design rules were introduced in 1997/98 for hull design and construction. A design by former skiff sailor, Craig Hughes, was accepted as being the most progressive and suitable to take the Class forward.  The design rules also fixed the number of masts and sails which could be registered for the Australian Championship Series. Only two masts can be used and the number of sails is limited to three jibs, two main sails and two spinnakers. Boats utilise these sails in combinations to give different rig sizes which can be selected for optimal performance in different wind strengths.

16ft skiff specifications:

Hull Length: 4.88 m (16 ft)

Minimum Beam: 1520 mm

Maximum Beam: 1780 mm

Maximum Sail Area (Working): 22 m²

Sail Area (Spinnaker): Approx. 45 m²

Minimum Crew: 3

Pacific Sailboat Supply Gift Card

Set sail into adventure with the perfect gift for any sailing enthusiast! Our Pacific Sailboat Supply Gift Card is your gateway to a world of premium marine gear and accessories. Our website specializes in high-performance sailing and racing gear, featuring a curated selection of less than 10% of the brands we offer. With access to over 300 top-tier brands, we’re dedicated to meeting all your maritime needs. If you’re looking for something specific that’s not listed on our site, we’re more than happy to assist with custom orders at no extra service fee. Your sailing success is our priority!

From top-tier hardware and rigging to navigation tools and safety equipment, we have access to it all. With our high standard for customer service, someone is always available to help support your needs. Plus, our easy-to-use online store makes shopping a breeze, ensuring your gift is both practical and appreciated.

Give the gift of adventure, reliability, and maritime excellence with the Pacific Sailboat Supply Gift Card. It’s the ideal choice for birthdays, holidays, or any special event for the sailor in your life!

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Boom Furlers

The Best of Both Worlds!

Available in -17, and -25

Jib Furlers

Available for 20′ to 90′ Boats

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Home › DECK & EXTERIOR HARDWARE › DECK HARDWARE

DECK & EXTERIOR HARDWARE

Hatches, Biminis, Dodgers... basically anything on the outside of the boat.

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Lewmar locking winch handle- 10”, merriman 1” track car spring stop, 6” aluminum marinium cleat, bronze cheek block 1 3/8” sheave- 1/4” line, schaefer 31’ boom vang - 7/16” line, harken 2 1/4” single swivel block - 3/8” line, 71” long stainless steel folding 5 step boarding ladder, dorade vent cover off nauticat 33, spinlock double rope clutch - 3/8” line, headsail pre feeder, chromed bronze angled flag pole holder - 1 1/4”, 1” stainless steel spring top spinnaker ring car - 1 1/4” eye, stainless pull top track car for 1” track with 1 5/8” aluminum sheave 5/16” line, large stainless steel boom bail- 4 3/4” width- 1/2” bolt, bronze merriman 3/8” toggle.

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Standard orders placed from now  until 3PM Friday 23rd August will be dispatched, but   will not be delivered until after the Bank Holiday (Click HERE for more information).

Port Solent Store / Click & Collect - Open as usual throughout the weekend and bank holiday Monday See opening times HERE

Standard orders placed from now  until 3PM Friday 23rd August will be dispatched, but   will not be delivered until after the Bank Holiday (Click HERE for more information). Port Solent store and click & collect open as usual

Deck Hardware

Deck out your deck with everything you could ever need to ensure the smooth running of your boat. At Marine Super Store we’ve got all the marine deck hardware for your needs, from  hinges  and  hooks  to  clutches ,  catches  and  cleats  and everything in between.

As one of the UK’s best known chandleries we’re confident you won’t find a better selection of marine deck hardware at such competitive prices. Take a look through the range below and shop online with confidence.

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Lewmar Evo Self Tailing Winches

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Treadmaster Non Slip Matting Sheets 1200mm x 900mm

Spinlock EA Tiller Extension

Lewmar One Touch Winch Handles

Lewmar Joystick Single Control Upgrade

Barton Series 3 (45mm) Blocks

Spinlock XTS Rope Clutch

Holt Laser L1 Radial 3.8oz Sail Folded No Battens

Holt Laser L1 Replica Radial Lower Mast

Barton Genoa Car 32mm

Treadmaster Non Slip Matting Pads

Holt Laser L1 Standard 3.8oz Mk2 Sail Folded No Battens

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Lewmar Joystick Dual Control Upgrade

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YS Cleat Spring Toe Rail Mount

Selden Fairlead Double

Spinlock stanchion lead block WL/1

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Carbine Budget Hook with Eye – Stainless Steel

Lewmar Standard Winches

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Monel Seizing Wire 10m

D Shackle Stainless Steel

Holt Laser L1 Replica Boom With Ball Blocks

Selden PBB60 Blocks

Barton 4:1 purchase kit inc cleats on traveller

Holt Laser L1 Centreboard

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